A Visit to Spain ... Second edition

Front matter

A VISIT TO SPAIN. Lately published in Svo., price 10s. Gd. boards, MEMOIRS OF FERDINAND VII. KING OF THE SPAINS. BY DON , ADVOCATE OF THE SPANISH TRIBUNALS. TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL SPANISH MANUSCRIPT. BY MICHAEL J. QUIN. LONDON : PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WH1TEFUIARS. A A VISIT TO SPAIN; DETAILING THE TRANSACTIONS WHICH OCCURRED DURING RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY, IN THE LATTER PART OF 1822, AND THE FIRST FOUR MONTHS OF 1823. WITH GENERAL NOTICES OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, COSTUME, AND MUSIC OF THE COUNTRV. BY MICHAEL J. QUIN. SECOND EDITION. LONDON: PRINTED FOR HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO., 90, CHEAPSIDE, AND 8, PALL-MALL ; AND ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO., EDINBURGH. 1824. CONTENTS.

Page Chap. I. — Journey from London to Bordeaux .■. 1 Chap. II. — Journey from Bordeaux to the Pyrenees 16 Chap. III. — Journey from Bayonne to Madrid 33 Chap. IV.— The Hall of Cortes.— The Ministers.— State of Parties 57 Chap. V. — The Landaburian Society 66 Chap. VI. — General State ofthe Country 82 Chap. VII.— Theatres.— Bull-Fights 98 Chap. VIII.— Madrid.— Public Walks.— Buildings.— Society — The Royal Family. — Christmas-day 112 Chap. IX. — British Claims. — Congress of Verona. — Negotiations for Peace. — Proceedings ofthe Allies. — Conduct of Spain 129 4 Chap. X. — Debates in Cortes on the Foreign Despatches. — Prospects of the Constitution 144 Chap. XI. — Modifications of the Constitution 163 Chap. XII. — Attempt of Bessieres on Madrid. — Departure ofthe French Minister 176 Chap. XIII. — Negotiations continued. — Conduct of the Spanish Ministers and Deputies. — The Landaburian Society. — Speech of the King of France. — Preparations for War. — Conduct of the King of Spain- — Effects of the Constitution. — Public Journals 191 Chap. XIV. — The Carnival. — An Excursion to Guadalajara CONTENTS.

IV Page Chap. XV.— Removal and Re-instatement of the Ministry. —Tumults in Madrid 226 Chap. XVI. — Continuation of the Negotiations. — The Masons and Coinniuueros. — Nomination of a new Ministry. — Opening of the Ordinary Cortes — Conduct of the King. — Conclusion of the Negotiations. — Removal of Government. — Departure of the King 243 Chap. XVII.— The Escurial 258 Chap. XVIII. — Departure ofthe Cortes. — Intelligence from the Provinces. — Journey to Seville 275 Chap. XIX. — Seville. — The Alcazar. — Ladies of Seville. — The Theatre. — Situation of Seville for ;> Capital. — The Guadalquivir. — Ruins of Italica. — li.i'I-Fights. — Feeling ofthe Sevillians towards the Constitution. — Sir William A'Court. — Neutrality of England. — Arrival of the King 298 Chap. XX. — Journey to Cadiz. — Return to Seville 322 Chap. XXI. — Return to Madrid. — Return to Iran and London 331 Chap. XXII. — The Spanish School of Painting. — Spanish Music. — Products of Climate and Industry : Postscript 345

Chapter I. Journey From London To Bordeaux

The singular situation in wliich Spain was placed towards the close of the year 1822, the probability that the revolution of that country would be brought under the consideration of the Congress of Verona, and a curiosity to see the theatre of so many British victories, were my principal in ducements to visit the Peninsula. The reader has here the results of such observations, as considerable opportunity, and the most perfect freedom from bias, enabled me to make during the six months immediately preceding the French invasion — perhaps the most important and diversified period that has occurred since the close of the Peninsular war. I left London in October, 1822. The passage to Calais was rather a rough one, which none but a steam-vessel, and that such a one as the Dasher, could have attempted to make.

This finely constructed boat, indeed, would ride over much rougher seas, as she turns in the water with the facility of one of its native inhabitants. Every pas senger on board, with the exception of three or four, was excessively ill. The floor of the cabin showed that the sea, like Death, levels all distinctions ; for there were strewed, at full length, ladies and their maids, gentlemen and children, English, French, and Spaniards, without any particular at tention to the wants and sufferings of each other. I! Wtli, Pilot boats came out, and landed the greater number of the passengers before six o'clock ; but the tide then rapidly falling, the rest of the passengers had the comfortable enjoyment of four hours more on board the packet. This was as bad as a second voyage. Before eleven all were landed without accident; and, as soon as they touched land, the ladies began to laugh and talk away, as if nothing had happened in the way of indisposition.

I reached Paris on the 18th. As we passed through Beauvais, we learned that the vintage, which had only been just finished, was one of the finest that has been known for some years. The vines had scarcely yet lost any of their foliage, but the deep tints of yellow which they were every where beginning to assume, marked the approach of winter. Hitherto the autumn had been very mild. It is not until you approach Beauvais that you begin to see the true costume and character, both of the French people and of French scenery. Fine sweeps of hills, covered with underwood, meet the eye in every direction. The valleys are frequently planted with poplars, which some times form a long line, or enclose a square field ; and are sometimes so grouped together on the half ascents of the hills, that at a distance their spiral tops, and the vistas which they afford, resemble the ruins of monasteries.

South of Beauvais there is a vale so beautifully planted with these picturesque trees, that it deserves the name of the " Valley of Poplars." But whether it is that such scenes as these impress the mind with an idea of solitude, leading to me lancholy, though not unpleasing, associations; or whether it is that they are rarely decorated by chateaus, which might speak of a resident and active nobility, there is no thing in them, after all, but the unvarying beauty of still life. Here and there you see a woman driving her cows a-field. Now and then, a shepherd is seen on the side of a hill, while his scanty flock browzes on the green declivity. But these infrequent objects serve only to render the general stillness more palpable to the sense, and to deepen the contrast which it presents to the ever-breathing scenery of England.

Having remained only five days in Paris, I should not perhaps be excused if I went into any length of observation upon the peculiarities of that capital. I may, however, be permitted to state, that during the time of divine service, it appeared to me that the duties of the Sabbath were much more generally attended to than I had been led to expect. High mass was celebrated in the cathedral of Notre Dame, at which the Archbishop of Paris (De Quelen) attended. There was a large congregation, and they seemed to be all deeply impressed with a sense of religion. The other churches of the capital were, however, much better attended than the cathedral, — such of them as I saw during the hours of service were crowded. In these churches all was silent prayer ; not the decorum of restraint, but sincere and earnest attention.

What proportion these congregations bear to the idle, the irreligious, and the dissipated of the metropolis, it would be difficult to ascertain. There were very few shops open. The confectioners, traiteurs, small dealers in fruits, wines, and hardware exposed their windows as usual ; but perhaps it may be assumed that the greater part even of these were Jews. All the shops, except two or three, in the Palais Royal were closed. In some quarters of the capital builders and labourers were at work, and several low mechanics pursued their occupations. But whatever is respectable in Paris observed the Sunday with as much strictness as we do in England. One can scarcely move a step in Paris without seeing soldiers in every direction. The gens d'armes are for ever before the eye. In Paris, the military claim the ascendant. b every where, and it is easily yielded to them.

The people have no aversion to the sight of helmets and sabres ; they rather court the conversation of the gens d'armes, and the intercourse between all classes of arms and the citizens seems to be carried on upon a friendly footing. Yet it may be said that the government is seldom heard of; it scarcely comes in contact with the people in their usual haunts and habits. It seems to be almost a secret influence, providing, in a different region, for the peace and happiness of its sub jects. A man of industry, good conduct, proper sentiments of liberty, and of due regard for the laws, might live for half a century here without knowing that there was such a thing as an active and refined system of police. Those only who are inimical to order, who wish to push their own for tunes at the expense of the community, who can live only in the torch-light of conspiracies ; men, in fact, who are little less than banditti — these alone are taught to feel that there is a government of power above their heads, and that their adventurous and selfish ambition is not likely to be gratified by sacrificing the repose of thirty millions of people.

What I have observed with my own eyes would be sufficient to sustain these observations. A native of Burgundy, with whom I casually conversed, confirmed them by the view which he gave me of that part of France. He was an intelligent, well-informed gentleman, of no school of politics, who neither loved nor hated the monarchy, and who seemed very properly to consider the ministry as the true object osa freeman's attention. Speaking the opinion of that part of the country, he said that M. de Villele's character was popular there, on account of his integrity, the unsullied purity of his life, his thorough acquaintance with the interests, and his inviolable attachment to the new institutions of France. The French, he observed, were a most supple and docile people, easy to be governed, and averse to political agita- 23d, tions.

As to Lafayette, Lafitte, Constant, and Foy, they were absolutely nothing. Their discourses in the Chamber had not the slightest influence in the country — men of no connexions — who wished to take the helm of empire into their own hands, and who, if they had it, would be as in tolerant of public opinion as they were of a successful and vigorous government. I left Paris in the evening, for Tours, and arrived at Orleans just as the sun was rising. Its first beams were in tercepted by clouds, which assumed a pale saffron colour of a delicate hue, here and there tinged with gold. The cathedral and its two lofty and magnificent towers looked to great advantage, as seen against this beautiful sky of morning. Immediately after leaving Orleans, a stranger is surprised by the novelty, and delighted with the beauty of the scenery which he sees spread around him.

On one side the country is indeed flat, but it is covered with vineyards ; and though the leaves were now faded on the vine-stems, one easily imagines the effect which they must have when burdened with grapes, and smiling in their summer foliage. On the other side, the Loire, that source of romantic associations, gives to view a wide, tranquil sheet of water, whose undula tion is so gentle, that it is scarcely observed to move, though it has to make a progress of more than five hundred miles. Here and there you see moored, or floating upon its un ruffled bosom, some of those single-masted boats which are so frequently to be met with navigating this river. They are flat-bottomed, being constructed merely for carriage; their sides are not deep, and the poop gradually slopes off in a square form.

Whether they are seen with the mast alone, and the slight cordage that passes from the summit to each extremity of the vessel, or whether they present themselves to the eye with their large, square, white sails extended, they always form picturesque objects, and give diversity as well as animation to the scene. They were generally laden with wine — the wine of the last vintage, which was in small casks, of the size of our English hogshead. When the breeze is favourable, they spread the sail : in calm or adverse weather, they depend upon their oars. The distant bank in the vicinity of Orleans is level near the water, but at a short distance it rises gently, and terminates in a ridge, which runs parallel with the river for several leagues. The space between the Loire and this ridge is richly cultivated ; the seat of many chateaus or villas, which shine out from amidst thick green underwood, and tall poplar trees ; vineyards also crown the hill and enrich the vale down to the very margin of the stream.

Several of these chateaus are large, but the greater number of them are on a moderate scale. A few of them are inhabited by Enghsh families at present, but the favourite resort of our emigrant countrymen seems to be towards Blois and Tours. The road from Orleans to Tours winds along the Loire, in some places hanging immediately over the river, and never receding from it beyond twenty or thirty paces. We met frequently on the road hght waggons laden with new wine in pipes. Some of these were drawn by six, some by five, four, and three horses, according to the number of casks, allowing two for each horse. Whatever the number of horses to each waggon, they were yoked in a single line, never two a breast, as in England. Of other travellers there were few. Two or three diligences well filled, three or four mouldy French cabriolets, two French carriages threatening to break down, and a pair of mounted gens-d'armes, charged with correspondence to a neighbouring division of police, were all we encountered, unless we except a party of pedestrians, who were refreshing themselves on the side of the road.

One of these had a gourd-shell hung round his neck FROM LONDON TO BORDEAUX. 7 October, by a cord, from which he now and then took a measure of brandy, for himself or his compamons. Another held in his hand a small earthen jar of wine, from which he seemed to have just taken a liberal portion. Bread, with cheese and garlick, they seemed to have provided in abundance, though it was observed, that they did not invite to partake of their fare a solitary straggler, who had just passed them, and cast a longing look at their good cheer. He even took his bundle from the end of the stick, which he supported on his right shoulder, under the pretence of re-arranging it, that he might linger near them. But they looked every where except where the straggler stood, and at length he pursued his way. The first place you meet of any consequence is Beaugency.

It has the remains of a long high wall, which formed its very old fortifications. Some of the towers, which are of a round form, remain. In the middle of the town there is a large, square, high castle, which overlooks a considerable extent of country. There is also a handsome bridge over the Loire, and several boats, like those before described, were moored in the river, laden with wine. For some miles of the approach to Beaugency there are declivities on both sides of the Loire, which are highly picturesque. The slopes towards the river are either thickly wooded, or laid out in lawns, vineyards, or gardens. It must not be imagined, however, that either the lawns or gardens of this country are as handsome as those in England. Their glades have nothing of the rich deep green of our island ; and as to the gardens, they are generally , except where Enghsh taste has made innovations, the most formal and uninteresting parts of the whole prospect.

The next town you pass through after leaving Beau gency is Blois, the approach to which is picturesque in the extreme. Thc road runs along the half-ascent of a lofty hill. On your right hand are numerous little villas, built in a modern style, without much regularity as to their location, but perched wherever a gentle dechvity or a level spot could be found. They have small gardens before them, and are covered in front with vine trees. On the left, the descent is abrupt from the road ; but immediately below, between the road and the Loire, there is a charming valley, planted with ash, poplar, and elm trees, whose tops are overlooked by the traveller. The valley is intersected by several streams, and in summer it must afford a delightful retreat from the excessive warmth of noontide. Beyond this valley spreads the broad mirror of the Loire, for such it seems to be, so unruffled is its surface, so calm and silent is the passage of its ever flowing waters.

It is impossible to paint in any language the variety and enchantment of the scenery which extends on each side of the Loire, from Blois to Amboise, Chanteloup, and Tours. Imagine this magnificent river, wider than the widest part of the Thames, as it is seen in London, flowing in its simple grandeur between two lofty ridges of hills, each of which is crowded with innumerable chateaus, villages, and churches, planted with red and white vines of the richest flavour, di versified with poplars and shaded with underwood — a sweep of hill and vale, than which the sun throughout his course sees not one more friendly to the industry of man, or more fascinating to his senses. As we travelled along, we observed the water-side occupied almost the whole way to Tours with casks of the new vintage ready for embarkation.

The river was well sprinkled, though not crowded, with boats ascending to Orleans; their white sails and whiter flags glittering in the evening sun. As the night set in, we observed along the verge of the river several tents, which seemed to belong to persons who had debarked, for greater convenience of cooking, from neighbouring boats, or to persons intrusted with the care of the wine prepared for embarkation. They were hke gypsy tents ; the fires which were lighted in them were reflected from the river, and they presented a curious and very pic turesque effect. I arrived at Tours in the evening, and was not sur prised that it should have attracted so many of my countrymen. It stands between two rivers, the Loire and the Cher, and is surrounded by every variety of cultivated land ; corn fields studded with fruit trees, and in the distance a range of hills, covered with vineyardsto the very top : several of their eminences crowned with abbeys, villas, and ruined castles.

The entrance to the town from the Paris road is imposing. You cross the Loire by a bridge of seventeen arches, quite straight, like Waterloo Bridge, and constructed in a style of simple elegance. As you pass over the bridge, you see on either side little islets in the river, which even yet were full of green foliage. As far as the eye can reach on either hand, you see villas, chapels with their spires, and little hamlets shaded by trees, and reaching down to the water's edge. Having passed the bridge, you enter the Rue Royale, which is perhaps one of the finest streets in France. It is very wide, has an excellent paved road in the middle, and, which is uncommon in France, a footway, and a wide one, on either side. At the end of this street is a long avenue of trees, shading the road towards Bordeaux for a considerable distance.

I understood that the number of English resident in Tours amounted to between five and six hundred. They consisted chiefly of persons who were desirous of economising, or who wished to enjoy the luxuries of French wines, fruits, and poultry, at less than one-third of the price which they cost in England. Where there is a large family, the account of expenses at the end of a year in Tours is little more than one half of what it would be in London. A single gentleman, of expensive habits, may live as well here for five hundred a year as he would for a thousand in England ; but to persons who are not " civilised" enough to feel that luxuries are necessaries of life, the change of country can make very little difference. Some also were here with a view to the re establishment of their health. In winter the climate is as warm almost as the English spring, and there is a pure serenity in the air which is peculiarly agreeable.

It is ob vious, that amongst such a number there must be some societies of a mixed character ; but, generally speaking, the Enghsh families here were respectable. There were, indeed, few or no persons of distinction — that is to say, there were none of the nobility here ; the best part of the visitors con sisted of retired merchants and others, who having a sufficiency of means, enjoyed a wider sphere of society here than they could do elsewhere. This, perhaps, is one of the most active causes ofthat emigration, which has of late years trans ferred so much of British wealth to foreign countries. Our upper circles move so much within their own rank, and have laid down such jealous laws with respect to the admission of mere wealth amongst them, that an Englishman of eight hundred a year has scarcely any chance of having even his existence known at home ; whilst abroad, with the same means, and the manners of a gentleman, he may possess every pleasure which social hfe affords.

In the winter season, there are balls and routs ; some times two or more the same night. The gentlemen have subscription hunts, partly French and English hounds. Their chief object of chase is the wild boar, an animal that affords the noblest diversion. Some of our countrymen are already expert in handling the spear, others bring out their guns, and the sport is generally excellent. There are some famihes who live in the country quite retired, but those who wish for society may have it in abundance, provided they be respectable. Several old bachelors and widowers, who came here resolved to know nobody, and to keep them selves unknown, have not been here for a month before their houses were crowded with guests for nights successively. They are now amongst the most active promoters of every amusement.

There is an English club-room here which is select. Most of the French journals, Galignani's Messenger, the Quarterly and Edinburgh Reviews, are on the table, and there is also a whist-table, which, I regret to say, is seldom unoccupied by day or night. The stakes frequently run high. The theatre is pretty well attended by the French ; now and then a few English appear in the boxes, but the players are of the lowest grade in the French drama. Even their dancing is bad. On the 26th, at night, I took my departure from Tours for Poitiers. About day-break the diligence entered Cha tellerault; where, whilst the horses were changing, four or five women pressed around us, and offered for sale some of the best cutlery I had seen in France. Between Chatel lerault and Poitiers the land is all arable to the very margin of the pubhc way; but it is not divided by fences and enclosed as in England.

You see a boundless tract of country admirably cultivated, without any appearance of a ditch. This want of enclosures, a few vineyards now and then mingling in the prospect, the pure serenity of the skies, and that soft golden tinge which an unclouded sun imparts to every object, are the only features which distinguish this part of France from the interior of Wiltshire. Little hamlets here and there scattered among the hills, their white walls, church spires, and neighbouring chateaus shining in the landscape, would otherwise lead an Englishman to believe himself suddenly transported to his own country. One curious feature of this country it is, that the women mostly, though not in all cases, ride their donkies and ponies after the manner of the male sex : that is to say, they use two stirrups, one at each side of the saddle.

A stranger is apt to laugh on first seeing them ; but when he perceives it is the general custom, he soon becomes reconciled to it. It is right to add, that modesty itself could not be offended by the appearance which they make, strange though it be. Every precaution is taken upon this point ; and though now and then a young handsome girl shows a woollen stocking from her own needle, gaily broidered near the knee, it is but fair to presume that she does not intend it to be seen, and trusts the rest to the native politeness of the country. Her confidence is not abused ; for though a blithe salute and a smiling compliment now and then remind her of her beauty, yet never do you hear or observe a word or action which has the slightest tendency to immorality. On approaching Poitiers, the country becomes more rocky on the right hand ; yet even from among the rocks vine trees shoot forth with amazing vigour.

On the left the country is open, and here and there you see a few meadows, (a rarity hitherto on the journey) which are inclosed by poplar trees. Their lovely green, the silver streams by which they were watered, a few cows plucking their herbage, and deers bounding through them, formed pictures, which to the eye of the traveller had all the effect of novelty, after traversing so many leagues of vineyards. Several old castles crown the distant hills ; giving too many proofs that the soil we were traversing had more than once witnessed the contests of adverse parties struggling for its possession. Poitiers is one of those places which the history of his country soonest impresses on an Englishman's mind, and he is apt to form his own ideas of it, investing it, of course, with ramparts, castles, and drawbridges, such as might be worthy of the chivalry of the Black Prince.

But Poitiers has nothing of fine antiquity about it. It is irregular, badly built, the streets all narrow lanes, and so steep and so wretchedly paved, that it is a difficulty to ascend them. I observed an afliche in several of the most conspicuous places of the town, setting forth the sentence which had been recently passed on Berton and his un fortunate companions. One of the copies had been torn down apparently by an indignant hand, but the others re mained untouched, and attracted many groups around them. It was remarked, that few or none of those who read them appeared to make even a mental commentary upon their contents. The French have acquired the art, more perhaps than any other nation, of " knowing nothing" of political affairs when it suits their purpose. It was even with some difficulty, and after many inquiries, that I found out the place where the conspirators were guillotined.

It is a small square, marked by four rows of upright stones, and has a very mean appearance. In the middle of this square the scaffold was erected, but nothing remained of the " dreadful preparations ;" a large flag, which marks the centre of the square, is the only guide to the precise spot where this last effort of treason was expiated. The town was crowded with military, and the police seemed more on the alert here than in any town through which I had yet passed. Left Poitiers for Bordeaux. The road as far as An gouleme, which is nearly half the way, presents few scenes of picturesque beauty. Indeed one of the most interesting objects we witnessed this day was a simple, but at the same time a beautiful, sun-set. A zone of deep blue cloud surrounded all the lower part of the horizon. As the sun approached it in the west from a magnificent purple cloud, in which his hght had just been veiled, the deep blue colour was not much diminished, while its verge, which was remarkably well defined, was suddenly edged with living gold all round the horizon, except far away towards the east, where the shades of evening were already risen.

After the sun descended behind this blue zone, he was seen no more ; but a canopy of purple and gold long remained in the west, as if to preserve the memory of his departure. Between Angouleme and Bordeaux the country is chiefly composed of hills and valleys, whence the roads are steep, and difficult to be kept in repair. But though such a disposition of country be unfavourable to the traveller in one respect, he is more than recompensed for any inconvenience he may suffer, by the variety of the scenery through which he passes. The hills are high, almost approaching to the class of mountains, and are nearly all clothed with vineyards, corn fields, or woods to their very summits. The horizon is bounded on one side by ridges crowned with trees, whose branches seem to touch the clouds ; and on the other, hill rises over hill, affording here and there level spots and gentle declivities, which are occupied by chateaus and hamlets, churches with their picturesque spires, ruins of castles, and windmills.