Narrative of an expedition through the Upper Mississippi to Itasca Lake, the actual source of this river; embracing an exploratory trip through the St. Croix and Burntwood (or Broule) Rivers in 1832, etc

Front matter

NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI TO ITASCA LAKE, THE ACTUAL SOURCE OF THIS RIVER J EMBRACING AN EXPLORATORY TRIP-THROUGH THE ST. CROIX AND BURNTWOOD (OR BROULE) RIVERS; IN 18 3 2. UNDER THE DIRECTION OF HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. NEW-YORK: PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NO. 82 CLIFF-STREET. 18 34. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1833, By Henry R. Schoolcraft, In the Clerk's Office osthe District of Michigan. Geo. L. Whitney, Printer, Detroit. TO GEN. HUGH BRADY, OF THE UNITED STATES ARMY. Sir: In prefixing your name to this volume, I am reminded that, while indulging the gratification of personal friendship, I am addressing a soldier, who early entered the field of western warfare under the veteran Wayne ; and who, for a period of upwards of forty years, during the changing circumstances of war and of peace, has ever been found faithfully, bravely, and honorably serving his country.

With sentiments of respect, HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT, PREFACE, The circumstances under which the present expe dition was undertaken, are indicated in the following extracts from the letters of instruction. "Detroit, Aug. 9, 1830. "Sir : I have been directed by the War Department to request you to proceed into the Chippewa country, to endeavor to put an end to the hostilities between the Chippewas and Sioux. The general route must be left to your discretion. Whether it will be necessary for you to go beyond Fond du Lac, you can best deter mine on your arrival there. From the limited means applicable to this object, I am apprehensive that your journey cannot be extended beyond that place. But in that event, it will be necessary to summon some of the principal Mississippi Chiefs to meet you, as with out their concurrence no durable pacification can be effected.

" Your object will be to impress upon them, the ne cessity of terminating their hostilities with the Sioux. And the considerations connected with the subject are so familiar to you, that I need not dwell upon them. You are perfectly acquainted with their useless and harrowing contests, and the miseries these have in flicted, and yet threaten to inflict upon them. But it will be well to state to them the result of the recent council at Prairie du Chien, that they may know what has been done by the other Indians, and that the Sioux,

Preface

. now freed from the pressure in other quarters, can di rect their whole force against them. " In addition to the other considerations you may urge, I enclose a speech to be delivered to them, which you will please to accompany with a proper belt. I think it will be best for them to send a message to the Sioux without delay, stating their determination to re frain from hostilities in conformity with the wish of their great father the President, and their adhesion to the treaty of Prairie du Chien. This message should be sent while you are with them, and I recommend that one from you be likewise sent to the Sioux, explanatory of the matter. " You will proceed to the execution of this duty without delay, if the season be not too far advanced when you receive this letter. But I am apprehensive it will not reach you in season.

Should it be so, you will please send a message to the chiefs stating your intention to visit them next summer, and recommend ing them to sit still until you can see them. It may have the effect of keeping them quiet. If, however, you cannot proceed this fall, it is probable that circumstances may require some change in these instructions before the next season, and your arrangements must therefore depend upon such as may be hereafter given." " Very respectfully, &c. LEW. CASS." " Department of War, >- Office of Indian Affairs, 25th April, 1831. 5 Sir : Since writing the letter to you of the 5th in stant, Gov. Cass has arrived here, and submitted to the Secretary of War his views, as to the propriety of di recting you to proceed into Lake Superior and the Mississippi country, &c. These views have been ap proved, and I am accordingly directed to instruct you to proceed as soon as your arrangements can be made for the purpose, on the proposed expedition. The objects to be accomplished are so well known, and have also been so fully explained in the letter of Gov. Cass

PREFACE.

. V to you of the 9th of August last, that it is deemed un necessary to give you any further instructions on the subject. " Orders will be issued through the proper department, to the Commanding Officer at the Sault Ste. Marie for a detachment of the troops, to form a part of the proposed expedition. " Very respectfully, __c. SAMUEL S. HAMILTON." " Department of War, ) Office of Indian Affairs, May 3rd, 1 832. \ " Sir : Your letter of Feb. 13th has been received, and its general views are approved. The Secretary of War deems it important that you should proceed to the country upon the heads of the Mississippi, and visit as many of the Indians in that, and the intermediate region, as circumstances will permit. " Reports have reached the department, from various quarters, that the Indians upon our frontiers are in an unquiet state, and that there is a prospect of extensive hostilities among themselves.

It is no less the dictate of humanity, than of policy, to repress this feeling, and to establish permanent peace among these tribes. It is also important to inspect the condition of the trade in that remote country, and the conduct osthe traders. To ascertain whether the regulations and the laws are complied with, and to suggest such alterations as may be required. And finally to inquire into the numbers, standing, disposition and prospects of the Indians, and to report all the statistical facts you can procure and which will be useful to the government in its operations, or to the community in the investigation of these sub jects. " In addition to these objects, you will direct your attention to the vaccination of the Indians. An act for that purpose, has passed Congress, and you are autho rised to take a surgeon with you. Vaccine matter pre pared and put up by the Surgeon General is herewith transmitted to you, and you will, upon your whole route, VI

PREFACE.

. explain to the Indians the advantages of vaccination, and endeavor to persuade them to submit to the pro cess. You will keep and report an account of the number, ages, sex, tribe, and local situation of the In dians who may be vaccinated, and also of the preva lence, from time to time, of the small pox among them, and of its effects as far as these can be ascertained. " Very respectfully, &c. ELBERT HERRING." In the execution of these orders, the summer season of two years was devoted. All the bands of the Chip pewa nation, located north of the mouth of the Wis consin, and some bands of the Sioux were visited. Councils were held with them at various points, for the objects above specified, and no opportunity was omitted to acquire statistical and other information suited to aid in the formation of correct opinions respecting their condition, and the policy to be pursued respecting them.

The portion of country situated between the bands of Lake Superior and the Mississippi, south of St. An thony's falls, occupied the summer of 1831. The area extending thence north, to the source of the Missis sippi, and the Hauteur des Terres, forming the elevation separating its waters, from the steams received by Hudson's bay, constituted the object osthe expedition of 1832. So much of this area, as lies north of a latitude line passing through Cass lake, and west of about its parallel of longitude, comprehends the principal to pic of description in the following work. And it is thus distinguished, from other portions of the western country, brought into discussion, in my two previous vol umes of travels. HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. Detroit, October 10, 1833. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI, TO ITASCA LAKE.

Chapter I

Introductory observations on the sources of the Mississippi. — Pike's expedition in 1805, for exploring ils course, and ascertaining its origin. — The expedition of Gov. Cass, directed lo the same objects, in 1820. — Ils extent, termination, and results. — Renewed efforts to ascend to ils source, by the author, in 1831. — Diverted to the unexplored country lying in the area between Lake Superior and the Upper Mississippi, south of St. Anthony's Falls. — Summary of the route. — The St. Croix and Chippewa Rivers. — Massacre of the Monomonees al Prairie du Chien, in 1831. — Mine country. — Return to the Straits of St. Mary. American geography may be said to have had three important problems to solve, in modern times. The first and second of these, related to the source osthe Missouri, and to the course and termination of the Columbia.

Both, were substantially resolved by the expedition of Lewis and Clark, under the admin istration of Mr. Jefferson. It is to be borne in mind, however, that but one of the three forks, up to which the Missouri was traced, has been explored, that its two northwestern branches have not been ascended, and that, consequently, we do not actually know, which of its primary tributaries is the longest, or brings down the greatest volume of water. The true source of the Mississippi, which forms the third topic of inquiry, was brought into discussion at the same pe riod. And immediately after the acquisition of Louisiana, the American government sent an officer, with a suitable body of men, to determine it. Lieut. Pike, who was selected for this service (who, nine years afterwards lost his life as a general in the service, at the taking of York) did not, however, set out early enough in the season (1805) to accomplish the object.

After the selection and purchase of the site, on which the fort ne ar the Falls of St. Anthony, is now situated, he encountered delays in ascending the rapids characteristic of that part of the Mississippi. Winter overtook him before reaching the junc tion of the De Corbeau. He prepared for its severities by erecting a block house, for the security of his provisions and men. He then proceeded with a small detachment, on snow shoes to Sandy Lake, and Leech Lake ; two points of central influence, which were then occupied by the North West Fur Company. As the partners of this company consisted of for eigners, and their operations were continued after the legal transfer of the country to the American government, Lieut. Pike would have been justified in making a seizure of the valu able furs then in their possession.

He did not, however, adopt this course, and exhibited a magnanimity in relation to it, which is in accordance with his subsequent acts of disinterested intrepidity. He collected the geographical data, which are embodied in his published map and journal, and returned from his wintry station, on the opening of navigation in the spring. No further effort was made to explore the sources of the Mis sissippi, for several years. In 1820, Cov. Cass, then adminis tering the government of Michigan Territory and exercising jurisdiction over Indian affairs, obtained the sanction of the general government to visit the region. He left Detroit, with a party of thirty-eight men, including the gentlemen composincr his suit, during the latter part of May. He was supplied for a journey of four months. After traversing the coasts of Lake Huron, and visiting Michilimackinac, he proceeded north-westward, by ascending the primitive summit at the Falls of St. Mary, went through the extended and picturesque basin of Lake Superior, and first struck the waters of the Upper Mississippi at Sandy Lake.

To this point he was accompanied by the mil itary escort, and by the train of larger canoes employed to transport stores and baggage. But the fatigues which the men had undergone in crossing portages, added to the low state of the water, induced him to form a permanent encampment at this place. And he proceeded with a select party, in canoes to explore the Mississippi. It was the middle of July when the expedition reached Sandy Lake, and the difficulty of subsisting so large a party in so remote a position, with the constant claims of suffering and hungry tribes, who presented themselves at every point, began to be severely felt. The exploring party, which was now organized, went out, under a sense of these circumstances, and with a feeling of the responsibility pressing upon the claims of the expedition in other quarters, which limited the time applicable to the ascent.

They entered the Mississippi on the 17th of the month, and found a strong current, with alluvial banks, and a vegetation indicative of a fertile soil. For the distance of about one hundred and fifty miles, above this point, the party found no diminution in the average strength osthe current, which was frequently accelerated by rapids. The latter then assumed a more formidable aspect for ten or a dozen miles, at the end of which they were terminated by the falls of Peckagama. At this cataract, the river, which below has its course through alluvial banks, densely wooded, is compressed between rocks of granulated quartz, over which it rushes with a velocity, which would seem to threaten destruction to any species of craft that should attempt the descent. It became necessary, at this point, to transport the canoes and baggage from two to three hundred vards over land.

On reaching the Peckagama summit, the channel of the Miss sissippi was found to flow more directly from the west, with a comparatively sluggish current. But the most distinctive trait of this part of the river was found to consist of a series of ex tensive Savannahs, through which the river displays itself in the most elaborate windings. The junction of the Leech Lake branch takes place at this plateau, at the computed distance of fifty-five miles above the falls. After passing this point, the course of the river is again, generally, from the north-west, about forty-five miles to Lake Winnipec, a handsome body of clear water, estimated to be ten miles broad. The course of the ascent is then west, for about fifty miles, at which distance the river is found expanded into a more considerable lake, presenting an area of limpid water of, perhaps, 120 square miles.

This sheet, which has subsequently been found to be the largest ex pansion of the Mississippi, is since denominated Cass Lake. It was the highest point reached. The party entered it on the 21st of July. The question of pursuing the stream further, was then submitted by Gov. Cass, to the gentlemen composing his party. Anxious as all were to see the actual source of so celebrated a stream, their wishes were controlled by circumstances. Inconveniences had been felt from leaving the supplies at so considerable a distance below, and as the waters were found to be low, and the preparations inadequate for a journey of indefinite extent, a decisive opinion was expressed in favor of a return from this point. This decision was immediately carried into effect. From the best information that could be obtained, the Missis sippi was represented to have its origin in a lake called La Biche, supposed to be sixty miles distant, in a north-west direction.

Up on this estimate, the length of the river was computed to be 3038 miles, and by a series of approximate estimates, its altitude placed at 1330 feet above the Atlantic. Numerous rapids and lakes were, however, stated to exist in this remote part of the stream, and a degree of vagueness and uncertainty exhibited in relation to it, which evinced, that the traders, who were relied on for information, either, had seldom frequented it, or preserved an indefinite recollection of its geographical features. Such was the state of public information on this point in 1820. A veil of obscurity was still cast about the actual source of the Mississippi, which there was no further attempt to remove for ten or eleven years. In 1830, the writer of these sheets was directed to proceed into the Chippewa country, north-west of Lake Superior, in the execution of duties connected with In dian affairs.

But the instructions were received so late in the season, that their execution became impracticable until the next year. In the mean time, means for more extensive observation were provided, a physician and botanist engaged, and a small detachment of troops, under the command of a subaltern, or dered to form a part of the expedition. This expedition numbering twenty-seven persons, exclusive of guides and Indian auxiliaries, employed on the portages, left St. Mary's at the foot of Lake Superior, late in June 1831. After entering, and coursing around the shores of Lake Supe rior to Lapointe, it was found, from every representation, that the low state of the water on the Upper Mississippi, would ren der it difficult, if not impracticable, to reach the bands at its sources, during the drought of summer.

Public reasons were, at the same time, urgent for visiting the interior bands, located between the groupe of islands at the head of Lake Superior, and the Mississippi — where a useless and harrassing conflict was kept up between the Sioux and Chippewa nations. The expedition returned eight miles on its track, and entered the mouth of Mushkigo, or Mauvais river of Lake Superior. This stream, which carries down the waters of an extensive slope of highlands, is embarrassed with permanent rafts of flood wood, and with numerous rapids, presenting an arduous ascent. The axe, the canoe-pole, and the carrying-strap, were alternately employed in the ascent, and they were employed under the influence of the midsummer's heat, and the annoyance of the hordes of smaller insects, who are on the wing, in this secluded val ley, during the greater part of the twesity-four hours.

This stream was ascended one hundred and four miles, to the portage. The goods and canoes were then carried Sf miles, across high lands, to a lake called Koginogumoc, or the Longwater ; and thence by four separate portages, and three intervening lakes, to the Namakagon river. The latter was descended one hun dred and sixty-one miles, to its junction with the St. Croix, of which it is the right fork, and the channel of the latter pursued to Yellow River. From this point, where a public council was convened, the expedition re-ascended the Namakagon to the portage into lac Courtonelle, or Ottawa Lake. This portage consists of a carrying place of three miles and a lake, then another carrying place of 750 yards and a lake, from the latter of which there is a navigable outlet into the Ottawa for canoes.

Ottawa Lake is a sheet of water about twelve miles long, having an outlet into the Chippewa river of the Upper Missis sippi. In order, however, to visit certain hostile bands, a portage was made from this outlet (after following it down about half a day's journey,) of SJ miles, into lac Chetac, the principal source of Red Cedar river. The latter was then pursued, through four principal expansions, called Wigwas, Warpool, Red Cedar and Rice Lakes, to its falls. A short portage over horizontal sand-rock, interrupts the navigation, after which there is a series of rapids, extending about 24 miles. Deep and strong water was then found to its junction with the Chippewa river, which it enters at the estimated distance of 40 miles from the confluence of the latter with the Mississippi, (on its eastern bank.)

The entire line of country travelled by this interior route was 643 miles. The Mushkigo, the St. Croix, and the Chippewa, were the rivers, which by their common origin and interlocking on the summit lands, afforded this communication. Many bands of Indians were visited in their fastnesses, where they had hith erto supposed themselves out of the reach of observation. Councils were held at various points, and presents distributed. And the pauses afforded by these assemblages, and by the ne cessary delays of overland transportation, furnished opportuni ties for preserving notes on the manner of living, among those bands, and their population, traditions and resources, as well as the geographical features and the natural history of the country. On entering the Mississippi, the truth of the information, derived on Lake Superior, respecting its depressed state, was verified.

Extensive portions of its outer channel and bars, were found exposed and dry. The party encamped on a sand bar formed by the junction of the Chippewa, which is usually several feet under water. From the mouth of the Chippewa, the expedition descended the Mississippi to Galena, in Illinois. While at Prairie du Chien, the murder of twenty-six Monomonee men, women, and chil dren, by a war party of the Sacs and Foxes, which had trans pired a few days previous, was the subject of exciting interest. It was narrated with all its attrocious circumstances. A flag waved over the common grave of the slain, and several of the wounded Monomonees, who had escaped the massacre, were examined and conversed with. This affray unparalleled for its boldness and turpitude, having occurred in the village of Prairie du Chien, in the hearing of its inhabitants, and in sight of the fort, was made the subject of demand by the government for the surrendry of the murderers, and produced the concentration of troops on that frontier, which eventuated in the Indian war of 1832.

Some excitement was also felt at Galena, and its vicinity, in consequence of the menacing attitude which the Sacs and Foxes had recently assumed, in the vicinity of Rock Island, and a general mistrust felt of their sincerity in the treaty con cluded with the United States a short time previous. At Galena, the exploring party separated, part returning in canoes up the Wisconsin, and part crossing the mine country, over the branches of the Pekatolika, and by the way of the Blue Mounds, to fort Winnebago. From this point, Fox River was descended to Green Bay, and the route of the lake coast pur sued northward to the straits, and to the Sault of St. Mary. A narrative of this expedition, embracing its principal inci dents, and observations on the productions of the country, is in preparation for publication by one of the gentlemen of the party.

In the mean time, the official report transmitted to Government, and submitted to Congress by the War Department, together with remarks in a series of letters on the mine country, are sub joined in the appendix to this volume. -

Chapter II

Farther observations on the exploration of the Upper Mississippi, and the discovery of its source. — An expedition authorised by the United States government, in 1832. — Its organization, objects, and route. — Leaves St. Mary, and proceeds through Lake Superior. — Sketch of this lake. — Notice of the murder of Brunet, by an Indian, in 1831. — Mission at Lapoinle, or Chagoimegon. — The importance of this point in Indian history. — Mongozid, Wahbojeeg. — Meet Ozawindib, at the Brule. — Route to Sandy Lake, on the Upper Mississippi. — Portages on the St. Louis. — The Savanna portage — Sandy Lake. — Assassination of Mr. Kay. Early in 1832, the plan of visiting the source of the Mississip pi, was resumed. And a memoir for its execution, accompanied by estimates, forwarded to the Department of War, which recei ved the sanction of the Hon. L. Cass, then placed at the head of that department.

An expedition was accordingly organized, consisting of thirty persons, including an officer of the army, detached, with ten men, for topographical duty, a surgeon and geologist, an interpreter of the language, and a missionary to the north-western Indians, who was invited to accompany the exploring party. This expedition was based on a renewal of the effort to effect a permanent peace with the two principal Indian nations, who inhabit that region, and whose continued feuds, not only weaken and harrass each other, but embarrass the trade, interrupt the execution of the intercourse laws, and involve the lives and property of the frontier inhabitants. Additional weight was given to these considerations, by the unquiet state of the Indians on the Upper Mississippi, which broke out in open hos tility during the year.

These reasons were connected with the supervision of the trade, the acquisition of statistical facts, and the carrying into effect an act of Congress of that year, for extending the benefits of vaccination to the Indian tribes. To which end it was enjoined " to proceed to the country on the heads of the Mississippi, and to visit as many Indians in that, and the in termediate region, as circumstances would permit." This expedition, to the account of which the present volume is devoted, left St. Mary's on the 7th of June, 1832. As the route through Lake Superior, and thence north-west, on the waters of the Upper Mississippi, to Cass Lake, has been described in a "Narrative Journal of Travels in the North-west," of 1820, heretofore published by the author, no details of the geography of the country then passed over and described, or of the ordinary incidents of a journey through this portion of the country, will be given.

A brief sketch, however, of the general route, will serve to refresh the memory of readers whose atten tion has been before called to the subject, and cannot but prove acceptable to all, who feel an interest in the developement of its natural features and character. The village of the Sault of St Mary's is situated on the com munication which connects Lake Huron with Lake Superior, fifteen mdes below the foot of the latter. A strong and con tinued rapid, over shelving sand rock, interrups the navigation for vessels. The water has been computed to sink its level, twenty two feet ten inches, at this place. A portage exceeding half a mile, enables boats to proceed beyond. The river above has a brisk current, which is imperceptibly lost on entering be tween the two prominent capes, which form the opening into Lake Superior.

This lake, which is called Igomi, Chigomi, and Gitchigomi, by the Indians, as the term is more or less abbreviated, is re markable for its extent, its depth, and the purity of its waters. It lies in a bason of trap rocks, with alternations of the granite and sandstone series. No variety of calcareous rock ife present,* and its waters are consequently free from impregnations from * Detached pieces of calcareous tufa were found, imbedded in the soil, at the mouth of the liver Brule, in 1832. this source. As it is the largest and the purest of the series of lakes it is also the highest in position ; its altitude being compu ted at 640 feet above the Atlantic. Its banks are diversi fied with mural precipices, with extensive deposits of marine sand, and with beds of mixed detritus. Its immediate margin is loaded with primitive boulders and pebble-stones, alternating with shores of yellow and of iron sand.

Several bold mountains of primitive construction, stand near the central parts of its south shores, which are in striking contrast with the ruin-like, walled masses, of horizontal structure, which characterize other parts. Among the detritus of its shores are still occasionally found masses of native copper, which are now referred to the trap formation. Of a body of water so irregular in its shape and imperfectly defined, it may be vague to speak of its superficial area, but this may be assumed to cover 30,000 square miles. It embraces numerous islands, the largest of which are Grand, Royal, and Magdalen islands. It has several noble harbors, bays and inlets, and receives numerous rivers. It abounds with fish, the most noted of which are white-fish, sturgeon, and salmon-trout. But by far the most valuable product of its present commerce, is its furs and peltries.

The Indian population of its immediate shores, is not great. Exclusive of bands located on the heads of its rivers, it does not exceed 1006 souls, to which may be added 436 for the American side of the St. Mary's river. Their trade is conducted by 15 clerks, licensed by the Indian department, employing 70 boatmen, interpreters and runners. Re cently a mission has been established on Magdalen Island (La Pointe of the traders,) by the American Board of Foreign Missions, and the gospel began to be preached to the natives. The estimated population which, in a comprehensive view, should be added for the south shores, extending to the borders of the Winnebago and Monomonee lands, and running west, to the Sioux line, is, for the northern curve of Green Bay, 210 ; heads of the Monomonee and Wisconsin rivers, 342 ; the Chippewa river and its tributaries, 1376; the St. Croix and its tributaries, 895 ; Grand Portage, and Rainy Lake, 476 ; to which latter may perhaps be added, 249, making, with the for mer estimates, 5000 souls.

In travelling through this lake, in boats or canoes, the shores are followed round. The distance from Point Iroquois to the entrance of the St. Louis river of Fond du Lac, is estimated at 490 miles, exclusive of the journey around the peninsula of Keweena, which is ninety miles more. The general course is nearly due west, in consequence of which, the climate is deemed to be decidedly more favorable to agriculture at its head than at its outlet. Traders, who course round the peninsula in boats, take, on an average, twenty-six days in the voyage. Fifteen were employed on the present expedition. Indians were met at various points, and wherever it was practicable, they were vaccinated. The surgeon employ-id on that service reported 699 vaccinations on the voyage through the lake, and experienced no difficulty in getting them to submit to the process.