A Pilgrimage to Rome: containing some account of the high ceremonies, the monastic institutions, the religious services, the sacred relics, the miraculous pictures and the general state of religion in that city

Front matter

Ik viwmmME TO W-M £V* J-J r'. L'liiVR J Ji i J-J J<J 7, iA.'£>. SEEL"EYS: FLEET STREET AND HANOVER- STREET. LONDON. MDCCC2LVIII. A PILGRIMAGE TO HOME: CONTAINING SOME ACCOUNT OF THE HIGH CEREMONIES — THE MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS — THE RELIGIOUS SERVICES — THE SACRED RELICS — THE MIRACULOUS PICTURES — AND THE GENERAL STATE OF RELIGION IN THAT CITY. BY THE REV. M. HOBART SEYMOUR, M.A. Hp&8s- FLEET STREET, and HANOVER STREET ; LONDON. MDCCCXLVITI. LEONARD SEELEY, PRINTER, THAMES DITTON. The Author has greatly to regret that this volume has extended far beyond the limits he desired. And his fear of enlarging it too much has induced him to with hold, at least for the present, much that might be regarded as the most interesting portion of his subject. He was fortunate in forming an intimacy with some of the most influential ecclesiastics at Rome — influential from their station and their learning — and with these he held many conferences and discussions on the practices detailed in this volume ; and on the principal points at issue, between the Churches of England and Rome.

He had carefully written the details of these conversations at the time, but he has been reluctantly compelled to withhold them, as well as papers on the Catacombs, aud on the Church Architecture of Rome, from a fear of extending this volume beyond reasonable limits. Marlborough Buildings, Bath. April 27, 1848. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Departure From Vevay

MOTIVES FOR THIS PILGRIMAGE THE PILGRIMS OF ITALY THE SCENERY OF ST. MAURICE WRETCHED STATE OF THE CANTON VALLAIS THE CAUSES OF THE LATE REVOLUTIONARY MOVEMENT ECCLESIASTICAL EXEMPTION FROM THE CIVIL LAW OPPRESSION OF THE PEASANTRY THE COLLI- SION AT MARTIGNY NO PROTESTANT CONNECTED WITH EITHER PARTY GENERAL CONDITION OF THE CANTON ASCENT OF THE SIMPLON VIEW OF THE ALPS DESCENT BY THE GORGE OF GONDO FIRST VIEW OF ITALY ARRIVAL AT BAVENO LAGO MAGGIORE WITH ITS ISLANDS A SUNDAY AT MILAN THE CA- THEDRAL—RELICS OF CARLO BORROMEO THE BRAZEN SERPENT USES OF THE CATHEDRAL SYSTEM ITS ORIGIN AND DE- CLENSION. ....... page 1

Chapter II

A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TOMB OP ST. AUGUSTINE VISIT TO THE CERTOSA OF PAVIA DESCRIPTION OF THE CONVENT CONFIS- CATION OF ITS PROPERTY SUPPRESSION OF CONVENTS BY ROMAN CATHOLIC GOVERNMENTS IN ITALY AND SPAIN THE CATHEDRAL OF PAVIA THE SHRINE OF AUGUSTINE HIS LIFE AND WRITINGS CONTENTS. VIII DEPARTURE FROM PAVIA THE DOGANO FORFEITURE OF BIBLES THE CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY THE PRESSING OF GRAPES FOR WINE APPROACH TO GENOA THE VILLAS— THE GATE the CITY THE CHURCH OF THE ANNUNZIATA INVITO SACR0 the STATE OF THE ITALIAN CHURCHES THEIR MAG NIFICENCE AND THEIR POVERTY " VESPERS WITH A PROCES- SION." page 65

Chapter III. Departure From Genoa The Road To Chiavari An Evening At

CHIAVARI ARRIVAL AT LUCCA THE SERVICES OF THE CA- THEDRAL MIRACULOUS IMAGE OTHER TREASURES OF THE DUOMO IMAGE OF CHRIST AND PICTURE OF MARY THE STATE OF TUSCANY THE ATTRACTIONS OF FLORENCE BEATO ANGELICO AND PIETRO PERUGINO EFFECT OF " THE RELIGIOUS SCHOOL " ON THE MIND THE TENDENCY TO THE RELIGION OF ROME THE DIFFERENT EFFECTS OF PAINTING AND SCULPTURE IN THIS respect. ....... page 117

Chapter IV. Departure From Florence Campanari And Mrs

HAMILTON GRAY VISIT TO THE ETRUSCAN CITIES THE SEPULCHRES AT CHUSI THE RUINS AND SEPULCHRES OF FALLERI-— THE ETRUS- CAN MUSEUM IN THE VATICAN THE APPROACH TO ROME THE STATE OF THE CAMPAGNA THE ENTRANCE TO THE CITY THE APPEARANCE OF THE STREETS A Day's RAMBLE THE FORUM OF TRAJAN THE CAPITOL THE ROMAN FORUM THE COLISEUM ST. JOHN OF LATERAN ST. MARIA MAGGIORE THE PINCIAN hill — the Vatican. .... page CONTENTS. IX

Chapter V. The Monastic Institutions

THE GREAT NUMBER OF THESE ESTABLISHMENTS THEIR NATURE MISUNDERSTOOD THOSE APPROPRIATED TO THE WEALTHIER CLASSES, THE CREATIONS OF CONVENIENCE RATHER THAN OF RELIGION SIMILARITY TO THE COLLEGIATE LIFE OF ENGLAND MORAL CHARACTER OF THE INMATES THE CONVENTS OF THE MENDICANT AND LOWER ORDERS SIMILARITY TO OVERGROWN ALMS-HOUSES MEANS OF SUPPORT PROPOSED REESTABLISHMENT IN ENGLAND WHETHER CALCULATED TO RELIEVE THE DESTI- TUTION OF THE POOR. NUNNERIES INVARIABLY CALLED MONASTERIES CREATED BY THE SOCIAL STATE OF ITALY THE STATEMENTS OF THEIR PREACHERS MOTIVES THAT LEAD TO THEIR SUPPORT THE INTENTIONS OF PARENTS NUNNERIES AS A PROTECTION FROM THE EVILS OF THE WORLD— AS A PROVISION FOR DAUGHTERS NOMINALLY FREE BUT REALLY RESTRAINED STATE OF FEELING AMONG THE INMATES DEATHS FROM SORROW AND MADNESS THEIR MODE OF LIFE MORAL CHARACTER OF SUCH ESTABLISHMENTS. page 169

Chapter VI

taking the veil. THE ROMANCE CONNECTED WITH NUNNERIES SCENE AT THE TAKING THE WHITE VEIL OR COMMENCING THE NOVICIATE AT THE MONASTERY DELLE TURCH1NE A SECOND INSTANCE OF A VESTIZIONE AT THE MONASTERY OF DOMINICO E SISTO SCENE OF THE PROFESSION OR TAKING THE BLACK VEIL AT THE MO- NASTERY OF ST. JOSEPHINE OF THE ORDER OF ST. THERESA. page X CONTENTS.

Chapter VII. The Jesuits

THE ORDER OF THE JESUITS CONTRASTED WITH THE OTHER ORDERS SUPERIORITY IN LEARNING, AND CHARACTER, AND EX- ERTION — THE GREAT AND MASTER PRINCIPLE OF THE SYSTEM ; UNLIMITED OBEDIENCE CAPACITY FOR GREAT EFFORTS THE CONSTITUTIONS ON THE POINT OF OBEDIENCE CONVERSATION WITH A JESUIT ON THIS SUBJECT CONFIRMATION OF THE WORST THINGS CHARGED AGAINST THEM SINGULAR RULE RESPECTING MASSES EARLY ADMISSION TO THE VOWS THE MORAL CHA- RACTER OF THE JESUITS EXTRACTS FROM THE PAPAL BULLS SUPPRESSING THE ORDER AND AFTERWARDS RESTORING IT. page 247

Chapter VIII. The High Ceremonies The Scenic Or Dramatic Character Of The

HIGH CEREMONIES IGNORANCE OF HOLY SCRIPTURE — CEREMONIES REPRESENTING THE NATIVITY THE ARRIVAL OF THE MAGI THE MANIFESTA- TION TO THE GENTILES THE PURIFICATION OR FEAST OF CAN- DLES PALM SUNDAY THE ENTRANCE INTO JERUSALEM THE SUFFERINGS OF OUR LORD THE WASHING THE FEET AND THE LAST SUPPER THE JUDGMENT HALL OF PILATE THE DEATH AND RESURRECTION OF OUR LORD FORGIVENESS AND BLESSING CONVERSION OF THE JEWS DESCENT OF THE HOLY SPIRIT OR GIFT OF TONGUES THE GATHERING OF THE GENTILES THE EXALTATION OF CHRIST AND TRIUMPH OF THE CHURCH, OR CO- RONATION OF THE VIRGIN. . . , nciqe CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX. The Bambino

: AND THE ADORATION OF THE CROSS. THE BAMBINO OR IMAGE OF CHRIST — ITS MIRACULOUS ORIGIN AND HISTORY AS PUBLISHED AT ROME THE SUPERSTITIOUS BELIEF RESPECTING IT ITS EXHIBITION IN ARA CŒLI THE PREACHING OF A CHILD THE BLESSINGS OF THE BAMBINO STRIKING SCENE DEFENCE OF THE SYSTEM THE CHARGE OF IDOLATRY AN AWFUL ONE THE SISTINE CHAPEL ON GOOD FRIDAY THE ADORATION OF THE CROSS DESCRIBED ITS DETAILS EXAMINED. page 341

Chapter X. The Religious Services

THE NUMBERS ATTENDING THE SERVICES OF THE CHURCH OF ROME AT THE MASS AT THE VESPERS AT SERMONS THE CHA- RACTER OF THEIR DEVOTION AT THE MASS THAT OF THE LOWER ORDERS— THAT OF THE HIGHER ORDERS, CARDINALS, PRIESTS, &C. ITS SINGULAR APPEARANCE ITS DEFENCE BY A PRIEST ABSENCE OF ALL TRUE COMMUNION THE VESPERS THE ROSARY EXPLAINED THE FAVOURITE SERVICES OF THE LOWER ORDERS THE RESPONSES OF THE PEOPLE THE LITANY OF ST. florian. ....... page 377

Chapter XI. Indulgences

INDULGENCES THEIR NATURE MISUNDERSTOOD— THEIR TRUE CHA- RACTER AS EXPLAINED AT ROME ILLUSTRATED BY THE INDUL- GENCES CONNECTED WITH THE HOLY STAIRS BY THOSE OF THE COLISEUM FACILITY OF OBTAINING INDULGENCES IN THE CHURCHES AUTHORITIES FOR THIS THE USES OF INDULGENCES TO THE CHURCH OF ROME THE PRAYERS FOH THE CONVERSION CONTENTS. XII OF ENGLAND THEIR USE IN ADVANCING THE WORSHIP OF ANY SAINT IN PROMOTING CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS IN PROPA GATING ANY PARTICULAR FORM OF WORSHIP SUPERSTITION OR PRAYER INDULGENCES ISSUED BY THE PRESENT POPE FORM OF issuing them. ...... page 399

Chapter XII. Relics

: AND THEIR EXHIBITION. RELICS NATURAL FEELING IN THEIR FAVOUR FIRST CAUTION RES- PECTING THEM CATALOGUE OF THE RELICS OF SANTE CROCE OT THE RELICS OF ST. PRAXEDE THE MANY HEADS AND ARMS ATTRIBUTED TO SOME SAINTS RELICS AT ST. APOLLINAEIO OTHER REMARKABLE RELICS SECOND CAUTION RESPECTING THEM THEIR AUTHENTICITY AND IDENTITY THE CATACOMBS THE BRAZEN SERPENT THE BODIES OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL THE PICTURE OF OUR LORD THE HANDKERCHIEF OF ST. VERO . NICA THE TABLE AT WHICH THE LAST SUPPER WAS EATEN " THE EXHIBITION OF RELICS " AT ST. PETEr's DESCRIBED THE POPE AND CARDINALS PROSTRATE BEFORE THEM " THE EXHIBITION OF RELICS " AT SANTA CROCE, DESCRIBED " THE PROCESSION OF RELICS " AT. ST. GREGORY'S, DESCRIBED VA- RIOUS INSTANCES OF RELICS EXHIBITED FOR WORSHIP, page 439

Chapter XIII. Inscriptions In Churches

CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON THIS SUBJECT INSCRIPTIONS IN THE PROTESTANT CEMETERY IN THE CHURCH OF ST. CARLO BORROMEO IN THE CHURCH OF ST. MARIA LIBERATRICE IN THE ARCHBISHOP'S CHAPEL AT RAVENNA IN THE CHURCH AT ZUG IN THE CHURCH ON THE SITE OF THE TEMPLE OF REMUS IN THE CHURCH OF SCALZI AT VENICE IN THE CHURCH OF ST. MARIA DELLA PACE AT ROME IN THE CATHEDRAL OF LUCCA — in st. peter's at rome. .... page CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XIV. The Uses Of Holy Water

the use of holy water its origin remarkable documents in the churches at rome the baptism of animals st. Anthony's day — curious custom at his church — extraordinary SCENE BAPTISM OF A WHOLE REGIMENT ORIGIN OF THIS CUSTOM STORY FROM ST. JEROME. page 521

Chapter XV. The Use Of Pictures

PICTURES, THE BOOKS OF THE UNLEARNED DETAIL OF THE TEACHING EMBODIED IN THE PICTURES OF THE VATICAN— THE PARALLEL OR RIVAL PICTURES OF CHRIST AND MARY THE EFFECT OF THIS THE ASSUMPTION OF THE VIRGIN MARY HER EXALTATION HER CORON ATION— HER CRUSHING THE SERPENT' S HEAD THE TEACHING OF PICTURES, WITHOUT THE TEACHING OF THE HOLY SCRIPTURES. MIRACULOUS PICTURES — TWO CLASSES OF THESE SOME OF MIRA- CULOUS ORIGIN SOME WITH MIRACULOUS POWERS— INSTANCES OF BOTH KINDS EXPLANATION OF THIS CHARACTERISTIC SUP- POSED TO BE PAINTED BY ST. LUKE THEIR DARK AND BLACK COLOUR TWO REMARKABLE EXAMPLES OF MIRACULOUS PICTURES, THE MADONNA OF BOLOGNA, AND THE MADONNA OF ROME. page 539

Chapter XVI. The Use Of Images

THE PSE OF IMAGES IN RELIGION LESS GENERAL THAN THE USE OF PICTURES 1. THE IMAGE OF PETER THE MANNER OF ITS WORSHIP ITS WORSHIP BY THE POPE, DESCRIBED ITS WORSHIP CONTENTS. XIV BY KINGS, DESCRIBED ITS WORSHIP BY THE PEOPLE, DESCRIBED II. THE IMAGE OF THE VIRGIN ITS APPEARANCE AND VOTIVE OFFERINGS THE MANNER OF ITS WORSHIP III. THE IMAGE OF OUR LORD ITS FORMER WORSHIP AND PRESENT DESERTION IV. THE BAMBINO SCULPTURE CONTRASTED WITH PAINTING IN RE- FERENCE to religion. .... page 583

Chapter XVII. Conclusion

TERMINATION OF OUR PILGRIMAGE THE IMPRESSIONS CREATED BY IT ROMANISM VIEWED AS AN ECLECTIC RELIGION THE CLASSIC MYTHOLOGY ORIGINATING ITS SAINTS AND IMAGES JUDAISM ORI- GINATING ITS PRIESTHOOD, AND ITS CEREMONIES AND SYMBOLS —ORIENTALISM ORIGINATING ITS ASCETISM, CELIBACY, AND MO- N.iSTICISM AN ECLECTIC AND CATHOLIC SYSTEM page

Chapter I. Departure From Vevay

MOTIVES FOR THIS PILGRIMAGE— THE PILGRIMS OF ITALY— THE SCENERY OF ST. MAURICE — WRETCHED STATE OF THE CANTON VALLAIS — THE CAUSES OF THE LATE REVOLUTIONARY MOVEMENT — ECCLESIASTICAL EXEMPTION PROM THE CIVIL LAW — OPPRESSION OF THE PEASANTRY — THE COLLISION AT MARTIGNY— NO PROTESTANT CONNECTED WITH EITHER PARTY — GENERAL CONDITION OF THE CANTON — ASCENT OF THE SIMPLON — VIEW OF THE ALPS — DESCENT BV THE GORGE OF GONDO— FIRST VIEW OF ITALY— ARRIVAL AT BAVENO LAGO MAGGIORE WITH ITS ISLANDS — A SUNDAY AT MILAN — THE CATHEDRAL — RELICS OF CARLO BORROMEO— THE BRAZEN SERPENT — USES OF THE CATHEDRAL SYSTEM — ITS ORIGIN AND DECLENSION. B ■ ': I :.- .. | ' ; We had resided for above a month at Lucerne. During that period we made excur sions to every part of the lake, the vallies, and the passes of the mountains, while at the same time we had opportunity for observing the first movements — the early workings of that fearful p struggle, which on the following year convulsed the religious and political aspect of Lucerne, artd in a measure affected the whole of Switzerland.

After leaving that district, we visited the Oberland ; and after a fortnight's incessant wanderings among lakes and mountains and vallies ; among water-falls, avalanches, and glaciers, and all the varieties of Swiss scenery, we sought the quiet of Vevay, to rest ourselves prepara tory to our passing the Alps and descending into Italy. We remained at Vevay some days. We there learned that the Canton of the Vallies was still uneasy and excited — that the severe lesson that had been taught the people at Martigny some time before, had sup pressed the movement, but had not stifled the feeling or moved the causes that had generated it. And as neither the postmasters nor any one else seemed to think themselves bound to render obedience to a government which could not enforce it, we were most strongly urged by the landlord of our hotel to engage horses from a Vetturino to conduct us over the Simplon.

We were fortunate in meeting with one recommended strongly by a friend of ours whom he had already served, and therefore, after arranging for four good and service able horses, we prepared for our departure. It was a bright and beautiful morning in September, 1844. There was not a cloud in the heavens, but far below there was a dense vapour. It was lighted up by the sun, and seemed to gather round the base of the mountains, and to spread itself like a veil over A riLGRIMAGE TO ROME. the whole surface of the lake. The lake itself was concealed by this vapour, which Lay for some time like a mass of smoke resting on the waters. After a time it gradually rose. The smooth glassy surface began to shew itself beneath the volume of vapour, and as it broke into wreaths, and curled, ascending the mountains, it revealed the lake to the sun, and the sun to the lake, till the one shone in all its brilliance and the other flashed with light as dazzling and intense.

All things gave promise of a fine and glowing day. There was at the same time all the din and bustle of horses, and carriages, and postillions, and porters, and vetturini, going on in the court of our hotel. One carriage has already departed; a second has followed: and now, our own is at the door. In a few moments we were seated, our servants mounted, the word given, the farewell ut tered, and we departed from Vevay. We soon emerged from the narrow streets, and breathed the fresh air of the mountains. The horses quickened their pace as if invigorated by the purer atmosphere. The road lay along the margin of the lake ; we soon passed the quiet and sequestered village of Montreux, and the retired and charming village of Clarens. We had been there a few evenings before, and had been wandering about its quiet and romantic church-yard.

It is beautifully situated : one can look out from beneath its trees and from among its graves, as from some natural terrace, upon one of the finest scenes in Switzerland. It is at a considerable height up the side of the mountains. The broad and glassy lake — the towering mountains — the distant villages — the far-stretching valley of the Rhone — the snowy peaks of the Dent de Midi shooting into the skies, — all these as seen from amidst the solemn associations of the church and the grave — as seen over vineyards purple with clustering grapes — as seen till the gathering twilight gave a deeper and a darker coloring to all — formed one of the most charming and fascinating views we had beheld. We now passed rapidly beneath the village, and the towers of Chillon were immediately be fore us. This spot, too, we had already visited, and like other travellers, had explored its prisons and spelled the names of the great and the little, of the wise and the foolish, so inextricably blended together upon the walls.

We now soon left Chillon behind us, and still passed on along the edge of the lake. Far away across its waters was seen the village of Meillerie, and straight before us lay the village of Villeneuve, and still we pressed on, till the Lake of Geneva was behind us and the valley of the Rhone before us. The sun was now rising in its strength above the mountains. The skies were perfectly cloudless, and of a deep and beautiful blue, giving promise of heat. The lake was smooth as a mirror, and reflected every cottage and tree and rock of the mountains that bounded its waters, so vividly, that the line between land and water was scarcely discernible. A few boats were seen, with oars flashing like silver, as they moved along its surface; and there was one little skiff with its white sail, in vain endeavouring to catch a breath of wind ; it was perfectly motionless.

There was not a breath moving on the waters, and not a solitary ripple broke along the shore as we were passing, and yet there was an air fresh and cool from the mountains, and we breathed it freely, but it seemed not to move so low as to touch the waters. Already, however, the lake is behind us, the valley before us, and we have commenced our Pilgrimage to Rome. The motive to this Pilgrimage was — Religion. Whe ther for evil or for good, religion has been the master motive of many a pilgrimage, alike with the Mahomedan, the Jew, and the Christian : Mecca has long asserted a rivalry with Jerusalem, and the city of Rome — " the Eternal City " — has opened her gates to as mighty a stream of the pilgrims of religion, as both Mecca and Jerusalem combined. Many are those, who, in times past, with eschalop-shell and pilgrim-staff, have crossed the snowy Alps, and have trode their weary way through myrtled paths, and flowery fields, and purpling vineyards, till their wayworn limbs reclined in the Holy City, and their knees bent at " the shrine of the Apostles ;" and have bowed their heads and thanked their God for the indulgences and other privileges awarded to so meri torious a pilgrimage.

And the motive to all was Re ligion : — whether for evil or for good, the intention of the pilgrim, the motive to the pilgrimage, was asso ciated with Religion. Yet others there are now, who, with different views, are year by year pouring in long-continued streams from the Alpine passes, and sweeping through the beautiful plains and beneath the blue skies of Italy, to enjoy its glorious climate, to gaze on its lovely scenes, and to indulge their taste among the sculpture, the paintings, the antiquities, and all the precious mementos of classic ages and Mediæval times. Their young aspirations soar, and their young hearts bound at the prospect before them. They long to tread the scenes where Sylla, Marius, Cato, Pompey, Cæsar walked and swayed the world ; to stand where the Gracchi wielded the fierce democracy, and Cicero charmed a listening senate; to look on that Capitol where the conquerors of the nations held their councils — that Coliseum where thou sands held their fearful and bloody revels — that palace of the Cæsars, where lived the mightiest of men.

They long to tread those classic spots, and to pass through those historic scenes that have been graven upon their hearts by the studies of youth. And onward they speed their way, from the loftiest Alps to the city of Rome, to fulfil their pilgrimage of intellectual pleasure. It would be affectation in me to say, that nothing of all this mingled with my motives. The hope of looking on those scenes of classic memory, and the desire of seeing the innumerable objects of art, and of standing amidst the historic ruins of the past, not only mingled with, but constituted no inconsiderable element in, the motives that led to my pilgrimage. I should write myself tasteless if it had been otherwise, and I will therefore at once confess, that with me as with others, the desire to visit Genoa and Venice, Florence and Naples — to see the remains of ancient Rome, and the relics of the more ancient Etruria, were mingled with the hopes and wishes that influenced my movements ; but still the main idea that occupied my mind, and formed my master-motive was — Religion.

A great religious strife has commenced in England, and the champions on both sides of the contest, are men cherished in the bosom of the English Church. One of the parties in this struggle loves to appeal to the associations of the past, and especially to those which are connected with the history of the Ancient Church. The appeal, though at first made to the apostolic ages, has been transferred from them, and from the primitive ages of the Church, or days of the early Fathers, to the more valued records of a later age ; and every reference in the present phase ofthe controversy, points to the monu ments of the religion of Mediæval Europe. All the an cient architecture that remains to us in England, was the creation of the middle ages ; and those only — the gothic churches — which belong to the middle ages, and which seem almost our only relics of the past, are admired, praised, venerated.

And as all their associations are with a Roman ritual, a Roman priesthood, and a Roman religion — as they were raised and arranged, in their chief details, to suit the ecclesiastical system of Rome, so they seem to some minds, that are in fluenced by association, to be naked and effete without that system to which they were devoted. And this had led some persons to sigh for our reconciliation to Rome, or at least to lament the necessity for our pre sent separation. It is in somewhat the same way, that a taste for music has influenced others to a similar inclination. The Gregorian chants — the noble masses of Mozart and others — indeed, the finest music we possess, is associated with the ceremonies, the services, and the sacraments of the Roman religion. There are many persons, lovers of music, who feel a religious repugnance to frequent the opera, or such places of musical enter tainment, and who yet sigh for some opportunity of hearing the master-pieces of the art.

It is this that has led so many to love the services of our cathedrals ;■• at tending them less to hear the minister than to hear the musician, and less to worship God than to admire the music. Such persons persuade themselves that a musical service is a devotional service, and that this devotion is in proportion to the quantity and quality of the music. The result is, that the transition to the Roman service, in which all is ceremony, and in which all may be music, soon becomes an easy and natural transition, with the lovers of sacred harmony. A taste for painting has naturally produced a similar effect. In all the greatest triumphs of the pencil, it has been consecrated to the church of Rome. Her saints, her monks, her nuns, her martyrs, her popes, are ever foremost on the canvas. The greatest masters, Beato Angelico, Perugino, Raphael, &c. lived before the light of the Reformation was fully developed, and as all the subjects they painted were those of a mediæval religion, so, as often as they are seen, they suggest the ideas of that mediæval religion : and those alone who have experienced it, can form an adequate conception of the power of such associations on the minds of those who have a real feeling for painting.

It is in very much the same process, that a taste for the romances and legends of the middle ages, is now acting on the minds of many. They recal the memories of knights devoting themselves to the cloister to atone for the past, and of ladies retiring among the sisters of some nunnery to weep over disappointed love; — of kings and queens founding such establishments in order to atone for the sins of the palace by the ceremo nies ofthe cloister; — and all clothed in some vestments of romance, which will ever exert an influence on the minds of those whose temperaments and tastes are of that peculiar tendency. These all are giving their influence to the present movement, and armed with all these weapons, one of the two great parties in the religious strife of the day, enters on the conflict. Antagonist to this is a far different spirit.

It seems in its nature simplicity itself, existing without much de tail, or variety of ceremonial, or pageantry, or display, and appearing to live and to derive all its power from an innate divinity that seems to possess it. It is not altogether without its associations, but they are such as are little calculated to impress the tastes, or work on the sympathies of the romantic, the imaginative, or the young. It demands a sterner separation from the world, and a purer holiness to the Lord, than suits the tendencies of some. But it has its associations with the life of Jesus Christ — with the scenes among which he walked — with the words he spake — with the sorrows he felt— the tears that he wept — the sufferings he endured — and the death he died. And it seems to live on that deep and enduring love, that brought him from the fields of heaven, to tread our fallen world, and to feed upon all the precious promises to which his lip gave utterance, and upon all the purposes of mercy to which his mission witnesses.

And all this has a power to subdue, and soften, and melt the heart, and win it to holiness, though perhaps possessing little to captivate the natural taste. It has associations too with those times when Mediæval darkness was scattered by the discovery of the art of printing — by the consequent and natural revival of literature — by the spread of know ledge, and by the printing, circulating, and reading of the Holy Scriptures. Breaking forth upon the darkness and ignorance of the middle ages, like a sun bursting upon a long-slumbering world, the discovery of printing, the revival of literature, and the circulation of the scrip tures, asserted a place for themselves in the history of human enlightenment, and have stamped the era of the Reformation of religion, as, next to that of the appearing of the Messiah, the most truly glorious in the records of our race.

And all this is so intimately associated with the spirit or principle we are describing, that it invests it with much of enlightened interest, There are other associations too, though of a sadder and a darker kind, connected with those holy men, who, in the strength of their deep convictions, renounced all the charms of life, and all the ambition of the world, to follow the steps of their Saviour, and to traverse the world as the heralds of salvation ; and who, borne upwards and onwards in their holy career, by a power that belonged not to man, withstood a world in arms, and bore with meekness the chains of the prison-house, and embraced with rejoicing the flames of martyrdom. It is well and merciful that God has held back these sterner trials from our feebler Christianity, but the memories of these holy men, still faithful in their shrouds of flame — faithful to the word of scripture — faithful to the cause of Christ — may well be cherished in our hearts, and be felt as an as sociation of surpassing interest, to those who possess that light of which the dying martyr proclaimed " it should never be extinguished in England."

These, it is true, are thrilling associations, and many more might be added; but they are associations appealing to the judg ment rather than to the imagination, and to the feelings rather than to the taste. The great principle with which they are connected, is too much fraught with deep and holy lessons of piety and purity, assailing with unflinching sternness the sins of our nature, humbling and narrowing our natural self-love, and ever pointing to a holiness almost beyond human aspiring, to be popular with the masses of mankind. It deals with the realities of the present, rather than with the dreams of the past, and therefore possesses, far less than its an tagonist principle, the elements and associations that please the imagination and the taste. It relies on the deductions of divine truth, rather than on the creations of human poetry ; — it is the religion of reality rather than the religion of taste.

These are the two rival principles in conflict at the present day within the bosom of the Church of Eng land. The spirit of Romanism desires to mould us after the model of the middle ages. The spirit of Protest antism would lead us to conform to the simplicity of the Holy Scriptures. The former revels among the legends of the Breviary ; the latter loves to dwell upon the words of Scripture. One would throw the shackles of authority over the mind, and bring it back to the state and subjection of the past. The other would give the fullest freedom, and beckon the mind onwards to the future. One regards every fresh ray of light as an in novation ; the other hails it as a means of newer dis coveries. One emphatically retards advancement ; the other earnestly promotes it. And so too with their respective votaries; — learning, and piety, and zeal, and the best intentions may belong to both, but one is de termined by his taste, the other by his judgment.

One lives in a reverie, and the other in a reality. This conflict has been disturbing the peace of the Church of England for several years. It has induced a state of things fraught with both difficulty and danger, and offering special temptations to persons of peculiar tendencies. And accordingly among the members of the Church of England, there has arisen within the last few years, a weary and unsettled spirit — a restless and wandering spirit. It seems to occupy itself in some vague and mystic dream of the imagination, and the minds of its victims seem unaccountably filled and swayed, by yearnings for the realization of some mental conception — some idea — some phantasy, which, from the very nature of things, is incapable of reality. Like those who sigh for the visitings of the shade of some departed friend, they sigh for that which is incapable of accomplishment.