In Search of a Climate ... With ... illustrations, etc

Front matter

■ ■ ■ ■ I I ■ 1 3 fl ■ I ■ I I IN SEARCH OF A CLIMATE IN SEARCH OF A CLIMATE. BY CHARLES G. NOTTAGE, L.L.B., F.R.G.S. WITH THIRTY PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS, Designed and Produced in Photomezzotype BY THE LONDON STEREOSCOPIC & PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPANY, Ltd LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY LIMITED %>t. ©rnisfatt's Ifouge Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. 1894. PRINTED AND ILLUSTRATED BY THE LONDON STEREOSCOPIC & PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPINY, Ltd., 54, CHEAPSIDE, E.C., AND NEW SOUTHGATE.

Preface

. The book which I am about to inflict on a hapless community may, or may not, be the result of a dinner-table conversation I had, shortly before leaving England, with a young physician. Having informed me that he had just recommended a patient in the first stage of consumption, to spend the winter in Nice, I ventured to remonstrate with him for doing so, on the ground that Nice possessed, in my opinion, one of the most treacherous climates to which I had ever been introduced. He seemed surprised at this ; but my astonishment surpassed his, when I found that he had never been out of England, and knew nothing whatever of the place to which he had doomed his unhappy victim. The conversation then turned on various places to which con sumptive patients are usually sent by English physicians, and my young friend seemed astounded at my description of some of them.

He opened his eyes when I told him of a snow storm I had experienced at Cannes ; of a month's cold winds I had shivered in at Hyeres ; of the cold weather to be found during January, February, and March, at Monte Carlo ; of icicles, as thick as one's arm, I had seen reaching from roof to the foot boards of railway carriages at Marseilles ; of a fall of snow which had disgusted me at Algiers ; and, of shivering for five days at Malta. " Why do you not tell the world of these things ? " he enquired. My reply to his question was simple enough. To write a book, it seemed to me, called for some literary experience, of which I had had none ; besides, it meant hard work — at that time I thought it did, I now know it — and I did not propose to make myself a slave of the pen. VI

PREFACE.

. But, somehow, the suggestion must have taken root, for although I drove it from me whenever it cropped up, when I found myself in the midst of rather stirring events in Honolulu, I made up my mind to jot down, in an unconventional manner, the incidents of the trip. Thus, is the young doctor avenged for my criticism of his professional advice. On re-reading what I have written, I am reminded of a lecture I was taken to hear when a boy. It was given by the father of the present Mr. George Grossmith, and called "The Dark Races." It was exceedingly comic ; the point of the joke being that we never had a word about " The Dark Races " until the lecturer found it was too late to deal with the subject. Amid roars of laughter, he said he feared he must now post pone his remarks on " The Dark Races " to some other evening.

The discursiveness of these notes recalled the above incident. If I were asked to review my own book, in the papers I mention, I should do so, much in the following way, and should the press handle me no more severely than I criticise myself I shall be satisfied. " ' In Search of a Climate ' is a book in which the author assures us that he lays no claim to literary merit. After having perused this somewhat bulky volume we are glad to be able to agree with him, at least, on one point. To attempt to disarm criticism in this way is not new. Formerly globe-trotters were content to keep diaries which they inflicted only on their own family circle, but now a species of cacoethes scribendi seems to possess them, and one bad book follows another at the shortest of intervals. Of ' In Search of a Climate ' we can only speak, as Sir Julius Benedict once did when invited to express an opinion on the playing of a young lady who aspired to become a professional pianist, but whose execution was atrocious.

The fond mother who was waiting eagerly for the verdict was told ' My Dear Madam, your daughter's playing is beyond criticism.' The good lady went away ignorant of what Sir Julius really meant, quite believing he was paying her daughter the highest compliment. Although, as a book, it is of the tamest possible description, we

PREFACE.

. VII consider it to be one of the best illustrated works on travel we have seen for some time, and on that account recommend its purchase." — The Leviathan. "We have read a book called 'In Search of a Climate,' and are forcibly reminded of the entry in the Tichborne claimant's pocket-book, ' Some men 'as money and no brains, others 'as brains and no money, them as 'as brains and no money should live on them as 'as money and no brains.' It is only on some such principle as this, that the author, who must have more money than brains, could have expected the public to buy a book which has nothing to commend it except its cover and a number of excellent photomezzotypes. In one point we thoroughly agree with Mr. C. G. Nottage, and that is as to the unnecessary discomforts the public put up with on board steamships, and if he, by his plain speaking, is able to bring about any improvement, ' In Search of a Climate' will not have been written in vain." — Daily Telephone.

" Amongst recent publications we have had submitted to us is one with the promising title of ' In Search of a Climate.' We were in hopes, previous to its perusal, that it might be a work of value to the profession. Before, however, we had read the first half-dozen pages we became assured of the frivolous nature of the book. Had the author (who seems to put half the alphabet after his name) entitled the volume ' Jottings,' it would have been less misleading. His foolish remarks about the profession, we treat with the disdain they deserve. That a physician should be unable to diagnose so clearly marked a disorder as Emphysema, is, of course, ridiculous. In calling the attention of the public to the cruelty of sending their relatives abroad to die, when in the third stage of Phthisis we fully endorse all Mr. Nottage has to say.

We also find interesting the temperature tables relating to the climate in Honolulu, and know of no more equable spot than this." — The Scalpel. " After reading ' In Search of a Climate ' one is more than ever inclined to enquire, 'Why does not the cobbler stick to his last ? ' As the owner of two most successful racing boats, the author is already well

PREFACE.

. VIII known. But it is only too apparent that with the pen he is far less at home than with the tiller ; and although we should have been only too pleased to praise, had we felt we could honestly do so, we really are quite unable to pronounce the book other than a very mediocre work. From what we know of the author we are convinced that it is not want of patriotism which induces him to speak in such terms of praise of the N. G. L., and which leads him to make unfavourable comparisons between some of our leading S.S. companies and a foreign line. We agree with the author as to the absurdity of sending passengers a voyage of 12,000 miles without a drawer or a wardrobe in their cabins in which to stow away their belongings. It is only another instance of what the public will calmly submit to.

That portion of the book relating to the revolt in Hawaii, is interesting; and so also is the similarity the writer shows to exist between certain portions of our Bible History and the myths of the natives of those Islands." — The Meadow. "The style in which 'In Search of a Climate' is written makes it easy to believe the author is a novice. In a chapter on ' Religion and Rum ' he will undoubtedly offend many of the goody-goody class. From an extract published from our own columns, it would appear that Mr. Nottage shares our views as to the duties of Missionaries, that they, before spreading them selves over the world generally, should use up the British Empire first. From what he tells us, Annexation at Honolulu was looked upon as a fait accompli previous to Cleveland's taking office. We can quite understand the author's elation at finding that subsequent events bore out his impression, that the whole business had been instigated by a few sugar-planters, backed by the American Minister.

Though the book would have been more satisfactory had it been half the size, we can safely recommend it to those who like pretty covers." — Veracity. HONOLULU PAPERS. The Pacific Scrutiniser — (The Annexation Organ). " Probably of all the Islands in the North or South Pacific, none have had more books written about them than ours. Not only do those visiting our shores for a few

PREFACE.

. IX days write volumes as to our history and customs, but some have actually had the presumption to describe this group after a four-hour's sojourn. One of the most amusing works we have yet seen has just come to hand. It is entitled ' In Search of a Climate.' Its author, if we remember rightly, was out here during a critical period in our history. That he really was here at that time, is difficult to believe — so full of inaccuracies is his description of what actually transpired. We consider his remarks on that most impartial of men — the ex-American Minister — to be in grossly bad taste. The chapters on the 'History of Hawaii' he gives us, con tain nothing new, and much the same sort of thing could be found in any one of a score of books on the shelves of our public library. To any resident we should certainly advise a perusal of this last work on our Islands, for the numerous pitfalls into which the author tumbles cannot fail to amuse.

In fact, a more thoroughly stupid book we never read." The Medical Announcement — (Opposed to Annexation). "By yesterday's mail we received a book called 'In Search of a Climate,' by Charles Nottage, LL.B., F.R.G.S. We strongly recommend this book to our readers. Not only does its author seem, whilst amongst us, to have taken a correct estimate of the political position, but he also gives a most interesting account of his stay in these Islands. It is difficult to realize, from the way in which the book is written, that the author spent barely two months in Hawaii. We can quite under stand our 'morning contemporary' objecting to 'In Search of a Climate, &c.,' for it would, doubtless, prefer that all those schemes and lies it tended to promulgate (about the time the Queen was deposed) should be forgotten.

We can only say in conclusion, that everyone should furnish himself with a copy of what we consider to be one of the best and most unconventional books which has, as yet, appeared upon the Hawaiian Revolt." The Enemy — (The Religious Organ). "To tackle a subject of which one knows absolutely nothing is at all times dangerous ; but to write a book without properly studying the question one professes to X

PREFACE.

. write upon, is simply an insult to the intelligence of possible readers. Rarely has a more unpleasant task fallen to our lot than that of reviewing a book called ' In Search of a Climate,' by Mr. C. G. Nottage, LL.B., F.R.G.S. We understand that the author is the son of Lord Mayor Nottage, who died during his year of office (1885). It is sad to find that so thoroughly respected a man should have a son capable of scoffing at serious subjects. We have neither the space nor inclination to refute the nonsense in the chapter headed ' Religion and Rum.' We cannot understand why Mr. Nottage thinks the descendants of the missionaries should not have all the good things in the land. Does he require us to remind him of the text, ' Is not the labourer worthy of his hire ? ' or does he expect us to follow the example of the Papists and forego the feathering of our own nests ?

Apart from this, the scoffer, who has dared to criticise the prayer we offered that our (revolutionary) commission to Washington might be crowned with success, shows throughout the whole volume a spirit of levity which we entirely disapprove. We would advise those of our male readers who do read this book, to carefully keep it out of the way of the lady members of their families. The author we fear is only pandering to a depraved taste in quoting what he does from Sir John Lubbock and other authors, in his attempt to prove that morality is only a matter of convention, and that on the question of morality, Pacific Islanders should not be judged by the same standard as white people." With these anticipatory remarks I will now proceed to the task I have assigned myself; merely asking the more robust of my readers to skip the introductory chapter, which dealing with myself and my ailments, is more likely to be of interest to the invalid. O G. N. London, July, 1893. CONTENTS

Chapter I. Introductory

PACE, Why I went In Search of a Climate — When doctors differ — Experiences of Madeira and Las Palmas — Climatic Tables at Santa Catalina (Author) — ■ Ditto (Dr. Clesby Taylor) — Invalids for whom the Climate of Las Palmas is most suited — The Santa Catalina, an English Hotel — Winter Experiences in St. Petersburgh and in Canada — Contradictory opinions of the English Medical Faculty ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... I

Chapter II. Outward Bound

North German Lloyd ; liberal treatment — Our party in the Karlsruhe — Comfort on Board — Indifferent catering on English Steamships — Advantages found in the ships of the North German Lloyd — A Luncheon Menu — Comparative Table of the number of passengers carried across the Atlantic in 1892 by the competing Steamship Lines — A presentiment "comes off" — P. and O. S. S. Tasmania — Cook's Native Porters at Ismailia — Tropical Weather at Cairo — An Ancient Dahabeah — Pestered by Mosquitoes — I decide to proceed to Australia in the Oldenburg — Enjoy the Run of the Bridge — Summer Experiences in Melbourne ; piercingly cold Winds — Ridiculous Quarantine arrangements — Letter to the Sydney Daily Telegraph upon Quarantine Regulations — We leave the Oldenburg with regret — Unsuitability of the climate of Sydney for the Invalid — Leave Sydney in the Mariposa — Discomforts on Board — Free and Easy Manners of the Stewards — The Servant here is Master, and the Master takes a back seat — Stop at Auckland — Auckland to Samoa — Pleasure derived from Photographic Souvenirs — Our Boatman at Apia a Bronze Apollo — Extortionate Charges by the Natives — Religious Differences and Missionary Squabbles — Mutual Jealousies of Catholics and Protestants ... ... ... ... ... ... ... n

Chapter III. The Sandwich Islands

Honolulu — The Judkins Story — Costume of the Natives — Native Military Band — Description of the Islands by Mark Twain— First Impressions — The Conduct of the Vulgar American Tourist — Exorbitant Charges for Driving — Hotel Charges — Hawaiian "Gee-gees" — English Society in Honolulu — Climate of Hawaii nearly perfect — The Rainfall — Weather Record for 1891 — Civilization up to Date — Electric Light, Telephones, Tramways, Palatial Residences — Princess Ruth's Birth Place — Local Guide-Books and their exaggerations — Visit to the Pali — Sport in Honolulu — Surf Riding — Coffee Culture a good outlet for "Our Boys" — Letters to the Pacific Advertiser — Phenomenal Rainfalls — Distribution of Rainfall over the Islands — Dr. Robert McKibbin's Rainfall Records, 1877-89 — Barometer Records, Honolulu, 1837-90 — Prof. Lyon's Observations at Ohau College — Thermometrical Readings — Usefulness to the Invalid of the Hygrometer — Differences between Summer and Winter Temperature only 9-10 degrees — Mosquitoes very prevalent — How they were introduced into Hawaii — Bungalow Life — "Aloha!" 32

Chapter IV. The Trip To The Volcano Of Kilauea

How to get there — The Inter-Island S.S. Navigation Co. — Honolulu to Punaluu in Hawaii— The Wilder S.S. Line— Moderate Cost of the Trip — Mr. Peter Lee, of Volcano House — A Disagreeable Passage — Steamer Day — Kealakekua CONTENTS. Bay — Captain Cook's Monument — The Great Lava Flows of 1868 and 1887 — Indifferent accommodation on Board Ship — Punaluu — The Toy Railway — A Volcano seldom visited by Englishmen — A Twenty-four Miles' Ride on Horseback — The Half-way-House — We find an amusing character in the Landlord — Gradual ascent of Mauna Loi — The Crater of Mokuaweoweo, ten miles in circumference — The Eruption of 1868 — Fountains of Molten Lava — Extraordinary and Continuous Flow in 1880 and 1881 — A Stream Thirtythree miles in length — Narrow Escape of Hilo — The Volcano Visited — Ladies have to adopt Men's Saddles and Bloomer Costumes — An Improvised Side- Saddle — Extract from Miss Bird's Glowing Description of the Lake of Fire — " Helemaumau ; " or, The Mouth of Hell — The Lower Crater — Impressive Appearance of the Crater as Darkness comes on — The ever-changing aspects of Kilauea — The Dangers of attempting to climb the parapet of the Lower Crater — Narrow Escape of a Party of Ladies — Vivid description of the Volcano by Dr. Lyons — Pele's Hair — The Angry Roar of a Fiery Surf of Molten Lava — Rise and Fall of the Lava Flow — Encasing ten cent pieces in Lava for the World's Fair — Fruit and Flora of the Hawaiian Islands — Our Return to Honolulu — Cruelties of Cattle Loading — Advantages of the Hilo Route — The Dangers of Embarking Passengers — Fatal Accident to Miss Stevens ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 68

Chapter V. Origin Of The Hawaiians

Capital Reading-Room at Honolulu — Fornander's Polynesian Race — A History of the Hawaiian People — The Similarity of their Legends and Traditions to our Genesis — Gradual Spread of the Polynesians over the Hawaiian Group — Their Western Origin traced through their Legend of the Flood, &c. — Extracts from " Myths and Legends," by the late King Kalakaua — Destruction of the Temples — The Last Great Defender of the Hawaiian Gods — The Law of the Tabu — The Authority of the Priesthood — Genealogical Records of the People — How the Females of Royal Blood were valued — The State Toilet of a Hawaiian Lady of Rank — Wedding Ceremonies — Infanticide Customary — Incestuous Marriages — Their Mourning Customs — The Hawaiians were never Cannibals, but offered Human Sacrifices to their Idols — Divination largely practised — The Retinue of a High Chief — Pastimes of the People — The Hawaiian Account of the Creation practically the same as the Mosaic — Te Heuheu's Defence of a Multiple of Gods — The Hawaiian Satan — Their Legend of the Flood ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 100

Chapter VI. Religion And Rum

Population of the Sandwich Islands at the time of Cook's Discovery — The Landing of the Missionaries — Salvation of the Souls of the Natives dependent upon Bodily Clothing — Orgies of the Whaling Fleets — Gross Immorality resulting from their Visits — Law respecting Lewdness — Repeal of the Laws against Vice — Native Opinions upon Chastity — Missionary Party at the present time — Its Origin — Their Accumulation of Wealth — Roman Catholicism at a Discount — French Ultimatum to the Natives to accept Roman Catholicism or War, coupled with the Introduction of Spirits at an ad valorem Duty — Further French Aggressiveness in 1842 — Feud between the Missionaries and Foreign Residents — Father Damien — Local Opinion of his Mission — Last Public Recognition of the Powers of Pele (the Goddess of Hawaii) in 1882 — Princess Ruth — Public Discussions upon Idolatry — Charges of Idolatry against the ex-Queen — Vigorous Denial by a Hawaiian Woman — Rev. S. Bishop on Annexation — Hawaiian Superstition of the Red Fish — Its Appearance coincident with Disasters to the Royal Family — Rapid Diminution of the Native Population — Bigoted Action of the Missionaries, and Suppression of Native Recreations — Asceticism of the Catholic Clergy — Absurdity of sending Missionaries Abroad when they are so much more required in our own Possessions — A Sandwich Island Menu — The Conversion of the Natives a Failure — Cant — The Character and Habits of the Hawaiian of to-day — the Lepers of Molokai — Devotion of Six Roman Catholic Sisters — Sister Rose Gertrude and her Pianos — Native Opinion of CONTENTS.

XV her — Wealth and Status of the Missionaries — Good Work done by Bishop Selwyn in the Melanesian Mission — The Princess Kaiulani's Farewell to the People of America, March 22nd, 1893 ... ... ... ... ... ... 133

Chapter VII. The Revolution

Hawaiian Islands first discovered by Juan Gaetano, 1555— Early History of the People — -Human Sacrifices offered as recently as 1807 — Kamehameha I. — The Napoleon of the Islands — His Reign — Formal Declaration of Submission to Great Britain — He is succeeded by Liholiho, who breaks through the Tabus and makes matchwood of the Idols — A Drunken Court — Succeeded by Kauikeaouli, of Dissipated Habits — His Sudden Conversion — Founding of the First Constitution — Deputation to the United States, and their formal recognition of the Independence of the Islands — Formally taken possession of by Great Britain, February 25th, 1842 — -The Hawaiian Ensign re-hoisted five months afterwards — Joint Declaration of England and France recognising the Sandwich Islands as an Independent State — Appointment of a House of Representatives in 1845 — Decimation of the Population by Disease — Commencement of the Troubles which eventually lead to the Downfall of the Queen — Election of Kalakaua by the Missionary Element — Improved Prosperity of the Islands under his Reign — Visits the United States, and enters into a Reciprocity Treaty — He visits London, 1881 — The Royal Revenue — Walter Murray Gibson, an Adventurer — His Career — A New Constitution, signed 1887 — The Government, Merchants, and Planters disagree — The McKinley Tariff and the Two-Cent Sugar Bounty — Importance of the Sugar Industry — The Remission of Duty represents the loss of yearly to the Planters — Contract Labour with the Japanese — - Approximate Census Table for 1893 — Election of Queen Liliuokalani, January 29th, 1891 — Her Unpopularity with the Business Element — Agitation in the Island over the Louisiana Lottery and an Opium Bill — Close Fighting in the Cabinet — Unparliamentary Manners — Calling a Spade a Spade ! — Parliament prorogued, promulgation of a New Constitution by the Queen, this rashness leads ultimately to her Dethronement and the attempted Annexation of the Country— Committee of Public Safety nominated — Mr. Wilson, the Queen's Marshal, a sound adviser — Weak and vacillating policy of the Cabinet — Hostile Meetings — Resolutions passed at Mass Meetings to Depose the Queen — The Committee Appeal for American Protection — Troops landed — Protest by the Governor — Revolution expected at any moment — Queen and Officers deposed, Provisional Government appointed — Text of its Proclamation — The Queen's Protest — Misleading results of American assistance — Special Commission sent to Washington — Stars and Stripes hoisted, February 3rd — The Bee on the situation — The future value of the Islands, enormous importance they will attain on the cutting of the Nicaragua Canal — The United States Minister interviewed — The Queen's Appeal to the American People — Minister Stevens taken to task by young Wodehouse — The States re-instate the Hawaiian Flag — Commissioner Blunt's investigations 160

Chapter VIII. The Pacific Slope

En route for Southern California, Extraordinary Meeting of a Shipwrecked Crew, Re-united 3,000 miles away from the scene of their Shipwreck — On board the Australia — Elaborate Menu — The Appetite of the average American — Their perpetual unrest — The American "Passenger Agent " — " Baggage Checking " a means of extortion — Their " Perfect System " a delusion and a snare The Palace Hotel, San Francisco, and its comforts— Rain, Thunder and Cold — The Barton Vineyard at Fresno — How it was foisted on a confiding British Public — Yankee smartness versus roguery 224

Chapter IX. Southern California

Los Angeles, anything but an Ideal Residence — Rodondo Beach, colder than Brighton in March— Pasadena— The Raymond Hotel, and its Excursion Parties— Uncongenial Climate of Southern California— Californian Bungalows and Tin-pot CONTENTS. XVI Lumber— East San Gabriel Hotel— Abnormal Rains — Narrowly escape being run over by a Train — Invalids not wanted by Hotel Proprietors — The Real Estate Agents' Experiences in Paradise — Sunny Slope Vineyard, another South-Sea Bubble— Two Million Dollars lost to the Shareholders— Profitable Returns from the Tenant Farmers' Orangeries and Fruit Growing — The Kite-shaped Track at Los Angeles— Judge Lynch — The Underlying Savagery of the Californians — Horrible Details of Lynching — A " Hanging Bee " — A Wretched Murderer Burned Alive — Fiendish Torture of Victims — Has American Journalism gone Rotten ? — The Journalist as a Carrion-seeking Bird — Riverside and its Model Orange Groves — The Fruits of Los Angeles — The Golden Harvest of Hotel-keepers — Fragile American Women and Beefsteak Breakfasts — Curious applications of the term " Parlor " — American Hyper-sensitiveness to Criticism — Alarming Earthquake Shocks — Do the Gladstonians ever Travel ? — Disgusting Advertisements in the San Fraticisco Examiner — Is Mammon the God of the Americans ? — A Terrible Indictment — Insulting Attitude of the Californian Press towards England — Selfish and Exacting Character of American Women — The Carnival of Santa Barbara — The Servant Question and Tips to Waiters — "Horseback Riding " at Montecito 237

Chapter X. Mexican Borderland

The Famous Coronado Beach Hotel, San Diego — The prevalence of Catarrh in Southern California — A Marvellous Spring of Natural " Hair Restorer " — Laxity of the Divorce Laws — Appointments of the Coronado equal to the average Hotel of the Riviera — A handsome Game-bag — Report by the U. S. Signal Service on 15 years' Rainfall — Comparison of Temperature with the Noted European Resorts — Inter-oceanic Climate — The Cost of Lengthened Residence — Clean Linen at a Premium — Peculiarities of the native " Gee-gee " — Value of proper Letters of Introduction — Why I frankly Referred to the State of my Health throughout — Mistress Raggles on the Apollo Belvidere ... 292

Chapter XI. Homeward Bound

We are in a Railway Smash — " The Engine's Biler Busted " — Wonderful imperturbability of American Travellers — Lively altercation with the Railway Authorities — Insolence of the Baggage Clerk — Through the delay we escape a much more Serious Accident between Chicago and New York — Pullman Cars enjoy immunity from accident - — Depraved taste for details of Murder Trials encouraged by the Herald — " We would not if we had known." — The Jury — An Electrocution at Sing-Sing — My own particular hobby-horse — Press Accounts of Yachting — Indifference of the English Press to the popular sport of Yacht Racing — Their technical blundering — Arrive at Chicago twenty-four hours late — Scrambling meals at wayside stations — Getting a drink at Kansas — Leave New York in the Havel — I have a grievance — Underpaid Officers — Messrs. Thomas Cook and Son's Steamers — Summing up my experiences In Search of a Perfect Climate — Arrive in England to find it there awaiting me — Recent events in Honolulu ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 313

Appendix

. Personal and other Experiences of the Mediterranean Health Resorts — Riviera — Monte Carlo — Hyeres — Cannes — Nice— Mentone — Tangiers — Algiers — Cairo — Malta — Teneriffe — Gibraltar — Malaga — Pau — Goonies on the Layson Islands — Interesting Statistics of our abnormal English Summer of 1893, by William Ellis, Esq., of the Royal Greenwich Observatory — Lynching Statistics in America ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ILLUSTRATIONS. Ex-Queen Liliuokalani Frontispiece. Map of the Hawaiian Islands To face Contents. Women of Cairo To face page 17 Thos. Cook and Sons' Nile Tourist Steamer, Rameses the Great ... ... ... ... n 18 Botanical Gardens, Sydney ... ... ... „ ,, 23 Wreck of the German Ship Adlcr. — A Native Hut, Samoa ... ... ... ... ... ;) 26 Tapa Making. — Kava Brewing, Apia, Samoa... „ „ 29 Kapiolani Park, Honolulu ... ... ... ,, 65 Ancient Hawaiian Hut. — Captain Cook's Monument ... ... ... ... ... „ „ 73 Lava Flow of 1881 () 81 Volcano of Kilauea ... ... ... ...

() 85 Embarking Cattle... ... ... ... ... „ ,, 97 Embarking from a Sugar Plantation in Hawaii „ „ 99 Ancient War Canoes ... ... ... ... „ „ 109 Hula Girls ... ... ... ... ... ... „ „ 122 Ancient Hawaiian Temple ... ... ... ,, ,, 125 Buddhist and Maori Idols ... ... ... ,, „ 129 Hawaiian Idol ... ... ... ... ... „ „ 134 Princess Ruth's Birthplace. — Princess Ruth's House, now owned by Hon. C. R. Bishop „ „ 143 Queen's Hospital, (Foreigners' Ward) ... ... ,, ,, 169 Princess Kaiulani, Heiress-Presumptive ... „ ,, 171 The Queen's Palace, Honolulu... ... ... ,, „ 181 Calla Lillies and Roses, at Montecito, Santa Barbara „ „ 283 Bataille des Fleurs, Santa Barbara ... ... „ „ 284 Road to Hot Springs, Santa Barbara... ... „ „ 290 Hotel del Coronado, San Diego, California ... „ „ 299 Railway Accident at Los Cerillos, N.M. ... „ „ 313 A North German Liner... ... ... ... „ „ 328 Saloon of the S.S. Havel ... ... ... „ ,, 329 Monaco. — Monte Carlo Gardens. — The Deerhound ... ... ... ... ••• ,, ,, 337 Goonies at Home, Layson Islands „ „