Sailing Directions for the Mediterranean Sea. (Originally compiled by J. W. N.) A new edition, by J. S. Hobbs

Front matter

THE MEDITERRANEAN AND BLACK SEAS, THE ADRIATIC, OR CULF OF VENICE, AND THE GRECIAN ARCHIPELAGO. liOISTDON : CHARLES WILSON, (Late J. W. NOME & WILSON,) 157, LEADENHALL STREET, E.C. ADDENDA. February, 1863. Since this Work was in the Press the following alterations and additions have taken place, which the Reader will please to mark with his pen in their respective pages, before perusing the directions there given. CAPE TRAFALGAR — Light — (Page 1). — A lighthouse is erected on this cape, showing a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every half minute, and is visible about 19 miles. The tower is slightly conical, 112 feet high, ot a light stone colour. The dome of the lantern is painted red aud yellow. The building stands on the extreme part of the cape, about 20 yards eastward of a ruined tower, and AV. by S. \ S. from the tower of Meca.

GIBRALTAR — Signals — (Page 4). — The following communication has been received from the agent for Lloyd's at Gibraltar. — Vessels passing the rock, and desirous of having their names and destination reported, are in the habit, no doubt in consequence of seeing the union jack flying at Europa Point, of hoisting their numbers, Ac, when passing that point, which is invisible to the upper signal station, consequently no notice is taken. It would therefore be desirable to request masters of vessels to hoist their numbers when in front of the Upper Signal Station, situated in the centre of the rock, where all signals are taken down and reported. Vessels approachikg the New Mole. — The temporary light, near the extremity ofthe New Alole extension pier at Gibraltar shows red to the southward, ivhite to the westward, and green to the northward.

In reference to the foregoing, the Captain- Superintendent of H.M. Naval Yard at Gibraltar has given the following directions for vessels approaching the New Alole extension pier at night : — The pier of the mole should not be approached whilst the red portion of the light is visible. When the white light is seen, a vessel may steer for the mole, but a wide berth should be given to the extremity of the pier, so as to avoid the sunken stones used in the course of its construction. MALAGA — (Page 17). — The light hitherto shown from the east mole head has been replaced by a fixed white light, varied by red flashes every 2 minutes, and visible in clear weather at a distance of 15 miles. ALMERIA — (Page 21). — The mole of the port of Almeria, on the south coast of Spain, has been extended, during 1859, 100 yards in a direction S. 33° E. (true), having at its outer end a depth of 35 feet of water.

Part I. From The Strait Of Gibraltar To The River Var, On

THE NORTHERN COAST; AND THE COASTS OF MAROCCO AND ALGIERS, FROM CEUTA TO CAPE FERRO, ON THE SOUTHERN SIDE. a $efo (ff-attton, By J. S. HOBBS, f.e.g.s., EIDMOGRAFEER. X-OlSTDOISr : PUBLISHED BY CHARLES WILSON, (Late J. W. NORIE & WILSON), PUBLISHER OF CHARTS AND NAUTICAL WORKS, ETC, AT THB NAVIGATION WAREHOUSE AND NAVAL ACADEMY, 157, LEADENHALL STREET, E.C. 1859. N.B. — Alterations and additional information will be given in supplementary pages as occasion may require, for which see Addenda ; these are also transferred at once to the Chart which this book is intended to accompany ; so that it may sometimes happen the Chart itself has the later information. ANY REMARKS OR COMMUNICATIONS FROM OUR NAUTICAL FRIENDS, FOR THE FUTURE IMPROVEMENT OF THIS, OR OTHER OF OUR WORKS, ARE RESPECTFUL!/? SOLICITED. Entered at Stationers' Hall. LONDON :— COOKE* AND IUCHAEDS, PtUNTlUlS, 51, FENCHURCH STRKKT, CITY. CONTENTS.

PART I.

Section I. THE STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR. 1. From Cape Trafalgar to Gibraltar 1 Cape Trafalgar, 1 ; Alto3, or Heights of Meca, Aceytera Rocks, Paloma, Tarifa, Cabezos Rock, 2 ; Pearl Rock, Algeciras, Gibraltar, 4 ; Eock of Gibraltar, 5. 2. From Cape Spartel to Ceuta and Tetuan 7 Cape Spartel, Tangier Bay, 7 ; Ceuta, 9 , Tetuan Bay, 10 ; Observations on the Tides and Currents in the Strait of Gibraltar, 11 ; Observations on Making for, and Sailing through, the Strait of Gibraltar, either from the westward or east ward, 12. Section II. THE COAST OF SPAIN. 1. From Gibraltar to Cape de Gata, or Gat 15 Estapona, 15; Castle of St. Luis, MarbeUa, 1C; Malaga, Velez Malaga, 17; Nerja, Herradura, 18 ; Almenucar Town, Salobrena Beach, Motril, Cape Sacratif, Adra, 19 ; Alboran Islands and adjacent Shoals, 20 ; Bay of Almeria, Town of Almeria, 21 ; Cape de Gat, General Remarks, 22. 2.

From Cape de Gat to Cape St. Antonio 23 Mojacar, Almazarron, 24 ; Cape Tinosa, Cartagena or Carthagena, 25 ; Bay of Eseombrera, Cape Palos, 27 ; Cape Cervera, Santa Pola, 28 ; Plana Island, Alicante, 29 ; Cape de la Huertas, Benidorme, Bay of Altca, Bay of Calpe, 30 ; Capes Nao and St. Antonio, 31. 3. From Cape St. Antonio to Cape de Creux 32 Denia, 32 ; Cullera, Bay aud City of Valencia, Murviedo, 33 ; Columbrctes, Tort or Haven of the Alfaques, 34 ; River Ehro, 35 ; Tarragona, 36 ; Barcelona, 37 ; Blancs, Cape Tosa, St. Feliu or Philiou, 39 ; Palamos, Cape St. Sebastian, 40 ; Cape Begu, Gulf and Bay of Rosas, Bay of Cadaqme, 41 ; Cape de Creux, 42. CONTENTS. IV Section III. THE BALEARIC ISLANDS, Comprehending Iviza, Formentera, Majorca, and Minorca. Iviza, 44 ; Port Iviza, Cape Martinet, Cala Longa, 45 ; Port San Antonio, 47 ; Formentera, 48; Valverde's Bank, Majorca, 50; Bay of Palma, 51; Cabrera Islands, 52 ; Cala Longa, Port Colon, 53 ; Bays of Alcudia and Pollenza, 54 ; Port Soller, 55 ; Minorca, 56 ; Island of Ayre, 57 ; Port Mahon, 58 ; Cape Musene Vives, Ports Dadaya and Moli, Port or Haven of Fomells, 60 ; Port Ciudadella, Rocks and Shoals reported to lie about the environs of the Balearic Islands, 62.

Section IV. THE COAST OF FRANCE, From Cape de Creux to the River Var. Port Vendres, 63 ; Collioure, Port and City of Narbonnc, 64 ; Cetta or Cette, 65 ; Montpelier, Aigues Mortcs, 66 ; River Rhone, Martigues, Port Bouc, 67 ; Cape Couroime, 68 ; Marseille, 69 ; Sormiou or Port Miou, Cassis, La Ciotat, 71 ; Bandol, Brusc, 74 ; Cape Sicie, Port of St. Nazaire, Remarks on the Coast be tween Bee de 1' Aigle and Isle de Giens, 76 ; Toulon, 77 ; Bay or Road of Hyeres, Islands of Hyeres, 79 ; Bonnes Road, 83 ; Gulf of St. Tropez, 85 ; Gulf of Frejus, Bay of Agay, 87 ; Isles St. Marguerite and Honorat, 88 ; Gulfs of Napoule and Jouan, Antibes, 89. Section V. THE COASTS OF MAROCCO AND ALGIERS, From Ceuta to Cape Ferro, Cape Tres Forcas or Three Points, Melilla, Zaphran Islands, River Molouyah, 92 ; Capes Milonia, Hone, and Noe, Karaka Island, Capes Oussa and Figalo, 93 ; Mount Mesaita, Cape Sigale, Habiba Islands, Cape Lindles, Plane Island, Mers el Kebir, Oran, 94 ; Cape Ferrat, Bay of Arzeu, River Habrah, Mostaganem, 85 ; Schelef Point, Cape Ivi, Point Basse, Cape Hagmisa, Colombi Islet, Cape Tenes, 96 ; Port of Scherschel, Ras el Amouche, Sydy Ferougj, 97 ; Ras Agnathyu, Point Pescade or Cape Caxines, Currents from Algiers to the Zaphran Islands, 98 ; Bay and City of Algiers, 99 ; Capes Matifou and Bengut, 101 ; Cape Tedles, Capes Corbelin and Sigli, Isle Pisan, Cape Carbon, 102 ; Bay of Bujeya, Cape Cavalla, 103 ; Point Jijelli, Cape Bougaroni or the Seven Capes, Bay and City of Kolah, 104 ; Port of Stora, Cape Skikida, 105 ; Currents from Algiers to Galita, 105 ; State of the Winds on the North Coast of Africa, between Oran, Algiers, and Bona, 106.

FOR THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA. Note. — Throughout the following Work the Courses and Bearings are magnetic, or by compass, except where otherwise expressed. The Soundings are those taken when the water is at its lowest level ; and the longitude is computed from Greenwich. An order, issued by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, states, that in order to prevent mistakes which frequently occur from the similarity of the words starboard and larboard — in future, the word P OR T is to be substituted for larboard in all H.M. ships or vessels.

PART I. CONTAINING THE WESTERN PORTION, FROM THE STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR TO

THE RIVER VAR ON THE NORTHERN COAST, AND TO CAPE FERRO ON THE SOUTHERN COAST.

Section I

I.— FROM CAPE TRAFALGAR TO GIBRALTAR. Variation, nearly Two Points West. CAPE TRAFALGAR, situated in latitude 36° 10' 15" north, and in longitude 6° V 30" west from Greenwich, may be considered the north-western point of the en trance to the Strait of Gibraltar, Cape Spartel forming the southern boundary. Cape Trafalgar is about 25 miles distant from the lighthouse of Cadiz, and is of moderate elevation ; it may readily be distinguished by its singular appearance, being fiat, and terminating with two sharp angles, having only a few low rocky points projecting out to seaward. Mr. Biddlecombe says : — " Cape Trafalgar, with the high land at the back, is readily known from the sand-hills and cliffs at the southern extremity. At the eastern part of the cape the brown tower of Meca is situated, and on the western part, about 3 miles distant, is a white tower ; these towers at once determine the cape." [Mediterranean — Part I.] B ✓ * ALTOS, oil HEIGHTS of MECA are formed to the north-eastward of Cape Tra falgar, the land rising high in the interior.

The summits of the heights appear level, and are divided into two parts, being spotted with green clumps and patches of whitish sand. It is not advisable for vessels to come too near the cape, on account of the many rocky shoals that environ it. The ACEYTERA is a dangerous reef of rocks, extending north and south, about a mile, being nearly 2 cables in breadth. The least water over it is 9 feet ; but in the interstices between the rocks there are 5 fathoms. Its N.W. end lies W.N.W. J W., distant 2 miles from Cape Trafalgar, and its S.E. end lies W.S.W., at about a similar distance. When you are upon the northern end of this shoal, Tra falgar Tower will be in one with the Boqueron ; and when upon the shoalest part of this danger, the same tower will be in a line with the highest part of the high land of Meca.

Between tho shoal and the cape is a channel, with a depth of 6 and 7 fathoms. Here the water appears to boil and break, which is merely the effect of the counter currents, and there really is no danger ; yet, during a heavy swell of the sea, and the wind unsteady, it would be highly imprudent to venture through it. There is another bank off Trafalgar, extending 1± mile N.N.W. and S.S.E., distant between 3 and 4 miles from the cape, the least water upon which is 2"* fathoms, while round it are 8 and 10 fathoms ; its northern part lies N.W. by W., 4 miles from the cape, and has the Tower of Trafalgar in one with the Tower of Meca. The S.W. end of this bank bears W. by N., distant 2| miles from the cape, and S.S.W. from the Tower of Conil. Here the Trafalgar Tower is in a line with the Boqueron.

E. by S. from Meca Point and Tower is the Barcadero, or landing-place of Meca ; this is a low beach, with a little creek, affording a run of fresh water. Here are the cove and river of Barbate, before which the anchorage is good, but the river is narrow and shallow ; some rocks also lie off the cove. To the south-eastward, and about 5t) miles from Meca Tower, is the Point and Tower of Sara ; this is of moderate height, near the sea, but forms a mountain inland, with two towers on its summit. From hence a sandy cove extends to the south-eastward 3| miles to Cape Camarinal, which cape is low, but has a watch-tower upon it, and some rocks scattered about its point. Cape Plata is a good mile beyond Cape Camarinal, and formed by the foot of a mountain that descends gradually towards the sea, making a point, which has several rocky islets about it.

There is also a watch-tower upon it. Between Camarinal and Cape Plata is a flat sandy beach, where vessels may find shelter from east and north easterly winds ; large vessels frequently ride here in 7, 8, or 10 fathoms water, and small ones in a less depth, having a cable carried on shore. Small vessels also ride in the cove between Camarinal and the Tower of Sara, during fair weather ; but you must be observant, of the changing of the wind; for should it blow from the S.W., there will be great difficulty to weigh and get under sail. The interior of the land, from Meca Point to Cape Plata, is mountainous, and of considerable elevation. PALOMA. — S.E. j E., distant 4| miles from Cape Plata, is Paloma Point and Tower, with several recks before it ; between these points is the Cove of Balonia, with good anchorage § a cannon-shot from the shore.

At 3j miles from Paloma Point is the Tower and Point of La Pena ; between these points is the Cove of Valdebaqueros, giving shelter to small vessels. Near the east part of Paloma Point is the River Puerco, falling into a small creek, between two ledges of rocks, Ut only for small craft. A range of hills extends from Paloma to Pena Point, appearing with several patches of white sand. TARIFA. — Nearly 4 miles from La Pena is the Chapel of St. Catalina, near which stands the town of Tarifa ; and about f of a mile from it is the small Island of Tarifa, which is connected with the shore by a sandy neck, and forms a peninsula ; this is low and level, having a lighthouse upon it, which exhibits a fixed light, 132 feet above high water, and visible 20 miles, in latitude 36° 0' 50" north, and longitude 5° 36' 37" west.

The island is all around free from danger, except the Rock Marro quina, which lies § a musket-shot south-westward from the tower ; but there are some shallows to the north-westward. The CABEZOS.— About 2\ miles south of Point Paloma, 5 miles N.W. by W. from the Island Tarifa, and nearly W.S.W. from the Tower of Pena, distant 3 miles, CAPE TRAFALGAR TO GIBRALTAR. 3 lies the Cabezos rocky shoal. It is said, in low tides the Cabezos will not have more than 2 feet water over them, while a very little way off there will be 2j and 3 fathoms, and further out 7 and 11 fathoms ; many vessels have been wrecked here, and therefore the greatest care must always be taken to give them a fair berth, by not bringing Tarifa lighthouse to the southward of E. by S., when above a league from it. The situation of these shoals may be known by the peak on the Sierra de Enmedia coming in a line with the two small eminences on the Sierra de la Lnz, bearing E.N.E. To avoid them, bring the low sand-hills to the eastward of Meca by Capo Plata, taking care, in standing to the northward, that they do not become covered by the cape until the Chapel of Luz is open of the east end of the Sierra de Enmedia ; keep thus as a proper distance from the shore.

Arroyo del Puerco, or West Bank. — N.W. by W. from the Cabezos is a rocky shoal, called Arroyo del Puerco ; it is about a mile long, but narrow, and with not less than 3 fathoms over it. Between it and the land are 10, 14, and 18 fathoms ; and between it and the eastern Cabezos, from 8 to 10 fathoms. Westerly winds frequently form a whirlpool between this shoal and the shore. New Bank. — W.S.W. of the Cabezos, distant f of a mile, is a new bank of 7 and 8 fathoms, running W.N.W. § N. and E.S.E. \ S. ; inside, and between this and tho Cabezos, are 10, 11, and 7 fathoms ; and on the outside, to seaward, it runs rapidly into deep water." The Bajeta, or Valdebaqueros, is a shoal, ot from 5| to 12 feet, and lies 1| mile E.N.E. from the eastern Cabezos, and N.W. by N., distant 4 miles from Tarifa lighthouse.

In the channel between it and the Cabezos there are from 4 to 9 and 1 1 fathoms. The ground between' it and Tarifa is sand, and the depths from 7 to 21 fathoms, the deepest water being about midway. Between this shoal and Punta de la Pena there are from 3| to 11 fathoms. Nearly E.S.E. of St. Catalina is Camorro Point, high, broad, and steep, with many rocks about it ; in the cove between the island and town of Tarifa, small vessels may lie, defended from the winds from the S.W. round by N.W. to N.E. ; with other winds they generally run aground in a small creek east of the town ; but large ships ride to the eastward of the island, opposite the sea-gate of the town, which stands at the foot of Mount Cabrita, in from 15 to 18 fathoms. The coast now runs on towards the high Points of Canales and Gualmesi,f on each of which there is a watch-tower ; on the eastern side of the latter is a small cove, with a deep valley covered with orchards, and a small rivulet.

At 2| miles further on is the east point of Acebuche. The land between these points bends in to the northward, and within it stands the Castle of Tolmo ; here the anchorage is good for small vessels, and sheltered from east winds round by north to N.W., having from 6 to 8 fathoms ; the ground holds well, but the shores are rocky. At a mile beyond Point Acebuche is Point del Frayle, distinguished by a watch-tower also, standing on the slope of a hill ; a small island lies off its point, which in appearance is said to resemble a friar, and has several rocks about it. On the east side of the point is a small sandy cove, fit only for small craft, sheltered from the west to the north, and having a castle for the defence of the anchorage. E.N.E. \ N., about 2 miles from Point del Frayle, is Point Carnero, or Cabrita, * Near this bank is said to be a rock, on which the Thisbe frigate struck several years ago.

As this rock has not been found in the late surveys, it is most probable that the frigate struck on one of the Cabezos. t Caution.— The master of the Norma, from Marseilles, lately arrived in the Loire, reports that a sand-bank has lately formed about f of a mile southward of Gualmesi, which is very dangerous, as the current, since its formation, from the IslaDd of Tarifa, bears directly on the shore. The said master has seen an English galliot strike on this bank ; but being very small, and not drawing 10 feet water, she got off. Night setting in, Mr. Biroche (the master) was unable to ascertain the extent of the bank. Point Gualmesi should therefore be approached with great caution. Mr. "W. T. Mainprise, late master, H.M.S. Britannia, says, " I have some faith in the exist ence of this bank, both from information received from an officer high in rank, who spoke of its existence several years ago, and the fact of H.M.S. Dragon, on being docked, was found to have scraped her copper, and whieh injury was supposed to have been received when steaming along this land, at not less than half a mile from it." between which lies Palomas, or Pigeon Island.

On the summit of Point Carnero is a castle and watch-tower. At A of a mile from the said point is Point Secreta, with a small creek between, fit for small craft only. Palomas Island is distant about f of a mile from the watch-tower on Point Carnero, being low and ragged ; off its N.W. part are the two Cabrita Islands ; and 1| cable length further west, is a cluster of small rocks, some above, and others under water. The Pearl Rock lies full -| a mile to the southward of the Island Palomas, having 6, 7, 8, and 9 fathoms water between them ; this passage may be used with a leading wind, taking care to pass by Palomas Island at the distance of 1| cable length. On the Pearl in one part are only 9 feet water, the mark for it being the west end of Palomas Island in one with the third rising from Point Carnero, and a peaked rock off the same point in one with a hill which makes like a sugar-loaf, with a kind of saddle on its summit, to the eastward of St. Roque ; and the tower of Punta Frayle, bearing W.N.W. The town of St. Roque is situated on the top of a small hill, and cannot well be mistaken for any other place in the neighbourhood.

In coming from the westward, you will have passed the Pearl when the town of St. Roque is well open to the eastward of the rocks that run out from Point Carnero, or when that point bears about N. by E., taking care not to bring Europa Point to the eastward of E.N.E. J N. ; then you may run in for the Bays of Algeciras and Gibraltar, giving the port land a good berth ; and if bound for Gibraltar, steer in until you have opened the Devil's Tower ; stand on for that, into any convenient depth, from 20 to 6 or 5 fathoms, and anchor, mooring S.E. and N.W. ; but in war time vessels generally anchor off the New Mole. To clear the Pearl Rock by night, keep the Europa light N.E. by E. § E., not to the eastward, until Tarifa fixed light bears W. by N., northerly, and the reverse for entering the Bay of Gibraltar.

Vessels drawing 18 feet should not pass inside the Pearl, as some 3-fathom patches are said to lie nearly in mid-channel. ALGECIRAS and GIBRALTAR. — Carnero, or Cabrita Point, may be called the western point or boundary of these important bays. N.N.E. g N. from this point stand the Tower and broad Point of San Garcia, distant If mile. Between these points the shores bend inward, forming the Bay or Cove of Gatares, which is large and deep, with a good bottom, excepting off the rocky heads ; but the heavy swell that always accompanies winds from the N.E. to the south-eastward, renders the anchorage bad ; some rivulets are situated at the bottom of this bay, and have a con siderable quantity of water in the winter-time. Both the Points of Cabrita and San Garcia are encompassed with rocks ; but they are mostly visible, and therefore can easily be avoided.

Point Rodea, or Ridea, is I a mile to the northward of San Garcia ; the opening between forms a kind of cove, but its entrance is encumbered with rocks. North from San Garcia, distant a mile, is the Island of Algeciras, also called Verde, or Green Island, which is moderately high, and fortified ; it is nearly surrounded by rocks, which render the approach to it, and the passage between it and the main, exceedingly dangerous, and fit only for small craft. On Verde, or Green Island, is a fixed light, elevated 46 feet, and visible 8 miles- From the S.E. quarter, a full light will be seen ; from the N.E. and S.W., only the half-light ; and from the north to west, the light is invisible. Algeciras is agreeably situated, and was formerly a place of considerable note, con sisting of two towns, and being supplied with water from a fine aqueduct of hewn stone, j of a league in length j but latterly it has gone into decay.

About £ a mile N. *j W. from Green Island is the mole, running out easterly ; to the southward of which is the River Miel, into which small vessels can go at high water. At | a cable's length east from the mole lies the Galera Rock, having two parts of it uncovered just above the level of the sea ; from it runs out a reef to the north-eastward. At J of a mile N.N.E. J E. from the Galera is a shoal, with only 2 fathoms water over it; and from the middle of Algeciras Town a reef runs easterly ; and from the north part of the town, where the Fort of St. Antonio stands, another reef ol larger rocks extends. Continuing along the coast f of a mile, you will see the tower on the Point of Almirante, moderately high, and surrounded with rocks ; § of a mile from which is La Polvora Tower. When these two towers come in a line, you should not anchor, for the ground is foul.

CAPE TRAFALGAR TO GIBRALTAR. The Point of Rinconcillo is | a mile further, and also encircled with rocks. From hence begins a low sandy beach, which extends round the bay so far as Gibraltar, the Point of Mirador Fort and Punta Mala excepted. Above a mile to the northward of Rinconcillo Point is the River Palmones, where the vessels belonging to Algeciras rendezvous in winter ; it is deep and large, but its entrance is encumbered with sand banks, particularly to the southward, which run out a great way. At j of a mile east from the Palmones River is the Tower of Entre Rios, from which, at nearly the same distance, is the entrance to the Guadarranque River, which is of little note. Beyond this, about f of a mile, is Fort Mirador, built circularly, and standing upon a littlo eminence. E.S.E. j S. from the fort is Point de Gallo ; and from Point de Gallo the shore forms a kind of bight toward Point Mala; between them, a little way up the River Mayorga, is a bridge.

Point Mala is a little elevated, and has a few rocks round its point, rendering it necessary to give it a berth in passing. A castle is built upon its summit. Northward from this castle, J of a mile, is the Hospital de la Sangre ; and S.E. by S. from it, distant lj mile, is Fort St. Philip, being the western extremity of the Spanish lines ; these stretch across, and terminate at Fort St. Barbara, on the other side of the peninsula, the land being low and flat all the way to the Rock of Gibraltar, where it suddenly rises to a great height, its top being uneven, with several eminences thereon, and extending southerly until it slopes down to Europa Point, the eastern extremity of the bay, and well-known boundary of the Strait of Gibraltar. Europa Point is in latitude 36° 6' 20" north, and longitude 5" 20' 40" west.

On Europa Point is a lighthouse. The lantern is elevated 150 feet above the level of the sea, and shows a powerful fixed light which is visible within the bay to the mouth of the River Palmones. It is spoken of in high terms as to its brilliancy. The ROCK of GIBRALTAR is the Mons Calpe of the Ancients, and one of the Pillars of Hercules ; it consists of a great rocky mountain, about 3 miles in length, and from g to j of a mile in breadth. On its northern side is an isthmus, about 1| mile long, and f of a mile broad, which connects it with the Spanish Continent. The northern form of this rock is almost perpendicular ; and its summit, which is 1400 feet above the level of the sea, commands an extensive view of Spain and Africa. Its eastern side is full of frightful and abrupt precipices ; the southern side is narrow, and almost inaccessible, presenting hardly any possibility of approach from seaward, but the western side, although nearly as precipitous, rugged, and perpendicular as the others, yet slopes its base down towards the sea, and presents a kind olpied a terre in the small level spot upon which the town is erected ; and this is amply secured from every sort of attack by extensive and most powerful batteries, so that it appears to be impregnable.

One large street traverses almost through the whole town, which is nearly 5 a mile in length, and filled with shops. The Old Mole runs out from the north end of the town, about N.W. by N., 1100 feet into the sea ; the New Mole is 1J mile to the southward of the Old Mole, and extends outwards 700 feet ; it has an elbow formed by the shore, and affords shelter for large vessels in winter, the furthest out lying in 6 and 5 fathoms water.* It has a church, a Catholic chapel, and three synagogues : there are also a naval hospital, a victualling-office, and barracks; a handsome theatre, a garrison library, and other public buildings. The commerce of this place embraces a great variety of articles, not the exclusive produce of the place itself ; but its situation fits it for a general entrepot ; thus cottons, woollens, and most other of the manufactures of England — sugars and rums from the West Indies — tobacco, rice, and flour from America — are imported from the West ; while wines, silks, wax, and numerous other Mediterranean articles are brought in from the East, and contribute to render the possession of this place by the English as valuable, as a commercial concern, in peace, as it is as a military depot in times of war.