Muraviev's Journey to Khiva through the Turcoman Country, 1819-20. Translated from the Russian, 1824, by P. Strahl ... and from the German, 1871, by ... W. S. A. Lockhart

Front matter

MUEAVIEV'S JOUENEY TO K H ITA THROUGH THE TUECOMAN COUNTBY, 1819-SO. TRANSLATED FROM THE RUSSIAN (1824) BY FHILIPP STRAHL, PH DOC : &C, BONN ; AND FROM THE GERMAN (1871) BY CAPTAIN W. S. L LOCKHART, F.R.G.S. CALCUTTA: PRINTED AT THE FOREIGN DEPARTMENT PRESS, COUNCIL HOUSE STREET. 1871. IVLTJIi^V^EVS JOUENET TO KHIVÆ THROUGH THE TUECOMAN COUNTEY, 1819-20. TRANSLATED FROM THE RUSSIAN (1824) BY PHILIPP STRAHL, PH DOC : &C, BONN ; AND FROM THE GERMAN (1871) BY CAPTAIN W. S. A. LOCKHART, F.R.G.S. CALCUTTA: PRINTED AT THE FOREIGN DEPARTMENT PRESS, COUNCIL HOUSE STREET. 1871. AUTHOR'S

Preface

. Alexis Petrovitsh Jermalof, Military Governor of Georgia, General of Infantry in the Russian Imperial Ser vice, &c, &c, conceived the project of sending an expedition to the Eastern Coast of the Caspian Sea, in order to establish friendly relations with the nomadic Turcomans inhabiting that district. His desire was also to found a harbour on the same coast, where Russian merchantmen could find a safe anchor age, and land their cargoes in security : the harbour to be protected by a small fortified work. Peter the Great had originally entertained this scheme as part of his grand project of establishing a direct and per manent trade with India through the great Steppe commonly called Tartary, a project defeated by the treachery of the Khivans, who put Prince Bekovitsh and all the troops he had led into their territory to the sword.

This people, con trary to treaty and to their most solemn guarantees, took him prisoner, and, on the pretence that sufficient provisions were not procurable for his lai-ge army, compelled him to distribute his force among the different villages, which enabled them to butcher the Prince and destroy his troops in detail. The three remaining Russian detachments at Mangush lak, Alexander Bay, and Krasnavoda were now forced to take to their ships and return to Astraccan, abandoning the fortifications they had already commenced. The unhappy fate of Prince Bekovitsh taught us a lesson of Khivan faithlessness and blood-thirstiness, and since then all inter course between Russia and Khiva had ceased. The first step now to be taken for the furtherance of our scheme was to secure the alliance of the Turcomans.

The latter lead a wandering life, with their flocks and herds, on the eastern shore of the Caspian, ignoring all industrial pur suits and living by theft and robbery. They wage continual war with the Persians, a Avar which, fed by sect animosity, never slumbers but to burst forth again Avith fresh fury. It is true that in the year 1813 General Nicholas Feodorvitsh Ratishtsheff, then Military Governor of Georgia, sent a certain Derbent merchant, Ivan Muratoff, by birth an Armenian, to the Turcomans. This person, from former commercial connections with Astrabad, had made many acquaintances there. He communicated the Governor-Gene ral's proposals to Sultan Khan, who at that period exercised a kind of sovereignty over several Turcoman tribes, whom he had equipped for Avar and led several times to victory over the Persians.

Sultan Khan was rejoiced at the promise of support made him by the Russian Governor-General (probably hoping thereby to raise himself in time to supreme rule over the unruly Turcomans), and immediately sent General Ratishtsheff a deputation composed of Chiefs from the several tribes and the most eminent men of the nation, soli citing only a few privileges and the protection of the Russian Government. Unfortunately the Envoys (among them Kiat Aga, of whom frequent mention will be found in the follow ing pages) reached the Russian General's camp at Karabao* in Giyulistan at the moment when that officer was con cluding a treaty of peace with Abul Hossein Khan, the Shah of Persia's Plenipotentiary. The latter, aware how dangerous to Persia the Turcomans might become, once under Russian protection, demanded that Russia should enter into no negotiations with them.

The Governor yielded, and dismissed the Envoys with valuable presents. This dis appointment threw the Turcomans into great distress, and finding themselves unable to offer further resistance to Persia, they submitted and gave hostages. Those, however, who remained recusant retired either to Balkan Bay, Avhither the Persians could not pursue them, or fled to Khiva, and were welcomed by the present Ruler, Mahomed Ragim Khan (a sworn enemy to the Kajar dynasty). Sultan Khan Avas among the latter, and lives under the Khan's protection to the present day. To Major Ponomarev, Commandant of Elisa betopol, was entrusted the management of the Turcoman negotiations, I, as Staff Officer, making, in concert with him, a survey of the eastern coast of the Caspian. The additional duty allotted to me was to proceed alone to KhiAra, negotiate an alliance with the Khan, and furnish a description of the country and its inhabitants.

The entries in my diary were written secretly and in as succinct a style as possible. They were originally only intended as memoranda for my own perusal and that of a few intimate friends, but on my return home, finding so many desirous to hear about the country I had visited, and my adventures there, I determined to publish these rough notes. I only relate what happened to myself or came under my OAvn observation, and Avould remind the reader that it is no easy task for a foreigner to make his notes and record his thoughts in writing amongst a people in the highest degree suspicious. It Avas never my intention to write a book, or much now given briefly would have been elaborated, and much other matter condensed or omitted. If, in the course of this narrative, names frequently occur which appear of trivial im portance, I think I shall be forgiven when I explain that my object has been to assist any future Envoy who may be sent to the same country by giving him at the outset some insight into the circumstances and characters of the persons he may have to deal with. MURAVIEV.

Chapter I

Visit to tlie Turcoman inhabitants of the Eastern Coast of the Caspian Sea. On the 17th of June 1819 Alexis Petrovitsh Jermalof, the Commander-in-Chief in Georgia, made over to Major Ponomarev and myself all the necessary documents, and repaired to the Caucasian frontier, where the war with the Tchetshes demanded his presence. The Armenian Muratoff, Avho had already been among the Turcomans in the time of Nicholas Ratishtsheff, Avas to accompany us as interpreter. On the same day I made my preparations for the journey, and offered up fervent prayers for divine aid in the Tiflis * Cathedral. Major Ponomarev had a separate special commission. The gifts he took over were designed only for the Turcomans. Among the instructions which I received from the Governor, and to which I Avas strictly to adhere in my negotiations Avith the Turcomans and in Khiva, were the following :— " Your capacity for making yourself liked, as Avell as your acquaintance with the Tartar language, can be turned to good account.

Do not regard the arts of flattery from an European point of vieAV ; they are constantly used by Asiatics, and you need never fear of being too lavish in this respect. You will be able to make other useful researches, which a residence among those tribes Avill sug gest to you better than I can do, especially as the race you are going to is one regarding Avhich Ave haATe but scanty information. Your qualifications and your zeal give me good grounds to expect that this attempt to establish friendly relations Avith the Turcomans will not be a fruit less one, and that the account you will give them of our Government will open the way to future proceedings." On the 18th of June I left Tiflis, and reached the post of Sagala, Avhere just then lay a detachment of 250 Cossacks, Avho were proceeding on active service to Dag-i-stan against the Leksis. * Sir Robert Ker Porter (in bis Travels in Georgia, Persia, Sfc: London, 1821) states Tiflis to possess '(,084 houses and 18,000 inhabitants.

The niglit of the 19th I passed at Tausk. It rained terribly the Avhole day. On the 20th the heat was intolerable. Reached Elisa betopol (called by the natives Hansha), a very beautiful town, surrounded by gardens, and stayed there until the 1st of July, as Ponomarev's military business Avith the Commandant of the place could not be concluded before then. In front of the city, on the Tiflis road, stands an old fortress, which in the time of Prince Zizianow A\Tas occupied by the Khan Javot, whose guns are still to be seen on the towers. This fortress is now in ruins ; in its interior are the remains of some splendid stone buildings. It has secret subterranean passages, Avhich, however, have all either fallen in, or threaten to do so. These are said by the inhabitants to contain treasure brought in during the time of the siege.

The most precious treasures of the former Khan are also said to have been buried here in a garden outside the fortress, and to have been disinterred by the son of the murdered Khan Javot. This, hoAvever, is only report. Within the Avails of the fortress my attention was attracted by an enormous tree, measuring 27 feet in circumference. On the evening of the 1st Ave left Elisabetopol in a light cart, which broke doAvn on the road. This accident forced me to pass the night in the open, half way to Kurge, which I had hoped to reach. When the moon rose I started again, and reached Turgan on the night of the 2nd, the heat having been unbearable during the Avhole day. At Mingit shauer I crossed the Kur by a ferry. My way had hitherto lain through a barren steppe, relieved here and there by patches of salt marsh, but noAv the country quite changed its character.

The banks of the Kur are very beautiful, offering on either side a pleasing prospect of wood and garden, from Avhich peep the Armenian homesteads. To my front, as I left the river, lay a range of sterile hills, the radiation from Avhich greatly added to the heat ; but to the right stretched a vast plain, richly cultivated and popu lous, in the midst of Avhich Avere the ruins of the town of Arevsh.* Very early on the morning of the 3rd I left Turgan, and by night reached NeAV Shamakha, t formerly the residence of Mustapha, Khan of Shirwan. The Khan's * Arevsh. In Suimalov's Description of the Caspian, A.D. 1726, this town is called Arrash. f New Shamakha— Lat. 40° 34' N. predecessors had always made Old Shamakha their capital, but from the earliest days the majority of the people had settled in the fertile country around the site of the new toAAm.

Mustapha abandoned the capital of his ancestors, and built New Shamakha in order the better to overawe his subjects by his presence in their midst ; but the plain Avas at once deserted, the inhabitants betaking themselves to the mountains and settling at Fith, to which place the Khan Avas obliged to shift his residence. NeAV Shamakha is now only a Cossack station. The road ran for about four and a half miles through the flat country, and then over the precipitous hills separating Ne\v from Old Shamakha. This mountain road, although no thing to speak of in the Avay of length, was still so steep, that the horses were quite exhausted, and it was Avith great diffi culty that I reached the station by evening. What a glorious spectacle now rewarded my toils ! The rich champaign beneath me stretching away to the horizon ; the picturesque hills amongst Avhich I stood ; the numerous Armenian villages, some on the slopes, some in the holloAvs, surrounded on every side by sheaves of corn ; the husbandmen all busy at the harvest, — all these combined to make up a gorgeous and magnificent scene.

Apart from the picturesque, hoAvever, that fruitful plain is remarkable for the culture of silk-worms, Avhich is carried on to a great extent, especially in the neigh bourhood of Shamakha, and which brings Avealth and pros perity to the country. Old Shamakha,"" or Kognashahar (i.e., "old town"), presents an imposing appearance with its ruins, its baths, mosques, and palaces. Even the fortifications excite our admiration for the builders of this ancient capital. The Khan's castle stands on rising ground, A\*hich affords a fine vieAV of the town. The Post Office is established in a caravanserai of noble propor tions. At some distance from the fortress stands the citadel built by Lutra, a virgin Czarina, whose remains rest here. Some deep excavations Avithin the walls are said to mark the site of her tomb.

The common people believe that these cavities were ransacked by Mustapha in the hope of treasure, but that the spirit of Lutra frustrated his endeavours. On the 5th I started from Old Shamakha, and, passing tAvo staging places on the road, finally reached Glubokaya-balka, where I passed the night. This is only a Cossack post in the * Old Shamakha was sacked by the famous Nadir Shah in 1726. i middle of a barren and waterless steppe. The aspect of the country changes here, and the eye encounters a steppe studded Avith the ruins of towns and hamlets, only relieved by some hills, and at wide intervals by occasional patches of pasture land. On the following day I reached the Cossack post of Arbat, a well-built and regular fortress, where I overtook the cart Avith the presents AA'hich had left Elisabetopol before me.

On the 7th I reached Baku.* From the heights before the city I got a good view of the whole place, and of the sea and shipping. The toAvn is girt by a double A\rall, turreted and embrasured and furnished Avith guns. The interior is handsome and extensive, but the bald hills without the walls have an unpleasing appearance. The scarcity of Avood and water in the neighbourhood is a great drawback to its value as a fortress, and the situation of the place generally is bad. The streets of Baku are narroAV * the buildings high and not bad-looking : the toAvn possesses a numerous population, a fair market, and excellent caravanserais, and it has an important trade with Astraccan. Ship-building goes on in the port, but the craft ply only along the coast, and do not go further than Ghilan. A lofty toAver stands on the shore, known as the "Maiden Tower," a name which it owes to the following tragical story : — In ancient times a Governor of Baku fell in love Avith his own daughter, and desired to place her in the position of his wife.

For long the girl resisted his importunities, but at last consented, making it a condition of her com pliance that her father should build a high tower for her on the sea beach, wherein she might hide her shame. The toAver was quickly built, and the daughter, enticing her father to the topmost pinnacle on the pretence of showing him the height, seized her opportunity as he bent to gaze beneath, and pushed him over the parapet, flinging herself after him into the sea. We found the two (2) ships which had been equipped for us lying in port all ready, so we laid in necessaries and Avent on board, taking with us one officer and thirty men from the Baku garrison. The vessels were the Corvette Kasan, 18 Guns, under Lieutenant Bassargin, which had arrived from Astraccan the year before (1818), and the Merchant sloop St. Polikarp, under Lieutenant Ostrolopov.

This last was not armed, being only intended as a transport for the troops and spare baggage. The naval officials on board the * Baku, compounded from the Persian words jO wind, and j£ a street. corvette were as follows : — Lieutenant Bassargin, tAvo sub officers, Juriev and Ivanov, the Chaplain, the Surgeon, For mizin, Lieutenant Linitzki of the Artillery, and the Pilot and Master. The force, all told, amounted to 160 men. On the evening of the 8th we accepted the invitation of the ship's officers, and went on shore to a small house called the " Sea Bath *" on our Avay we passed the ruins of the great caravanserai lying at a distance of seven miles from the shore and completely submerged, with the exception of a feAV turrets rising above the surface. It is unknown hoAv or when this building sank into the sea, but it is most likely the result of an earthquake.

At this point there is a depth of about 18- feet, and it is noticed that every 13 years important changes take place on this part of the coast, the sea some times receding from, and sometimes encroaching on, the land. The whole neighbourhood is well worthy of attention both on account of the naphtha which it produces and the mighty ruins which lie scattered on every side and invite historical research. On the 17th of July we went on board the corvette again, and at 6 o'clock on the following evening (18th) weighed anchor, and stood for the Island of Sara, whither the transport had preceded us on the 15th. At first we had a good breeze, but it fell in the night, and we spent the whole of the next day in tacking without making any perceptible progress. On the night of the 20th there fell a dead calm, and we lay motionless for two hours and a half, but at day break we sighted Sara, and by noon we moored close by the island.

This island is six miles in length, in form a crescent, its beach shelly, and its whole surface covered with sedge and rushes, except here and there where Russian squatters have planted a few osiers. In former days all the Avater Avas brackish in the wells here, but the Russians introduced wooden linings for the latter, and, by continually emptying and clearing them, managed to obtain a supply of fresh water. The transport now made sail for the fortress of Lenko ran to take in wood. The distance from Sara is about 12 miles. We lay at anchor until the 24th, and all this time it rained Avithout ceasing. On the 24th, at 7 a.m., we weighed, with a good breeze from N.E., Avhich lasted till midnight, and we Avere sanguine of sighting the Turcoman coast on the following day, when suddenly the Avind died away, and we hardly made 1^ knots an hour.

This state of things lasted for two whole days — no breeze and torrents of rain ; and it was not until the evening of the third day that the sky cleared. We wished to steer on the so-called " Silver Hill " of which we had heard, but none of the creAV Avere acquainted with the coast. At last the Turcoman land came in vieAV, and Ave recog nised the Ak-Tapa (white hill), which runs from the coast in a north-easterly direction. It is of a considerable length, and diminishes in height as it approaches the sea. We anchored in 4^ fathoms at a distance of 5-^ miles from the shore, and, on searching the beach with our telescopes, made out some " Kibitks " (Turcoman carts). It was accordingly resolved that I should land next morning and reconnoitre the country, while Petrovitsh, the Interpreter, endeavoured to establish intercourse between us and the inhabitants.

The 12-oared long-boat Avas therefore loAvered from the corvette and armed Avith a 12-pounder and two falconets. The party altogether numbered 24 men, six of whom carried muskets, and as we counted on returning the same evening, we only took provisions and water for the day. After a pull of an hour and a half we came within 120 yards of the beach, and Avere obliged to anchor, as there was not sufficient Avater to admit of our getting closer in ; so we got on land Avith only our arms and clothes. Forty yards from the Avater line were a lot of mounds, evidently thrown up by the action of the Avind on the sand, and covered with bushes. I ascended one of these, and discovered, by means of my telescope, that the Ak-Tapa, instead of being an isolated hill, Avas a great moun tain, Avhich must be connected Avith some other chain.

It was about eight miles distant, and seemed to be so entirely cut off by Avater from the place where I stood, that I imagined myself to be on a detached island. * At first I wished to explore towards the north, in order to discover the bay Avhere the Turcomans conceal their " Kirshimas " t (boats), but Dobritsch, the artillery officer, Petrovitsh, and a sailor, called Agejeve, who had been here * I found out afterwards that the apparent sea was only a salt steppe or a dry lake, covered with crystallized salt, which, shining through the moving vapours formed by the heat, had quite the appearance of water from a distance. f Kirshima. This word is derived from the Turkish Kiriji, i.e., a flat bottomed boat. before, advised me to try to southAvard instead, more in the direction of Astrabad ; and I acted on their advice, having further a hope of coming on a river by so doing.

I accordingly went along the beach with four sailors and Petrovitsh, Avhilst the rest of the party in the long-boat kept up with us. Before starting we bored for water, but found it quite salt and undrinkable. We went steadily along the shore for 11 miles, found the traces of camels, horses, and bare-footed men, and at last a post Avith a mark on it, among the bushes, which made me think that the Turcoman carts might be concealed there. I craAvled to the place through the under groAvth, but found only a sand hill with a lot of dry brush wood on it, in the midst of which the post had been stuck up. Wearied and disappointed, I determined at 3 p.m. to go back to the corvette, leaving Petrovitsh on shore to try and find out some of the inhabitants. We were carrying out this plan, Avhen suddenly a strong gale got up from seaward, and when only 1,500 paces away from land, we found we could make no head against it ; the waves broke over us, and Juriev advised that we should put back.

This storm caused me great anxiety, for we were Avithout provisions and water, and it seemed quite possible that it might continue to blow for a Aveek ; and the chance of a sudden attack from the Turcomans gave me another ground for uneasiness. Resolved to make the best of it, I landed the two falconets and occupied a couple of hillocks, throAving round the bivouac a chain of sentries, whom Juriev and I visited alternately from time to time during the night. We also lit a huge fire to indicate our Avhereabouts to the corvette. The fine, blinding dust which A\*as blown about caused great annoyance to us all. I dug for fresh water here, but unsuccessfully, the water we got at being brackish and unfit for drinking purposes. In the evening Petrovitsh came in with the news that he had not found a living creature in the neighbourhood, so, exhausted with fatigue and thirst, we passed a most wretched night in the sand.

Next day (30th) our situation became more critical every hour ; the storm raged with increasing fury, the provisions came to an end, and our thirst became more and more insufferable, so much so, that some of the men dipped their last biscuits in the sea-water, hoping thereby to allay their dreadful pangs, — we were, indeed, at the last extremity, and immediate action became imperative ; so I resolved on penetrating further into the steppe, to the hills visible in the distance, in the hope of discovering some Turcoman habitations (" Yurts " as they are called), or, at any rate, striking fresh Avater. I therefore directed Juriev to shift our position to a point nearer the sea and to make it more compact, posting only one look-out party during the day. I was on the point of starting, when of a sudden the long-boat began to sink ; we all rushed into the sea, threAV everything overboard, and with great difficulty managed to haul the boat up on to the beach, when we found she had sprung a leak, but not of a very serious nature.

We now armed and set out for the opposite edge of the steppe, the party consisting of the artillery officer, Petrovitsh, myself, four sailors, and two pioneers. For upwards of an hour Ave waded through heavy sand, and were quite worn out, Avhen suddenly Ave sank to the knee in a black bog, which formed the centre of a great dried up salt lake. Here I had bitter experience of the deceitful ness of the famous "mirage," for this dry salt lake had from afar the appearance of a piece of water, with people on the banks * but Avhen we reached it, lo ! the water was nowhere, and the men had turned into bushes, and instead of plunging into a cold stream, Ave found ourselves stuck in a morass ! We had to retrace our steps, and on the way back I dug for water in three different places, but found it all brackish.

I may mention that in this search I employed a means which I had heard of in Persia by which time is saved : this is simply to fire doAvn the hole one has dug, which brings the water into it immediately. The plan Avas perfectly successful, in so far as obtaining water Avent, but it unfortunately could not alter the quality of the same. Worn out and disappointed, I noAv returned to my party, and determined not to make any further attempts, but to trust to the storm's going down. At last the Aveather improved, and we resolved to despatch the sub-officer and 12 sailors to the corvette in the long-boat. When the moon rose the long-boat put off. I sent a note by it to Ponomarev describing in a feAv words our situation, begging him for help, and telling him that, in the event of any mishap, we should make for Astrabad on foot.

By noon (31st) the long-boat returned with but a small supply of provisions and a letter from Ponomarev entreating us to return. Meanwhile the sea had gone doAvn, so we embarked, and in two or three hours reached the corvette in safety. I took the latitude, and found that Ave Avere in 37°24'37"N. According to Count Voinovitsh's map * this Avould place us directly opposite the " White Hill," but the ordinary ship's chart placed us far to the north of this point, so I came to the conclusion that the hill before us was the " Green Hill." Strengthened in this opinion by the circumstance that the Astrabad mountain chain was not in sight, Ave made up our minds to try for the " White Hill " further south. In the evening we weighed anchor, but the Avind was unfavourable, and Ave made little progress.

On Sunday morning (August 1st) we Avere told that three Turcoman craft Avere in vieAV near the shore. We Avent on deck and made out 10 boats ; they had sails set, and Avere steering northwards. We were very anxious to pick up at any rate one of the number, and accordingly fired a gun as a signal, but they did not understand it, and made all sail aAvay from us. We noAv fired two rounds at them, but they were out of range, so we sent a boat in pursuit Avith an armed party, and Petrovitsh among them. An attempt Avas made to cut off the last " Kirshime," but when the creAV saAV their situation, they promptly ran her ashore and fled into the bush, their number being 5 men and 3 women. Our party likeAvise landed and gave chase. Petrovitsh managed to stop one of the men and assure him that we had no hostile intentions, but had come only Avith friendly designs.

On this they all came out of their hiding-place and begged for mercy. We again assured them they had nothing to fear from us, and then let them all go, except the owner of the boat, Avho Avas an old man of sixty, and held in great respect by his countrymen. His name was Dowlat Ali. In spite of all our caresses and friendly assurances he Avould not believe us, but looked on himself as a captive, and seemed by his doAvncast bearing to expect a terrible fate. From his replies to our interrogations it appeared that we really had been opposite the " White Hill," and that the " Sil ver Hill " t lay somewhat to the south. The " Yurts " of these Turcomans are situated betAveen the tA\*o above-mentioned hills, on the sea-coast. The place is called Hassan Kuli, and * Journal of Count Voinovitsh's Expedition to the Caspian in 1781-82: Moscow, 1810. f The Silver Hill received its name from the Tnrcomans (by whom it is called Gumish Tapa) on account of the silver coins they frequently used to find in earthen vessels among the ruins.

The coins were about the size of a shilling, and as the natives could not decipher the superscription, they put them down to Alexander the Great's era. The bricks 1J' x 2" of these ruins have for long been an article of trade between the Turcomans and Persia. — Stkahl. o here dwells the elder Kiat Aga,* who had gone as Envoy to General Ratishtsheff as far back as 1813. The Turcomans graze their herds on the " Silver Hill," and although it is at a pretty good distance off, it is still their favourite resort, being convenient for their boats, on which their entire trade depends. Their water-supply they obtain from the river "Giurgen- Jai," t Avhich falls into the sea by the Silver Hill, and flows about half a day's ride from their village. It is a whole day's ride from the Giurgen-Jai to Astrabad.