South African Traits

Chapter I

Down the Atlantic. Departure from a London Dock — Dartmouth — Exciting Scene — An odd Prescription — A Contrast — A Surprise — Madeira by Night — What Next .—Tropical Thunder-storm — Sunset at the Equator — A Victim of Comic Situations — St. Helena and Napoleon — Table Bay — Cape Town — Characteristics,

Chapter II

The Athens of South Africa. The Origin of a Name — Simon Van der Stell — A Peep into the Past — Picture of the Present — An unknown School of the Prophets — Professor Murray — Gruff H umility — Professor Hofmeyr — Geniality and Enthusiasm — A Temperance Battle — Professor Marais — A Man of Strong Points — The College and Gymnasium — An Examining University — The Altar of the Cape — Academic Repose- -The Siesta — How to maintain Social Equilibrium, ........

Chapter III

Student Life, Unwonted Impressions— The Embryo Africander Student— The Student's Retreat — A Disciple of Thales — Mixed Nationality Contents. II PAGE —The Desire of Knowledge— Choice Spirits— " The Loll" — A Deceptive Silence— Soft Sensibility— The Polyhymnia- Wanted, Rules of Procedure— The " Proef Preek "—The Great Occasion— " Oom Jappie "— Cloetesdale— The South African Gladstone— Politics versus Tennis— The Temple of Bacchus— A Converted Pessimist— The Virtues of Wine— Unique Excursioning, .......... 38

Chapter IV

Daniel Gezani. A Black Pace — A Rescued Slave Boy — Daniel Gezani — The Grace of Almighty Africanderdom — A Touchy Point — An Engaging Presence — The Fingos — Lovedale — The Budding Kaffir Mind — In a Labyrinth — Dogma and Poetry — Cruel Prejudice — Disappointed Hopes — A quiet Tragedy, ..... 5&

Chapter V

The Riviera of the Cape. Scenery — Climate — The South-Easter — The Suburbs of Cape Town — Simon's Town — Somerset West — Caledon — Malmesbury — Worcester — Quiet Resting Places — The Com Farm — The Wine Farm — A Farm House — The "Stoep" — Large Families —The Day's Routine— Women Kind— At the "Kerk"— Old-fashioned Customs — Wine-making — The Wine Industry, 69

Chapter VI

The Huguenots — An Adventure and a Study. A Winter's Ramble — The Deity's Mismanagement — A Worshipper at his Forefathers' Shrine — An Impassioned Speech — Huguenot Emigration to South Africa— The Wanderer's Refuge — Sufferings — Touching Reflections — A Hospitable Home Lo ut cuts. iii — Reminiscences of an Octogenarian— A New " Cottar's Satur day Night"— Frenchhoek— Pierre Siraond— An Exciting Mo ment—Mount Sinai— The Paarl— The Patriot— Wellington— " The Huguenot Seminary "—Traits— A Theodicy, . . 86

Chapter VII

Picnicing and Lovemaking. The Genesis of Love — A National Amusement — Africander Beauties — Baron von Hiibner — The Africander Youth — A Fashionable Watering Place — High Life — Pious Diversions — Hottentots and Malays — Merrymakings and Character — The Consummation — The wooin' o't in the Interior, . . . 105

Chapter VIII

Winter Scene. -Change of the Seasons — A Good Word for Winter — The Paradise of Flowers — "A Silent Spot among the Hills" — A Grotto and Waterfall — A Song of Nature — A Princely Old Man — A Feeling — A Magnificent Panorama, ...... 120

Chapter IX

Night on the Mountains. The Mountains of South Africa — A Hunting Party — Baboons and Evolution — The Klipspringer — Songless Birds — A Cape Sunset — The Tale — Moonlight— Resemblances and Contradictions — — A Revelation — The Storm, ....... 130

Chapter X

Character and Nature. A Long Vacation — Parvenus — Cape Agulhas — Mossel Bay — A Geological Squabble — Braak River — A Horrified Hottentot — Contents. IV AGK 184 201 All Africander Home — George Town — Topics of the Day — Ex cursion to Keiman's River — A Sylvan Temple — Oom Coos' Elephant Story — A South African Hanibal— Montague Pass — A Devotional Boer— Kamnatie — A Kaffir Concert — Oudtshoorn — A Boer Schoolmaster — A Mishap — Meiring's Poort — Homewards, ........... 142

CHAPTER XL

Over the Karoo. A Love-sick Student — The Bokkeveld — Beaufort — The Post Cart — The Karoo — The Mirage — Astray — Skirmish with Wandering Jews — Port Elizabeth — The English Idea — Cradock — Boer Life — The Orange River — The Doppers — "Oom van Donder " Shooting Fish — Bushman Art — Ostrich Hunt — Deer Hunt — Ventersdorp — A Country Wedding, ..... 1C6-

Chapter XII

Through many Lands. East London — Landing in a Basket — Pondoland — Natal — Durban — Maritzburg — Self-Government — A very Mixed Company— The Garden of South Africa — A Contrast — Newcastle — Society — Dust Storm — A Kaffir Kraal — A Mission Station — Snakes — Zululand— Basutoland— The Free State— The Transvaal,

Chapter XIII

Our Battles with the Boers. Pride before a Fall— Sir T. Shepstone and Annexation— The Bronkhorst Spruit Disaster — Battle of Lang's Nek — A Deadly Shooting Match— Majuba Hill— Independence— The Reputation of the Boers — The Nemesis of a Great Orator, Contents. V

Chapter XIV

Slaveryand Serfdom. PAGE The Odium of Slavery — A Slave Tragedy — The Hottentots — The Bushmen — Bushmen Extermination — A heroic Savage — Ancient Boer Brutality— Mission Locations— Hardships— Dr Philip — Emancipation — Bondage Defunct, .... 21&

Chapter XV

Civilisation and War. Progress and Friction— The Kaffirs— Stockenstroni— Speech of Ktsikana— Makana— Maqoma— "The War of the Axe" — A Kaffir Tradition — The Auckland Massacre— Sir George Grey — A Disastrous Prophecy — Present Position — Is our Advance Justifiable '......... 2'6'S

Chapter XVI

Heroism and Tragedy. A Characterless Land — " A Subject for an Epic " — In Search of the Promised Land— Chaka — Pieter Retief — A Modern Regulus — Boer Heroines — Piet Uys — Filial Heroism — Pretorius — A terrible Combat — A Mournful Discovery — Dingan and Panda — Gert Maritz — Moselekatze — Moshesh — Free State Independence — British Vacillation — Diamonds — The Death of a Patriarch — Boer Exclusiveness — The Makapan Tragedy — President Burgers — Self-Governinent Lost and Won, 247

Chapter XVII

The Africander Bond and the Empike League. The Resurrection of the Boer Instinct — The Manufacture of a Nation — The Philosophy of the National Striving — An Auda- Contents. VI J'Ar.K cious Idea — Fervid Patriotism — Interest in Affairs — Stump Orators — Weak Points — Affiliated Nationality — The Empire League — Mr. Froude's Mistakes — Boer versus British Native Policy, 2(17

Chapter XVIII

Boer Intellectual and Religious Life. A Renaissance — Character of Boer Intellect — Great Names Associated with the Cape — Materials for a Literature — The Synod at Cape Town — The Kerk — Sacrilege — The Pastory — Stipends — Church Services — Pulpit Eloquence — Huis Bezoek — Large Parishes— Nature and the Religious Sentiment — Credulity — Quacks — Nachtmaal, . . . . . . . .277

Chapter XIX

Christianity and the Coloured Man. An ancient Mission Village — The Soldier and the Missionary — South Africa as a Mission Field — Herr Kronlein — M. Colliard — Dr Stuart — Mr Mackenzie — Van der Kemp — Philip — Livingstone— Moffat— The Christian Kaffir— "Their Evil Report "— The Witch Doctor — Difficulties of Missions, .... 289

Chapter XX

, Past and Present. Progress — The Diamond Fields— Bankruptcy — The Goldfields Excitement — Zululand — Politics — The Queen's Jubilee — The Future, .........._ 29(5

Chapter I. Down The Atlantic

•i&fvV^£i-r>''J *s an a-nima-^e(^ scene as a great ship prepares '•^st^ W- *° 'eave a London Dock, bound for some l'JT&5&&g^\ distant land. There is the rattle of the iKgSajjJwj^ steam winches, the tumbling of cargo and ■"■** ' "™ 1 ■ luggage on board, the hurrying about of all kinds of officials, — from the porters and stewards up to the purser and captain, — the crowds of loiterers and passengers' friends, with an expression of face ranging from mere curiosity to intense interest, and lastly, the passengers themselves, of all classes and both sexes — an excited, affected, demonstrative crowd. Presently the general noise and bustle subside, the voices of captain and officers re sound, the cables are loosed, the screw begins to revolve, and the great steamer glides from the wharf, with its precious burden, out into the river, all heedless of cheers, and pained glances of farewell, and many a tear and prayer.

Iron will not sympathize, and British steamers are made of iron, and so are the hearts of their stern commanders. Thus the Dunrobin Castle glided out of the noise and smoke of London, on a dull afternoon in the month of A August, 1881, bound for the Cape of Good Hope. She was crowded with passengers, who, by the time she had anchored at Gravesend for the night, had got over the first ruffle of the excitement of departure, and had furnished to the quiet observer, who had had nothing to part from on the wharf yonder, and had taken the matter calmly, renewed illustra tion of the evanescence of human sentiment. Give them a good evening meal, and they look as absorbed as if there were no other experience in the world but the joyous one of choice and abundant eating. With the morrow came the renewed excitement of a second departure, which again cost a few tears and brought out some other signs of sorrowful sentiment, as we steamed away for Dartmouth, where, after a lively sail down chan nel, we arrived the next day.

Who has not felt a thrill of pleasant emotion in his soul, when ushered from a choppy sea and threatening clouds into the beautiful natural harbour of Dartmouth — its en trance graced by a venerable ivy-covered church, and guarded by a scarred old castle ? The little bay might pass for a Swiss lake, and the peaceful, scattered town, lying snugly at the base of the green hills, reminds one of Montreux or Clarens, with their verdant environs. It is a great contrast to our surroundings of yesterday, in that muddy dock, with gaunt warehouses, screeching engines, and hurrying crowds on every side ; but nature is rich in con trasts, and in coincidences too. Hence the thought of Clarens, with a thousand delightful associations, which give living interest to this strange place. To the eye that has seen much and has learned to notice the resemblances of places and things, there is little in this small planet that is un familiar.

Pleasant memories make old experiences, old friends, old thoughts start up on the slightest provocation, and one feels on familiar ground almost everywhere. Twenty-four hours were spent at Dartmouth, embarking passengers and waiting for the mails. During this time a high wind had sprung up, causing a very rough sea outside the little bay. The prospect, as we steamed from our quiet moorings towards the open ocean, was thus not very in viting, but attention was for some time diverted from it by a somewhat exciting incident. Just after the last whistle had sounded and the ship had parted from the buoys, it was discovered that two ladies and two gentlemen, who had accompanied their friends on board, had not left the vessel at the required time. Their consternation may be imagined when they felt themselves moving, and perceived that the last boat for the shore was already some distance off.

Their attempts to get off only called forth, on the part of the passengers, expressions of mingled amazement and amusement. All such were of course bootless, and they had to wait until the ship had got some distance out, when they were taken off in the pilot's boat. But their transfer, from a big steamer to a small boat in a rongjli sea, was a difficult task. The waves were so hk'h that the little boat mounted one moment almost to the rail of the vessel, the next sank deep down into the hollow. The sailors lifted one of the ladies, and waiting till the boat came up, dropped her into it. The second lady was seized in like manner and was about to be sent after her companion, but the boat did not rise this time high enough, and the poor woman was held hanging above the furious sea until it was pitched up to the required height.

After some parrying and aiming, the gentlemen being tossed in almost heels over head, the little cobble was set adrift, to find its way back through the waves, whilst the screw impelled our good vessel seawards. The sea became rougher the further we proceeded. Great waves with white crests rolled up to, and often over, us. Sometimes they were flattened out in the surrounding sea, and appeared to smile a mischievous smile as if they had collided by mistake. But if they left the vessel uninjured, this could not be said of the passengers. One by one a large number of the ladies disappeared, pale and wretched, and many even of the sturdier sex were in no better plight. At six o'clock dinner only a small party gathered round the doctor, and enjoyed the excellent meal. One droll character had an original remedy, which the sufferers, who were made acquainted with it, may have found alleviating.

If so, it should be known to the public. " Keep the bowels open," said he, "and read the Scriptures, and you will be all right." To us who remained well it was a splendid pleasure to let imagination ride on the wings of the wild wind, and be conscious of the full animation of the storm. Burns liked to rove through the woods and by the shore when the tempest was raging, and to him who has this sympathy with the savage strength of nature, the open sea is the place for its exercise. Stand, after night has fallen, and survey the driving clouds and peeping stars, and the widely moved mass around you, and you must be a very pitiable creature if you do not feel devotion of some sort. We had watched the coast of England until it seemed like a hair and then disappeared. We had turned away, and looked toward the ocean and the future, which should bring it in sight again.

On awakening next (Saturday) morning we were in the Bay of Biscay, and remained in it all that day too, as we felt to our cost. It was not at its best, but wild enough to be terrible, and, to weak sailors, very unpleasant. Sunday morning brought us in sight of land again — the coast of Portugal. The weather had become most genial — a warm sun and lovely sea. We did not find Sunday especially irksome, with a service conducted by a clergyman of the Church of England, such a beautiful sea to admire, and with books and fresh thoughts to engage the mind. One whole day would not have been too long to exhaust all the beautiful impressions, which ever poured in upon us from our environs — rich sky, balmy air, and laughing water. It was no task to be devotional, and our religion embodied both nature and revelation that Sunday.

Now and then something -would amuse. One of our berth companions was this morning shaving as coolly as on land, enjoying the while the mild whiff of air through the open port-hole, when suddenly a wave, bigger than usual, dashed up against the open window and politely saved him the trouble of washing his face. Its courtesy did not stop there, however, for it discharged itself upon the recumbent figure of our other companion, an old gentleman, still in the embrace of Morpheus, and made a journey to the bath-room unnecessary for one morning. Which favours it did not so generously confer without strong remonstrances and many murmurs of surprise. It accorded well with our dreamland feeling to stand at the stern in the starlit evening and watch the beautiful display of phosphorus. It seemed like looking at a second firmament, animated with showers of meteors — great balls of coloured flame knocked up to the surface by the screw, and then flattening themselves out for a few seconds, with varied colours, disappearing in the foaming track behind.

Tuesday was passed in the pleasant expectation of seeing Madeira. Towards its close, and about six hours before arrival, we descried through the distant haze something resembling a black shadow cast upon the clouds. On nearer approach, it turned out to be a rocky, mountainous island, thrown abruptly out of the sea, and resembling somewhat the Esterel Mountains, as they rise out of the Mediterranean near Cannes. This is the island of Porto Santo. Fragments of rock, some of considerable size, others of the size of large boulders, rose above the surface of the surrounding sea, much in the same way as the masses of stone which have fallen from a mountain lie at its base. This formed a very pretty scene. On the largest island there are several small valleys, which produce the grape, orano-e, and other fruits, and also many kinds of vegetables.

Columbus resided for some time here after his marriage, his wife having property in the island. Soon afterwards we caught a glimpse of the revolving light placed on the northern point of the island of Madeira. This passed, we coasted along, for about 15 miles, what seemed a precipitous but well wooded shore, with mountains in the background, when we cast anchor in the bay opposite the town of Funchal. During our approach we were impressed on watching the towering rocks and mountains that looked down upon us from night and mystery, — the silent mass somewhat enlivened by the lights of the farmhouses that twinkled cheerfully from the midst of the trees that appeared to surround them. The lights running round the Bay of Funchal formed a very picturesque crescent, with more irregular ones dotted through the town.

They were of different colours, and close on the shore we saw a large number, which by and bye began to move about. We thought at first that they were the lights of carriages, moving along the shore, but soon discovered that they were drawing nearer and nearer to the ship, and so concluded that they must belong to the numerous boats that visit passing vessels with provisions and curiosities of many kinds for sale. On they came, dancing over the waves and bowing gracefully to the spectator, — the combined effect of lights of various colours, and motion, and sound being very charming, Once on deck, their occupants spread their goods about — apples, pears, grapes, bananas, Madeira chairs and sofas, hair watchchains, etc., and com menced business in a very brisk manner, as determined to make money as an army of soldiers to take a fortress.

The method by which they carried on operations was adroit. They first asked double or treble the real price of the article, and then, if any unwillingness was shown on the part of the purchaser to bu}r at such a price, they gradually but reluctantly came down, disputing with whin ing protestations that they " hev not got nothin', sir." The noise and confusion could not have been worse on the tower of Babel. Shortly after midnight the order to clear away was given. Down the side of the vessel they scrambled, trying to sell their apples and pears and chairs all the way, and when at length in their boats, still continued to dis course about the cheapness and value of their merchandise, and entreating the passengers to buy. Before the steamer started the notes of their musical jargon had lulled us to sleep.

At daylight we were again on the open, boundless sea, and had to settle down to the monotony of the voyage, without hope of seeing, for ten days, ought to vary the view on eternal water but some passing ship, or a peep at Teneriffe, or a glimpse of Cape Verd. We passed both " the blessed Isle " and Cape Verd at night, and saw but one vessel for about eight days after leaving Madeira, which, with a few rare birds, and several whales, sharks, porpoises, flying fish, etc., was all of solid that our land accustomed eyes had to amuse themselves with. We had nearly lost belief in the romance of the sea by the end of the fourth day, while the beautiful associations that cluster around the word " land," rose up with a vividness propor tionate to our increasing ennui. Perhaps we did now and then think of the interest of these seas, where the first world navigators roamed at will into the mystery ahead, and in later times the rover returned with his spoil from fairyland.

But we are so spoiled now-a-days with our morning newpapers and the variety of modern life, that we are hardly fit to enjoy the old-fashioned ease of voyages long a" o. The fever of restlessness, with which the world is now afflicted, follows us even on the calm ocean, when we have anything like a long season of it. Games, novel reading, argument, whist, music, and, by those who are foolish enough, flirting and gambling, are called into requisition to kill time. If you read a novel, it must be something very absorbing. With an effort, we were able to concen trate attention sufficiently to get up the Dutch grammar and read easy Dutch ; but we were always ready to toss the subject aside, and yield to the fascination of Oorinne, ou TItalie, stretched at full length on deck under the canvass. It needs a Madame de Stael, with her powerful pictures of suffering passion, to engross, when the heat is overpowering and your life narrowed within the limits of a small cabin.

Occasionally the great silence of those hot latitudes was broken by some tremendous manifesta tion of power, slumbering in the atmosphere above. One night, on passing Cape Verd, we witnessed a topical thunder storm in all its majesty. The sky, far and near, was almost continuously lighted up by sheet lightning, showing dis tinctly the clouds looming in the distance ; whilst now and then streaks of forked lightning were chiselled out, like obelisks thrown confusedly together. The storm was land wards, and the effect magnificent to an eye gazing from the moving ocean. We remembered the storm at the eivinoof the law on Sinai, and realised better than in a northern clime the full power of the scene, — the fierce bellowing of the thunder, the maddened whizzing of the lightning, the dull cracking of the bursting rocks, the awful voice from eternity, and the terrified appearance of all nature.

The aspect of the sky, for several evenings after this, was suggestive, by way of complete contrast, of the most delicious calm. All eyes were directed to witness the splendid sunsets. The circle of the sea's surface being much smaller at the equator than further north, the horizon seemed very near. The majestic sun looked like an enor mous ball of gold, hung for a moment from the edge of a thin strip of cloud ; the next dropped gently into the water. The adjoining space burned like polished brass. The small fragments of cloud looked like molten rocks, the larger masses like rugged mountains ablaze. And then came the gracious moon, changing everything into smiles. The passing patches of cloud seemed wanderers among the stars. It made us linger long after the lights had been put out, to drink in the honeyed beauty around.

There was happily one queer individual on board, who unintentionally helped to break the monotony of the sail from here to St. Helena. The tropical heat seemed to set his theology a working, for although not a cleric, he had taken upon himself the office of preacher. In private con versation he often adopted the preaching tone, — monotonous enough in those still latitudes. The power, or weakness, judged from a different standpoint, of this individual, lay in his exciting, by the oddity of his person, manner, and address, the risible faculty. While talking, or listening to him, you could not help imagining him the victim of all kinds of comic situations. He was a good soul, notwithstanding, and much concerned about our soundness in the faith. One of the chief articles in his creed was the utter depravity of man and American bazaars, for he hailed from Toronto, and over these matters there was plenty of solemn argument.

One evening the great subject had occupied attention until far into the night, when our friend wound up in his most solemn mood. Looking around at the gather ing mist and shrugging his body, as if attacked by some thing unpleasant, he said, as if in confidence, and with a Sotcth African Traits. 10 slight air of condescension, "I must go below now, for I have got a cold in my stomach." It only needed the pic ture of his receding figure to give the finishing touch to the comedy. On another occasion his parting salutation was, " Do you know, sir, how the words unsound doctrine are translated in the revised copy of the New Testament ? Unhealthy doctrine, sir, unhealthy. Ah sir, you are un healthy, you are not sound ; you need all these godless doctrines shaken out of you, and God will shake you some day."

With this conclusion he concluded that he had settled us, and the preaching tone somewhat subsided. St. Helena was sighted after twelve days sail from Madeira. It was a pleasant sight, that great mass of barren-looking earth, to our hungering eyes. We anchored on a Sunday morning opposite James' Town, the capital. There was time for a run on shore. The town, which is the residence of the larger portion of the 6000 inhabitants of the island, forms a long stretch of houses, including church, post-office, custom-house, hotel, etc., — none of them striking buildings. It is situated in a deep valley, whose steep sides are bare and rocky. Batteries, which are placed on strong positions, and over which waves the British flag, protect it. On the right hand a long stair, called Jacob's ladder, leads up to the higher ground of the island.

There is very little level soil except that on the high plateau, which begins shortly after this long climb. Barrenness stares one in the face at every step. We saw no cultivated ground, although a few such spots are to be found on the other side from where we were. Indeed, were it not for its position on the highway to the Cape, it would have remained one of the most solitary, as it is one of the most barren, spots on earth. Many of its inhabitants are now emigrating to the Cape in search of employment, which they easily find as domestic servants. They are yellowish in colour, and appear to have mingled largely with Europeans. Its fame is known to the civilised world from its having been the prison, and for a time the tomb, of Napoleon. We did not visit the spot where he was buried — the distance being too great for the time allowed, — but we bought a photograph of it, and talked with those who had been there, and in this way learned that it was very tidily kept, railed off, and planted with flowers.

One meets even on the sea a terrible fact occasionally, and here is one indeed. This tomb preaches with powerful emphasis the doctrine of retribution, and reminds one very vividly of the insta bility of human greatness. Might is right for a time ; but, in the long run and eternally, it is the opposite ; else wert thou not here. It is melancholy to think of such a fate — one cannot but feel pity at the thought of this mighty genius, whose power lay partly in his omnipotent energy, chained, actionless, and almost companionless, on the top of this arid heap. How for a moment or two, as the wind roars round the rocky height yonder, and the clouds move hurriedly on, laden as with sadness, — like the face of his beautiful sister the Princess Borghese, as she thought of her brother's wretched plight, and resolved to go and tend him with a tender woman's care, — the memory of his mighty presence transforms all the dulness around, and makes eveiything great with a terrible fascination.

His figure rises, as of one, who stormed across the war-convulsed earth, weird and awful as a destroying angel, and when the thought of what came at last breaks in upon our absorp tion of mind, and we look around again, it seems as if the storm had but passed, and we were viewing the desolation of the after-scene. Thence to the Cape was a week's distance by steamer, at the rate of speed which the Duvrobhi Castle had averaged — about 270 miles a day. She had to struggle with a strong S.E. wind and a rolling sea, and see-sawed fright fully all the time, so that, with every medium of amusement exhausted — even our preaching friend's oddities failed to excite fun any longer — it was with no regret that we awoke next Sunday morning in Table Bay, after a voyage of 26 days from London. The first glimpse of the Dark Continent from Table Bay is very grand — the sea and the sky seeming to sparkle in mutual sympathy ; Cape Town reposing before you at the foot of Table Mountain, which rises, a sheer precipice of 3500 feet, almost from the water's edge ; the Lion's Rump and Twelve Apostles running out into the sea on the right hand ; the Blaauwe Bergen on the left ; while away, some twenty miles inland, towering heights rear themselves into the transparent atmosphere, with many a strange combination of rugged ness and sweetness.