Ghardaia; or, Ninety Days among the B'ni Mozab. Adventures in the oasis of the Desert of Sahara

Front matter

■ I The Author in the Desert E. B W T-JB_RK; Pl'TS'AM W SB.S GHARDAIA; OB, NINETY DAYS AMONG THE B'NI MOZAB ADVENTURES IN THE OASIS OF THE DESERT OF SAHARA. BY G. NAPHEGYI, M.D., A.M., AUTHOR OF THE "ALBUM OF LANGUAGE," "AMONG THE ARABS," "THE CAUSE OF THE YELLOW FEVER," "HISTORY OF HUNGARY," ETC. NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM & SONS, PUBLISHERS, ASSOCIATION BUILDING, STREET. LONDON : S. LOW, SON * MARSTON. 1871. Entered according to Act os Congress, in the year 1871, by G. P. PUTNAM & SONS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. The New York Printing Company, 8i, 83, & 85 Centre Street, New York. CONTENTS. CHAPTER piQ]j I. The Caravan en Marche 9 II. The B'ni Mozab 10 III. The Gate of the Desert 22 IV. The Sahara 32 V. Mirage 40 VI. The Simoom 50 VII. The Well in the Wady 71 VIII.

In Sight of the Atlas 82 IX. Preparation for the Attack. 94 X. The Bandits of the Sahara 106 XL An Unlooked-for Change 117 XII. The Guard of Honor 128 XIII. Arab Free-Masonry 141 XIV. The Beautiful Captive 150 XV. The Desert Foe of Abd-el-Kader 158 XVI. The Rescue 166 XVII. The Grave of the Rumee 174 XVIIL On the Atlas CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE XIX. The Escape 198 XX. A Night of Horror in the Atlas 209 XXI. The Doomed Caravan 222 XXII. Bedouin Hospitality 233 XXIII. Search for the Caravan 247 XXIV. On the Route again 266 XXV. The Renegade 279 XXVI. The "Bagne" 301 XXVII. The Ostrich-Hunt 311 XXVIII. Ghardaia 320 XXIX. The Grave TO PROFESSOR BUGAT PAL, M.D. > dean of the royal university of pesth, Hungary. Tlemcen, Algiers, , 184- SlR .— Upon leaving the University of Pesth, and while bidding you farewell, I promised, you may remember, to write to you as soon as I had landed on the shores of the New World : you Avill therefore, it is probable, be surprised to receive this letter, coming as it does from the boundaries of Morocco.

I am noAV among the B'ni Mozab, on my way to the great oasis of the Sahara ; and this my first letter to you, announcing my whereabouts, is at the same time a letter of adieu ; for it is impossible to say when I shall again have the opportunity to write to you. Should you see fit to favor me with a few lines, you Avill please address them to the care of Messrs. R s & Co., Morocco ; for it is my intention, upon my return from the Sahara, to pass through that place. As briefly as possible I shall explain to you how I fell 1*

Introduction

. in with the tribe of Arabs with whom I am now about to journey to the Great Desert. During my sojourn in this city, I became acquainted with the former Sapa-tapa of Abd-el-Kader, a German renegade by the name of Ibrahim. This man, a black smith by trade, has risen to a position which no foreigner before him has ever been able to attain in Algeria. He was not only the confidant of the Emir when in the zenith of his glory, but he is also his constant and trustworthy friend in misfortune. He administers the property of the Einir; and it is currently believed that to him Abd-el- Kader intrusted his treasures when taken captive by the French. For six years before Abd-el-Kader was sent to France, he had had in custody, as a hostage, the youngest daughter of Mussa-el-Darkui, a powerful desert chief.

This chief, being envious of the vast influence of the Emir, had Avaged war against him and been disastrously defeated, his wives and baggage falling into the hands of the victor. Abd-el-Kader, however, magnanimously released his female prisoners, with the exception of the youngest daughter of Mussa, and her slave, a beautiful girl, who had but a short time before been purchased by the desert chief in Morocco. Upon leaving his native soil, the Emir intrusted these women to the care of the renegade Ibrahim, in whose charge they remained until a short time ago, when it was determined that they should be restored to their kindred.

INTRODUCTION.

. 7 After a proper amount of negotiation, the present Taleb of Ghardaia, the son of Mussa-el-Darkui, arrived at Tlemcen, with a numerous retinue, to receive from Ibrahim his sister and her slave, and convey them to his home in the great oasis of the Desert. The hostages, having experienced nothing but kindness at the hands of Ibrahim, could view him in uo other light than that of a friend ; for his bearing towards them had ever been that of a fond parent. At the time of their capture, the two girls were not more than fourteen years of age. Their helpless con dition had appealed to all that was noble in Ibrahim's heart; and he had manifested towards them a solicitude as tender as that of a devoted father, prompted solely by the feeling which is stirred in eArery generous bosom at the sight of youthful innocence deprived of its natural protectors, and which finds its highest reward in the con sciousness of having been able to lighten in some degree the misfortunes of a fellow-being.

The Taleb recognized to its full extent the disinterested kindness of Ibrahim, and was anxious to testify his gratitude in some fitting manner ; but the sole favor that the latter required of him was that he should take me under his protection during my stay in the Sahara, — do very difficult task for the desert chief, but a matter of prime importance to my humble self. The chief having given a cordial assent to my friend's request, I have resolved to place myself in his hands and journey with him to the oasis.

INTRODUCTION.

. The length of my stay in the Sahara I cannot at present determine; but, as my temperament, although strongly tinged with a love of adventure, inclines me to the society of civilized men rather than to that of barbarians, I may confidently say to you, "Au revoir bientdt." With profound respect, Professor, I subscribe myself Your affectionate friend and former pupil, G. NAPHEGYI. GHARDAIA.

Chapter I. The Caravan En Marche

THE morning Avas cool and refreshing. The purple and golden hues of the eastern sky an nounced the approach of the orb of day. The long line of mountains, the verdant earth, the duars of the Arabs, the tents of the nomad Bedouins, the herds of camels and flocks of sheep, all enveloped in the rose-tinted mist of the morning, constituted a picture of surpassing beauty, at which it seemed to me I could have gazed for hours without Aveari ness. Our caravan was already on the march ; and as I saAv before me the long row of camels, Avith the fierce-looking Arabs in their train, before my mental vision rose the picture I had oft beheld in childhood of a caravan of pilgrims bound for Mecca. I remembered how I had then yearned to behold for myself the distant, mysterious East, little dreaming that the time was to come Avhen I should THE CARAVAN. be treading the burning sands of Africa on my Avay to the heart of the Desert.

For a feAV minutes my thoughts reverted to the peaceful days of childhood in my far-away home, and the emotions excited by the comparison of the past with the present Avere tinged with regret for Avasted opportunities and with anxiety for the future ; but soon my buoy ant nature reasserted itself, and I was once more the light-hearted adArenturer, ready to adapt myself to Avhatever fate might have in store for me. In front of the caraA^an rode three guides, on swift dromedaries. They Avere young men, not more than thirty years of age, who had already frequently traA^ersed that route, sometimes on their own account Avith the products of the oasis to be exchanged for those of Morocco and Tripoli, some times in their present capacity of guides. They were natives of Tsebit, and, in gratitude for some former services of the Taleb, had volunteered to accompany him on his present journey.

The eldest had been with Mussa-el-Darkui on his disastrous expedition against Abd-el-Kader, and to him the desert chief Avas indebted for his subsequent safety; for after the battle, in which the troops of the Emir Avere victorious, Mussa and the remnant of his force Avere conducted to the gates of the desert by his guide, avIio, having a thorough knoAvledge of the mountain-passes, Avas enabled to lead the flying Arabs by a Avay which precluded pursuit on the part of the victor. t CAMEL-DRIVERS. 11 Behind the three guides follovred about twenty Arabs or Mozabites, each mounted on a camel and armed with a gun of French manufacture. They were dark, fierce-looking men, the deeply-scarred faces of many of them bearing ample testimony to the nature of the contests in Avhich they had at one time or other been engaged.

These men constituted the adA-ance-guard of the caravan. Immediately behind them folloAved the equipage-train, consisting of a number of camels and dromedaries carrying the baggage, together Avith some Mozabite Avomen. On all journeys of this kind it is the duty of the Avomen, at every halt for the night, to attend to the preparation of the evening meal. The Avomen accompanying our caravan were, hoAvever, far from interesting; and even if I had never before seen a Moorish or Arab female, the external appearance of these Avould have failed to excite my curiosity. They Avere packed among the furniture on the camels' backs, giving signs of life only when the animals stopped to be unloaded for the night. By the side of the baggage-camels Avalked several Soudan negroes. These Avere the drivers, whose duty it is to load the camels in the morning, Avalk at their side during the march, unload them in the evening, and Avatch them Avhile at pasture.

These negro camel-drivers lead a Avretched life ; for, in addition to their hard work, their toilsome journey- BONES IN THE DESERT. ings through the sand by the side of the animals they are never allowed to mount, and their scanty food, they find very little time for repose after the fatigues of the day. Should Aveariness or sickness overpower them, so as to render them unable to keep up with the caravan, their doom is sealed : the poor creatures are left alone in the desert, and die of starvation, all that remains of them in a short time being the bleached skeletons, the flesh haA-ing been devoured by the jackals and hyenas. These sad memorials are found scattered all along the course of travel in the desert, and serve the purpose to which milestones are applied in civilized countries. Nor are the camel-drivers the only ones liable to this fate : any traveller who, from Avhat ever cause, falls back and loses sight of the caraAran, is very likely to find his last resting-place on the burning sands of the Sahara.

Frequently small mounds of bones — both of the human species and of the loAver orders of animals — are found piled up at regular intervals, placed there by some tribe or caravan to serve as land marks, or to indicate the route to or distance from a certain pasture or watering-place. Often a skull or hip-bone is met with, bearing in red an Arabic inscription, giving the name ofthe chief of an Arab or Bedouin tribe, Avith the date of their passing the spot, the name of the place Avhence they came, and that of their destination. After the baggage-animals followed ten mounted THE LITTER. 13 camels, Avhose riders, all young, resolute-looking men, were armed with long muskets and seemed to be in readiness to repel any attack on the part of the Avandering hordes of the desert. Not very far from these, mounted on dromedaries, rode four Arabs, near relations of the Taleb; while immediately behind them came the most interesting part of the caravan.

This was a litter, carried by two camels, one in front and one behind. The litter itself very much resembled a comfortable European bedstead, and the breeze which noAv and then stirred the curtains that sur rounded it disclosed the presence of a woman. Close to the camels that bore the litter Avalked a Soudan negro, Avhose duty it was to Avatch every step ; Avhile at its side, mounted on a splendid dromedary, rode the Taleb of Ghardaia, the chief of the caravan. On the opposite side of the litter Avas another camel, Avith a richly-ornamented cover ing, bearing on its back a sort of canopy, the cur tains of which hung loosely doAvn and by their constant motion served to form a breeze to fan the occupant. This occupant was Zelma, the slave of Deborah. At a respectful distance behind these three fol loAved about fifty armed Arabs, mounted on dromedaries.

In their midst they led tAvo horses, — the only ones in the caravan. These Avere a present from Madame Ibrahim to Deborah. KnoAving the Arab girl's passion for equestrianism, her friend madame Ibrahim's presents. 14 had provided these for her special use Avhen far aAvay from civilized life. But this Avas not the only gift by which the Avife of Ibrahim had mani fested her affection. All such articles as would serve in some slight degree to compensate for the absence of that society to Avhich Deborah had been accustomed at Tlemcen — a set of furniture of French workmanship, the toilet articles so necessary to the comfort of a beautiful Avoman, a small library of choice French novels, dresses such as are Avorn b}' European ladies, in fact, Avhatever Avould be required to transform a desert-tent into a fashion able European boudoir — had been proA'ided by the thoughtful friendship of Madame Ibrahim.

Our fifty camels, in addition to this outfit, carried many articles Avhich the brother of Deborah had bought for her comfort. Her AA-ondrous beauty, her grace and education, were sufficient to make her brother proud of her; and he evidently felt that he had a poAverful tool in his hands AA-hich sooner or later he might use to his or her advan tage among his oavii people. From the moment that this precious charge was placed in his hands, he Avatched oArer her with an argus eye, riding con stantly at her side, ministering to all her AA-ants in person, and seemingly jealous even of the friendship she manifested for her companion the slave Zelma. After the baggage-camels came the herds of sheep and goats, behind which folloAved about twenty REAR-GUARD. Mozabites, who formed the rear-guard, and whose duty it was to bring up the stragglers and stray camels.

The only persons not in some way con nected with the Taleb Avere myself and my servant Yussuf, who constantly rode by my side, and avIio was the only one with whom up to this time I had exchanged more than a dozen words.

Chapter II

the b'ni mozab. THE early history of the most important of the inhabitants of the Sahara, the B'ni Mozab, is veiled in the mist of tradition. Herodotus, Sal lust, Pliny, and Dr. Shaw all differ in regard to the antiquity of this race. The first-named Avriter divides the inhabitants of Africa into four races, and calls the Libyans and Ethiopians the aboriginal races, AArhile the Phœnicians and Greeks he considers as foreign settlers, thus, apparently, forgetting the principal race, the Arab, to which belongs the entire nomad population of Northern Africa. The Goetuli are placed by Sallust, more cor rectly, in the southern portion of the Sahara ; while Pliny and Ptolemy rank the Libyans of Herodotus among the Berbers or Kabyls, the Mozab, Waregla, and the inhabitants of the Wed R'hin chain of the oasis.

Still, the Mozab are very distinct from the Kabyls, not only in language, but in manners, customs, and dress. The Kabyls, it is iioav generally believed, are descendants of the ancient Numidians, who were driven into the mountain-fastnesses by successive LINEAGE OF THE MOZABITES. conquests. They are in general much taller than the B'ni Mozab ; their lips are not so thick, their cheek-bones are more prominent, their eyes are more closely set, and the nose is larger and more aquiline. While among the B'ni Mozab, I heard from them selves several theories as to their ancestry. Some think they are the descendants of a Berber sect of the Atlas, who separated from their parental stem on account of a schism from the faith of Moham med, and settled in the Sahara, in a region ren dered impregnable by its isolation and barrenness.

The Jewish historians say that the B'ni Mozab are lineal descendants of the Biblical Moabites, of whom the greater part migrated to the Avest, and that they speak a dialect of the Hebrew. To me, however, their language seemed far more like a corrupted Arabic than like Hebrew. Others affirm that the name of their patriarch Avas Messeb, the brother of Hammam, and the four teenth in succession from Noah. They assert, also, that the Mozabites came originally from the north east coast of the Red Sea, but Avere obliged to leave Arabia on account of the hostility of the Wahabees. They do not claim that their patriarch Avas the nepheAv of Abraham, but merely that he was dis tantly related to him. The name of his father, they say, Avas Jabir ben nou Dzidin; i.e. "the light of the faith." 2* HISTORY OF THE MOZABITES.

During the early years of their history, they Avere constantly at Avar Avith the aborigines of Northern Africa, Avhom they designated as the Hharrar and Hh'mein ; but they are unable to give any accurate data of their settlement. All that seems certain is that for several centuries they remained in Upper Egypt, gradually migrating thence to Morocco. At the time of their emigration, one portion settled in the island of Djerbi, lying between Tunis and Tripoli ; and here they are still to be found in small numbers. Another portion pushed on to the frontiers of Oran and Morocco, Avhere they formed a permanent settlement under a king named Lucian Fleah, Avhom they called " Baba," from the Hebrew "Abba" ("father"), and whose dynasty ruled for several generations. " Baba" among the present B'ni Mozab is equi valent to the " Sidi" of the Arabs, or the "Cid" of the old Spanish chroniclers.

We begin to have positive dates concerning the B'ni Mozab about the year 970, Avhen they first settled at Waregla and to the south of the desert country. They did not, hoAvever, remain long at that place ; for the aboriginal Wareglans, their former allies, actuated by religious prejudice and sectarian jealousy, drove them into exile once more, and again they became nomads. For many years after this, they searched in va rious directions for a thoroughly isolated country, RELIGIOUS PECULIARITIES. Avhere they might be secure against molestation by their enemies. After many Avanderings, they dis covered a spring in the raAdne noAv knoAvn by the name of Wed M'zab, and there they settled, busying themselves at once in sinking Avells and planting date-trees. Hitherto they had been living in duars and tents ; and it was not until the year 1012, Hegira 402, that El Al's, the first city, Avas founded.

The present city of Ghardaia came into existence some forty years afterwards. Here they have remained unmolested for nearly eight hundred and fifty years, — a result due partly to the isolation and barrenness of that part of the desert which they inhabit, partly to the rugged character of the mountains Avhich form natural breastAvorks to protect them against the attacks of Arab goums, or cavalry. The B'ni Mozab, although Mohammedans, are held in detestation by the Arabs, on account of their religious schism, the difference being in the semmda, or religious practice. In their discipline they are very strict : all sin is held in detestation ; and no man Avho has died in a state of sin can hope to be pardoned hereafter. Like the JeAvs, they wear a peculiar dress for prayer. Every thing that savors of luxury or superfluity is forbidden ; Avhence, probably, their prohibition of tobacco, snuff, and coffee.

By the rest of the tribes that populate Africa, MOZABITE CHARACTER. the B'ni Mozab are termed Khramsia, or the fifths, on account of their belonging to the sect of the assassin of Ali. Among the Mozabites there is no Khouan, or religious order ; nor do they tolerate the presence of dervishes. They have, however, an established order of " Talba," or priesthood, whose life is very austere, and whose sole support comes from the scanty revenues of their mosques. In general, the character of the people is mild and gentle, entirely distinct from that of the Arabs; nor have they any of the Ishmaelite in face, habit, or language. They resemble the Jews much more closely, but still are very different from them in many respects. They are fruit^buyers and fruit-sellers, live quietly, profess a dislike to Bedouin Avildness, are unini passioned, calculating, money-loving, shreAvd, and careful.

The use of coffee and tobacco is forbidden by their creed ; but they never refuse it when offered to them by a stranger, nor will they decline to smoke the pipe when they are not likely to be detected. They are averse to warfare, never carrying arms except Avhen on the highway, and then only for self-defence. The Mozabites travel everyAvhere, penetrating to the remotest parts of the desert, and being met with from Timbuctoo to Asia Minor, serving in all GOVERNMENT. sorts of capacities, connected Avith every caravan in Africa, from its central and unknoAvn regions to Morocco, Tunis, Algiers, and Egypt. Their form of government is republican, Avith a considerable infusion of theocracy. Their young men are nearly all abroad, but almost invariably return with a competency in their old age to their barren but cherished native home.

In their social intercourse they are cold and re served. Integrity is the characteristic feature of their commerce, truthfulness marks their conversa tion, and morality their domestic life. What has here been said about the B'ni Mozab will suffice to give the reader a superficial acquaint ance with the people in AA'hose company I Avas tra velling. Farther on in my narrative an opportunity will be afforded to see more of them, their govern ment, social life, and domestic habits.

Chapter III. The Gate Of The Desert

WE had already travelled for two days, and nothing worthy of note had occurred. The journey was any thing but agreeable. My inter course thus far with my fellow-travellers had been so limited that I could form no definite opinion regarding them. They ansAvered all my questions politely, and at every resting-place gave me my ration of meat, Avater, and kuskuska in such abundance that my boy Yussuf could afford to earn a reputation for generosity by distributing the remainder among the half-starved negroes. The cara< van resembled a funeral procession much more than it did the triumphal march Avhich it really Avas. During these two days of our journey the Taleb had hardly exchanged a Avord with me ; Avhile as to those under his charge, Deborah and Zelma, I had not more than caught a glimpse of them.

I Avas thus as thoroughly isolated as if I had been travelling alone, having no one to talk to but my boy Yussuf. Among those composing our retinue Avas one Avhom I omitted to mention in my detailed state- JUANETTE. 23 ment of the members of the caravan, in the former chapter. This was Juanette, the ser\-ant>maid of Deborah, avIio for nearly three years had been at tached to her household. She Avas born in Algiers, of French parents, and therefore was looked upon as a European; so that she and I Avere the only persons in the caravan who did not belong to the Mozabite tribe. My acquaintance with her com menced on this day, as, while she was preparing the meals for Deborah, she had sent me, by Yussuf, a portion of the dainties intended for her mistress ; for Avhich mark of attention I felt deeply grateful.

The reader may feel tempted to smile Avhen I state that this French girl, the servant of Deborah, — a person without any education and Avith very few personal attractions, — became, during this monotonous journey in the desert, my most confiden tial friend. Nay, to her I Avas indebted on one occasion for the preservation of my life, on my journey from Ghardaia to Morocco. It Avas, as I have said, the second day of our journey. The country through which Ave were passing Avas very slightly cultivated, although here and there was to be found a straggling settlement, Avhere the land seemed hardly to repay the labor of the husbandman. On the road Avhich we traversed, leading toAvards the nortliAvest, Ave met Avith but two villages, which Avere inhabited chiefly by Arabs, a feAV Spaniards constituting the residue of the popula- BOAR-HUNT. tion.

Besides these, we saw some isolated houses; and in the distance I could discern indications of European settlements. At the time of my journey, the conquest having been so recent, foreign emigra tion had made very little progress in the vicinity of Tlemcen. On our first day's journey we pitched our tents at about eleven o'clock, the Taleb having resolved to travel in the morning, rest during the scorch ing heat of the day, and resume the march when the shades of evening had rendered the air cool and refreshing. During the halt, which lasted from eleven a.m. till five p.m., I spent some hours in rambling about the hills in the neighborhood of our camp, being partially protected from the burning rays of the sun by the dAvarf-palm and lentisk, Avhich grows to the height of six feet. Among the windings of these hills I came upon a small Arab village.

The gumbis were all of straw, and the soil around seemed to be cultivated in patches of from two to three acres. The in habitants of this village suffered great inconve nience from the ravages of the Avild boars, which, making their lairs in the uncleared brusliAvood, generally destroyed their crops Avhile green. As it was a Friday, I had the opportunity of Avitnessing a grand Avild-boar hunt. This day is the Sabbath of the Arab, and the villagers had, on this occasion, dedicated it to the chase. BOAR-HUNT. Having formed a cordon of beaters, they drove the boars into a gradually decreasing space, until finally the animals broke cover, and afforded the chance of a shot to those who had come provided A\Tith firearms. During the feAV hours that I witnessed the sport, six wild boars Avere killed.

The Arab hunters do not eat the flesh of this animal : therefore the product of the day's hunt was sold to the European settlers in the neighbor hood. I purchased a couple of steaks, Avhich I conveyed to my tent, in anticipation of a dainty supper, superintending the culinary operation in person. Although my appetite Avas somewhat sharpened after my day's ramble, my hopes Avere doomed to disappointment, OAving partly to the Avant of proper ingredients wherewith to spice my repast, and partly to the extreme toughness of the flesh, Avhich I found to be similar in all respects to that of the European boar. That night I slept Avell : my bedstead, which served me during my entire journey, Avas of my OAvn invention, prompted thereto by stern necessity. I had never before shoAAm much mechanical talent ; but I think I may say that this contriA-ance disphayed considerable ingenuity.

Some four years later, I found a similar inven tion, A-ery slightly modified, patented in the United States. Ere leaving Tlemcen, I had devoted con siderable thought and time to the preparation of this substitute for the bedstead of civilized countries ; PORTABLE BEDSTEAD. for, although I could endure fatigue, I had found that, in travelling, a comfortable night's rest was absolutely required to enable me to endure the wear and tear of the following day. I shall endeavor to give my reader an idea of this my first attempt at mechanical construction. The framework of the bedstead consisted of eight poles, four of Avhich formed the posts, Avhile the remaining four, placed transversely, served as braces. These were all cut from a wood as hard as lignum-vitæ, and, although very slight in appearance, Avere strong enough to support my weight.

Upon these transverse poles was stretched a tanned hide attached by rings, somewhat in the manner of a hammock. The posts passed through glass saucers placed midway betAveen the trans verse poles and the floor, and so constructed as to hold water, Avith Avhich they were filled Avhen the bedstead Avas in use, to prevent the Avhite ants or other insects from craAvling up and disturbing my rest. The AA-hole apparatus could be arranged in five minutes, and in as short a space of time be again rolled up, strapped and packed in readiness for the march. The four posts served also to sup port the curtain, which Avas made of German chintz ; and I can assure my readers that on this simply-constructed bedstead I slept more soundly and comfortably in the Sahara than ever I did in after-years on the luxurious couches of the sump tuous hotels of Europe and America, DISTASTEFUL SILENCE.

On the morning ofthe second day of our journey, I rose early, and went, with a party of the B'ni Mozab, to a little spring, to fill our bags Avith a supply of fresh Avater. Upon returning to the camp, I found my companions stretched on the ground, engaged in their morning prayer; and I could not help admiring the fidelity to their religious observances Avhich this early devotion displayed. Soon the caravan was on the march, Avith pro mise of the same monotony as had characterized the journey of the preceding day. I began to think the B'ni Mozab must be a very quiet people. Sometimes Ave traA'elled an hour Avithout any human sounds being heard save those made by the Soudan negroes as they urged their camels to greater speed. The women, as soon as they Avere in their saddles on the camels' backs, fell asleep ; Avhile the men rarely exchanged a AA-ord with each other, much less with me.