Memories of Rome

Front matter

MEMORIES OF ROME. INTERIOR OF [OB OF ST. PETER'S. MEMORIES OF ROME. BT DENIS O'DONOVAN, ESQ. AUTHOR OF " HORÆ JUVENILES," ETC. ETC. " Oft have I dreamed of thee !"— Byaoir. " Terrarum Dea, gentiumque, Roma, Cui par est nihil, et nihil secundum." Masl. lib. xii. ep. 8. LONDON : Catholic f trMisInng * Compang, prate*., CHARLES DOLMAN, MANAGES, 61, NEW BOND STREET, & 6, QUEEN'S HEAD PASSAGE, PATERNOSTER ROW ; J. MULLANY, 1, PARLIAMENT STREET, DUBLIN. 1859. [The lu.jhl oj Translation U reserved.}

Preface

. Some six or seven months ago, being detained by unfavourable weather in a small town of Western Germany, and having no other means of occupying the long, dreary days that I was forced to spend there, I amused myself by writing a few of the following chapters. SiDce then, some additional leisure has given me the opportunity of increasing their number, and gradually, and without having formed any original intention of the kind, they have swelled into such dimensions as have induced me to make them public. This, perhaps, would be sufficient preface for a work on almost any other subject than the present, circumstances of a similar nature being generally received as a satisfactory apology for the offence of publication, and even sometimes acknowledged as a tolerable excuse for numerous defects; and I might content myself with it, merely urging, further, the fact of these chapters being composed at different times, and at very irregular intervals, as a plea for the incompleteness of connection which may sometimes be observed between them, did I not feel it necessary to refer to an objection to which it is just possible some may consider the appearance of the present pages to be liable. This is, the number b VI

PREFACE.

. of works which have been already written on the Eternal City. " How," I may be asked, " could you resolve to write on Rome, a subject which has been exhausted by so many writers more illustrious, who have counted, one by one, every stone in its ruins, and measured every pillar and arch from St. Peter's to Santa Croce, — from the Villa Borghese to the Pyramid of Caius Cestius and the Thermæ of Caracalla?" To this objection, and to all those of a similar class, there is but one answer to be given — they are obsolete. In these days of ours, if it were permitted to describe those places only which are unknown, or nearly so, who would dare to lift the pen? The perfection of locomotion has rendered the universe too small ; since the invention of steam, men make three steps like the gods, and they touch the extremities of the earth.

We have trains de plaisir from Paris to Jerusalem ; we picnic on the Pyramids, and have boating-parties on the Nile ; we drink soda-water in the desert, and are as familiar with the Prater of Vienna and the Prado of Madrid as with certain quarters of the towns in which we habitually reside. There is, then, no longer any country which may be called unknown — the last veil has been drawn from the statue of Isis, and now we are better acquainted with the mirabilia of the antipodes than our ancestors were with the wonders of Naples or the Rhine. There can be, then, no more valid objection to Rome, as the subject of a work, than to Tunis or Con stantinople ; all have alike been long since explored and accurately described.

PREFACE.

. VII Nay, further, it were not difficult to show that, in the case of the former, it is even of less value than in that of either of the latter ; for Rome is a city whose interest is so much deeper, whose treasures are so much more multitudinous and various than any other on the earth, that even when the capitals of the Sultan and the Bey are worn-out and threadbare themes, the Mistress of the World will be still as inexhaustible as ever. The beauty and dimensions of its public edifices, which form the principal charm of ordinary cities, being but one out of the thousand attrac tions which belong to Rome, how precisely soever they may be all described, — the wonders of interest, which are connected neither with their form nor their height, and are in many instances distinct from them altogether, would still remain untouched.

The minutest features, both of the ancient and modern city, may be portrayed with the nicest accuracy- — not a balcony in the Corso nor a weed upbn the Coliseum being forgotten, — and the mere Guides aux Voyageurs and the handbooks may be multiplied ad infinitum, and, as a usual consequence,, ad nauseam ; but still the secret of association which attaches even to names- — the world-history written on its soil — the aims and results of generations worked upon its monuments — the wondrous influence of fascination exercised by the genius of the place — these, and many other mysteries of the Eternal City, will ever remain unfathomed, and but imperfectly revealed. " II semble," says Madame de Stael, " qu'il est encore necessaire d'etre initie dans le secret de cette ville," — a remark (including the pro. b2

PREFACE.

. voking encore) which will apply to Rome ages hence, as well as in the days of Oswald and Corinne. Again, the very fact that Rome is a city of which so much has been said and written — which in all times since its foundation has commanded so much attention — seems to me but an additional argument in favour of the interest which such a subject, however viewed, must always continue to possess. Scarcely any two individuals will view the same locality, and bring away exactly the same impressions. Nature, that has not wished even two leaves to be alike, has put the same diversity between the minds of men. We must, then, always receive with a certain curiosity, at least, the account which each one has to give of the places he has visited ; and more particularly so, when the spot described has, as in the present instance, such incom parably larger claims upon our interest than any other in the world.

Indeed, I may here remark, that it is influenced by this argument, more than by the former, that I venture to offer the following pages to the public. I had neither the desire nor the leisure to compose a bookful of profundities — to reveal the arcana of recol lections and associations — to disclose abstruse and hidden things, which are, perhaps, only felt, and will never be completely understood. The scope of this work has been far a humbler one, as might have been expected, when the circumstances are considered under which it was commenced. I will not, however, make further allusion to my object here, as it has been fully described in the first of the follow ing chapters, to which the reader is referred ; but I

PREFACE.

. IX will merely add, with regard to this subject, that if the perusal of the present volume shall fill a few idle hours for any one as pleasantly as its composition has done for me, I shall have fully accomplished the only object for which I wrote ; and if it shall correct a single false notion, or give one more accurate idea concerning any subject of which it treats — if it shall increase in the slightest degree the respect and veneration which is due to Rome, not only as the capital of religion, but also as the parent of civilization — or, if it shall help a single individual to understand more clearly the amiable character, the lofty qualities of head and heart with which its illustrious ruler is adorned, I shall feel myself rewarded even beyond my highest expectations. D. O'D. 38, Main Street, 3Kjnsaxe, March 15th, 1859. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Introductory Remarks — Advantages of Travel — Interest attaching to certain localities — No City more famou9 than Rome — Rome compared with Jerusalem — Quotation from Rogers — The Wonders of Rome — Its Associations — Interesting Monuments instanced — The Arts in Rome — Religion in Rome — The Capital of Christendom — Piety and Decorum of the Romans — Examples — The interest of Rome felt by Travellers of every religious denomination — Other interesting localities compared with Rome — Superior interest of the Eternal City— Page 1—8.

Chapter II

A FEW PICTURES OF ST. PETER's. Arrival in Rome — First glimpse of St. Peter's — Appearance of the Great Basilica by night — Visit to St. Peter's — The Piazza — The Colonnade — The Dome — The Obelisk — Emotion on entering the Church — The interior — My impressions — All idea of distance lost in its exact proportions — Measurement of some of its details — Examination of individual objects — Glorious Works of Art — Feelings on looking up into the Dome — The Chair of St. Peter — Ornaments of the Church — Feelings on leaving St. Peter's — Ascent of the Dome — Population on the roof — Glance into the Church — Celebrated view from the to£ — Second glance into the Church — The Ball — Descent into the Crypt — Shrine of the Apostles — The Sacristy — The Golden Rose — St. Peter's seen under every variety of circumstance — Points de vue — Illumination of the Church — Extraordinary equability of temperature in St. Peter's — How produced — The mind improved by a visit to this wonderful Church — Page 9—19. CONTENTS.

Chapter III

A WALK TO THE COLISEUM. The Coliseum — Admiration of this glorious ruin — Comparison with St. Peter's — Walk from my hotel — The Gesu — Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus — Now occupied by the Church and Convent of the Ara Cœli — The Bambino — The Capitol — The Forum — Rains of the Imperial Palace — Basilica of Constantine — Reflections — Arch of Titus — Arch of Constantine — Meta Sudans — Tbe Coliseum — A few figures — Some description of the building — Fine masonry — Obligation to the Popes for the preservation of this noble Monument — Admirable idea of Pius IX. — The Arena — Reflections — Wild beasts — Human victims — Bull-feast in the Fourteenth Century — The Coliseum placed under the protection of the Holy Martyrs — "Various purposes to which it has been converted — Its present state — Origin of its name — Page 20-27.

Chapter IV. Other Views Of The Coliseum

Italian moonlight — Extraordinary Phenomenon — Visit to the Coliseum by Moonlight — Peculiarly beautiful and impressive aspect which it then presents — Opinion of Matthews — Lord Byron's description — Devotions of the "Via Crucis " — Reflections — Historical ' Reminiscences — Religious Discourses in the Coliseum — Reference made to one in particular — The Franciscan Father — Leaving the Coliseum — Words of the Venerable Bede — (Quotation from Madame de Stael in the note)— Page 28—36.

Chapter V

, MY FIRST VISIT TO THE VATICAN. The Royal Staircase — Reflections — The Sala Regia — Brilliant Assembly — Capella Sistina — The Frescoes — The Last Judgment — The Cardinals — Anecdote of an Englishman — The Pope — Feelings on first beholding the Sovereign Pontiff — His Appearance — Opinion of a Protestant Clergyman — Anecdote of a noble Lady — Allusion to the CONTENTS. XIII Generosity of the Pope towards the Irish— Dignified Assembly of the Pope and the Princes of the Church — Midnight Mass — Mass at S. Luigi — Remark of a French Gentleman on the Appearance of the Holy Father and the Cardinals — Page 37 — 48.

Chapter VI

A STROLL THROUGH THE GALLERIES OF THE VATICAN. TheSalaDucale — Galleries of Raphael — Rooms of Raphael — Remarkson Raphael's Style of Painting — Raphael compared with Michael Angelo — The " School of Athens " — Other Works of this great Master — The Library — The Stanza de' Papiri — Manner in which the Books are kept — Curious Works in Print and Manuscript — Books condemned in the Index — Beautiful Vases and other Ornaments — Sacred Objects, &c. of early Christian Times — Fine Collection of Byzantine and Mediæval Italian Painting — Various other curious and interesting Objects — The Librarians of the Vatican — Some remarkable ones — —Page 49—56.

Chapter VII

A FEW SKETCHES TAKEN IN THE VATICAN. The "Apollo Belvedere" — Feelings on beholding this wonderful Statue — Lord Byron's Lines — The Laocoon — Compared with tbe Apollo — Opinions of Pliny and Michael Angelo — Description — Painful Appearance of Reality — View from the Balcony — Byron quoted again — The Antinous ofthe Vatican — General View of the Vatican Museum — Its glorious Treasures — Feelings experienced in walking through the splendid Halls — The Picture Gallery — The most wonderful Collection ever made — The Transfiguration — The Communion of St. Jerome — Admiration of these unrivalled Works — Comparison — The Madonna da Foligno — Remarks on the Figures of St. Francis and tbe Angel — Extent ofthe Vatican — Page 57—64.

Chapter VIII. Christmas In Rome

Ceremonies during the night — Beautiful singing of the French Nuns — Celebrations in the Choir-chapel of St. Peter's — The celebrated Offertory — Solemn appearance of St. Peter's by daybreak — Early devotion CONTENTS. of the Romans — The Papal High Mass — Remarkable strangers pre sent — The general assembly — Striking illustration of the unity of the Church — Strictures on the conduct of some non-Catholic strangers — Instances of their irreverent behaviour on some occasions — In most cases the result of thoughtlessness — Shown by their general readi ness to desist when remonstrated with— Stringent measures should be adopted with those who will not be otherwise corrected — Social aspect of Christmas in Rome — Domestic festivities — The evening spent with a Roman family of distinction — Page 65 — 75.

Chapter IX. Celebrations Of The New Year

Reflections on the close of the Year — Manner of celebrating the New Year in various Countries — How it is celebrated in Rome — The Last Day of the Old Year — State Procession — Arrival at the Gesu — Te Deum and Benediction by the Pope in that Church — The Dawning of New Year's Day — The Gestt again — The Veni Creator — Social Aspect — Rigour with which Visits of Congratulation are exacted on this occasion — Mode of avoiding this inconvenience— An old and graceful Custom — Page 76 — 81.

Chapter X. An Old Column And

A NEW ONE. The Pillar of Trajan — Forum of Trajan — The original Appearance of this beautiful Forum — An old Writer quoted — Exertions of Pius IX. in favour of this as well as other Monuments of Antiquity — The Pillar — The Bronze Copy in Paris — Description — Measurement — The Bas-reliefs — Their Interest — Church of the Madonna di Loretto — Its Dome — The Column of the Immaculate Conception — Piazza di Spagna — Compared with the Forum Trajanum — Description — Appropriate Site for the Column of the Conception — The Propaganda — The Mausoleum of Augustus — The Column described — Its Emblematical Decorations explained — Concluding Remarks — Page 82—89. CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XI

A FEAST OF LANGUAGES. The Polyglot Academy — Exemplification of almost all the principal Languages of the Earth — Music — The Prolusione — Account of some of the Pieces — Amusing Dialogue — Some Pieces song by Students in the Style of their native Countries — Distinguished Company assembled on the occasion — Complaints made by the Ladies — LTniqueness of the Spectacle — Sermons in the Church of S. Andrea della Yalle — Anxiety shown by Rome to provide for the spiritual Wants of her Children — Oriental Rites — General Interest of this Season— Page 90—96.

Chapter XII. Irish Institutions

The Irish College and Church of S. Agata — Pleasure ofa Visit to this interesting Institution — Feelings on hearing the Irish Language spoken by some of the Students — Lament for the loss of our National Language —Memorial to the Heart of O'Connell — The Festa of S. Agata — The Irish Dominicans — Church of San Clemente — Interesting Features of this remarkable Church — The Irish Franciscans — Church and Convent of S. Isidoro — Festival of St. Patrick — Establishment of the Augustinians — The Graves of three remarkable Irishmen — Quotation from the " Annals of the Four Masters" — The Elegy of Owen Roe Mac Ward — Selections from Clarence Mangan's Translation of this Poem — 1 age 97 — 108.

Chapter XIII. The Catacombs

Advantages of a Visit to the Catacombs — Edification to be derived by the untravelled from a description of them — Wonderful workings of Providence illustrated by the Catacombs — Human reason baffled, and the teaching of the Church supported by the testimony of the Catacombs — The Lesson of the Catacombs important in the present age of unbelief — The Theory of the A renaria — Other benefits derived from a Visit to the Catacombs — Reflections suggested by a CONTENTS. Visit to the Catacombs — Persecution of the Infant Church — Persecu tion at all time3 the Heritage of Truth — At all times ineffectual to accomplish its purpose — Our own Country instanced — Persecution foretold by Christ to be tbe lot of his Disciples — Reference made to Works on the Catacombs — What Pius IX. has done for the Cata combs — Other names mentioned in connection with this subject — Page 109—118.

Chapter XIV. The Carnival

The Revolution opposed to the innocent Gaieties of the Carnival — The Carnival regaining its former brilliancy — The unfavourable Weather with which it opened last Year — Brightness of the concluding Days —Defence of the Carnival — The Artistic Toilet of the Lower Classes — The Minenti — Description of the Carnival — Charge of Cavalry — Horse-race — The Grooms — Excitement during this Amusement — Tranquillity of Rome during the Evenings of the Carnival — Masquerade Balls — The Moccoletti — Another word in favour of the Carnival — Celebrations of the Church during these Days — Processions through the Ruins of Rome, and Stations of the Cross in the Coliseum— Page 119—126.

Chapter XV. The Lent In Rome

The Flight of Sight-seers — No Amusements during Lent — Ash- Wednesday in the Sistine — Sermons delivered during Lent — Fasting in Rome — Piety of the Romans particularly noticeable in Lent — The Scala Santa — The Annunciation — Interesting Ceremony of the Distribution of Dowries — Partiality of the Italians towards this admirable Charity — Encouraged by the Pope — Creation of Cardinals — Their Receptions — Complimentary Remarks of Cardinal Antonucci on the Character of the Irish — Description of a Roman Conversazione — Manners of the Italians — Their Powers of Conversation — These reunions not sufficiently frequented by the English — Page 127—136. CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XVI. The Holy Week

Return of Sight-seers — Splendour of the Ceremonies of Holy Week — Palm-Sunday — Distribution of Palms — Procession — High Mass — Singing ofthe Passion, &c. — The Ten ebrœ avid Miserere — Washing of the Pilgrims' feet at La Trinitd, de' Pellegrini — Holy Thursday — High Mass in the Sistine — Procession to the Capella Paolina — Lavanda at St. Peter's — The Cena— All the Galleries of the Vatican open — Other Sights at St. Peter's — Second Miserere in the Sistine — The Pauline — Shops of the Pizzicaruoli — Good Friday — Mass of the Presanctified — Solemnity of the Ceremonies on this Day — Singing of the Pope's Choir — Procession from the Pauline — The last Miserere — Veneration of the Relics — Close of Evening at St. Peter's — Holy Saturday — Peculiar Ceremonies — The Gloria — Ceremonies at S. Giovanni in Laterano — Page 137 — 146.

Chapter XVII. Easter

Unparalleled grandeur of the Ceremonies on Easter Sunday — Favourable Weather — Daybreak — Sight on entering St. Peter's — Adoration ofthe Blessed Sacrament — Progress of the Procession — Obeisance to the Pope — Peculiarities of the Mass ou this occasion — The Music and Poetry of the Church for Easter — The Pope's Voice — The Silver Trumpets — The Benediction — The Illuminations — The Silver Illumination — The Golden Illumination — Appearance of St. Peter's as the lights begin to die out — Easter Monday — The Fireworks — The Great Cross — The Girandola — Fitting conclusion of the Easter Celebrations — Page 147 — 154.

Chapter XVIII

A PAINFUL RECOLLECTION. The Caffe" Greco — Church of S. Andrea delle Fratte — Fontana di Trevi — Acqua Vergine — Brought to Rome by Agrippa — The Fountain adorned by Clement XII. — The Via Appia — Tomb of the Scipios — Church of Domine quo vadis ? — Basilica of St. Sebastian — Chapel of the Caetanis — Tomb of Cæcilia Metella — Byron's lines — La Fete-Dieu at Marseilles — Page 155 — 166. CONTENTS. XVIII

Chapter XIX

A PILGRIMAGE THROUGH THE CHURCHES. Tbe Basilicas— St. John Lateran— The Corsini Chapel— Relics— Santa Maria Maggiore— Borghese Chapel— Princess Borghese— San Paolo — A splendid Memorial of the present Pontificate — San Lorenzo — S. Agnese — S. Andreadella Valle — S. Andrea de' Scozzesi — S. Antonio Abate— SS. Apostoli— The Cappuccini — Santa Cecilia^ Santa Croce in Gerusalemme— II Gesu, — S. Giorgio in Velabro — S. Giovanni de' Fiorentini — SS. Giovanni e Paolo — S. Giovanni in Oleo — S. Giuseppe de' Falegnami— S. Gregorio— S. Ignazio— S. Luigi de' Francesi— S. Marcello— S. Marco— S. Maria degli Angeli—S. M. sopra Minerva — S. M. della Pace— S. M. del Popolo — S. M. in Valicella— S. Onofrio S. Pietro in Vincoli — S. Pudentiana — S. Sabina — S. Tommaso degli Inglesi— La Trinita de' Monti— La Trinity de' Pellegrini— Page 167—184.

Chapter XX. The Pope

Dignity of the Pope — The Person of the Pope — His Dress — The Pope's Drives— Pedestrian Exercise — Monsignor Talbot — Total absence of danger to the Pope — No further necessity for French Protection — The Pope's Daily Life — The portion of the Vatican inhabited by His Holiness— The Pope's Private Apartments — Presentation to the Pope — Mode of Application for this Privilege — Etiquette of the Occasion — Kindness and Familiarity of the Pope — Gentlemen, where received — Ladies, where — Costume required — The Pope's Benediction How objects should be presented for his Blessing — Page 1S5 — 194.

Chapter XXI

A RAMBLE THROUGH THE PALACES. The Pontifical Palaces — The Lateran — The Quirinal — Incidental Remarks on the Revolution — Palazeo Barberini — Borghese — Braschi — Campana — Palazzo della Cancelleria — Chigi — Colonna — Corsini — Martial quoted — Curia Innocentiana — Doria-Pamphili — Farnese — Frescoes — Farnesina — Palazzo Massimi delle Colonne — Sciarra — Spada. — Statue of Pompey — Quotations from Shakspeare and Byron — Palazzo Vidoni or Caffarelli — Raphael — Page 195 — 207. CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XXII. The Pantheon And The Capitol

The Pantheon — Its Antiquity — Associations — Emotion on first beholding the Pantheon — Difficulty of expressing feelings of this nature — State of Preservation — Converted into a Christian Church — Its condition previously to this event — The Portico — The Interior — Dome — The Pantheon sacred in the History of Art — The Capitol — Its present condition — Feelings with which the Traveller approaches the Capitol — Ascent — Square — Equestrian Statue — Palace of the Conservators — Protomoteca — Wolf of the Capitol — Hobhouse, Virgil, Cicero, and Byron quoted — Museo Capitolino — The Dying Gladiator —Byron's lines — Palace of the Senator — Remains of the Tabularium — Wonderful View from the Tower— Page 208—222.

Chapter XXIII. Pencillings In The Suburbs

The Villas of Rome a striking Feature in the Magnificence of the City — The Splendour of these beautiful Residences — Natural Beauty — Treasures of Art — Admirable Position — Remarkable Views — Judicious Arrangement — Skilful Cultivation — Remarkable Objects of Art mentioned — View from the Belrespiro — From the Villa Mellini — From the Villa Ludovisi — Difficulty of describing these Views — Frequent Visits to these Villas — Their Appearance at noon — Singular Tranquillity of an Italian Landscape at that hour — Sunset in Italy — The Villa Borghese — Seen at evening — Impressions produced by such a sight not to be communicated. — Page 223 — 229.

Chapter XXIV. An Excursion

Noisy Preparations — Breakfast — Departure — Description of the Journey to Tivoli — Change in the Appearance of the Country at the 12th milestone — Mountain Scene — Interesting Objects on the Tiburtine Way — Adrian's Villa — The Emperor's Object in the Construction of this extraordinary Villa — The Principal Features in its original arrangement pointed out — Its unparalleled Magnificence — The Causes of its Ruin — Its present State — Entrance into Tivoli — The Sibilla — Difficulty of describing the Scenery of Tivoli — Partiality XX CONTENTS. of Horace, Augustus, Mæcenas, and other distinguished personages for Tivoli— The Objects which form the chief Attraction of this delightful spot— So well known that they do not need description— The Cataract at Terni compared with those of Tivoli— The Temple of the Sibyl— The Villa d'Este— Return to Rome.— Page 230—244.

Chapter XXV

A FETE NOCTURNE. Moonlight Festival — A means of Feting peculiar to the Climate of the South — Farewell Visit to St. Peter's — Appearance of this glorious Basilica by Moonlight — Emotions excited — Visit to the Vatican — Torchlight Excursion through the Halls of this Palace — Effect of this Illumination on the Statues — Tbe Apollo — Wonderful Appearance of the Laocoon — The Ganymede — The Apollo Musagatus — Figure of Melpomene — Regret at leaving all those extraordinary Objects — The Fountains — Their agreeable and useful Nature — Abundance of Water in Rome — The Fountains of Paris, Versailles and St. Cloud, mentioned with reference to those ofthe Eternal City — The latter incomparably superior — The Climate of Rome suited to these delightful Objects — Their Appearance at Noon — At Evening — And by Moonlight — The Aqueducts of Rome — Termination of our Festival by a Torchlight Tour and Picnic in the Coliseum. — Page 245—253.

Chapter XXVI. Departure From Rome

The Morning of my Departure — The Appearance of the Country — Reflections — Rome and Florence — Superior interest and splendour of the former — Emotion at parting from Rome — Reminiscences — The Festivals — The Statues — The Paintings — The Pope — Love for Rome increased by my Sojourn therein — Adieux — Friends — My Last Adieu — Last View of Rome — Feelings experienced in leavincr Rome described by an ancient writer (note). — Page 254 — 262.

Appendix

. St. Peter's page 263 The Apollo and the Laocoon 270 Agriculture, Industry, and Art in the States of the Church 273 Stray Notes on Art — Painting and Sculpture

Chapter I

Introductory Remarks — Advantages of Travel — Interest attaching to certain localities — No City more famous than Rome — Rome compared with Jerusalem — Quotation from Rogers — The Wonders of Rome — Its Associations — Interesting Monuments instanced — The Arts in Rome — Religion in Rome — The Capital of Christendom — Piety and Decorum of the Romans — Examples — The interest of Rome felt by Travellers of every religious denomination — Other interesting localities compared with Rome — Superior interest of the Eternal City. Strange things are those old thoughts that so often knock for entrance to the heart ! — those memories that crowd around us with their precious store of relics gathered and saved as we pass along upon the road of life ! That sweet, faint remembrance of the past, with what a spell it .sways us !

Thought follows thought; each brings something with it — a pearl up cast from waves that are now dim and distant — a flower from fields that have long since been trodden — and many, many sweet pictures of the loved olden times ; — some, gay scenes, and fringed with light and gold ; others, sad, and bound in darkness and ebony, — all loved and treasured by the heart. We first think of these things — we dream of them — and then the rest is feeling — deep, silent ! From this we sometimes wake u to weep ; but while it lasts how sweet it is ! And this is not confined wholly to persons of a rich imagination ; the poorest and the lowliest one has its bits of sunshine — its ancient bliss and sorrow, its old rude pictures of events and places. The peasant loves " the house where he was born ; " he thinks with affection of the hills around it, which are radiant for ever with the brightness of his youth, and the river, whose familiar voice had once chimed into every sound of his la mentation and his joy.

That summer lane is for ever beatified and canonized in his mind with the flood of a great happiness; and those dim, silent places are ever dark to him with the shadows of distress and death that once were on them. But meanly stocked, indeed, is the memory of the poor, illiterate, untravelled peasant, com pared with the stately well-furnished recollection of him who has culled his treasures with care and taste amongst the brightest countries in the world. A thousand visions move his heart, which are not dreamt of by the natives who have never been expatriated from their home-soil. For it is not alone by the associations connected with our own existence that we are moved ; scarcely less are we interested in localities sacred to the heroes of our race, — storied ground, peopled with names and persons famous in the world's annals, — the home of influences that have swayed the human kind, the repositories of the sublimest works of human genius.