Travels in Germany and Russia; including a steam voyage by the Danube and the Euxine from Vienna to Constantinople, in 1838, 39

Front matter

TRAVELS IN GERMANY AND RUSSIA: INCLUDING A STEAM VOYAGE BY THE DANUBE AND THE EUXINE FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE, IN 1838—39. tiy ADOLPHUS SLADE, ESQ. R.N. AUTHOR OF " RECORDS OF TRAVELS IN THE EAST : " " TURKEY, GREECE, and malta:" etc. etc. LONDON : LONGMAN, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS. M.DCCC.XL. LONDON: PRINTED BY MANNING AND MASON, IVV r.ANR, PATERNOSTER ROW TO JOHN CARTWRIGHT, ESQ. BRITISH CONSUL-GENERAL AT CONSTANTINOPLE, THE ABLE AND ZEALOUS SUPPORTER OF THE INTERESTS OF HIS COUNTRYMEN IN TURKEY FOR MORE THAN A QUARTER OF A CENTURY, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE INSCRIBED, WITH RESPECT AND ESTEEM, BY THE AUTHOR. PACE CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Steam-boat Heligoland

— STADE DUES — CUX- HAVEN — BREMEN-HAFEN — BREMEN HANSE TOWNS — COMMERCIAL UNION — HANOVER - - 1 II. HANOVER — HOTEL — TRAVELLERS — TURKISH PASHA — OPERA SOCIETY HANOVERIAN ARMY — THE KING — CONSTITUTIONAL QUESTION OF HANOVER — REVENUE OF HANOVER - - - - - 28 III. COMPANIONS — HALSBERSTADT — ACCIDENT — EDUCA- TION — HALLE — LEIPSIG — DRESDEN — AMERICANS — CULM — TCEPLITZ — PRAGUE — HISTORIC NOTICE — POST-TRAVELLING ------ 60 IV. VIENNA — AUSTRIANS AND TURKS — PUBLIC BUILD- INGS — SCHOENBRUNN — PRINCE OF DENMARK — THEATRE — PLAGUE — MUSEUMS THE LATE AND THE PRESENT EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA — PRINCE METTERNICH ------ VI CONTENTS. PAGE 214

CHAPTER V. STEAMERS

— SAND-BANKS — PRESBURGH — KOMORN — GRAN — VISSEGRADE — PEST — MOHACS BATTLE PETERWARDEIN — NEUSATZ — CARLOWITZ — BATTLE OF SALEMKENEN — THE KUPR1GLIS - - -119 VI. SEMLIN — RIVERS — NAVIGATION — BELGRADE — SER- VIA — AUSTRIAN POLICY — -SEMENDRIA — MILITARY FRONTIER — NARROWS OF THE DANUBE — KASAN — ROMAN ROAD — " IRON GATE " — COMPLICATED FRONTIER — ORSOVA ----- 146 VII. ORSOVA — MEHADIA — NEW ORSOVA — THE IRON GATE — SKELA CLADOVA — WIDDIN — PASWAN OGLOU — RAHOVA — NICOPOLIS — SISTOW— RUTSCHUK — SUL- TAN MAHMOUD — MUSTAPHA BAIRACTAR — REVO- LUTIONS ------- 169 VIII GIURGEWO — RASSOWA — CZERNAVODA — CANAL — THE DANUBE — BRAILOW — GALATZ — CONSTITUTIONAL ACT — TULSCHA — SOULINAH — VARNA — THE BOS- PHORUS - - 190 IX. QUARANTINE — GALATA — PERA — TRAVELLERS — COS- TUME — TROOPS — PALACES — BRIDGE — SULTANA MIHIRMAH — PERTEFF PASHA — WASSAF EFFENDI SULTAN MAHMOUD AND MEHEMET ALI CONTENTS. VII PAGE 243 348

CHAPTER X. THE JANISSARIES

— MEHEMET ALI — EGYPTIAN AND TURKISH POWER — RUSSIA — CONSTANTINOPLE XL FORTIFICATIONS OF CONSTANTINOPLE - - 264 XII. DIPLOMATISTS AT CONSTANTINOPLE — COMMERCIAL TREATY BETWEEN ENGLAND AND TURKEY — CHA- RACTERS — VOYAGE TO ODESSA - - - 281 XIII. ODESSA HARBOUR — HONOURS — POLICE OFFICE — QUARANTINE — THE SPOGLIO — CONFINEMENT — RUSSIAN ARMY — DOCUMENTS — RELIGIOUS CERE- MONY — ODESSA ------ 299 XIV. ODESSA — GOVERNORS — SOCIETY — CLIMATE — CON- SUMPTION — RUSSIANS AND GREEKS — SPECU- LATIONS — BRANDY MONOPOLY — GREEK MER- CHANTS — MERINO SHEEP - 324 XV. CORN — CORN-LAWS — FAMINE — PROPRIETORS — SERFS — MERCHANTS — ARTIFICIAL NOBILITY —MILITARY RANK — DEGRADATION — EXILES — CORRUPTION — SECRET POLICE — POLES — THE CIRCASSIANS CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

page GOVERNOR — ROBBERY — POLICE — DEMORALIZATION — BRIGANDAGE — CONSULS — RUSSIAN ARMY — RUSSIAN GENERALS — KHIVA — BOKHARA — COM- MERCE WITH CENTRAL ASIA - - - - 384 XVII. INDIVIDUALS — JOURNALS — GERMAN VILLAGES — COLONIZATION AND EMIGRATION — BALL — LADIES — DECORATIONS — NEW YEAR — REMARKABLE OPERATION — LENT ------ 413 XVIII. PASSPORTS — VOITURIN — JEWS — SOLDIERS — TULT- SCHIN — BRITSHKA — NIGHT TRAVELLING — POST- MASTER — RUSSIAN AND POLISH TOWNS — PEASANTS — SKILFUL DRIVING — RADZIVILOF - - - 431 XIX. SURPRISE — BRODY — CHARACTERISTICS — LEMBERG — PARADE — PODGORZ— CRACOW — POLISH WAR — JEWS — KOSCIUSKO's TUMULUS — THE POLES - 458 XX. CRACOW — BRESLAW — MANUFACTURES — PROVINCIAL PARLIAMENTS — POORHOUSES — BERLIN — CATHOLIC CLERGY — SANS SOUCI —MUSEUM — MAGDEBURGH — HANOVER ----___ 477 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE OF RUSSIA - -

CHAPTER I. STEAM-BOAT HELIGOLAND STADE DUES CUXHAVEN BREMEN-H AFEN BREMEN HANSE TOWNS

COMMERCIAL UNION HANOVER. As the London custom-house clock was striking six on the morning of August 1st, 1838, the paddle-wheels of the " Britannia," bound for Hamburgh, began to revolve. The water was smooth and the wind fair, with a Scotch mist — anglice drizzling rain. In ten minutes more, the steamer was dashing along the noble stream which offers the surest evidence of England's power and prosperity. We soon afterwards passed one of the steam leviathans, the Sirius, then about to make a first run to St. Peters burgh. The towers of Greenwich and the docks of Woolwich were soon also left behind. A stranger ascending the Thames has no occasion to be told that he is approaching the mighty capital of a great people. The crowded river on which he is gliding, bearing contribu- B PASSENGERS. tions from every clime, the towns and villages he passes in rapid succession, the gay villas and green meadows in the intervals, then the dense throng of shipping in the " Pool," the stores, the docks, and hotels on either bank, and lastly the Tower with its sad and stirring recollections, the bridges destined to be monuments of the past when London shall be a gone-by wonder, and the busy hum of the distant million, all make him exclaim, this has no parallel : here Rome and Carthage appear to be combined.

At eight o'clock, the passengers, who had embarked the preceding evening, began to emerge, blinking, from their dark dormitory, and sat down to the well furnished breakfast table presided at by the attentive captain. I recognised an old Malta friend in Captain Walker of the engineers, and hailed his ap pearance with pleasure as a certain relief to the tedium of the passage, for, in addition to friendship in this case, the officers of the engineers and artillery are in general full of information and of the world's usage. We had much pleasant chat of old lang syne in the bright sunny isles of the Mediterranean. Ham burgh traders and Jews formed the greater part of the passengers' list. There were besides a Spanish hidalgo, named Martinez, with three GERMAN LANGUAGE. dark sons, and a fine youth, the brother of Lord Ward, who was proceeding to Germany with Capt. Walker to look at the frauen and learn the unharmonious language, unharmonious even in their pretty mouths.

I respect the Ger man language because it is the root of English, but I consider the child more graceful than the mother, sliding more easily over the tongue, and winding a gentler course through the auri cular labyrinth. I respect the German language on account of the thought and feeling embodied in it, but I look on Shakspeare (so do most Germans) as superior to all that Germany ever produced, while in modern times the laurels of Walter Scott and of Byron are as bright as those of Goethe and of Schiller. I respect the German language because freedom sounded with it her earliest and most constant triumphs, because Luther rescued with it truth from the mazes of perversion, because monarchs learned with it the sublime lesson that to rule tranquilly they must render their people happy; but I still think the tongue is harsh to the ear, and when sung on the stage it seems to jar the orchestra, at least in the estimation of those accustomed to hear the same music accompanying Italian accents.

We saw Heligoland the second morning. As b2 HELIGOLAND. we gazed on the queer-looking spot through a grey mist, we did not envy the honourable situation of its governor.* This fisher's rock is the leading mark for the Elbe ; as such we planted our banner on it, as on nearly every other island in the world, situated in an advan tageous locality. We now only want Candia to make our ocean zone complete with gems. We captured Heligoland in 1809 from the Danes, to whom it had belonged immemorially. The island was valuable to us in the war to harbour smugglers in, and for watching thence the proceedings of the enemy in the river. The possession is rather onerous now on account of the necessity we are under of keeping up a lighthouse for all the world, while none but English vessels pay for the convenience.

This is not as it ought to be, as everybody would perceive were we to put out the light — which of course we could not do. While Heligoland belonged to Denmark, the Hamburghers maintained the light, and in return were allowed to levy a duty on every vessel arriving at their ports. As this was a profitable undertaking, the * Major-General Sir Henry King. The salary is 600 1. a year. The civil establishment of the island consists of a secretary to the governor with a salary of 137/. a-year, and an old woman to watch a buov. HELIGOLAND. senate offered at the general peace to continue to light Heligoland on the same conditions. The English Government, however, very properly declined the proposition, on the consideration that it would ill become England to allow a stranger to light up one of her lighthouses, but proposed at the same time that the senate should levy the dues, as heretofore, on all vessels arriving at Hamburgh ; and as the Heligoland light is al^ European rather than an English one, and is of more service to Ham burgh than to any other place, nothing could be fairer.

Ten foreign ships enter the Elbe for one English ship. The senate refused to collect the dues on our account, and in consequence the burden falls solely on English vessels, from which it is collected by the English consul at Hamburgh. The evasion was conceived in a narrow mercantile spirit unworthy of a free city like Hamburgh. The amount levied on English vessels pays for the expenses of the light : were it divided amongst the vessels of all nations which navigate the Elbe, as justice demands, it would be unfelt. The Hamburghers acted inconsistently with themselves in refusing to collect the said light dues for England, because they collect, the Stade dues which equally belong to a foreign STADE DUTY. state (Hanover) and are of an exceptionable nature. As this duty is beginning to attract notice, a few words about it may not seem out of place.

The right of levying a toll on every vessel ascending the Elbe, in proportion to her value, was granted by the emperors of Germany to certain of the Hanse towns for the improve ment and protection of the navigation of the Elbe ; and Stade, a convenient spot on the left bank, not far from the mouth of the river, was fixed on for the purpose. In the present day, none but fishing boats and other small craft pay the duty at Stade : vessels of burthen proceed on to Hamburgh, and there acquit themselves. When Sweden conquered Bremen, in the seventeenth century, with the adjoining territory on the left bank of the Elbe, she became also receiver of the Stade dues, which were then considered a goodly item of revenue. Sweden, however, did not long enjoy them. England assisted the Elector of Luneburgh to drive out the Swedes, and from that time the produce of the Stade duty has belonged to the Hanoverian government.

All vessels are subject to it, ex cepting those of Denmark and Hamburgh, as belonging to riverain states. Considering the connexion between England and Hanover, the duty has fallen very hard on the English trade , STADE DUTY. and the rigid maintenance of it is a remarkable exemplification of the affection with which the Guelphic race has ever regarded its hereditary dominions. No minister in Engtand would ever interfere with Hanover. The Stade dues have caused much irritation and remonstrance since 1820; yet the ministers of George the Fourth and William the Fourth would not, or could not, induce those monarchs to yield or modify them. Since the separation of Hanover from England the subject has been taken up with earnestness by the English government, and already some modifications have been obtained.

At the same time his Hanoverian Majesty may think it rather hard that he should be required to abandon a duty * which forms an important item in the revenue of a small state, when the wealthy mo narchs of Great Britain and Hanover combined enjoyed it unquestioned for more than a century. He may deem himself entitled to expect a com pensation, for if duration gives a right, no duty rests on a clearer foundation ; it is, perhaps, the most ancient one in Europe. A convenient com pensation, suiting all parties, might be found in the cession of Heligoland to Hanover. In * The Stade dues collected by the Hanoverian government amount to near 30,000 1, a year, of which sum English vessels contribute about 13,000/. STADE DUTY. that case, the Hanoverian government might abandon the Stade duty which is obnoxious and of unequal pressure, and in part compensation thereof exact a light-due on all vessels which enter the Elbe, at which no one could reasonably murmur.

As England has no sovereign rights in the Elbe, the possession of Heligoland will never enable her to make any vessels besides her own pay for the light ; whereas Hanover, being in possession of such rights, would have the power to enforce a just rate on ships of all nations. The Heligolanders would profit greatly by the change of masters : they are peculiarly aggrieved by the Stade dues, from which they were exempted, as subjects of Denmark, till their island became annexed to England. It rarely happens that any people suffers by coming under the English rule, but these poor islanders certainly have done so. They depend principally on fishing for their livelihood. They carry the produce of their nets to Hamburgh, where, owing to the Stade duty, to which they are liable as non-riverains, they have not a fair chance in the market with the Blankenese fishermen who are exempted from the duty as subjects of Denmark.

In addition to this immediate and direct dis advantage which the Heligolander suffers, the detention at Stade to have his cargo entered CUXHAVEN. and rated may cause him to lose a fair wind and tide, seeing at the same time his Danish rivals take advantage of both. An old English gun-brig lies off Stade, and composes the Hanoverian navy. I did not proceed so far up the river, but stopped at Cuxhaven. Having an idea of return ing to England by the same route, I thought that one visit to Hamburgh would suffice. At the moment of landing I found myself embarrassed with a saddle which I had brought for the purpose of riding through European Turkey to Constantinople. I had intended to forward it from Hamburgh to Vienna by wagen, but feared now the loss of it, if I trusted to the captain's eyes to see it booked.

I did not like to increase my impedimenta — (expressive word !) — by taking it with me ; for although a saddle takes up very little room on a horse, it is a most impracticable article in a carriage. From this dilemma one of our fellow-passengers, a merchant of Hamburgh, relieved me, by offering to see it forwarded securely. He kept his word. I found my saddle with his correspondent at Vienna ; but the charges of the worthy trader rather surprised me. The expenses at Hamburgh (how incurred I could not guess, for the duty on goods for consumption is only half per cent., and CUXHAVEN. none is charged on goods for transit) amounted to more than eleven florins, while the cost of carriage to Vienna was less than three florins. Mr. H. Karsten, a merchant of Bremen, changed his intention of returning home by Hamburgh, and offered me his company, which proved very acceptable.

Cuxhaven appeared Turkish in my eyes. The square was little better than a swamp ; the streets were unpaved, and the houses chiefly built of wood. But the place had that in which every Turkish town is deficient, not even excepting Pera, viz. a good inn ; where, while our carriage was preparing, we discussed an excel lent breakfast for the moderate charge of one shilling a-head. We found also a notable bathing establishment, and a ball-room, for the benefit and amusement of the Hamburghers. Many of the citizens, however, as the water at Cux haven is rather brackish, prefer sea-bathing at Nordeneye, a small island belonging to Hanover at the mouth of the Weser, where the air is considered particularly invigorating. A steamer runs, in the season, between Hamburgh and Nordeneye. The Crown Prince of Hanover has frequented Nordeneye each season since his father's accession, and the spot has consequently risen in estimation, though the exe- HANOVER. crable road leading to it from Hanover keeps away many of the Hanoverians who otherwise might go there.

On leaving Cuxhaven we entered immediately on the Hanoverian territory, and traversed a sandy heath in the direction of Bremen-hafen. We were in danger of an upset several times in the so-called road, and were obliged to walk on foot occasionally, in order to lighten our vehicle in the deep sand sodden by rain. Such a country appeared to us scarcely worth acceptance even on absentee terms. At the same time it would be unfair to judge of Hanover by the aspect of the country between Cuxhaven and Bremen. In other parts the soil is fertile, and very pro ductive. Corn is grown in abundance, and there is excellent grazing land. Hanoverian wool is naturally one of the best descriptions after me rino wool ; and if due attention were bestowred on the sheep, they would, I dare say, prove equal to the Saxon breed.

Tobacco and beet root are cultivated in some parts of the kingdom, but not to any extent. There are also mines in the Hartz mountains.* * The mines of the Hartz mountains produce annually from 4 lbs. to 5 lbs. of gold ; 2000 lbs. of silver ; 80,000 quintals of iron ; 3000 quintals of copper ; 50 quintals of tin, besides lead and coal. The iron and coal are of good HANOVER. From all I have heard on the subject, I should say that the natural productions of Hanover are capable of considerable increase, while no country is better situated for manu factures. Placed at the outlets of the Elbe and the Weser (with the latter of which rivers the capital communicates by minor streams) it has all facilities for receiving the raw material and for re-exportation. Labour is cheap in Hanover, and living moderate.

The country being very flat is admirably adapted for railroads.* But the Hanoverians have as yet evinced no disposition to join the progress of the age, which has given quite another character to Prussia, Saxony, and Bavaria : they are pleased with their status quo which partakes of feudalism, and remain satisfied with the moderate returns arising from quality, but not in sufficient quantity for the consumption of the country. The gold and silver extracted from the Hartz mountains are divided between the governments of Hanover and Brunswick. * An English company a few years ago offered to make a railroad at its own expense from Hanover to Harburgh, a distance of 100 miles. The Hanoverian ministers rejected the proposition so truly advantageous to their country. Repenting however of their decision after a while, they en deavoured to re-open communications with the company, but were then told that the money destined for the railroad had been applied to other purposes.

HANOVER. agriculture and grazing. I will not say that they do not trade. They do so, and the Hano verian flag is to be met with in many parts of the world. Their seamen are enterprising and hardy : I remember being at Odessa in winter when ships were in great demand to carry corn to England and the freight in consequence doubled, yet, though upwards of 100 sail of merchantmen of various nations were at Con tantinople, only English and Hanoverian vessels ventured into the dreaded Euxine ; at which our English self-love was highly flattered. In general the Hanoverians are essentially an agricultural people, and it will require a strong impetus to make them enter fairly on the career of manufactures and commerce. A junction with the Prussian Commercial Union would probably have in duced this change, but the connexion between Hanover and the British crown has prevented any idea of this from being entertained, seeing how hostile the "Union " is to British interests.

In imitation of it, Hanover effected a counter or emulous Union with Brunswick, Oldenburgh, Cassel, Hamburgh, Bremen, etc., which states are become as one country to the merchant and traveller. What a superb application of political science ! Could it be applied to the various states COMMERCIAL UNION. of Italy, so separate in their interests, so dis jointed by rivalries, so detached one from the other by dialects, laws, custom-houses, and coin, where all should be as one family, animated by one desire, stimulated by one object — Italian glory, — that beautiful region would soon take her place among the great nations of the earth, and commerce, order, and comparative freedom flourish in graceful union with the arts and sciences, from the Alps to the ruins of Girgenti. We have only to imagine England, Scotland, and Ireland with different rates of duties respectively, separated from each other by barriers and custom-house officers, not to mention the concomitant evils of smuggling and jealously, and the limitation of enterprise, to see the importance of these commercial unions, the plan of which emanated from that modest-looking house on the Linden Strasse, Berlin, distinguished by two sentries at the door, and by flowers in the windows.

Could the good Frede rick William of Prussia have included Hanover in his celebrated and profound political commercial system,* his control, direct or indirect, over * The object of this master-piece of legislation was to convert the rivalry of small states into an union of interests — to make all tend to one grand result, viz. — German im provement. It gives to the smallest state of the Union the COMMERCIAL UNION. 15 the admission of foreign manufactures into all parts of Germany, excepting Austria, would have been complete. Whatever course Hanover might have adopted, or may adopt, must have been, or will be, binding on Brunswick, Bremen, Olden burgh, etc., whether desired by them or not, owing to their localities. Family ties and arrangements, added to juxta-position, make Brunswick side with Hanover.

Bremen and Oldenburgh might prefer the Prussian com mercial union to any other, but the interposition of Hanover between those states and Prussia is a barrier. Hamburgh, I imagine, would object advantages of a large empire, by placing it in the condition of a province of a great kingdom in all that regards com merce and free intercourse with the other parts of the system. It gives them collectively the power of forming equitable commercial arrangements with any large state, for, compri sing twenty-six millions of inhabitants, it can offer recipro city. The impetus given thereby to German manufactures is beginning to lessen the demand for ours in the German markets, and may in time enable the Germans to compete with us elsewhere. The benefit which accrues to the mem bers of the Prussian union is great and certain of increase ; for it conciliates the interests of all parties, from the prince to the peasant.

The union is effecting what Napoleon's Decrees vainly aimed at. It is also the initiative of the day-dream of every German, viz. to form Germany into one nation : similarity of coin is about to follow. COMMERCIAL UNION. to a more intimate union with Prussia, because she has a shrewd idea of the fraternizing wishes of the Prussians in her behalf; but were Han over to join the Prussian " Union" she would be drawn in also. Frankfort endeavoured to keep aloof from that union, but isolated as she was, her opposition proved unavailing, or rather her interests were beginning to suffer materially by holding aloof. Political ascendency will follow the commercial supremacy of Prussia where ever established ; and perhaps this consideration has influenced the decision of the Hanoverian government hitherto.

We trust that it will continue to do so. Owing to it, a considerable portion of Northern Germany ( including an extent of coast and two navigable rivers) is out of the pale of the Prussian Commercial Union, and offers a market where English manufactures fairly compete with the produce of the German loom, besides giving facilities for contraband traffic across the frontiers of Hanover and Bruns wick. Our bad road (a curiosity in western Europe) continued without intermission as far as Bremen hafen. We halted there for a couple of hours to dine, and admire the new evidence of the pro sperity of Bremen. The existence of Bremen hafen (the port of Bremen) dates about nine BREMEN-HAFEN. 17 years : though so recent, the town is solidly built and flourishing : my companion and self can bear witness to the goodness of the hotel, as well as to the excellence of the culinary and vinous department.

The port of Bremen used to be in the Duchy of Oldenburgh, on the opposite side of the Weser ; but owing to disputes between the authorities of Bremen and Oldenburgh, and other inconveniences, the Bremenese negotiated with the government of Hanover for the purchase of a piece of ground, twenty-five miles from Bremen, favourably situated on the same side of the river. The Hanoverian government gave its consent on condition that Hanover should build and garrison a fort, commanding the site, in token of Suzerainty. The land thus ceded is about three miles in circuit. The new town at the period of our visit presented a respectable appearance, and the fort was nearly finished. The Weser is deep at Bremen-hafen : the largest vessels come up to the town. We remarked some fine ships alongside the quay.

The Bremenese build their own vessels, and carrry on an extensive trade. They export English and German manufactures to South America and to the Havanna, and import sugar, coffee, cotton, and tobacco. They import sugar from Rio de Jane iro, coffee from Bahia, cotton from Pernambuco, c COLONIES. tobacco from Cuba and the United States, and some dollars from Mexico. Brazilian sugars and coffees are beginning to exclude English West-Indian produce from the German market ; as slave labour is likely to continue in the Brazils, the productions of that country must under-sell those of the English West Indies,* and will naturally form in a few years the prin cipal foreign supply of Germany. Unfortunately, the continued existence of Brazil in a prosperous commercial state is dependent on forced labour.

Without slaves, Brazil would rapidly decline in wealth and importance ; the holders of her bonds would not receive a dividend much longer. The Brazilian government is aware of this lamentable fact, and therefore "looks through its fingers" — as the Germans say — at a large annual importation of human flesh. Horrid traffic! — more horrid, that the wants of civilization should have caused it ! — still more horrid, that it has flourished in the Christian era more than in an any other period of the world ! * Porto-rico offers an example of the difference of pro duction in favour of the slave-importing colonies. Before the emancipation of our negroes Porto-rico imported suo-ar for home consumption : now it exports largely. COLONIES. My companion had resided three years in Rio de Janeiro, and described it as a very thriving city, with 280,000 inhabitants, and provided with hotels and cafes that would not discredit Paris.

The emperor was, he said, a heavy-browed lad, with the vacant look which has characterized so many of the Braganza family. The emigration of the Braganza family proved a truly fortunate circumstance for Brazil, which thereby emerged at once into a kingdom organized and respectable, without having to go through the preparatory process of anarchy and constitutional experiments. Could the royal family of Spain have equally avoided Napoleon by a removal to America, much misery might have been spared ; for on that event the provinces would necessarily have exchanged their condition of Spanish colonies for that of national existence under their own monarch, who, on returning to Europe, would have left one of his race to rule over the new kingdom. Don Carlos would have thought twice on the subject before leaving so fair an empire to undertake a war of succession in Spain.

With cities like Mexico on the lake, and Lima in the valley, and Quito amidst the eagles' nests of the Andes, he need not have regretted Madrid. English capital would have worked his inexhaustible c COLONIES. mines, and made him one of the richest of monarchs, and Panama might again have become the entrepot for two oceans. But this is a dream. How sad is the contrast ! The Peruvians and Chilians, instead of living in brotherhood, are constantly at war with each other ; the Mexicans surrender their strongest fortress to a French squadron, as weak, comparatively, as the expedition of Cortez against poor Montezuma ; and Don Carlos has lighted the flame of civil war on the Biscayan hills. Chateaubriand, in his "Guerre d'Espagne" (the monument of his vanity), tells us that he wished to convert the revolted Spanish colonies into principalities under Bourbon princes ; but Canning anticipated him by calling them into republican existence.