Melinda the Caboceer; or, Sport in Ashanti. A tale of the Gold Coast. ... With ... illustrations

Preface

. When on the Gold Coast some years since I formed the acquaintance of several Ashantee caboceers, who were then out on the war-path against the King of Axiru and other petty chiefs. One of them, with whom I was particularly intimate, told me that ho was not an Ashantee by birth, but a native of one of the Niger States, and had been seized in one of the kidnapping expeditions of his neighbours, just after he had wedded the daughter of a friendly king. He had been sold into slavery, together with his bride, and after many adven tures had arrived iu Ashantee, where he became separated from his wife. Although a slave when he entered the country, he quickly gained the esteem of his master by his bravery, and upon his death, following a common custom of all nations of the West Coast, he succeeded him in his office as caboceer.

After many failures, he was fortunate enough to recover his wife, aud was only awaiting an opportunity to return to his own country when I met with him. Upjn his narrative the following tale is founded, while many of the hunting scenes are taken from my own adven tures in Western Africa.

PREFACE.

. VI Though the names and localities have been changed, yet there are many residents upon the Gold Coast who will possibly recognise an old acquaintance in Melinda. The work has been written with the desire to give a slight insight into some of the manners and customs and scenes of every-day life in Ashantee, in a lighter form than a dry narra tion of facts ; and if I have succeeded in imparting the slightest knowledge of the habits of a race now so promi nently brought before us through the recent war, my object has been attained. Perhaps a more sensational novel might have been written, but I have confined myself throughout to incidents which either came under my own observation, or which are of such common occurrence as to be within the ken of every person who has the good or ill luck to be a resident upon the Gold Coast, Trusting, therefore, that the reader will pardon any short comings his better judgment may detect, I lay the book before him, and if he is, by its perusal, enabled to while away an idle hour, I shall be well satisfied. J. A. S. PACE CONTENTS.

Chapter I

We Leave England— Gale of Wind— Madeira— Teneriffe— The Gambia — Sierra Leone — Thomas Ximbley, Esq. — Sharks at Cape Palmas — Arrival at Assinee — Precarious Landing — "Pawns'' — Aziza the Lion-hearted — We Start for the Interior 1

Chapter VII

Terrible News — Invasion of the Rabbarori — Baraka's Exorcism — The Attack — Death of Mpengala — Capture of Melinda — ■ Repulse of the Rabbarori — Awoona also a Prisoner — They are Sold into Slavery — Melinda is Created a Caboceer in Ashantee — He hears News of Awoona ..... 132

Chapter VIII

The O^ras — King Koffue's Reception — Gorgeous Assembly — Procession of Nobles — The Fetiche Tree of Coomassie — Palace of the King ..... . . . . . . 150

Chapter IX

Araba and tbe Doctor — The Greegree — Opomba's Victim — An Anti-Greegree Cracker — Flight of the Feticheer — Another Patient — " Wanted, a Seidlitz Powder" — State Thieves — An Execution 171

Chapter X

A Visit from Driver Ants— A Formidable Invasion — Farewell to King Koffee — A Defaulter Punished — Horrible Dacapitation Scene — Palm Oil Manufacture — The Bantama Tombs — Our Last Night in Coomassie I90 CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XL PACE

We Leave Coomassie for the Interior — A Dewy Morning — Ants again — Richards Gets into a Fix — Our Camp in the Forest — We Consider our Future Route — News of the Chimpanzee — Fetiche Game — Fortescue Walks into the Ants, and they Walk into Him — How Melinda Telegraphed for Assistance — His Vow — The Messengers of the Ashantee Gods — The Man with the Cast-iron Stomach — Alligators — Crossing on a Reed Raft — Fighting a Crocodile in the Water — A Terrible Snake Adventure 216

Chapter XII

Dedumassie — We are Invited to the Marriage of a Caboceer — Curious Ceremony — Ashantee Umbrellas and Ashantee Guns — An Ashantee Bride — Water versus Carbolic Acid 237

Chapter XIII

Elephants again — Narrow Escape of being Run Down — A Thick Jungle — Fearful Peril — A Good Day's Sport — Nearly Killed by a Dead Elephant — Elephant Cookery — Lion Hunting — Adventure with a Python — A Crocodile Hunt — I am nearly Bitten by a Snake 248

Chapter XIV

A Rheumatic Patient — A Man Bewitched — Malignant Cruelty of Fetichism — A Murder through Witchcraft — Death of Ovenga — Night in the Forest — An Unfortunate Buffalo — Vencmous Spiders — Chimpanzee Hunting — We nearly Lose our Prey — What is a Crab? — Monkey versus Baby — A Scaly Manis — I Discover a Cave — Stalactites — Horrible Meeting wilh a Python . 2u3

Chapter XV

A Duel with Hippopotami — Terrible Encounter with a Panther — Two Men Seized — Tortoises— A Desperate Rhinoceros — A Baboon Hotel — Running down Elephants — A Heavy Game Bag — An Unwelcome Bedfellow CONTENTS. X TAGE 293 316

Chapter XVI

Another Python— Thrilling Adventure with an Elephant— Moreymai's Terror at Witchcraft — Driving out Witches, Imposing Ceremony — An Invasion — -Our Successful Resistance — Offers of Slaves — News of Awoona at Last . .

CHAPTER XVIL

We Start on our Expedition in Search of Awoona — River Scenery — King Bangala of Addalundah — His Duplicity — We are not Deceived by Him — The Results of Melinda's Scouting Expedition — Awoona is Carried off to Bangala's Plantation — -His Intentions respecting Her — Melinda Misses his Quiver — We get a Sight of Awoona at Last — Success of our Plans — Aziza and Melinda are nearly Shot Over a Cataract .

Chapter XVIII

Awoona'a Narrative — She is Thrice Sold as a Slave — Her Narrow Escape of being Re-married — We Start on our Canoe Journey — Narrow Escape of being Discovered — Another Shave — We are Fired at by Bangala — The Fight — Banning the Gauntlet — Safe Arrival at Assacoomah — The King's Opinion of Englishmen 332

Chapter XIX

A Midnight Attack — Terrible Massacre — Awoona's Narrow Escape—The Lugandas to the Rescue — Funeral of King Leamba at Dedumassie — Coomassie again — Quakoo's Villainy — Almost Poisoned — Cape Coast Castle — Departure for England , , , LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE A SIIKIEK AND A rLUKGE TOLD US THAT niS AIM HAD BEEN" TRUE ...... Frontispiece I THRUST TIIE GUN DOWN HIS THItOAT .... 48 STAMPING WITH RAGE, HE AGAIN APPROACHED THE GATE 1S2 A WELL-DIRECTED SHOT JUST ABOVE THE EYE, IN THE LEFT TEMPLE, BROUGHT HER TO THE GROUND . 25

Chapter I. We Leave England

— GALE OF WIND — MADEIRA — TEXERIFFE — THE GAMBIA — SIERRA LEONE — THOMAS NIMBLEY, ESQ. — SHAKES AT CAPE PALMAS — ARRIVAL AT ASSINEE — rBECABIOtfS LANDING — "PAWNS " — AZIZA THE LION-nEAUTED— WE START POE THE INTERIOB. The African Company's steam-tender 'Fairy' was dancing up and down upon the " lumpy " water at the Prince's Landing- Stage, Liverpool, about two o'clock one morning in February, 11 — , ready to embark the passengers for the steamship ' Benin.' Her deck was lumbered up with a heterogeneous collection of laggage, from the prim corded and canvas-covered trunks of the governess in charge of the "young ladies" who were about to spend a few months in Madeira, to the strong serviceable tin packing eases of the agent returning to "the Coast" for the thirteenth time. Sturdy porters with irreproachable blouses, aud as genuine a brogue, were toiling down the stairs leading to the Landing-Stage, ever adding to the piles already accumulated on the deck.

Here comes what might be called by a very slight stretch of the v. imagination a caravan, which, by tbe ease with which it is carried by the porter, cannot contain anything very heavy, and which is under the especial eye of an austere-looking personage of the gentler sex. As this lady will occupy a rather conspicuous place on the ' Benin's ' list of passengers, a brief description may be acceptable. Short— absolutely squat, — with an incipient hump, and no neck to speak of, she was one of those curiously built people who puzzle one's brains to tell whether they are sitting down or standing up. Her age might be anywhere between thirty-eight and sixty, and her sallow complexion was rendered more sepulchral in its Hue by two conspicuous patches of rouge, while her cap, of the pattern of the last century, which seemed to have been made up of clippings of a raiubow, so mul titudinous were its tints, afforded a peculiar contrast to her putty-coloured skin ; in her right hand she held a veritable Mrs. Gamp, while on the other arm a string-netted bag con tamed a pocket-handkerchief, a fan, a vinaigrette, and fourpence halfpenny carefully twisted up in a scrap of newspaper.

With the hook of her umbrella stuck through the cords of her box as au additional precaution against ita falling, she waddled alon"- in the rear of her porter much after the fashion of a duck in pattens. As the man paused to allow a brother porter to ascend, a harsh grating voice broke upon the ear iu the words, "Non then, mind my box. Good gracious ! mind what you are at • if you drop my box you will spoil my new fronts." Making a clutch at the sacred package with a greater care for the safety of her property than the stability of her equilibrium she slipped on one of the cleats of the stairs, and sat down with a suddenness that was, to say the least of it, remarkable the hook of her umbrella hitting a sedate-looking gentleman \\h0 was following her, iu the face. The porter with tbe " caravan " walked on regardless of the accident, while a bystander, foreseeing perhaps a prospective sixpence, flew to the aid of lovely woman iu distress, and, havine set her on her feet, gallantly escorted her on board the tender1 EDWARD FORTESCUE. 3 where the discomfited lady obtained spiritual solace from the stewardess in the shape of a glass of brandy.

The bell of the tender had just begun to toll for the last time, when a cab dashed up to the stage, and a tall gentleman, accompanied by another who had evidently travelled, alighted, and, tossing half-a-crown to the driver, hurried ou board the boat. Making his way towards the stern, he was saluted by two per sons, apparently his servants, who, pointing to a huge pile of luggage near them, said, " All safe on board, sir, though we had some difficulty in getting the powder down in time." " Well so long as it is on board, Richards, we will not grumble." Just at this moment the purser and doctor of the ' Benin ' made their appearance, and in a few moments the 'Fairy' had cast off her moorings and was paddling off towards the ' Benin,' which, coming down " dead slow," was now visible about a mile from us.

While getting alongside, we will inquire who the owner ofthe powder is. A glance at the luggage upon wliich he is sitting reveals the letters, " E. F., C. C. C," and as the doctor nods familiarly to the owner with a " Good-morning, Mr. Fortescue," we may conclude that the letters stand ior " Edward Fortescue, Cape Coast Castle." Nor should we be deceived. Edward Fortescue, the sou ot a wealthy squire in one of the southern counties, had always been an ardent sportsman, and when upon the death of his father he i'ound himself possessed of sufficient wealth to gratify his tastes to repletion, he at once determined to visit West Africa for the purpose of forming a personal acquaintance with the people aud to enjoy that sport of which he was so passionately foud, the pheasants and hares of his own domain scarcely presenting worthy objects upon which tc spend his powder.

He was ac companied by two servants, Eichards and Stuart, and, to judge from the pyramid of gun-cases, shot-bags, and ether bunting impedimenta, he was evidently bent upon dealing destruction to the feræ naturæ of the " Coast." His companion was the uarrator of these adventures, Arthur Danvers, a restless wanderer, whose descriptions of West Africa had induced Fortescue to visit its unhealthy shores. Arrived alongside the ' Benin,' the luggage was quickly trans ferred to her spacious deck, the transhipment of the ladies from the bobbing paddle-box of the tender being a splendid oppor tunity for the gallant services of the gentlemen ; but Miss Stevens, our friend with the caravan, indignantly declined the offer of t lie arm of a young officer, telling him to " Go along w ith his imperdence," and, essaying to step on board the steamer at the time the tender was more than usually restive, she again came to grief, and measured her length — or shortness rather — on the poop of the 'Benin,' while the unfortunate umbrella, being totally inadequate to sustain her weight, was snapped into three pieces.

No sooner had the tender cast off than the bell in the engine room gave four strokes, the signal for full speed ahead, and the pilot on the bridge, pulling up the scarf still higher round his throat, seemed to be glad to get on a little faster. Meanwhile the purser and stewards were busily engaged iu conducting the passengers to tlieir respective berths, and in putting their multi tudinous packages under safe custody. Miss Stevens was heard in vigorous strife with the purser because her cabin or bedroom as she called it, was next to that of two officers who were o-oin" out to the Gambia, besides which she declared that she was not going to sleep in a " pig-trough," and was still more discomfited wheu she was seriously told that the captain would not send ashore for another umbrella to replace the one broken by her dignified entrance upon the vessel.

Soon we were off the Bell Buoy, — that clanging beacon, warning the mariner of the dangerous proximity of the treacherous sands while, at the same time, it cheers him with the thought that lie has almost reached his desired haven, and that in a few hours his responsibilities will be over, and his anxiety rewarded by the loving welcomes of his friends. The Skerries were passed iu due time, and shortly after the IN TIIE IRISH CHANNEL 5 frowning cliffs of Holyhead, with tlieir picturesque lighthouses and coast-guard station, appeared. Here the pilot left us, and we were severed from the only remaining connection with old England. As the shades of evening deepened, we steamed by the ill starred spot where the 'Royal Charter' was lost, and where the heroism of the Maltese sailor shone out so conspicuously in his gallant attempt to save the lives of his fellow-voyagers.

As the night came on, the distant shores receded into misty nothing ness, and, just as four bells were struck, we lost sight of tbe cloudy bank which, somewhat darker than the rest, was all that we could distinguish of the hills of Carnarvon, and a sadness came over us at the thought that we had gazed upon the shores of dear old England perhaps for the last lime, and that ere our eyes were again gladdened by the sight, some of those dear friends we were leaving iu sorrow behind us might be called away to that bourn from which no traveller returns. Seated round the tea-table on that first evening there was a subdued tone in the conversation, for even the captaiu himself acknow ledged that he felt a something rising iu his throat as he left all that was dear to him for a voyage on the treacherous sea.

About four in the morning the brilliaut light of the Tuskar was seen on our starboard beam, and by broakfast-time the ' Benin ' was bowing gracefully to the heaving swell of the Atlantic. Most of the ladies, and indeed some of the gentle men, were below calling anxiously for the steward, for one of the first requirements of Neptune seems to be to demand an empty stomach on the part of his visitors. Such of us as possessed " sea legs " were gazing admiringly at the numerous vessels sailing in every direction, some beating against the wind, others running before it with stu'ns'ls alow and aloft, the snowy foam curling round their bows or being dashed away, as if the noble vessel scornfully rejected their embrace. Fortescue soon made friends with every one on board, from the captain to the boys ; nothing appeared to delight him so much as to go forward on to the fo'c'sT in the evening, armed with a bottle of rum, and listen to the yarns of some of the old salts or the uproarious songs of the younger ones ; at other times he would be found in the engine-room sitting on an upturned bag of waste, making inquiries into the wondrous mechanism which surrounded him.

The morning of the third day out was ushered in with a drizzling rain and a leaden-coloured sky, while the bright blue of the ocean was changed to a dull cold steel, against which the snow-white foam of the wave-crests shone out conspicuously. The sailors were clad in their by no means picturesque oilskin garments, which appeared to be made to fit anything rather than human beings, while tlieir broad-flapped sou'westers strongly reminded one of CockerelPs coal-porters. The captain had been anxiously watching the movements of the barometer, and during breakfast was hurriedly summoned on deck by the officer of the watch. The scene at the table was a lively one ; mutton cutlets seemed to be endued with wonderful locomotive powers, while ham and eggs had a very exciting waltz round the dish. A faint scream from one of the ladies proclaimed the deposition of a cup of tea in her lap, while, at the same instant, a smothered Messing f.-om one of the gentlemen announced the arrival of a plate of curried fowl in his waistcoat-pockets.

Little Miss Stevens, who, with napkin pinned below her chin, was prepared to comfort her inner man (or woman, which ?) with some Irish stew, very suddenly disappeared from view, followed by her plate, and Irish stew and old maid were mingled in hopeless confusion. At the same time the lashings holding one of the chairs gave way, aud, the steamer giving a more than usually violent lurch, the unfortunate occupant found himself in the lee scuppers struggling with Miss Stevens and her Irish stew in the vain hope of regaining the perpendicular. By this time the wind had increased to a gale, aud the ominous howling through the rigging, combined with the roar of the waves and the creaking of the bulkheads, made up a delightful chaos of sound. Poor Miss Stevens, after being carefully picked out of her breakfast by the steward, was seen no more that day, but was heard lamenting her fate at being on board a "MAN OVERBOARD:' 7 vessel, the captain of which had so little respect for ladies as to permit such a sceue at the breakfast-table.

Fortescue and a few other gentlemen-passengers made their way on deck, where the sight that met their gaze was truly grand. The waves, piled one upon another to a gigantic size, appeared to rush upon the vessel as she plunged through them, burying her bows several feet deep in their white fragments, and almost stopping in her course with the violence of the shock ; tons of water flooded the decks at each submergence, and the noble vessel, rising from the struggle, seemed to shake the deluge from her like a spaniel when leaving the water. The wind would ofttimes catch hold of the crest of some watery giant and hurl it in a sheet of spray far to leeward ; and at another some huge billow would be seen coming on like au avalanche, threatening to engulf our little vessel, when suddenly it would topple over and dissolve into a glorious cataract of foam, boiling with a roar like a miniature Niagara.

Our vessel seemed to have discovered tbe secret of perpetual motion, for she at one time reared her bow so far out of the water as to show her fore-foot, and ts> a person standing on the bridge appeared to be impending over a watery abyss, and at another plunged into the trough, as though seeking to end her troubles in a watery grave. It was by no means an easy task for the best " shell-back "* to keep his feet, for so sudden were the plunges that they fairly threw one up and then caught one again. The saloon was a chaos of passengers huddled down to the lee corners, and each working upon the other's fears as to the issue of the tempest. Those who had not yet recovered from their sea-sickness were by far the best off, for by remaining in their bunks they escaped the perils of broken limbs and scalded persons, which those who attempted a meal were necessarily exposed to.

Suddenly a crash, followed by a loud cry of " Man overboard," roused every one to their feet ; the jibboom, after being buried a • " A shell-back " is a sailor's nickname for an old eeaman. hundred times in the foam, at length snapped, and the foretop mast, losing its support, soon followed. As the spars went over board, the boatswain, becoming entangled in the rope-", was dragged over the side, and, a huge billow falling on board at the same time, all were horror-struck at the sight of the poor fellow hurried several yards from the vessel's side by the rush of waters. The engines were at once stopped, and every effort made to save the unfortunate man, but without avail. His shrieks and cries for help fell upon our ears as his death-knell, for to launch a boat was only to imperil the lives of a dozen others, who were only kept back from the rash but gallant attempt by the stern commands ofthe captain.

Meanwhile the wreck of the jibboom drifted away from the ship, and a dozen men rushing up the rig ging shrieked out to the drowning man to swim towards it ; and, although their voices were drowned by the roar of the tempest, which appeared to almost blow the words down their throats again, their gestures appeared to bave had the desired effect, for the bos'n, who was known to be an excellent swimmer, was seen struggling towards the spar. With eager eyes the crew*, one and all, watch the progress of the race for life ; if he succeeds in reaching the spar be may be picked up, but if not he is hopelessly lost. With breathless faces crew and passengers wait for the denouement. " Has he reached it ? " " No, he is far from it. Stay, he rapidly nears the spar, — he touches it, — he clasps his arm round it," and as a deafening cheer, heard high above the roar of the tempest, floats far away to leeward, he raises bis hand in answer.

The engines are manœuvred ahead and astern with extreme caution, for should one of the huge waves come upon us unprepared, it may send us to the bottom in a few moments. An eager crowd are gathered round the taffrail with life-buoys and life-lines, and as we near the bos'n, saved truly from the jaws of deatb, some are almost ready to leap overboard to hasten the rescue. At length the wrecked spar is close alongside, and the bos'n is lifted on deck with his face streaming with tears, while many a hardy weather-stained face is observed to be screwed up DECK QUOITS. 9 into curious expressions as a tell-tale moisture in the eyea proclaims the inward struggle. The loss of our spars seemed to satisfy the fury of Boreas, for both wind and sea quickly fell, and within a few hours we were steamiug at full speed, although the heaving waves still testified to the struggle iu which they had been so recently engaged.

The next few days were passed by the generality of the pas sengers as days are commonly passed at sea. AVe had favourable weather, and the ladies came gradually creeping up on deck as flies show themselves at the approach of spring. Fortescue, who had been almost as constantly on deck as if he had been one of the officers, was busily engaged in manufactu ring some wreaths of rope called grommets, with which to get up a game of deck quoits. Talk of croquet as being the game par excellence to bring about flirtation; it sinks into insignificance when compared to deck quoits. First there is the superintend ence ofthe manufacture, the ladies being called upon to supply the scraps of scarlet, blue, or yellow ribbon with which to distinguish the quoits one from the other ; next comes the game itself, the tees being merely chalked spots on the poop.

Look at that young sylph going out to Madeira for the benefit of her health, as if rosy cheeks and a robust form did not give the lie direct to aDy insinuated illness. She takes hold of her quoit as if it were a muffin, and of course young Jones of the Buffs must set it right for her, employing a rather longer time in busying himself with her taper fingers than the requirements of the case would seem to demand ; then the vessel gives a roll just as the dear creature throws the quoit, and, losing her balance, she starters to leeward, there to be received in the arms of half-a dozen young gentlemen at least. Truly, what with these little incidents, and the fact of Julia kissing Herbert, and Miss Grosvenor being kissed by Captain Somerville (their quoits I mean), deck quoits is a dangerous game.

Match-making mammas bad better give up picnics and take to a sea voyage if they wish to get their daughters off their hands with the least amount of trouble to themselves. About five o'clock one evening laud was announced on the starboard bow, which our captain recognised as Porto Santo. To the uninitiated all that could be discerned was a heavy rain cloud, and even to those who had been to sea before it required some amount of faith to believe in its existence. Miss Stevens for one was very sceptical on the subject, declaring her belief that the captain had lost his way and had only given out this news to prevent unpleasant questionings from the pas sengers. " She was not going to be lauded upon any place which was evidently built up of fog." Later on, however, its peaks and valleys became distinctly visible, and we soon caught sight of the lighthouse at the eastern extremity of Madeira, which shed its solitary ray of light like a lone star for the guidance of the mariner.

Rounding the point we soon passed the little hamlet where the first settlers of the island fixed their residence, and finally, just as the church clock was striking midnight, the deep boom of our signal-gun, echoing and reverberating from hill to hill, and the rattle of our cable announced our arrival in the roads of Funchal. Next morning I was awakened by Fortescue throwing a pil low at my head and crying out, "Now then, old fellow, what on earth do you mean by sleeping here while so glorious a scene is spread out before us and only waiting for us to visit it? " " Ah ! I thought the sight of Funchal would make you long to get ashore, Fortescue, but you must not expect to find every thing couleur de rose as you seem to imagine." " Now don't damp a fellow's ardour in that way, Arthur, — ■ none of your cold blankets for me.

Just turn out and let us get ashore in one of those gondola-looking affairs as soou as pos sible." In a short time after this conversation Fortescue and I were pacing the deck with a cup of coffee as a preparative towards the ramble we intended to take before breakfast. The town of Funchal lay terraced out before us with its white villas dotted here and there amid the woody groves from which the island takes its name ; the clouds of night were gradually being drawn FUNCHAL. 1 1 upwards by the heat of the sun, and as they alternately revealed and shut off some lovely vista in their gauzy veil, the landscape presented ever-varyiug features. Our steamer was surrounded by numbers of gaily-painted boats with high stems, stocked with live turtle, bananas, work boxes, feather-flowers, canary-birds, and other articles ; two or three boats were in the possession of urchins clothed only in cotton drawers, who eagerly requested the passengers to throw them a piece of silver " for dive, sir." " I wonder whether these urchins could catch a shilling before it reached the bottom," said Fortescue.

" Aye, that they could, before it was five fathoms down," said I. " Well here goes for a trial of their diving prowess," said he, throwing a shilling into the middle of a group of four semi naked boys who were more clamorous than the rest. With a splash they all disappeared like a row of water-rats ou the appearance of danger, and when the bubbles had subsided we discovered them far below the surface struggling for the prize, which had been grasped by one of them, from whom the others were endeavouring to snatch the money. On arriving at the surface the successful diver exultingly showed us the shilling, when, to their unspeakable delight, I threw them another, which they quickly brought to light again. Coffee over, we prepared to go ashore. The moment we showed ourselves near the gangway a general chorus of tawny boatmen in bad Portuguese and still worse English invited us to patronize their particular craft.