An Account of Expeditions to the sources of the Mississippi and through the Western parts of Louisiana, to the sources of the Arkansaw, Kans, La Platte, and Pierre Jason, rivers; performed by order of the Government of the United States, during the years 1805-1807; and a tour through the...

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AN ACCOUNT OF EXPEDITIONS TO THE sources of tjje $$i$&tesim, AND THROUGH THE WESTERN PARTS OF LOUISIANA, TO THE SOURCES OF THE ARKANSAW, KANS, LA PLATTE, AND PIERRE JAUN, RIVERS; PERFORMED BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES DURING THE YEARS 1805, 1806, AND 1807. AND A TOUR THROUGH THE INTERIOR PARTS OF NEIV SPAIN, WHEN CONDUCTED THROUGH THESE PROVINCES, ET ORDER OF THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL, IN THE YEAR 1807. r By Major Z. M. PIKE. ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AjYD CHARTS. PHILADELPFIIA: PUBLISHED BY C. & A. CONRAD, & Co. No. 30, CHESNUT STREET. SOMER VELL & CONRAD, PETERSBURGH. BONSAL, COJJRAD, 6c Co. NORFOLK AND FIELDING LUCAS, Jr.. BALTIMORE. John Binrrs, Printer. ,...1810. DISTRICT OF PEJVJVSYLVAJVIA, to wit : BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the seventh day of June, in the thirty-second year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1808, Z. M. Pike of the said district, hath deposited in this office, the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as au thor, in the words following, to wit : " An account of expeditions to the sources of the Mississippi, and through the western parts of Louisiana, to the sources of the Arkan saw, Kans, La Platte, and Pierre Jaun, rivers.

Performed by order of the government of the United States, during the years 1805, 1806, and 1807. And a tour through the interior parts ofJVew Spain, when conducted through these provinces, by order of the captain-general in the year 1807. By major Z. M. Pike. Illustrated by maps and charts." In conformity to the Act of* Congress of the United States, in tituled, " An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the Copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Pro prietors of such Copies during the times therein mentioned." And also to the Act, entitled " An Act supplementary ?to an Act, en titled, " An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the Copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprie tors of such Copies during the time therein mentioned," and ex tending the Benefits thereof to the Arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other Prints."

D. CALDWELL, Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania. TO THE PUBLIC. BOOKS os travels, journals and voyages, have become so numerous, and are so frequently impositions on the public, that the writer of the following sheets feels under an obligation to explain, in some measure, the original circumstances that led to the produc tion of this volume. Soon after the purchase of Louisiana, by an enlightened administration, measures were taken to explore the then unknown wilds of our western country, measures founded on principles of scientific pursuits, combined with a view of entering into a chain of philantrophic arrangements for meliorating the con dition of the Indians who inhabit those vast plains and deserts. His excellency, Merriwether Lewis, then a captain of the first regiment of infantry, was selected by the President of the United States, in con junction with capt. C. Clarke, to explore the then unknown usources of the Missouri, and I was chosen to trace the Mississippi to its source, with the objects in view contemplated by my instructions ; to which I conceived my duty, as a soldier should induce me, to add an investigation into the views of the British traders in that quarter, as to trade, and an enquiry into the limits of the territories of the United States and Great Britain.

Part I. Journal Of

A VOYAGE, TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806. SAILED from my encampment, near St. Louis, at 4 o'clock P. M. on Friday, the 9th August 1805: with one sergeant, two corporals, and seventeen privates, in a keel boat, 70 feet long, provisioned for four months : wa ter very rapid : encamped on the east side of the river, at the head of an island. 10th August; Saturday — Embarked early; breakfasted opposite to the mouth of the Missouri, near Wood creek. About 5 o'clock P. M. a storm came on from the westward ; the boat lay too ; having gone out to march with two men behind a cluster of islands, one of my sol diers swam a channel, in the night, to inform me that the boat had stopt during the storm. I remained on the beach all night. Distance 28 1-2 miles. 11th August ; Sunday — In the morning the boat came up and stopt opposite to the Portage De Sioux.

We here spread out our baggage to dry j discharged our guns A at a target, and scaled out our blunderbusses. Dined at the cave below the Illinois, at the mouth of which river, we remained some time. From the course of the Mississippi, the Illinois might be mistaken for a part of it. Encamped on the lower point of an island, about 6 miles above the Illinois ; were much detained by passing the east side of some islands above the Illinois ; and were obliged to get into the water and haul the boat through. 12th August ; Monday — In the morning made seve ral miles to breakfast ; about 3 o'clock P. M. passed Buf faloe, or riviere au Bœuf, above which, about 5 miles, commences a beautiful cedar cliff, having passed this, the river expands to nearly two miles in width, and has four islands, whose lowest points are nearly parallel ; these we called the four brothers ; encamped on the point of the E. one.

It rained very hard all night j caught one cat fish. Distance 29 3-4 miles. 13//. August ; Tuesday — Late before we sailed, pas sed a vast number of islands ; left one of our dogs on shore ; were much detained by sand bars, and were obliged to haul our boat over several of them ; observed seve ral encampments which had been lately occupied : rained all day. Distance 27 miles. 14//6 August ; Wednesday — Hard rain in the morning, but a sine wind springing up, we put off at 1-2 past 6 o'clock ; passed a camp of Sacs, consisting of 3 men, with their families : they were employed in spearing and scaffolding a fish, about 3 feet in length, with a long flat snout ; they pointed out the channel, and prevented us from taking the wrong one : I gave them a small quan tity of whiskey and biscuit ; and they in return, presented me with some fish.

Sailed on through a continuation of islands, for nearly twenty miles ; met a young gentleman, (Mr. Robedoux) by whom I sent a letter to St. Louis ; encamped on an island; caught 1375 small fish ; rained all day. Distance 28 miles. \5th August ; Thursday — Still raining in the morn ing. From the continued series of wet weather, the men were quite galled and sore. Met a Mr. Kettletas of N. Y. who gave me a line to Mr. Fisher of the Prairie Des Chein ; passed a small river, to the W. with a sand bar at its entrance ; also, passed Salt river, which, I do not recollect having seen on any chart : it is a considerable stream, and at high water is navigable, for at least 200 miles ; left another dog. Distance 26 miles. 1 6th August ; Friday — Embarked early, but were so unfortunate, as to get fast on a log ; and did not ex tricate ourselves, until past 1 1 o'clock, having to saw off a log under the water.

At 3 o'clock P. M. arrived at the house of a Frenchman, situate on the W. side of the river, opposite to Hurricane island. His cattle appeared to be in fine order ; but his corn in a bad state of culti vation. About one mile above his house, on the . W. shore, is a very handsome hill, which he informed me was level on the top, with a gradual descent on either side, and a fountain of fine water. This man likewise told me that two men had been killed on the Big Bay, or Three Brothers ; and desired to be informed what measures had been taken in consequence thereof; caught three cat-fish and one perch ; encamped 4 miles above the house. Distance 18 miles. nth August ; Saturday — Embarked and came on re markably well ; at 10 o'clock stopt for breakfast, and in order to arrange our sail ; when the wind served, we put off and continued under easy sail all day.

Passed three batteaux. Distance 39 miles. 1 8th August ; Sunday — Embarked early ; about 1 1 o'clock passed an Indian camp, on the E. side. They fired several guns ; but we passed without stopping. Very hard head winds part of the day. Caught six fish. — Distance 23 miles. 19th August; Monday — Embarked early and made fine way ; but at 9 o'clock in turning the point of a sand bar, our boat struck a sawyer ; at the moment we did not know it had injured her ; but in a short time after, discovered her to be sinking, however, by thrusting oakum into the leak and bailing, we got her to shore on a bar, where, after entirely unloading, we with great difficulty keeled her sufficiently to cut out the plank and put in a new one. This at the time I conceived to be a great misfortune ; but upon examination we discovered that the injury resulting from it was greater than we were at first induced to believe ; for upon inspection, we found our provisions and cloathing considerably damaged.

The day was usefully and necessarily employed in assorting, suning, and airing those articles. One of my hunters (Sparks) having gone on shore to hunt, swam the river about 7 miles above and killed a deer ; but finding we did not come on, he returned downthe river, and joined us by swimming. Whilst we were at work at our boat on the sand beach, three canoes with' Indians, passed on the opposite shore. They cried, " How do j ou do," wishing us to give them an invitation to come over ; but receiving no answer they passed on. We then put our baggage on board and put off, designing to go where the young man had killed the deer ; but after dark we became entangled among the sand bars, and were obliged to stop and encamp on the point of a beach. Caught two fish. Distance 14 miles. 20//j August ; Tuesday — Arrived at the foot of the rapids De Moyen at 7 o'clock ; and, although no soul on board had passed them, we commenced ascending them, immediately.

Our boat, being large and moderately loaded, we found great difficulty. The river all the way through is from 3-4 to a mile wide. The rapids are 1 miles long, with successive ridges and shoals extending from shore to shore. The first has the greatest fall and is the most difficult to ascend. The channel (a bad one) is on the east side in passing the two first bars, then passes un der the edge of the third ; crosses to the west, and ascends on that side, all the way to the Sac Village. The shoals continue the whole distance. We had passed the first and most difficult shoal, when we were met by Mr. Wm. Ewing, (who I understand is an agent, appointed to reside with the Sacs, to teach them the science of agriculture) with a French interpreter, 4 chiefs and 15 men of the Sac nation, in their canoes ; bearing a flag of the United States.

They came down to assist me up the ra pids ; and took out 13 of my heaviest barrels, and put two of their men in the barge to pilot us up. Arrived at the house of Mr. Ewing, opposite the village, at dusk. The land on both sides of the rapids is hilly, but a rich soil. Distance 16 miles. 21st August ; Wednesday — All the chiefmen of the village came over to my encampment ; where I spoke to them to the following purport : " That their great father, the president of the Uni ted'States, wishing to be more intimately acquainted with the situation, wants, &c. of the different nations of the red people, in our newly acquired territory of Louisiana, had ordered the general to send a number of his young warriors, in different directions, to take them by the hand, and make such enquiries as might afford the satisfaction required.

Also, that I was authorised to choose situations for their trading establishments ; and wished them to inform me if that place would be considered by them as central. " That I was sorry to hear of the murder, which had been committed on the river below ; but, in conside ration of their assurances, that it was none of their nation, and the anxiety exhibited by them on the occasion, I had written to the general and informed him of what they had said on the subject. " That in their treaty, they engaged to apprehend all traders who came amongst them without license ; for that time, I could not examine their traders on this sub ject ; but, that on my return, I would make a particular examination. " That if they thought proper, they might send a young man in my boat, to inform the other villages of my mission, &c." I then presented them with some tobacco, knives, and whiskey.

They replied to the following purport : " That they thanked me for the good opinion I had of their nation, and for what I had written the general. That themselves, their young warriors, and the whole nation was glad to see me amongst them. " That as for the situation of the trading houses, they could not determine, being but a part of the nation. With respect to sending a young man along, that, if I would wait until to-morrow, they would choose one out. And finally, thanked me for my tobacco, knives, and whiskey." Not wishing to loose any time, after writing to the general* and my friends, I embarked and made six miles above the village. Encamped on a sand bar. One canoe of savages passed. 22d August ; Thursday — Embarked at 5 o'clock A. M. hard head winds. Passed a great number of islands.

The river very wide and full of sand bars. Distance 23 miles. 23d August; Friday — Cool morning; came on 5 1-4 miles, where, on the west shore, there is a very * See" appendix to part I," [No. i] page l. handsome situation for a garrison. The channel of the river passes under the hill, which is about 60 feet perpen dicular, and level on the top. Four hundred yards in the rear, there is a small prairie of 8 or 10 acres, which would be a convenient spot for gardens ; and on the east side of the river, there is a beautiful prospect over a large prairie, as far as the eye can extend, now and then interrupted by groves of trees. Directly under the rock is a limestone spring, which, after an hour's work, would afford water amply sufficient for the consumption of a regiment. The landing is bold and safe, and at the lower part of the hill, a road may be made for a team in half an hour.

Black and white oak timber in abundance. The mountain con tinues about two miles, and has five springs bursting from it in that distance. Met four Indians and two squaws ; land ed with them ; gave them one quart of made whiskey, a few biscuit and some salt. I requested some venison of them, they pretended they could not understand me ; but after we had left them, they held up two hams, and hal looed and laughed at us in derision. Passed nine horses on shore, and saw many signs of Indians. Passed a hand some prairie on the east side, and encamped at its head. Three batteaux from Michilimackinac ; stopped at our eamp, we were told they were the property of Mr. Myers Michals ; we were also informed, that the largest Sac village was about 2 1-2 miles out on the prairie ; and that this prairie was called half way to the prairie Des Cheins, from St. Louis. 24<th August ; Saturday — In the morning passed a number of islands.

Before dinner, corporal Bradley and myself took our guns and went on shore ; we got behind a savannah, by following a stream we conceived to have been a branch of the river, but which led us at least two leagues from it. My two favorite dogs, having gone out with us, gave out in the prairie, owing to the heat, high grass, and want of water ; but thinking they would come on, we continued our march. We heard the report of a gun, and supposing it to be from our boat, answered it ; shortly after, however, we passed an Indian trail, which appeared as if the persons had been hurried, I presume at the report of our guns ; for with this people, all strangers are enemies. Shortly after we struck the river, and the boat appeared in view ; stayed some time for my dogs ; two of my men volunteered to go in search of them.

Encamped on the west shore, nearly opposite to a chalk bank. My two men had not yet returned, and it was ex traordinary, as they knew my boat never waited for any person on shore : they endeavored to strike the Mississip pi ahead of us. We fired a blunderbuss at three different times} to let them know where we lay. Distance 23 1-2 miles. 25th August ; Sunday — Stopt on the sand bank prairie, on the E. side, from which you have a beautiful prospect of at least 40 miles down the river, bearing S. 38° E. Discovered that our boat leaked very fast ; but we secured her inside so completely with oakum and tallow, as nearly to prevent the leak. Fired a hlunderbuss every hour, all day, as signals for our men. Passed the river Iowa. Encamped at night on the prairie, marked Grant's prairie. The men had not yet arrived.

Distance 28 miles. 26th August ; Monday — Rain, with a very hard head wind. Towed our boat about nine miles, to where the river Hills joins the Mississippi. Here I expected to find the two men I had lost, but was disappointed. The mercury in Reamur at 13°; whereas yesterday, it was 26°. Met two peroques full of Indians, who commenced hollowing, " How do you do," &c. they then put to shore and beckoned us to do so likewise, but we continued our course. This day very severe on the men. Distance 28 1-2 miles. 21th August ; Tuesday — Embarked early ; cold N, wind ; mercury 10° ; the wind so hard ahead, that we were obliged to tow the boat all day. Passed one peroque of Indians, also the Riviere De Roche, late in the day. Some Indians who were encamped there, embarked in their canoes and ascended the river before us.

The wind so very strong, that, although down the stream, they were near sinking. Encamped about 4 miles above the Riviere De Roche, on the W. shore. This day passed a pole on a prairie, on which five dogs were hanging. Distance 22 miles. 28th August ; Wednesday — About an hour after we had embarked, we arrived at the camp of Mr. James Aird, a Scotch gentleman of Michilimackinac. He had encamped, with some goods, on the beach ; and was re pairing his boat, which had been injured in crossing the rapids of the Riviere De Roche (at the foot of which we now were.) He had sent three boats back for th: goods left behind. Breakfasted with him and obtained considerable information. Commenced ascending the rapids.... Carried away our rudder in the first ; but after getting it repaired, the wind raised, and we hoisted sail ; and, al though 'entire strangers, we sailed through them with a perfect gale blowing all the time ; when, had we struck a rock, in all probability we would have bilged and sunk.

But we were so fortunate as to pass without touching. Met with Mr. Aird's boats (which had pilots) fast on the rocks. Those shoals are a continued chain of rocks, extending in some places from shore to shore, about ( 8 miles in length. They afford more water than those of De Mo yen, but are much more rapid. 29th August ; Thursday — Breakfasted at the Reynard village, above the rapids ; this is the first village of the Reynards. 1 expected to have found my two men here, but was disappointed. Finding they had not passed, I lay by until 4 o'clock P. M. the wind fair all the time. The chief informed me, by signs, that in four days they could march to Prairie Des Cheins ; and promised to fur nish them with mockinsons, and put them on their rout. Set sail and made at least four knots an hour. I was Jis posed to sail all night, but the wind lulling, we encamped on the point of an island, on the W. shore.

Distance 20 miles. 30//. August ; Friday — Embarked at 5 o'clock ; wind fair, but not very high. Sailed all day. Passed four pe roques of Indians. Distance 43 miles. 31./ August ; Saturday — Embarked early. Passed one peroque of Indians ; also, two encampments ; one on a beautiful eminence, on the W. side of the river. This place had the appearance of an old town. Sailed almost all day. Distance 31 1-2 miles. 1st Sept. Sunday — Embarked early ; wind fair ; arrived at the lead mines at 12 o'clock. A dysentery with which I had been afflicted several days, was suddenly checked this morning ; which, I believe to have been the occasion of a very violent attack of fever about 1 1 o'clock. Notwithstanding it was very s vere, I dressed myself, with an intention to execute the orders of the general relative to this place.

We were saluted with a field piece, and received with every mark of attention, by Monsieur Du buque, the proprietor. There were no horses at the house, and it was six miles to where the mines were worked ; it was therefore impossible to make a report by actual inspection. I therefore proposed ten queries, on the answers to which my report was founded.* Dined with Mr. D. who inform ed me that the Sioux and Sauteurs were as warmly en gag d in opposition-as ever; that not long since, the for mer killed 15 Sauteurs, who on the 10th August in re- * See appendix to part I. [No. 2] page 5. turn killed 10 Sioux, at the entrance of the St. Peters; and that a war party, composed of the Sacs, Reynards, and Puants, of 200 warriors had embarked on an expe dition against the- Sauteurs, but that they had heard, that the chief having had an unfavorable dream, persuaded the party to return, and that I would meet them on my voy age.

At this place I was introduced to a chief, called the Raven of the Reynards. He made a very flowery speech on the occasion, which I answered in a few words, accompanied by a small present. I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and was about to embark, when a peroque arrived, in which they were, with a Mr. Blondeau, and two Indians, whom that gentleman had engaged above the rapids of Stony river. The two soldiers had been six days without any thing to eat, except muscles : when they met Mr. James Aird, by whose humanity and attention their strength and spirits were in a measure, restored ; and they were ena bled to reach the Reynard village, where they met wiiJi Mr. B. The Indian chief furnished them with corn and shoes, and shewed his friendship, by every possible at tention. I immediately discharged the hire of the Indians, and gave Mr. Blondeau a passage to the Prairie Des Cheins.

Left the lead mines at 4 o'clock. Distance 25 miles. 2d Sept. Monday — After making two short reaches, we commenced one, which is 30 miles in length, the wind serving, we just made it ; and encamped on the E. side op posite to the mouth of Turkey river. In the course of the day, we landed to shoot at pidgeons ; the moment a gun was fired, some Indians, who were on the shore above us, ran down and put off in their peroques with great precipitation ; upon which Mr. Blondeau informed me, that all the women and children were frightened at the ve ry name of an American boat, and that the men held us in great respect, conceiving us very quarrelsome, and much for war, and also very brave. This information I Used as prudence suggested. We stopt at an encamp ment, about three miles below the town, where they gave us some excellent plums.

They despatched a peroque to the village, to give notice, as I supposed, of our arrival. It commenced raining about dusk, and rained all night. Distance 40 miles. 3d Sept. Tuesday — Embarked at a pretty early hour. Cloudy. Met two peroques of family Indians ; they at first asked Mr. Blondeau, " if we were for war, or if going to war ?" I now experienced the good effect, of having some person on board, who could speak their language ; for they presented me with three pair of ducks, and a quantity of venison, sufficient for all our crew, one day ; in return, I made them sometrifling presents. Af terwards met two peroques, carrying some of the warriors spoken of on the 2d inst. They kept at a great distance, until spoken to by Mr. B. when they informed him that their party had proceeded up as high as Lake Pepin, without effecting any thing.

It is surprizing what a dread the In dians, in this quarter, have of the Americans : I have often seen them go round islands, to avoid meeting my boat. It appears to me evident, that the traders have ta- . ken great pains, to impress upon the minds of the savages, the idea of our being a very vindictive, ferocious, and warlike people. This impression was perhaps made with no good intention ; but when they find that our conduct towards them, is guided by magnanimity and justice ; in stead of operating in an injurious manner, it will have the effect to make them reverence at the same time they fear us. Distance 25 miles. 4//. Sept. Wednesday — Breakfasted just below the Ouiscousing. Arrived at the Prairie Des Cheins about 1 o'clock ; took quarters at capt. Fishers, and were politely received by him and Mr. Frazer. 5th Sept.

Thursday — Embarked about half past 10 o'clock in a Schenectady boat, to go to the mouth of the Ouiscousing, in order to take the latitude, and look at the situation of the adjacent hills for a post. Was accompanied by judge Fisher, Mr. Frazer, and Mr. Woods. We ascended the hill on the west side of the Mississippi ; and made choice of a spot which I thought most eligible, being level on the top, having a spring in the rear, and commanding a view of the country around. A shower of rain came on which completely wet us ; and we returned to the village without having ascended the Ouis cousing as we intended. Marked four trees with A. B. C. D. and squared the sides of one in the centre. Wrote to the general.* 6th Sept. Friday — Had a small council with the Pu ants, and a chief of the lower band of the Sioux.

Visit ed and laid out a position for a post, on a hill called the Petit Gris, on the Ouiscousing, three miles above its mouth. Mr. Fisher who accompanied me, was taken very sick, in consequence of drinking some water out of the Ouiscousing. The Puants never have any white interpreters, nor have the Fols Avoin nation. In my council, I spoke to a Frenchman, he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the Puants. 1th Sept. Saturday — My men beat all the villagers jumping and hopping. Began to load my new boats. 8th Sept. Sunday — Embarked at half past 1 1 o'clock in two batteaux. The wind fair and fresh. I found my self very much embarrassed and crampt, in my new boats, with provision and baggage. I embarked two interpreters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose name wag * S_e appendix to part I. [No. 2.] page 2.

Pierre Rosseau ; and the other named Joseph Reinulle, paid by Mr. Frazer to accompany me as high as the falls of St. Anthony. Mr. Frazer is a young gentleman, clerk to Mr. Blakely, of Montreal : he was born in Vermont, but has latterly resided in Canada. To the attention of this gentleman, I am much indebted ; he procured for me every thing in his power that I stood in need of; despatched his bark canoes, and remained himself to go on with me. His design was to winter with some of the Sioux bands. We sailed well, came 18 miles and encamped on the W. bank. I must not omit here to bear testimony to the politeness of all the principal inhabitants of the village. There is however a material distinction to be made in the nature of those attentions : The kindness of Messrs Fisher, Frazer, and Woods, (all Americans) seemed to be the spontaneous effusions of good will : and partiality to their countrymen ; it extended to the accommodation, convenience, exercises, and pastimes of my men ; and whenever they proved superior to the French, openly shewed their pleasure.