A Journey to Rome and Naples ... in 1817 giving an account of the present state of society in Italy; and containing observations on the fine arts

Front matter

Just Published, in One Volume, \1s. octavo, A JOURNEY TO IB <D m 1 & SJ ID Sf & 5? IL IU Sa WITH ©fcserbatt'ons on tfje JFitu &rts. By HENRY SASS. " This is a most delightful volume: the Author is a man of taste, ami, what is better, a man of principle and feeling. We should have thought that every topic to be discussed iu a journey through France and Italy had been exhausted; but we have perused Mr. Sass's agreeable book with as much satisfaction as we did KeatesN Account of Pelew, or Hall's Account of Loo Choo. His well-stored mind and powers of painting give au air of novelty and interest to every subject he touches." — Monthly M ag. for Jolt. *' The Author presents himself to us iu a very favourable light, throughout the whole of his volume. The account of Mr. Sass's Journey offers much to excite our commendation, and very little matter for blame He does not profess to give profound disquisitions ou politics or science; but he is, for the most part, a fair and candid relater: and the information which he commu nicates cannot fail to assist very materially the ordinary travellers who visit Italy.

He writes clearly, unaffectedly, and with sufficient elegance. He is highly to be praised for the honest warmth of his sentiments upon subjects which ought to rouse every Englishman's feelings of honour and of natioual indignation. If, upon one or two points, we are forced to differ from him, we do so with respect for his disinterested boldness of expression upon unpo pular topics; and the information which he conveys upon some other points of this nature, is at once curious and important." — Edinburgh Rev. No. 60. ** Mr Sass's Travels to Rome and Naples are detailed in a lively familiar narrative, and might prove a very useful acquisition to travellers; objects of interest are pointed out, and useful hints given to avoid danger, trouble, and imposition. Mr. S describes nature with the enthusiasm of an artist, and has been attentive to the minutest national dissetences between the countries he visited.

We have not found ourselves fatigued with too much labourious research, but anxiously followed the author through the amusing pages of bis publication with unwearied alacrity and increasing interest. Romantic and contemplative, our author loses no opportunity of encouraging the sentiments, that such fairy scenes as he was witness of, would naturally engender. Tbe book is full of spirited observation; the materials rich and varied." — Literary Jourkal, Nos. 19 and 20. " The Author of this agreeable book has afforded us considerable entertainment; and we doubt not but that his remarks maybe read by future tra vellers with equal pleasure and advantage. Mr. Sass evidently contemplates interesting objects with the accurate eye which belongs almost exclusively to the artist; — and his casual observations, and deliberate reflections are equally characterized by that liberality aud acuteness which bespeaks a cultivated and candid mind." — Gbntlebian's Mag. for August. %* Tobehad of tin- \uilnu, No. 50, Gn-nt Uu-t>H-sti«t, Blooinslmn squaro.

Preface

. In offering the following work to the public, I do it with no small degree of diffidence ; more particularly as I touch on subjects, and go over ground, which have before been so ably treated. But, as no publication has lately appeared respecting Italy, I was anxious to communicate what had passed within my own knowledge, as far as regards the present state of society in that country ; and to admonish the future traveller, (who will often find himself in the situation of Damocles, with a sword suspended over his head by a single hair,) of what he has to expect under the existing governments. That the general course of the narrative might not be interrupted, I have prefixed my observations on the Fine Arts, with VI

PREFACE.

. the ambitious desire of contributing my mite towards the improvement of the national taste. Having thus briefly stated the objects of the publication, and being satisfied that virtue will not be offended nor vice pro moted by the perusal of my book, I dis miss it to its fate with tranquillity. CONTENTS. PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE FINE ARTS. Inattention of writers to the subject... The cultivation of the Fine Arts necessary to form a great nation... Their excellence springs from superiority of intellect... Report on the Elgin marbles. ..The greatest empires indebted to the Arts for their glory. ..State of the Arts arises from the artist's exertions. ..Genius depressed... The artist's qualifications. ..An artist's reflections... Artists, public benefactors. ..The ladies of the present day indebted to them...

Happiness in the study of the Fine Arts... The Greeks. ..Their feelings on the subject. ..Object of the imitative arts... Analogy that exists... Extremes of the Arts and Sciences... Advantages of the Fine Arts over the sister arts, poetry, and the dramatic... Instanced in the cartoons of Raffaelle and Greek sculpture... Virgil and Homer. ..Kean and Kemble... General knowledge arising from a study of the Fine Arts... Historical anecdotes... Human happiness increased by a love of painting... The way to live, instead of existing. ..On what excellence in the Fine Arts depends. ..Cause of Raffaelle's superiority... Contrasted with the Venetian school... Origin of the bad subjects of pictures painted by the old masters... Paul Veronese...British institution. ..Painting school in the Royal Academy.., Expression and character...

Versatility CONTENTS. of talent injurious.. .English school of painting contrasted with those of the French and Italian... Battle of Auster litz, by Gerard...The public, the only real patrons of art ...The artist and amateur...The elevation of the Fine Arts, the object of all enlightened minds. ..The Elgin marbles... Their beauty and effect on national taste... The British fair. ..Government congratulated... Public esta blishments... The Royal Academy. ..Its origin. ..Its excellence, to whom indebted... The British gallery... Cause of its decline. ..Bad system of instruction in private tuition... The cause. ..Superiority of the English school. ..Its eminent professors...England possesses sufficient for its ad vancement. Page xxvii to Iv.

Introduction

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National prejudice against the French. ..Ignorance gives birth to it... Propensity to finding fault in English visitors ...Its origin. ..Their false representations of the state of things... English profusion. ..Cheapness of living. ..Charges at a French hotel... Causes of the dissatisfaction of some ofthe English in France. ..Anecdote. ..Comparison of the French and Italians... The state ofthe two countries contrasted. ..Modes of travelling... Safety in France. ..Danger in Italy. ..Present anarchy of Italy, compared with Turkey... Cautions in the choice of companions... Qualifications necessary. ..Relations of travellers on that subject. ..To travel armed, necessary in Italy. ..The brigands. ..Their respect for the English... Conclusive observations. Page 1 to 12. CONTENTS. IX

Chapter II. Brighton

Object of the journey. ..Brighton. ..Charges of the boatmen... Passage by sea... Anecdotes... The temporary superiority a use to the sea gives the sailors. ..Reflections... A love of superiority animates mankind. ..Instances in the different classes of society... Virtue and knowledge. ..Intrigue and cabal... Domestic vipers. ..The weak and stupid. ..Rank and fortune. ..Affectation of hauteur. ..Aped by little minds ... Grand little folks ... Dieppe, its general appearance... French women... Anecdote of an interesting girl ... Feelings of an Englishman, on his first visit to France... General courtesy of the French. ..French diligences compared with English stage coaches... English rage for neatness... Its consequences... Comparison of the English and French higher and lower classes... Causes of the inferiority of the higher classes of the French. ..The despotism ofthe government. ..Government influence, the cause of one dynasty so easily succeeding another. ..Rouen. ..Ludicrous appearance in French tra ■ veiling. ..Anecdotc.Idle tales of the French women...

First sight of Paris. ..Fine character of the present race in France... Owing to the revolution. ..Emigrant nobility ...General character of the French women. Page 13 to • 27.

Chapter III. Paris And Lyons

Reasons for not entering into a lengthened detail of Paris... Wrong idea of the French, from publications by prejudiced persons... English coldness... French liveliness... Their ridi- X CONTENTS. cule of the untravelled English... Practical philosophy ne cessary in travelling... General sketch of Paris. ..Its magnificence ... Edifices .. . Monuments...Gardens . . . Curiosities . . . Bustle of the streets... Amusements... Fine air and consequent sensations... Treats for the sensualist. ..Food for the intellectual. ..Best views of and in Paris... Charge of demo ralization against the present French. ..Compared with the old Bourbon court.. . Anecdote. . .Journey to Lyons.. .Rous seau...Appearance ofthe country. ..Straight roads...Fon tainbleau...Anecdote...National feeling of the French... Their enthusiastic love of Buonaparte...

Anecdotes. ..Hills ...Picturesque scenery... Anecdote of a young woman... Napoleon...Lyons...Its great men. ..Its ancient history... Description of its present state... Situation... Climate... Picturesque beauties ... Edifices. ..Bridges. ..Curiosities... Celebrated women...Charms of nature. ..Conclusive reflections. Page 28 to 46.

Chapter IV. Crossing The Alps

Mountains of Savoy.. .Beauty of vegetation...Fruits...Grand scenery ...Valley of Eschelles ... Grotto... Duke of Savoy ... Tunnel of Buonaparte ... Chambery ... Cascade... Mulberry trees...Mont Melian...The Isere... Aiguibelle ...The Arc. ..Avalanches.. .The inhabitants afflicted with goitres... Causes... La ChapelIe...New road... Scenery awful and grand... St. Jean de Maurienne... Its situation... The air cold...Torrents...Cascades...Snow-decked cliffs... Mountains well cultivated... Lanslebourg... Savoy women ...Mont Cenis...Napoleon...The grandeur of his ideas and works. ..Grand road...Plain on Mont Cenis. ..Hannibal ...Descent into Italy... Feelings on entering... Suza... Hercules...Hannibal...Vale of Suza. ..Rivoli. ..Fruits... Canals. ..The Dora Ripuaria. Page 47 to 58. CONTENTS. XI

Chapter V. Turin, Alessandria, And Genoa

Turin. ..Its fortifications. ..General appearance. ..Architecture ... Decorations ... Manufactures ... Climate... King of Sardinia...Alessandria...Its citadel and bridge improved by Napoleon. .. Processions. ..Marengo...Novi... The Bocchetta...Fine views. ..Rich scenery. ..Genoa. ..Similitude of the inhabitants to the English... The Genoese, a noble race. ..The Sardinian government detested... The city like a besieged town... The soldiers and effigy of the king openly insulted... Treatment of the English by the Sardinian government. ..Police and consuls ... Their manœuvring, exactions, &c...The English consul. ..Adored by the Genoese. ..His noble conduct. ..Genoese labourers ...Streets. ..Houses and palaces, general appearance... Church of Carignano. ..Bridge. ..Genoese mode of terminating existence. ..Former power of Genoa. ..Genoese citizens ... Their independent spirit ... Their complaints against England's ministers. ..Their love for the English people. Page 59 to 71-

Chapter VI. The Feulucca, Leghorn, And Pisa

Ceremony of taking leave. ..Men kissing each other... Mediterranean sea... Comforts of an Italian feulucca compared ...Amusements and pleasing occupations. ..Fleas. ..Torment from them... Bold shore... Mode of catching fish... Porto Fino. ..Clearness and colour ofthe water...Etrurian coast. ..Porto di Venere... Apennines. ..Fine appearance... Padrone... Napoleon... Believed to be dead by the Ita- CONTENTS. lians...Told that our ministers deceive us. ..Land at Leghorn fatigued and disgusted. ..Leghorn a free port. ..Reception of the English... Pavement of the city... Coaches ...Princess of Austria embarked for the Brazils. ..Description ofthe ship. ..Its stores, smells, splendid decorations, and dirt... Olfactory nerves of the princess. ..German luxury. ..Leghorn. ..Its port. ...Its origin. ..Women. ..Italian language. ..Bronze statues...

Road to Pisa...Luxuriancy of the vines... Pisa... Its situation. ..Buildings. ..The leaning tower. ..A phenomenon in art. ..Its description... The cathedral...Its decorations... Former power of Pisa. ..The Baptistry. ..Its echo. ..The Campo Santo. ..Its ornaments ...Botanical garden... Tower of Ugolino... Origin of Pisa. Page 72 to 83.

Chapter VII. From Pisa To Rome

Purchase a carriage... Small oversight... Scenery similar to that of England... St. Miniato... Ancestors of Napoleon... Sienna. ..Its situation... Fete. ..Tournament. ..Gaiety ofthe city. ..Chanting and serenading. ..Amiability of the Catholics. ..Reflections. ..Insignificance of the human species. ..Compared with ants to their disadvantage... Folly of human pursuits.. .Human weakness. ..Instanced in disputes on religion. ..On the mode of worship. ..Inhuman animosity to each other. ..Diversity of opinion... Reflections thereon... Insanity of human beings. ..Harmonious sounds... Bad road... Country infested by robbers... Carriage breaks down...Villany of the post-master.. .Carriage repaired...Country hilly and barren. ..Inns wretched... Carriage again breaks down ... Mended ... Ascend the mountain of Radicofani. ..Banditti.. .Postilions appeared of that class. ..Our shattered equipage...

Dreary appearance. ..Character of the country around. ..Change horses CONTENTS. XIII at the top of the mountain...View grand and awful... Darkness set in. ..Descent fearful and terrific... Carriage overturned. ..Lightning. ..Terrific noises... Fears of ban ditti...Threats of postilions. ..Arrive at Aquapendente... Character of its inhabitants. ..Situation. ..Italian extortion The English most subject to it... Natural caverns...Bol sena...The lake... Beautiful scenery... A celebrated wood ...Montefiascone...Its situation... Peculiarity in Italian scenery...Muscatel wine. ..Viterbo... Paved with lava...Car riage again overturned. ..The country a desert. ..Boccano ...Enthusiastic feelings on the first sight of Rome. Page 84 to 98.

Chapter VIII. Ancient Rome

Arrival... Directions for becoming acquainted with its localities. ..Best points of view. ..Emotions and disappointment on finding Rome a modern city. ..Ancient Rome has disappeared. ..Causes of its destruction. ..Wretched feeling of the Farnese and other families... Works of destruction seen. ..Modern Rome a disgrace to the local beauties of the surrounding hills. ..Contrast. ..Principal objects of attraction. ..The Capitol. ..Reflections when seated on the tower.. .Ancient state compared with the present... The forum. ..Grand and interesting in ruins... Palatine hill... Tarpeian rock... Tiber.. .Ruins ofthe forum... Admirable spirit of the French. ..Pillar of Phocias... Duchess of Devonshire. ..Original pavement of the forum... Enjoyment in treading on it... Depth of the ruins... Rome in the hands of the French or English...

Triumphal arches.. .Arch of Constantine... Preservers of art. ..Elgin and Buonaparte...Constantine, a brutal and tasteless plunderer... His wretched vanity and mad ambition... His destruction of the arch of Trajan. ..The Coliseum... Its structure, size, and ruins... Its destruction...By whom accomplished...Original magni- CONTENTS. ficence of the forum. ..Ruins to the walls. ..Coriolanus... Baths of Caracalla. ..Present state... Hercules of Glycon and Farnesian bull found there... Baths of Titus... Present state. ..Laocoon found there...Walls...Aqueducts...Mau soleum of Caius Cestius...Aventine hill. ..Circus Maximus ...Rape of the Sabines... Mount Palatine... Romulus and Remus... Present state of the seat of infant Rome. ..The Pantheon... Feelings on entering. ..Its beauty and excellent preservation...Its former state. ..Busts of celebrated men... Portico... Origin ofthe word pantheon. Page 99 to 114.

Chapter IX. Modern Rome

Its description, scite, and space. ..Present celebrity... St, Peter's... Situated on the Vatican mount... Its appearance on approaching. ..Its magnitude and beauty of decoration... Its want of power to fill the mind. ..Its marbles, mosaics, &c... Ascent to the top... Extensive view from the cross... Gothic taste of St. Peter's... Its littleness of style, when compared with ancient Roman grandeur... The Vatican... Its wonders. ..The Sistine chapel. ..Michael Angelo Buonorotti...The chambers of Raffaelle... The state of their divine works... Negligence and want of proper feeling in the Papal government. ..Gallery of sculpture... The Apollo... The Laocoon... Badly seen... Contrasted with their situation in Paris. ..State of feeling in Rome as regards the works of art... Indifference of the inhabitants...

The situation of the chef d'œuvres of Raffaelle, Domenichino, and Guercino. ..Circular colonnade of St. Peter's... The castle of St. Angelo... Mausoleum of Hadrian... The bridge of St. Angelo. ..The Tiber. ..The Campidoglio...Its appearance... Our disappointments compared with Father Paul's ...The sculpture.. .The paintings... Their neglected state ...Antonine column. ..Its situation... To whom erected... CONTENTS. XV Its state. ..The Trajan column. ..Good taste ofthe French ...The forum of Trajan... Character of Roman sculpture... Farnese palace... Paintings of Annibal Carrachi... Dirty state of the palace... Fleas... Contemptible appearance of the buildings...Feelings excited. ..Villa Farnesiana...Ga latea and Cupid and Psyche, by Raffaelle... Their loveliness... Surrounded by a state of desolation...

The man who shows them, compared with the one at. Hampton Court... The sewers... Arch of Janus, and small one of Septimus Severus. ..Basso relievoes. ..Temple of Minerva Medica... The Catacombs... St. Paul's... Another infamous spoliation of Constantine's. Page 115 to 127.

Chapter X. Modern Rome

: EXHIBITIONS. In the mausoleum of Augustus... Music, fire works, and bull baits. ..The latter a harmless amusement... Conversaziones and concerts... Marquis Canova. ..Thunder storm... Streets ...Fountains... Quirinal hill. ..The Pope's residence. ..His palace guard. ..His appearance and character. ..Mode of salutation... Monte Cavallo... Statues of Castor and Pollux...Piazza d'Espagna...Pincean hill. ..Promenade... Piazza del Populo... Three principal streets. ..II Corso... A drive for carriages... Celebrated house for ices, &c... Piazza Navona... Place of assemblage for the inhabitants when inundated. ..Anecdote. ..Englishmen and dogs... Bridges... Horatius Codes. ..The Jews... State of their quarter... ...Uncleanliness of Rome. ..The Roman flea... Toleration ...Churches at all times open. ..Compared with St. Paul's in London. ..Desperate state of the country. ..Character of the Pope's soldiers... The escort necessary. ..Cautions in journeying to Naples. Page 128 to 136. CONTENTS.

Chapter XI. Rome To Naples

Splendid recollections on classic ground. ..Dangers of the road. ..Horace. ..His narration... Appian Way. ..Its ancient description. ..Via Campania. ..Via Tusculum. ..Ancient monuments. ..Claudian aqueduct. ..Horatii and Curiatii...Mountains of Albano. ..Alba Longa...By whom built. ..Sepulchre of Ascanius... Castel Gondolfo...Milo and Clodius...Lake of Albano... Its estuary... A Roman work at the time of the siege of Veii...Gensano... Carlo Maratti .. Nemi... Lake of Nemi. ..The mirror of Diana... Civita Lavinia. ..Æneas. ..Antoninus the Pious. ..Celebrated pictures. ..Corioli... Scene ofthe exploits related in Virgil's Æneid ... Velletri ... Family of Augustus ... Residence of the emperors. ..Dwelling place of Barbone the robber. ..Cisterna... St. Paul's. ..Tres Tabernæ...The brigands. ..Assassination. ..Diabolical system. ..Mode of operation ..Negligence of the restored government, contrasted with the excellence of that of the French. ..Imbecility ofthe present authorities in Italy. ..The murdered man...

Another murder the same night... Particulars... Advantage taken by the guards and postilions. ..Torre del Tre Ponti ... Pomptine marshes ... Origin ... The Lacedæmonians ... Goddess Feronia... Populous state of the district formerly ...Description of the marshes... Cæsar's project for draining them. ..Augustus... Trajan. ..Sixtus V....Pius VI.. ..Cicero. ..Antium...Its temples... Apollo Belvidere and Gladiator found there... Residence of Circe... Ulysses... Terracina, the ancient Anxur. ..Horace's description. ..Douaniers of the Roman state...Barracks formed in the rock... Tower of the confines... Genial climate... Grotto... Sejanus and Tiberius...Fondi...Wines...Neapolitan douaniers... CONTENTS. XVII Their disappointment. ..Their roguery... Cautions. ..Itri... Wretchedness of the inhabitants...

Tomb of Cicero... Fountain of Artacia... Ulysses. ..Mola di Gaieta, the an cient Formiæ...The Lestrigons...Ovid...The women of Mo la di Gaieta. .. Cicero. ..Formianum... Gaieta. ..Its foundation by Æneas. ..Mausoleum of Munatius Plaucus... Anec dote...Temple of Mercury. ..Curious rock. ..Carigliano... Minturnum... Caius Marius...Falernia...Its wines. ..Fabius and Hannibal... Romans and Samnites... Improvement of scenery. ..Capua. ..Its origin... Roman cruelty...Destruc tion of Capua. ..Aversa.. .Its ancient celebrity. ..The country luxurious. ..Approach to Naples. ..Its noise.. .What compared with. Page 137 to 159.

Chapter XII. Naples

Disappointment... Splendour and wretchedness. ..Streets of Naples. ..Description... Heterogeneous assemblage... Noises ...Confusion ...Dangers ...Importunities... Chaos... Good humour. ..Misery and uncleanliness...Fine attire... Vermin ...Delicious fruits. .Leisure moments. ..How employed... Naples the climax of dirtiness... Pleasures for the curious ...Delights for the entomologist... Hotels... Essence of lavender... Glorious climate... Degraded inhabitants... A delightful residence for the apathetic... Origin of all evils, a bad government. ..Soldiers. ..Their unlimited power and dastardly conduct. ..Picking pockets. ..Anarchy. ..Corruption and inefficiency of the government. ..Instances. ..The king. ..His appearance. ..His good nature and want of principle. ..His lady... Naples, the seat of luxury. ..Its origin and history. ..Napoleon. ..Murat. ..His excellent character. ..Much regretted...

The Studio... Hercules of Glycon... Bronze equestrian statues,. .Pictures. ..Models., .Carb CONTENTS. XVIII toons of Cupid and Psyche. ..Colossal statue of Buona parte... Equestrian statue of Murat... Statues in San Se ven)...Their bad taste. ..Tauro Farnese... Its story. ..The story-telIers...Description of them and their auditories... Beautiful groupes... Punchinello... Theatre San Carlo... Gaudiness of decoration. ..Destroys the effect of the scene ...Anecdote. ..Superiority of the French theatres... Mode of lighting, contrasted with our own. ..Contemptible per formances. . . Vetturini . . . Coffee-houses . . . Ices . . . Beggars. . . Dresses of the lower classes. ..The hair of the women... The women of Naples not beautiful...Luxurious bathing... The Lazaroni...Deliciousness of the climate. ..Description of the bay. ..Reflections. ..True happiness is in virtue. Page 160 to 179.

Chapter XIII. Vesuvius, Herculaneum, And Pompeii

Progress to Portici. ..Accident. ..Vesuvius. ..Its grandeur during the time of an eruption... Ascent by night. ..The hermitage... Friar John.. .Further progress described... Difficulty of ascent... Approach to the crater. ..Heat of the ground. ..The explosions... Magnificence of the sight... Human power contemptible in comparison...The flowing ofthe lava. ..Its description. .. Excessive heat...A golden shower. ..Dante's Inferno. ..Liquid fire... Probable danger ...Sun rise. ..Fine view. ..Laughable descent... Layers of lava. ..History of Vesuvius... Its various eruptions...Museum of Portici... Paintings and curiosities. ..Descent into Herculaneum. ..Description...Impression of a man's face in the lava. ..Narrowness of mind which conducts the excavations... Destruction of Herculaneum... Its ancient history...

Pompeii, a fairy city. ..Sensations in exploring... CONTENTS. XIX Temples ,. . Amphitheatre . . . Forum ...Tribune... Mansion of Sallust.. .Streets, shops, and tombs. ..Effect of enchant ment...Overwhelming of Pompeii. Page 180 to 200.

Chapter XIV. Excursions To Pozzuoli And

BAIÆ. Mountains of Posilipo...Grotto...Its origin and description ...Tomb of Virgil... Ancient laurel. ..Territory of Pozzuoli ...Its former and present character. ..Lago d'Agnano... Frogs. ..Hypothesis. ..Baths. ..Grotto of the dog. ..Its description and effects on various animals. ..Cause. .. Solfatara... Hercules. ..Pozzuoli. ..Its origin... Tombs discovered... St. Paul...Amphitheatre...St. Januarius... Labyrinth of Dædalus... Cicero... Bridge of Caligula. ..Description... The mad emperor... Monte Nuovo... Return to Naples... Sail to Baiæ... Mediterranean sea compared with Chelsea Reach. ..Reflections. ..Our situation compared with that of Ulysses... School of Virgil. ..Monk and the fishing-rod... Captain Grose's definition... Land of the Cimmerians... Baiæ... Marcellus and the Princess Charlotte...

Their similar fate. ..Roman voluptuaries... Roman cement. ..Temples...Echo... Baths of Nero... Their description... Hell... The Sibyl's cavern... Its present appearance similar to Virgil's description. ..Ulysses. ..Æneas. ..The Lake Avernus... The river Acheron. ..Dante's description. ..The Elysian fields... Ancient Cumæ. ..Temple of Dædalus... Present appearance of the country.. .Cape Mesinus... Pliny... ' Falernian wine. ..One of the Cyclops. Page 201 to 222. 1)2 XX CONTENTS.

Chapter XV. Return To Rome

Reflections. ..Ceremony of hiding watches, &c....Pomptine marshes... Danger in passing... Dismal appearances... Drowsiness and suffocation...Feelings and terrors... Shrieking noises compared to the Furies of Orestes... A wfulness of situation... Sudden alarm.. .The brigands attacked and overpowered...The banditti's cavern... Description of its inmates. ..The hovel explored. ..Consternation of travellers. ..Their laughable appearances... Brigands made prisoners. ..Observations. ..Travellers robbed and stripped. Page 223 to 231.

Chapter XVI. Rome

: EXCURSION TO TIVOLI. The Pope... Excursion to Tivoli. ..The Anic.Lake of Solfatara...Its smell. ..Tomb of Plautius...The villa of Hadrian. ..Its former magnificence. ..Its ruins. ..Hadrian. ..His taste display ed... Tivoli... Temple of Vesta... Temple of the Sibyls... General Miolis... Grotto of Neptune. ..Scene of magnificence. ..Interior ofthe grotto. ..Anecdote. ..Character given the English... Beautiful appearances... Loveliness of climate... Romantic scenery. ..Producing luxurious repose of mind. ..Villas of ancient celebrated men. ..Fine view... Villa of Mæcenas . . . Cascades . . . Lucien Buonaparte . . . Latium...The country of the Sabines... Frascati. ..The brigands and the Pope's guard... Return to Rome. ..Temple of Vesta . . . Theatre of Marcellus . . . Description. ..Portico of Octavia...

Place of exhibition for the ancient painters... CONTENTS. XXI ...Mount Janiculum... Signor Camucini... Begging friars ...Their impudence and greediness... The Pope's guards join the brigands...Last sight of Rome. Page 232 to 241.

Chapter XVII. Departure From Rome

Thoughts on leaving... Escape of robbers. ..Civita Castellana ...Ancient city of Veii...Its site. ..Siege. ..Roman soldiers receive pay. ..Otricoli... Fine view... Former state of the road. ..The Apennines... Beautiful scenery. ..Narni... Its romantic situation. ..Antiquities. ..Terni. ..Tacitus... Monte Somma. ..Plains of Italy. ..Ovid. ..Story of Phaeton. ..Spoleto. ..Its celebrity. ..Hannibal. ..The Clitumnus ...Its ancient character... White oxen.. .Virgil. ..Trevi... Romantic situation. .. Foligno. ..Skeggia... Mountain rent asunder...Bridge...The Metaurus... Defeat of Asdrubal... Flaminian way cut through a mountain. ..Urbino. ..Fano... Anecdotes of the irritability of the Italians... The Adriatic... Fevers... Death of Mr. Woodforde... Triumphal arch... Pessaro... Its appearance... The Adriatic. ..

Cuttlefish...Fruit... Princess of Wales... Republic of San Marino...Its long existence. ..Its poverty and consequent independence... Rimini... Triumphal arch. ..Italian taste... Cæsar...Bridge of Vitruvius. ..Joins the Emilian and Flaminian ways. ..Ravenna. ..Imbecile tyrants. ..The Rubicon ...Cæsar.. .Cause ofthe decline of empires... Plains of Lombardy. Page 242 to 252. CONTENTS.

Chapter XVIII. Bologna And Padua

Celebrity of Bologna... Places worthy of notice. ..Pictures... Christ of Correggio... Sketch of Titian... Academie delle belle Arte. ..Magnificent assemblage of works of art... ...University... Impositions of picture dealers. ..Presumption and ignorance of connoisseurs... Streets... Portico of the Virgin. .. Cento... Ferrara. ..Ariosto... The Po. ..Flying bridge. ..Its description... Vines... Rovigo... The ancient Adria...The Adige... Italian discord. ..Italian singing compared with that ofthe French and English. ..Mon Selice... Extensive view. ..Improvement in the appearance of tliG people ... Canals... Padua. ..Its origin ...University. ..Celebrated men. ..Buildings. ..St. Paul's in London compared ...St. Antonio... The town hall.. .Its singularity... Streets and coffee-houses... The Brenta... Italian palaces contrasted with English cottages...The English and posterity... Fusina... Anecdote. Page 253 to 264.

Chapter XIX. Venice

Its appearance from Fusina... Former celebrity... The approach by the Lagunes... Magnificence of its appearance ...Boats and gondolas... Bustle... The grand canal. ..The insignificant Rialto... Luxury of a gondola... Splendid sights... Night scene... Palladio... English modern builders ...Their bad taste... Patronage thrown away upon them... Imitation of Italian architecture condemned... The Grecian and Roman recommended... Real architects,.. Ana- CONTENTS. XXIII logy in architecture and painting... Ancient tastc.Its superiority arises from simplicity and good sense... Bad taste of the moderns... Its origin. ..The form of a cross objected to... Rejected by painters and sculptors... Artists the only persons capable of guiding the public taste... St. Mark's... A curiosity in architecture. ..The bronze horses. ..Their bad situation...

Contrasted with that in Paris. ..Pictures. ..Titian. ..His fine works...Tintoret...Pal lazzio Ducalc.Its interior magnificence. ..Paintings... Memorable event. ..A doge hanged...Pictures... St. Peter Martyr, by Titian. ..Paul Veronese. ..La Scuola...Cruci fixion of Tintoret... Buildings. ..Decorations. ..Reflections in the square of St. Mark's. ..Gliding on the canals... Views of Cagnaletti...Sun set...Belfry of St. Mark's... Galileo . . . Inhabitants . . . Despotism ...The puppet-show Its excellence... Filthiness of the Venetians...Contempti ble nobility. Page 265 to 282.

Chapter XX. Venice To Milan

Fusina. ..MorniDg view of Venice. ..Splendour of the heavens. ..Padua. ..Accident. ..Ease of mind. ..Promised safety under the Austrian government...Civility of its officers... The people governed by cannon. ..Vicenza.. .Olympic theatre by Palladio... Its description... Palace of Public Reason . . . The ladies . . . Verona . . . The amphitheatre ... Its description and present disfigurement... Grateful sensations created by nature... Feelings of disgost excited by the despotism of man. ..Great men. ..The Alps. ..Loveliness of climate. ..Custom of smoking...Lago di Garda... Its character... Desenzano... Imposition. ..Thoughtlessness ...Brescia. ..Ospitaletto... Robbed of our luggage. ..Pursuit ...Villany of the people at the post-house... No hope of CONTENTS. recovery. ..Feelings in consequence... The earth a para dise. Page 283 to 296.

Chapter XXI. Milan

Its ancient state; made the seat of empire by Dioclesian... Its remains and present state... Made the capital of Italy by Napoleon... The cathedral... Compared with St. Peter's ...Rescued from destruction and finished by Napoleon... Its grandeur and decorations ...Charles Borromeo... Lodge of the Emperor. ..Arena of Buonaparte... Its description. ..Triumphal arch to Napoleon... Its grandeur and excellence of workmanship... The Brera... Paintings ...Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinci... False assertions . respecting it. ..Theatre La Scala. ..Its appearance... Excellence of the performances ... Promenades ... Coffee-houses. ..Streets. ..General appearance of Milan. ..Complaints of the people.. .French and Austrian governments contrasted ... Inhabitants ... Women ... Treatment of the English...

Anecdote to the glory of England's national character.. .Buonaparte... Money still coined bearing his effigy... Statues of himself and family publicly exhibited... Justice to Italy. Page 297 to 306.

Chapter XXII. Passage Of The Simplon

Farewell to Italy ...Its present state, and character of its inhabitants. ..Reflections. ..Riches the source of trouble and vexation.,. True happiness in poverty, with a mind CONTENTS. XXV free... Road to the Simplon. ..The Tiseno... Hannibal and Scipio...Lago Maggiore. ..Statue of Charles Borromeo... The Borromean Isles. ..Anecdote of Buonaparte...Fario la...Marble quarry... Domo D'Osola...The defiles...Mag nificent bridge. ..Gallery. ..Grand scenery. ..Mode of blow ing up the rocks... Appearances grand and beautiful... Column for the arch of Napoleon ...The inhabitants ex press their love of Buonaparte. ..Scenery producing emo tions of awe and delight... The gallery of Gondo... Scene of prodigious grandeur... The gallery of Algoby... Ascent to the clouds... Beautiful appearances... Village of the Simplon. ..Excellent fare. ..Pretty women...

Derivation of the Simplon. ..Lake. ..Snowy regions... The glaciers...De scent...The old route. ..The Hospice. ..Kindness to way worn travellers... Valley of the Rhone. ..Brigg. ..Works of the Simplon. Page 307 to 316. CHAPTER XXm. VALLEY OF THE RHONE: GENEVA. Brigg. ..Its inhabitants ... Travellers' complaints. ..Curious contests. ..English colonel. ..Valley of the Rhone. ..Sion... Its cleanliness and pretty women. ..Scenery. ..Fruits. ..Nature ever lovely...Man only destroys its beauty. ..The Rhone. ..Lake of Geneva... Geneva... Its celebrity and situation.. . English women . . .Manufactories . . .Inns . . . Departure. ...Jura mountains... Dijon... Mont Blanc... Arrival home. Page 317 to 324. CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV. Conclusive Observations

The governments of Italy. ..Compared with that of France... The absurdity of legitimacy as applied to governments... The objects for which governments are instituted... The agreement equally binding... The people's power to reject. ..Incapacity of the governments of Italy. ..Instances ...Governments of the present day characterized... Advantages of the French government in Italy, and consequent improvement of the state of society. ..Lighting the streets... Modesty of the legitimates... Fearful state of Italy... Fine qualities of the Italians... The French... Origin of our hostility. ..Anticipation. ..French nobleness of heart ...Anecdote. ..French vivacity... Anecdote. ..Servants... Politeness and dexterity. ..Anecdotes. ..England an Englishman's boast. Page 325 to 336. Directions to travellers.

Page 339 to 345. PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE FINE ARTS. That the history of the arts has been less cultivated than that of arms and politics, is a general and just complaint ; but to which writers will seldom be inclined to pay attention, be cause it is always an easier task to relate wars and negotiations, debates and battles, than to describe the gradual and almost imperceptible progress of genius and taste, in works of ele gance and beauty. In this age of refinement, when, from the number of literary publications, accumulated stores of knowledge are laid open, and rendered of comparatively easy access to the inquisitive mind, we cannot but congratulate ourselves that the good sense and spirit of the people have overcome the bigotry of governments, whose interest has been thought to consist in keeping them in a state of ignorance.

There is not any thing which more unequivo cally proves the great progress of civilization, preliminary remarks and improvement in the national intellect, than the general and increasing feeling of all ranks in favour of the Fine Arts. In England, the arts are but in their infancy; but we begin now to feel what constitutes the true glory of an empire. We are now sensible, that merely to be a warlike nation, is to possess a rank little above barbarians ; and that to be truly great, we must cultivate the mind. God, in his formation of man, stamped on him his own image : and as in form we are su perior to every other animal, so likewise has he endowed us with mental powers, which, the more they are cultivated, the nearer we resem ble himself. Intellect is what raises one man above another ; and it is by a combination of the intellectual powers of many men, that one nation, or one age, is rendered superior to ano ther.