Travels in Trinidad, during ... February, March and April, 1803. In a series of letters, etc

Front matter

.1 MAP »r rut: ISLAND or TftlXlDAD TRAVELS IS TRINIDAD DURING the MONTHS of FEBRUARY, MARCH, and APRIL, 1803, IN A SERIES OF LETTERS, ADDRESSED TO A MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL PARLIAMENT OF GREAT BRITAIN. >♦< ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP OF THE ISLAND. By PIERRE F. M'CALLUM. No power of words, No graceful periods of harmonious spesch Dwell 0,1 my lips — the only art I boast Is honest truth, unpolish'd, unadorn'd, — Truth that must strike conviction to your heart! Murphy's Zenobi,.. ILifeerpool, PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY IV. JONES,, 56, CASfLE-STREET, AND SOLO BY THE BOOKSELLERS IN LONDON, EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, &C. &C. 1805.

Preface

. X HE importance of the Island of Trinidad, as a Commercial Settlement, may be inferred from the interest which the British Government evinced at the close of the last war, to preserve it as a part of the British Empire. Its proximity to the Spanish Main, certainly renders it an important acquisition, not less as a military depot, than as affording an extensive demand for our manufactures. No sooner was it ceded to this country', therefore, than the attention of his Majesty's Ministers was accordingly very properly turned towards it, and plans were suggested for promoting its general improvement, by the introduction of colonial regulations, suited to the liberal and enlarged views of the British Government. These, indeed, every one, at all acquainted with the history of the Island, and the line of conduct which had been pursued by its Governors, whether British or Spanish, must know, were highly necessary.

The wisdom of Mr. Addington and his Colleagues, was evinced in the choice of the person to whom this important mission was entrusted. Colonel Fullarton is too well known to his countrymen, by a life spent in the most active and beneficial services, both in Europe and Asia,

PREFACE.

. to stand in need of any apology for the appointment of first Commissioner of the Island of Trinidad, with which he was vested. That he has not succeeded in effecting that amelioration of the state of the inhabitants which was in the view of the British Ministry, is a sub ject of deep regret ; but the causes which prevented it, I have endeavoured to detail in the subsequent Letters with impartiality and a rigid adherence to truth. Should it be thought by any of my Readers, that, in reciting the atrocities of which the Island of Trinidad has unhappily been the theatre, I have indulged too freely the stile of asperity, I may, I trust, claim some ex cuse, when it is recollected that I was myself the victim of oppression. I am not sure whether I ought to apolo gise to my Readers for such language ; the hatred which a free-born Briton must ever bear towards a system of tyranny, will, if he have occasion to treat the suhject at all, give point and energy to his language.

The times in which we live demand an explicit avowal of our sentiments ; and to be the spectator of a line of conduct on the part of a Brstish Governor, which would have disgraced the Tyrant of the Continent, without marking it by expressions of my most perfect hatred, was, with me, impossible. When the publication of my Travels was first an nounced by an advertisement in the Liverpool Chronicle, an attempt was made to suppress them by the friends and partizans of Colonel Picton. A letter was addressed

PREFACE.

. V to the Printer of that Paper, by Joseph Marryat, Esq. of London, threatening him with a prosecution, which gave occasion to the following reply, which I inserted in the above-mentioned Paper, under date of the 12th December, 1804. To Joseph Marryat, Esq. New Bridge Street, London. Sir, I HAVE been favored with a sight of your letter of the 6th Instant to the Printer of this Paper: and as it wholly relates to my Travels in Trinidad, I shall make no apology for addressing you in this public manner. The uncommon interest you appear to take in every thing which affects Colonel Picton, reflects great honor on the nature of your friendship for that officer. As the Champion of a man who labours under some of the heaviest charges which the laws of England have power to punish, I cannot observe your active zeal without lamenting that such generous exertions are likely to be so unavailing, or that for the sake of the character or5 your discretion, you had not employed them in a more popular cause.

But, is it not enough that you have be come surety for Colonel Picton in the sum of 10,0001. that he shall appear to answer any bill or bills of indict ment which, may be found against him for murder or VI

PREFACE.

. murders, stated to have been by him committed without this realm? Is it not enough that, in the warmth of your feelings, you addressed Lord Hobart in a letter which you fancied to have contained a charge against Colonel Fullarton, but which, there is reason to believe, met with the contempt it deserved, and will probably never more be thought of, unless that meritorious officer should commence against you, what you seem to be so fond of talking about — a prosecution ? Do you really intend to throw down the gauntlet to every one who shall enter the lists against Colonel Picton ? Alas, Sir, I fear you have engaged in his defence without considering the nature and extent of the service required ; and, to use your very sapient words to Mr. Jones, "you will, on this subject, do well to exercise proper discretion."

I know not how to account for your conduct in this particular transaction ; for, without meaning any compliment, I cannot think so contemptibly of your understanding, as to suppose that you really hoped your menaces would prevent the appearance of my intended publication. Had Mr. Jones published the Chronicle in Trinidad, then, indeed, matters might have been managed in a more summary manner. The Council might have met, and declared the Colony in danger — a proclamation might have been published — the Printing Office broke open by an honorable member of Council — (such things have been) — manuscripts of the most sacred na ture seised, and exposed or destroyed — the press stopped,

PREFACE.

. VII and the Printer thrown into prison. But in this country things are not managed with such energy, and hence Colonel Picton has no opportunity of exercising what he was so fond of terming the " wholesome severity of the law." You declare, that the Colonel has not seen the advertisement of my intended publication. The declaration of Mr. Marryat is, in this instance, sufficient ; I should otherwise hardly believe, that out of the great number of the Colonel's friends, no one was induced to inform him of a production, which, from the steps you have taken, appears to be not altogether unworthy of notice. But he may, by accident, read this letter, and I wish him to know that my Travels are in a state of great forwardness, and are now delayed being published only for the rea sons already given to the Public, and not from any me nace of your's — that the advertisement was inserted from a full conviction of the importance of the subject, and not through inadvertency — not from malevolence, but a love of truth and justice, which have influenced me in the design of that publication, and will, I trust, con duct me to its conclusion.

I wish him to know that I feel thankful for the moderation which restrained his vengeance when I was in his power, thereby enabling me to appeal to the public of a free country. Alas! some who felt the weight of his displeasure, have not lived to tell their tale. I wish him to know— but, I beg your pardon, Sir, for this digression— my mind has been irre-

PREFACE.

. sistibly d/awn from yourself to the Colonel, as if you were a cypher in the great account, and of no value, but from the relative situation in which you are placed — as if you were a mere machine, with no impulse of your own — an automaton, acted upon and moved by the arch juggler behind the curtain — you must, therefore, pardon this apparent neglect, and permit me to subscribe my self, Sir, Your very humble Servant, P. F. M'CALLUM. December 11, 1804. That these Letters will be perused by my coun trymen witti some degree of interest, I think I may conclude without presumption. Happy shall I esteem myself, if this plain unvarnished tale, this naked exposi tion of facts of which I have been an eye and ear witness, shall awaken the attention of those whose depart ment it is to watch over the interests of my country, to avenge the wrongs of her children and relieve them from the oppressors scourge, and if it shall be the means, in the remotest degree, of introducing a more mild and equitable Administration of Government into the Island or Trinidad. Liverpool, 3\st August, 1805. €OJVTEJVTS.

Letter I. Author's

departure from America — Cursory Observations on his unfortunate Friend, General Toussaint — New Englandmen — Barbadoes — Character of Lord Seaforth — Description of the Island — Kindness of Mr. Knight — Biographical Sketch of the Author's Fellow-passengers — Tobago — Short Description of it — Bocases — Gulf of Paria — Approaching View sublime — Author's arrival in Trinidad — His tedious Introduction to delegated Majesty — His attention excited ad interim, by the strange sight of a lusus nature — First glance at General Picton, and the Author's opinion of that Personage .... page 9.

Letter II

Description of Port of Spain — Its Situation and Inhabitants — Picton's predilection for Foreigners, and hatred to the British — Bay of Paria — Abercromby Tower — Black Troops — The System of arming them condemned — A White Population recommended, to consist of Highlanders — Anecdote of a Scotch Bashaw — The Island partly described — Its discovery — Aborigines — Visit to them at Arima, and Reverie under a Linden Tree. • Page 22.

Letter III

Reverie continued — The present State of the Indians of Arima — Census of the Colony in 1 797— Natural History of the Orange and Tamarind Trees — Of the Grape, Indian Corn, and Cocoa — Ancient and Modern Method of making Chocolate, together with its medicinal Virtues. - - - Page 35, b X CONTENTS-.

Letter IV

Wonderful interposition of Providence in procrastinating the Author's Life — Estimate of-the Arable Lands in Trinidad — Exports for the Years 1799, 1800, and 1801 — Reason why so diminitive — Natural History of the Cotton and Coffee Trees, with their medicinal Virtues ..... - - Page 51.

Letter V

Arguments deduced from antiquity, to evince thatthe Climate is no impediment to the Industry of the Whites — Extraordinary Longivity — Climate healthy — Debauchery and Intemperance destructive — Conduct of the European— Mode of choosing Mistresses — Reflections thereon — A Creolian Method of acquiring a Fortune, by ablocating Prostitutes — West India Tavern, a common Lustrum Philadelphian Method of getting Slaves — Career of the European— "^•ilacity and Festivity, how fatal — Diseases and Mortality among a e Negroes— Æfa/ a" Ettomac, or Dirt-Eating — Its Origin and 3rie«ts ---...„ . Page 58.

Letter VI

T#$ jiHuthoncl -.he Scotch Highlander, and the West India Negro ttsiicC '—Kenwk'i on the State of the Highland Redemptioners in the Utldet/ SjJtes of America— A Hint to future Emigrants— Trp. toJiA Hcorrmieasltd ftj further Advantages explained — Necesiifie-s tft£fi£rCdiii&y Vfjjeiables, &c— Description of thefeoco Vret , its meeliaMl V^tU^-Method of extracting Surt a.i j di$> TtSttg krat-Cif'v- Tree- Paraguay, or Souths Ta?-, its V(rtJa0f— Mingross T>« -M. mgrove Oysters— HijUrry < ' - - - - .... /r.^- m. LETTER Y[J. i Improvement «# tba^rkvut^^-PeO'Maitt, Q,\Ritow* or ftrjL Pitch described— Pitewftt/vm n»r pttdutr B> the SHI(Uiu(OrU CONTENTS. XI •boco described-Sir Walter Raleigh's Enterprize in search of ■Gold— Indirect Commerce with the Spaniards frustrated by the misconduct of Governor Picton— Reflections on his Character, his Prototype, &c Page 95-

Letter VIII

Colonial Strength— How improved, and the Advantages that might be derived from it— Bonaparte's Speculative Views with regard to South America— Surinam, his Military Depot— Hints which might lead to counteract them— Jamaica, why it may not follow the Fate of St. Domingo— Roome's Plot— General Christophe'.s extraordinary Proposal to the Author, which he declined— An Account of the Mutiny of the sth West India Regiment— -Settling the Island of I rinidad with Africans, and the danger at- ■tending aa Increase of Negro Troops reprobated, &c. Page 1 13.

Letter IX

Apprehension of Danger — The Illustrious Cabildo, or the Inquisition — Law Proceedings — Plaintiff and Defendant — Escrivanos, or Lawyers— Swindling Anecdote — The Author's Visit to the Bastille — The Horrors of it portrayed — Commission illegally issued by General Picton, to destroy Negroes accused of Witchcraft — The Proceedings under this Commission described — Rosetta Smith, her Influence — J. B. Vallot, his Office — Murder of a Negro — Don Philip Langdon ; his Mode of silencing a Dun — The oppressive Imprisonment of Mr. Dowding, &c - Page 12c,

Letter X

Preliminary Remarks — Biographical Sketch of Governor Picton— His Origin and Connections, with his first Career in Trinidad — A common Mode of " raising' the Wind," displayed — Custom- House Rats and Panders— His false Exploits trumpeted— His disgusting Conduct to Strangers reprobated— Madame Rosetta selected for a Mistress, to prevent a repetition of certain Crimes — The Honey Moon— Presents bestowed for secret Servicesw-Her Ascen- CONTENTS. dency — Her peculative and plundering Excesses — Resistance dan gerous—The Governor sunk in the Lap of Ease— Rosetta takes the Reins of Government into her own Hands — Her first Act of Cruelty directed towards Mrs. GrifBths and her Daughters — The Governor remonstrated with on this occasion — His romantic Reply— The illegal Execution of a Serjeant of the Royal Artillery, and a French Planter — Slaves clandestinely carried away, and the Planters plundered — General Reflections, &c. - Page 138.

Letter XI

Reflections on the Conduct os Governor Picton, and the Inhabitants of Trinidad, at the close of the War — Their Hopes of a Change in their political Situation — Opposition of the Governor, and an Inquiry into the Causes of it — Detail of the Circumstances respecting an Address to his Majesty on the Event of the Peace — Address prepared and signed unanimously at a Public Meeting — A considerable Number of British Inhabitants agree to celebrate the cessation of Hostilities by a Public Dinner, on the nth of December, 1801, but are prevented by order of the Governor — Messrs. Higham, Shaw, and others, persecuted in consequence of the Address to the King — The former arrested, and thrown into Prison — Released without any Charge or Trial — Reflections on that Transaction — Conversation between Governor Picton and Mr. Higham -1 he Manner in which the Governor intimidated the Inhabitants, by boasting of his Influence at Home — Hints respecting the Execution of an Artillery-Man— And an Anecdote, in which the Governor asserts that his Majesty's Ministers warranted and approved of that Transaction — Reflections on so strapge a Declaration — Events in December 1801, resumed, and concluded ... .... page i56)

Letter XII

Picton's aversion to Lawyers and Literary Men— The Banishment of Russel Minchin, Esq. a Barrister, the supposed Author of a Placard, reflecting on Picton's Cruelties— The Placard answered by a sanguinary Proclamation— The Author narrowly v/atched — Reflections on his perilous Situation— A Specimen of Genera Pic- CONTENTS. XIII ton's Billingsgate Elocution, particularlyin the Case of Judge Nihel— Mr. Nihel abused, and dismissed from his Office— John Black promoted— Picton's congratulatory Address to Black— An Introduction to Black's Character— The ultimate Cause of Judge Nihel's Suspension elucidated— The oppressive Case of J. B. D. Savignon displayed— A Summary of a few of the Sports attributed to Picton, Scc.&c Page 172.

Letter XIII

Case of Hugh Gallagher, executed by order of Governor Picton, in May, 1797, reconsidered — An Account of Jean Baptiste Richard, a free Mulatto man, executed without Trial, by order of Governor Picton, in the year 1797 — Fourteen Privates of ;he 60th Regiment, and of Hompesch Corps, executed in 1797, by order of Governor Picton, without any Form of Trial — Detail of the Case of John Baptiste Alarcon, a Spanish Sailor, executed in the month of April, 1797, by order of Governor Picton, without any Form of Trial, for a Crime commmitted on the High Seas — A Guiacaree Indian, the Sailing Captain, or Patron of a Schooner, Tortured and Shot by order of Governor Picton, without any form of Trial, in 1800 — The Case of Pierre Francois, executed, December, 1801, by order of Governor Picton, for Sorcery, Divination, Knowledge of the Black Art, Poisoning by means of Charms, &c. — Bouqui, executed December, 1801, by order of Governor Picton, for Sorcery, Divination, Knowledge of the Black Art, Poisoning by means of Charms, &c. — La Fortune, executed February, 1802, by order of Governor Pictoa, for Sorcery Divination, Knowledge of the Black Art, Poisoning by means of Charms, &c. — Thisbe, a Negress, Tortured and afterwards Hanged, in February, 1 802, by order of Governor Picton, for Sorcery, Divination, Knowledge of the Black Art, holding Converse with the Devil, Poisoining by means of Charms, &c— Michael Gradon, executed March, 1802, by order of Governor Picton, for Sorcery, Divination, Knowledge of the Black Art, Poisoning by means of Charms, &c. — Aubinot, executed April 1 802, by order of Governor Picton, for Sorcery, Divination, Knowledge of the Black Art, Poisoning by means of Charms, &c .— Present, a Negress, Hanged without Trial, by order of Governor Picton— Circumstance relating to Goliah, a Ne- CONTENTS. gro Slave, belonging to John Dawson, Esq. who died in conse* quence of a severe Flogging ordered by Governor Picton — Observations on the above Cases. ...

Page 187.

Letter XIV

Remarks on the Situation of the Inhabitants when the First Commissioner arrived in Trinidad — His Reception and Address to the Public Functionaries — The Address misrepresented in Picton's Gazette — The Intention of it thwarted — A Proclamation to decoy the First Commissioner, to sanction the Acts of the former Governor — The Conduct of the Public Secretary in this Transaction — The Measures of the Party Defeated — Brigadier-General Picton alarmed — Orders of the First Commissioner respecting Commitments — The Alcaldes remonstrate — Proceedings of the Cabildo respecting a New Jail — The First Commissioner Visits the Old One, and the Situation in which he found it — The Executioner's Complaint, &c. — A Second Visit to the Jail, Increases Brigadier- General Picton's Jealousy — An Explanation — Reflections thereon — Brigadier-General Picton's Attempt to deprive Mr. Hargrove, Printer, of his Licence — Proceedings on the 12th of February, respecting Madame Duval — Outrageous Conduct of the Brigadier, in the House of the First Commissioner — His Apology to Mrs. Fullarton — A Parallel of the Conduct of both Commissioners — Further Proceedings in the Case of Madame Duval, and the Public Secretary Suspended .....

Page 202. LETTER- XV. Scene at the Mole — Lieutenant-General Grinfield and Commodore Hood receieved with Military Honors — The Awkwardness of the Troops, and the Embarrassment of Brigadier-General Picton — The Commodore Prejudiced against the First Commissioner — His Dream and Conduct unaccountable — Military Aid denied the Civil Power — Colonel Fullarton's Statement to the Commissioners — Brigadier-General Picton's Determination to persist in forcing Colonel Fullarton to concur in Sanguinary Measures — The Commodore's Conduct on this Occasion — The Brigadier's Intention to destroy the Criminal Records, but frustrated by Colonel Ful- CONTENTS. XV larton, who gains possession of them— Proceedings on this Occa sion—Colonel Fullarton embarks on Board the Schooner Start, &c. ----.„ page 221

Letter XVI

Colonel Fullarton's Departure lamented — Mr. Archibald Glo3ter's Proclamation to the British Inhabitants — The Case of John Dawson, Esq. — His Memorial, and Brigadier-General Picton's Answer — Mr. Dawson's CfiLracter Vindicated — Colonel Fullarton's Character Aspersed by Brigadier-General Picton's Panders — Reflections thereon — The Author taken before a Military Committee, and his Conduct on that Occasion ... Page 236.

Letter XVII

The Author Arrested by an Officer of the Inquisition, and brought before Commissioners Picton and Hood — His Examination and Commitment to the Bastille — Description of the Cell in which he was confined — Also, Vallot the Governor — The Case of a Negress Roasting Alive — Transactions during the Second Day of his Cap. tivity — Method of Flogging Slaves described — The Author Indisposed, and suspects having been Poisoned — Third Day of his Captivity — Still much Indisposed — Solicits Medical Aid — Dragged from his Cell to Commodore Hood's House — His Examination — The Ugly Club — Fourth Day's Captivity — The Imprisonment of Dr. Timbrill— Distress of Mrs. T. on that Occasion— Fifth Day's Captivity — Letter from Secretary Woodyear — Description of the Doctor's Cell, and Reflections thereon— Sixth Day's Captivity — Proclamation respecting the Militia— Comments— Letter tr> the Author— Seventh and Eighth Day's Captivity— He is Banished to America Page 247.

Letter XVIII

The Author Arrives at New York, and re-affumes an Historical Detaif of the Affairs of Trinidad— Proclamation of the 27 th of April— Indignant Conduct of Brigadier -General Picton— Comma. CONTENTS. dore Hood's Departure — Orders issued to Seize and Detain CoJ. Fullarton — Embargo — Col. Fullarton's Proceedings at Barbadoes — An Extraordinary Advertisement — Dispatches fromLord Hobart, defining the Powers vested in the First Commissioner — The Co lonel returns to Trinidad — The Brigadier's Conduct on that Oc casion — Col. Fullarton's Proclamation — Brigadier-General Picton Superseded, takes a French Leave of the Colony, and is addressed by his Panders, together with his Answer — The Joy of the Inhabitants — Proceedings of the Colonel till his final Departure for England, and the affectionate Testimonials of the British In habitants ..... . . Page 280.

Letter XIX

The Yellow Fever — New York Deserted — Anecdote of a Rev. Clergyman — Case of a Stranger — Remarks on the Origin of the Fever — Distressing Case of a Young Lady — General Observations on the Arts, Commerce, Manners, and Factions of America — A Letter respecting the Robbery committed by Jerome Bonaparte, at Cape Francois ...... page s01.

Letter XX

A Cursory View of the Historical Events in St. Domingo, from the Year 1790 till 1802 ..... Page 313.

Appendix

No. I. General Picton's Panegyric .... Page 332.

APPENDIX.

No. II. Horrors of West India Slavery ... page 33g.

APPENDIX.

No. III. Orders for resisting Colonel Fullarton « . Page 351.