Egypt, and Mohammed Ali; or, Travels in the Valley of the Nile

Front matter

The poor inhabitant beholds in vain The redd'ning orange and the swelling grain : Joyless he sees the growing oils and wines, And in the myrtle's fragrant shade repines : Starves, in the midst of nature's bounty curst, And in the loaded vineyard dies of thirst.*' Addison. London ; Printed by A. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square. EGYPT, AND MOHAMMED ALI; OR, TRAVELS IN THE VALLEY OF THE NILE. BY JAMES AUGUSTUS ST. JOHN. SITK 07 CIIŒNOOOSCION. IN TWO VOLUMES. — VOL. I. LONDON: LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1834. TO THE REV. VERE MONRO, THE FOLLOWING VOLUMES ARE INSCRIBED, BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND AND FELLOW-TRAVELLER, THE AUTHOR. A

Introduction

. I. Egypt, from its geographical position and com mercial importance, has in all ages acted a conspicuous part in the history of the world. No surprise can therefore be felt at the profound interest which the learned and ingenious part of mankind have always experienced in whatever concerns its ancient monu ments or actual condition. In the most remote ages, we behold the Patriarchs, attracted by its fertility and abundance, abandon their own country to sojourn in this land. Hither, likewise, travelled the sages and philosophers of Greece, not perhaps, as is commonly supposed, to study wisdom under Egyptian masters ; but to make their own observations on its government, policy, arts, sciences, and the extremely peculiar character, which its inhabitants, while they subsisted as a nation, continued to manifest in all their actions.

From those remote periods to the present, though the Egyptian race has long disappeared from among mankind, and their language become an enigma, the country they inhabited, and the monuments of grana

INTRODUCTION.

. deur and power which they left behind, have been an object of untiring curiosity ; and to this source of interest, which can never cease or diminish so long as the history of the arts shall be thought worthy of attention, another, of a more popular nature, has now been added, in the political and moral revolution commenced by Mohammed Ali. A despot, destitute of the resources supplied by study, and an enlarged knowledge of mankind, relying solely on his own rude genius, and the hints furnished by his personal experience, has manifested the design, not merely to found a dynasty, — which in the East would be nothing new ; — but at the same time to regenerate and conduct into the track of European civilisation, a people de moralised and degraded by a thousand years of poli tical servitude. But to profess and undertake are easy.

Selym, Ab-dul-Hamid, and Mahmood may justly, perhaps, obtain credit for similar projects ; but the deplorable condition of the Turkish empire is a proof that their enterprises are simply entitled to the praise of well-meaning efforts, rendered ineffectual by igno rance and want of genius. To know whether Mo hammed Ali should be ranked in the same class of projectors, we have only to observe the effects pro duced upon the country and people by his admini stration ; from which his character and intellectual endowments, — the only instruments he can possess for effecting his purposes, — will be much better ascertained, than from any tact which he may exhibit in diplomatic transactions.

INTRODUCTION.

. IX II. Many considerations connected with the above views concurred in determining me to visit Egypt. Various works had, I knew, been recently added to those bequeathed to us by former writers on its antiquities and resources ; but, upon an attentive examination of the greater number of them, I found that, on several important points, their authors seemed to possess extremely vague and imperfect information, and differed in a remarkable manner from each other. It therefore appeared, if I valued the acquisition of correct notions, and felt a repugnance to adopt, on a subject so highly interesting, ideas palpably crude and extravagant, that it was necessary to become a traveller myself, and form my own opinions on the spot. Once in the country, the desire of tracing southward, as far as possible, the footsteps of Egyptian civilisation, induced me to extend my journey into Nubia, to about the latitude of Mekka, beyond which the Nile is not navigable, and where all important monuments cease.

As I had anticipated, the result was productive of extreme gratification. The rock temples and extinct volcanoes of Nubia, — now, for the first time, explored, — the pyramids of Ghizeh, — the colossal ruins of Thebes, — the Upper and Lower Cataracts, — the savage beauties of Lake Mœris, — the rose-gardens and olive plantations of the Arsinoetic Nome, — the desert, — the Bedouins, — and, above all, the grandeur and wonderful qualities of the Nile, — united in maintaining the persuasion that, in selecting the scene of my observations, I had done well in preferring Egypt and Nubia to all other X

INTRODUCTION.

. parts of the world. Such notions, however, as I had derived from my previous studies, proved, upon ex amination, both defective and incorrect. In many respects, the country itself had changed ; for the people, projected by recent innovations into the track of improvement, appeared in many respects to be daily assimilating more and more to the nations of Europe ; still preserving, however, in this perceptible mutation, those striking peculiarities of manners and habits which characterise every Oriental people. Hitherto the innovation of Mohammed Ali might be said to have produced no beneficial external result ; but it was clear that public opinion, and the sentiments of individuals, — the roots of action, — had under gone a change. Without knowing why or wherefore, the bigoted Turk and ignorant Fellah had ceased to exhibit, in their intercourse with Europeans, that brutal contempt which is the most offensive characteristic of barbarians ; taking their tone, perhaps, from their Ruler, who, it matters little whether from partiality or policy, openly evinces, on all occasions, a respect for enlightened foreigners.

III. Immediately on my arrival, I found that Egypt was in a position truly extraordinary : the ancient landmarks had been removed ; new ideas, feelings, wants, had been generated : society, con vulsed to its centre, and reduced, as it were, to a state of fusion, seemed ready to assume any new form into which the genius of the times might mould it ; but what that new form was to be, no man, whether

INTRODUCTION.

. XI high or low, appeared competent to discover. Of those Europeans who had long resided in the country, and who might for that reason be supposed capable of communicating instruction to a stranger, numbers decried every measure adopted by the Pasha ; while others, perhaps equally competent, habitually ap plauded his conduct, explaining away what was harsh or unseemly, or justifying it upon the plea of necessity. By this means, whether I desired it or not, I was placed in the position of a judge, who listens to the pleadings of two parties ; and this continued during the whole of my stay in Egypt. Fortunately it was not necessary blindly to adopt the views of either party. The former condition of the country I had learned from historians and preceding travellers ; and, to enable me to judge of its present state, the whole land lay before me.

Leaving, therefore, the Franks and their theories, I traversed the whole valley of the Nile, from the sea to the Second Cataract, in cluding the Fayoum and the Delta, visiting the towns and villages, — those situated in the interior, and on the edge of the Desert, as well as those standing near the river, — conversing, as frequently as possible, with the poor peasant behind his plough, with the village Sheikh, with the Turkish Kiasheff; and observ ing, day after day, their dress, their dwellings, and their food. In this way, I succeeded in correcting many ideas acquired from reading and the conversation of Europeans. Here I saw, naked and undis guised, the effects of the Pasha's policy ; there was no room for mistake ; for the poor, desperate in

INTRODUCTION.

. their misery, spoke out, and made no mystery of their sentiments. But while I heard their opinions, and deeply commiserated their distress, I could not re frain from acknowledging the difficulties which sur rounded their Ruler. Was it ambition, or was it necessity, that involved him in the struggle with the Sultan, which inflicted on Egypt all the evils I witnessed ? Upon the answer to this question hinges the whole inquiry, whether the Pasha is to be con sidered a just though despotic prince, or a selfish adventurer, sacrificing wantonly the happiness of millions to his own personal aggrandisement ? and this answer I have endeavoured to give in the following work. Despising mere declamation, which, in the end, neither instructs nor persuades, I have laboured to be impartial both towards prince and people, — expressing my opinions of both with equal freedom ; for which reason, should these Travels ever fall into their hands, the probability is, that both would be equally offended.

But the traveller who bestows upon the subject before him all the pains in his power, is no way answerable for the conclusions at which he may arrive, since these must be regarded as the result necessarily produced upon his mind by the objects he beholds. And this result, and this only, if he be honest, will he ever consent to place before the world. IV. Respecting the antiquities of Egypt, the opinions which an attentive examination suggests

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII to me, will be found to differ materially from those of many former writers, whose character and abilities I, nevertheless, highly esteem. But it will be ad mitted to be the duty of a traveller faithfully to de cribe the impressions made by the objects he observes upon his own imagination, whether they resemble or not the pictures of those objects which may have been traced by others. Much appears to depend, in matters of this kind, upon the temperament and in tellectual habits ofthe observer ; and as the public will quickly discover what his temperament and habits are, they will know exactly what value they ought to set on his conjectures and decisions. The incorrect ideas concerning ancient Egypt and the Egyptians, which seem commonly to prevail, even among the learned, may partly be owing to our too great veneration for ancient authors, who would appear however to have fallen into many errors, misled by the priests, or, where their notes were deficient, by a lapse of memory, to which we all are liable ; for Diodorus insists that Herodotus relates many fables ; and whoever shall be at the pains to examine the work of the Sicilian antiquarian, will find that he also has sinned in the same spirit.

Sometimes to dissent from the opinion of these authors is, therefore, excusable. And in my inquiry into the origin and purpose of the Pyramids, I have fully availed myself of this privilege, venturing even to derive from the narrative of Hero dotus himself, proofs in support of an hypothesis directly the reverse of his own.

INTRODUCTION.

. V. In the arrangement of my Travels I have adopted the least ambitious of all forms, — that of a journal ; to which several reasons determined me : first, though greater brevity might perhaps have been attained by rejecting, after the manner of Volney, every thing of a personal nature, other and still greater inconveniences than the addition of a few pages to the work might have arisen from this plan ; for, materials so arranged have, to many, the appearance of a series of unconnected dissertations rather than a book of travels ; and thus the interest would be diminished. Secondly, having written my descriptions on the spot, while the objects were before me, or fresh in my memory, to cast them into any other shape, without destroying their resemblance to the things described, — in which consists, per haps, their only merit, — seemed hardly practicable.

Lastly, narrative, from which what personally relates to the author is not wholly excluded, seems, in works of this kind, to be the form most generally approved. Since, therefore, much is gained, and nothing need be lost, by conforming to the rules which appear to have been established by public taste, I have, as far as possible, strictly adhered to the common method, noting down daily what I saw, and the observations suggested by it. VI. For my account of the manufactories, the colleges, the schools, the harems, the history of the war in Syria, &c, I derived the materials from sources, not, perhaps, accessible to many. Chance

INTRODUCTION.

. XV threw them in my way. I was furnished by several individuals with documents and illustrations, of most of which I was permitted the free use, while at others it was necessary to glance only. Some I have been compelled, after mature consideration, wholly to sup press, lest persons to whom I consider myself deeply indebted should be compromised by their publication. But these are few ; the greater number I have in troduced, or employed as the ground-work of my statements, and their authors are entitled to my gratitude ; though to express it in any other than a general way might be injurious to their interests or their safety. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Page Pag.- Environs of the City. Ancient Ruins - - 8 Date Groves and Fruit - 9 Alexandrian Library. Camels 1 1 Malaria. Latin Convent - 12 Irrigation. Windmills. Egyptian Canals - - 13 Harris's Museum of Antiquities - - 16 Scarabæi - - - 17 Female Ornaments - - 18 Articles of the Toilette - 19 S3'mbol of Christianity. Sakti of Typhon - - 20 Apis. Isis. Osiris - - 21 Arrival at Alexandria 1 First Appearance of the City. Pasha's Palace. Pompey's Pillar. Colour ofthe Sea - -2 Entrance into Port. Bay of Aboukir. Necropolis. Arab Pilots - - - 3 Hotels. Ancient Pharos - 4 Police Regulations. Personal Embarrassment - - 5 Pharos of Ptolemy Soter. The Turban - - 6 Hair of the Negroes. Dinner Hour at Alexandria - - 7

Chapter II

The Shoonah. View of the Port - - - 22 Mareotic Lake. Cleopatra's Needles - - - 29 Lake Mareotis. Necropolis. Ancient Alexandria. Canopic Gate. Castle of the Cæsars - - - 23 Catacombs. Capt. Cotton - 30 The Desert - - - 31 Military Slaves - - 32 Entrance to the Catacombs - 33 Battle Field of 21st March. Medals and Antiquities. Volney - - - 24 Politeness of the Arabs - 25 Bazars - - - 26 Modes of Salutation. Pom- Ancient Opening - - 35 Remarks on the Hypogea of Egypt. Jackals - - 37 Cleopatra's Baths - - 39 Sheikh Ibrahim. Oriental Respect for Beards. Visit to the principal Mosque. pey's Pillar - - 27 VOL. I. a CONTENTS Page Page College. Library. Moham medan Method of learning to write - - - 41 Exile of Sheikh Ibrahim. Anecdote - - 44 Female Slave Market - - 46 Ibraham Pasha's Gardens - 47 Mareotic Wine. Vineyards of Burgundy - - 48 Arabic Manuscripts. The Koran - - - 42 Fanaticism. Jewish Butchers 43

Chapter III

of Alexandria, and the Harem - - - 56 Mohammed Ali's Palace - 49 The Author's Presentation. Boghos Ioussourf, Prime Minister - - 50 The Pasha's Letter. Evening Prayer - - 58 Personal Appearance of Mohammed Ali - - 59 Conversation with the Pasha - - - 51 Egyptian Army - - 52 Malta Gazette. " The Con- Habits. Amusements - 60 Mode of employing his Time 61 J Activity. Manners and Chastitutionnel." Newspaper Influence - - 53 racter - - - 62 Gardens of Shoubra. The Pasha's Autobiography. The Mamalooks - - 55 Pasha's Wife. Toussoun Pasha - - - 63 Permission to visit the Forts

Chapter IV

Modes of Travelling to Cairo. Departure from Alexandria 64 Bedouin Tents - - 65 A Mirage. Mohammedan Cenotaph. Sand Drift - 66 Canopus. Village of Aboukir 67 Turning the Sea into Lake Mareotis. Aspect of the Desert. - - 67 Canopic Mouth of the Nile. Lake Edko. Arab Boatmen 68 Rice Mills and Tannery. Famine of 1829 - - 77 Departure from Rosetta. Reverend Vere Monro. Mr. Barker, Consul-general - - - 79 Route through the Desert. Banks of the Nile. Abundance of Game - - 80 Pass into the Delta. A Breakfast. Arab Butchers 81 Immodest Costume. Ferry over the Nile - - 82 Fertility of the Delta. Game. Sheikh's Tomb. Extraor- The Caravanserai - - 69 Interview with a Turk. Prevalence of Vermin - - 70 Party of Bedouins. Heavy Rain. Road to Rosetta - 71 Wreck of an EngUsh Vessel. Arab Well - - 72 Approach to Rosetta.

Date Palms - - - 73 Description of the City. First View ofthe Nile - 74 -Gardens of Rosetta. Oriental dinary Sycamore Tree. Nile Water. Fouah - 83 Tarboosh Manufactory. Zaboots - - - 84 Caps - - 85 Landscapes in the Delta. Arab and Nubian Boats - 86 Villages and Tombs of Saints. Mosques. Ruins of Naucratis and Sais. Palace of Apries - - - 87 Promenades. Volney - 75 Pharaoh's Fig Tree. View ofthe Delta. Telegraph - CONTENTS XIX Page Page The Labyrinth. Athens not an Egyptian Colony - 88 Neith or Minerva - - 89 Kafr Diami. Immodest Prac- CombinedEffects of Heat and Humidity. Shubr-es-Shawieh - - - 99 Land of Goshen. The Beni tices ofthe Natives - - 90 Mimosa Tree. Roads and Israel. Hedge Coffee-house 99 Road-side Breakfast. Effects Bridges - - - 91 The Egyptian Buffalo. Anecdote - - 92 Tookh-el-Nassara.

Visit from of the Pasha's Coffee Monopoly - - - 99 Finjan, or Arab Coffee-cup. Conserve of Dates - 100 Distant View of the Pyramids 101 Arrival at Shoubra. Pasha's a Sheikh. Ingenious Mode of Self-introduction - 93 Appearance of an Arab Village by Night - - 94 Shibin el Kom. Quarrel be- Palace and Gardens - 102 Magnificent Approach toCairo. Imposing Aspect ofthe City. Place Esbekeyah, Palaces, &c. - - - 103 Motley Appearance of the Caireens - - - 104 tween the Natives - - 95 Tattooing. Canals of Tanta and Harinen - - 96 Fine Scenery. Misgovern- Hotel del Giardino - - 104 ment - - - 97 Damiatta Branch of the Nile 98

Chapter V

P Village and Dance ofthe Alme 105 Fondness of Europeans for this Amusement. Sha'arah, gerie. Lioness afflicted with Ophthalmia - - 118 Curiosity of the Armenians. Introduction to the Go verthe Eleusis of Modern Egypt. Age and personal Appearance of the Dancers 106 Excitement produced by Coffee. Sumptuous Dress and Ornaments - - 107 nor of Cairo. His personal Appearance - - 121 A lineal Descendant of the Prophet - - 121 View from the Terrace of the Citadel - - 122 The Mint. Experiments of M. D'Arcet - - 123 Currency of Egypt. " Well of Joseph" - - - 124 Murder of an Armenian. Fatal Accident - - 126 Translation Committee. Dialogue with a Fakir - - 127 Printing Office - - 129 Arabian Manuscripts. Council Chamber. A merry Turk - - 130 Egyptian Parliament - 130 The Harem. Pasha's Drawing-room - - 131 Young Mamalook.

The Pasha's Children - - 132 Shakspeare's Portrait of Cressid. Description and Performances of the principal Dancer - - 108 Song of the Alme. "The Night, the Night" - - 111 Lady Montague. Reflections 112 Song, — "MyHeart is in the Desert Vale"." Osman Effendi 113 Greek and Roman Dancing Girls. Horace and Juvenal 1 14 Bayaderes or Nautch Girls of Hindoostan. Pezawink Turk Bashi, or Captain of the Courtezans - - 115 ..; Oriental Music. Morals of the Caireens - - 116 The Citadel. Pasha's Menaa XX CONTENTS. Page Page Visit to a Mosque. Saladin's Palace - - - 133 Mausoleum - - 135 Tomb of Eloisa and Abelard, Tombs of the Pasha's Family 134 and the Countess Demidofl' 13C

Chapter VI

Manners of the Santons. Locke. Baumgarten - 137 Egyptian Swallow. Depravity of the Santons. Civilization of Egypt - - 138 Palm Groves. Sublimity of the Pyramids. Beauty of the Memphian Plain - 144 Approach to the Pyramids 145 Bedouin Guides. Abund- Coldness of the Nights in Lower Egypt. Cities ofthe ■ East - - - 139 rj— Arab Cleanliness at Cairo - 140 First Visit to the Pyramids. Appearance of Cairo by Night - - 141 Improvements of Ibrahim Pasha. Masr el Atikeh. ance of Game - - 146 The Sphynx. Volney. Temples of Venus - - 147 Ancient Travellers - - 148 Ascent of the Great Pyramid 149 View from the Summit - 151 Death of Maze - - 152 Descent into the Interior - 153 The King's Chamber - - 154 The Queen's Chamber. Da- Great Aqueduct. Absurd Story. Tower of the Ni lometer. . Groves of Rhou dah - - - 142 vison's Chamber - - 155 Egyptian Agates - - 156 Gratitude ofthe Arab Guides. Beautiful Prospect. Dhourra Sefi, its extraordinary Powers of Increase - - 143 — Sunset - - - 157 Return to Cairo - - 158

Chapter VII

Palace of Ahmed Pasha - 159 Gardens of Shoubra - - 160 Comparison between the Nejdi and Hungarian Horse 1 63 The " Hassan Breed." The Baths - - - 161 Pasha's Country House. Menagerie. Stud - - 162 Description and Value of a genuine Arab - - 163 Horse of Dongola - - 164 Picketing Horses. Its injurious Effect - - 165

Chapter VIII

Description of a Kandjia, or decked Boat. Departure from Boolak - - 166 Monro. Habit of travelling 167 Arab Boatmen - - 168 Politeness to English Travellers. A Night upon the Nile - - - 169 Mosquitos - - - 170 Tracking - - - 171 Anecdote of Hajji Suleiman, the Author's Interpreter 172 Appearance of the Arabian Mountains ' - - 173 Quarries of El Massara. Immense Chambers - - 174 Ancient Road. Hieroglyphic Inscription - - 176 rrice of Provisions. Storms on the Nile - - CONTENTS. XXI Page Page Diodorus Siculus. Loss of Ahmed Pasha's Barge - 177 The Siksak ' and the Croco- False Pyramid. Atarbechis. Robbers on the Nile - - 184 El Wuddi. Jackals. Good-nature ofthe Arabs - 186 dile - - - 178 — ' Curiosity of the Arabs. Ta- Curious Phenomenon. Navigation ofthe Nile - - 187 Bedouin Village of Iksoor.

Despotism - - 188 Extraordinary printed Order ofthe Pasha - - 190 Swiss Mercenaries. Arab tooing ... 179 4^ Forms of the Women. Caireens and the Peasantry - 180 Illustration of Herodotus. Prejudice respecting Game 181 The Evil Eye. Islands in the Nile - - - 182 Thieves - - - 192 Thoughts of Home - - 193 Col. Leake's Map. Pelicans, Beauty of their Plumage - 183

Chapter IX

Gezireh el Zarateen - - 194 Avalanches on the Nile - 195 Dangerous Situation of my Kandjia - - - 196 El Kotoreh. Quarrel with the Natives - - - 198 Effect of the Pasha's Firman. Treasures. False Pyra mid - - - 206 Curious Superstition. Cure for Leprosy. Arabian Mountains. Heptanomis - 207^ Moslem Fakirs. Cheapness of Bread - - - 208 Ravenous Appetite. Boulimia. Arab Gratitude. Sand Storm - - 199 Cotton Plantations - - 202 Wild Beasts. Alluvial Soil of Egypt - - - 203 Fish of the Nile. Mounds of Modesty of the Women. **•» Rarity of Cats - - 209 Bubastis, or Diana Lucina - 210 Boosh. Island in the Nile - 211 Ophthalmia. Grave of a murdered Man - - 212 Mode of depositing the Body 213 Arab Shipwrights. Benisooef. Barracks - - 213 Athorbaki - - 204 Doulab el Halfah. Neslet Abdallah. Col. Leake's Map 204 Village of Sohl. Visit to the Kiasheff - - - 205 Pasha's Enlistments. Bedouin Cavalier. Hidden

Chapter X

Mountain Scenery. Health. Changes of the Atmosphere 220 Pleasures of Travelling. Breezes on the River. Bazar. Egyptian Cavalry - 215 Contrasts of Costume. Cheapness of Provisions - 216 Cavalry Officers. Sugar Plantations - - - 217 Doves. Arab Shepherds. Watch Towers. Bain - 218 Sites of Baranga and Beni Maada. Castellated Dove- Herodotus - - 221 Rainbows. Beautiful Landscape. Sources of the Picturesque - - - 222 Subjects for the Pencil. Date Groves of the Heptanomis. Rookeries. Arab Games 223 houses. Turkeys. Magni- * ficent Bend of the River - CONTENTS Page Page Straw Boats - - - 224 Baris, or Sacred Boat. Kteis Phallus - - - 236 Grashoppers. Scarabæus - 225 /Complexion of the Natives. Of the ancient Egyptians 226 _ Abyssinian Girls. Fondness of the ancient Egyptians for Fish. Herodotus - 227 Ancient Boat for removing Stones.

Salt. Monolithic Temples - - - 237 Kolocosaneh Dancing Girls 239tj Turkish Mode of travelling. Mountain of Birds. Egyptian Plough - - 240 Arab Vituperation. Catacombs 241 Flights of Cormorants, &c. Armed Bedouins. Tom- Splendid Sunset - - 228 Nile Robbers. Barbarous Punishment. Conflagra tions on the Plain - 229 Remains of Bedouin Encampment. Arms of the Arabs - - 231 perature of the Air - 242 Tuscan Galley Slaves. Eagles. Gebel et Teir. Saracenic Arab Mode of Spinning. Beautiful Sunset - - 232 Archway. Roman Ruins. Statue of Isis. Teheneh. Site of Cynopolis. Anubis 233 Rock Chambers - - 235 Site of Achoris - - 243

Chapter XI

Necropolis of Achoris. Greek Ptolemaic Inscription - 244 Sepulchral Chambers. Ancient Chapel - - 245 Symbols of Knuphis, Isis, and Osiris - - 246 Miniature Egyptian Pantheon. Ascent of the painted Chambers. M. Champollion - - 253 , Domestic habits of the ancient Egyptians - - 254 "Cave of Diana." Village Cemetery - . 255 TheGoddessBubastis. " Cave of Artemis." RockTemples 256 Antinoopolis. Pasha's Sugar Refinery. Ignorant Prejudices of the Mohammedans. Price and Quality of the Sugar - ' - 257 Rum Distillery. Bahr Youssouff "... 258 Beautiful Scene. Manfaloot. Mountain - - 247 Excavated Tank. Roman Bassi-rilievi - - 248 Castor and Pollux. Necropolis of Achoris. Heat of the Weather on Christmas-day. Brown Eagle - 249 Site of Cynopolis. Breadth of the Nile. Cheapness of Bread - - - 250 Coffee-houses and Dancing Girls.

Dwellings of Pilgrims - - - 251 City of Minieh. The Speos Artemidos of D'Anville. Crocodile eaten by the Nubians. Hypothesis of Hamilton - . 259 Beautiful Scenery. Moonlight - . .261 Arab Story-tellers - - 263 Libyan Range of Mountains. Acacia Groves. Affecting Parting of an Arab Family 264 y Sepulchral Monuments - 252 Egyptian Triad. Ancient CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Page Page Sunday. Primitive Habits of the Fellahs - - 266 and Bedouin. Coptic Con vent. Sexcenties of the Encroachment of the Desert. Romans - - 282 Market-day at Es-Serat. Large-tailed Sheep. Herodotus ... 283 DisgustingMode of slaughtering Cattle. Prevalence of Ophthalmia. Buffalo's Milk 284 Crocodile. Ibises. Sycamore. Girgeh, former Capital of Upper Egypt - 285 Perfumed Atmosphere. Sir Fred. Henniker. Beauty, Fertility, and Climate ofthe Thebaid. Inundation. Dews _*_ Treatment of Women - 267 Early Marriages. Charcoal ofthe Acacia Tree. Woods of the Desert - - 268 Personal Habits of the Fellahs. Utility not an object with the ancient Egyptians - - 269 Mohammed Ali. The Pharaohs and Ptolemies. The Heron and Horned Owl. Tahta. Islands of the Nile. Gau-el-Keber, the ancient Antæopolis - - 270 Slave Vessel - - 271 Winds upon the Nile - 273 Soohaj, the ancient Crocodilopolis. - - 274 Ekhmim.

Panopolis. The God Chemmis - - 275 Prodigious Blocks of Stone. Denon. Mountain Lake. of Egypt - - 286 Abydos. Painted Chambers 289 Ancient Chapel. Hieroglyphical Inscriptions - 290 Ruins ofthe Palace of Memnon. Strabo. Henniker 294 Tombs. Fragments of Mummies. Mausoleum - 296 Drovetti. Fate of Grave Robbers in England - 297 Models of Temples. Pigmy Images. Herodotus. - 297 Attempt to kidnap the Captain of my Boat - - 298 Interview with the Governor Belzoni. Coptic Convent 277 Population of Ekhmim - 278 Lord Aberdeen and thePasha. Cheapness of Provisions. Nile Water - - 279 Scriptural Mode of watering the Fields. Doum Tree - 280 of Bellianeh - - 299 Summary Mode of Punishment 299 Ptolemais Hermii - - 281 Physiognomy of the Turk XIII. CHAPTER Description of the Temple, The Pronaos. The Columns Diospolis Parva, or Lesser Thebes.

Landscape. Ruins of Chœnoboscion - - 303 312 Enormous Crocodiles, — impervious to Balls - - 304 Dendera. Tentyris - - 305 Venus; various Hypotheses concerning her Nature. Jablonski. Orion. Hesychius 308 The Egyptian Athor. Herodotus. Hesiod. Sacred Capitals. Mythological Paintings. The Sekos Symbolical Sculpture. Venus Panderaos. Saulnier. 314 Lelorrain 315 Isis and Osiris. Human Sacrifices 317 Immolation of red-haired Men Diodorus Siculus 318 Cows - - - CONTENTS Page Page Bearings of the Temple. Lieut. Welsted, R.N. - 318 Head of Typhon. Typhonium 319 Arab Vice-Consul at Gheneh. PilgrimagetoMekka. Chaplets of Beads. Gheneh perfumed Jars - - 322 Visit to the Governor. Courtesy to Englishmen - 323 Rosy Tint of the Mountains. Dr. Hogg. Papyri. Mummies. Hatching Crocodiles 324 Maximinianopolis.

Copts of Negadeh - - - 325 Shells from the Red Sea. Pasha's Military Surgeon. Recruiting for the Army - - - 320 Bazar of Gheneh. Moggrebyn, Ababde, and Bisharein Arabs. The Burnoose 321

Chapter XIV

Approach to Thebes. First View of the Ruins - 326 Quarries of Hajjar Silsilis. Apollinopolis Magna - 340 Current of the Nile. Haunts Karnak. Luxor. Gournou. Twilight in Egypt. Vocal Statue. Site of Thebes. Indian Officers - - 328 of Crocodiles - - 341 Beauty of the Nights. Brilliancy of the Stars - 342 Romantic Encampment. " Rock of the Chain" - 343 Legend of the Curlew. Navigation of the Nile - 344 Island of Elephantine. Es- Souan ... 345 Nilometer. Belzoni. Strabo 347 Kneph. Creuzer. Magnificent Prospect - - 348 Statue of Osiris. Antiquities 349 Natives of the Elephantine. Henniker. Richardson - 350 Arab Curiosities and Amulets. King of the Crocodiles - 329 Mode of Irrigation. Kharwah, or Castor-oil Plant - 330 Oriental Justice. Anecdote of two English Travellers. Esneh. Goddess Bouto. Magnificent Ruins - 331 Temple of Latopolis.