Recollections of a three years' residence in China; including peregrinations in Spain, Morocco, Egypt, India, Australia, and New Zealand

Front matter

RECOLLECTIONS 01. A THREE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN CHINA. • i .i i O i ___r.*_ia-i, o " The Anchor" of Axoy. lonehm; J?icKaT_J3entl«y,N_v/Bvirl_i$tonStre«-t. RECOLLECTIONS OF A THREE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN CHINA; INCLUDING PEREGRINATIONS IN SPAIN, MOROCCO, EGYPT, INDIA, AUSTRALIA, AND NEW ZEALAND. B. W. TYRONE POWER, D.A.C.G., AUTHOR OF "NEW ZEALAND SKETCHES.*' LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. Publisher in ©rBtnarg to $er UKajcstg. MDCCCLIII. LONDON: Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street. PEEFACE. Readers to be — or not to be — I should barely be justified in allowing your attention to be engaged in the perusal of the following pages, which a specious title or a love of travel may have aroused, without referring to the circumstances under which they were written, and giving some explanation why they are sent " into this world scarce half made up, and that so lamely." They ought, and were intended, to be finished sketches taken from the rough draught of my Journal. Owing, however, to a characteristic feature

Preface

. VI in my penmanship — dlegibility — I have been obliged to depend mainly on my memory, which the din and turmod of savage warfare in the wilds of Kaffraria (whence I now write) has somewhat unsettled, and where no cyclopædias or books of reference can be invited to its support. The Holy Writ, Shakspere, Cervantes, and Milton are the only specimens of type I have seen this many a month, and as the countries I chiefiy treat of barely belong to the world of their days, it will be readily understood that theh assistance has been of a restricted nature. I may add, that my leisure moments have been few and uncertain, and my tent, my only study, is pitched in a scene more wdd and uncouth than any thing I have yet described. Some omissions have been rendered necessary for lack of an atlas to correct or to recall places imperfectly remembered ; and I should hesitate to send forth these lucubrations, were it not for the reflection, that perchance that which has occupied me during many

PREFACE.

. VII a weary hour, may also help to while away pleasingly, and not unprofitably, the leisure time of some of those " lucky dogs " who live at home, yet love to cruise dreamily in their arm-chairs to the far corners of the earth. To such the rough scraps of a traveller's portfolio often have more interest than the finished paintings of a master. W. TYRONE POWER. Buffalo Mouth, British Kaffraria, 31st December, 1851. Fag- CONTENTS.

Chapter I

"A darned hot location" — "Natchy" and Gibraltar — The Black Levanter — Mosquitos and the consequences — El Meneo — Temptations to travel — El Occidente, and its consequences — Sailing craft and steam tugs — The Monopolist : his antecedents and his prospects — A pilgrimage to Mecca by steam 1

Chapter II

Tangier— A wary traveller — Shops and streets — Simi Benoliel — Marriage h la mode de Barbarie — The Hebrew maidens — Bou Salem Ben Ali — Bar el Berode — Moorish soldiery — An equivocal compliment — The Soc — Santons - - - - - - -12

Chapter III

Christian disabilities — The city gates — The Douars — Hamet the Henchman — The Castra station — Riff robbers — The Fondak — A defile in the Atlas — Tetutn — The Riff tribe — A wild country — The clans — Exclusiveness ------- zi X CONTENTS. Page 44 68 77

Chapter IV

The gates of Tetuan— Christian docility — The city — Jewish population — Martyne and its fortress — Moorish gardens — The Caid Hash-hash — Financial experiments— Return to Tangier — The Mosque — The Courier boat — The Straits — A Spanish Leander — Simi's souvenir -------32

Chapter V

" The Rock " — Streets and market place — Various population — Contrabandistas — English travellers — Value of the fortress — Picturesque and romantic views— The neighbouring country — Smugglers and smuggling — Roads _______

Chapter VI

Los Paisanos — The Bolero and Seguidilla — Spanish character — The bull fights — Abajo la lente — La Funcion — Que Toro ! — An effective charge — Sevilla and Montes — Los Bandarilleros — El Matador — " TJn P — de Vaca " — Driving the bulls from the mountains — Good quarters - - - - - - 56

Chapter VII

The Oriental steamers and their passengers — Algiers — The north coast of Africa — Valetta— The' fleet — The priests and churches — Alexandria — Donkey rides in search of the antiques— Atyeh ; its architecture — Oriental discipline — The Nile - -

Chapter VIII

Boulak — Cairo— The pyramids of Gizeh — " Bucksheesh " — The valley of the Nile — A hot day's work — Guinness's " Portare " — Arab steeds — Taste for cheap literature- - A scene in the Desert — Cold and heat — Suez — Aden - CONTENTS. XI Page

Chapter IX

Bombay — Government schools — Education of the native population — Fakir village — Devotees — Superstition and licentiousness — Duty of the rulers of Indiet — Remarkable contrasts — Change of the monsoons — The Straits of Malacca — A shark and turtle fight — Singapore — The Archipelago - - - - - 85

Chapter X

The Lymung Passage — The Bay of Hong Kong — First impressions — Heat and damp — Mortality — " Que diable faisions nous dans cette galere ." — A Chinese Alsatia — Pylangs 'and their tricks— Pirates — Appearance of the Chinamen - - - 95

Chapter XI

Leave Hong Kong — An energetic botanist — Signs of a coming storm — The typhoon — A sailor's aversion to whistling — Namoa — Opium clippers — The opium trade — Intruders in the market — The war junks and the clipper — The fate of the junks - - - - 105

Chapter XII

Fishing population — The coast — Fishing craft — The Bay of Amoy — Junks and commerce — Chinese seamanship Propitiation of the deities — John Chinaman's valour — Profits and risks in junk ventures - - - 119

Chapter XIII

Koo Lung Soo— Appearance of the island — Extraordinary sickness — Death a household God — Causes of unhealthiness— Beauty of the scenery— Economy of soil — The rainy season - - - - - CONTENTS. Page 162 173

Chapter XIV

Subsistence of the people — Chang Choo Foo — Trade of Amoy— The tea trade — The people of Fokien — Nervous terror of the Fanquis - Village misogynists — Sooya — Remarkable instance of truculence — A fine old Chinese gentleman — An unlucky shot — Habits and appearance of the people of Fokien ----- 134

Chapter XV

Bhuddist religion — English tombs — Religion of the province — Confucius — Christian Chinese — Spanish padres — Soldiers of the Cross — Chinese persecution — Padre Zea— A missionary on his travels — Toleration — Protestant missionaries — The pirates and the magician — Chinese superstition — Bhuddism - - - 149

Chapter XVI

Koo Lung Soo — Theatricals — Entertainments to the mandarins — The Hai-Quan — The Tartar admiral — The Taoutai — A burnt tongue — A Chinese entertainment

Chapter XVII

Scenery in the environs of Amoy — Bhuddist shrines The mandarin and the citizen — The farmer — The wives and daughters — Fanqui hideousness — The tombs- Chinese " Truands " — Their king — Organisation- Temple of the Tien- How— The Queen of Heaven Priests and ascetics — Gardens — He-ang-Ho — So- Tching-Kong— Chinese Æsthetics— Bhudda -

Chapter XVIII

The city of Amoy— The anchor — Streets and population —Punch— The drama— Plays and play actors— Music —The suburbs— The Citadel— Chinese bureaucrats— A mandarin's court — Punishments — Private war The Triad Society — Conspiracy - - _ _ \^-j CONTENTS. XIII Pag< 200 239

Chapter XIX

Festival of the New Year — Festival of Ancestors — Kite flying — Chinese characteristics — Gambling and intemperance — Opium, its uses and abuses — Heu-Nat-Se's " Counterblast " — English and Chinese philanthropy -

Chapter XX

Evacuation of Koo Lung Soo — Chinese soldiery — Sufferings of the garrison — A Hindoo suicide — Hong Kong again — Improvements — Trade- — Requirements of the trade — Anecdote of opium speculation — Enghsh flunkeyism — War with China - 209

Chapter XXI

'Cuteness of Chinese diplomatists — Fast boats — The scenery — Fortifications and batteries — -Canton river boats — Fast crabs and scrambling dragons — The flower-boats — River population — Canton — Hog lane and its frequenters — Customs' obstructions — Citadel of Canton ------- 223

Chapter XXII

Turkish opium — AU aback — Cricket under difficulties — Bay of Chin-Choo — Chusan Archipelago — Scenery of Chusan — Soil and farming — Productions — Land and rents — Taxes — Population — Ting-Hae— Excursions — Luxurious sporting— Making oneself at home -

Chapter XXIII

Cantonment — Chinese fortifications — Popularity of the red devils — The Brigadier-General — The climate of Chusan — The French ambassador — Garrison theatricals — The two Figaros — An actor of all work — Figaro in " an awful fix " - - - - - CONTENTS. Page 265 278 291 300 305

Chapter XXIV

Hell's gate— Tching-Hae— The Tsee-Kee— Inland navigation — Ice-houses — Ningpo — The Consulate — The city — The streets and walls — The green tea trade — Chusan, an English settlement— Trade of Ningpo — Mr. Thom, the Consul -------

Chapter XXV

Party tc Tien-tung — The canal boat — Journey in a chair — The monastery — The temples — Punch again — Midnight mass — Bhuddist ceremonials and idolatry — The lakes — A rebellion — The Tartars caught at Ningpo -

Chapter XXVI

Pooto temples and shrines — An order to move — leave Chusan — The Mui river — Foo Chow Foo — Chinese Musselmans — Small-footed women — Trade CHATPER XXVII. Formosa — Cannibalism — Quilon and Chusan — Koo Lung Soo again — The new Consulate — Farewell to China - CHAPTER XXVTII. Wretched accommodation — Straits of Banca — Straits of Lunda — Aujer Point — Love birds — Intercourse with the Indian Archipelago — Piratical fleet — Trade — Government countenance — Straits government — The Southern Cross — Bass's Straits — Fogs and gales — Settlers in the Straits — Aborigines — Port Jackson

CHAPTER XXIX.

The capital of the Southern hemisphere — The wool trade — Captain Macarthur— Minute of the Privy Coun- CONTENTS. XV Page cil — Obstacles to colonial progress — Sheep farming — Transportation — Emigration - 318

CHAPTER XXX.

Wealth of nations — Colonial connections — Value of colonial trade — Australian and American trade compared — Boiling down —Trade with China — Wine growing — Want of labour abroad — Excess at home — Waste and want- ------- 328

CHAPTER XXXI.

Intercolonial trade — Grazing grounds — Financial embarrassments — Peculiar advantages of New Zealand — Homelike aspect — Mountains, plains and rivers — Animal life — The seal hunters — Birds — The Kaka — His eccentricities — Depraved tastes — Forest trees — —The Parasite - - - - - - 338

CHAPTER XXXII.

The natives — The Maorie girls— Internal government of the tribes— Liberty and equality — Maorie historical traditions — Religion — Taipo — The Tamiva — The pranks of Taipo — Witchcraft — The "Tapu" — Sacred character of the chiefs — Refinement, and moral character - - - - - - -35

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Causes of Cannibalism — Effects of famine on character — Decrease of the native population — Representative institutions — Conflicting interests — Native docility — Commerce of the Pacific — Selection of emigrants — Prospects of success — Waiters upon Providence— "It is content that makes a man rich " - - _ 3(54 PEREGRINATIONS, &C. &c.

Chapter I. Gibraltar And Barbary

" A DARNED HOT LOCATION" — "NATCHY" AND GIBRALTAR— THE BLACK LEVANTER — MOSQUITOS AND THE CONSEQUENCES — EL MENEO — TEMPTATIONS TO TRAVEL — EL OCCIDENTE, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES — SAILING CRAFT AND STEAM TUGS — THE MONOPOLIST : HIS ANTECEDENTS AND HIS PROSPECTS— A PIL- GRIMAGE TO MECCA BY STEAM. " Talk of heat, straunger ! guess you were never at Natchy under the hill ? now that is a darned hot location. Bile down all creation and you won't make a hotter, / calkilate ! Why in the dog-day weather you'd be sweated down finer than the small eend of nauthin wittled off." So spake a lank Mississippian to me, one day when I was grumbling at the intensity of the July heat on the " Father of Rivers," but, " I guess," that, if he had been at Gibraltar in the dog days, he might have acknowledged to an atmosphere B THE BLACK LEVANTER. even more oppressive than that of the notorious " Natchy ;" that is, supposing that my acquaintance, who was one of those " yaller flowers of the forest," who describe themselves as brought up " to live in the Government purchase, eat raw bar and buffalo, and drink out of the Mississippi," could be induced to admit that any climate could be hotter, colder, wetter, drier, healthier, finer, or compare in any other respect with that of the country " which beats all creation."

The Gibraltar summer weather is indeed swelter ing, caused, not so much by the sun's rays, as by their reverberation from the bare rock, which becomes almost scorching, and radiates an oven like heat which is quite stifling. This is rendered still more oppressive when an east wind, or " Black Levanter," prevails, blowing against the back of the rock, capping it with dense clouds, and leaving the unfortunate sojourners on the west side quite becalmed and gasping for dear hfe, like fish out of water. Then there are the mosquitos : these little winged, stinging, singing pests are the plague of one's life. Over come by the heat, one scarcely gets languidly seated with a book, when "whiz, whiz," a tiny fellow seats himself on your nose ; you aim a slap at him, that almost blackens your eye, and with the only satisfaction of hearing the execrable little torment go piping M0SQU1T0S. off undamaged.

After a few groans in the spirit aud the flesh, you reseat vourself, and, with a determination to suffer stoically, you get through a couple of pages, and are deeply interested, when — Oh, deuce take it ! you jump up, and slash right and left, like the " Knight of La Mancha " among the pig-skins ; two of the tormentors are phlebotomising your ears, there are three bites on your wrists swollen up like miniature molehills, and half a dozen of the small villains have inserted themselves above your socks and are pasturing away on your ankles with ravenously depraved appetites. This explosion effervesces like the last, and you settle down for the third time, with martyr-like resig nation : scratching only makes the irritation greater, resistance insures you more hurt than the enemy, while, for every one killed, a hundred rise triumphant, and blow theh shrid bugles to the charge ; a sound more dread than the answering horn of the spectre knight to Marmion, or Tancred's warrior blast in Armida's enchanted garden, or any other un pleasant sound that was ever imagined or described.

The greatest human endurance has its limit, patience will not last for ever, and the philosophy of all the Stoics would not enable one to hold out long against the attacks of these multitudinous assailants ; so the book is thrown down, and you rush out of the house as if pursued by fiends, and not imaginary ones. — Ay, B2 TEMPTATIONS TO TRAVEL. Dios mio ! it is fortunate there is some consolation in the midst of one's afflictions. — There are the dear little Spanish girls ! What eyes ! what tournure ! what expression ! the grace of Juno, and the walk ! But who can describe the walk of an Andaluza ? — "Vera incessu patuit Dea " (Pater Eneas had an eye in his head). Venus herself, in the groves of Cythera, walked not with more voluptuous grace than these dark eyed nihas, as they sad along (andar meneando), flirting the fan, coquettishly arranging the mantilla in changing and ever-graceful drapery, nor losing the opportunity to dart an " ojeado," a lightning glance, to a favoured admirer.

By this preface, or prelude, or peroration, I beg to make my readers aware that the scene is laid at Gibraltar ; the time of year, July ; the weather screechingly hot, and that owing to this, and the mosquitos, and sundry causes of ennui, a change of scene and habits was, for a time, highly desirable, not to say necessary. The opposite coast of Barbary, with its rugged mountains, losing themselves dimly and darklv in the distance, seemed to promise more coolness and greater variety at this season than the brown and arid sierras of Andalucia ; so thither I determined to bend my steps, though Africa might naturally be supposed to be the very last place one would select for a pleasant tour in the dog-days. TEMPTATIONS TO TRAVEL. 5 My light baggage was soon packed, leave of absence obtained, and everything ready to sail, when round went the wind to the westward ; and I had nothing left for it but to wait patiently, prophecy every evening that the wind would change before morning, and on the morrow find that I had been slightly out in my calculation.

But who at Gibraltar could complain of a west wind ? It comes fresh and pure from the Atlantic, and quickens the lately-stagnant waters of the bay into brightly-glancing wavelets, waking it into life with fishing-boats in pursuit of mackarel or bonito, and trim yachts dancing in and out among the varied shipping, from the smug coaster to the huge three decked leviathan. Latticed windows, too, and jalousies are thrown open to admit the refreshing breeze, affording glimpses of fair neighbours, or permitting telescopic flirtations with more distant ones. The rattling castanet, soft tinkling lute, and distant sound of song, borne on the wings of the balm-breathing gale, made night most lovely : — now sounding gaily from the terraces and gardens in the upper part of the town, then swelling gradually up in echoing cadences from the feluccas in the bay, or the more remote orange-grove.

At such a time I have often listened and gazed by the hour at the tall mass of rock, looming black and heavy against the star-lit sky, with here and there a twinkling light on its dark SAILING CRAFT surface, and I have wondered where, on its precipitous sides, it harboured all that harmony of sound, of song and mirth, so pleasantly contrasting with its picturesque ruggedness. The mind, imbued with the foreign and romantic aspect of the scene, is startled by the familiar Saxon sounds " Ad's well," from the sentries, taken up from post to post, and accompanied by the tinkling bells on board the men-of-war, or the clash of arms of relieving guards. The " black Levanter " soon returned, and released the fleet of vessels that a week of westerly winds had prevented from getting through the Straits.

There were curiously-rigged Greek misticos and polacres from the Morea and Asia Minor, lumbering corn-laden Russians from Odessa and Taganrog, graceful lateen sailed feluccas with Catalan wine from Barcelona, to be cooked into " claret " at Bordeaux, or with wines from Malaga, to be converted into "Nutty Sherries" at Cadiz ; English fruit-clippers from Zante and Corfu, and smart Yankees from all parts of the inland sea ; but what one didnot see, and which was much wanted there, was a grimy, stout little tug-boat panting and wheezing and hauling the wind-bound vessels through the Straits in spite of wind or current. I cannot comprehend why a speculation, so evidently good in both a public and private point of view, has never been adopted. In the narrow Straits they would be in constant demand, as there are almost always vessels AND STEAM TUGS. detained either at Cadiz or Gibraltar, and some of them with perishable cargoes of fruit, which will not bear delay, or of grain, which by such detention is deteriorated, and may lose its market.

In company with this large fleet I set off in a Sar dinian felucca bound for Tangier and Salee, the scene of Robinson Crusoe's captivity, and which one can scarcely fancy, even now, other than the retreat of long-bearded, large -turbaned corsairs. We careered through the harbour with a fine breeze, which abandoned us off Cabrita Point, where we lay rolling about in the hot sun, for five or six mortal hours. Where was the steam-tug then ? a puff from her steam-pipe would have relieved the anxieties of many a skipper, who found himself drifting back into the bay, or towards the rocky point which has been the destroyer of many a stout ship. I kdled the time in munching muscatel grapes and water-melons, in reading the rascahties of that illustrious picaro "Guzman de Alfarache," and in confabulating with a rich old Moor, who, with his son and secretary, was returning from a business trip " to the Rock."

The son, a remarkably handsome boy, of about twelve years of age, appeared to be got up for a fancy dress bad, in his little turban and showy robes. Not less remarkable was the secretary, a large powerfully-budt fellow, with hard features and immense black beard. In colour, feature, and limb he resem- " THE MONOPOLIST." 8 bled a bronze model of " Roustan," the Moslem Hercules. The old Moor, who, from having the sole right to export cattle from Morocco, was called " the Mono polist," was a curious instance of the sudden rise in the world, which not unfrequently occurs under the capricious and despotic favoritism of Oriental rulers. A few years previously he had been a penndess cattle driver ; now he had amassed a considerable fortune by purchasing cattle in Barbary at about four dollars a-head, and exporting them for the use of the garrison and inhabitants at Gibraltar, at about four times the cost price.

The inevitable consequence will be, a little sooner or later, that he will be shortened by the head, and his property confiscated by the Emperor, a ready and simple expedient for supplying de ficiencies in the Budget, very much in vogue in Eastern Cabinets, though not tolerated by our own political economists. In the meantime the monopolist goes on enjoying himself, undismayed by simdar financial experiments made on his predecessors, and with a simplicity and dignity in his manners, which by no means betray the recent lowliness of his origin. This is one of the happy effects of a good strict despotism. There is but one chief, and all the rest are on a level ; a dead level one may call it; for if, by chance, a head is raised above tbe rest, it is quickly lopped off. A PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA. Governors and governed, pachas and peasants, rajahs and ryots, are on a par as regards education, refinement, and manners, and they change places with won derful facility, so that, at first, one almost fancies Nature has given a special gift to Oriental barbers, fishermen, and butchers, to fill high places with propriety.

Towards evening the wind freshened, and we scudded rapidly through the Straits, till close to the celebrated old town of Tarifa, when we tacked across from the coast of Spain to the Barbary shore, and in a couple of hours had weathered Cape Malabat, and dropped our anchor in the Bay of Tangiers. The gates of the city close at sunset ; so it being too late to land when we arrived, we were transferred to a fine Genoese barque, which was waiting in the bay to receive a cargo of three hundred "hadjis," or pilgrims, bound for Alexandria, on their way to Mecca. The precepts of the Mahometan religion require that every Moslem should, once at least in his life, make the pilgrimage either in person or by proxy to the holy city, to taste ofthe waters of Zem-Zem, kiss the Caaba, and count his beads in the consecrated mosque.

Some make the pilgrimage several times, actuated either by religious zeal or mercantile enter prise, for Mecca, during the stay of the pilgrims, is one of the largest fahs in the world. b3 A PILGRIMAGE TO The captain, who had had several similar cargoes in previous years, told me that if two-thirds of those who embarked at Tangiers returned to it again from Mecca, it would be more than the usual average. The rest are victims of disease, privation, and the numerous accidents and dangers to which they are exposed in so long and so perilous a journey. Still how infinitely greater must have been the perils of their pilgrimage before ships and steamers lent their aid to assist the great body of the embryo hadjis in reaching their destination ! When the whole of Northern Africa had to be toiled through — when months were spent in accomplishing that portion of the journey which is now easdy traversed in a few days by sea.

These pdgrimages, like the crusades in Europe, tended to keep ahve a military spirit among the Moslems, and which will now be considerably abated by the decreased risks, and the absence of any neces sity for personal prowess in the pdgrim. A railroad from Cairo to Suez, and from thence to Mecca, or steamers to Djidda, would probably be a profitable investment for money, and would at any rate save the pilgrims from all risk of Bedouins, and rob their enterprise of all its military character. To the orthodox Oriental potentates, the Pashas of one or many tails, and other influential true believers, I MECCA BY STEAM. recommend this undertaking as a propitiatory offering likely to be highly palatable to " the Prophet," more especiady if proper attention be paid to the comforts of the hadjis by the issue of return tickets to and from Mecca at reduced prices, &c. TANGIER.

Chapter II. Tangier

— A WARY TRAVELLER — SHOPS AND STREETS — SIMI BENOLIEL— MARRIAGE A LA MODE DE BARBARIE— THE HEBREW MAIDENS— BOU SALEM BEN ALI — BAR EL BERODE— MOORISH SOLDIERY— AN EQUIVOCAL COMPLIMENT— THE SOC— SANTONS. Next morning I was up by daylight, and was very much pleased with the first view of Tangier and its neighbouring hills, on the slope of which it is pic turesquely situated, flanked by two castles, and sur rounded by high embattled wads. Numbers of trees springing up from the courts of the houses have a lively and pleasant effect, while high above all rises the graceful minaret of the principal mosque. I left my luggage under charge of the " capitan del puerto " till the " administrador " could pass it, and then, under guidance of a yellow-slippered, bare legged Moor, I took my way to the "Fonda" of Solomon Benoliel, where, for a consideration, hospitality is dispensed to Christian travellers.

The old rogue was delighted to welcome me to Bar bary, and after introducing me to his pretty wife and prettier daughter, conducted me to a room on the ter- A WARY TRAVELLER. 13 race of the house. This being an elevated and com manding situation I immediately began to take advantage of it, to ascertain what objects of curiosity the neighbouring houses and terraces might present, but, to the infinite dismay of my host, who explained that it was contrary to etiquette for men to look over the terrace walls, for fear their profane glances should light on any of the women unveiled. I promised to behave with great circumspection, but with the full intention of not losing a chance of seeing the gazelle eyed daughters of Barbary ; in fact, with the foresight of an experienced traveller, I had provided myself with an excellent telescope for the very purpose of in troducing myself a la distance, into private society, and, unseen myself, to be a spectator of all that was going on within half a mile.

The town is not very extensive, and one is soon satisfied with a survey of most of its narrow streets and windowless houses, the only opening outside being a door about four feet high, making the street resemble a long row of tombs, square, solid, and dismal. The principal street is tolerably broad and paved ; it contains ad the shops, the fountains, mosques, and most of the consuls' mansions. The shops, not unlike large pigeon-holes, are mere boxes from four to six feet square, let into the outside wall of the houses and unconnected with the interiors. They are fitted up with shelves, on which are placed SHOPS AND STREETS. the goods within reacli of the cross-legged merchant, as he sits smoking on his carpet, or gossiping with his customers, who stand in the street. When the mer chant wishes to exhibit great courtesy and attention, the customer is permitted to sit on the ledge of the. shop.

In this way the ladies in the Arabian Nights were received, and by turning their backs to the street, they might converse, or even raise theh veils without any risk of being perceived by any one but the favoured merchant. The women, by the way, look like ghosts as they waddle about, swathed from head to foot in white drapery, with no portion of their persons visible but one eye. It is sometimes quite startling to come suddenly on one of these one-eyed masses of drapery, waddling and shuffling along, with a peculiar gait that rather suggests the idea of an animated clothes-bag than of the movements which should be all majesty and grace. After perambulating the town I returned to breakfast at Benoliel's, where I remained during my stay at Tangiers. This, however, is no impeachment of the hospitality of the place, for I had numerous invita tions from both Jew and Gentile ; and if I did return to Benoliel's establishment, redolent of oil and garlic, it was from my own proper choice.