A Companion and useful guide to the beauties of Scotland, to the Lakes of Westmoreland, Cumberland, and Lancashire; and to the curiosities of the district of Craven, etc. (A Companion and useful guide to the beauties in the Western Highlands of Scotland, and in the Hebrides, etc.)

Front matter

A COMPANION AND USEFUL GUIDE TO THE BEAUTIES IN THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND, AND IN THE HEBRIDES. TO WHICH IS ADDED, A DESCRIPTION OF PART OF THE MAIN LAND OF SCOTLAND, AND OF THE ISLES OF MULL, ULVA, STAFFA, I-COLUMBKILL, TIRII, COLL, EIGG, SKYE, RAZA, AND SCALPA. BY THE HON. MRS. MURRAY, OF KENSINGTON. VOL. II. THE SECOND EDITION. LONDON: PRINTED BY Vt. BULMER AND CO. CLE VÆ1 AN D-ROW, FOR THE AUTHOR ; SOLD BY G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL : AND BY BELL AND BRADFUTE, EDINBURGH. 1805. [Price Ten Shillings and Sixpence.]

ADVERTISEMENT.

TO THE READER, PREFIXED TO VOL. I. I His Guide points out to the Traveller what is worth noticing in his Tour, with the distances from place to place ; mentions the Inns on the road, whether good or lad; also what state the Roads are in ; and informs him of those fit for a carriage, and those where it cannot go, with safety. In these respects, the present Work differs from any other Publication of the hind: for no writer of Tours has hitherto taken the trouble of ascertaining what may be seen, worthy of notice, in the course of a Travel ler's journey : and it very often happens that he passes within a mile, or less, of very great Natural Beauties, without either knowing or having heard of them ; and the country people seldom or ever name to strangers what they think nothing of; because, seeing them every day, they regard them not as objects of admiration. v. TO THE MANAGERS OF THE LITERARY REVIEWS.

Chapter I

Relic of Saint Fillan, and its Miracle at the Battle of Bannock Burn. — Scenery between Dalmalie and Oban. —Killchurn Castle. — Disaster of a Gentleman on the Peak of Cruchan. — Description of the Cascade at Connel Ferry. — Dunstaffnage Castle. — Anecdote of the Effect of an Echo near that Castle. p. 113

Chapter II

Anecdotes of English Parties while at Oban. — Description of the Scenery on sailing out of Oban Bay. — The Lady on the Rock — M'Lean Duart 's Lamentation for the pretended Loss of her, and its Consequences. — Ardtorinish Castle, and the large Key. — Effect of the Wind on a Cascade. — Hall of Shells. — Voyage from Ardtorinish to Aros. p. contents.

Chapter III

Picture of the Outset. — Description of the Scenery between Aros and Torloisk. — Voyage from Torloisk ti Staffa. — The Etymology of Staffa, and its different names. — The Boat Cave, and the Effect of the first View of Fingal's Cave. p. 147

Chapter IV

.Continuation of the Description of Staffa. — Buochaile Isle, (Herdsman.) — Clam for Scollop] Shell Cave, and bending Pillars. — Beautiful Crystals peculiar tt Staffa. p. 16 1

Chapter V

Anecdotes of a Party from Bunessain to Staffa ; als» from Torloisk to Staffa. — How Stnffa was first noticed as an Island of curiosity, by whom, and when. — Mr. Pennant. — Sir Joseph Banks. — Dr. Johnson. — Mr. Leach. — Anecdote of a Man who fancied he could roiu or sail intirely under Staffa ; also relative to the Thunder Cave. — Naive Exclamation of a Highland Girl, on looking at Staffa for thc first Time. p. 177

Chapter VI

The Hill Road from Torloisk to Aros. — Ride from Aros to Ach-na-craig. — Anecdote of Beaux and Ponies. — Journey from Ach-na-craig towards Ross in Mull. — Anecdote of Giants, and Euen with two Heads. — Hospitality at Penny Cross. — Read to Bunessain extremely dangerous, p. 186

Chapter VII

Ride to the Point of Ross, opposite to I-Ona. — A Description of the Sound of I-Cohimbkill, Port-acontents. XIII churaich, and the Toivn and Ruins on I-Ona. — His tory of Saint Columba, and his Friend Oran. — Legend relative to the Monastery. — Druidical Superstition respecting the Dead. — Opinion of Second-sight ex ploded. T). 208

Chapter VIII

Population and Morals in I-Ona — its Extent and Produce. — Health ct.V Occupations of the Inhabitants.— Anecdote of a Man above One Hundred Tears old. — Of Dress. — Voyage from I-Ona to Bunessain. p. 224

Chapter IX

Of Mull, its Extent, and Geography. — Manners of former and present Times Anecdote of a Physician.-— Of Bards, and Sceanachaidhs. (Historians.) — Ossian. — A Tale from the Erse. — Mull Weddings and Feasts. . — Highland Burials. — Anecdote of a Corpse. — Price of Provisions, Cattle, and Sheep. — Exports. — The want of Churches and Inns. — Beneficence of lhe Duke of Argyle. ( p. 234

Chapter X

Voyage from Ross to Loch Buy. — Description" of Inimore. — Bein-an-gore. — Remarkable instance of a Highlander s Sense of Honour in the dreadful Leap and Catastrophe of Godfrey. — Fine Arches of Rock at Inimore. — The Nun's Cave. — Carsaig. — Moy Castle, and the Scenery around it, at the Head of Loch Buy. — Journey from Aloy to Ach-na-craig. p. 256

Chapter XI

Departure from Ach-na-craig — Honesty of the Highlanders vindicated. — Visit to the dangerous Gulf of CONTENTS. Coire Vreaikain, and Description of it. — Return t* Esdale. p. 272

Chapter XII

Dunolly Castle described. — Legend of Second Sight. — Highland Superstition. — Brunies. — Green Maids. — Berigonium. — Castle of Bercaldain. — Picturesque situation of Airds House. — Port Appin. — Island of Lismore. — Ruin of an ancient Casiie. — Stone Chair of a Saint. p. 293

Chapter XIII

Excellent Qualities cf the Author's Highland Attendant. — Description of Fas-na-claich. — Castle Stacher.— Appin House. — Ardshiel. — Bailechoalish House at the foot of Ben-a-vear. (the Monster Hill.) — Thunder Storm in the Vallies, viewed from the Summit. — Loch Leven. — Beauties of that Glen. — Extraordinary Appearance cf Trees. — Old Military Road to Fort William. — Devil's Stair-case. — Mr. Nattes. — Moors of Rannock. — Inver Coe. — Lead Mines at Strontian.— Aird-na-murchan. — Loch Simart. — Loch Shiell. — Impregnable Situation of Sunart and Aird-na-murchan, the Estate of Sir James Riddell. — Moss of Kintra. — Sheep Farms. — Dangerous Ride over Ben Risiepol to Glen Heurich. — Curious Preparations for a Funeral. — Loch Moiidart. — Highland Custom cf Surnames. — Wonderful Eel. p. 307

Chapter XIV

The Dream. — Isle of Eigish — View at the Saw Mills. — Falls of Killmoiraich. — Rothiemurchus The Doune. — Kenapol. — Kinrara, the Duchess of Gordon's Cottage. — Loch-na-Gaun. — Loch-in-Eilan Ord Bein. — Cairngorm. — Snow House. — Marquis of Huntly s Well. — Craig Elachie. — Beauties of Mr. Grant's CONTENTS. XV Woods. — Fine Char iu Loch Enich. — Pass of Lairg Cruaidh. — Brae Riach. — Source of the Dee Deirie Glen. — River Lui — Mar Lodge, Earl of Fife's. — Invercauld, Farquharson's, Esq. — Castle of Braemar. — Evron Berry. — Hill of Bards. — Remark able Cavern. p. 336

Chapter XV

Isle of Ulva, — Cottage described. — Cuerns. — Wooden Locks and Keys. — Method of Fulling Cloth. — Voyage from Bunessain to the Island of Eigg. — Rocks of Cairnburgh. — Hospitality of Colonel M' Lean of Coll, and his Family, and the Dangerous Coast of the Island of Coll. — Tirii. — Humane Offer of the Duke of Argyle to the Inhabitants of that Island. — Huts. — Manners of the People. — Weddings. — Curious Skeletons, and Ponies. P-353

Chapter XVI

Account of the Island of bigg. — Its Inhabitants. — Cause of Emigrations. — Caves. — Punishment of the M'Leods for an Outrage. — Its Cruel Consequences. — Veins of Pitch Stone. — Prismatic Pillars of the Scur in Eigg. — Voyage to the Isles of Rum and Skye, — Curious Alethod of Religious Conversion. p. 384

Chapter XVII

Gaelic name for Skye. — Culin and Bla-Bhein Mountains. — Loch Einort. — Curious Rock. — Landing in Skye. — Hospitality of a Skye Lady. — Journey to Talisker. — Talisker House and Family. — Dr. Johnson. — Cascades. — Loch Bracadale. — Raza House. — Astonishment of a Man from Uist, on the first Sight of a Tree — Departure from Raza. — Arrival at Scalpa. — Bein-na-Cailich. — Anecdote of its Name. — Hospitality of Mr. CONTENTS. XVI M'Donald and Mr. M'Kinnon Kylerai.— Eilan Riach. — Kintail. — Loch Duich. — Benevolence of Lady Seaforth to the Peasantry in the Luis. — Canal between Fort William and Inverness. — Road to Kylerai Ferry by the Sea-side impracticable. — Anecdote of a Roman Catholic Nobleman, and a Protestant Peasant. — Jour ney.to Fort Augustus — Glen Shiell — Military Road. — Mr. Gillespie. — Strath Cluonie. — Gr at Want of Inns there. — Mr. M'Rae's Shilin. — Glen Morrison—De lightful Ride from Inverwich to Invermorrison and Fort Augustus. p. [ **i ] Extracts from the Reviews of the First Volume. of the Guide, published in March, 1799.

British Critic for Octoher, 1799. "The title-page well and truly announces the character of this volume ; which cannot fail to prove a very useful guide and agreeable companion to every traveller who shall think proper to visit the scenes and places which the author has here described. The book is recommended particular])' by one distinction ; and this by no means unimportant. It not only points out and describes the places most worthy of the traveller's notice, but it explains the distances between place and place; the inns on the road; the state of the * roads ; and, what is of no little consequence to the traveller in Scotland, he is informed where a carriage can and Avhere it cannot pass. With respect to its accuracy, we can only say that it carries with it internal evidence of sincerity, and inspires confidence by an honest simplicity.

" The author's talents at description are successfully exerted on the subject of Roslin (quotation from p. J27-) Some pleasant Anecdotes are interspersed, particularly at p. Ill, 158, 229, 240, 258, 297. We shall close [ *xii ] our account of the book with thc curious account of the Lee-penny (p. 3S5.) " A small Map of the places visited by this entertaining traveller, seems to be the only thing necessary to make the publication, in a high degree, entitled to at tention; but, as it is at present, we recommend it with out scruple, since it cannot be perused without amusement, nor consulted without benefit." Monthly Rzvievi for May, 1800. " Th£ perusal of this work has afforded us consider able pleasure ; and, we trust, that we shall be able to impart to our readers some of the satisfaction which we have experienced.

The fair writer needs not plead her sex to entitle her to attention, much less to mercy ; and the praise which we bestow on her performance, justly and willingly, must not be considered as indulgence to a weakness which we have been tinable to discover ; nor as granted in consequence of her deprecating that censure^which, in our opinion, she by no means de serves. Her humility, however, enhances her merits. " Mrs. Murray observes, in her Preface, that she writes because she thinks that her Guide will be really useful to those who may follow her steps through f_ *xiii ] Scotland ; and to the Lakes of Cumberland, Westmore land, and Lancashire, by informing them of such objects as are worthy of notice ; and, at the same time, acquaint ing them where and by what means they can attain a view of them in the safest and most comfortable man ner.

This purpose she has fully accomplished, by pointing out the distances from place to place, and by mentioning the inns, whether good or bad, not omitting the state of the roads, distinguishing such as are fit for a carriage, and those on which it cannot go with safety, ■Sec. In addition to these circumstances, which form the useful part of the work, and constitute tbe duty of a Guide, Mrs. M. enlivens her narrative with animated and picturesque description, and with amusing anec dotes. Her objects are, lst, To furnish an useful Vade Mecum to travellers; which is done in less than one hundred pages : 2dly, which is the most difficult and the most entertaining part of the volume, To give a minute and just description of those natural beauties in the Highlands of Scotland, with which, for the follow* ing reasons, she conceives herself to be better acquainted than most other individuals : — 'I was alone,' &c. (p. 43.)

" We shall dismiss the first part of the work with ob serving, that the directions given in it are judicious; and that many of the remarks are, to our knowledge (for we are not unacquainted with the country through which the author passed) just and well-founded. No one who has travelled can doubt the propriety of the advice conveyed in the following passage; — ' If you E*eaB to travel,' &c (page 4Q.) • [ *xiv ] " Trom Longtown, where the descriptive part of the work commences, Mrs. Murray continues her journey to Langholm, through part of Eskdale, Ewesdale, and Tiviotdale, to a beautiful part of Tweed-dale; which she represents in the most glowing colours. The pleasure which she derives from viewing the pure charms of Nature is so great, and expressed in such warm and natural terms, that it is impossible not to partake, in the perusal, of the satisfaction which she enjoyed in her route.

" We readily believe Mrs. Murray Avhen she declares, that the simple beauty of Nature is her hobby-horse; and we also assent to her inference, when she triumph antly asks, ' Where can a hobby-horse of that breed iind greater scope than in Scotland, particularly the Highlands?' An account of fine houses or dressed places is not to be expected in this volume, the author having been in pursuit of far different objects. For this reason, she did not attempt to enter the Duke of Buccleugh's house at Dalkeith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh ; but contented herself with seeing the pleasure-grounds, park, &c. We much approve the Lady's taste. " The description of the scenery about Loch Cathe rine is truly interesting; and the difficulties and dan gers which the fair traveller encountered, in order to obtain a favourable view, astonish us ; for they were more than sufficient to impede a less determined tra veller than Mrs. Murray.

We transcribe the account of Leadnoch, in the hope that our readers will deriy* [ *xv ] from it as much pleasure as we did : — ' But of all the spots,' 8tc. (page 172.) " As long-continued descriptions, however accurate and just, or however bold, masterly, and picturesque, tend to fatigue the mind, Mrs. Murray, not unfre quently, introduces delineations of character ; and some times diversifies her narrative with agreeable anecdotes. The following sketch of the manners of the people of Inverness will justify our observation : — ' I have al ready mentioned,' &c. (page 228.) " We must now take leave of this agreeable tourist, with thanks for the entertainment afforded us by her singular and valuable performance. Her descriptions appear to us to be generally accurate and just; though we think that she rather over-rates the difficulties and dangers which it was necessary to encounter, before a perfect view of the country could be obtained."

" *xvi ] Extracts from the Reviews of the Second Volume. of the G vide, published in October, 1803. Monthly Review for February, 1804. "■ We have, on a former occasion, acknowledged our obligations to this ingenious lady, for furnishing an amusing companion find useful guide to those who travel in the Highlands of Scotland. The first part of the present publication, as before, is devoted to men tioning the distances from place to place, and the beautiful objects to be viewed in the neighbourhood ; and the larger part of the volume is occupied by a description of the sublime and romantic scenery which so much prevails in the northern part of our island. Mrs. Murray appears to be possessed of such enthusiasm, that difficulties and dangers operate on her mind as in ducements; and we frequently behold her exposing herself to situations from which the most hardy of the other sex would willingly retire.

Impelled by a strong attachment to the beauties of Nature, she has visited scenes which were admirably calculated to gratify and reward her liberal curiosity. It is impossible for her readers not to partake, in some degree, of the pleasure with which her labours have been crowned ; and we peruse her descriptions with a portion cf the same in terest and admiration which actuated the writer. [ *xvii ] " In addition to the descriptive part of this work, we meet with several amusing anecdotes, and are introduced to the acquaintance of those persons from whom the fair author received any kindness or attention ; and a want of gratitude or feeling for services bestowed, cannot be reckoned amongst Mrs. Murray's failings.— Our readers, we think, will be pleased with the following passage, which shews the savage manners of former periods; and incontestibly proves the truth of the Poet's observation :— Raro antecedentem scelestum Deseruit, pede pœna claudo.

" At the south end of the island of Lismore, &c. (p. 135.)— The astonishment and admiration of the fair traveller are raised to their highest point by a view of Fingal's Cave, and of the bending pillars in the Isle of Staffa. " We shall make some extracts from Mrs. Mur ray's narrative : — ' After we had doubled the Point of Gometra,' &c. (p. 156.) "The reader will form a competent idea of the fear less nature of Mrs. Murray's character, when he peruses her account of the visit to the dangerous gulf of Coire Vreaikain. We confess that we shuddered, and were alarmed for her safety during the whole ofthe voyage. " We shall terminate our quotations from this entertaining volume with an amusing anecdote : — ' At present, most ofthe inhabitants of Kintail/ &c. (p. 424.) [ *xviii ] British Critic for June, 1804.

" The former volume published by this lively and en tertaining traveller was noticed by us, with just commen dation, in our fourteenth volume, p. 400. We have no doubt, that many succeeding visitors of these interesting parts of the British dominions, have found it both art agreeable companion and useful guide. The author has in consequence been induced again to exercise her pen in the description of the Western Highlands, but more particularly of the Hebrides. The minuteness with which she represents the distances of the different places, the most eligible means of travelling, the good and in different inns, the principal objects of curiosity, render this one of the most convenient and pleasant books of the kind that we ever saw. Many curious anecdotes are* interspersed, and traditionary tales related in a sprightly manner ; one or two of which we transcribe: — 'A pretty composition, though not of Ossian's harp,' &c. (p. 241.)

" This tale apparently owes its origin to the well known fable of Cupid and Psyche. The following can not be read without interest: — ' Every length of the boat brought something new to admire,' &c. (p. 258.) " The writer's powers of description are displayed with considerable effect, in her account of the Isle of Staffa, and the celebrated Cave of Fingal, and not less .go in her narrative of her journey to I-Ona. On all oc casions, we discern marks of a veiy active mind undis mayed by difficulties" and dangers. We cannot part with [ *xix ] our pleasing companion and guide without transcribing one more anecdote : — ' At present, most of the inhabit ants of Kintail,' &c. (p. 424.) " We are still of opinion, that a map, though of slight execution, would render this a more perfect work ; but as it is, few will chuse to visit the places which are here described without it*.

" The same vivacity is preserved throughout ; and the narrative is invariably communicated in a tone of cheer fulness and good humour which would induce us, if we could find time for rambling, to entertain the wish of making the same delightful tour not only with the writer's book, but the writer herself. We understand, that since this book was published, the author's name is changed to Aust." * The Author has it in contemplation to reprint that part of her work which is called tbe Guide, in one small duodecimo volume, to serve as a convenient pocket-companion for all sorts of travel lers, even Pedestrians; and she will then follow the advice of thc British Critic, by adding in it a map of slight execution. The Annual Review for 1803. " In the year 1799, Mrs. Murray published an octavo volume, as a ' Guide to the Scottish Scenery,' &c. That having met with some success, and been spoken [ *xx ] highly of by two or three reviewers, she has extended the work by publishing the present volume, which re fers principally to the scenery and character of the Western Islands of Scotland.

These wild and interesting regions had previously attracted the curiosity of Dr. Johnson, Dr. Garnett, Faujas Saint - Fond, &c. each of whom has communicated his observations to the public. " The work is humbly entitled, 'A Companion and Useful Guide,' &c. and the first part is simply occupied with directions about inns, roads, travelling, and accommodations : all these are required to be known by persons making the tour ; and a knowledge of them must facilitate their progress, and add to their com foit. 'This Guide,' observes Mrs. Murray, ' points out to tbe traveller what is worth,' &c. (Advertisement to the reader, prefixed to Vol. I.) " These arc facts well known, and often lamented by the curious traveller, who loses the sight of many sin gular and interesting objects, for want of knowing their true situation and real character.

A faithful Guide is therefore a valuable travelling companion ; and such, we believe, is this before us. "The first part of the volume contains a simple guide or directory to Edinburgh, to the beauties in the Wes tern Highlands, to the Isles of Staffa, I-Columbkill or I-Ona, Mull, Ulva, Tirii, Coll, Eigg, Rum, Canna, Skye, Raza, and Scalpa; and in the main land, through Glen Elg to Fort Augustus ; also to a part of the eastern coast of Scotland, Braemar .and Rothiemurchus. In the second part these places are described, and various [ *xxi ] intermediate objects and circumstances descanted on. Some of the relations are extremely interesting, and. our sympathy and curiosity are held in continued sus pense. We feel for the situation of the tourist ; and contemplate, in imagination, the various incidents of her journey, and also the wild scenery of the country she passed through.

As many of the narratives are peculiarly interesting, we intend to make two or three long extracts, for the gratification of our readers. "The first we select will be an account of her ex cursion through the Island of Mull. This will at once characterize the style of descriptive writing, and the ardour of mind displayed in our female tourist. 'On the 31st of July 1800/ &c. (page 193) " The next morning Mrs. Murray took leave of her hospitable friends, with many thanks, and proceeded to Mr. Campbell's. This journey proved extremely wet; and at the completion of it she was drenched with rain : nor was this the only unpleasant event in the tour ; for the road between Penny-Cross and Bunnessainis more dangerous for a horse than any track she had before entered. The following singular occurrence, related as a fact, might be dramatised with a very powerful effect by a skilful writer*. 'In former times one of the Mf Leans of Duart,' &c, (p. 136).

" The succeeding narrative of Mrs. Murray's voyage to Staffa, and the description of the island, can not fail to interest every class of readers ; and, Ave pre- * This was accordingly done by Mr. Holcroft in the Melo- Drame entitled she Lady of the Rock, which made its appearance at Dairy Lane Theatre in the month of February 1805. [ *xxii ] slime," the extent of the extracts will riot satiate nor fatigue the mind. She left Torloisk in a very small boat, having four rowers, and some provisions in the head of it; also a young man as an interpreter. The tide and weather were favourable, and the voyage proved extremely pleasant. At about half a mile distant from Staffa, it appeared a very common -looking rough island, or rather a huge rock, with perpendicular cliffs to the summit, rising high above the ocean. ' I began to think,' says Mrs. Murray, ' I had ventured on the Atlantic,' &c. (p. 155).

" The author next visits and explores the Cave of Fingal, which she attempts to describe; but her feelings of admiration and wonder seem to deprive her of the power of description, for she becomes ambiguous and tautologous. She visits many other parts of the island, and endeavours to delineate its most prominent features. Some of these sketches are touched with spirit and truth ; but others are too faint, or confused, to be easily com prehended. With another short extract we must take leave of our entertaining tourist, whose work has cer tainly afforded us much amusement. " The clam-shell cave, with its large bending pillars, convex, horizontal prisms, &c. are described ; and Mrs. Murray states, that she appropriated this singular spot to ' a dining room.' 'When I had finished my lux uriant feast,' &c. (p. 171.)" A GUIDE TO EDINBURGH. 6 A'OL.

IU A GUIDE, ire. As I have had far greater experience since I wrote my first Guide and Companion, I will now endeavour to point out a better mode of leaving London, than I was then able to do. I still continue of opinion that the north road, through Huntingdon, is the most eligible, because the road itself is better and far more lev»l than the Barnet road ; besides being five miles shorter. Every traveller knows that he always pays two-pence or three-pence a mile for the first stage out of the capital, more than he does after wards. In general, travellers must know four and tAventy hours, at least, before they depart, therefore they would have time sufficient to write to Waltham Cross, for horses to come into town for them. It is the same thing to an inn-keeper, whether he sends for you out of B2 A GUIDE tOAvn, or conveys you into it.

Only name your hour of departure, that he may calculate for the baiting of his horses in London. There are iavo inns at Waltham Cross: I am able to recommend one of them strongly, namely, the Falcon, Mr. Warner's, who is a respectable man. What first carried me to his house was, thatAvhen other inn-keepers bribed postillions to carry company to their houses, he was above that mean practice. Mr. Warner informed me the number of miles he charged, (as under) to the different parts of London, Avhich -will enable travellers to knov, they are not imposed upon by drivers. From Waltham Cross to Saint Paul's, 13 miles. To Somerset house, 14 miles To Charing Cross, 15 do. To Saint James's, 16 do. To Westminster, 16 do. To Grosvenor Square, 15 do. To Hyde park corner, 16 do. To Kensington 18 do. If you are going to London from the north, you will find the Waltham Cross road much pleasanter in winter, or when it becomes rather dusk, because it is safer.

In fact it is like tra velling through a town, all the way from Waltham Cross to the city, or city road, leading to the west end of the tOAvn ; whereas, in the Barnet road, you have Finchly Common to cross. If you are timorous, and are inclined to stop short a stage or two of London, you may sleep very comfortably either at the Foun tain Inn, Huntingdon, or Wade's Mill ; and at the FalcoD, Mr. Warner's, you will find Arery good accommodations. I have generally slept at Stilton, both in going north and returning. If I can help it I never will do so again, because I prefer passing a night, if I mean to travel the Barnet road, at Alconbury hill, the Wheat Sheaf. It is a good house, and stands alone just as the road branches, the one to Huntingdon, the other through Barnet. If the Huntingdon road be travelled, I would advise the travellers by all means to sleep at the Fountain inn, Ms.

Griffith's, at Huntingdon, in preference to Stilton ; and the road of that stage is so good and level, that it may be safely passed Avith a sober driver, in the dark. From Huntingdon, by setting out A GUIDE early, you may be in London with ease, by three or four o'clock in the afternoon. The George at Grantham is a very large and good inn. The Red Lion at Tuxford is a very good house, and exceedingly well kept by Mr. Howson, one of the civilest landlords on the north road. He had the spirit in 1802, to run his horses for a shilling a mile, while almost all other posting houses kept up the price at fifteen pence a mile. Mr. Howson, therefore, ought to be encouraged ; besides, travellers will find comfort in stopping at an inn, where the master of it is himself very attentive, and always in the way, consequently he is thereby enabled to secure civility from his servants also to travellers.

Hall's at Ferrybridge is one of the neatest kept houses I have entered. Denton's too, on the south side of the bridge, is a capital inn ; in short, it is more like a noble man's habitation than a house of public enter tainment. From Ferrybridge to Wetherby, 17 miles. I recommend the Angel Inn. To Boroughbridge, 12 miles. By all means go to the three Grey Hounds, Mrs. Hind's, a widow. It is impossible to be better treated any Avhere than you will be at Mrs. Hind's. She is a respectable good woman, and has a family to provide for. My first Guide conducted you to Carlisle ; I Avill now slightly name the inns, ice. between Boroughbridge and Edinburgh, through Ber wick, and another road from Morpeth to Edinburgh, through Kelso. From Boroughbridge to North Allerton, 19 miles. To Darlington, 16 miles.