Two Years at Sea: being the narrative of a voyage to the Swan River and Van Dieman's Land; during the years 1829, 30, 31

Front matter

C iy_^^u4rtn&^t7WU4e/. *=~Æamœ0tm . BJ>* by fLEtnelty. London, 7834* Drawn by M\ft Robert TWO YEARS AT SEA: BEIXO THE NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE SWAN RIVER AND VAN DIEMAN'S LAND, DURING THE YEARS 1829, 30,31. BY JANE ROBERTS. Tbuu'.'h the Seas threaten, they are merciful. Shakspfare. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1834. LONDON: P. SHOBERL, JUN., 4, LEICESTER STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE. ro THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF MUNSTER, &c. &c. &c. THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, AS AN HUMBLE TRIBUTE OF ESTEEM AND GRATITUDE, BT HIS lordship's UUCH OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. TO MY READERS. In the course of the following pages, I have endeavoured to narrate faithfully what fell under my own immediate observation during a long and circuitous voyage, hoping that a description of the strange adven tures I met with may prove acceptable to my Readers.

In our outward course, we touched at Madeira, Bahia, the Cape of Good of Hope, the New Settlement of the Swan River, and Van Dieman's Land : we returned through the Torres' Straits; touching at the Half way Island, Timor, Singapore, Pulo Penang, VI TO MV READERS. the Pedier Coast, the Car Nicobar Islands, Rangoon, Calcutta, Madras, and the Islands of St. Helena and Ascension. The Torres' Straits throw up sand-banks at one time, which disappear at another ; hence the passage, from being often new, is always dangerous. Why we should have made so long and perilous a circuit, the narrative will show. The powers of the human frame are much beyond our conception ; were we to see before us the fatigues and dangers the body is to undergo, we should say that it must sink under them : and, could we know the sorrows and bereavements the mind is to experience, we should think the heart must break ; but the dangers and fatigues come and pass away, and still we do not sink ; sickness, sorrows, and bereavements, attend us, and still the heart does not break : be- TO MY READERS.

VII cause, though ill teem on ill, we shall run our course, till the Almighty fiat go forth that " the silver cord be loosed." It is thus that I have been preserved, by a gracious and protecting Providence, through all the dangers related in the following work, and through many other deeper cares and sorrows passed over in silence, and landed safely in England, after a voyage of two years and three days. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

A Ship a wonder in herself — Laden with Passengers for a distant Colony, wonderful and interesting — Feelings of Emigrants on leaving the British Shore — Sea-sickness — The being fairly at Sea — Loss of Property — Future Prospects ........ 1

Chapter II

Ship leaves England for Van Dieman's Land — Makes little progress — Cattle die — Speaks a Ship — Anchors off the Island of Madeira — Officers of Health — Passengeis go on Shore — A Breakfast — Divide into Parties — Visit the Mount — Description of a Chapel to the Virgin — Safety of Palanqueen-bearers — Visit to a Convent of Nuns, who sell Artificial and Wax Elowers and Fruits — The Holy Sisterhood not Fair Traders — Conversation on Politics — Convent in confusion — Nun Imprisoned — Donna Maria's Colour — Description of Funchal — Merchants' Houses — Variety of Climate — Fruit and Seed Purchased — Return on Board — Departure ...... 6

Chapter III

Ship's Course for Bahia — Enters the Tropics — Flying Fish — Crosses the Line — Arrival at Bahia — Cattle not to be Purchased — Black Population — Market — Mode of Con- X CONTENTS. veyance — Brazilian Lady — Botanical Garden — Greek Church Service — Distant Convent — Nuns not Fair Traders — Black Town — Articles of Sale and Manufacture — Fruit — Mode of Procuring Stones — The Washing Merchants' Hospitality — Slaves and Children — No Clergyman of the Established Church of England — Return on Board — Departure . . . . . . . . 18

Chapter IV

Proceed to the Cape — A Child Sick and Dies — Young Woman in the Steerage confined and loses her Child — Arrival off the Cape — Boarding House selected — Fate of a Gentleman and his Daughter — Accounts of the Failure of the Swan River Settlement — Servants questioned and Settlers dismayed — Stock purchased — Goats recommended — Return on Board . . . . ■ . .34

Chapter V

Ship Steers for the Swan River — Fine Weather — Approach to the Shores of New Holland — Anchor safely — Feelings of the Passengers — Aspect of the Land — A Bright White Sand — Sudden appearance of an Old Acquaintance — Black Swan — Numbers to the South — Preparations for going on Shore — The Captain interested for Passengers — Settlers for themselves — Town of Freemantle — The Wood — No Vegetables — Fresh Meat scarce — Horse-house towed on Shore — No spare Boats — The Bar — Shallowness of the River — Sand Banks — Tents too hot to endure — Party arranged in the open Air — Description of Daily Fare — Scarcity of Milk — Fish good and plentiful — Musquitoes and Lizards, Nocturnal Companions — Seven Weeks' Residence . . . . . . . . 40

Chapter VI

Arrangements made by the Settler — Description of a Party Encampment and Property — Wells — Water near the Sur- CONTENTS. XI face, destructive to Gardens — Settler goes to Head Quar ters (Perth) for his Grant — Annoyances of the River — Examines his specified Grant — Refuses it — Sets up his House — A Settler's Breakfast — Sand disagreeable — Washing dear — A heavy Shower of Rain — How provided against — Ophthalmia • . . . . 56

Chapter VII

Appearance of the Natives — The Horse House — Curiosity of the Natives — Sensitive of Honour, and quick in Resentment — A Child Lost — Search made — Child restored — Natives had used him well — Heat experienced from their Fires — A Ship's Apprentice lost — Annoyances to Settlers . . . . , . . .67

Chapter VIII

A Walk to Freemantle — Visit to the Clergyman's Sister — The Mysterious Stranger — Story of Three Adventurers — Church — Tranby People — Performance of Divine Service — The Party, tired and hungry, return to the Wood — Sunday — No Supper — A Row up the River — Anticipations of Verdure — Disappointment — Tea Party— Settler's Establishment, and Fare — Amusement of the Evening — St. Mary's Spring ...... 75

Chapter IX

Mr. Peel's Grant — Former Settlers claim and divide it — Mr. Peel's Arrival — His Surprise and Disappointment — Lands his Party — Locates the Sandy Plain — Calls it Peel Town — Search for Land — None to be Found — Employment of his Party — A Fire — Issue of Paper Money— Brighter Prospects to be hoped for as regards Settlers 89

Chapter X

The Grass Tree — Its Appearance and Manner of Growth — Makes good Fire-wood — Speculators of Peel Town — CONTENTS. XII Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers, of the Country — The Widow- Bird — The Kangaroo — Insects — Musquitoes and Lizards -~B6che la Mer, _ Chinese Luxury — Future Source of Trade 97

Chapter XI

Breaking up of the Encampment — Destruction of a Well by a bad character — Servants not so good as expected — Ship from England — Shepherd — Sheep and Dog — A Cart a luxury — A Marriage — Encouragement to be given to Settlers — Specimen of a Letter of Condolence — Departure from the Swan River . . . . . 103

Chapter XII

Description of Passengers — Their account of Van Dieman's Land — Advantages and Disadvantages of Convict Labour — Practices of Convict Servants — A heavy Sea — Subscription for the Captain — The Vessel anchors in the River Derwent — Winter Season — Feelings of Parties long separated — Arrangements for the Removal up the Country — Hobart Town — Convicts in Chains — How paid as Servants — The Church — Schools for Boys and Girls — Hotel Fares and Charges — Fruit and Flowers — Trade with China — King's Birthday kept — Ball at the Government House — New Norfolk — Birds and Plants preserved for sale— Shells — The Kangaroo — Ship to return to England through the Torres' Straits — Departure . . . . . .111

Chapter XIII

Ship Steers, on leaving Hobart Town, along the Australian Shore — Sailors religiously inclined — Birds and Reefs — Entrance to the Straits below the Cumberland's Track — Anchorage for the Night — Ship gets adrift — Passes Murray's and two other Islands — Arrival at Half-way Island — Terror of the Natives — Appearance of the Island — Excursion on Shore — Huts — Matting — Burial CONTENTS XIII Place — Mode of obtaining Water — Description of Leafy Watercourse and Shell Reservoir — No Fruit — Return to the Ship — Natives prepare their Evening Meal . 135

Chapter XIV

Continued Passage of the Straits — Dangerous to Ships — Appearance of Seven Vessels — Ship anchors and speaks them — Sails the next Day — Sailors tenacious of the honour of their Vessel — Arrival at Timor — Anchor in Copang Bay — Some account of the Town of Copang and its Inhabitants — Cockatoos — Food — Barter — Trade in Ponies — The Governor — Piano-Fortes — Church and Finger Organ — A Musical Christian Pastor — Governor's Nephew — Account of his Sister — A Native Instrument — Mode of carrying Water — The Governor's Secretary and Son — Drinking on Board — Conversion of the Heathen — Departure from Copang ........ 149

Chapter XV

Voyage to Singapore — A London Whaler — The Master and State of his Vessel — We pass the Straits of Lombeck and speak a Chinese Vessel — Receipt of Newspapers — Illness of George IV. — Reflections thereon — Arrival at Singapore — The Merchant's House — Chinese Music — Stores — Black Town — Mode of Paying — Hindoo Attendants — Religious knowledge of two Hindoos — Commercial situation of Singapore — We set Sail . . . 166

Chapter XVI

Progress to the Prince of Wales's Island — A Week of dreadful Weather — We joyfully hail Pulo Penang — Go on Shore — Carriages — Waterfall — Hospitality received — Town of Penang — Stores — Library — Scenery — President's House and Grounds — Fruit — Visit to a Chinese Missionary — Church of Penang — Missionary Place of Worship — Attempted Conversion of the Chinese — Boys' and Girls CONTENTS. XIV School — Boys educated for Missionaries — Present Plans — Disappointment as to the Ship's Cargo . • "°

Chapter XVII

We steer for the Pedier coast — Anchor — Captain goes on shore — Appearance of a Rajah — His dress and attendants — He leaves the Ship — A kindly Breeze — Present of the Rajah — A suspicious Vessel — Piracy common . 194

Chapter XVIII

We Sail for the Group of the Car Nicobar Islands — Anchor off Choury — The Ruler — Dress — Good Order of his Subjects — Produce of the Island — Canoes — Anchorage off Nicobar, the Principal Island of the Group — Description of the Village of Nicobar — Native Evening Meal — Intelligent Child — Mode of Paying for Cocoa Nuts — Conversation of the Ruler — Mode of Burial — Idea of the Deity — Dislike to the words "Buy and Sell" — Trait of Honesty — Death of a Man from the Bite of a Snake — Native Lamentation — Pigs the great Luxury of Nicobar — How brought on Board — Departure from the Island . 203

Chapter XIX

Passage to Rangoon — Sail up the River — Distant appearance of the Place — Illumination of the River — Captain goes on Shore — Visits Mr. Judson — We call on him — His Abode — Conversation — Grand Procession to fetch the Rajah's Head Wife — War-boats — Royal Barges and others — We go on Shore — A Procession — Hospitably received — Settle on Shore ....... 220

Chapter XX

Arrangements of our time on Shore — Name and Situation of Rangoon — Population — Description of the Interior — Houses how built — Shops and Market — Manufactures — Silk — Boxes — Drinking Cups, common — Silver Cups CONTENTS. XV — Description of the Women — Person — Dress — Descrip tion of the Men — Their Dress — Manners in the Street — Singular custom of seizing a Man's Servants and Wife before himself — A Procession of the Rajah and his Royal Wife to Visit the Great Dagon Pagoda — Black Books — Account of other Books, in the Burman and Pali Languages — Procession of the Rajah's Wives into Rangoon — Burmese proud of Rank — Rank how marked and conferred — Bur mese have no Coin — Ship-building carried on — We visit the Great Dagon Pagoda — Row up the River to Kemundine — A Dramatic Representation — Petroleum Oil used — Dancing — Music and Musical Instruments . 240

Chapter XXI

Reflections on Idolatry — Ward's Account of the Doctrine of Boodhu — Burmese ready to explain their Faith — Strange contradiction — To whom do they pray ? — Description of Gaudma — Size, Attitude, and of what made — Offerings to it — Images allowed to decay — Priests' Houses — Rules for the Priesthood — Sacred Books — Costume of a Priest — Mr. Judson's Account of Burman Preaching — The Priests' Vow — No Monuments erected after death — Bodies burned and forgotten — Great Dagon Hill and Pagoda — Gaudma's House — Great Bell — Burmese Account of its being taken and restored by the English — Trant's Description of its Capture — Tees, or Chattahs — Henza, or Goose — Remarkable Bronze Figures — Sacred Symbols — Offering of a Piece of Yellow Cloth — Visit to a Kioum or Priest's House — Burmese liberal to all Religions — White Elephants considered sacred — Supposed Connexion between Burmah and Egypt — How accounted for _. . . . 271

Chapter XXII

Review of what has been done for the conversion of the Burmese — Missionaries — Mr. and Mrs. Judson — Difficulty of the Language — Mrs. Judson's visit to the Viceroy's Wife CONTENTS. XVI — Mr. Carey's Loss — Mr. Judson studies the Pali Lan guage—Second visit to the Viceroy — First Printing in Burmah — First Inquirer after the New Religion — Mr. Wheelack's zeal — His arrival, illness, and melancholy death — Conversion openly commenced — The King dies — First Baptism — First Sacrament —A second Inquirer — Baptism described — Petition to the King— Present taken —The Bible — Mr. Judson's Christian hope— Future plans — Mr. Colman dies — Moung Shwa-gnong baptized — Mr. and Mrs. Judson sail for Bengal — Return to Rangoon — Viceroy favourable to them — Dr. Price — Moung Shwa gnong, a Reviser of the Translated Scriptures — Cholera — Mrs. Judson's illness — Ship sails for Bengal, England, and America — Mr. Judson's Literary labours . . 303

Chapter XXIII

Mr. Judson visits Ava — Conversation at Court — Kindness received — Ordered to preach — Opinion of Gaudma — An honest Courtier — Persecution at Rangoon — War breaks out — King and Queen take possession of the New Palace — Order against Foreigners — Burmese Pride — Seizure of Mr. Judson — Dreadful Sufferings of all — British Successful — Joyful release of Prisoners — Trant's account of their reception, and character of Mrs. Judson — Towns ceded by Treaty — Amherst named as the Seat of British Government — Mr. Judson's feelings imagined, on fixing on and naming it — He attends the Embassy to Ava — Mrs. Judson's death — His Return — Missionaries how settled — Tavoy — Description of Cariens — Symes's Account — Extraordinary and interesting visit to Mr. Boardman — Mr. Judson meets us — His account of a visit from a Jungle Chief and his followers — Anticipations deduced . . . 331

Chapter XXIV

Ship aground in Rangoon River — A Blind Passenger — We enter the Hoogley — Pilot — Towed by a Steamer — Custom CONTENTS. XVII of Hindoos — Money Lenders — Dress — Office — Go on Shore — Ship put into Dock — A House taken — Servants hired — Palanqueens and Palanqueen Carriages — Running Footmen necessary — Ball for French Revolution — Inquiry respecting the state of the Church at Calcutta — Mis sionary to Rangoon — Scotch Church — Cathedral — Ball at the Government House — Bazaars — Native Venders — Gold and Silver Ornaments — Native Nautch — Bride groom — Dancing Girls — Barrakpore — Government House and Menagerie — Botanical Gardens — Banian Tree — Au thor's Disappointment in Calcutta — Huts — Dress and Cus tom of Natives — Adjutants — Dancing Snakes — Passengers for England — An Elephant on Board . . 3C2

Chapter XXV

Voyage Home — Touch at Madras — Danger of Landing — Government Boat — Chorus of Rowers — Natives described — Arrival at the Hotel — Ornaments made bythe Natives — Return on board — Approach the Cape — Anecdote of Passengers — Short allowance of Water — Man overboard — Is rescued — Dies and is Buried — His Comrade dies — The Rock of St. Helena — Go on Shore — Mistress and Terms of Boarding House — Napoleon's old Habitation — House sent from England — His Tomb — Church of St. Helena — Reach Ascension — Take in Turtle — Arrive in England — Author's Feelings, and Conclusion . . . 382 PLATES. A Burmese House, Rangoon ... To face title. Nicobar ERRATA. Page vii, line 8, for " landed" read / landed. 94, . . 17, for *' or saw " read nor saw. 110, . . 11, for " gives his " read he gives his. 135, . . 2, for " Southward" read Northward. 377, . . 5, for " otto " read atta. 383, . . 4, for '* we were at " read we were to touch at. TWO YEARS AT SEA.

Chapter I

A Ship a wonder in herself — Laden with Passengers for a distant Colony wonderful and interesting — Feelings of Emigrants on leaving the British Shore — Sea-sickness — The being fairly at Sea — Loss of Property — Future Prospects. A ship destined to a distant colony contains such a heterogeneous assemblage of the wants of humanity, that the detail would not only be uninteresting but almost impossible. Con sidered in herself, she has ever been esteemed a wonder of human art and industry. How ever small her dimensions, she carries with her all that is sufficient for her own safety and the support of those destined to manage and guide her over the mighty deep: but when, in addition I! A SHIP A WONDER IN HERSELF. to these, she conveys the people of one land to another — people taking with them all they possess in the world — families of husband, wife, and children ; men-servants and maid servants ; flocks and herds ; goods and chat tels ; and every kind of produce, which their means will allow, of the country they leave behind, together with provisions of various descriptions for a certain period, till the land to which they wend their way shall yield its increase, then, indeed, a ship may be esteemed a combination not only of the wonderful but of the interesting.

It would be well did we not look closer, and that when she sails away, laden as we have described, she could leave human hopes, and fears, and passions, behind ; that the land she quits could bestow on those who tread her decks a quiescent draught, a something that would still their anxious thoughts and cares, till they arrive at the destined port. But this cannot be ; for the numerous beings she contains having been over-excited in collect ing, and expending their property to the best FEELINGS OF THE EMIGRANT. 3 advantage ; in endeavouring to anticipate and provide for every future contingency; and in tearing themselves from their homes, con nexions, and friends, feel, as the vessel re cedes from their native shore, helpless and almost hopeless. The country they leave rises before them in meridian splendour, whilst the one to which they are going appears enve loped in gloom and uncertainty.

These feelings, however, cannot last long. The attention is roused to ascertain why the vessel does not " scud before the wind" as she ought to do ; or sickness ensues, which gene rally attacks even the stoutest — a sickness that, fancy whispers, nothing but terra firma can assuage, so that the land of gloom again seems to smile, and involuntarily they wish they were there. The voyage continues, and different thoughts arise ; the father looks anxiously at his children, and wonders if, in a few years, when, in the pride of youth or manhood, they begin to throw off parental restraint, they will then thank him for his exertions on their account, b2 LOSS OF PROPERTY. or, whether, like the Israelites of old, they will not sneeringly ask, " Where is the promised land ? " To these sad reflections are added a grievous beginning of misfortunes — his cattle, on which his anticipated riches greatly de pend, sicken and die ; a sudden sea destroys their food ; the trees and plants, intended to improve and adorn his future estate, wither for lack of moisture under a scorching sun.

A thousand and a thousand other an noyances arise: "trifles light as air," but which, from circumstances, weigh heavy in the balance, disturb his quiet, and make him long for the land, which will take from him, if not all his troubles, at least those of the pre sent moment. Time, tardy as it appears, flies on, and he arrives at the haven of his hopes ; with the eyes of delight he would fain see all its charms at once, but he must be satisfied with a portion, and let fancy paint the rest. To some, indeed, who, from superior advantages or other circumstances, have well se lected their colony, their golden dreams may be realized; but when an adventurer has to FUTURE PROSPECTS. depend entirely on his own exertions — where all is new and untried — where a sandy desert, instead of verdant fields, presents itself, then is his disappointment at its height, and his burthen heavier than he can bear. The picture may be gloomy, but it is too often true.

Chapter II

Ship leaves England for Van Dieman's Land— Makes little progress — Cattle die — Speaks a Ship — Anchors off the Island of Madeira — Officers of Health — Passengers go on Shore — A Breakfast — Divide into Parties — Visit the Mount — Description of a Chapel to the Virgin — Safety of Palanqueen-bearers — Visit to a Convent of Nuns, who sell Artificial and Wax Flowers and Fruits — The Holy Sisterhood not Fair Traders — Conversation on Politics — Convent in confusion — Nun Imprisoned — Donna Maria's Colour — Description of Funchal — Merchants' Houses — Variety of Climate — Fruit and Seed Purchased — Return on Board — Departure. The ship in which I embarked left England in the August of the year 1829. Her ultimate destination was Van Dieman's Land, but she took out many passengers for the new Settlement of the Swan River ; those for Van Dieman's Land having preferred her route to enable them to compare and judge of the advantages offered by the two colonies.

This ship, then, duly laden, left London, as I LOSS OF CATTLE. said before, in the August of twenty-nine. She was filled with passengers, carrying with them all that was necessary for such an undertaking. She did not, however, at first appear to speed well, but lingered about the British shores, as if either unwilling or unable to leave them. Her sides were encumbered with fodder for the cattle, of which a boisterous sea soon lightened her, and, at the same time, so tossed the little bark, that many of the horses, cows, and sheep, notwithstanding their apparently comfortable habitations, were bruised to death and thrown overboard. Relieved from a portion of her load, and heedless of the disappointments and sorrows thus occasioned, she glided over the water, and showed herself, as she really was, a pretty sea-boat.

The weather, as we proceeded, was remark ably fine, and nothing for some days occurred of any moment except the meeting and speak ing the ship Mary, from Trinidad. With her we exchanged beef and potatoes for cocoa-nuts ISLAND OF MADEIRA and cocoa, as being much more agreeable in a warm latitude. On the lst of September we anchored in Funchal Roads, off the beautiful island of Madeira, seventeen days from our taking leave of the British shores at Portsmouth. Officers of health immediately came alongside to inquire if all were well, which, being an swered in the affirmative, permission was given to go on shore. Early the next morning the pent-up passen gers hastened to obtain a firm footing under them, to enjoy the delicious verdure of the island, and the comforts and conveniences of the habitations on shore.

As is, I believe, usual on such occasions, they divided into parties, each party arranging and adopting plans for living and seeing the country, according to their different means or desires of economy. We proceeded to an hotel, where breakfast was ordered, on terms which in England would be considered moderate, but which, when it appeared, afforded a favourable specimen of EXCURSION TO THE MOUNT. the plenty and cheapness of this beautiful island. It consisted of tea and coffee, with a variety of cakes and bread, eggs, fish, and beef-steaks ; oranges, grapes, peaches, and bananas. It was amusing to hear the differ ent passengers express their opinions of their fare, all agreeing to note down, for the benefit of future visiters, that the beef-steaks were the tenderest and best ever eaten. The remain der of the day was passed in expatiating upon the delightful sensations of being on shore, in walking through the town, and in making arrangements for the best mode of seeing the country.

The principal party agreed to rise by dawn the next day and ascend the Mount (considered the most beautiful spot of Fun chal) in palanqueens. A brilliant morning favoured their enterprise, and the ladies, de lighted with their novel mode of conveyance, accompanied by the gentlemen on horses and mules, set forward. The ascent is very steep, up a flagged road, with a wall on each side, forming an enclosure to the various country- CHAPEL TO THE VIRGIN. houses surrounding the town. These stone walls are overhung with the most beautiful creepers and other plants ; among which a great variety of fusia in elegant clusters adorn the whole way. The confined view occasioned by these walls was at first very tantalizing ; but frequent openings to a most beautiful prospect soon reconciled us to the temporary privation.

At length we reached the summit of the moun tain, where the aspect of a luxuriant garden, bounded by the sea, spread itself beneath our feet. On the highest point of what is called the Mount there is a chapel dedicated to the Virgin. Her followers must certainly pos sess great devotion to reconcile themselves to the variety of forms under which she is represented. Here, although the paramount and almost only object, she \s frights ul. An adjoining apartment is hung with offerings from mariners saved from a watery grave by her protection. On the ceiling of the chapel is the beautiful ejaculation of the Psalmist, in PALANQUEEN-BEARERS. Latin : " I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help." This was doubtless an inspired view of the coming Mes siah. How, then, can the wise and good of the Romish faith endeavour to make it fami liar to the eye of sense by placing a house on a hill containing such an image, to say no thing of the false doctrine of transferring to the Virgin that which relates alone to the Redeemer ?

We stopped at this chapel some time, in order to enjoy every possible point of view, as well as to rest and refresh the weary palan queen-bearers. At length we began the de scent, at times frightfully dangerous, but the men are too much accustomed to it to make a false step. With the perspiration stream ing from them, they descend cautiously, one singing a native song, in which they all join chorus. We returned to the hotel, made our arrangements for the following day, and retired early to repose. Next morning, after breakfast, we set out CONVENT OF NUNS. to visit a Convent of Nuns, who support their establishment by preserving fruit, and making artificial flowers and wax fruit, for sale. We were told it was not too far to walk, but found it very disagreeable to toil up a flagged ascent, between the walled enclosures, under a burning sun.

On reaching the building we asked admit tance of a priest loitering under the portico. On such occasions, although the sight of a .stranger is at all times agreeable, it is quite according to rule to make a mystery and favour of allowing you to enter. The priest whom we addressed spoke to a boy in a cleri cal habit, who was sent to a second, who con ferred with a third, who, after some delay, approached us, bearing a huge bunch of keys, from which we inferred we should be per mitted to see the convent. Following our guide, we ascended a staircase which led to a moderately-sized unfur nished apartment, with a grating on one side, looking into the sanctum of the nuns. Three elder sisters then approached the grating, and DON MIGUEL. produced various specimens of their art ; but, with lives devoted to religious duties, they manifested a very worldly spirit in the way of trade.