Sketches in Carbery, County Cork. Its antiquities, history, legends, and topography

Front matter

SKETCHES IN CARBERY, COUNTY CORK. ITS ANTIQUITIES, HISTORY, LEGENDS, AND TOPOGEAPHY. _v_ DANIEL DONOVAN, JUN., M.D., Q.U.I. DUBLIN: MoGLASHAN & GILL, 50, UPPER SACKVILLE-ST. 1876, PHI NTi;iJ BY ai'QLASnAM AND GII.L, 50, UP. v_ C KVILLE-ST. DUBLIN. PEEFACE. Bf>|Tg3gHE]RE are many interesting places within [If lo con^nes °f Carbery, which supply the antiquarian, historian, naturalist, and artist with abundant inducements for examining into the records and curiosities of antiquity ; studying through authentic sources the warlike achievements, the social customs and manners of past ages and of more recent times, and investigating the natural phenomena, and admiring the beauties of scenery displayed in so charming a manner where'er we turn our gaze. Both visitor and tourist are well repaid for their toil and trouble whilst wandering through its hills and valleys, by observing views, marine and land scape, at once picturesque, stern, beautiful, and diver sified in the highest degree — bold, rocky headlands, precipitous cliffs, rugged mountains, and gently winding and romantic harbours and bays.

The more sublime and imposing scenery of Kil larney and Glengarriff, Bantry and Gougane Barra, has been already fully dilated on by the eloquent Preface. IV pens of clever writers, or transferred to canvas with artistic skill by the magic brushes of skilful painters. Though Carbery may be comparatively barren of interest, when placed in contrast with such sparkling gems of the Emerald Isle, still, however, it possesses sufficient attractions along its picturesque sea-coast to entitle it to more than a passing notice either in poetry or prose. The " Sketches in Carbery," written from time to time at irregular intervals, during leisure hours, have already partly appeared in the columns of the West Cork Eagle. I have now collected them together for publication in the form of a small volume. They are more or less of a superficial character, skimming over the surface, and wanting perhaps in the statistics and practical details which charac terize the hand-books of a country or locality.

They treat in a rambling manner, as the name would imply (a sort of 011a Podrida), of the local history, legendary lore, antiquities, and topography of various interesting places throughout the extensive baronies of Carbery, county Cork. They do not embrace or give in consecutive order a complete account of the various towns, and it is more than probable that some topics of interest have been either forgotten by the writer or only casually referred to. I have endeavoured, however, as far as my limited information and knowledge of the subject Preface. V could lead me, to condense, and arrange together, all the leading facts and prominent occurrences, whether historical or otherwise, which I thought might interest and engage the reader's attention. I am fully aware that many imperfections of style, and perhaps some errors, both historical and archæological, will be discovered, and which are inseparable from the labours of one who is comparatively a tyro in the domains of literature : for such I must only solicit the reader's lenient criticism and pardon.

Chapter I

Carbery, its ancient History — Tbe Old Milesian Families who settled there — Mac Carthy Reagh and Kilbrittan Castle — Scenery along the sea-coast — A Geological Legend — Physical aspect of the Barony ; its Mineral Wealth, Climate, Picturesque Towns and Villages near the sea — Skibbereen, Dunmanway, Clonakilty, &c. — Ecclesiastical Ruins and Castles, &c

Chapter II

Baltimore, derivation of name, antiquity — Expedition against this place in 1537 from Waterford — Charter of incorporation in 1613 from James I. — Colonised by Sir Thomas Crooke — Celebrated Algerine invasion of Baltimore, 20th June, 1631— Returned two M. P.s from A. D. 1613 to 1800, when it was disfranchised — List of M. P.s — Lord Baltimore, colonizer of Maryland, derived his title from the place — Migration of the O'Driscolls to Spain, the original country of their ancestors — Battle of Rath, Contents. XII FAGS CO

Chapter III

A trip down the Ren river — Scenery along the banks — Relics and ruins of tbe pa»t — Abbey de Sancto Mauro, founded 1 172— Abbeystrowry — View of the adjoining country — Innishbeg island in the river, where Book of Dues was presented to St. Fachtnan, first Bishop of Roescarbery, by the chieftains of Corea Laidhe — Ringa Roga island, and castle — Innisherkin (Inis Arcain), its Franciscan Abbey (A. D. 1460), subterranean chambers — General description of these curiosities of the Pagan age, 28

Chapter IV

Sherkin continued — Castle surrendered to Captain Harvey, A. D. 1601, after battle of Kinsale— The O'Driscolls during the 15th century — Full account of the invasion from Waterford — Digression upon the ancient Celtic writing known as the Ogham — Cromlechs, their history — The various forms of habitation in ancient times — Raths, Duns, Cahirs, Crannogues, &c, ... 46

Chapter V

Cape Clear (Insula Sancta. Clara;) — The Gasconane Sound — Captain Boyton's daring swim through the Gasconane (1875) from the American packet — Lands at Trafraska Bay, near Baltimore — General view of the island, size, population, scenery — Carbery's Hundred Isles surround us — Curious separation of Inisfadda (Long Island, near Skull) into three distinct portions by a thunderstorm in the 9th century — Sherkin and Cape Clear most probably united to the mainland as a promontory in remote ages — The Fisheries of Cape, climate, longevity, great physical strength and endurance of the inhabitants — Smith and Lewis's favourable opinion of them — Distress in Cape during 1862 — Father Leader's noble exertions on behalf of the poor people — Review of Father O'Rourke's work on the Irish Famine of 1847 — Benevolence of Baroness Burdett Coutts towards the islanders, . Contents. XIII PAGE 99

Chapter VI

Cape Clear continued — History of St. Kieran, patron saint of the island — Description of a severe storm in Cape during February, 1874 — Dunanore Castle, and the legend connected with it — General description of the ancient feudal castles, their architecture and internal economy — Beautiful view from Dun-an-Ore — A glance at IriBh history during the close of the 16th century, 80 CHAPTER Yif. The O'Driscoll pedigree — Tbe aboriginal Milesian colonists of Carbery — Sir Walter Coppinger — Petition against his encroachments by the Mayor and Burgesses of Baltimore — The Telegraph Station on Cape very important during the American war — The old Lighthouse, and magnificent sea view from there — The Signal Tower — Fir breogach — Lough Errul ; habits and manners of the people — Cape Clear, a miniature kingdom, an " Imperium in Imperio" down to A.D. 1700 — Cruathar O'Karevaun (O'Driscoll) the celebrated giant — Agriculture of the island, &c, &c, ....

Chapter VIII

The Skeams, Lough Hyne — The rapids, lake, surrounding mountains, Baid by geologists to be the result of volcanic action — Scenery in the neighbourhood — Poem on Lough Hyne — Legend about the old castle — I.abhra Loingseach — Bill Barrett's midnight visit in search of the golden treasure hidden beneath the castle — Saint Bridget's chapel and well — Pillar stone and sculptured cross — Story connected with them — View from the adjoining eminence, . . . . . . .116

Chapter IX

Coast line from Lough Hyne to Castlehaven — Tithe riots- Naval engagement in Castletownsend Harbour, between the Spanish forces under Don Pedro de Zuibar and the Contents. PAOF 130 153 Enghsh under Admiral Levison, on the 6th December, 1601 — Battle of Kinsale — Departure of O'Donnell from Castlehaven for Spain — Mr. Froude's discovery about the real cause of O'Donnell's death — Interesting relic of the O'Donnells in the Royal Irish Academy — Remarkable Cathair and ruins of Clochan on Knock dromma Hill, near Castletownsend — Beautiful view from it, &c, ........

Chapter X

Myross — The O'Donovans — Baunlaghan — Smith's account of the Dadagh Scene at Blarney Castle — History of the Clancahill or senior branch of the O'Donovans — The Mealagh river — Castle Donovan — A condensed account of the O'Donovans' genealogy down to the beginning of the present century — Castle Ivor — Lough Cluhir and the legend about Ivor — John Collins of Myros9, a brief account of his life — MyroBs continued — The Cistercian Abbey of Carrigilehy — The old fishing hamlet, and the wreck of the smuggled cargo of brandy — Squince House, seat of the Clanloughlin O'Donovans — Shipwreck at Blind Harbour — Dean Swift and the "Carberiæ Rupes" — "Harrington's Lights," 1832— Mysterious appearance at Union Hall — Letters on this wonderful occurrence from a writer in the New Monthly Magazine, and Doctor Donovan, senior, of Skibbereen

Chapter XI

Glandore, origin of the name — Fairy legend about the Princess Cleena — Carraic Cleena — Remarks on both by Drs. Todd and Joyce, M. B. I. A. — Glandore Castle — The Fisheries — Spirited exertions of James Redmond Barry, Esq. — Poem on Glandore — Capture of a whale — Myross House — The Leap — Smith's account of the dangerous passage across the ravine — Ballinlough — Lis-an-Earla and the legend of Tir-na-nOgue — Lough Adereen, and the floating islands — Fairs, faction fights, and festivities — Philosopher Thompson and the co-operative communities — Scenery between Boss and Glandore — Pouladav, curious formation — Ballyverine Contents. XV PAGE 184 216 House, or Coppinger's Court, and a short sketch of Sir Walter Coppinger — Benduff Castle, its history The Morrises — Penn, &c, ......

Chapter XII

Kosscarbery, of ancient origin — Great seat of sanctity and learning in former times — Professor Spalding on the antiquity of Irish Histories — Boss Aillithir (wood of the pilgrims : Joyce) — Scenery in the neighbourhood — St. Fachnan, patron saint of Ross, founds an ancient abbey here — Dr. Lynch, Killala, on derivation of Ross — Former extent of diocese — Legend about St. Fachnan — Toumpleen-na-Fachna — Hanmer and Camden on Ross — St. Brendan — Retrospective view of the distinguished bishops of this venerable See — Ross Cathedral, general account — Curious case of trance, or suspended animation — Modern pilgrimage to the tomb of the Rev. John Power, P. P. — Ross graveyard, &c. — Conclusion,