Peak Scenery, or Excursions in Derbyshire ... With engravings by ... W. B. and G. Cooke from drawings ... by F. L. Chantrey. L.P

Front matter

PEAK SCENERY; OR, THE DERBYSHIRE TOURIST. BY E. RHODES. Ah ! who can look on Nature's face And feel unholy passions move ? Her forms of Majesty and Grace I cannot chuse but love. — Montgomery's Peak Mountains. LONDON: 1-RINTED for LONGMAN, HlrRsST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN, PATEKNOSTER-ROW ; AND THE AUTHOR, SHEFFIELD. 1824. London : Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New- Street- Square. DEDICATION TO THE QUARTO EDITION. TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. MY LORD DUKE, Influenced by my feelings, my predilec tions, and my wishes, I solicited permission to dedi cate the following Sketches of the Peak Scenery of Derbyshire to your Grace. It is apparent that in so doing I had it less in contemplation to compliment you than to do honour to myself: for the permission however, and the handsome manner in which it was communicated, allow me thus publicly to return you my thanks.

In the future progress of this work, your Grace's name can hardly fail to produce advantages probably far beyond what I at present anticipate, and open channels of information which may essentially facilitate its improvement, and extend its utility. Ab stracted from this consideration, to what other indi vidual could the following pages be inscribed with a « DEDICATION. equal propriety? You possess a mansion that may be denominated the Palace of the Peak ; and the munificence of that noble family, whose wealth and honours now centre in your Grace, has converted some ofthe wildest scenery of Derbyshire into a ter restrial paradise : the Banks ofthe Derwent and the Wye have been adorned and enriched by their bounty. That your Grace may live to accomplish the plans you have suggested for the still farther improvement of this very interesting district ; that you may long enjoy the esteem of good men, and the gratifying consciousness that the splendid honours of the House of Cavendish have been confirmed and enlarged by their present possessor, is the earnest wish of, My Lord Duke, Your Grace's most obliged and Humble Servant, E. RHODES. Sheffield, March 31, 1818. CONTENTS. Page Introduction xi Road Sketches xv Preliminary Chapter 1

Part I

Section I General Remarks. — Character of Derbyshire Scenery. — Picturesque Beauty. — Sea Coast Views. — Fogs, Mists and Clouds 7 Section II. — Abbey Dale Autumnal Morning. — Beauchief Abbey. — East Moor. — View into Hope Dale Froggatt Edge 11 Section III. — View from near Stoke. — Stoney Middieton. — Stoke Hall Middieton Church. — St. Martin's Bath. — Middieton Dale. — Lovers' Leap. — Roman Coins 20 Section. IV Eyam visited by the Plague in 1666. — Riley Grave Stones. — Mr. Mompesson Cucklet Church 31 Section V. — Eyam Church-Yard — Ancient Stone Cross. — The Rev. P. Cunningham Miss Seward 44 Section VI. — William Peveril. — Eyam Mineral Charter. — Hammer of Thor Druidical Circle and Ancient Barrow. — Effects of an Earthquake in a Mine on Eyam Edge 60 Section VII. — Mineral District. — Haycliff Mine. — Slickensides. — Accident in a Mine near Hucklow. — Wardlow Mears. — Wheston Cross. — Tideswell Top. — Marble Rocks in Tideswell Dale. — Singular Stratum there. — — Cotton Factories. — Tideswell. — The Church. — Bishop Purseglove. — Sampson Meurills. — Ancient Chapel. — Tideswell Church Yard. — Conclusion 67

Part II

Section I. — New Road from Tideswell to Buxton. — Monk's-dale. — Thunder Storm. —Wormhill Chee Tor. 81 a. VI CONTENTS.

Page Section II. — Observations on the River Wye. — Blackwell Mill. — Topley Pike. — Stage Coach. — Wye-Dale. — Romantic Dell and Cascade near Lover's Leap. — Arrival at Buxton 87 Section III. — Fairfield. — Lime Hills. — Poole's Hole. — Buxton Diamonds. — Ax-Edge. — Stranger at Buxton. — Source of the Wye. — Evening 92 Section IV Staden-Low. — South Entrance into Buxton. — The Crescent. - Mr. C. Sylvester's Hot-Baths. — St. Anne's Well. — Buxton Bath Charity. — Amusements. — Antiquity of the Warm-Baths. — Demolition of the Shrine and Image of St. Anne 98 Section V Leave Buxton. — Water Swallows. — Tunstead James Brindley. — Wormhill Dale. — View from Diamond Hill. — Miller's Dale. — Raven Tor. — Litton. — Mill Dale. — Cresbrook Dale. — Wm. Newton. — Difficult Passage from Litton Mill to Cressbrook. — Scenery there.. 107 Section VI. — Cressbrook Dale. — Bright Pool. — Waterfall. — Monsal Dale. — Summer Evening's Scene Moonlight View of Monsal Dale 118 Section VII. — Recollections of a former Excursion. — Edge Stone House. — Unfortunate Female. — Morning View from Great Finn. — Hob's House. — Cascade in Monsal Dale. — Lass of Taddington Dale. — Ashsord. — Black Marble. — Rotten Stone , 123 Section VIII. — Bakewell. — New Bath. — Bakewell Churchyard. - — Ancient Stone Cross. — Epitaphs. — Chantry at Bakewell. — Antiquity of Bakewell Castle Hill. — Interview with a poor Hindoo 130 Section IX.— Haddon Valley. — Haddon Hall. — The Vernon Family. — Chapel at Haddon. — Roman Altar. — Ancient Tapestry. —_, Gallery at Haddon. — Reflections on Haddon. — Lime Trees. — Farewell to the River Wye 140 Section X. — Edensor. — Monument to the Ear] of Devonshire in the Church. — Inscription to the Memory of John Beton. — Chatsworth Park and House Cascade in the Garden. — Fountain in the Court. — Figure of Arion 149 Section XI. — Interior of Chatsworth. — Paintings. — Verrio and Laguerre. — Gallery of Drawings. — Chapel. — Library. — Tapestry Sculpture. — Portraits. — Closterman. — Sir James Thornhill. — Carving in Wood Gibbons. — Samuel Watson Cibber 155 Section XII. — Reflections on leaving Chatsworth. — Projected improvement of Chatsworth House. — Mary Queen of Scots imprisoned there. — Marshal Tallard. — Hobbes. — St. Evremond to Waller Recollections of a former visit to Chatsworth K55 CONTENTS.

VII

Part III

Page Section I. — Excursion commenced. — Banner Cross. — Curious Effect of Clouds Enter Derbyshire. — Burbage Brook. — "View from Milstone Edge. — Winter of 1813. — Hathersage. — Little John's Grave. — Hathersage Church. — Camp Green 175 Section II. — Hope Dale. — Recollections of a former Excursion Approach to Castleton Fine Autumnal Evening. — Castleton Church. — Peak's Hole 182 Section III. — Cave Dale. — View from the Hills above Juvenile Beggars at Castleton. — Fluor Mines. — Odin Mine Mam Tor. — Winnats. — Speedwell Mine.— Faujas de St. Fond. — Mawe and Whitehurst 189 Section IV. — Mid-day View of Castleton Vale Ebbing and Flowing Well Approach to Chapel-en-le-Frith. — Chinle}'. — The Apostle of the Peak. — Kinderscout. — Evening at Glossop. — Catholic Chapel at Glossop Hall. — Glossop Church. — Rush-Bearing. — Monument to the Memory of Joseph Hague, Esq. — Brief Memoir of him... 198 Section V. — The river Etherow. — Broad Bottom Bridge. — Compstall Bridge. — View from Compstall House. — Cotton Printing. — Junction of the Etherow and the Goyt. — Marple Bridge. — Mellor Mill. — S. Oldknow, Esq. — Scenery ofthe Goyt 20.*5 Section VI. — Return from Glossop. — Peak Forest. — Eldon Hole Bagshaw Cavern. — Small Dale. — Lime-kiln Fires. — Night Scene Morning in Hope Dale. — Hope Brough. — The River Derwent 212 Section VII. — High-low. — Leam. — Padley. — Approach to Calver. — Calver Lime. — Morning Scene. — Hassop Hall. — Longstone. — Godfrey Rowland — his imprisonment in the Castle ofthe Peak 219 Section VIII. — Money- Ash. - Marble Quarries. — Source of the Lathkil. — Scene near Conksbury Bridge. — Youlgrave. — Arbor-Low. — Bradford River. — Alport. — Tufa Rocks 226 Section IX. — Stanton. — Visit there in the Month of November. — Andle Stone. — Plantations on Stanton Moor. — View from the Hill near Cat Stone. — Stanton Lees. — Stanton House : fine Work there by Gibbons 232 Section X. — Druidical Circle on Hartle Moor. — Snake Stones. — Mock Beggar Hall. — Cratcliff Tor. — Winster. — Birchover. — Rowter Rocks. — View from the Road near Birchover 239 Section XI. — Approach to Matlock. — Visit to Lums-Dale. — Lime-Tree Lane. — Entrance into Matlock Dale. — a CONTENTS.

Approach to Matlock Bath. — ■ General Character of the Scenery of the Dale. — Walk to Stonnis — View from thence. — Evening Scene from Masson. — Morning in Matlock Dale. — Heights of Abraham. — Museum. — Inns and Lodging Houses 246 Section XII. — Willersley House.— The late Sir Richard Arkwright. — Mouse Hole Mine. — Side Mine. — Riber Top Moonlight in Matlock Dale. — Winter Excursion to Matlock. — Canova's Statue of the Mother of Bona parte — his Bust of Laura. — Snow Scenery at Matlock... 257

Part IV

Section I. — Last Excursion into Derbyshire. — Reflections on the word, Last Meersbrook House. — Samuel Shore, Esq Old House at Norton Lees. — Walk from Heeley to Norton. — Norton Hall and Park. — Norton House and the Oakes. — Manor of Norton 267 Section II. — Memoir of Chantrey the Sculptor 276 Section III. — Whittington Revolution House Centenary Commemoration of the Revolution of 1688. — The Procession Ball and Concert. — Walk from Whittington to Chesterfield. — Smelting Furnaces. — Local History of Chesterfield. — The Church Spire. — Walk to Ashover. — Scene from Stone Edge. — Approach to Ashover. — Ashover Church Eastwood Hall, &c 289 Section IV. — Overton Hall. — Sir Joseph Banks. — South Winfield. — The Manor House. — Description of the Ruins. — Reflections on their present Appearance. — Siege of the Manor House. — Crich. — Friendly Societies. — Whit- Monday in Derbyshire. — Walk from Crich to Cromford. — Lea Wood. — Dethick. — Historical Notice of Babington -. 299 Section V. — Morning at Matlock. — Via Gellia. — Hopton. — Sir John Gell. — Carsington. — Rocks in the Vicinity of Brassington. — Derbyshire Trossacks. — Tissington. — Ancient Custom of Dressing Wells with Flowers. — Night Walk to Ashbourne 311 .Section VI. — Ashbourne Church. — Monument by Banks. — Walk to Dove Dale View of the Dale from the Descent near Thorpe Cloud. — Character ofthe River Dove.

Dove Dale Church Reynard's Cave. — Fatal Occurrence there View from this part of the Dale. — The Narrow Pass. — Retrospect of the Character of the whole Dale. — Rocky Portals, and the Meadows beyond. — Rousseau, and his Visit to the Vicinity of Dove Dale 3 9 Section VII. — Visit to Ham. — Vale of Ham. — Ham Hall — interesting Apartment there. — Village Church. — Chan- CONTENTS. IX trey's Monument for the New Chapel. — Observations on Monumental Sculpture. — Ancient Stone Cross in Ham. — View in Ham Vale after a Rain-storm. — Congreve's Grotto. — Morning Scene. — The Rivers Hamps and Manyfold. — Contemplated Improvements at Ham. — Second Visit to Ham. — The New Hall. — Intended Conservatory and Pic ture Gallery, &c 329 Section VIII. — Wirksworth. — Moot Hall. — Mineral Laws. — Miraculous Escape of a Miner. —New Road from Matlock to Derby. — Unexpected Rencontre. — General Character of the Scenery. — Beautiful Effect of Light during a Shower of Rain. — Walk to Belper 339 Section IX. — Recurrence to a former Visit to Belper. — Bridge Hill. — View of Belper from the Road to Heage. — Pentrich. — Revolutionists of 1817. — Roman Station on Pentrich Common. — Alfreton. — Hardwick Park. — Hardwick Hall and Picture Gallery 346 Section X. — Walk from Hardwick to Bolsover Bolsover. — The Buckle Manufacture formerly there. — Bolsover Church. — The Dead Robin. — Bolsover Castle Ancient Fountain. — Historical Notice of Bolsover Castle. — The Terrace, Rampart and Watch Towers. — King Charles' Visit to Bolsover. — Renishaw Hall. — Return to Sheffield. Retrospection. — Conclusion 353 Peak Archery

Introduction

TO THE FIRST EDITION OF THIS WORK. Ihe Peak of Derbyshire has been often visited by the British tourist, and the pencil and the pen have occasionally been employed to illustrate its most frequented scenery ; hitherto, however, it has not been regarded as a place of primary con sideration. Gilpin, whose mind was sensibly alive to all that is grand and picturesque in landscape, and who may de servedly be held in the highest estimation as an intelligent and entertaining traveller, has treated Derbyshire with ap parent indifference. After passing hastily through several of its valleys, and spending an hour or two on the tops of some of its mountains, he has devoted a few pages only, in one of his works, to a brief detail of its beauties. His accurate and elegant descriptions of Dove-dale and Matlock, leave his readers to regret that he travelled over so small a portion of this remote part of the kingdom, and gave so little of his time and talents to the investigation of those romantic dells with which it abounds.

The wild scenery on the banks of the Wye, which every where presents a rich variety of pictur esque beauty, occasionally marked with great grandeur, is scarcely noticed by him. Even the magnificent mansion of Haddon, that venerable record of the hospitable manners and introduction. customs of our old English baronage, occupies only a few short sentences. This veteran tourist passed through the Peak of Derbyshire immediately on his return from a journey to the Lakes, at a time when probably nothing less stupendous than the objects which he had left behind, could have at tracted his attention. Derbyshire, however, notwithstanding the neglect it has experienced, is richly stored with the most valuable materials for picturesque purposes. The wildness of its mountains, the beauty of its dales, and the various objects with which they are adorned, entitle it to a distinction it has never yet attained, and constitute a powerful claim to individual consideration.

In works principally devoted to other objects, it has occasionally been permitted to appear ; yet even then it has occupied but a subordinate situation ; expelled the foreground of the composition, it has only served to fill up the distance of the picture. Such are the considerations that have induced the author of these excursions to appropriate nearly the whole of his canvass to the scenery of Derbyshire, and to give it a station more honourable to its character, and more worthy of its pretensions. This highly interesting county abounds with objects of a more important character than rocks and rivers, dales and mountains ; objects that may animate the industry, and reward the research of the mineralogist ; supply the antiquary with materials that may excite him to penetrate into the secrets of days gone by, and enable him to unfold the records of former times ; gratify the lover of local history, and furnish to the geological student, and the man enamoured of philosophic speculation, an ample field for the display of their faculties, and the free indulgence of unrestrained con jecture.

These, though not intimately connected with the immediate pursuits of the Picturesque Traveller, will frequently present themselves to his observation, and sometimes introduction. XIII require particular attention. The author of the following pages therefore hopes, that he shall not be closely confined within the narrow limits apparently prescribed by his original design, and the title under which he has chosen to appear ; but that, occasionally, he may be permitted lo trespass be yond so circumscribed a boundary, whenever the history of the place he visits, or the stores which it may contain, pro mise to reward his wanderings. From the preceding remarks it will appear that no regular topographical account of any part of Derbyshire is intended in the following pages ; therefore, the author trusts he shall not be censured for not accomplishing what was never in his contemplation.

He has selected his own plan, and he has chosen that which not only leaves him free and unshackled in his operations, but gives him an uncontrolled dominion over every object that may be presented to his observation. The topographer is circumscribed in his proceedings, and restrained in all his movements. He must necessarily travel over all the ground his design embraces, however dull and uninteresting it may prove ; the tourist has higher privileges and a happier avocation ; like a bird upon the wing, he ex plores a wide horizon, flits over all that is uninviting, and rests only on pleasant places. Farther to develope the plan of this work is unnecessary, yet it may not be wholly useless to say that it has originated in a series of Rambles undertaken for the purposes only of pleasure and amusement.

The observations suggested, and the memorandums made on these occasions, gradually accu mulated in bulk and interest, until they had assumed a form which induced the writer to prepare them for the press. Elegant printingand finely-executed engravings were not then in his contemplation, but, thrown amongst Artists of no inferior estimation, he has gladly availed himself of their as-

INTRODUCTION.

. sistance, and now rests his hopes of success more on their labours than his own. Such is the history of these Excursions. The author is fully aware ofthe magnitude of his undertaking, and he knows that it can only be accomplished at considerable expense.* The tedious and unavoidable procrastination that often attends productions which have their sole dependance on one or two artists only, and those men eminently great in their profession, may render the best concerted arrangements ineffectual. Should delay, or want of success, or any other event terminate these Excursions with the publication of the first or second part, the writer can console himself with the reflection, that he has not only intended well, but that he has left behind him a magnificent outline, which he hopes may yet be filled up by some more fortunate and able tourist.

The author cannot close these introductory observations without acknowledging his obligations to Mr. Chantrey, the artist, whose Sketches of the Peak Scenery of Derbyshire, so essentially contribute to illustrate and embellish the following pages. Remote as this interesting part of the kingdom is from his present residence, he has repeatedly visited it, unin fluenced by considerations of expense, for the purpose of making a series of drawings for this production, which have been gratuitously presented to the writer, as a token of his friendship, and a mark of his attachment to his native county. To say more on this subject might be useless ; to say less would be ungrateful. * The reader is requested to recollect that this refers to the Quarto Edition only. ROAD SKETCH, No. I. XV From DERBY to MATLOCK BATH by KEDLE- STON. — 17 Miles.

Miles Derby from Lon- 1 . gfi Objects ivorthy notice. n I Derby. Porcelain manufactory. * The George [nn. Brown and Co.'s manufactory of * The Bell. ornaments, made of the marbles Page ROAD SKETCH, No. I. XVI From DERBY to MATLOCK BATH by KEDLE STON. — 17 Miles. N. B. The Inns marked * are Posting Houses. I Miles Page * The King's Head.1 * The New Inn. _ To Quarndon ... 3 — Kedleston Hall 0£ New Inn. To Weston Un-) g* derwood . . .J * — Cross Hands) 0i Inn } | 2i — Bateman Bridge 3^ — Wirksworth . J If Red Lion Inn. To Cromford ... 2 Greyhound Inn. and fluors of Derbyshire. The infirmary. All Saints church. At Quarndon there is a strong chalybeate spring, which is much frequented during the summer months. Kedleston Hall. A magnificent modern mansion, the residence of Lord Scarsdale. Contains a splendid collection of pictures.

May be seen from eleven o'clock to two every day, Sundays excepted. Cromford. Near is Willersley Castle, the residence of Richard Arkwright, Esq. The grounds and gardens about this mansion are eminently beautiful. Matlock Bath. Rutland and Cumberland caverns. Petrifying wells. Botanic garden. The Museum. The Baths. Mr. Arkwright's grounds. The Romantic Rocks, fenced from general observation by a paling about two yards high, and permitted to be seen for sixpence each person !! ! N.B. The hill called " The Heights of Abraham," may be climbed any hot day in summer for the same reasonable sum, each time. 2 4- 310 To Matlock Bath J 0£ Oi 249 * Old Bath Inn. * Saxton's Hotel. Museum Hotel. Lodging Houses. The Temple. Fox's. Walker's, &c. &c. ROAD SKETCH, No. II. XVII From DERBY to MATLOCK BATH by BELPER. 17 Miles. a MUes 4£ 2 2 8 Page To Duffield .... — Millford .... — Belper — Cromford . . . — Matlock Bath .

Worthy notice. Millford. Extensive cotton factories. Belper. Large cotton works, and at Bridge Hill, the seat of G.B. Strutt, Esq. ROAD SKETCH, No. III. XVIII MATLOCK BATH to DOVE DALE. — 13 Miles. Worthy notice. Page Matlock Bath 1 from London . j To Cromford . . . _ Via Gellia . . . — Hopton . . . . — Tissington . . . — Spen Lane . . . 142* Oi 1 si 5 1 Via Gellia, a picturesque road made through the dales from Bonsai Mill to Hopton, the residence of Philip Gell, Esq. M.P. From Hopton to Tissington leave Brassington to the right. On ROAD SKETCH, No. III. XIX MATLOCK BATH to DOVE DALE. — 13 Miles, a 2 To Thorp — Ilam Hall . . . — Ashbourne . . . Miles 1 1 5 Brassington Moor are several curious clusters of rocks. Tissington. The residence of Sir Henry Fitzherbert. Near Tissington, cross the road from Buxton to Ashbourn ; turn down Spen Lane to the Dog and Partridge ; leave the house on the left hand, and proceed to Thorp.

Thorp Cloud, a high mountain, which guards the entrance into Dove Dale : entering the village of Thorp, leave the Ilam road by a sharp turn into an open meadow on the right, then keeping Thorp Cloud on the left, pass between the hills into Dove Dale. Within a mile of Dove Dale is Ilam Hall, the residence of Watts Russel, Esq. M.P. This beautiful mansion is situated in one of the most romantic vales in the kingdom, on the Staffordshire side of the river Dove : it should be seen by all who visit Dove Dale. The road to Ilam Hall is between Thorp and Thorp Cloud. Travellers with carriages may go to Ilam first, return over the fields to Bunster Dale, and ford the river, which may be done very conveniently at the foot of Thorp Cloud, where Dove Dale commences; or they may take the contrary route, ford the river at the same place, and after passing along Bunster Dale, cross the fields to Ilam.

Page 314 315 320 ROAD SKETCH, No. IV. XX MATLOCK BATH to BAKEWELL. — 10 Miles I Miles To Matlock Bridge' 1 J — Moot Hall Mine' 1 — Darley Church j 2i — Rowsley .... 2 — Haddon Hall . 1 — Bakewell ... J 2 * The Rutland Arms. Worthy notice. Matlock Bath. Pass the High Tor through the dale to Matlock Bridge. Moot Hall Mine. In this mine beautiful specimens of pyrites, lead ore, and rose-coloured sulphate of barytes are found. Haddon Hall, belonging to the Duke of Rutland : a very fine specimen ofthe old baronial mansion of former times. Bake-well. The church, the bath, and Mr. White Watson's mineral Page 249 246 140 ROAD SKETCH, No. IV. XXI MATLOCK BATH to BAKEWELL. — 10 Miles. a 3 Miles Page collection. The river Wye is here a beautiful stream, and well stocked with trout and grayling. In summer it is much resorted to for angling.

Near the bridge iat Rowsley, 3£ miles from Bakewell, there is a road to Chatsworth by Beeley Edensor * Edensor Inn. To Bakewell .... Edensor. Near the inn is Chatsworth House, the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, and the " Palace of the Peak." The park, the house, the gardens, and the water-works, are objects of great interest to Derbyshire travellers.! From Chatsworth pass through! Edensor to Bakewell. 149 2 li 151 Si ROAD SKETCH, No. V. XXII BAKEWELL to BUXTON. — 12 Miles. Miles Bakewell from 1 . -g, London .... J s To Ashford .... 2 — Taddington . . 3i — Topley Pike . . 2 — Pig Tor ... . 2 Objects worthy notice. Page At Ashford. Marble mills and the black marble mines. One mile from Ashford leave Monsal Dale on the right, and pass through Taddington Dale. ROAD SKETCH, No. V. XXIII BAKEWELL to BUXTON.— 12 Miles.

To Lovers' Leap . — Buxton :ap . 1 Topley Pike. A very high hill, on ... li the side ofwhich the road is car- , ried along a fearful eminence into ' * , the dale below. Chee Tor lies I " about a mile lower down the river than Topley Pike. Pig Tor. A high barren rock on the right of the river Wye. Lovers' Leap. A jutting rock, situated in a picturesque ravine, amongst scenery extremely wild and romantic. Buxton. The baths, the spar shops, Poole's Hall, Diamond Hill, the assembly rooms, and the theatre. Miles 1 li .Page 89 * Centre Hotel. * Crescent Hotel. * Great Hotel. * The Hall. * The George. * The Grove. * The Eagle. * The Shakspeare. * The Angel. 84 90 98 Lodging Houses. Muirhead ~\ C^on Sua Billinge j Cotterill S Orme ( Hall Crowder f Wright ) Brandreth 1 jr Greenwood j ' Jones 1 Marl Lees J &c. &c. &c. Square.

Hall Bank. Irongate. Market Place. ROAD SKETCH, No. VI. XXIV BUXTON to CASTLETON and BAKEWELL. 194 Miles. Miles 'age Buxton by Ash- "J bourn from > '. London . . . .} To Fairfield .... 160 1 ROAD SKETCH, No. VI. XXV BUXTON to CASTLETON and BAKEWELL. 19i Miles. CASTLETON to BAKEWELL by MIDDLETON DALE L — 13 Miles. To Dove Hole . . . — Ebbing and 1 Flowing Well .J — Perry Foot . . — Winnats .... — Castleton .... * Castle Inn. — Wardlow Miers — Bull's Head") near Long- > stone J — Ashford . . . . — Bakewell . . . . Miles 2i Worthy notice. Page Ebbing and Flowing Well, one of the reputed wonders of Derbyshire, lies in a field by the road side, about a mile from Perry Foot. Winnats. A narrow rocky chasm, through which the road winds into Castleton Dale. Castleton. Mam Tor, Speedwell Mine, Odin Mine, the fluor caverns, and the spar shops.

Bull's Head. From the hill near this public house there is a fine view into Monsal Dale. 199 1 1 li li 192 5 2i 183 li 2 124 Miles 5 li Worthy notice. Page To Wardlow .... — Middleton Dale — Stony Mid- 1 dleton j * Moon Inn. — Calver — Hassop — Bakewell .... H Wardlow. Near the public house by the toll bar, leave the road to Bakewell on the right, and proceed to Middleton Dale, a ravine of naked rock. Calver, famous for its lime kilns. Hassop, a pleasant village. The hall is the residence of Lord Kinnaird, the eldest son of Earl Newburgh. 71 28 1 li 2A 222 ROAD SKETCH, No. VII. XXVI BUXTON to DOVE DALE and ASHBOURN. 20 Miles. 1 To Newhaven . . . — New Inn .... — Tissington . . . — Dove Dale . . . Miles 11 3 2 2 Objects worthy notice. Newhaven, originally an inn only, but now a little village.

At this place there is an annual fair for 'age ROAD SKETCH, No. VII. XXVII BUXTON to DOVE DALE and ASHBOURN. 20 Miles. Tissington to ) Ashbourn . . . j Miles 4 cattle, which is generally numerously attended. New Inn. Notwithstanding the name of this place, it is only a farm-house. Tissington. See No. III. Dove Dale. Ditto. Ashbourn. The church is a fine structure, and contains a monument, by Banks, to the memory of the only daughter of Sir Brooke Boothby, which is exquisitely beautiful, and worthy a visit from all Derbyshire tourists. Page * The Green Man. * The Moor's Head. 315 321 317 Derby. — All-Saints' Church. — Porcelain and Derbyshire Spar Manufactory. — the Infirmary. — Kedleston Park. — Kedleston Hall, Pictures, and Statues. — Description of the Road from Kedleston to Wirksworth. VVith some trifling alterations and unimportant omissions, the following pages are the reprint of a more costly work, published under the title of " Peak Scenery," and illustrated with a series of engravings from drawings by the celebrated sculptor Chantrey.

It now appears in a less assuming, but, perhaps, a more useful form. The Excursions contained in this volume commence at Sheffield, a place situated within one mile only of the northern extremity of Derbyshire ; but as a great majority of those who may make it a travelling companion, may probably approach the more romantic divisions of the county in a contrary direction, a preliminary chapter, beginning with Derby, may neither be an unacceptable nor an useless introduction to the subsequent pages. I shall therefore suppose them snugly seated at an inn, in the principal town of the county, ready to accompany me to the Peak Scenery of Derbyshire. This very interesting portion of the kingdom is distinguished by a great variety of form, soil, and structure. In the more southern districts, where the red marl chiefly prevails, it is flat; and although best adapted to agricultural purposes, it has but few charms for the picturesque tourist, who is most delighted where hills, and dales, and mountain streams make up the prospect.

This part of Derbyshire is, therefore, travelled over with comparatively but little interest; but its other divisions, its lands of " red heather," and " mist and mountain," excite more pleasing and more powerful emotions : they are adorned with some of the most beautiful and romantic scenery in the kingdom ; and in the con- B templation of those who visit Derbyshire for pleasure, and not for profit, they constitute the county itself. Hence it is that this descriptive tour, passing over thousands of well cultivated acres and fertile meadows, commences in the im mediate vicinity of Derby. Descending the hill from Burton, or approaching the town from Nottingham, it is a good feature in the landscape ; and the lofty tower of All-Saints' Church, rising like a magnificent land-mark far above every surrounding object, beautifully intimates the consequence of the place which it dignifies and adorns.