Travels in Russia, the Krimea, the Caucasus, and Georgia

Front matter

I TRAVELS IN RUSSIA, fye. fye. fye. London : Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New- Street- Square. TRAVELS IN RUSSIA, THE KHIMEA, THE CAUCASUS, AND GEORGIA. By ROBERT LYALL, M.D. F.L.S. MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON; OF THE WERNERIAN NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY OF EDINBURGH; CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, AND OF THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY, OF MANCHESTER ; MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL SOCIETIES OF AGRICULTURE AND NATURAL HISTORY, AND OF THE PHYSICO-MEDICAL SOCIETY, AT MOSCOW J &C. &C. &C. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND; AND W. BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH. 1825.

Preface

. A year ago, when I published " The Character of the Russians, and A Detaded History of Moscow," I expressed the deepest solicitude with respect to the reception of that work by the British public, whose character and opinion I shall ever venerate. I also stated, that by its judgment I must decide, whether or not I should continue my literary labours. Encouraged by the kind reception of that volume, I soon afterwards published, " An Account of the Organization, Administration, and Present State of the Military Colonies in Russia," a pamphlet which met with general notice. Animated to new exertions, by a VI

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. these circumstances, I again venture to solicit indulgence for the present volumes. I owe it as a duty to myself to state, that whilst I have been publicly accused of severity to the Russians, my best friends have blamed me for partiality towards them, and "overstrained en deavours to advocate their cause;" and that of the two divisions of the Quarto, the first, " The Character of the Russians," has been chiefly ap proved at home ; while the second, " A Detailed History of Moscow," has been most distinguished on the Continent. After a residence of a number of years in Rus sia, and having become familiar with the language, the customs, and the manners of its inhabitants (i. e. the real Russians), I most ardently sought an opportunity of travelling through the south of that extensive empire.

I had even made consider able preparations fbr such a journey, by examining and translating the best Russian accounts of the country, towns, villages, &c. which I calculated on seeing. While almost despairing to accomplish

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. VII this purpose, my desire was unexpectedly gratified. Two Italian noblemen, Marquis Pucci and Count Salazar, and an English gentleman, Edward Pen rhyn Esq. who arrived at Moscow in 1822, being about to undertake a journey to the southern pro vinces of Russia, and being desirous of engaging a person to accompany them, who might remedy the inconvenience they apprehended from not understanding the language, and supply the want of medical advice in a country where the pre valence of intermittent fevers might render it particularly necessary, I was engaged by the party in the double capacity of conductor of the journey and physician. In justice to these gentlemen, as well as to myself, I ought to state that they made no contributions to my MSS. The observations and opinions are my own, and I beg to have it distinctly understood, that I alone am responsible fbr every sentence in the work.

This I think it necessary to declare, because the Em peror Alexander has expressed his disapprobation of my Quarto ; and said, that " it is hostile to Russia, and written against his government, and the whole Russian nation :" and because His a

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. Imperial Majesty is also highly otfended at my having dedicated that work to him. But I can con scientiously say that no individual feels less of hos tility to Russia than I do, and whoever has read that volume with an unbiassed mind, will be of opinion that I have been most anxious to do justice to the Russians. While I have boldly spoken my mind with regard to their imperfections, their errors, and their vices, I have not withheld my esteem for their virtues or their good qualities. I have uniformly protected virtue and religion, and as regularly held up immorality and wicked ness to ridicule and detestation. If, from the facts recorded in " The Character of the Russians," and in these volumes, the public should be of opinion, contrary to me, that the sum total of vice — if I may so express myself — which attaches to this people, is as great as Dr. Clarke represented, I most seriously beg that they will, at least, remark, that I have placed their deficiencies and vices in their proper places, whilst I have ad mitted every redeeming light, to enliven the gloomy groundwork of the picture. I formerly pleaded impartiality and truth, and if in their cause, I

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. IX have not obtained the good opinion of His Impe rial Majesty Alexander, I am sorry for it. I should have been highly pleased with the approbation of a Sovereign who may be esteemed the greatest blessing and ornament of his country. * The disapprobation of my works by the Rus sians was expected. I, of course, allude to the higher classes of society. The mass of the popu lation, the peasantry, will probably never hear, of my name, although they have attracted much of my attention. Their condition, as slaves, will ever deeply interest the Christian, the philan thropist, and the statesman, and I flatter myself that I have represented it in a new and true light. The present work is entitled, " Travels, &c." but it ought to be mentioned, that, besides the observations made en route, I have inserted many others which I had accumulated previous to the journey, and, besides, I have added some intelli- * Vide his character, &c. p. 420. of Vol. X

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. gence received since my arrival in London, above a year ago, as well as alluded to different com munications which have appeared in the public gazettes; so as to bring up our knowledge of Russia to the present day. As I formed one of a party, I have often used the pronoun we, because it seemed unnatural or affected to use the first personal pronoun singular, while others were present. On other occasions I put we, because I suppose that the reader accom panies me, and joins in my opinion. But whether we or / be used, it must always be understood that I advance my own sentiments. In the orthography of Russian words, I have followed the rules laid down in the " Preliminary Dissertation on the Russian Language," which precedes the " History of Moscow." The grand regulation, which I have adopted, has been to combine such letters of the English alphabet as shall produce, as nearly as possible, the sound of the original words, most of which I have accented, so as to be still more useful to the traveller.

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. XI I could have wished that our journey had been of longer duration, but, at the same time, it must be remembered, that travelling in Russia is not like traversing the classic ground of Greece and Italy, or even most countries of Europe, in which objects worthy of description continually present themselves. With the exception of the Krimea, and the opposite shores ofthe Cimmerian Bosphorus, we met with little that recalled associations with the Greeks or the Romans. Interesting objects lie widely scattered in the vast empire of Russia, and the traveller is generally contented to gallop over the ground which separates them with all possible rapidity. I cannot conclude this Preface, without ex pressing my gratitude fbr numerous marks of kindness and attention to many individuals in Russia, whose names it would be imprudent to mention.

Russian hospitality I can never forget, and to Russian liberality I am indebted for much information. Those who have placed their secrets, and perhaps their happiness, in my hands may rest assured that they shall never be betrayed. In as

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. far as respects the Russians, I bear them no ill will, though I like but few of them. I shall always remember their good as well as their bad qualities, and I sincerely wish their reformation. Every Christian bosom must desire their improvement in morals, the best evidence to man of a well-founded religion. ROBERT LYALL. 45. Haymarket, London, December 24. 1824. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. Page