Jubilee Jottings, and a Pilgrimage to Palestine. MS. notes

Chapter I

Leave Hastings — Stormy passage — Early Winter — The Riviera — Contrasts— Genoa — J ubilee Pilgrims — Tiber in flood — First glimpse of Eternal City — Roman fly-driver — Collegio Romano — Confiscations — Christmas Eve — Singular Armenian Rite — Heavy rain — Table d'hote Babel r

Chapter II

Christmas Day — High Mass at St Peter's — Preparations for Jubilee — " Our Lady of the Snow " — Procession of Cradle— S. Stephano Rotondo — Solemn Music — Ancient Mural Paintings — Santa Cecilia — Well known figure — Ancient Paschal Candlestick — Scaldinos — San Silvestro in Capite — Relics — San John Lateran — Scripture and paintings — Wooden Altar of St. Peter — Florid music — Italian behaviour .... 6

Chapter III

A favourite quarter of Rome. — German College — The Ara Cœli — Miraculous Bambino — Picture by St. Luke — Children preaching — The English College — New Chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury — The Elizabethan Martyrs — Interview with a Cardinal — Exposition of Relics at San Silvestro — Illuminations — Clanging Bells Contents. VI

Chapter IV

Frosty morning— Crowd at Sacristy door— Jubilee Mass —Enthusiastic Reception of Leo XIII. — Moving Function— Choir of Sistine Chapel — Silver Trumpets — A united Te Detim — Crowded streets — Vespers at the Gesii — Florid Chants — More illuminations . 16

Chapter V

Piazza di Spagna — Santa Sabina — Ancient Doorway — Anecdote of Pope Pius VI. — St. Dominic's orangetree — Church of St. Gregory the Great — Chair of the Saint — Ancient speaking Picture — Church of St. Paul and St. John — Body of St. Paul of the Cross — Splendid marbles — Santa Croce in Gerusalemme — Numerous and interesting Relics— Chapels of St. Helena and St. Gregory the Great — St. Praxides — Fragment of sacred Pillar 20

Chapter VI

Jubilee present — College of Pallottinians — Father Pallotti's cell — Palazzo Farnesini — San Pietro in Montorio — Snowy mountains — Function at San Ignazio — St. Paul without the Walls — Marble columns — Papal portraits — Another Papal Mass — Near view of His Holiness — A Domestic Prelate— Vexatious loss . 24

Chapter VII

Epiphany— S. Andrea della Valle— Maronite Mass— In essentid Unilas—Ara. Cœli — Procession of Bambino— S. Andrea della Valle— Greco-Melchite Rite— Introduction to Greek Archbishop— Bishop of Southwark — A forlorn friend— Forum Romanum — Colosseum— S. Andrea della Valle— Syriac Rite— A Gothic church iii Rome — Vespers at St. Peter's — Rosaries . . 2$ Contents. VII

Chapter VIII

S. Andrea della Valle — Syro-Maronite Mass— Unexpected meeting — Duke of Norfolk — An American Bishop — Audience to English Deputation — Exhibition of Jubilee presents — Indiscreet generosity — S. Andrea della Valle — Greco-Rutheno Rite — The Papal Sovereignty — Bishop of Demerara— The Gesu — Tomb of S. Ignatius — Catacombs of St. Callistus — Beautiful view — Church of San Sebastian — Precious Relics. . . .33

Chapter IX

S. Andrea della Valle — Chaldean Rite — S. Andrea della Quirinale — Tomb of St. Stanislaus — First Mass of Leo XIII. — Ticket hunting — Scotch College — Canonization of three Jesuits— Pontifical High Mass — Magnificent Function — Close view of Leo XI II. — Cardinal Pallotti — Italian manners in Church 38

Chapter X

Palazzo Altieri — Jubilee Concert — Museo Conservatori — Interesting Antiquities — Pincian Hill — Scala Santa — Our Lord's Portrait — St. John Lateran — English College — Episcopal Consecration — An Italian breakfast — A friend's misfortune — Mammertine Prison — SS. Martina and Luca — Magnificent tomb — S. Peter ad Vincula — Moses of Michael Angelo — San Martino — St. Alphonsus — Our Lady of Perpetual Succour . . . .41

Chapter XI

Castle of S. Angelo — S. Clemente — Ancient underground Church — An Italian Whiteley — St. Agnes without the Walls — Blessing of Lambs — Miraculous escape of Pius IX. — Pantheon — A desecrated Church— Papal Devotion — Sistine Chapel — Picture galleries — Papal garden — San Silvestro in Capite — Bones of Capuchins — Monsignor Bonomi — Farewell amenities . . Contents. VIII

Chapter XII

Departure for Naples— Magnificent Scenery— Monte Cassino— Riviera di Chiaja — Mild climate — Long natural tunnel — First view of Vesuvius — Cathedral of San Gennaro — Liquefaction of Saint's Blood — Ancient chapel — Lively streets — Posilipo — Enchanting views — Rough sea — National Museum — Pompeiian antiquities — Luxuriant gardens — Candlemas — A sad errand — San Domenico Maggiore — Gesii Nuova — San Martino — An astute Government — A magnificent High Altar — " See Naples, and die " 52

Chapter XIII

Pompeii — A threatened village — Torre del Annunziata — Macaroni making — Exploration of Pompeii — Ghastly relics — Excavations — Unique excursion — Naples mud —Capri — Sorrento scenery — Blue grotto — Primitive steamers — Ascent of Vesuvius — A Tramontana — Resina — A terrible mountain — Funicular — A struggle — The crater — A duty performed . . . -59

Chapter XIV

Departure for Alexandria — S.S. Arabia — Stromboli — Lipari Islands— In sight of Mount Ætna — Strait of Messina — Colour of the Sea— Unstable equilibrium — Pious pilgrims — Crete — Alexandria — Boatmen — From Spring to Summer— Jesuit friends — Unusual rain — College of the Jesuits— Church of St. Catherine- Catholic Greek Church — Schismatic Greek Church — Pompey's pillar — Silly Vandalism — Moslem Funeral- Khedive's Palace .66

Chapter XV

Departure for Beyrouth— Flat coast— Port Said— Jaffa — Tropical scene— Dangerous anchorage — A truly Oriental town — Chess on the Syrian coast — Beyrouth Contents. IX — A friendly welcome — St. George's Bay — The Lebanon Mountains — Jebel Sannin — The Jesuit University — Printing establishment — A remarkable conversion — A grand view — A " flare up " 73

Chapter XVI

Country-house of Jesuits— The Pasha's garden — " Bakhshish " hunters — Maronite College — A polite Bishop — University — Electrical experiments — Convent of Sisters of Nazareth — Fine view — Odorous streets — Jesuits' chapel — Syriac rite — A Syrian house — Franciscans — Letters of introduction — Tropical storm — School of Medicine — Hospital — Maronite Mass — Tickets for Jerusalem — Oriental smoking . . . .80

Chapter XVII

Farewell to Beyrouth — Attentive friends — Lumpy sea — Jaffa again — Primitive conveyance — Plain of Sharon — Turkish rapacity — Bad road — A break-down — Dangerous hills — Jerusalem at last — Disgraceful hotel accommodation — Disturbed night — "Casa Nova" — Real Hospitality — Mount Zion — A monument of antiquity— Departed greatness — A fine view of Jerusalem ......... 88

Chapter XVIII

Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Tomb of our Lord — Former fire — An indisputable site — Calvary — Schismatic possession — Sound tradition — Site of Invention of the Cross — Greek hatred — Turkish "black-mail" — Chapel of St. Mary Magdalen — A fine church — Via Dolorosa — Valley of Jehosaphat — Garden of Gethsemani — Ancient olive-trees — Tomb of the Virgin — Crusader's Church of St. Anne — Probable Pool of Bethesda Contents. X

Chapter XIX

Moslem oppression — Armenian Monastery — House of Caiphas — House of Annas — Cœnaculum — Tomb of David— A Jew converted— Grotto of the Agony- Church of Pater — Absalom's tomb— Pool of the Virgin — Aceldama — Valley of Hinnom — Mosque of Omar— Golden Gate— Footprint of the Prophet- Mosque of El Aksa — Agony columns — Solomon's stables — Ancient stones 102

Chapter XX

Bethlehem — Rachel's Tomb — Church of the Nativity — Grotto — Greek and Armenian hatred — Return to Jerusalem — Tombs of the Kings — Tombs of the Judges — Dominican Monastery — St. Stephen's martyrdom — Grotto of Jeremiah — Supposed site of Calvary — Objections to this theory 109

Chapter XXI

Pilgrimage to Bethany — Mass on the tomb of Lazarus — Bethpage — Mount of Olives — Scene of the Lamentation over Jerusalem — The Blessed Virgin's girdle — Via Dolorosa — The Patriarch's Church — Austrian Hospice — Russian Colony — San Salvatore — Temple Sect — Pere Ratisbonne's Orphanage — Tyropcean Valley — Desolate spot 117

Chapter XXII

Bethlehem again — Shepherds' Fields — A rough side — St. John in the Mountains — Church of the Visitation — Fine scenery — Return — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Entrance of three Patriarchs — Blessing of the Palms— Distractions— Jewish and Armenian quarters —Grotto of the Agony— An interesting walk- Maundy Thursday — Washing of pilgrims' feet— • Tenebræ — Imprisoned Contents. XI

Chapter XXIII

Good Friday — Adoration of the Cross — Mass of the Presanctified — Via Crucis — Solemn Procession — Greek revenge — Touching ceremonies — Patriarch's church — A ride to Anita — A Freemason — "In vinoveritas" — Easter Sunday — A joyful High Mass — A tiresome negotiation— Last visit to the Holy Places— Final arrangements 131

Chapter XXIV

Departure from Jerusalem - - Palestine horses — Last glimpse of Jerusalem — El Bireh — Wild scenery — The Robber's Spring — Sinjil — First encampment — Bakhshish! — Jackals — Ruins of Shiloh — Beautiful valleys and steep hills — Great plain of Shechem — Gerizim and Ebal — Jacob's Well — Nablouse — A dishonest population — A disturbed night. . . 142

Chapter XXV

Early start — Valley of Nablouse — Steep paths ■ — Sebastiyeh — Former greatness — A bad accident — A long ride — Jenin — Dead horses — Another victim — Great plain of Esdraelon — Jezreel — A sharp descent — Shunem — An oasis — Mountains of Gilboa — Hills of Galilee — View of Mount Tabor — Nazareth — Picturesque situation — Church of the Annunciation — Wonderful column — A violent storm 151

Chapter XXVI

Journey to Tiberias — A drenching — Cana of Galilee — Ancient church — Dreary plain — Sudden glimpse of the- Sea of Galilee — Mount Hermon — Mount of the Beatitudes — A steep descent — A decayed city — Relaxing climate — Ill-mannered Jews — Oriental dirt — The inevitable small boy — Insect plagues — Peaceful scene — Oleanders — Scorpions — Oriental unchangeableness Contents. XII

Chapter XXVII

Departure from Tiberias — " Distance lends enchantment,' &c. — Park-like scenery — Mount Tabor — Rough ascent — " Three tabernacles " — Unique view — Most probable site of Transfiguration — Franciscan Hospice — Strange fact — A slippery descent — Nazareth again— St. Joseph's workshop — Mensa Christi — A celebrated Synagogue 163

Chapter XXVIII

Departure from Nazareth — El Mujedil — Beautiful scenery — In sight of Mount Carmel — Hartiyeh — Distant view of Mediterranean — River Kison — A hot ride — Kaifa — Palm-trees — Encampment in Moslem cemetery — A rising town — Carmelite Monastery — A kind Father Rector — Prophet Elijah's cavern — Cavern of the Holy Family — "Our Lady of Mount Carmel" — A violent Sirocco — An unexpected meeting . . .170

Chapter XXIX

An early start — Bay of Acre — Shells and sponges — A dangerous ford — Acre — Cornfields and tamarisk-trees — Carmel range — High wind — Ez-Zib — An unheeded warning— More fording— Ladder of Tyre — A dangerous path — Furious storm — Tyre — Refuge — A self-willed dragoman — Departed grandeur — Hiram, King of Tyre 176

Chapter XXX

Departure from Tyre — A rocky path— River Litani— Turkish neglect— A teasing wind— An exhausting ride — Sidon— Non-arrival of tents— Franciscan Monastery —Jesuit College— Storming the Fathers— Explanations — Another Moslem cemetery — A converted Turkish-bath — A fine natural harbour — Violent thunder-storm— " Roughing it"— Low Mass at Jesuits' chapel — Thoughtful watchfulness . . . . :g. Contents. XIII

Chapter XXXI

Journey resumed— "The tail end"— River Bostrenus — Stony promontory — Splendid tamarisks — Ras Damur — Distant view of Beyrouth — Mulberry plantations — By the "sad sea waves" — High sand-dunes — The Pines again — Luxuriant vegetation — Beyrouth once more — Change of quarters — French caravan — Visiting . 191

Chapter XXXII

The Jesuit University — Nucleus of Museum— Ancient Beyrouth — Modern improvements — Silk manufacture — " Early birds " — Diligence to Damascus — A splendid road — Grand scenery — Shtora — Jabel Sanmn — An unexpected meeting — Taniel — Broad plain — Mount Hermon — Anti - Lebanon — Wady-el-Karn — Splendid views — Wady Barada — Ancient River Abana — Fertile valley — Damascus 196

Chapter XXXIII

Leave Damascus — Night "diligence" — Lebanon by moonlight — Weird effects — Roseate hues in cloudland — Fine views — -An enjoyable drive — Bay of St. George — Dog River — Maronite village — River Lycus — Silkworms — Beyrouth illuminated — Arrangements for departure — Farewell visits — Strawberries and cream — " Good-bye " to the Jesuit Fathers . . . 206-

Chapter XXXIV

At sea once more — -The only passengers — Oriental sharpness — "Discretion the better part of valour" — Jaffa — A "nasty swell" — Vexatious delay — Alexandria — A bullying boatman — Cool temperature— Jesuit College — Lazarist Church — Sisters of St. Vincent of Paul — A noble work — Cook's office — European quarter — Mahmoudieh Canal — The Greek Easter — Ear-splitting rejoicings Contents. XIV

Chapter XXXV

Train to Cairo— Scenery of the Delta— Sakiyehs— Mud villages — Rosetta branch of Nile— Kafr-ez-Zaiyat— Tanta — Damietta branch of Nile — Cairo — Warm reception— Shepheard's Hotel — Egyptian fly-driver — A friend in need — Jesuit College — Mission to Copts— The Citadel— Striking view — Alabaster Mosque of Mehemet Ali — The Muski— Matariyeh — Cotton fields — Ancient Obelisk — A familiar cry — Land of Goshen — A chronic plague — Country-house of Jesuits — Khedive's garden and Blessed Virgin's Tree and Well — Beautiful tradition 218

Chapter XXXVI

.New College of Jesuits — English v. Egyptian workmen- Convent of La Mere de Dieu — India-rubber trees — — Bulak Museum — Mummies — Ancient Tombs — Old Cairo — Coptic Church of St. Mary — Dwelling of the Holy Family — Great Nile Bridge — Park of Gesireh — Visit to the Pyramids — Leafy avenue — Pyramid of Cheops — Bargaining with Sheik — Breathless ascent — " Bakhshish in excelsis" — A trial to nerves — A fine view — Encore "bakhshish" — The Granite Temple — The Sphinx — An iconoclastic Moslem — Departure from Cairo — Alexandria again 225

Chapter XXXVII

Departure from Alexandria— A model steamer— Tranquil sea— Island of Crete— Grand mountains— Island of Goso — Mainland of Greece — Zante— Cephalonia— Paxos— Corfu— Brindisi— The Inquisition— Not to be caught— Adriatic Sea— An olive-tree country— Bari— Loreto — Curious resemblance — Ancona — Beautiful scenery — Bologna Contents. XV

Chapter Xxxviii

Milan — The Duomo — An architectural marvel — Realistic effigy — Ambon for chanting Gospel — S. Carlo Borremeo — Royal gifts — A rich Treasury — Leafy Boulevards — Santa Maria della Grazie — San Ambrogio — San Celso — Arcadian grandeur — A lively city — High Mass at Duomo — Museum — Insular prejudices — Public gardens — Leave Milan — A heavy thunder-storm — Turin — Mount Cenis Pass — Fine gorge — Modane — Aix-les- Bains — Grand mountains — Lake of Bourget — A slow train — Paris again — "Making hay while the sun shines" — A hurried visit — Boulogne — From summer to winter — An unexpected meeting — Folkestone — Vexatious delay — Hastings again

Chapter I

Leave Hastings — Stormy passage — Early Winter — The Riviera — Contrasts — Genoa — Jubilee Pilgrims — Tiber in flood — First glimpse of Eternal City — Roman fly-driver — Collegio Romano — Confiscations — Christmas Eve — Singular Armenian Rite — Heavy rain — Table d'hote Babel. Wednesday, December 2/, /88j. — Left Hastings by an afternoon train for Dover ; my brother, and several intimate friends being at the railway-station to say " good-bye." Soon after arriving, paid a visit to our friend, Father James Laws, the parish priest of that town, as we had some time to spare before the 10 p.m. steamer started for Calais, who informed us that he was also going to the Papal Jubilee. There were many "ups and downs" during the passage across the Channel, making the "better half" — worse, and the "worse half" — better.

On arriving at Calais, went by a through train, by the " Ceinture " Railway, to the Lyons terminus at Paris, where we obtained tickets for Rome. B Thursday, 22nd. — Travelling all day, reaching Marseilles at midnight ; the country was in many places covered with snow, and the journey tedious, and cold. The next morning, on awaking from troubled slumber, found ourselves by the shores of the Mediterranean, which looked anything but blue under the leaden sky. The railway skirts the coast all the way to Genoa (called the Superb), where we arrived the same evening. The country through which we passed is remarkably grand and picturesque, and the lofty sum mits of the " Alpes Maritimes " were covered with snow, forming a remarkable contrast to the beautiful gardens by the sea-shore, semi-tropical in their character, and in which were orange and lemon-trees, loaded with ripe fruit, containing also roses and other English flowers in full bloom.

Arriving at Genoa in the evening, just had time to obtain some dinner ; then a rush to obtain places in the train for Rome. The railway -station was so crowded with Jubilee pilgrims that there was scarcely room to move ; however, we all settled down at last, but not to sleep. By the morning light saw the Tiber greatly Collegio Romano. 3 flooded, and caught our first glimpse of the " Eternal City " on Christmas Eve, through the rain, which came down in torrents. The Roman fly-driver took advantage of us being strangers, and charged a very fancy price for taking us from the station to the " Piazza San Ignazio," where our boarding-house was situate. Our first proceeding on arriving at our domicile was to refresh the " inner man," and — afterwards to try and obtain the traditional "forty." Our boarding-house was managed by two English widows who had married Italians.

It was formerly occupied by the " Oblates of St. Mary," and is exactly opposite the Church of San Ignazio, belonging to the "Collegio Romano," a celebrated establishment of the Jesuits, now confiscated by the anti clerical Italian Government, and "con verted " into a museum, and library — with 63,000 books, and 2,000 manuscripts belong ing to that Order; the collection being increased to about 450,000 vols. from the libraries of many suppressed monasteries. This is only one example of what is going on in Italy, reminding one of the days of Henry VIII. and of Edward VI. in England. The "spoils of Catholicism" grow apace. In the afternoon of Christmas Eve, went to the " German College " in the " Via Tolentino " to call upon Father Floeck, a Professor there ;* not finding him at home, strolled into a neighbouring church which we found to belong to the United, or Catholic Armenians.

High Mass was being celebrated, at a very unusual hour to have it, viz., four o'clock in the after noon ; a custom peculiar to the Catholic Armenians once a year. The music of the Mass was also very peculiar, and not very agreeable, according to Western notions. The ceremonies differed in many respects from the Latin rite, notably at the Consecration, and during the whole of " Canon," the Archbishop performing a kind of solemn dance before the Blessed Sacrament — as David of old danced before the Ark of the Covenant — " shaking bells the whole time!" A Rite which is apparently derived from that mentioned in the 9th verse of chapter xlv. of the Book of Ecclesiasticus (speaking of Aaron the first High Priest) : "And God encompassed Aaron with pomegranates, and with many * Since made Rector ofthe College.

The German College. 5 golden bells round about, that as he went there might be a sound, and a noise made, that might be heard in the Temple for a memorial to the children of His people." After the Mass, the Archbishop in censed, in succession, all the altars in the church, and afterwards distributed the " Euchologium," or blessed bread. Returning to the German College, we found Father Floeck at home ; he is a Jesuit, and consequently very kind and amiable. The College is very large and handsome. Cardinal Mazzella, to whom we had a letter of introduction from Father Terrasse and the Father Provincial of the Lyons Province, and with whom we had an interview subsequently, resides here. As it now began to rain "hard," we took a conveyance back to our domicile, which at dinner time was quite full of " all sorts and conditions of men" — vide Anglican "Book of Common Prayer" — and ladies of diverse nationalities, so that it was more or less of a Babel during the meal.

Chapter II

Christmas Day — High Mass at St. Peter's — Preparations for Jubilee — " Our Lady of the Snow " — Procession of Cradle — S. Stephano Rotondo — Solemn Music — Ancient Mural Paintings — Santa Cecilia — Well known figure — Ancient Paschal Candlestick — Scaldinos — San Silvestro in Capite — Relics — San John Lateran — Scripture and paintings — Wooden Altar of St. Peter — Florid music — Italian behaviour. Rose early, "before the larks," in fact, and discovered our way to St. Peter's on foot ; rather a puzzling quest for strangers at first, and heard a High Mass in one of the side-chapels. The music, of course, was very fine, but too elaborate to suit my taste, nor do I think it helps devotion. After this was over, we followed the Bishop who had sung this Mass to another side-chapel, where he said two Low Masses.

We took a superficial look at the interior before leaving; great preparations were being made at the back of the High Altar for the approaching Jubilee Mass. At the risk of repeating what other travellers have so often said, I did not St. Mary Major. 7 realize the vastness of St. Peter's on this first visit, and confess to a feeling of disappointment. On coming out, the sun was shining brilliantly, and the atmosphere was extremely clear and exhilarating. In the afternoon drove to the Church of " St. Mary Major," better known as " Our Lady of the Snow," in commemoration of the miracle that took place, indicating the spot where the church was to be built on the " Esquiline Hill;" the Blessed Virgin having appeared to Pope Liberius, and also to a devout Roman Patrician, commanding them to erect a large church on a spot where they should find a " deposit of snow the following morning, the 3th of August !"

It has ever since been a festival in the Universal Church. In one of the chapels is pre served the great relic of the cradle of our Lord, which was carried in solemn pro cession after the Vespers. The church was brilliantly illuminated with thousands of wax tapers, and the crush of people was something enormous. Monday, 26th. — Being St. Stephen's day, went to the very ancient and curious Church of San Stefano Rotondo, which is near the Colosseum. The High Mass commenced at 10 a.m. The venerable Cardinal Archbishop of Cologne officiated, and preached a very long sermon in German after the Mass was over. The students of the German College, who wear red habits, did all the singing, which was very devotional, because " Cecilian." The walls of the church are covered with ancient paintings, illustrating the sufferings of the early Christian Martyrs in a very graphic manner.

In the afternoon, having a letter of introduction to Father Whitmee of the " Pious Society of Missions," we hired a carriage to take us to the Church of " San Silvestro in Capite," at the presbytery of which he resides, a church given by the Holy Father to the Society, for the benefit of English Catholics in Rome ; but our driver, misunderstanding our correct Italian, took us instead to the Church of " Santa Cecilia," built in the house of the Saint after her conversion from paganism ; we were shown the bath in which one of the Roman Emperors tried to strangle her for becoming a Christian ; there is also to be seen the well-known carved recumbent figure of the Saint, representing her as she was found after death. A great many San Silvestro in Capite. 9 other martyrs are also buried under the choir of the church, and many handsome lamps are perpetually burning before their tombs ; there is also a very beautiful and ancient " Paschal Candlestick " in this church.

All this time we kept expecting Father Whitmee to make his appearance, as we were still under the impression that this church was " San Silvestro," and the sacristan appeared to understand whom we wanted ; but despairing at last, he ushered us into a cell of the adjoining convent to have matters explained by some nuns, who carried " Scaldinos," or small braziers filled with charcoal to warm their hands, and who knew Father Whitmee, and directed us to " San Silvestro ; " so, after losing our way among the narrow and tortuous streets of " Trastevere," we jumped into a passing conveyance, and were driven back to the right church. " We did not catch our " — priest ; but Brother O'Donaghue showed us the church, which is very handsome, and contains numerous relics, among them the head of Pope St. Sylvester I. enclosed in silver; the head of St. John the Baptist was formerly here (hence the title of the church, " St. Sylvester, with the head"), but is now preserved in one of the chapels of the Vatican.

There is a tradition that after the head was first taken away from the church by some Cardinals, it returned to the church of its own accord ; it is hoped that the present Pope will restore it some day. Father Whitmee, who is Procurator- General, called upon us in the afternoon ; he is an extremely sensible and agreeable priest. Tuesday, 2"jth. — St. John the Evangelist. — Went to High Mass at the Church of St. John Lateran, which is the Metropolitan Church of the Pope, and in which he is crowned ; an immense Basilica, the sculpture and paintings of which are something marvellous. In the north transept, over the altar of the Blessed Sacrament, is the original table on which our Lord offered the first Mass, with life-sized figures of the twelve Apostles seated round it ; and enclosed within the stone of the High Altar, is the wooden altar on which St. Peter used to say Mass.

The side-chapels are all very large and beautiful, and the sculptured "Stations of the Cross" are colossal. From the portico of the church the view of the mountains is very fine. The music at the Mass was very grand, St. John Lateran. 11 but in the usual florid Italian style ; the organ was, however, played beautifully. The church was crowded, and the Italians rather better behaved than usual, but still that horrible spitting. It was raining heavily we found on leaving the church, and, as "bad luck would have it," we could not obtain a conveyance home, so we had to employ " shank's mare " in order to do so.

Chapter III

A favourite quarter of Rome. — German College — The Ara Coeli — Miraculous Bambino — Picture by St. Luke — Children preaching — The English College — New Chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury — The Elizabethan Martyrs — Interview with a Cardinal — Exposition of Relics at San Silvestro — Illuminations — Clanging Bells. Wednesday, 28th. — After breakfast, called upon an English family, to whom we had a letter of introduction ; they live in the " Piazza di Spagna," which seems to be a favourite quarter with the English residents in Rome. The morning was bitterly cold, but fine and bright ; these alternations of heavy rain and biting cold seem peculiar to the Roman winter, and are very trying to " cold-blooded " persons. In the afternoon took a walk to the German College to call upon Father Floeck, but he was out with the Bishop of Demerara, another Jesuit, on a visit to Rome for the Jubilee.

When we returned home found that he had called The Ara Cæli. 13 upon us, so that it was quite a game of " hide and seek." In the evening indulged in our usual mild dissipation of a " rubber," pour passer le temps. Before going to the German College in the afternoon, paid a visit to the church of the " Ara Cæli," a very ancient edifice on the " Capitoline Hill," the approach to which is by a long flight of steps. In one of the chapels is kept the celebrated " Bambino," or image of the Child Jesus, which has worked many miracles, from time to time, on persons of good faith. Over the High Altar is a picture traditionally painted by St. Luke, and in another side-chapel the remains of the great Empress St. Helena are said to repose. It being " Holy Innocents' day," it is the custom for little children to get up on a little raised platform at the end of the church, opposite the beautiful " Crib," and preach little " extempore " sermons ; with the exception of one or two " infant prodigies," it was rather slow work getting them to perform at all.