Fire and Sword in the Sudan. A personal narrative of fighting and serving the Dervishes. 1879-1895 ... Translated by Major F. R. Wingate ... Illustrated by R. T. Kelly

Front matter

-j^ai^^^^^SsBhg^B \\\\\\\w.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ FIRE AND SWORD IN THE SUDAN. FIRE AND SWORD IN THE SUDAN A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF FIGHTING AND SERVING THE DERVISHES. 1879-I895. BY RUDOLF C. SLATIN PASHA, C.B. COLONEL IN THE EGYPTIAN ARMY (INTELLIGENCE DEPT.) ; FORMERLY GOVERNOR AND COMMANDANT OF THE TROOPS IN DARFUR, TRANSLATED BY MAJOR F. R. WINGATE, C.B., D.S.O., R.A. Director of Military Intelligence, Egyptian A rmy ; AUTHOR OF "MAHDISM AND THE EGYPTIAN SUDAN," "TEN YEARS' CAPTIVITY IN THE MAHDI'S CAMP," ETC. ILLUSTRATED BY R. TALBOT KELLY, R.B.A. EDWARD ARNOLD. LONDON: NEW YORK: 70, Fifth Avenue. 37, Bedford Street. 1896. Copyright, 1895, By Edward Arnold. Sattiirottg John Wilson and Son, Cambridge, U. S. A. TO f^K jUtast (gracious fHajcstg THE QUEEN OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND AND EMPRESS OF INDIA WHO HAS EVER SHOWN DEEP SOLICITUDE FOR AND GRACIOUS SYMPATHY WITH THE EUROPEAN PRISONERS IN THE SUDAN THIS RECORD OF HIS LIFE IN CAPTIVITY IS BY PERMISSION HUMBLY DEDICATED BY HER MAJESTY'S MOST DEVOTED AND GRATEFUL RUDOLF C. SLATIN

Preface

. "DROMPTED by the earnest entreaties of my friends rather than by any wish of my own to relate my experiences, I have written these chapters. The few months which have elapsed since my escape have been so much occupied in resuming my official duties, compiling reports, and satisfying the kindly interest displayed by a large number of people in my strange fate, that any attempt at quiet and steady literary work has been almost impossible. During my captivity I was unable to make any notes or keep any diaries ; in writing, therefore, the following pages, I have been dependent en tirely on my memory, whilst the whirl of the busy European world and the constant interruptions to which I have alluded, have given me little time to collect my scattered thoughts. When, therefore, after having been debarred for so many years from intercourse with outside affairs, and entirely out of practice in writing down my

PREFACE.

. ideas, I find myself urged to lose no time in pub lishing an account of my adventures, I must beg my readers to excuse the many defects they may notice. My experiences have no pretence to being of any literary or scientific value, and the personal episodes I have described can lay claim to little importance ; I have merely attempted to give to those interested in Sudan affairs a true and faithful account of my life whilst fighting and serving the Mahdists. Rudolf Slatin. London, October, 1895. INTRODUCTORY NOTE BY FATHER DON JOSEPH OHRWALDER, LATE PRIEST OF THE AUSTRIAN MISSION STATION AT DELEN, IN KORDOFAN, AND FOR TEN YEARS A CAPTIVE IN THE MAHDI'S CAMP. '"PHE joy at meeting my dear friend and former -*~ comrade in captivity, Slatin Pasha, in Cairo, after his miraculous escape, was indeed great ; and it is with extreme gratification that I comply with the wishes of those friends who are interested in his experiences, to preface them with a few remarks.

To have been a fellow-sufferer with him for many years, during which the closest friendship existed between us, — a friendship which, owing to the circumstances of our captivity, was necessarily of a surreptitious nature, but which, interrupted as it was, mutually helped to alleviate our sad lot, — is I think a sufficiently good reason for my friends to urge that I should comply with their wishes. Apart, however, from these purely personal motives, I need only refer to the fact that the small scraps of information which from time to time reached the outside world regarding Slatin Pasha, excited the deepest sympathy for his sad fate ; what wonder, then, that there should have been a genuine outburst of rejoicing when he at length escaped X INTRODUCTORY NOTE. from the clutches of the tyrannical Khalifa, and emerged safely from the dark Sudan ?

It is most natural that all those interested in the weal and woe of Africa should await with deep interest all that Slatin Pasha can tell them of affairs in the former Egyptian Sudan, which only a few short years ago was considered the starting point for the civilisation of the Dark Continent, and which now, fallen, alas ! under the despotic rule of a barbarous tyrant, forms the chief imped iment to the civilising influences so vigorously at work in all other parts of Africa. Slatin Pasha pleads with perfect justice that, deprived all these years of intellectual intercourse, he cannot do justice to the subject ; nevertheless, I consider that it is his bounden duty to describe without delay his strange experiences, and I do not doubt that — whatever literary defects there may be in his work — the story of his life cannot fail to be both of interest and of value in helping those concerned in the future of this vast country to realise accurately its present situation.

It should be remembered that Slatin Pasha held high posts in the Sudan, he has travelled through out the length and breadth of the country and — a perfect master of the language — he has had opportunities which few others have had to accurately describe affairs such as they were in the last days of the Egyptian Administration ; whilst his experiences during his cruel captivity place him in a perfectly unique position as the highest au thority on the rise, progress, and wane of that great religious movement which wrenched the country INTRODUCTORY NOTE. XI from its conquerors, and dragged it back into an almost indescribable condition of religious and moral decadence. Thrown into contact with the principal leaders of the revolt, unwillingly forced to appear and live as one of them, he has been in the position of following in the closest manner every step taken by the Mahdi and his successor, the Khalifa, in the administration of their newly founded empire.

Sad fate, it is true, threw me also into the swirl of this great movement; but I was merely a captive missionary, whose very existence was almost for gotten by the rulers of the country, whilst Slatin Pasha was in the vortex itself of this mighty whirl pool which swamped one by one the Egyptian garrisons, and spread far and wide over the entire Sudan. If, therefore, there should be any discrepancies between the account published some three years ago of my captivity and the present work, the reader may safely accept Slatin Pasha's conclusions as more correct and accurate than my own ; the opinions I expressed of the Khalifa's motives and intentions, and of the principal events which occurred, are rather those of an outsider when com pared to the intimate knowledge which Slatin Pasha was enabled to acquire, by reason of his position in continuous and close proximity to Abdullahi.

In concluding, therefore, these remarks, I will add an earnest hope that this book will arouse a deep and wide-spread interest in the fate of the unhappy Sudan, and will help those concerned to come to a right and just decision as to the steps which should INTRODUCTORY NOTE. XII be taken to restore to civilisation this once happy and prosperous country. That the return of Slatin Pasha from, so to speak, a living grave should bring about this restor ation, is the fervent prayer of his old comrade in captivity and devoted friend, Don Joseph Ohrwalder. Suakin, June, 1895. TRANSLATOR'S NOTE. In preparing the edition in English of Slatin Pasha's experiences in the Sudan, I have followed the system adopted in Father Ohrwalder's " Ten Years' Captivity in the Mahdi's Camp." F. R. Wingate. London, October, 1895. Page i 3° CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Introductory

My First Journey to the Sudan — Retum to Austria— My Second Journey — Corruption in the Sudan — Appointed Governor of Dara — Gordon in Darfur — He suppresses the Slave-trade — Zubeir Pasha and his Son Suleiman — The Gellabas, Jaalin, and Danagla — Retrospect of the First Causes of the Revolt in Bahr el Ghazal — Gessi's Campaigns — The Flight of Rabeh — Execution of Suleiman Zubeir — Effect of the Campaign on the Local Arabs

Chapter II. Residence In Darfur, And Early History Of The Province

Arrival at Om Shanga — Matrimonial Difficulties — A Sudanese Falstaff — Description of El Fasher — The Furs and the Tago — A Tale of Love and Perfidy — Founding of the Tungur Dynasty — Conquest of Darfur by Zubeir Pasha — The Rizighat Tribe — Quarrel between Zubeir Pasha and the Governor-General — Both recalled to Cairo — Gordon Governor-General of the Sudan — I take up my Duties at Dara — Zogal Bey the Sub-Governor — I undertake a Campaign against Sultan Harun — Niumia, Harun's Stronghold in Jebel Marra — I defeat the Sultan at Rahad en Nabak — Death of Harun — My Meeting with Dr. Felkin and the Rev. Wilson — My Boy Kapsun — Gordon's Letter from Abyssinia

Chapter III. The Government Of Darfur

Government Administration in Dara — My Difficulties with the Gellabas — Manners and Customs of the Arabs — Arrival at Shakka — Madibbo Bey Sheikh of the Rizighat — My Visit to Khartum — Arrival of Gessi in Khartum — I return West with Bishop Comboin and Father Ohrwalder — Am appointed Governor-General CONTENTS. Page 90 122 of Darfur — Hostilities between the Maharia and Bedeyat Arabs — I proceed to the Bedeyat Country — Strange Manners and Customs of the Bedeyat — Saleh Donkusa and Heglik Tree — The Cere mony of Taking the Oath of Fidelity — Return to El Fasher — Troubles at Shakka and Death of Emiliani — I leave for Dara . .

Chapter IV. The Khalifa's Personal Account Of The Rise Of The Mahdi

Early Life of Mohammed Ahmed, the Mahdi — The Religious Tarikas — Mohammed Ahmed quarrels with his Religious Superior — He is refused Forgiveness, and joins a Rival Sheikh — He is joined by Abdullahi et Taaishi — The Mahdi secretly tells Abdullahi of his Divine Mission — The Failure to seize Mohammed Ahmed on Abba Island — The Mahdi's Hejra to Jebel Gedir — He nominates his Khalifas — The Defeat of Rashed Bey and Yusef Pasha Shellali — Effect of the Mahdi's Victories in Kordofan — The Mahdi's Intrigues with the Inhabitants of El Obeid — Futility of the Steps taken by the Government to cope with the Revolt . .

Chapter V. Spread Of The Revolt In Southern Darfur

I arrive at Dara — Despatch of an Officer to Shakka — Character of Zogal Bey — Return to El Fasher — Causes of my Unpopularity with the Officers — Disturbances at Om Shanga — The Southern Tribes join the Revolt — I make Dara my Headquarters — The Power of a Woman's Tongue — Immorality of the Maalia Tribe — Sheikh Madibbo threatens Shakka — Cowardly Conduct of Mansur Helmi — I proceed to his Assistance — I commence my Campaign against the Southern Arab Tribes — The Night Attack on Madibbo's Camp — Mansur Helmi's Cowardly Retreat from Shakka — He deserts his own Men — Courageous Conduct of Ali Agha Juma — I decide to retake Dara at all Costs — Difficulty of enforcing my Orders I48

Chapter VI. The Siege And Fall Of El Obeid

Said Pasha, Governor-General of Kordofan, prepares to defend El Obeid — The Mahdi attacks the Town, but is repulsed with Great Loss — The Missionaries at Delen fall into the Mahdi's Hands The Siege and Fall of Bara — The Horrors of the Siege of El Obeid — Said Pasha is forced to surrender — His Interview with the Mahdi — The Search for Treasure — The Mahdi's Miracles Effect of the Fall of El Obeid on the General Situation .... CONTENTS. XV 228

Chapter VII. Vain Efforts To Stem The Tide Of Mahdism In Darfur

Page I advance on Shakka — The Battle of Om Waragat — Besieged in the Zariba — My Retreat on Dara through the Enemy's Country — The Illness and Death of Gottfried Rott — I despatch Secret Emissaries to Kordofan — My Difficulties with the El Fasher Garrison — The Revolt of the Mima Arabs — I learn of the Fall of El Obeid — The Death of Sheikh Afifi — My Campaign against the Mima and Khawabir Arabs — Discovery of a Plot amongst the Troops in Dara — My Officers and Men ascribe our Defeats to the Fact that I am a Christian — I decide to nominally adopt the Mohammedan Religion — I decide to send Zogal Bey to El Obeid — My Campaign against the Beni Helba — Beshari Bey seeks Death and finds it — Gravity of the Situation in Darfur 181

Chapter VIII. Hicks Pasha's Expedition

The Execution of Said Pasha and the Brave Defenders of El Obeid — Spread of Belief in the Mahdi's Divinity — Sheikh Sennusi is offered, but refuses, the Position of Mahdi's Khalifa — The Mahdi begins to organise his Government — The Spread of the Revolt in the Gezira — Criticisms on the Attitude of the Egyptian Government — The Despatch of Osman Digna to the Eastern Sudan — Hicks Pasha's Expedition enters Kordofan — Incidents on the March — Gallantry of Colonel Farquhar — The Diaries of Farquhar and Vizetelly — The Desertion of Gustav Klootz — The Mahdists harass the Expedition — The Final Attack on the Doomed Square — Incidents after the Battle — Extracts from O'Donovan's Diary — The Mahdi's Triumphal Entry into El Obeid

Chapter IX. The Fall Of Darfur

Dara besieged by Madibbo — I make a Successful Counter-Attack — The Overthrow of Darho — I decide to remain at Dara — The Defeat of Kuku Agha — A Strange Expedient for concealing Letters — An Armistice proposed and accepted between Myself and the Besiegers — I resort to Stratagem to gain Time — Zogal writes from El Obeid, and describes the Annihilation of the Relief Expedition — I review the Situation and decide to surrender—Interview with Zogal at Shieria — The Mahdists enter Dara — Madibbo and his War-drums — Horrible Tortures inflicted on the Inhabitants who had concealed Money — The Siege and Fall of El Fasher — Letters from Egypt— The Dreadful Fate of Major Hamada — The Fall of Bahr el Ghazal — I leave for El Obeid CONTENTS. Page

Chapter X. The Siege And Fall Of Khartum

Gordon returns to the Sudan — The Siege of Khartum — I join the Mahdi at Rahad — Interviews and first Impressions of the Mahdi — The Oath of Allegiance — Description of the Khalifa — The Arrival of Hussein Pasha — Criticisms on Gordon's Mission — The Abandonment of the Sudan proclaimed — Incidents in Various Parts of the Sudan — The Arrival of Olivier Pain — His Mission, Illness, and Death — Arrival outside Khartum — I write to Gordon — I am arrested and thrown into Chains — Incidents during my Imprisonment — The Surrender of Omdurman — The Delay of the British Expedition — Khartum is attacked and taken — Gordon's Head is brought to me — Account of the last Days of Khartum — Massacres and Atrocities after the Fall — The Retreat of the British Expedition — The Rigours of my Imprisonment increased — My Comrade in Captivity, Frank Lupton — We are both released — I enter the Khalifa's Bodyguard — Illness and Death of the Mahdi — Khalifa Abdullahi succeeds him — The Rules and Ordinances of the Mahdi 279

CHAPTER XL EARLY RULE OF KHALIFA ABDULLAHI.

Success of Khaled's Stratagem to entrap Darho — Execution of Darho — Sieges of Sennar and Kassala — Fall of Ahmed Wad Suleiman — The Khalifa and the Black Troops — Execution of the Mudir of Kassala — My Journey to Abu Haraz — My Plans of Escape impracticable — The Khalifa presents me with a Wife — Mutiny of Black Soldiers at El Obeid — Death of the Emir^Mahmud — Abu Anga seizes Khaled and throws him into Chains — Campaign in the Nuba Mountains — Lupton in Difficulties — He works in the Khartum Dockyard — Revolt of the Kababish — Difficulties begin with Abyssinia — Death of Klootz — Organisation of the Beit el Mai — The Khalifa's System of Jurisdiction 776

Chapter XII. Events In Various Parts Of The Sudan

Karamalla's Expedition to the Bahr el Ghazal — Madibbo's Quarrel with Karamalla — Affairs in Darfur — Execution of Madibbo Defeat and Death of Sheikh Saleh el Kabbashi — Capture of Charles Neufeld — My Interview with him — Arrival of Abu Anga's Army in Omdurman — Destruction of the Gehena Tribe — The Conspiracy of "Saidna Isa" — Abu Anga's Campaign in Abyssinia — Sack of Gondar — Terrible Fate of the Captives — Osman Adam's Campaign in Darfur — Death of Sultan Yusef — Instances of the Khalifa's Tyranny — Building of the Mahdi's Tomb — Letters from Home — Death of my Mother — Death of Lupton — Nejumi ordered to invade Egypt CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XIII. The Abyssinian Campaign

Page Battle of Gallabat — Death of King John — The Revolt of Abu Gemmaiza — Defeats of the Mahdists — Death of Abu Gemmaiza — Preparations for the Invasion of Egypt — Execution of Sixty-seven Batahin Arabs — More Letters from Home — My Family send the Khalifa a Dressing-bag from Vienna — Immigration of the Taaisha Tribe — They settle in the Nile Valley — Nejumi advances into Egypt — Battle of Toski — Incidents during the Great Famine — The Fall of Ibrahim Adlan — His Execution — The Khalifa mistrusts me — I fall into Serious Danger — I become the Unwilling Recipient of the Khalifa's Favours 439

Chapter XIV. Mahdist Occupation Of The Southern Provinces

The Mahdist Expedition to Equatoria — The Fate of the Remnant of Emin's Garrison — The Campaign against the Shilluks — Tokar re-captured — Death of Osman Wad Adam — Dissensions in Dongola — The Fall of Khaled 468

Chapter XV. Dissension And Discord

The Revolt of the Ashraf — Flight of Father Ohrwalder and the Two Sisters — The Khalifa revenges himself on the Ashraf — The Seizure and Execution of the Mahdi's Uncles — Zeki Tummal's Return to Omdurman laden with Booty — Khalifa Sherif arrested — "Where there is no Fire there is no Smoke " — I change my Q uarters — Sad News from Austria — The Khalifa falls 111 — The Story of the Bird-messenger — The Fall of Zeki Tummal — The Battle of Agordat — The Capture of Kassala — The Fate of Kadi Ahmed — The Congo Free State in Equatoria and Bahr el Ghazal — I refuse to marry the Khalifa's Cousin 479

Chapter XVI. Miscellaneous Remarks

The Person and Characteristics of Khalifa Abdullahi — The Fate of the Mahdist Chronicler — The Princesses of Darfur — The Khalifa's Family Life — His Harem — The Organisation of his Body-guard — Enforced Attendance at the Mosque — The Postal System — Military Parades — Elevation of the Western Arabs and Oppression of the River Tribes — The Military Situation and Strength — Guns and Ammunition — Revenue and Expenditure — Courage CONTENTS. Page 576

Chapter XVII. Miscellaneous Remarks

(continued). Administration of Justice — The Kadi el Islam — Religion in the Sudan — The Khalifa's Sermons — Enforced Pilgrimage to the Mahdi's Tomb — Limits of the Mahdist Empire — Natural Produce — Caravan Roads — Ostrich Hunting — Trade and Commerce — The Slave-trade — The Slave Market — Industries — Immorality — Unpopularity of the Khalifa — His Ignorance and Cruelty — His Private Apartments — Principal Buildings in Omdurman — Description of the City — The Prison and its Horrors — Death of Zeki Tummal and Kadi Ahmed 544

Chapter XVIII. Plans For Escape

European Captives in Omdurman — Artin, the Watchmaker — Friends in Cairo — Efforts of my Family to help me — Difficulties of Communication — Babakr Abu Sebiba's failure — Efforts of Baron Heidler and the Egyptian Intelligence Department — Constant Failures — Osheikh Karrar — Abderrahman matures his Plans — Hopes and Fears — My Plan to gain Time — I quit my Hut never to return

Chapter XIX. My Flight

I escape from the Town by Night — My Guides Zeki Belal and Mohammed — A Scare — 130 Miles in 34 Hours — Our Camels break down — Hiding in the Gilif Mountains — Precautions against Surprise — Arrival of Fresh Camels — Our Journey to the Nile — The Crossing — Friendly Sheikhs — Narrow Escape from a Large Armed Party of Mahdists — Difficulties with my Guides — Hamed Garhosh the Amrabi — Out of Danger — Assuan at last — Congratulations and Welcome — Arrival in Cairo — Meeting with Old Friends 591

Chapter XX. Conclusion

Africa, Past and Present — The Sudan, Past and Present — Rise, Progress, and Wane of Mahdism — How long will it last ? — The Khalifa's Present Position — European Encroachment — "Whites "in the Bahr el Ghazal — Important Strategical Position of the Province — Time and Tide wait for no Man — I recover my Long-lost Sword — A Last Word 620 Index LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page Slatin Pasha Frontispiece Gessi Pasha's Troops advancing to the Attack on > v & [ To face 18 "Dem Suleiman" ) Zubeir Pasha " 4S A Rizighat Warrior " 52 Bedayat praying to the Sacred Tree " 114 Surrender of the Bedayat to Slatin " 116 Fight between the Rizighat and Egyptian Troops . . " 188 A Dervish Emir " 238 The Death of Hicks Pasha " 240 Bringing Gordon's Head to Slatin " 340 An Abyssinian Scout " 424 A Slave Dhow on the Nile " 430 The Mahdi's Tomb, Omdurman " 432 The Execution of the " Batahin " " 446 Famine-stricken " 454 The Khalifa inciting his Troops to attack Kassala . .

" 504 The Khalifa and Kadis in Council " 528 In the Slave Market, Omdurman " 558 Coming from Market, Omdurman " 570 Slatin Pasha's flying from Omdurman " 592 Slatin in hiding in the hills " 598 A Camel Corps Scout " 616 Plan of Khartum and Omdurman. Map showing Extent of Mahdist Influence in 1895.

Chapter I. Introductory

My First Journey to the Sudan — Return to Austria — My Second Journey — Corruption in the Sudan — Appointed Governor of Dara — Gordon in Darfur — He suppresses the Slave-Trade — Zubeir Pasha and his Son Suleiman — The Gellabas, Jaalin, and Danagla — Retrospect of the First Causes of the Revolt in Bahr el Ghazal — Gessi's Campaigns — The Flight of Rabeh — Execution of Suleiman Zubeir — Effect of the Campaign on the Local Arabs. IN July, 1878, when serving as lieutenant in H. I. H. the Crown Prince Rudolph's regiment, the 19th Foot, on the Bosnian frontier, I received a letter from General Gordon, inviting me to come to the Sudan and take ser vice with the Egyptian Government, under his direction. I had previously, in 1874, undertaken a journey to the Sudan, travelling by Assuan, Korosko, and Berber, and had reached Khartum in the month of October of that year; thence I had visited the Nuba mountains, and had remained a short time at Delen, where a station of the Austrian Roman Catholic Mission had just been estab lished.

From here I explored the Golfan Naima and Kadero mountains, and would have made a longer stay in these interesting districts, but the revolt of the Hawazma Arabs broke out, and, being merely a traveller, I received a summons to return forthwith to El Obeid, the chief town of Kordofan. The Arab revolt, which had arisen over the collection of the excessively high taxes imposed by the Government, was soon suppressed; but, under the I circumstances, I did not think it worth while returning to the Nuba districts, and therefore decided to travel in Darfur. At that time the Governor-General of the Sudan, Ismail Pasha Ayub, was staying at El Fasher, the capital of Darfur; and on reaching Kaga and Katul, I found, to my great disappointment, that an order had just been issued prohibiting strangers from entering the country, as it had been only recently subjugated, and was considered unsafe for travellers.

I returned therefore, without further delay, to Khartum ; where I made the acquaintance of Emin Pasha (then Dr. Emin), who had arrived a few days previously from Egypt in company with a certain Karl von Grimm. At that time General Gordon was Governor-General of the Equatorial Provinces, and was residing at Lado ; so to him we wrote asking for instructions. Two months afterwards the reply came inviting us to visit Lado ; but in the meantime letters had reached me from my family in Vienna urging me to return to Europe. I had been suffering considerably from fever, and besides I was under the obligation of completing my military service the following year. I therefore decided to comply with the wishes of my family. Dr. Emin, however, accepted Gordon's invitation, and he started soon afterwards for the south, while I left for the north.

Before parting, I begged Emin to recommend me to General Gordon, which he did ; and this introduction eventually resulted in my receiving the letter to which I have already referred, three years later. Emin, it will be remembered, was, soon after his arrival at Lado, granted the rank of Bey, and appointed Governor of Lado ; and on Gordon's departure he was nominated Governor-General of Equatoria, in which position he remained until relieved by Mr. Stanley, in 1889. I returned to Egypt by the Bayuda Desert, Dongola, and Wadi Haifa, and reached Austria towards the close of 1875. INTRODUCTORY. 3 Gordon's letter, received in the midst of the Bosnian campaign, delighted me ; I longed to return to the Sudan in some official capacity; but it was not till December, 1878, when the campaign was over and my battalion had gone into quarters at Pressburg, that I received permission, as an officer of the Reserve, to set out once more for Africa.

My brother Henry was still in Herzegovina; so, remaining only eight days in Vienna, to bid the rest of my family farewell, I left for Trieste on 2 1st December, 1878, little dreaming that nearly seventeen years would elapse, and that I should experience such strange and terrible adventures, before I should see my home again. I was then twenty-two years of age. On arrival in Cairo, I received a telegram from Giegler Pasha, from Suez ; he had just been appointed Inspector- General of Sudan Telegraphs, and was on his way to Massawa, to inspect the line between that place and Khartum ; he invited me to travel with him as far as Suakin, and I gladly availed myself of his kind offer. We parted at Suakin, he proceeding by steamer to Massawa, while I made preparations to cross the desert to Berber on camels.

I received every assistance from Ala ed Din Pasha, who was then Governor, and who subsequently, as Governor-General of the Sudan, accompanied Hicks Pasha, and was killed with him when the entire Egyptian force was annihilated at Shekan, in November, 1883. On reaching Berber, I found a dahabia awaiting me there by General Gordon's orders, and, embarking imme diately, I arrived at Khartum on 15th January, 1879. Here I was shown every kindness and consideration ; Gordon placed at my disposal a house situated not far from the palace, and a certain Ali Effendi was directed to attend to all my wants. In the course of our daily meetings, Gen eral Gordon used often to talk of the Austrian officers whom he had met at Tultcha, when on the Danube Commission, and for whom he entertained a genuine friendship.

I remember his saying to me that he thought it was such a mistake to have changed our smart white jackets for the blue uniform we now wear. Early in February, Gordon appointed me Financial Inspector, and I was instructed to travel about the country and examine into the complaints of the Sudanese who objected to the payment of the taxes, which were not considered unreasonably heavy. In compliance with these orders, I proceeded via Mesallamia to Sennar and Fazogl, whence I visited the mountain districts of Kukeli, Regreg, and Kashankero, in the neighbourhood of Beni Shangul ; and then I submitted my report to General Gordon. In this report I pointed out that, in my opinion, the dis tribution of taxes was unjust, and resulted in the bulk of taxation falling on the poorer landed proprietors, whilst those who were better off had no difficulty in bribing the tax-gatherers, for a comparatively small sum, to secure exemption.

Thus enormous quantities of land and prop erty entirely escaped taxation, whilst the poorer classes were mercilessly ground down, in order to make up the heavy deficit which was the result of this most nefarious system. I further pointed out that much of the present discontent was due to the oppressive and tyrannical methods of the tax-gatherers, who were for the most part soldiers, Bashi-Bozuks, and Shaigias. These unscrupulous officials thought only of how to enrich themselves as quickly as possible at the expense of the unfortunate populations, over whom they exercised a cruel and brutal authority. In the course of my journey, I frequently observed that the property of the Sudan officials — for the most part Shaigias and Turks — was almost invariably exempted from taxation ; and, on inquiry, I was always told that this privilege had been procured, owing to the special services they had rendered the Government.

When I remarked that they received pay for their services, they appeared greatly offended and annoyed. However, on my arresting some of the principal delinquents, they admitted that their taxes were justly due. In Mesallamia, which is a large INTRODUCTORY. 5 town situated between the Blue and White Niles, and a considerable trade centre, I found an immense collection of young women, the property of the wealthiest and most respected merchants, who had procured them and sold them for immoral purposes, at high prices. This was evidently a most lucrative trade ; but how were the estab lishments of these merchants to be taxed, and what action was I to take? I confess that ideas and experience on this point quite failed me ; and feeling my utter inability under these circumstances to effect any reform, and having at the same time little or no financial experience, I felt it was useless to continue, and therefore sent in my resignation.