Journal of Travels in the United States of North America and Lower Canada performed in the year 1817, etc

Front matter

l.'is.l.-ii AiMWi../ .Hilvi.y/mtltstfuz .v fiit.T.V, .1'iHi'is JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN THE Winim states? OF NORTH AMERICA, ASD IN LOWER CANADA, PERFORMED IN THE YEAR 1817; CONTAINING PARTICULARS RELATING TO THE PRICES OF LANs? AND PROVISIONS, REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY AND PEOPLE, INTERESTING ANECDOTES, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE Commerce, Crabe, ano \&tt$tnt §>tatc OF WASHINGTON, NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, BOSTON, BALTIMORE, ALBANY, CINCINNATI, PITTSBURG, LEXINGTON, QUEBEC, MONTREAL, &c. TO WHICH AKE ADDED, A Description of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, and a Variety of ether useful Information. , WITH A NEW COLOURED MAP, DELINEATING ALL THE STATES AND TERRITORIES. BY JOHN PALMER. Ilonoan: PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1818. Printed by R. and R. Oilbtrt, St. Johrii Squart, ClerktnwtU.

Preface

. I am aware, that numerous writers have preceded me in a description of the United States, some of whom have been professed authors; but I am not acquainted with any work that gives a full account of any part of them as they now exist. " Morse's Gazet teer," '* Winterbotham's America," and " Brissot on the United States," although va luable works, convey but a faint, and often, incorrect account of the present situation of America. Most of the travels I have seen, are full of prejudice and invective against America and Americans, which, in some instances, the authors could scarely feel ; a2

PREFACE.

. IV and who, perhaps, inserted them from no worse motive, than to make their publications palatable to their readers. This is particularly the case in " Janson," " Par kinson," and " Ashe." Some travels in the United States, however, are free from prejudice, such as " Lambert's," " Mi chaux's," and"Wansey's;" "Bradbury's" also, of more recent date, is a valuable work. But if the works published a few years ago, do give correct and valuable informa tion of what the United States were then> and I readily, admit some do ; the rapid changes that have occurred in the sudden aud prosperous rise of literally hundreds of villages, towns, and cities, the formation of new districts, territorial governments, and independent States, with the consequent improvement and changes in society, all bear me out in the propriety of publishing PREFACE* V the present work.

Besides, from the extraordinary pressure of the times, many per sons are turning their attention to the New World*. Information to these, has been my first study. In the Journal, I have copied, almost verbatim, from my note book ; which will, in some measure, account for the little me thod observed in the arrangement : indeed, the whole book is but a collection of observations, made at the moment* of recollec tions, and extracts. The frequent mention of the quality of the soil, appearance of the landscape, prices of farms and provisions, costs of travelling, &c. with the notes and anecdotes which are introduced, will, I conceive, give the reader a more correct idea Of the country and state of society, than more diffused notices, or the most elaborate periods of eloquence. PREFACE* VI As the intention of this publication, is, principally to supply an account of the most interesting parts of the United States, I have compressed my Journals so as to be able to give descriptions of the States of Ohio and Indiana, and the territories of Illinois and Missouri.

They are extracted from the " Western Gazetteer," a recent publication by S. R. Brown, of Auburn, New York. He travelled over much of that country himself. I have also made free with his useful book in describ ing Cincinnati, and Lexington, and in se veral other instances. The description of Philadelphia, is partly from " Mease's Pic ture of Philadelphia;" and that of New York is much of it copied from " Blount's Stranger's Guide to the City of New York," and " Spafford's Gazetteer of the State of New York." I have also received some assistance from the American edition of

PREFACE.

. VII " Morse's Gazetteer." For the extracts I have taken the liberty of making from American authors, I can only request their indulgence ; the design of the work would have been incomplete without them. In the Miscellany, at the end of the work, will be found some useful Tables and in formation. To conclude, I may have mentioned facts unpleasant to some ; but I can safely affirm, I am not conscious of baying de-. viated in the following pages from the real state of things ; and, as Mr. Bradbury observes, in the Preface to his Travels, << I can see no reason why I should not speak the truth." JOHN PALMER. Lynn, July _th, 1818, A JOURNAL. &c.

Chapter I

Leave home — voyage — Mr. Cobbett— New York — journey to Philadelphia — excursions to the falls of Schuylkill, Germantown, Bustletown, and Wilmington. ON the 7th of March, 1817, I left Lynn, in Norfolk, and in company with Mr. W. Reynolds, of Walsoken, and Mr. John Clemenson, of Up well, proceeded to Liverpool, where we arrived safely on the 10th, and there joined several friends from Norfolk and Lincolnshire, who were going out to settle in the United States. Our first care was to enquire for a good ship. We were recommended to the Importer, Captain Ogden, bound to New York ; finding her a vessel with excellent accommodations, we engaged for our passage in the steerage, paying 14/. each ; to be found with beef, biscuit, soup, flour once a week, cooking and water. B Voyage— Mr. Cobbett. Having passed the necessary examination at the custom house, and laid in our tea, sugar, and other stores, on the 28th of March we got under weigh, mustering near forty passengers, cabin and steerage, having proceeded to Black rock, four miles below Liverpool, we came to anchor.

At 11 P. M. the celebrated political writer, Mr. William Cobbett, and his two sons, John and William, came on board as passengers ; it was a very boisterous night, but Mr. Cobbett knowing we were to sail early in the morning, and fearing pursuit under the Suspension Act, risked his life, to avoid incarceration. Next morning, after being examined by the officers, and boarded by a custom-house boat, whilst under weigh, and again examined, we proceeded to sea, and were detained a week in the Irish channel, buffeted by contrary winds. As usual, on a first voyage, most of the passengers were sick for a few days, but this soon wore oft', and we made the beef and biscuit casks pay for our temporary abstinence. On the 5th of April we cleared the coast of Ire land, and had a fine fair breeze for sixteen days, which brought us on the verge of the banksof New foundland, when we began to experience head winds and bad. weather, being almost continually laying to.

We carried away several sails, and were driven into the stream which sets out from New York. 3 the bay of Mexico, where we experienced a dreadful storm of thunder and lightning, during a gale of wind. The electric fluid struck the main mast twice in an interval of a few minutes, shivered it from top to bottom, and struck down several men, killing one, most of the passengers below felt the shock in various parts of their bodies, the lightning flying from conductor to conductor, snapping and flashing like musketry. The gust was soon past, but we experienced squalls and dead calms, until we made the land on May-day. On the 4th of May, the highlands of Navesink in sight, (called by the seamen, from the distance at which they may be seen, Never sink) ; in the evening Sandy Hook light-house in sight ; boarded by a pilot at 1 1 P. M. and brought to anchor, early in the morning, within the Hook. 5tk of May.

Weighed anchor early this morning, and stood in for New York. Passed the narrows, guarded by two forts, where the bay is about 1000 yards wide, and again came to anchor at the quarantine ground ; the shipping and spires of New York, about eight miles oft", plainly to be discerned. After a slight examina tion by the quarantine doctor, being all healthy, we were permitted to proceed. A trifling sum is charged each passenger, towards the support <jf the quarantine, (I forget what, but it did not b2 Mr. Cobbett. amount to a dollar). As we approached the city, the bay spread out seven or eight miles wide, delightfully variegated with islands, (on all of which there are forts) many neat white farm-houses, and several villages. The fields were covered with the rich verdure of nature, the peach and apple were in full bloom, whilst the white canvas of the sailing vessels, the smoky volumes of the steam boats, the immense forests of masts, and the many spires of the first commercial city of the New- World, added to the scene, coming off a tem pestuous ocean, every thing appeared to wear the face of enchantment.

Towards evening we arrived, and were safely moored at Coffee House Slip, and with joyful sensations prepared to land. As some of my readers may wish to hear of Mr. Cobbett, and how he conducted himself on board, I shall devote a page to that subject. I did not see Mr. Cobbett on his first coming on board, till next morning, when we were ex amined by the custom house officer. There were several gentlemen belonging to Liverpool besides the passengers all on deck, and from the habit we are sometimes in of figuring a man in our minds, whom we have never seen, I was quite lost. I had fancied him a thin pale man ; he was the last man in the ship I should have Mr. Cobbett. 5 supposed to be Mr. Cobbett, the great writer. He is tall, athletic, and florid, with all the appear ance of an English yeoman.

During the voyage, he unfortunately was at considerable variance with the captain, originating in a quarrel about the cabin provisions. The ducks and hens were all old ; and if I had met with them in the States, I must confess, I should have been tempted to suppose, they were brought over by some of the first settlers ! To the rest on board (exceptingone or two violent aristocratics in the cabin) his manners were free and communicative. He would be as often in the steerage as in the cabin, and smoke his pipe and converse on various subjects with considerable good humour. His language, like his Re gisters, is plain and nervous, often dashed, when warm, or on politics, with the vile habit of swear ing. Of his son John I can say but Httle, never having had any conversation with him ; William is conversable and pleasant.

It was dark when we landed ; Mr. Liester, Mr. Reynolds, and myself, called on Mr. Hodgkinson, an Englishman, corner of Nassau and Fulton Streets; Mr. L. had business with him. We spent a very agreeable evening ; and I take this opportunity of returning him my acknowledge ments for the handsome manner in which I, a New York. 6 perfect stranger, was entertained the first evening I spent in America. 6th of May. Several of us took lodgings at Greenwich, a pleasant and populous suburb of New York. Price of board and lodging, four dollars, or eighteen shillings sterling, per week. At the best taverns and boarding-houses in the city, you cannot be boarded and lodged under two dollars per day. The things that most struck me on my first walks in the city, were the wooden houses, the smallness, but neatness, of the churches, the coloured people, the custom of smoking segars in the streets, (even followed by some of the children,) and the number and nuisance of the pigs permitted to be at large * ; as to the rest, it is much like a large English town, but I shall at present defer a particular description, and pro ceed to otfier subjects. 13th May.

To-day, in company with Mr. Clemenson, who proposed to accompany me to the westward, I engaged a passage for Philadel- * In the city of New York, on a moderate calculation, several thousand pigs are suffered to roam about the streets, to the disgrace of the corporation and danger of passengers. A law was passed, prohibiting their being at large aster January, 1818, but before it went into operation, it was repealed. Journey to Philadelphia. 7 phia ; fare throughout sive dollars. The line pro ceeding by Amboy, we sailed down the bay in a small packet, and arrived, at four in the afternoon, at Perth Amboy, an incorporated city of New Jersey, thirty miles from New York ; the com pact part does not contain one hundred houses j it has au excellent harbour, and the legislature of New Jersey expected it would rise to consider able importance, which will never be the case ; it is too near and between the cities of New York and Philadelphia, without any of their ad vantages, except the harbour.

On landing we found two stages waiting to convey us forward. We proceeded through a barren uninteresting country, to a stage-house about twenty miles on the road, where we slept, or rather staid, for the night. Several fresh im ported low characters, who came in one of the stages, were carrying on a little, as they called it, keeping us and the harassed innkeeper and his family, who were friends, in tribulation all night. Early next morning, we proceeded on our journey, over an indifferent, and, in some parts, bad road, but a much better country, than we passed yesterday, several small villages, houses mostly of wood, many good farms and orchards. At one o'clock, we reached Bordentown, New Jersey, a handsome village of one wide street, Philadelphia. planted with trees on each side ; it is situate on a high bank of the Delaware, twenty-four miles from Philadelphia, and commands an exquisite view of the windings of the Delaware, part of Pennsylvania, the elegant seat of Joseph Buona parte on the Jersey side, &c. After dinner, we proceeded on board the steam-boat Etna, part or whole owned by the above-named ex-king.

Having never been in a steam-boat, I was much pleased with her size, beauty, convenience, and swiftness, going six miles an hour against the tide. In descending the river, which is from half a mile to a mile wide, we staid a few minutes to land and receive passengers, at Bristol, on the Pennsylvania, and the city of Burlington, on the Jersey side, both small, but neat and well-built places. There are many pretty country seats on the banks of the river. At six in the. afternoon, arrived at Market-street Wharf, Philadelphia. As soon as the steam-boat reached the wharf, we were boarded by a number of black ticket-porters, who possess a considerable share of impudence, and if not bargained with, will try to impose. I went to board at Mr. Louther Taylor's boarding-house, 264, Market Street, between Seventh and Eighth Street.

Price of board and lodging, five dollars per week ; very good accommodation. 19th May. Having penetrated this beautiful Excursion to the Falls of Schuylkill. 9 city in most directions, making* observations which will be given in a future chapter, several of us Englishmen made a party to proceed in a stage on a visit to the Palls of Schuylkill, (a few miles above Philadelphia^ and the surrounding country ; the land is beautifully undulated in this direction, and the scenery of the Falls is picturesque ; the Falls themselves are no curiosity, except perhaps to the inhabitants of the city. The greatest curiosity is a wire foot-bridge, about a foot and a half wide, suspended from the trees, and stretch ing across the rocky bed of the river two hundred feet, fi speak from memory;) when crossed, it vibrates amazingly.

It being pleasant weather, we decided to walk home on the opposite side of the Schuylkill. In our walk, we saw several boys fishing; they seemed to have tolerable sport. A fisherman whom we accosted proved to be an Englishman ; he was satisfied with his situation, and said he could earn at his profession, from fifteen to twenty dollars per month. The banks of the river has numerous pleasant cottages and seats on its margin. Woodlands, the seat of Mr. Hamilton, is particularly elegant. We en tered the precincts of the city over the best single arched bridge I have ever seen ; a little below is the permanent bridge, at the end of Market Street ; these two are the handsomest wooden bridges in the United States. Excursion to Germantown. 10 2oth May, Sunday. This morning, Mr. Cle menson and myself, took our seats in a German town stage, on an excursion into the country ; we had a stage full of people, and the conversation was on religious topics.

I was much amused by the observations of a middle-nged genteel looking lady, and should have thought her de ranged, if I had not noticed several of the pas sengers paid her opinions great attention. She talked of the Bible Societies ; and, amongst other things, said, that " as the Gospel had now found its way to all the whole world, it ought to convince all, especially Deists and Mahomets, of its divine origin." Commenting on the sins of the world, she observed " if it was not for the praying people," (meaning probably her sect,) " she had no doubt the wicked city of Philadel phia would be consumed by fire, or something worse, from heaven !" In the midst of her discourse, she suddenly exclaimed, on seeing a style leading into a field, " Ah ! that style always reminds me of poor Bunyan's style !"

Coming from England, where such fanatical conversation in a stage-coach, is rare, and finding several assisted and helped her out with her remarks, I took out a note-book, and began to take the conversation down ; I soon found I was sus pected, and an almost dead silence ensued. The road is good and thickly inhabited. We Excursion to Germantown. 11 observed several curious tavern signs in Phila delphia ; aud on the road side, amongst others, Noah's ark, a variety of apostles, Bunyan's pil grim, a cock on a lion's back, crowing, with the word Liberty issuing from his beak, naval en gagements, in which the British ships are in a desperate situation, &c. ; the most common signs are eagles, heads of public characters, Indian kings, &c. The stage-coach in which we travelled, was of the kind generally used in America.

They are a sort of light waggon on springs, having leather curtains, that roll up ; the roof is supported with eight pillars, they hold about fourteen passengers, all inside, and are well adapted to this country, the driver sits on the front seat very little elevated above the passengers. Germantown is seven miles from Philadelphia, and consists of one long street of stone houses, the inhabitants are almost all German descendants, it is a corporate town, and contains near 5000 inhabitants; their religion German-cal vinist, Lutheran, Friends, Methodists, and an ex ordinary sect called Mennonists. Morse gives the following account of them : " The principal congregation of the Mennonists, and the mother of that sect in America, is at Germantown. They derive their name from Menno Simon, a learned man of Wismar in Germany, one of the re- Excursion to Germantown. 12 formers, born in 1505.

Some of his followers came into Pensyl vania from New York in 1692. There are about 4000 of them in the state. They do not like the Tunkers (another extraor dinary sect) believe in general salvation, yet, like them, they will neither sight, swear, bear any civil office, go to law, or take interest for money. They use great plainness in their dress, and prac tice many of the rites of the primitive Church." Germantown is famous for an obstinate attack made on the British, on the 4th of Oct. 1777, by the Americans under Washington. A large house garrisoned by the British, near which much slaughter was made, remains in the same state it was left by the British. Our landlady was a young woman at the time, and assisted to dress the wounds of the Americans after the battle, on which she descanted with a considerable display of feeling and patriotism.

We left Germantown on foot ; the evening was fine ; quantities of a beautiful insect called fire-fly were playing about, they are half an inch in length, aud send forth a brilliant light from under their wings. As the shades of evening in creased, the grass and air seemed on fire with their numbers; they are perfectly harmless. For the first time, I saw and heard a bull frojr they are something larger than the largest frog in England, and bellow as loud as a bull ! 26th May, Monday. In the afternoon we proceeded on foot to visit Mr. Long, a gentleman lately from England, who lives at Bustletown, ten miles to the north of Philadelphia. The roads all round Philadelphia are laid out wide, with post and rail, no ditches or quick hedges, both of which are uncommon in America. There are many good houses and country-seats on both sides of the road.

We stayed at Frankfort, a neat village five miles from Philadelphia. Our supper consisted (and supper and breakfast boasts of a similar mixture osgood things in all parts of the Union) of beefsteaks, fried bacon, peach preserves, short cakes, bread and butter, &c. with coffee and tea, for which, a bed and two glasses of toddy, we paid seventy-five cents, each *. Whilst here, we were witness of the republican simpli city, so common in the States; Maj orgeneral Isaac Worrell, a soldier of the Revolution, living in the vicinity, called at the tavern for a glass, he was accosted by his former title by several farmers and tradesmen, assembled under the tavern portico, and conversed with them quite at his ease. He wears a cocked hat, and was dressed in a coat of the cut of 1776, drives his own waggon, and is quite a Cincinnatus.

The universal custom in America is, when once a man has been a general, captain, or judge, &c. * A cent is the hundredth part of a dollar he is always addressed by his title, the judge, instead of Mr. is sometimes called squire ; this, with the title of his excellency, given to the Pre sident during office, and honourable, &c. applied to certain state officers, is the utmost stretch titles have reached in this country. 21th May, Tuesday. After a pleasant walk we arrived at Mr. Long's house, having known him in England, he received us with great plea sure, he works a merchant and grist water-mill, of extensive powers, and having a large family, several sons men, will be enabled to manage it without much additional help. In the afternoon two of his sons accompanied us in a walk to view the neighbourhood, we passed through the town which is small, in the course of our walk visiting the house in which Mr. Cobbett formerly lived, and wrote in favour of European politics, and against those of the United States, when lo use his own observation he knew no better.

The country is gently undulated, soil, clay mix ed with sand ; the farm-houses are almost all of stone, and very substantial, with good barns and barracks to preserve their grain ; the barracks have a moveable roof, supported on posts, in which holes are bored and the roof raised and lowered at pleasure. We called at several houses, every thing, though homely, indicated ease and plenty The chairs and tables were plainly made, the windows, which are numerous, all sashes (I never saw a casement in the United States) the best room displayed a list carpet of home manufacture ; (very few have figured carpets) the fire places were all on the hearth, with hand irons to support the wood ; in the best room some have an iron fire-place (on the hearth plan) called a Franklin ; these look very neat, and will much sooner heat a room than the open fire-place.

We visited a natural curiosity, the Rock of Ages, about a mile and a half from Bustletown ; it is near 200 feet high, very rugged, and full of chasms, overhanging a small creek, called Pena peck. It is a tradition, that one of the principal Revolutionists of 1649, hid himself here from the fury of Charles II. which without very strict search on the immediate spot, might very easily be effected. Here is a mineral spring, of which we drank, grateful to the palate, slightly impreg nated with sulphur, magnesia, and iron. Whilst with Mr. Long, he gave me the following information : Farms in the neighbourhood seldom exceed £00 acres ; price of the best farms, with a good stone house and offices, 100 to 120 dollars per acre ; rent from four to eight dollars per acre. They have been dearer, but so many farmers are proceeding to the western states, that the price is reduced.

The grain crops, on account of their rapid growth, are seldom choaked with weeds It is common to get a crop of buckwheat after other grain. The manure used is dung, plaister, or lime. But little machinery is used, most of the work being done by manual labour; the price of a labourer from 12 to 20 dollars per month, and his board. Fencing with post and rail, four feet high, cost one dollar for twelve running feet. Virginia, or zigzag fence, which is the roughest sort, being split rails laid on each other, fastened by cross pieces, and continued almost in the form of a W, the angles not so acute ; thirty -five cents for nearly the same length. Horses are middlesized, but hardy ; any thing of a team of four, costs 400 dollars. For horse feed, some of the farmers use rye, coarse ground, mixed with cut straw ; on this they say the horses do well ; a handful of salt is given them once or twice a week, of which they are extravagantly fond ; it is considered of great use.

Instead of the bloody barbarian practice of nicking a grown horse, they have a practice (introduced by Mr. Sheerer, of Bustletown) of taking a foal immediately on its being cast, and bending the tail flat to its back, with a knife, the operator cuts off the su perfluous part; without any other nicking, when grown, it carries the tail as if nicked with the greatest art. Sheep are not kept but in small flocks ; there Excursion lo Wilmington. 17 are no large flocks with regular bred shepherds, as in England or Spain. Pigs are plenty, and of a pretty good sort, worth ten or eleven dollars per cwt. Raising poultry for the city market is a universal p'ractice. Taxes of all sorts on farms in Philadelphia county "not more than one penny in the pound sterling. Produce and price of corn and grain * Produce to the Aae.

Price. - Dollars Wheat 16 to 30 bushels 2 0 per bushel. Barley not much grown, could not get the produce. Oats . . SO to 40 bushels 0 SO per bushel. Rye . . 20 — 30 1 25 Corn- -30 — 40 .'...... .1 0 Clover If — 2 ton 25 to 30 dollars per ton. Wheat is sold by the bushel, which is considered to weigh 601bs. ; if it weighs hut 571bs. it is held to be unmarketable, and a buyer may call off. The farmer has no regular corn exchange to go to, he must carry it in bulk to market, or sell it to a neighbouring merchant or miller, which be can always readily do at market price. 28th May, Wednesday. At one in the after noon, embarked in the steam boat, Superior, in company with Mr. Long, sen. and Mr. Cle menson, intending to proceed to Wilmington in * Com always means maize. Wheat, oats, &c. are called grain by way of distinction. c the state of Delaware.

The boat was full of passengers for Baltimore. I observed an amazing quantity of trunks and portmanteaus are used by American travellers, and even people going a short visit ; I think we had two waggon load on board, and not a box amongst them. The peo ple on board appeared almost invariably genteel in their dress and manners ; the reason for this is, I conceive, that equality which reigns amongst Americans, no distinction being made, all having the same cabin to sit in, and the same table to dine at ; the passenger who aspires to be thought respectable, knowing the rule, spruces himself up accordingly. The ladies have a cabin to which they can retire at pleasure. No smoking is allowed between decks. The Religious Tract Society of Philadelphia have a collection of pamphlets on board, to which all passengers have access.

Some of these tracts are excellent, especially those on the ruinous effects of idleness, drunkenness, and gambling; but others, on the conversion of little children, and hardened sin ners, borrowed chiefly from London copies, seem to be intended for very weak minds, and what is essential to true religion ; I thought some of them wanted a portion of both truth and reason. On both sides of the river the shore is low ; on the Jersey side almost one continued forest; the Pennsylvania side is richland and well farmed. Seven miles below Philadelphia we passed Red Bank and Fort Miflin, places of historical note for the defence made during the Revolution against the British forces. As we approached Wilmington, it appeared to advantage on a considerable eminence long before we reached it. In passing up Christiana Creek, the ruins of a church built by the first Swedish settlers attracted our attention.