A Narrative of a Voyage to Surinam; of a residence there during 1805, 1806 and 1807, and of the author's return to Europe by the way of North America

Front matter

BOOKBINDING LEATHER COMMITTEE Long period exposure test Code No /.3..@...7~ If at any time the pressmark of this volume is changed, the fact should be recorded in the reference volume W.P. 5691. 1ST a ft m a tJi tI OF jY x^xxx^ i^x9rC73x atfiA<7 Xw tw^riM*. se (X^Xw^; rv Am A NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO SURINAM; OF A RESIDENCE THERE DURING 1805, 1806, AND 1807; AND OF THE AUTHOR'S RETURN TO EUROPE BY THE WAY OF NORTH AMERICA. BY BARON ALBERT VON SACK, CHAMBERLAIN TO HIS PRUSSIAN MAJESTY. LONDON: FEINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL, BY wV BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND-HOW, ST. JAMEs's. 1810.

Preface

. J. h e great difficulty with which a distant correspondence is carried on during war, made the Author reserve duplicates of all his Letters, that in case of any accidents happening to the originals, he might have the pleasure of delivering the copiETtO"trr_j^rtfhlf-ronlhis return to Europe. But on his arrival at Lisbon, the events which then took place in the Peninsula, prevented his.iproceeding to Germany by land. This difficulty was not removed after he came to England ; the inter ruption of its commercial relations with the Continent presented insuper able obstacles in the way of his intended voyage to his native country. During a severe indisposition, and to employ his leisure hours in im proving himself in the English language, he began to translate the following Letters from the German, in which they were originally written.

His manuscript having been read by some esteemed friends, their favourable judgment induced him to have the whole revised, and cleared of the most striking inaccuracies of language, to which a foreigner is naturally liable. That part of the work in which he gives his opinion frankly on the situation of the Colonies, with regard to the present and future supply of negroes for their cultivation, may seem to require a particular explana tion. In describing the settlements where he resided, it was natural, and indeed unavoidable, that some reflections would occur upon a subject which is of so much importance to the Colonies, and which has occasioned so much speculation in Europe. The Author is aware how general a desire has been manifested to new-model the laws of the Colonies ; and it appeared to him that no good effect could be expected from an alteration

PREFACE.

. formed on mere theoretical principles, and without consulting those who, from their situation and employments, were best acquainted with the tempers, disposition, and prevailing passions of the present generation of the negroes. Benevolence, operating at a great distance from the scene of observation, naturally prompts the measures most congenial to its feelings ; and to enforce their immediate adoption, either represents evils which do not exist, or are much exaggerated, and suggests schemes of improvement, which the present condition of the Colonies render difficult for a speedy, and at the same time, beneficial execution. In declaring his sentiments on these matters when writing a series of familiar letters, which were intended only for the perusal of his most intimate friends, residing in the interior of Europe, the Author was actuated by no other motives than an impartial opinion: he wrote as observation directed ; and of course wished to communicate his ideas on an important subject to those who might have read and heard much upon it, but without having had any knowledge of it from men who were personally acquainted with the Colonies.

How his remarks will be received by the Public he cannot well conjecture ; but since the tide of opinion has entirely, as yet, gone in a quite different channel, some opposition may justly be expected. The personal effects of this, as far as relates to debates in conversation, might easily have been avoided, by the publication of the work without a name ; but he has not adopted this method, from a consideration ofthe impropriety of giving an account ofa distant country on an anonymous authority. The abolition ofthe Slave Trade has been determined upon by the Par liament of Great Britain : if it should hereafter be found, on a fair trial, that the Africans themselves do not reap such advantages from it as were at first expected, and if at the same time experience should shew that the Colonies are not yet come to such a state as to do without new recruits of labourers, perhaps the same legislature may be willing to institute some other regulations for the colonial supply and benefit: should that be the case, the Author has suggested a few ideas towards a plan for obtaining, whilst the necessity for them may exist, a number of negroes from Africa, without exposing them to the cruel treatment which disgraced the traffic when it was legally allowed. And here it deserves consideration, that should the supply from Africa continue to be entirely prohibited, a

PREFACE.

. V contraband trade will probably be carried on, in which the negroes no doubt will be greater sufferers than before the abolition took place, and certainly more so than if some proper restraints and modifications are adopted for its regulation. The Author has omitted giving an account of the prevailing diseases at Surinam, as a mere enumeration of those complaints must be uninteresting to the reader, if unaccompanied by scientific observations and descriptions, for which the Author professes his incapacity. The principal object intended in the publication of these Letters is to shew, by facts, that the climate of Surinam is not so unhealthy as it has been generally thought and represented in Europe, and that the mortality which prevails so much among new-comers, is chiefly to be attributed to their own imprudent manner of living.

He has himself known many of those who might have prolonged their days, and enjoyed good health, if they had regulated their mode of life with a due regard to the climate. On this important subject some observations are here offered for the use of those who visit the Tropics ; and if this part of his Work should prove beneficial to any, the Author will think himself sufficiently rewarded, The Author has corrected, as much as he was able to do, some errors given in the preceding accounts of Surinam ; and he will be very thank ful to those who will do the same with his Work. He apologizes for having trespassed so much upon the patience of the reader; and he will here conclude with saying, that as it is his design to transmit copies of this Work to Surinam, the West Indies, and the United States, the remarks with which he may be favoured, if found sufficiently important and interesting, shall be given to the public* CONTENTS.

Letter I

The Author's Reason for taking a Voyage to the Tropies, and particularly to Surinam. - - ___._. page 1

Letter II

Departure from Madeira. — At Sea. — The pleasure of a Passage in the Tropics. — On the Dolphin of the Ancients.— On the Shark. — The Thrasher. — The Lightning of the Sea Water. — The Appearance of the Coast of Guiana. — Two Privateers in sight. — The Jason attacked, — Captured, and carried into Martinico. - 4

Letter III

A Description of the Environs of St. Pierre. — Principal Productions. — Character and Manners of the Inhabitants. — Island much infested by Serpents. — A proposition to destroy them. — The Author's Illness and recovery. — Departure from the Island. — Passage to St. Lucia. — Sickly Situation of Morne Fortunee. — Departure from St. Lucia. — Passage to Barbadoes. — Description of Bridge Town. — Happy meeting with Captain W.— A Tour to Speight's Town.— Visit to Mr. W. C— A useful Cotton Mill. — An improvement of a Sugar Mill. — The first Introduction of the Levant (white) Fig-tree into Barbadoes. — Scenery on the Road. — The Mode of manuring the Fields. — Happy situation of the Countiy in respect of Provisions. — On the Barbadoes Tar. — Thc Nourishment of the Negroes. — The apparent good Treatment of them in this Island. — Arrival of the English Squadron. — Departure from Barbadoes. - - - - - 21

Letter IV

Departure from Barbadoes. — A Chase. — Arrival at the Coast of Guiana. — The River Surinam. — Description of the Town of Paramaribo. 33

Letter V

A Description of the Country in the Vicinity of Paramaribo. — The public Walk of Tamarind Trees. — The Wilderness and the Forest near the Town. - 43

Letter VI

A Tour to the Commewyne. — Description of the Upper Commewyne and Cottica Rivers. — A Cotton Plantation. — The proper Situation for a plentiful Produce of Cotton, — sometimes fails by the Devastation ofan Insect. — A Method how it might CONTENTS. vm be prevented. — The Ground not favourable for the growth of Vegetables for the Subsistence of the Negroes. — The Means used as a Substitute. — The Canal of the Matopica River; — an intended Alteration of its present Communication with the Sea. — Return to Paramaribo by the Hoerhelena Creek. — Great Hospitality of the Inhabitants of this Countiy. - - page 50

Letter VII

Celebration ofthe First Day of ihe New Year at Paramaribo. — Militia ofthe Colony — Festivals of the Negroes. — The Conclusion of the Day. - - 6l

Letter VIII

First Establishment of the Colony of Surinam. — Difference between the East India and the West India Commerce. — Acquisition of this Colony by the Dutch. — Different Changes of Government. — Its First Prosperity. — Stagnation and Decline. — Its Present Government. — Mode of conveying Letters from Europe to Surinam, _-_...- _ 64

Letter IX

Journey to Bluebergh — Canal for a Communication between the Surinam and the Saramacca. — Plantations on the latter River. — Land on the Banks of the River Surinam. — Method used in this Colony for the recovering exhausted Land. — Cultivation of Coffee — of Sugar — the Cocoa Tree. — Imitation of Chocolate made from other Kinds of Fruits. — Arrival at the Plantation Bluebergh. — Search for Mines. — Treatment of the Negroes. — Behaviour ofa good Director. — Military Post Victoria. — Plantation l'Hermitage. — Visit to the Village of the Bush Negroes.—- Description of them. — Invitation to this People for a Dance at 1' Hermitage, — Method of dancing. — Musical Instruments. — Conclusion of the Ball. — Departure from l'Hermitage. — Return toVictoria and Bluebergh. — Plantation of Ranecour. — A new Species of Coffee Tree indigenous to South America. — Return to Worlsly Jacob. — Plantation of Aucka, where Peace was concluded with the Bush Negroes. — The Origin of those Negroes at Surinam. — Ravages committed by them in this Colony. — On the Security of this Country from these Negroes. — How to make the Indians more useful to the Colony. — The Arrawouke Indians. — their Villages Houses — Furniture. — Attachment to their Wives and Children. — An improved Indian House. — General Character of the Arrawouke Nation. — Their good Dispo sition — Faults. — Capable of Civilization above other Indians. — The Village called Jews Savannah — Description of this Place — of the People. — Visit to two Indian Villages, — two Plantations, Toledo and la Recontre. — Great Hospitality of the Planters of Surinam. — Return to Paramaribo. •« 71 CONTENTS. IX

Letter X

On the Soil of Surinam. — A new Attempt to cultivate the Land by European Labourers. — The Method of cultivating it by Negroes. — How to render the Labour to them more easy. — Regulations for their Work — Meals — and Rest. — Their Provisions at the Plantations. — Attention paid them when sick. — Their Dress, &c. — Dances allowed them. — Correction. — Newly arrived Negroes trained to Arms. — Reflection on the severe Execution of the Negroes. — The increase of Creoles or Natives at Surinam. — Preference given them to the Negroes brought from Africa, and Encouragement to those who bring up Childreu. — Care of pregnant Negroes, and of both Sexes when old. — Happiness of the Negroes depends on the Master's temper. — Proposal for increasing it. - - . - 99

Letter XI

Customs of the Inhabitants of Paramaribo. — Their general Occupations. — People of Colour. — Free Negroes. — The Slaves. — Indians. — Principal Language spoken in this Colony. - - - - - - - 111

Letter XII

The Climate of Surinam. — General Opinion respecting it. — Dexterity of the Indians in Hunting. — The Wet Season. — Climate of Paramaribo respecting Health. — How to improve it. __. - - _ - _ lig

Letter XIII

On the Effect of the Climate of Surinam on different Constitutions. — The best Method to Preserve Life and Health. — Consequences of extravagant Living and Temperance. — Instances of Longevity in this Colony. — The Climate particularly favourable to Females.— How the Climate acts on Persons of different Countries. 126

Letter XIV

The Climate of Surinam as affecting the Health of Sailors and Soldiers. — A Proposal for obtaining Recruits who are well inured to the Climate. — On Captain Stedman's Plan of Reform " for the Increase of Population and universal Happiness." 134

Letter XVI

On Natural History in general. — How to secure the Houses in Surinam from Insects —On the large White Caterpillar of Surinam. — Curious Spider, — Snakes and Serpents. — The Rattle Snake. — Frog with a Tail. — American Cameleon or Agamma of Surinam. —Argus Collibri, a fine Species of Humming Bird. — Different singing Birds. — On the Rooks of Surinam. — Parrots and Paroquet. — Little Grass Paroquet. — Quadrupeds. — The Sloth. — Little Ant-eater. — Paca and Cavey. — Quadrumanes. - - - CONTENTS. X

Letter XVII

Departure from Surinam.— Voyage. — Arrival at Providence, in the United States. — Tour to Boston, and return to Providence.— New York. — Philadelphia. — Baltimore. — City of Washington. — Alexandria. — Mount Vernon. — Return to Philadelphia, and to New York. — On the Yellow Fever. — The National Character of the Inhabitants of the United States. — Departure for Europe. — Arrival at Lisbon. : - - - - - 177

Appendix

. Plants, 8ic. of Surinam. Animals. 225 241 Birds. 256 Reptiles and Amphibious Animals. Fishes. 268 274 Insects 276 ERRATA. Page Line 32 9 after an<f the, read principal. 54 3 for worse, read less. 57 28 for Otaheite, read Island of Timor. 59 7 of note, for root, read stem. 6*0 4 for right, read left. 68 14 for to return, read reside in Europe. 82 6 after canes, read &c. 101 10 for by hooks, read by a hoe. 130 14 after water, read sugar. 184 13 for a mile, read three quarters ofa mile. 233 14 for about, read more than. 239 27 for no, read to. Note, whenever in the Appendix is quoted the 17th Letter, read the l6th. EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. THE FRONTISPIECE represents a Tropic-bird and a Dolphin chasing a Flying-fish, which is distinguished from the common species, by having two lateral fins, in form of wings ; it was caught on board the Jason, and is in the possession of the Author.

The species is called by Dr . Block, Exocœtus exiliens. THE VIGNETTE IN THE TITLE PAGE represents a Barge, such as is used for travelling at Surinam. On the roof is seated a Female Negro-Servant, and under a Banana Tree is standing an Indian family of the Arrawoukee nation. The Men frequently hang over their shoulders a piece of calico when they come to Paramaribo ; but the cap, which is in general made of the long feathers of the Macaw-bird, is only worn at particular festivals ; the Female Indian is in her usual dress. In the distance are Coffee Trees and Sugar-canes. The fore ground is made up of a branch of the Coffee Tree, and of the Cotton Bush, together with the Anana or Pine Apple, and the Water-melon. The Sketch of Surinam. - - - to face page 1 Plate III. represents a proposed easy method for the Negroes to sow cotton, .101 a smm£(&m or 3wmn.m&m , A*v/tc*ft*tff///e{f,-e/i /itw /fy _ luifi cf NARRATIVE, be. ■ i — — in i ■ —^— — — ■ _____________ ,n" ~___^^— »^—^— m^mmm

Letter I

The Authors Reason for taking a Voyage to the Tropics, and particularly to Surinam. My Dear Sir, Funchal, Madeira, Decembers, 1804- Your very obliging letter, which I received by the favour of Mr. P. gave me the greatest satisfaction, as it contained the pleasing intelligence of your continuing to improve in your health, which I hope your journey to the sea coast will fully restore. Mr. P. is already introduced to Mr. W. Gordon and Mr. J. Gordon, who are not only eminent in commercial business, but also merit particular regard for their excellent principles, and who soon will make him acquainted with the best societies in this hospitable island : however, I shall say nothing of Madeira, as you will un doubtedly have a complete account of this place from Mr. P. and therefore I proceed to answer your kind letter.

You declare that you are surprised to hear I intend making a voyage to Surinam ; and you are of opinion, if I think to increase my fortune there, it is not in the present crisis of affairs a proper time to expect much success. I agree perfectly with you ; yet, in going to Surinam, I hope to gain what is preferable to the greatest fortune, nay to life itself — the recovery of my health. B In reality, this voyage to the Tropics is undertaken after the consultation of very eminent physicians, who have advised me, if the winter season in Madeira should not agree so well with me as the summer, to proceed lo some country nearer to the Line. Although the climate is very pleasant for people in good health, yet the winds are often too keen for invalids; and as I have now staid in this island two years, and ahvays in thc winter suffered from the pulmonic complaint nearly as much as during my travels and residence in the South of Europe, I am resolved to pursue the medical recommendation, though it is certainly very unpleasant to be obliged to undertake such a distant voyage, in an indifferent state of health, during a war, which I had hoped would have been ter minated by the mediation of the King of Prussia, who by his estimable private character is in the confidence of the other Euro pean powers.

In this voyage to the Tropics, the other additional inducements which determine me in the choice of going to Surinam, I intend to relate to you more fully on some future occasion, and therefore shall here only add, that during my stay in that country, I may attain, by the particular attention I am accustomed to pay, where ever I am, to the influence of the climate, and the necessary mode of living, some knowledge that may become useful to other new comers, among whom I expect to have the pleasure of seeing many of my own countrymen, and even, perhaps, some of my most ancient acquaintances. Although there can be no doubt that there are good medical men at Surinam, yet the presence ofa friend can sometimes have a still better effect in persuading a stranger to avoid evils in an unguarded moment, particularly in such a climate, where, when once a dis temper is caught, the most skilful physicians are often unable to stop its rapid progress, and prevent its becoming fatal.

At Madeira, the months of February and March are particularly changeable in the weather, and subject to most piercing winds, it will therefore be fortunate for me if I can leave this island before that time ; and I flatter myself that, after this explanation, you will no longer disapprove of my design in residing for some time at Surinam. Farewell.

Letter II

Departure from Madeira.— At Sea .—The pleasure ofa Passage in the Tropics On the Dolphin of the Ancients — On the Shark. — The Thrasher.— The Lightning of the Sea Water. — The Appearance of the Coast of Guyana. — Two Privateers in sight. — The Jason attacked. — Captured, and carried into Martinico. My Dear Sir, Funchal, Jan. 23, 1805. 1 have taken my place for the passage to Surinam in the Jason, Captain Martin ; she is a ship of ihree hundred tons burthen, and her cargo consists of Madeira wine. There is no other passenger than myself, and the Captain has called on me to-day requesting that I would sleep on board his ship to-night, as he expects to sail early to-morrow morning ; thus then I am about to write my last adieu to you from this island ; but as the departure in sea voyages is always very uncertain, I intend leaving an open letter for you at one ofthe gentlemen's houses here, with a request that he will add in a post script the time of our sailing, and then forward the letter to you by the first opportunity ; but should any accident prevent it, I hope the one which I am actually writing will give you at once my pro ceedings from the time of leaving this island till my arrival in the Tropics.

Agreeably to your desire I will send you my journal, which will only consist of a few notes, as the keeping a minute account ofa voyage can only be interesting to seafaring persons. There is indeed little that can be said to merit attention from others, where, for so many weeks, the passenger is confined in an incessant circle of the fluid : and for the purpose of trying experiments at sea, there are no proper instruments to be obtained at Madeira. If you therefore find this abridgment little interesting, you will have reason to thank me for saving you the lime and trouble of reading the whole. Jan. 24th. — The Captain has been disappointed in his intention of sailing to-day. A Spanish ship appeared in sight off the island, on which account the Governor would not allow the Jason, which is an armed vessel, to leave the road until the Spaniard was quite out of her reach.

This circumstance is not pleasant to me, as all my things have been sent on board. However, I must say that A. de S. F. is in the right ; he discharges his public trust as Governor, with as much justice and dignity, as he is respectable in his private life, and he must be considered as a great credit to the Portugueze nation. Jan. 25th. At sea — We left Madeira this morning without any more delay, when the Captain had received permission to sail, with the wind at N. W. and the weather fair. The island, with its gradually rising mountains, presented a most pleasing prospect. In the town of Funchal the sun was shining brightly on the antique castle, whilst the whole picture was finely shaded by some clouds hovering over the magnificent church on the top ofthe mountain. Jan. 26th. — The wind coming more to the northward, and blowing fresh all night, we could see no more of Madeira this morning.

A brig called the Somerset keeps us company for mutual defence. The two captains have just been consulting together to keep further off from the Canary Islands, for fear of falling in with the privateers which cruise in that quarter, and therefore I have no hope of seeing the majestic Peak of Teneriffe. Feb. 1st. — Since our passing the twentieth degree of North latitude, we enjoy the benefit of the constant trade wind. The sails require no labour in trimming, and the mariners employ their time in the differentoccupations of mechanics ; meantime, by the arrangements that are now made with our fresh provisions and our live stock, the deck has the appearance of a country market, with which cheerful sight even the captain and the crew seem much pleased. Feb. 5th. — Several dolphins are following our ship ; their brilliant colours of green, gold, and purple, shine more bright when set off by the ultramarine colour with which this part of the sea is tinctured.

That species of the porpoise, which was ealled by the ancients a dolphin, is not of such a splendid appearance; and what procured it this high reputation of being supposed willing and capable of saving the human species when a ship is foundering at sea, now only remains a matter of conjecture. Perhaps a lover, — in those times, — seeing his fair companion trem bling at his side in a distressing voyage, may have told her, that if any accident should happen to their ship, those dolphins which they saw swiftly sporting round them in the waves, and whose plaintive voice they had often heard,* would compassionate their condition, and soon carry them to a happy shore, — the poets after this made use of the same fiction to save their heroes from the greatest perils at sea. Feb. 9th. — You know by your own experience what pleasure is felt in reading Ancient History on the very spot where the actions related actually occurred, — not less pleasure is felt, in this tract of the ocean, in reading the Voyage of Columbus ; imagination pictures to itself all that happened to that bold adventurer in his very extraordinary expedition.

But though Columbus most ably refuted the arguments of many learned men, who thought it impossible that his great plan for a voyage of discovery to that ex tent, could be executed, yet, when he and his companions arrived in the Tropics, they became very uneasy, by observing a phænomenon which is now our delight ; this is the trade-wind, which blows constantly from the east. The first adventurers who crossed * Several species of fishes in the Tropics are not destitute of a voice. the Atlantic ocean, doubted whether they should ever find means to revisit their native country, until they discovered by experience, that in shaping a course on their return, first to a certain degree of north latitude, they had no longer any difficulty in sailing to Europe. Feb. 14th. — A shark has passed our ship, but without paying attention to the bait which was prepared for him.

I took several large hooks with chains from Madeira, wishing to catch some of this fish, particularly the white shark, of which it is said (as I have noted in my memorandum book) " that the young brood, when in danger, rush down the throat, and take shelter in the belly of the old one ;" and it is added, as a remark of Mr. Pennant, " that this is no more incredible, than that the young of the opossum should find such an asylum in the ventral pouch of its parent." But with all respect for the Natural History of Mr. Pennant, there seems to be a great difference between an outward pouch, formed like another bag, where the quadruped carries its young in safety, and that interior pouch, which is supposed some of the species of sharks possess ; for unless the organization of the shark is very extraordi nary, this place of retreat must be very inconvenient for the young ones, as likewise must be the passage leading to it, through the throat of this always voracious animal.

Until, therefore, the fact is better confirmed by a careful dissection, I cannot help looking upon the jaws of this most ravenous fish, as upon the celebrated cave of the lion, where so many animals were seen to go in, but none ever to return Feb. 15th. — In the afternoon, as the Captain and I were standing on the deck we perceived several lofty water-spouts rising from the sea, and after this a large fish ascended out of the water, to appear ance about mid-way, then threw himself with the greatest strength down again ; upon which the Captain called out, There is a thrasher, a thrasher ! and, continued he, in the course of twenty years since I have been at sea, this is only the second time I have seen the thrasher fighting with a whale. The thrasher belongs to the species of sharks, but I can give no further description of this fish; for when first we perceived him, it was at a considerable distance, and the animal continued his course very rapidly, still fighting all the time that we were able to observe him.

You will however naturally suppose that this must be a fish of the first rate in size, as he is able to fight with the whale. We had only a momentary opportunity of perceiving the latter, when he raised his head out of the water to breathe the air, and he spouted frequently. Feb. 16th Wre are now in the fifth degree of north latitude, being obliged to sail so near the Line, to avoid the strong currents from carrying us too far out of our course, and hindering us from making the river Surinam. Although rapidly approaching the Line, we feel no particular inconvenience from the heat ; a large awning shelters us from the powerful rays of the sun, and the Tropical breeze makes the air extremes pleasant ; there is so little molion in the ship, that we have been able to fill a bumper in memory of our absent friends, without spilling the least drop.

This sailing is like a pleasure party on a river ; and if thc sea were every where so smooth and delightful as it generally is in this part of the world, an agreeable companion might sooner be engaged to go upon a long voyage. Feb. 17th. — The sea becomes more animated, incredibly large flocks of flying fish are passing us, and though they are pursued by many different enemies, kind nature has provided them the means of escaping from them all. Whilst they are attacked by the other fishes they use their winged-fins to get into the air; but as soon as they expect to be attacked by a bird, they return to the deep again ; and their great number shews how successful they must be in general in effecting their escape. Their increase is likewise extremely great, and in this respect they are like the herring, to which also they bear a resemblance in shape.