Narrative of a Visit to Brazil, Chile, Peru and the Sandwich Islands during the years 1821 and 1822. With miscellaneous remarks on the past and present state, and political prospects of those countries

Front matter

BRAZIL ■ **AR native OF A ' TO AZiL CHSfl r AN «*B SANrwicn 's : 1WK >V/,i YEARS, J82, ANs ' THE PAST ... ,vlSTD POLITICaI pp.)- ' . . Aft< U IAJI MAT N, Esq n'DON: p CUAflftigS KMtilff; l'ALL MAL. M DCC( TO THE K :rexd CHARLES R. SUMNER, A. M DOMESTI CHAPLAIN TO HIS MAJESTY N AND PREBENDARY OF CANTERBURY Cfita Volume IS INSCRIBED, IN TOKEN OF AFFECTIONATE RESPECT, BY HIS MUCH OBI "R.XEND AND SERVANT, THE AUTHOR London, Jt'NK 22, ( >NTENTS. BRAZIL. CH ->TER I. Page Voyage to Rio Janeiro > .1 Rio Janeiro \ 6 Praya Grande . \ _ .15 Rio Janeiro . . . . . .17 CHAPTEB H. ■Cvriirsion in t1 ■ .19 ' . . 85 • 39, Now Friburgo . 41 ' Swiss Cottagp , . .43 Novo ?ri';urgo j 45 Shooting Excursio. - I 51 Swiss Settlement ' . Emigration to South \ ' " . 111. . 53 5S Excursion into the Inteiio" e-A II _ C ONT El ■> n Page 56 Farm os L.-ivt. s _ , , . bi Contraband Miners • .a 03 lnfluenr 5 of the Mines ' „ , • "^ Canta . . • ._ De^ar*'"- • r~m Canta *"".'.'.: „„ <= u, a '1}< ■ • 69 bwiss W.dow . 71 View near St. Erita . ■ ' . 73 Descnpti-r of -. F: rm-house Rude Manners oF the Itople Intiov. v -'nag , p .

CHAPTER IV.

78 Arrivjj at AWea da Pedra Ro «\ Catholic Missionary • R st Meeting of Indians an* Missionary . Bad Su.eess of Indian Mise-ou~ Tube if pUri India' . • Ind: ' . 90 •• . ■; - -^_ , <n . I Jourt '. Fidele <"•»■ St- * . . 95 FASTER V ' 9? f » Dn' • • 99 Ca- Lat Polit - ions jt • t . . 103 ' -ers ou a Plant .. 105 * • GaraL-let I ■» ■ l°7 Pr^J1 Grande V.- ' CONTENTS. CH TER VI. Pa Excursion to Santa Cruz Palace of Santa Cruz . Wretched Condition of Ae Negroes . . j ; '. Plain r.f Santa Cri.v; • . . . 1 , Sugar >ingenho of Taguahy . I j Scenery near Rio . • . • . 1£:1 CH/PTER VO. *eCO General Surve rJlian History ' Hn1 ation ot _. with Foreigners e the. Portiyuese opuri" Official corruption Administration of .usti-e Revolution at Lisbo- The New Constiti' » • Influence of Pu 3™ion Slag'" tion of Ruptu y Nat'- .

Chapter I. Vcyage, And Rio

_--»XEIRO. ON Sunday May 27, 1821, I sailed from Lisbon in the Vssco da Gama, a Portuguese Indiaman, burden 800 tons, bound to Rio Janeiro,,^'- ''-i. and Macao. Another ship of 600 t jn si »ound to Brazil and the East Indies, , <u_ied rs ; for large merchantmen seldom san -alone, through fear of pirates, who, under South American colours, have, since the Jite war between Brazil and Buenos Ayres, com mittei great depredations on the Portuguese trade. Some vessels had even been captured within sight of the coast of Portugal. The practice has BRAZIL. been to land the crews at Madeira, and to sell the captured vessels in the United States. Indeed, it is well understood that the Americans have generally been the principal agents engaged in this species of "predatory warfare : they act under letters of marque obtained from the Government of Buenos Ayres, while the crews are mostly Ame ricans, or any thing but Buenos-Ayreans.

The Vasco da Gama mounted 20 guns, and her companion, Nossa Senhora da Luz (Our Lady of the Light). of the same force. — On board tKe latter was a Lieuteaant of the Navy, called Commandante, aud emploj^'-i ex pressly to direct our tactics in case of an at tack. Whenever a sail hove in sight, up went the signal for a suspicious vessel • as it approached, the signal for pr. ,.-< sted; the drum beat to quarters; th were were closed ; the females, surgeon, and __iar, sent below ; the men stationed at the guns, with matches ready lighted ; the passengers drawn out upon the quarter-deck — some with muskets, others with sabres, and boarding-pikes; sn_ all, either through ignorance or awkwardness, pre- VOYAGE. sentcd an appearance so grotesque and ill suited to any real engagement, that the scene, stripped of its terrors by needless repetition, became at length positively ludicrous.

When this hap pened to take place at night, the confusion ex ceeded all description ; and the hubbub of voices, the rattling of arms, the gleaming of lanterns, the crying of women and children, and the firirg of signal-guns, added to the general fright in spired by tbe supposed enemy, brought to mind tbe attack made upon Sancho Panza, in his island of Barrataria. The disoider, want of discipline, and alarm, which prevailed on these occasions, were in fact so great, that w . must have fallb.. an easy prey to any' pirate that attacked us ; but fortunately we pursued the even tenor of our way unra tested, and at length safely reached the placp of destination. Previously to the I -volution and establishment f the Cortes in Portugal, it was unlawful for any foreigner to take his passage on board a Portuguese Indiaman.

It may, therefore, be new and interesting to some readers, to know the economy of the ship, and the manner in which B2 BRAZIL. things were conducted. — First in command came the owner, who, not being himself a sailor, merely superintended the business of the equi page generally : under him were three mates, and three junior mates, termed pilotos ; a con \ramestre, or boatswain, who was responsible for *he security of the whole cargo, in addition to hi. other duties ; and a sergeant of marines : a smgeon and friar completed the establishment ; and it may here be observed, that no Portuguese ship of large size sails without one, and of+en with two chaplains. IU^s was performed regularly on Sundays, and vespers said r very Saturday evening. — The effect, at sea, was peculiarly solemn and affecting, when, on a fine moonlight evening in a tropical latitude, the chant of the mariners ro e in wild and not immelodious notes upon the w___rl • all kneeling in apparent dev .ion round the altar. where the priest officiated, - - some telling the beads in silence, others muttering an Ave Maria or Pater Noster, or calling out the responses. with accents hoarse and strange to an Enghsh ear.

Then ever and anon the plaintive chant of VOYAGE. 5 Mater Purissima, ora pro nobis, was sung by the priest below, and re-echoed by those on deck ; and the solemn simplicity of the worship, amid such a scene, and at such a time, spoke at once to the heart and imagination, to the religious and poetical feelings, of the audience. In addition to the officers already enumerated, were two supercargoes, and a number of traders of an inferior class, who were allowed to work their way out as supernumerary servants. The crew, 70 in number, were many of them fine men, but badly disciplined. Each officer carried a cane in his hand, in order to ensure more ready obedience to his commands ; yet the greatest inactivity still prevailed, and the old-fashioned practice of taking in sail at night was rigidly adhered to.

The menage, on board, was abundantly supplied, about a dozen head of bullocks being added to the usual live-stock. The poultry was entirely reserved for the use of the sick among the pas sengers and crew generally, without any distinc tion. The former were numerous, and the ac commodations bad. The passage-money to China was 600 dollars. BRAZIL. On the 3d of June we landed at Madeira, — a place which the characteristic hospitality of its inhabitants would alone have endeared to my remembrance ; but who ever saw, and, having seen, could forget, its gardens and vineyards, and deli cious climate and various picturesque beauties? For a constant residence, its circumscribed limits and small society might render it objectionable : but as viewed in the interval of a long voyage, it seems almost like a fairy isle, purposely made to enchant and gladden the soul of the passing traveller.

On Saturday, the 9th of June, we again set sail, and on the 4th of August entered the harbour of Rio Janeiro. The approach from sea reminded me of the scenery of the Trosachs, near Loch Katrine ; and as I surveyed the precipitous cliffs, and " Crags, knowls, and modnds, confusedly hurl d," and other rugged forms into which this remark able land is broken, it seemed like meeting, in a foreign country, the well-known features of an old friend. Seldom, indeed, can any striking resemblance be traced between tropical and British scenery ; but whenever the imagination does find out kindred ties, when associations long since cherished and beloved are thus accidentally brought to mind, then is the traveller's enthusiasm doubly felt, and the joys of the moment are doubly enhanced in value, by recurrence to days of past happiness ; " For not an image, when remotely view'd, However trivial and however rude, But wins the heart, and wakes the social sigh, With every claim of close affinity."

Such were my reflections upon first approaching this celebrated harbour; but I had no sooner landed, than the novelty of the scene, and the characteristic features of a tropical country, soon banished every recollection of our northern wilds. Few spots in the New World are more deeply indebted to the hand of^ Nature, than the* harbour of Rio ; and all possible combinations of pic turesque scenery are here included in one mag nificent perspective. Since, however, it has been minutely and repeatedly described by other tra vellers, its beauties need not now be particularized; and, for the same reason, a general description will suffice of the town of St. Sebastian. Like other South American cities, it has no pretensions to BRAZIL. magnificence ; nor indeed can it be expected that architecture should have yet attained any great perfection in places of which the founders were needy adventurers, intent only upon the acquisi tion of wealth, and where the common arts of civilized Use are of late and still feeble growth.

Very few towers, domes, or steeples, attract the eye at a distance by their superior height, and no handsome pubhc buildings of any kind adorn the banks. The Government-house, or Palace, and Chapel Royal adjoining, are the principal edifices, and compose two sides of a large square opposite the landing-place. The streets are narrow and filthy ; the churches and convents numerous, but rudely built ; the houses of stone, generally two stories high, with jalousies painted green before the windows : those of the wealthiest inhabitants have sometimes a large portal and court-yards enclosed within. The Bank, Exchange, Custom-house, and Ar senal, are all situated in the RuaDireita, along the water-side, but exhibit nothing remarkable. The latter is in very bad order, and seems to have been as much neglected by the Government as the Navy r itself, which is not sufficiently strong to protect Portuguese merchantmen from the insults of pirates, even within sight of the harbour.

A large public library, consisting principally of histori cal and canonical books, brought by the King from Portugal, is open to the pubhc from ten in the morning till one o'clock, and from four to six in the afternoon. Two or three libra rians are always in waiting, and pay every suit able attention to such as wish to make use of the library. During my visits I noticed very few native Brazilians who availed themselves of this privilege. The Museum in the .Campo St. Anna, a large square in another quarter of the town, was estabhshed, as an inscription over the door testifies, by " His most Faithful Majesty King John VI. the munificent Patron of the Arts:" "Rex Jidelissimus, artium amantissimuss &c. The collection is small, and the specimens of gold and diamonds form the valuable part of it.

One apartment is appropriated to Derbyshire spar, given by Mr. Thornton, the late English Minister, in exchange for Brazilian minerals. The former BRAZIL. is not less prized here than the productions of America are in Europe. Among the objects pointed out as particularly curious, were a stuffed white swan and a httle robin-redbreast, neither of which birds are found in Brazil. No place could be found better adapted for a Museum of Natural History than Rio Janeiro, and few countries present a wider range for scientific research than Brazil. Such, however, is the ignorance of the inhabitants, and so numerous have been the obstacles hitherto placed in the way of foreigners, that the past and present afford httle matter for observation on the advancement of science : to the future we must rather look, and anticipate the day when a wise and beneficial use shall be made of these advantages, for the promotion of philosophy and general knowledge.

The Theatre, like the Museum, owes its erec tion to Royal munificence. The house itself is large, and elegantly fitted up ; the performance tolerable, although destitute of first-rate actors and musicians. Italian Operas, and Portuguese dramas, are alternately represented. The latter appear generally dull, and the unnatural monotony of the recitation is disagreeable to Enghsh ears. The tragedy of Ignez de Castro is considered the most perfect ; and, being founded upon an affecting and well-known event in Portuguese history, it possesses the additional charm of nationality. The theatre is now the only public place of amusement, the bull-fights having been recently discontinued : these, indeed, do not seem ever to have been conducted with the spirit and enthusiasm which formerly marked such exhibitions in Spain and Portugal.

Church processions are among the most com mon and most popular of all diversions. They differ little from those which take place in other Cathohc countries ; but the crowd in the streets, and at the windows of the houses, renders the scene striking, and shows the interest excited by them here. Ladies gladly seize the oppor tunity, which gruff papas and jealous husbands seldom otherwise afford, of showing themselves in pubhc ; and gratify their vanity by displaying a numerous retinue of female slaves, who follow them in file along the streets. Others eye the moving multitude from their own windows, and BRAZIL. throw flowers at their admirers below. Soldiers and officers, arrayed in gaudy uniforms, strut with affected dignity amid the populace ; and official characters here ostentatiously exhibit their ribands, stars, crosses, &c. Noisy, and often drunken negroes, fill up the picture, and enjoy a short cessation from their labours ; while a few pious persons, in detached groups, gaze upon the sacerdotal show, and cross their breasts, or say a hasty Pater Noster, as the procession passes by.

Here and there a foreigner may be seen in the crowd, half enjoying, half despising the spectacle, while he gratifies his curiosity by observing na tional manners, and these characteristic features of the people. When a traveller first lands at Rio, his attention will be naturaUy attracted by the appearance of the negroes. Their colour, to which the eye of a European cannot for a long time become fami liarized — their savage and uncouth countenances, generaUy tattoed, or their naked limbs, only suffici ently covered to answer purposes of bare decency — their barbarous language, and noisy vociferations — the wild melody of their national airs, (if the term may be used,) which they almost invariably sing while at work — the clanking of chains, and the iron coUars worn by criminals or runaways in the streets, — these, and other peculiar emblems of bar barism and misery, aU concur in exciting surprise, horror, and disgust.

The canoes and boats, which ply about the shipping, and between the two sides of the Bay, are manned by the same uncivihzed beings, one mulatto or white man sitting at the helm. They are ever ready to profit by any op portunity of plunder ; and it is accordingly con sidered unsafe to trust oneself alone, or unarmed, in their power at night. Not long after my arrival, I had an opportunity of being present at a splendid ball and supper, given by the officers of the Portuguese army, at the Theatre, in honour of the Constitution. The Prince and Princess graced the festivities of that evening with their presence ; but, according to etiquette, only as spectators. The dress and appearance of the ladies at this baU deserved ad miration. Many wore a vast profusion of jewels ; but beauty, with some few striking exceptions, was infinitely less observable.

The gentlemen all BRAZIL. wore uniforms, or Court dresses ; and the stars and orders with which the majority were decorated, seemed so numerous and inappropriately bestowed, as to border on the ridiculous. Not so, however, thought they ; and not so thought the ladies, who bestowed their smUes and hands with such partiality on this bespangled gentry, that the poor Englishmen present might have envied the possession of similar decorations, if it were only to avert the fate which awaited them of being left completely in the back-ground. Many boys, apparently not more than twelve or fourteen years old, wore tawdry sUk Court dresses and stars, which had been obtained in the usual way. Young girls, also, of nine or ten years of age, or stiU less, were there, magnificently arrayed ; and seemed to be as perfect adepts in the arts of flirta tion and coquetry, as older and more experienced beUes.

Among the officers present were several who belonged to a negro regiment ; and the con trast between their black countenances and fine white uniforms, of which they seemed not a httle proud, made a striking addition to the novelty and ludicrous features of the entertainment. PRAYA GRANDE. Soon after my arrival, I took up my residence at Praya Grande, a viUage on the eastern side of the Bay, for the sake of more quiet and comfort able quarters than could be found in the town of Rio. The distance across the water is four mUes. There is the convenience of a steam passage-boat, set up by an American, which passes between this viUage and Rio twice a day. Here many of the inhabitants retire during certain months of the year, for the advantage of sea-bathing. It is cer tainly a very agreeable place ; and the aspect of the country, every where beautiful, is enlivened by neat viUas and plantations.

The houses are seldom more than two stories high, with white washed waUs, red-tUed roofs, and porticos in front. The walks and rides in the neighbourhood are charming, particularly in the evening, when the rays of the setting sun gUd the waters of the bay, and aU nature seems to revive from the effects of excessive heat, under the refreshing influence of the breeze. The view from the heights above the viUage is peculiarly fine. The eye glances with rapture over the fertile vaUeys below, and the noble ex- BRAZIL. panse of water, chequered by boats and shipping in aU directions. The town of Rio itself, flanked by the lofty Corcovado, or Hump-backed Mountain, on one side, and Sugar-loaf Rock on the other, next enters into the perspective, which is terminated by the huge forms and clouded summits of the Serra dos Orgoas.

But if inanimate objects are so delightful to the senses, the living are not less worthy of admi ration. A great variety of birds, of beautiful plu mage, people the groves ; and the buzz of the tiny humming-birds, here caUed beja flores (kiss-flowers), as they glance among the orange blossonis, in search of " hquid sweets," add to the general har mony. Swarms of insects, also, fiU the air and surface of the earth. As night approaches, my riads of fire-flies take the place of those which sport only in the genial rays of the sun, and their vivid emissions of light, whilst darting amid the foliage, produce an effect which, in more ignorant times, might easUy have been attributed to supernatural causes. The monotonous hum of the tree-frog is then heard, continuing without inter- RIO JANEIRO. mission during the night, while no other sound disturbs the solemn and universal silence.

None but those who are used to tropical cli mates, can imagine the feelings which such scenes inspire in the breasts of travellers recently arrived from Europe. After residing a month at Rio and its immediate neighbourhood, I felt desirous of seeing a little of the interior of the country ; and accordingly determined to visit the Swiss colony established at Moro Quemado ; the ancient mining station at Canta GaUo ; and the Ilha da Pedra, a settlement of Indians on the banks of the river Parayba. The Swiss colony I was most particularly an xious to visit, from its being the first attempt made in this part of South America to introduce foreign European settlers in the capacity of farmers and labourers. The account I received of it was this : a plan was first contrived and laid before the King, by a Swiss gentleman, and received the approbation of His Majesty, who spared no pains nor expense to carry it into effect.

In Switzerland, where the c BRAZIL. people are naturaUy enterprizing, and fond of emi gration, the plan was eagerly embraced, and many persons in good circumstances left their homes with the expectation of quickly reaUzing large fortunes. Some skilful mechanics, and men of all trades, volunteered to join the party; but the majority were taken indiscriminately from the lowest classes of society. The accommodation on ship-board must have been very defective and bad; for, out of 1500 persons, who left their native country, and were embarked in HoUand, no fewer than 300 died during the voyage out, and many others soon after their arrival in Brazil. The remainder were immediately sent up the country, and estabhshed as a regular colony at Moro Quemado, the place above mentioned, to which I was now about to proceed.

Chapter II. Excursion In

THl. INTERIOR. Having hired a Swiss servant, who acted as guide, and taken with me a. stock of necessary provisions, a gun, &c, I left Praya Grande, in a boat manned by six negroes, on Tuesday, Septem ber 23, 1821 ; and, after a pleasant passage of about three hours, reached the mouth of the Ma cacou, the largest of the eleven smaU rivers which discharge their waters into the Bay at its northern extremity, fourteen miles distant, in a straight hne, from the town of Rio. In coming to this place, we passed by Gover nor's Island, (Ilha du Gouvernador,) by far the largest of the many islands of the Bay. It extends along the Eastern bank, and is about six miles in length, and two and a haff broad. On it are two large sugar plantations. The soil is said to be extremely fertile. It was formerly a royal prec BRAZIL. serve, abundantly stocked with game ; but the right of sporting is now thrown open to the pubhc, the exclusive privileges osthe Crown having been given up since the proclamation of the late Por tuguese Constitution.

The river Macacou, at its mouth, is about the breadth of the Thames at Windsor. The navigation extends to a distance of thirty mUes for large market-boats, of which we passed several on then way to Rio, laden with the produce of the interior. This consists chiefly of coffee, sugar, rum, maize, tobacco, and charcoal, and furnishes employment to the inhabitants of three vUlages, namely, Maca cou, Porto das Caxas, and ViUa Nova, situate on the banks of the river. The last-named viUage, where we stopped, is about ten mUes distant from the embouchure. We arrived there at about four o'clock. An EngUshman, who keeps a smaU retail shop, and a wharf, for the accommodation of muleteers and negroes, furnished me with the best lodging his house could offer ; but bad was the best, for such heat and filth, and annoyance from the mos quitoes, I had never before experienced.

In the evening my landlord and I walked together through the village to his own dweUing-house, which was more comfortable, and returned at night. He went about armed with a dirk, and pocket-pistols ; and he said, that the revengeful feelings entertained by many persons whom he had disobliged in the course of business, rendered every possible precaution necessary. Private assassina tions, it seems, are not uncommon, and are seldom punished, unless the friends of the deceased are able and wilhng to bring the offending party to justice, for Government alone does not prosecute such offences. At this place I hired two mules, at the rate of three patacas or 4s. 6d. a-day each, and started on my journey the following morning. September 4. — We traveUed slowly, and reached Porto das Caxas, a viUage six mUes distant, before three o'clock.

Here the embarkation of country produce for the capital is conducted upon a far more extended scale. We observed numbers of mules, with their attendant muleteers, passing and repassing continuaUy, many parties of them tra velling together for the sake of mutual protection. Each mule carried two paniers, made of cow- BRAZIL. hides, and fastened over the back upon a kind of saddle made of the same materials. The subordinate drivers are commonly negroes, or Brazilian Creoles of the lowest class ; but the master mule teers are persons of some consequence, particularly in their own estimation, which they show by riding together, in a separate group, at a suitable distance from the cavalcade. They are often part-owners, and very rich, trading on their own account, or conveying large sums of money en trusted to their charge.

The prevailing costume of these people deserves a separate description. They wear broad-brimmed black hats, with low crowns, and tied by a riband under the chin ; velveteen jackets and waistcoats, of different colours — blue, purple or red, and metal buttons ; cloth and hnen trowsers, and high black gaiters, buttoning above the knee : a blue cloth cloak or mantle, simUar to those used in Por tugal, and sometimes fined with red, is thrown negligently yet gracefully over the shoulders, and renders the tout-ensemble reaUy picturesque. Let a figure, thus equipped, be supposed mounted on a mide, with a high-peaked Portuguese saddle, and stirrups, and a formidable brace of horse pistols and holsters. Let a long pointed knife also be supposed half concealed about some part of the person or saddle, (for without such a weapon always at hand no man would feel easy or secure), and the picture of a BrazUian master muleteer wiU then be complete.

When I afterwards happened on the road, and at inns, to mix famiharly with these people, the vast importance which they arrogated to themselves was quite ridiculous ; though it must be confessed, that a traveller has to put up with many mortifications from their repulsive manners, and the conscious air of superiority with which they treat his attempts to enter into conversation with them for the purpose of gaining useful information. They appear very suspicious of strangers, and always answer questions by questions in return. Being themselves deceitful, they suppose others to be equaUy so, and would never believe that I traveUed from motives of mere curiosity. Professions to that effect, when made, were laughed at by them; and they often inquired what sort of merchandize I came to seU. I soon BRAZIL. discovered that it was imprudent to intrude upon large bodies of these people, for fear of positive insult ; but with one or two I felt less awkward, and the offer of a dram had a wonderful effect in managing their churhsh and incommunicative dispositions.

To sum up their character in a few words, — I should say that they are close, cunning, and revengeful, covetous of money, and passion ately addicted to gambling ; but honest to their employers, tenacious of their word, sober, strong headed, and active in mind and body. The vUlage of Eorto das Caxas itself offers nothing remarkable. It consists almost entirely of vendas, or small taverns, for the accommodation of muleteers ; together with a few shops, containing such articles of foreign manufacture as the mule teers might be tempted to purchase on their return home. British cotton goods and hardware, cloths and hats, appeared to constitute the bulk of their stock in trade. The country around is flat, and partiaUy inter spersed with plantations of sugar, mandioca, and maize. In the evening, about six o'clock, we reached a place called Ponte da Rosa, distant one league and a half, or six miles, from Porto das Caxas.

No better accommodation could be procured than was afforded by a small mud hut, kept by a negro for the use of muleteers travelling that road. No bribes, nor remon strances, nor soft speeches, coidd induce the mis tress of a neighbouring venda, or shop, to open it in the absence of her husband : — she recon noitred us from the window, without even exposing her face ; and, except through the inter ference of our negro host, we should have been unable to procure the few necessaries we wanted. This apparent inhospitaUty is merely the effect of the extreme jealousy which is every where prevalent among the Brazilian Creoles. — Having found pasturage for our mules, we managed to sleep upon benches extended on two stools in the negro hut, with that comfort which nothing but fatigue could have rendered tolerable.

September 5. — This morning, soon after day break, we again started on our journey, Fahren heit's thermometer being at 70°. We immediately entered a fine open plain, bounded by the Organ Mountains, and pursued our journey to a BRAZIL. smaU viUage, prettUy situate on the banks of the river Macacou, where we stopped to breakfast ; and about noon came to the Fazenda do Col legio, a large sugar plantation. A spacious edifice, with projecting wings, formed one side of a quadrangle, comprising the dwelling-house of the proprietor, the chapel, the apartments of the negroes, and the engenho or boiling-house, with suitable store-rooms. The number of slaves em ployed here was stated at 100. We saw several rudely constructed carts, drawn by oxen, the wheels and axle-trees of which turned round together with a very discordant noise.