Steam Voyages on the Seine, the Moselle and the Rhine; with railroad visits to the principal cities of Belgium

Front matter

STEAM VOYAGES. VOL. I. QnStrjnoiFrMlF.M: .;■'■- STEAM VOYAGES ON THE SEINE, THE MOSELLE, & THE RHINE WITH RAILROAD VISITS TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF BELGIUM, &sc. 8fC Bv MICHAEL J. QUIN, Esq., Author qf " A Steam Voyage down the Danube," " A Year in Spain," 8sc. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1843. J. L. COX * SONS, PBINTKR9 TO TBE HONOOBABLE EA8T-INDIA COMPART, 74 & 75, Gt. Queen St. Lincoln's-Inn Fields.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. It -was Mr. Quin's merit and good fortune to open to his fellow-countrymen, and, in deed, to foreign tourists in general, the grand and peculiar attractions which The Danube had in store for their admiration. His " Steam Voyage" down that river has been diffused all over the continent, not only in the English, but also in the French and German languages, and has induced great numbers of persons to visit scenes which had been previously almost unknown. In the present work, Mr. Quin has per formed a similar office for the river Moselle, which, although familiar as to its name, on account of the exquisite wines produced upon its banks, has hitherto lain as much vol. i. b VI

Chapter II

Lillebone. Our Musicians. Breakfast. Our Waitress. Her Activity. An Old Maid. Villequier. The Poplar. Caudebec. A lost Island. Pictures on board. Jumieges. The Giant's Chair. Signs of Prosperity . . . . 20

Chapter III

A Steam Raft. Its Construction. Robert-le-Diable. Rouen. Tower of the Cathedral. A Magic Mirror. Trade of Rouen. Hill of St. Catherine. Curious Carvings. Rouen Museum. Dorade Steamer. Elbeuf. An EngUsh Artist. A French Artist. Young France. An Octogenarian . . . . CONTENTS. X PAGE

Chapter IV

Conveniences of Steamers. Prolongation of Life. German Philosophy. Vernon. Animated Scenery. Paucity of Birds. Paddles of the Dorade. Roch- Guyon. Count D'Enghien. La Belle Mantes. Arrival at Paris 57

Chapter V

Motives of Second Journey. A Florentine Gentleman. Travelling Companion. The late Mr. Bellew. Sir M. D. Bellew. Menai Steamer. A Minerva. A Snuff-man. Benefits of Snv.ff. Three Corsicans. A second Napoleon 76

Chapter VI

A City Man. A Traveller. Dinner. Ginger Beer. Empty Sounds. A Royal Salute. Arrival at Ostend. Church of St. Peter. Mrs. Trollope. Image of the Virgin. Mr. Beckford. Ostend. The Sluice-gates. Paret's Museum. Monstrosities. A Camera Obscura . . . . . . 88

Chapter VII

Ostend. Railway. Railway inconveniences. Bruges. Houses in Bruges. Bruges Ladies. The Chimes. Piety of the People. The Cathedral. Notre Dame. Statue of the Virgin. Hospital of St. John. Charity Sisters. Wordsworth. Southey. Hemling . . . . . . . . 104

Chapter VIII

Mrs. Trollope. Church of the Capuchins. Attentions to Cleanliness. Capuchin Monks. Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Hotel de Ville. Chapel of St. Basil. Mary of Burgundy. Her Monument. Curious Chimney-piece. Magnificent Prospect. English Convent .. .. ..118 CONTENTS. XI PAGE

Chapter IX

Ghent. Ladies of Ghent. Ghent Gentlemen. The Cathedral. Chapel of " The Lamb." The Palm Tree. English Candelabras. Episcopal Monument. The Crypt. Desecration of Churches. St. Michael's Church. Church of St. Nicholas. Oliver Minjau. The Theatre . . . . 130

Chapter X

Red and White Roses. Way to the Races. Ladies of Ghent. Ghent Gentlemen. Race Booths. Scene on the Course. The Spectators. Groups on the Course. The lower Booths. Quitting the Field. The Return Home. Prosperity of Ghent. Its general Appearance. Cultivation of Flowers. People of Ghent. Ancient Ghent . . . . . . . . 146

Chapter XI

The Wonder of Ghent. The Beguinage. Menage of a Beguine. Her Fancy Work. Her Duties. Beguine Dress. Evening Service. The Benediction. Solemn Scene. Antiquity of Beguines. My Uncle Toby. Carmelite Chapel. Elaborate Carvings. A Cowled Monk .. .. ..160

Chapter XII

Journey to Malines. Cardinal of Malines. Cathedral. Splendid Monument. Vandyk. Rubens. Rubens's Charges. Pork Pie. O'Connell. Brussels. Dr. Lever. The Park. The Library. St. Gudule. Dullness of Brussels . . 173

Chapter XIII

Waterloo. Serjeant-Major Cotton. British Bivouac. Inclement Weather. Chateau of Hougoumont. Field of Battle. Forest of Soignes. Chapel of Hougoumont. Its CONTENTS. PAGE Crucifix. Statue of the Virgin. Terrible Slaughter. M. Robiano. Position of the Guards. The Pyramid. The Weather. Antwerp. The Cathedral. The Golden Fleece. Vespers. Painted Windows. Dixit Dominus. The Con fitebor. The Beatus Vir. The Laudate. The Mass. The Song of Evening. The Magnificat. Recal of the Jews. The Procession . . . . . . . . . . 186

Chapter XIV

The Blacksmith of Antwerp. The Two Misers. Tower of the Cathedral. View from the Tower. General Chasse. The late King of Holland. Chimes of Antwerp. Tomb of Rubens. St. Jaques. The Holy Family. Fac-simile of Calvary. Church of St. Andrew. The Museum. Departure for Liege. Varied aspect of the Country. Louvaine. The Library. Former Manufactories. Expulsion of the Weavers. Their Guildhall. The University. The Hotel de Ville. The Cathedral 200

Chapter XV

Arrival at Liege. Its busy appearance. Quentin Durward, • The Wonder of Liege. Mineral Fountains. Caverns. Chaud-fontaine. Its many Attractions. Beautiful Landscape. Young Blanchiseuses. A Dwarf. A Bible Distributor. Translations of the Scriptures. The Warm Fountain. Railway to Cologne. The Brigand Idriel. Scheme for his Capture .. .. .. 211

Chapter XVI

Visit to Spa. Castle of Franchimont. Its concealed Treasures. Appearance of Spa. Its Public Estabhshments. Its Waters. Their dangerous Effects. Ardennes Ponies. CONTENTS. XIII PAGE Country round Spa. Curious Cave. Toys of Spa. Re turn to Liege. Departure from Liege. Serang. Messrs. Cockerill's Estabhshments. Vineyards. Banks of the Meuse. Huy. Its Citadel. Journey to Namur. Extra ordinary Rocks. Their strange Configurations. A beautiful Solitude-View of Namur 224

Chapter XVII

Namur. Church of St. Loup. Jesuit College. Journey to Dinant. First View of Dinant. Origin of its Name. The Cave of Trou de Hans. Road to the Cave. The Royal Hunting Lodge. Pretty Scenery. Forest of Ardennes. Its abundant Game. Open Country. Its Hungarian Appearance. Our Voiturier. The Village of Hans. M. Lefevre. Discovery of the Cave . . . . . . . . 238

Chapter XVIII

Cabaret of Hans. Its Parlour Ornaments. Lodge near the Cave. Entrance to the Cave. Romantic Lake. Wonderful Echoes. Straw Torches. Picture of Charon and his Bark. Navigation of the Lake. Stalactites. Beaks of Birds. Curious Drapery. Morning Star. Fish-Market. The Hall of Debarkation. Boudoir of Proserpine. Her Wardrobe. Sinuosities of the Cavern. Its vast extent. Club of Hercules. Grotto of Mont Blanc. Ostrich Feathers. Colossal Dome. Perilous Return. Remarks on the Cavern. Ladies advised not to enter it . . . . 250

Chapter XIX

Departure for Luxemburg. Shakspeare's Forest. A dear Cup of Coffee. The Capuchin Church at Arion. Festival Day. Luxemburg. Its renowned Fortifications. Road CONTENTS. XIV PAGE to Treves. Admirable Cultivation. First View of the Moselle. Village of Marter. Fine Fields of Corn. Vines. Village of Igel. Its celebrated Monument. Secundini Family. Description of the Monument. Subjects of the Sculptures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264

Chapter XX

Monument of Igel continued. Interior of a Chamber. A Warehouse. Country between Igel and Treves. Stone Crosses. Treves. Its great antiquity. Its former renown. Its decay. Ruined by the Goths and Vandals. Situation of Treves. The Black Gate. The Bishop's Bench. A Holy Anchorite. The Amphitheatre. Barbarous Exhibitions. Lancers exercising. Tunnels in the Rock. Public Baths. Cathedral of St. Helen. The Baptismal Font. The Archbishopric. The present King of Prussia. Electoral Tombs .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 277

Chapter XXI

Gradual of the Choir. The Crypts. Church of Our Lady. Fornier Churches of Treves. Palace of the Electors. Appearance of a Cross in the Sky. Optical Illusions. Atmospheric Influences. Poem of Conrad Celles. Ausonius. His Poem on the Charms of the Moselle. Former Navigation of the River . . . . . . . . . . _ 289

Chapter XXII

Steam Navigation of the Moselle. Our Embarkation. The Country Village of Pfalzel. Forges of Quint. Curves in the River. ViUage of Riol. Saloon of the Vessel. A Farmer. ViUage of Trittenheim. The Friar Trithemius. CONTENTS. XV PAGE Accusation of Sorcery. The Friar's Celebrity. Calumnies against him. Invocations of the Dead. Mary of Burgundy. An Incantation. The Friar's Doctrine . . . . 300

Chapter XXIII

Camp of Constantine. Neumagen. Aerial Cross. Seen by the Emperor and his Troops. Constantine's Vision. He adopts the Cross for his Standard. Gibbon. Beauties of the MoseUe. ViUage of Piesport. Best Wines. Charming Landscapes. Vineyards. Gardens. The deUcious Braunerberger. HUl upon which it is grown. Cold Winds. Cardinal de Cusa. His Hospital. Letter to its riotous Inmates. Berncastle. Exquisite Scenery. Ancient Manners. Character ofthe MoseUe .. .. .. .. ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. View of Dinant LFrmitispiece. VOL. II. Castle of Ely Frontispiece. STEAM VOYAGES ON THE MOSELLE AND OTHER RIVERS IN GERMANY AND FRANCE.

Chapter I

Phœnix Steamer. Accommodations. Voyage to Havre. Arrival at Havre. Harfleur. Railroad to Paris. French Characteris tics. Honfleur. Montagne de Grace. Castle of Orcher. Presale Mutton. TancarviUe. Quillebeuf. The RoUo Steamer. A French lady. Some time before I set out upon my late jour ney to Belgium, Germany, and Italy, I had occasion to visit Paris on professional business, in company with my friend Mr. Mathew Forster, VOL. I. B PHŒNIX STEAMER. now M. P. for Berwick ; and having learned from the newspapers that a new and powerful steamer, the " Phœnix," proposed to waft its passengers in eighteen hours from the Iron Gate Stairs of the Tower to the port of Havre, I gladly availed myself of this mode of conveyance, the more es pecially as I was thoroughly sick of the old jog trot diligence along the monotonous route from Calais.

I was told that a steamer in communication with the " Phœnix " would forward me on to Rouen ; but I had no notion that I could accom plish the whole way from London to Paris by steam, until I actually made the experiment. It is not a little remarkable that in these days of adver tisements and placards, so little should have been known at this side of the channel of the facilities which exist for varying the lines and modes of communication between the two capitals. I venture to say that not two out of ninety-eight readers of these pages have ever before heard that, with the exception of riding about ten minutes in an omnibus, for which they would pay the sum of six sous, they might transfer themselves, by the aid of steam, from the Thames to the Tuileries. ACCOMMODATIONS. 3 Steamers have plied for some years between Havre and Southampton.

Within the last season or two, boats of considerable power, the " Queen Adelaide " and the " Clyde,1' have been established between Havre and London. I understood that the " Phœnix" was specially built for its present station. It is certainly a very beautiful vessel. The principal saloon is fitted up in a style of decoration and luxury, which induced me altogether to forget that there was but a plank between my back and the sea, while I was stretched out on one of its magnificent couches. The ladies' room is a bijou. The furniture, the divans, as they may be called? the draperies, are of almost oriental sumptuousness and tempt even the most timorous to repose. The fare, exclusive of living, is a guinea and a half. The table is tolerably well served. In this department, I am bound to remark, that there is — or at least was — a disposition to overcharge beyond all reasonable bounds.

Two gentlemen, for in stance, ordered by way of luncheon, three mutton chops, for which eighteen-pence at the utmost would have been able compensation. They were set down in the bill at four shillings ! an exb VOYAGE TO HAVRE. tortion which was very properly resisted. The item was then reduced to half its original amount. The vessel and her engines (of a hundred and eighty horse power) are of English construction ; but the property belongs to a French company, whose members are, I believe, exclusively merchants residing in Havre. This enterprise is only one of many in which they are engaged, Havre having ranked, since the peace, among the most pros perous commercial ports of France, and very likely, sooner or later, to attract to itself much of the trade which has been hitherto enjoyed by Bor deaux.

We started from the Tower about ten o'clock (7th of June) with fifty passengers, under a brilliant sky ; notwithstanding Paddy Murphy's dole ful prognostics to the contrary, the day, though cold for the season, was remarkably fine. We soon overtook and left far behind us the " Clyde," which had set out for the same destination an hour before us. In endeavouring to avoid some small craft, which we were near running down, we grounded for a few minutes ; but we backed out of the sand-bank by reversing the motion of our pad- ARRIVAL AT HAVRE. 5 dies, and, the tide also coming to our assistance, we moved on once more at a brilliant pace. Green wich Hospital, Gravesend, Herne Bay, Margate, the North Foreland, and Ramsgate, successively displayed their well-known features. We dined merrily while passing the Downs, and, shooting through the Straits of Dover, passed into the open sea, catching here and there through our glasses shadowy views of Ambleteuse and Boulogne on one side, and of Dungeness upon the other.

The sun having bidden us a good evening, the stars soon after told us that it was time to go to bed, a bint which we took in very good part. There not being state berths for all of us, mattresses were speedily arranged in the saloon, and at four o'clock the following morning, peeping through my window after a delicious sleep, I found that we were snugly anchored before Havre. Our toilet was the work of a few moments. The Custom-house officers, however, being sti11 wrapped in profound repose, I presume, some difficulty occurred about our baggage. My friend, Mr. Forster, who was my compagnon de voyage upon this occasion, agreed with me to commit the care of our HARFLEUR. effects to a commissioner who had been recommended to us, and to proceed without delay to Rouen by the " Normandie," which was already getting up her smoke.

We accordingly landed at five o'clock, and, as the " Normandie " was not to leave until half-past six, we strolled through the town. Havre is not only advantageously but very beautifully situated on a part of the coast retiring towards the south-east from the sea, where the Seine fully discloses her mouth, and pours forth the full volume of her waters. In the time of Louis XII. it was an inconsiderable village — a mere hamlet in fact, composed of a few fishermen's huts. The ground upon which its extensive quays, and stores, and other buildings, now stand, is almost wholly composed of alluvial deposits brought down in the course of ages from the interior of the country, and stopped there by the tide. Harfleur was the principal port of Normandy so late as the commencement of the sixteenth century, — Harfleur, which is now full two English miles at the least from the sea, and no longer washed even by the current of the river.

This striking geological fact attests the quantity of matter which the Seine is constantly RAILROAD TO PARIS. 7 bringing down from the territory through which it passes, and is compelled to dispose on either side of its shores as soon as it meets the irresistible swell of the ocean. It is evident, moreover, that the roads of Havre are every year becoming more shallow, and it may be inferred that the port itself would soon have to move on farther towards the sea, if the steam-boat, that most fortunate redresser of the in conveniences necessarily incidental to some of the operations of nature, had not come to its assistance. Venice, in like manner, was almost excluded from intercourse with her well-beloved consort the Adriatic, until the talismanic power of steam restored her conjugal rights.

The numerous villas which shone in the morning beams on the heights around Havre bear witness to the wealth and numbers of its mercantile community ; and it is a remarkable circumstance that this same com munity have succeeded very lately in extorting from the government, through the agency ofthe Chamber of Deputies, a law for the construction of a railroad to Paris, which is to be subscribed for according to the English system of public companies. Down to the commencement of the last session of the RAILROAD TO PARIS. French parliament, almost every enterprise of this kind — roads, canals, bridges — were exclusively in the hands of government.* But a new era in the history of France has just begun under our eyes. Commerce, as in other parts of Europe, has already overthrown in that country the absolute power of the sword, and before many years elapse a king must be contented to reign there upon the same conditions as he reigns in England.

This is a revolution peacefully brought about by that worker of endless miracles, the steam-engine, of whose potency we can scarcely, even now, though it has just brought New York half-way over the Atlantic towards our shores, form any thing like an ade quate conception. The " Normandie " commenced operations on the Seine in July, 1835. It is a hundred and seventy eight French feet in length, and of a hundred and twenty horse power, — the fare ten francs for the principal places — for the secondary, six francs — from Havre to Rouen. There is a restaurateur on board, so that you can live as you like, breakfast * It is now in progress of construction, 1843. FRENCH CHARACTERISTICS. or dine at any hour you please, in cabinets which are raised upon the deck. When we went on board we found a considerable number of passengers already assembled there, all French, with three or four exceptions.

A band was also on board, manifestly a part of the establishment. And here I could not help noticing a characteristic which marked at once the decided difference that exists between the genius of the French and English people, separated though they be from each other by so narrow a channel. A set of musicians on board a Richmond steamer, for instance, would be just the sort of group we often meet in the streets of London — one dressed in blue, another in an old black surtout, a third in a rusty brown coat with a velvet collar that had seen better days, a fourth probably in a mariner's jacket or a Scotch plaid, their instruments being a violoncello, a fiddle or two, a clarionet, and a harp. But the band of the " Normandie " was all military in its appearance. Its members were dressed in uniform, a dim grey turned up with green — a cap perched on the side of the head over thick curling hair — moustaches and formidable whiskers which almost concealed HONFLEUR. the human " face divine," — the instruments, French horns, trombones, and clarionets.

They played several quadrilles very indifferently, and yet not without a certain degree of effect, merely from the military precision which marked their exertions. Even the boy who had now and then to cleanse accidental unsightlinesses from the deck, when he had accomphshed his work, shouldered his mop as if it had been a firelock. The bank of the Seine on our right was low and at first concealed from us beneath a thick mist ; it was also at a considerable distance, the river being near the mouth quite as wide as the Thames at Southend. A white sail glistened here and there through the mist where a sunbeam found its way. As we advanced, the country on that side became more hilly, partly pasture, but chiefly occupied by woods, amongst which neat cottages were now and then observable. At half-past seven we arrived op posite Honfleur, a town verv charmingly situated, as it commands a full view of Havre and of the sea on towards the English coast.

It wears however a melancholy aspect, on account of its old-fashioned, darkly painted wooden houses and churches. Before MONTAGNE DE GRACE. 11 Havre assumed any degree of importance, Honfleur was scarcely inferior to Harfleur. It was the principal emporium for colonial produce. Napoleon visited this place in 1802, with a view to consider whether it might not be converted to some use in the progress of the invasion, which he then medi tated against England. But the accumulation of sand was found so enormous, that the works which he ordered to be executed there were speedily abandoned. To the west of the town is a hillock called the Montagne de Grace ; on the summit is a chapel dedicated to the Virgin, in which the sailors make vows and offerings before setting out on long voyages, and express gratitude on their return.

This hillock is said to contain in its bosom the re mains of several rare and curious fossils. The skeleton of an Egyptian crocodile was found in the sand at its foot some years ago. We approached near enough to Honfleur (some twenty passengers being in waiting there for our steamer) to look into its narrow streets, which appeared to me peculiarly dismal, though the sun was shining full upon it. A few fishing-boats were gliding by it at the time. The Seine suddenly widens immediately above CASTLE OF ORCHER. Honfleur, making a bold sweep beneath a fine semi circle of hills, patches of which are cultivated. They are, however, for the greater part, covered with brushwood and heather, through which the naked cliff often juts out with a picturesque effect. The beach is sandy, edged above high water with a border of lively green.

On our left we obtained a distant view of the castle of Orcher, on a lofty pile of rock — amid the ruins of an ancient fortress, erected to defend the entrance of the liver. A range of chalky hills extends a considerable way along the verge of the Seine on that side. The castle is said to have been the abode of Robert d' Orcher, one of the chevaliers who accompanied Robert " the Devil" into Palestine. The castle of Orcher and its neighbourhood are much frequented by the good citizens of Havre during the fine season. It is celebrated for the magnificent prospect which may be seen from its western terrace, commanding the whole of the em bouchure of the Seine, and an uninterrupted view of the ocean. The rock yields a fountain which is reputed to possess the power of petrifaction. As we passed along through this varying panorama, PRESALE MUTTON. 13 the novelty of the pictures which successively pre sented themselves to the eye on either bank of the noble stream, was not a little heightened by the pleasant faces laughing everywhere around me.

The waters agitated by our paddles sparkled gaily in the sun, while the music of our horns and clarionets, amongst which a little octave flute poured occasionally its brilliant notes, tended to dissipate altogether from the mind every thought that was not in keeping with the magic of the scene. Villages and small towns, with their churches and tapering spires, their old-fashioned high-roofed houses, and white-washed neat cottages, generally fronted with trellises upon which the vine already *■» began to spread its foliage, were now numerous on both banks of the river. The ranges of elevated and undulating hills between which it maintained its course reminded me very much of the Hellespont — exhibiting the same low wooded and heathery appearance, the naked cliff occasionally piercing through the scanty vegetation.

I understood, how ever, that the land immediately behind these hills is remarkable for its richness. Indeed the pasturage and valleys beyond Fiquefleur and Saint Sauveur TANCA.RVILLE. on our right are famous for a species of mutton which rivals our South Down ; it is distinguished in that part of France under the names of Presale or Beuzeville. The territory beyond the hills on our left was formerly celebrated for its vines, some of which, however, only very rarely arrived at maturity. Small steamers appeared to be engaged actively in keeping up the communications between the opposite banks of the Seine, and from town to town along the river from Fiquefleur. Several were also occupied in towing vessels, deeply bur thened, against the current, destined for Rouen. • The river narrowed rapidly as we approached Tancarville, a rather important and highly picturesque village on our left, which stands on a promontory so bold, that it appeared at some distance almost to forbid our further advance by water.

At the foot of the promontory there is a range of pretty cottages to which the artists of Paris usually resort in summer to recover their energies after their labours in the capital, and to pursue their studies in tranquillity. The summit of the chalk rock, which rises to a considerable height, and is precipitous all round, is crowned by QUILLEBEUF. an ancient castle. Immediately below is a chateau in the old French style, with a pair of round towers, the tops of which are slated and sharply pointed. Small boats for fishing were moored near the cot tages. The whole scene looked romantic, and peculiarly favourable to that visionary repose in which painters and poets are so prone to indulge. I was scarcely done with noting the beautiful features of Tancarville on the left, when those of Quillebeuf on the right still more strongly solicited my admiration.

It is the singular charm of this voyaging by steam, that it is perpetually moving one onward from scene to scene, whether one chooses it or not. I own that I should have very willingly lingered an hour or two before Tancar ville, enjoying the contemplation of that old castle, that chateau and its towers, that white cliff shining in the full blaze of the sun, and the dim woods which appeared climbing the sides of the hills in the distance. But the paddles would stop for no such purpose. If a passenger or a bale of goods were to be delivered over or to be taken in, they were the most complaisant pieces of machinery in the world, ceasing their roundabouts in a moment. QUILLEBEUF. But they have no poetry in their souls. They care not one straw for all the combinations of hill and valley, and singing brooks, and pendant foliage, and laughing groups of children, that ever beguiled the enthusiast.

On they go, splashing the waters on either side, and bearing the burthen with which they are charged as rapidly as possible to its final destination. If Tancarville seemed to forbid our progress when we first beheld it, Quillebeuf appeared still more resolved to accomplish that inhospitable purpose. It is situated upon a peninsula, beyond which the river is invisible to the voyager who approaches it, as we did, from the sea. It is only here that those extraordinary serpentine windings terminate, for which the Seine is distinguished through its whole course as far as Paris — windings infinitely more involved and circuitous than those of the Danube. A right line drawn from Paris to Rouen, and from Rouen to Quillebeuf, would pass through no fewer than twenty curves, the devia tions of which from the line increase the distance between the two extremes by at least sixty or seventy miles, if not more, A few canals, judi- THE ROLLO STEAMER. 17 ciously cut through the levels which this part of France presents, would materially benefit the navigation of the river.

The railroad, however, about to be constructed from Paris to Havre, will doubt less put an end to all speculations of that descrip tion. To the navigators approaching Quillebeuf from the other side of the peninsula, this portion of the river is said to present many dangers, on account of the number and variations of its sand-banks. It exhibits rather a handsome and extensive quay, near which there were several vessels of consider able tonnage ranged in due order. It appeared also to have a steam-boat of its own, designated under the name of the celebrated Rollo, who little dreamed in the hours of his many triumphs that his cognomen would ever be given to a machine worth all his conquests put together. How the old robber would be astonished if he could look out of his tomb, and behold this steamer, with his name painted upon it, moving without sail or oar against the rapid current of the river — its cylinder rolling upwards to the sky volumes of dense smoke, and its superfluous vapour rushing out occasionally vol. i. c A FRENCH LADY. with a hissing sound, as if indignant at the uses to which it had been subjected !

More passengers from Quillebeuf. Winding round the peninsula we found the river still wide, but narrowing as we proceeded. Small neat lighthouses appeared disposed at intervals along the bank on our right, indicating the difficulties and perils with which the navigation is here attended. I wished for the pencil of Prout to sketch the ghost of a windmill which stood on a height with its tattered sails and its mill-house crumbling into ruin. While I was endeavouring to retain a collection of that fantastically picturesque object, a very pretty young French woman, attended by her husband (they seemed newly married !) observed me attempting the sketch. She had learned just English enough to be able to understand it in reading, and to be ambitious of using it in conversation. But — innocent little dove ! — she could seldom get beyond a word or two, which she pronounced in the drollest way in the world.

I forgave her for her pretty presumption in asking me whether I had never been in France before ! What a question to a man who, as one of A FRENCH LADY. 19 my critics has said, had already travelled as much as Ulysses — a compliment he thought to an author who had steamed down the Danube and galloped over the Balkans — feats of which the old Ionian, I fancy, had but a slender notion, or his son Tele machus either. c