An Account of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in the Republic of Mexico; with proposals for establishing a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, based upon the surveys and reports of a Scientific Commission, appointed by the Projector Don J. de Garay. (Principally compiled from two...

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AN ACCOUNT OF THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC IN THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO; WITH rRO»OSALS FOR ESTABLISHING A COMMUNICATION BbTWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS, BASED Ui'ON THE SURVEYS AKD SEFQBTS 01 A SCIENTIFIC COMMISSION, APPOINTED BY THE P80JECTGH DON JOSE DE GARAY LONDON PRINTED BY J. D. SMITH AND CO. 7, EAST HARDING STRHIT., GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREW 1846. COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS THROUGH THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC. AN ACCOUNT OF THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC IN THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO ; WITH PROPOSALS FOR ESTABLISHING A COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS, BASER UPON THE SURVEYS AND REPORTS OF A SCIENTIFIC COMMISSION, APPOINTED BY THE PROJECTOR DON JOSE DE GARAY LONDON: PRINTED BY J. D. SMITH AND CO., 7, EAST HARDING STREET, GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET. 1846.

LONDON: PRINTED BY ]. D. SMITH AND CO., 7, EAST HARDING STREET, GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET. CONTENTS. PAGE. Preface 7 Introduction . 9 CHAP. I. Advantages of an Oceanic Communication through the American Isthmus, and preference which ought to be given to the Territory of Tehuantepec over those of Panama and Nicaragua 13 CHAP. II The Isthmus of Tehuantepec had been decreed to be opened by the Spanish Cortes, 30 April, 1814. Proposals of Don Jose de Garay to the Mexican Government, and terms of the grants made to him. — Scientific Commission of Survey appointed by Don J. de Garay, — departure of the Commission from Mexico, — motives of Confidence to be placed in the Reports of the Commission . . 23 CHAP. III. Notices of different Authors, ancient and modern, who have spoken of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, — Cortes, — Dampier, — Cramer, — Humboldt, — Robinson, — Tadeo de Ortiz,— Orbegoza .... 2'.' CHAP. IV.

Proceedings of the Commission of survey of the Isthmus, — measurement of a base line on the beach between St. Mateo and Santa Maria. — Examination of the district of Tehuantepec, — Las Ventosas and near the Morro unfit for Anchorages, — trigonometrical operations at San Dionisio, Camotepec, and Juchitan. — Examination of the Upper and Lower Lagoons, — the Bocabarra, VI CONTENTS. PAGE. —the river Ostuta, — its waters to feed the proposed Canal, — the ground north of Chivela, Guichicovi, and Boca de Monte, — first sight of the Coatzacoalcos at Mai Paso, its transparency, firm Clay banks, slow current, — its borders lined with thick woods. — Excur sion down its course to its mouth, — weather then unfavorable for observations. — Visit to Acayucam, — the Jumuapa. — Return to Tarifa, — -Venta de Chicapa, — ground examined from San Miguel to the river del Corte, — the Upper Coatzacoalcos. — Cerro de Albricias, — the view from this fixes the choice for the passage of the Canal over the Gap of Tarifa, — its minute description. — Departure of Capts.

Appendix

. No. 1. Memorial of Don Jose de Garay soliciting the privilege of opening a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans through the Isthmus of Tehuantepec 102 No. 2. Edict ordering the opening of the Isthmus with the grants therein specified, and Contract between the supreme government and Don Jos6 de Garay 104 No. 3. Decree by which the government declares that all lands granted previous to the decree of the 1st of March, both to Natives and Foreigners, and which are neither tenanted, nor cultivated, belong to Don Jose de Garay contents. VIII PAGE. No. 4. Communication from Don J096 de Garay, informing the supreme Government that the survey of the Isthmus was concluded, — and answer to the same from the government. . . . ■ No. 5. Decree granting to Don Jose de Garay, the term of a year, according to his request for the commencement of the works. . . 109 A. observations.

Table I. Latitudes astronomically determined . . Ill „ 2. Geographical positions of the principal points of the Triangulation ...'...." ib. Table 3. Altitudes from Trigonometrical measurements .... 113 ,, 4. Barometrical altitudes ib. „ 5. Heights above the level of the sea on the road from Teliuantepec to Puebla , 114 e GEOLOGY. Catalogue of the Geological collection founded in the Isthmus by the Commission 115 C. statistics. Table I. Notices of the towns and villages in the southern divison of the Isthmus with their population 119 " 2 Notice of the principal Haciendas and Ranchos of the southern division with their number of cattle . . . . 120 " 3 Towns and Villages of the Northern division, population and cattle 121 " 4 Haciendas and Ranchoes of the northern division — population and cattle 122 " 5 Summary of Inhabitants and cattle 123 B. Table of distances to the principal ports in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, compared with voyages to the same, via the Isthmus of Tehuantepec 125 B. Table of various canals in the United States— Canada — France — Holland — and Great Britain .

Preface

. In presenting this account of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec to the Public, the Editors deem it necessary to premise that it has been principally compiled from two reports published in London, in the year 1844, by Sr. Gaetano Moro, the Engi neer, under whose superintendence the Survey was executed ; and it has been their endeavour, in all statements of facts, to give them as near as possible, in the words of Sr. Moro, as found in his publications. They have, however, thought it advisable to re-arrange 'lie materials in their present order, differing in this respect from the work of Sr. Moro. They have omitted such parts as purely described the scientific methods adopted by the engi neers, but the results are carefully preserved in the Appendix, in a tabular form, as given by themselves. The Comparison of the various proposed lines of Commu nication across the American Isthmus has been stated, with some additions, not given by Sr. Moro, but which are ren dered necessary in consequence of a Report by M. Garella, on the Isthmus of Panama, having appeared in the Journal des Debats in Paris, on the loth January, 1846, while this work was still in the press.

The chapter of Estimates of Returns did not appear in Sr. Moro's first work. The materials he collected in his addi tional Report have, however, been made use of by the present Editors, with some modifications. A Comparative Table of Distances which would result from opening a Ship Canal across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, prov ing at one view the palpable advantages of such an enterprise being accomplished, is now given for the first time ; as also a Table of various Canals in different countries, shewing that the proposed Canal of Tehuantepec differs in no extraordinary degree in any of its dimensions of length, depth, breadth, lockage, or summit level to be crossed, from similar works already executed in Great Britain, France, Holland, or the United States — these will be found in the Appendix, such additional information being deemed useful to the public for forming a correct estimate of all the bearings of the present Project now submitted to its judgment for approval.

Introduction

. On inspecting the map of the American isthmus, the idea naturally suggests itself that the narrowest portions of it are those which would probably offer the greatest facilities for the opening of a communication from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, and from this circumstance they have always attracted a greater share of attention. Repeated surveys having, however, proved that under these deceptive appear ances were concealed difficulties almost insurmountable, the public mind has, at last, become accustomed to consider the enterprise as one of the most gigantic. The recent survey of the isthmus of Tehuantepec, ex ecuted under the direction of the engineer Sr. Gaetano Moro, has proved beyond all doubt, the fallacy of this opinion. He was well aware, notwithstanding, that a deeply rooted prejudice is not easily eradicated, and he felt the more anxious, when the truth of the practicability of the work presented itself forcibly to his mind, after the most careful and oft repeated observations, to impart to others the intimate conviction which he felt upon the subject ; and in this spirit he penned his Reports which were published in 1844.

His efforts have not been altogether fruitless — public feeling in favour of a work, anxiously looked for during three cen turies, has been once more revived by the prospect of in creased facilities for its attainment — men of science and prac tical knowledge in various countries, both of the Old and the New world, have given their careful attention to the subject, and freely expressed their unqualified assent to his views through the medium of the public press — and the probabilities of success no longer rest on his bare assertion, unsupported bv the testimony of high authority. It has been seen that the work proposed, far from exceeding the ordinary means of attainment, falls considerably short of such as are the object of daily enterprise, so much so indeed, that it is not even beyond the reach of individual exertion.

The outlay of a comparatively insignificant sum would be sufficient to meet the first expenses and establish in the Isthmus a temporary line of transit. The produce of the country would subse quently furnish the necessary means, to complete the work in a few years. But this would entail a delay to which it is more than pro bable there will be no necessity to submit. Works, which though of great magnitude are of undoubted and acknow ledged public utility, fail only to be undertaken whilst there exists a doubt of their practicability ; the latter once esta blished the execution must follow, sooner or later, in the natural and infallible order of things. The opening of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec is in the number of such under takings ; the question, therefore, is not whether the work can and will be accomplished, but who shall undertake it; and under these circumstances, it should be borne in mind that the nation whose subjects shall have more immediately con tributed to the accomplishment of this great work will natu rally acquire in the Isthmus the largest share of its advantages.

It is, therefore, with a view to incite our countrymen to the undertaking of so great and important an enterprize that the present account of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec is now placed before them, in the firm conviction that the statements therein contained merit every confidence, and which, when more generally known, will be fully appreciated, and receive the patronage of an enlightened and discerning Public.

Chapter I

Advantages of an Oceanic Communication, through the American Isthmus ; and Preference which ought to be given to the Territory of Tehuantepec over those of Panama and Nicaragua. The project of a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, has been the object of scientific investigation ever since the discovery of America, and had always attracted the attention of the Spanish Government during the period that a great portion of that country formed an integral part of the monarchy. Christopher Columbus was the first to estimate the great importance to the whole world of a maritime communication, across the American Isthmus. The advantages that would result from it are indeed so evident, and the lucid observations of Humboldt, are so well known and appreciated, that it appears to be needless to repeat them in this place ; we will there fore only add a few other remarks which will give them a more extensive application.

It is generally acknowledged that if the communication be once effected, all the vessels which from their ultimate desti nation are now compelled to double Cape Horn, would, of course, pursue their route through the Isthmus. It is also admitted, that in consequence of the favourable winds and currents, this voyage would be preferred to that round the Cape of Good Hope, even for vessels proceeding from Europe to China and Japan : but it is believed that it would be by no means equally convenient for their return from China to Eu rope, still less for the voyages to and from the East Indies. If, in order to solve this problem, we were to consider only the positive distance that separates the extreme points of these navigations, only about 1000 miles would be gained in the latter case by following the course through the Isthmus in preference to that at present adopted round the Cape of Good Hope ; but if, on the one hand, we take into consideration the difficulties and dangers to be encountered in this navigation, and on the other the advantages which might be derived from making a halt half way, in a country undoubtedly destined by its natural wealth to the highest future prosperity, as well as the additional and incalculable advantage of being enabled to estimate beforehand the probable length of the voyage, it cannot be doubted for an instant that the course through the Isthmus ought at all times to be preferred.

This opinion, which may now appear doubtful, will certainly cease to be so on that day, probably not far distant, when the progress of mechani cal science will enable the mariner to disregard altogether the uncertainty of the wind, and when that route will be deemed the best which offers the safest navigation. The American isthmus extends from the Gulf of Darien, where it is united to South America, as far as Tehuantepec, where North America may be said to commence. Different parts of this isthmus have appeared to offer advantages in their topographical form, and have invited attention to their fitness for the desired communication. It was however soon observed that only three of these localities were worthy of consideration ; namely, those which from the principal towns in their territory are designated by way of distinction, isthmus of Panama, of Nicaragua, and of Tehuantepec.

In respect to the first of these named places the distance between the two oceans is only 41 miles. It is impossible therefore to examine the map of the American isthmus with out being inclined to consider this point as the most eligible. The distance that divides the two seas is greater at Nicaragua, namely 93 miles, but being intersected by a lake of vast dimen sions, this point would also appear to offer considerable advantages. Lastly, the territory of Tehuantepec, forming a continued line of 136 miles is that whfch upon a superficial examination seems to present the greatest obstacles for the accomplishment of the object contemplated. However, notwithstanding these appearances, as a greater or less distance is not the only circumstance to be considered, it precisely happens in the three above-mentioned instances that the practicability of the work is in an inverse ratio to the short ness of the distance ; and thus, whilst in the present state of our knowledge its execution is apparently impossible at Panama, and attended with immense difficulties at Nicaragua, we find it practicable and easy at Tehuantepec.

The isthmus of Panama has been from the time of the con quest the object of the most diligent investigations, and it is an error to suppose that the Spanish Government never paid any attention to this subject. Unfortunately not one of the explorations which were made offered any satisfactory result, and the silence relative to this subject, which was maintained by the celebrated astronomers who at the close of the last century resided for some time in these regions, is the greatest proof that they had no favourable tidings to communicate to the world upon this important matter. The form and topographical aspect of a country so limited in extent, and which had attracted a considerable share of public attention, could not possibly remain unknown during three centuries, and it was very evident that there were not in either of the two opposite coasts any natural harbours to which the extremities of a canal could be directed.

Ithas been lately asserted that all difficulties had disappeared, and that it would be as easy to construct a canal in Panama as it would be in Holland. The most recent report, however, of intelligent en gineers purposely sent thither to ascertain the facts seems on the contrary to point out the great obstacles which the terri tory presents to an enterprise of this nature ; but even supposing that the topographical aspect of the ground offered no difficulty whatever, there are others quite sufficient to render it impracticable, and which unfortunately cannot be remedied. Monsieur Michel Chevalier, while examining the circum stances which ought to be kept in view in selecting the most appropriate place for an oceanic communication, very justly observes that one of the most important is its salubrity .

He says : " However great might be the saving of time effected by " steering through the Isthmus, it would always be shunned by " vessels if it were to prove a charnel-house." The climate of the isthmus of Panama is acknowledged to be dangerous, a fact confirmed by the accounts of Humboldt and other writers. The fear of its unhealthiness was one of the causes that prevented the assembling of a Congress there, after the emancipation of the States of Spanish America, in order to establish a system .of general policy suited to the interests of the American nations. The same fear prevented the engineers, Lloyd and Falmarc, remaining in the Isthmus a sufficient time to complete the labours of the exploration, which they undertook in 1827 and 1828 by order of General Bolivar. To this grievous cause is likewise to be ascribed the paucity of population and the want of the neces sary means of existence in that isthmus.

The Isthmus of Panama has been lately explored by M. Garella, an Engineer appointed by the French Government, and, (whilst this work was still in the press) the results of his investigations have been given to the public in the Journal des Debate dated the 15th January this year, (1846). The following are the most remarkable facts contained in that Report, and they decidedly confirm the opinions now ge nerally entertained that the cutting of a Ship Canal is an im possibility across the Isthmus of Panama. M. Garella first, gives his opinion that a Ship Canal across the American Isthmus at any of the points spoken of can alone satisfy the wants of Commerce and the just expectations of the civilized World ; but if such a work cannot be accom plished, then he says distinctly that it would be money and pains thrown away to do anything more than to keep open a common well constructed road.

A railroad would be quite preposterous over such an unhealthy country as the Isthmus of Panama. The only interests to be benefitted by such an arrangement might be respectively the mail and passenger steam boats on the Atlantic and the Pacific ; but would not be of the least utililty to the general trade of the world. A railroad would at first sight appear to offer facilities for the transit of goods across the Isthmus, but it at once involves the necessity of every cargo requiring two vessels before it could be delivered at its port of destination, one for the Pacific, the other for the Atlantic. Next, even were that thought no difficulty7, these two vessels must be so exactly timed as to be on the respective sides of the Isthmus on the same day and that would be out of the question to combine for China or New Zealand voyages; nor could such a railway be of the slightest use to the vessels destined for the Fisheries and other traffic over the immense Pacific ocean.

Warehouse-room for goods would have to be provided for an indefinite time on both sides the Isthmus ; passengers would run the risk of fever dur ing this delay ; and although it may be said the mail boat steam ers might almost calculate to an hour their respective arrivals yet even this only takes place once in the month, and how is such a limited traffic to pay the cost of maintaining the rail way the whole year round ? and what is to be the fate of all the officers and workmen who must remain at their posts every day in the year in the deadly marshes of Panama ? Even for the full security of passengers, mails, and treasure, costly harbours must be formed on both coasts which will greatly add to the extravagant expenses ; so that with all these accumulations of charges, difficulties, and dangers, with the tolls of transit, and duties to the government superadded, there would be less expense and risk after all by the old loute of Cape Horn ! therefore Mr. Garella is quite right in asserting that the present mode of transit across the Isthmns of Panama by mules and horses, or perhaps common carriages on a macadam ized road, is all that can be done even for the sole advantage of the mail steam-boats that visit this Isthmus 12 times in the year.

Mr. Garella next proceeds to investigate the possibility of forming a Ship Canal across the Isthmus of Panama, and with out detailing all his plans and calculations, we extract the foils lowing to shew what difficulties such a project has to en counter. Having examined all the passes, he made choice of the route commencing at the little Bay of Vaca de Monte 20 Kilo metres (12 miles) west of Panama, he makes it 54| Kilo metres (34 miles) to the river Chagres ; passing over the gap of Ahogayegua 140 metres (or 460 feet) above the sea level ; and continuing 91 Kilometres (5f miles) in the bed of the Chagres as far as Gatun, he then goes direct to the Bay of Limon a distance of 12| Kilometres (7| miles) being a total of 76 Kilometres (47J miles) from sea to sea. Mr. Garella admits the impossibihty of any supply of water being conveyed to the summit level of the gap of Ahogayegua though it be no more than 140 metres (460 feet) high.

The greatest height to which water could be conveyed by trenches is 41 metres (131 feet). This suggests the necessity of adopting one or other of the following plans. Either to make an open cutting at the gap of Ahogayegua to the level to which water can be conducted which would require locks for every 3 metres of height — there would be on one side lockage for 48 metres, and on the other 54 metres, on account of the difference of tides in the two oceans. Or to pierce a tunnel at the same elevation, of dimen sions sufficient to let ships of 1200 tons burthen pass through with their lower masts standing I of these two projects Mr. Garella inclines to the latter if the public could at all be led to contemplate the possibility of its execution. And these are the dimensions he deems sufficient for the object.

Heightfrom the bottom of Canal to crown of the Arch 37 metres (122 feet.) Breadth 21 „ ( 69 feet.) Total length 5350 metres or 5900 yards. This would further require approaches of open cuttings 45 to 50 metres deep (165 feet). This tunnel M. Garella thinks would be cut through a solid rock of porphyry therefore probably not exposed to the chance of falling in and possibly requiring little or no masonry. However, allowing that this last might cost 14 millions of francs (£560,000), he calculates the total expense of such a tunnel at about 50 millions of francs, or £2,000,000. The two trenches required as water conduits would be of 62 and 37 Kilom. that is 38^ and 23 miles long, and it is further •thought that reservoirs might be formed in the gorges of the neighbouring hills at small expense.

The cost of constructing harbours at Vaca de Monte, and the Bay of Limon enter into Mr. Garella's calculations for the sum of 12 millions, or £480,000. Mr. Garella makes the grand total for the canal, tunnel, conduits, and ports, amount to the sum of 139 millions of francs, or £5,560,000. Upon this statement we have the following observations to make : First, Mr. Garella abandons at once the first project of an open cutting as an impossibility, from the vastness of the dimensions to be excavated, which would be of three times the size of the tunnel, even supposing it to admit of being perpendicularly wall-sided. Secondly, Supposing a tunnel could be cut as stated, all vessels would have to strip their masts and rigging at the port of arrival, and replace them at the port of departure, operations of great difficulty and delay in any place, and dreadful risk of the lives of the crews in such a pestiferous climate as Panama.

Thirdly, The breadth of the proposed tunnel and lockage at tached to it would only accommodate one vessel at a time, and ■sufficient breadth of towing-path is not allowed for ; light and ventilation are not alluded to. Fourthly, The dimensions given by Mr. Garella make the excavation about eight times that of the Box tunnel on the Great Western Railway; and the solid contents of 4,156,950 Cubic Metres, is calculated to cost only 12 francs each Cubic metre. Now we happen to know by long expe rience of mining operations within the tropics, that in cutting through such a porphyry rock as Mr. Garella describes, each Cubic metre would cost at the lowest estimate 60 francs, or 5 times more than Mr. Garella's estimate that is nearly 250 millions of francs, or £10,000,000 for the tunnel alone. J5 Fifthly, The calculation of Mr. Garella takes no account of the time required for the execution of the work ; the expense of conveying European Artizans to the spot, and the heavy sa laries they must receive to compensate the risk of life they run at Panama ; nor the cost of transmission of funds to pay the expenses ; nor the weight of a heavy administration to super intend the works.

It may therefore be taken for proved from Mr. Garella's report ; first, that a railroad over any one of the proposed com munications across the American Isthmus would be profitless to all the world, even to the Atlantic and Pacific Mail Packet Companies; and secondly that the cutting a Ship Canal across the Isthmus of Panama is not only beyond the resources of na tions such as England, France, or the United States, but it may be said to be almost an impossibility. The isthmus of Nicaragua possesses a fertile territory, a healthy climate, and is not deficient in population. Towards the north, the lake of Nicaragua communicates with the Atlan tic by means of the river St. John, and to the south, only a small distance separates this lake from the shore of the Pacific. Thus the isthmus of Nicaragua seems to offer many advantages : but upon a more minute examination there appear many difficulties, and these of an almost insurmountable nature.

From the report published by command of the government of the state of Nicaragua in reference to the exploration of that isthmus, effected during the years 1837 and 1838 by Mr. J. Bailey, it seems that the course of the river St. John with all its windings is about 93 miles in length, six and a half of which are obstructed by four rapids, caused by ledges of rocks stretch ing across the whole width of the river. These obstacles, and the long course of the river were considered such formidable impediments as to suggest the construction of a canal as an easier operation than that of rendering the river itself navigable. Towards the south, a distance of nearly 17 miles between the lake and the Pacific, the territory is occupied by a chain of mountains which, although not very elevated, would occasion works of extraordinary magnitude.

It would be necessary to excavate a considerable portion of it to a depth much greater than has been hitherto customary in works of this kind and throughout more than 3\ miles it would be indispensable to bore the mountains, and open a tunnel of sufficient dimen sions to admit the large vessels employed in transatlantic navi gation. The impossibility of attaining such an object we have already shewn above, in speaking of the proposed tunnel at Pa nama, especially if the nucleus of the chain to be pierced through consists, as well as the Andes of which it forms a part, of gra nite or ancient porphyry, as there is every reason to believe notwithstanding the superficial experiments made by Bailey. On the side of the Atlantic the port of San Juan de Nicara gua, into which the river San Juan empties itself over a bar with only 3 feet water upon it, now only affords anchorage for a few vessels drawing 10 feet water; and could not be formed into a harbour for large ships except at an enormous expense.

The port of St. John south, which would be reached on the Pacific side, is not adequate from its very small dimensions to the required object, and moreover it appears that with the prevailing north and north-east winds its access is not only difficult but even dangerous. In the isthmus of Tehuantepec, the greater part of the dis tance which separates the two seas is occupied on the south by lagoons and extensive plains, and on the north it is traversed by the river Coatzacoalcos ; so that the principal works to be executed woidd be comprised within a space of about 50 miles in length. The present project is the formation of a Ship Canal calculated for the passage of vessels drawing 20 feet water ; it will have excellent ports at its extremities; and the materials for construction cannot be more abundant, superior in quality, or better distributed.