A History of Kilmarnock, from an early period to the present time; including biographical notices, etc

Front matter

Drawn ly W& Macready Li_i _y I 1 Wcisse BTEA^f CAS HTTLE am-© TF-DWIT ©_? IlilAlFOCI.. THE HISTORY OF KILMARNOCK. i;y ARCHIBALD M'KAY, AUTHOR OF "RECREATIONS OF LEISURE HOURS," " INGLE-SIDE LILTS," ETC. SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. Low in a fertile valley spread, An ancient borough reared her head ; Still, as in Scottish story read, She boasts a race, To every nobler virtue bred, And polished grace. Burns. KILMARNOCK: ARCHIBALD M'KAY, KING STREET. m.docclviii. kilmarnock : PRINTED BY JAMES m'KIF. TO SIR JOHN SHAW, BART., WHO HAS ALWAYS EVINCED A LIVELY INTEREST IN THE PROSPERITY PiF KILMARNOCK, HIS NATIVE TOWN, THIS WOEK, ILLUSTRATIVE OF ITS HISTORY, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

Preface

. In submitting to the public tbis edition of the History of Kilmarnock, the author may state that, by the favourable reception given to the work on its first appearance, he has been induced to publish it in its present revised and enlarged form. He trusts that the original matter introduced into various parts of the text, together with the many illustrative foot-notes that have been added, will render it still more deserving of general patronage. He must acknowledge, however, that, from the difficulty of obtaining accurate information, he has been sometimes obliged, especially in the early part of the narrative, to give only a mere outline instead of a complete picture * but even that outline, affording, as it does, an idea of the appearance of the town and the social condition of the inhabitants, at a com paratively remote period, cannot fail to prove generally interestyig.

Of the various members of the Boyd Family a more length ened account might have been given ; but this would have extended the volume beyond its proposed limits. The eventful career, however, of the unfortunate last Earl of Kilmarnock VI

PREFACE.

. has been traced at some length, partly from its singularly pathetic interest, and partly from its close connection with an important period of Scottish history. For the same reasons, the sufferings of the Covenanters in Kilmarnock and its neighbourhood have been briefly noticed. Their struggles and trials, it is true, are already widely known ; but to have passed them over in silence would have been at variance with the spirit of the present volume, the object of which is to chronicle, in a concise yet faithful manner, the principal incidents and traditions connected with the locality. An abridged translation of the Charter, by which the town was erected into a Burgh of Barony, and several other inter esting papers, that could not be conveniently woven into the text, have been given in the form of an Appendix.

The author may add, that, should this edition be found to contribute still further to the information or entertainment of his fellow-townsmen, and others interested in the historical associations of the district, he will not regret the pains he has taken, or the time he has expended, in the conrposition of the work. 116 Kino Street, Kilmarnock, 1st June, 1858. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Page Antiquity of the town, aud origin of its name, .... 1 Ancient Church of Kilmarnock, ....... 2 Supposed site of the first houses of the town, .... 3 Population of the town and parish in 1547, .... 4 Pout's description of the town and kirk in 1609, .... 5 Franck's description of the town in 1658, ..... 5 Proclamation anent drinking in 1702, ..... 7 Principal architectural erections ahout 1609, ..... 8

Chapter II

Situation of Dean Castle, and origin of its name, .... 10 Ancient name of Kilmarnock Water (note), ..... 10 Captain Grose's visit to Dean Castle, ...... 11 Conjectures regarding the time of the erection of the Castle, 12 Pont's description of the Castle about 1609, .... 12 General description of the Castle, ...... 12 Historical associations of the Castle, ...... 14 Grounds around the Castle, ....... 14 The Castle injured by fire, ........ 15 Kilmarnock House aud the Lady's Walk, ..... 16

Chapter III

Origin of the Boyd Family, 18 Mylne and Fullarton on the origin of the Boyds (note), ... IS The first Sir Robert Boyd at the Battle of Largs, . . .-18 The second Sir Robert Boyd joins the army of Wallace, ... 19 The third Sir Robert Boyd espouses the interests of Bruce, and is rewarded with gifts of the lands of Kilmarnock, &c, . . 20 Portincross Castle described (note), ■ . . . . . .21 Sir Thomas Boyd at the Battle of Durham, CONTENTS. Page Sir Thomas Boyd, Dominus deKilmarnock, kills Neilson of Dalrymple, 22 Sir Thomas Boyd, Lord of Kilmarnock, ..... 22 Sir Thomas Boyd slays Sir Allan Stewart, and is himself killed through revenge, ......... 23

Chapter IV

Monument of Lord Soulis, ........ 24 Traditionary story regarding Lord Soulis, ..... 25 Sir Robert Boyd— Sir Alexander Boyd, 28 The Boyds accused of Treason, ....... 28 Thomas Boyd created Earl of Arran, ...... 28 Execution of Sir Alexander Boyd, ...... 29 Earl of Arran — his lady imprisoned in Dean Castle, ... 30 James Boyd slain by Hugh Montgomery, ..... 30 Robert Boyd at the Battle of Glasgow, ...... 31 Robert, master of Boyd, assassinates Sir Niel Montgomery, . . 31 Tbe fourth Lord Boyd at the Battle of Langside, . . 32 Lord Boyd's Epitaph in the Low Church, ..... 33 Kilmarnock made a burgh of barony, ...... 33 Pass granted by James VI. to Thomas, fifth Lord Boyd (note), 33 James, eighth Lord Boyd — William, first Earl of Kilmarnock, . 34

Chapter V

The Covenanters — John Ross and John Shields 35 General Da_iel and his soldiers in Kilmarnock, .... 36 The Thieves' Hole 36 Finlay shot by orders of Dalziel, ....... 37 Soldiers stationed in Dean Castle — their cruelty, .... 37 "The year of the Highland Host," 38 Losses occasioned by "the Highland Host" (note), ... 39 Six natives of Kilmarnock transported, ...... 40 Persecution for nonconformity, ....... 41 James Robertson and John Finlay, . . . . ... 42 Further persecutions for nonconformity, ...... 43 Trial and execution of John Nisbet, ...... 45

Chapter VI

Covenanters, continued, ........ 47 Letter written by Captain Inglis to the Laird of Rowallan (note), 47 Captain Paton of Meadowhead . CONTENTS. IX Page The Family of Lochgoin (note), 48 Captain Paton surprised by soldiers at Lochgoin, .... 49 Skirmish between the Captain's party and the soldiers, . . 50 Disgraceful conduct of the Incumbent of the parish, ... 52 Captain Paton at the funeral of his child, . .... 52 Execution of Captain Paton, ....... 52 Captain Paton's monument, ..... ... 52 Tragical encounter at Little Blackwood, 53 Covenanters carried prisoners to Newmilns, ..... 54 Encounter at Ducat Tower, Newmilns, 55

Chapter VII

Charters granted to the town, 57 Loyalty of the third Earl of Kilmarnock, ..... 59 The Rebellion of 1715 59 The Volunteers of Kilmarnock march to Glasgow, . . . .60 Jacobite Lyric, .......... 61 The Volunteers of Kilmarnock march to Perthshire, ... 61 William, the fourth Earl of Kilmarnock, ..... 61 Document respecting the cleaning of the streets in 1735 (note), . 62 The Earl of Kilmarnock engages in the Rebellion of 1745-6, . 63 Tradition regarding the Earl attempting to raise men forthe Pretender, 64 Report of the Highlanders being about to invade the town, . . 65 Public meeting at the Netherton, .65 Adventures of Aidd Soulis at Falkirk, . . . . .66

Chapter VIII

The Earl of Kilmarnock at the Battle of Falkirk, ... 68 Anecdote of Lady Kilmarnock, 68 The Earl at the Battle of Culloden 69 Brief outline of the battle, ....... 70 The Earl of Kilmarnock taken prisoner, . . . 71 Anecdotes of Lord Boyd, ........ 71 Trial of the Earl of Kilmarnock, 72 His sentence, .......... 73 Petitions in favour of the Earl, . . . . - . .74 Walpole's description of his appearance at his trial, ... 74

Chapter IX

Behaviour of the Earl of Kilmarnock after his sentence, ... 75 His execution, . . .79 X CONTENTS. Page Colonel J. W. Craufurd of Craufurdland, 80 Anecdote of Rankine, the rhyming blacksmith (note), ... 81 Letter from Lord Boyd to Colonel Craufurd 82 Lady Kilmarnock, .... ..... 82 Letter from the Earl of Kilmarnock to his Factor, .... 83 Letter from the Earl to his son, Lord Boyd, .... 85 Lord Boyd recovers the lands of Kilmarnock, . . . : . 86 He succeeds to the title of Earl of Errol, 86 The Honourable Charles Boyd, ....... 86 Dr. Johnson visits the Earl and his brother at Slains Castle, . 86 The Earls of Glencairn (note), ....... 86 Charles Boyd useful to tbe poor as a physician, . . . .87 Anecdote of the Earl of Errol, . . . . . . , . 87 He visits Kilmarnock — Dr. Beattie's opinion of him, ... 88

Chapter X

The Cross of Kilmarnock the site of a corn mill in early times, . 89 Appearance of the town about 1750, ...... 90 Carts first used in the county, ....... 90 Trades of Kilmarnock — Miss Maria Gardiner, .... 91 Green Street Woollen Factory established, .... 92 Silk weaving, &c, in 1777, • 92 The Old Town-house, 93 The Meal Market, . 94 The Low Church, 94 Ecclesiastical privileges enjoyed by the parishioners in Popish times, 95 The High Church, 96 Rev. Mr. Oliphant— Rev. Mr. Russell, 98 Anecdote of Burns and Mr . Russell, 99 Mr. Russell proposes the establishment of a Sabbath School, . 100 Account of Mr. Russell, by the late Hugh Miller, . . .100 Mr. Russell's successors, ........ 101

Chapter XI

Pastimes of the people, ........ 102 The fairs, 102 Kings' birth-days, 103 Riding the Marches, . 104 Processions of the trades, 105 Fastern's E'en, CONTENTS. XI Page New- Years-Days, . .107 The warning drum, ......... 108 Funerals attended by women, ....... 109 Tbe skellat-bell, 109 Remarkable instance of longevity, 109 Out-door recreations, . . . . . . . .110 The May-pole, or " Simmer Trees" (note), : . . . .110 Curling practised at the Cross, . . . . . . .111 Historical sketch of the game, . . . . . . .112 The Rev. William Guthrie, . . . * . . . .113

Chapter XII

Religious character of the inhabitants, . . . . . .114 The Rev. William Lindsay, 114 Extracts from the Session Records, &c, ..... 115 Riotous conduct of the people at Mr. Lindsay's induction. . .117 Ballad on the occasion, . . . . . . . . .119 Brief notice of the author, 121 Trial and sentence of the principal rioters, ..... 122 The Rev. James Mackinlay, D.D., 122 The Rev. John Robertson 123 List of the ministers of the Low Church since the Revolution, . 123

Chapter XIII

Grant by James Lord Boyd "for keeping ane schoole within the parocheine," ......... 125 Parish School about 1727, 125 Origin of the Burgh School, 126 Burgh Schoolmasters from 1745 till 1782, 127 State of the Parochial School under John Graham, A.M., . . 127 Sketch of Mr. Graham, 128 Mr. John Duncan, Mr. Shepherd, Mr. William Thomson, . . 132 Burgh Schoolmasters — Mr. Andrew Henderson, Mr. Morton, Mr. William Henderson, 132 Erection of the Academy, 133 Successive teachers of the Academy, ...... 134 Side Schools, 135 Adventure Schools, 136 Schools in connection with the Free High Church, . . . 136 Schools established for benevolent purposes, ..... CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

Page New street between Kilmarnock and Riccarton, .... 138 The first Kilmarnock Dissenting Church, ..... 138 Meeting-house at Gallows-knowe — its ministers, _c, . . . 139 Clerk's Lane Church 140 Sketch of the Rev. James Robertson, 140 Rev. Dr. Ritchie— Rev. David Wilson, 145 Rev. James Morison, ......... 145 Princes Street United Presbyterian Church, ..... 146 Evangelical Union, ......... 147 Mr. Morison's Successors, . . . . • • . .147

Chapter XV

Letterpress printing first introduced, ...... 148 Short notice of John Wilson, 148 Printing of the first edition of Burns's Poems, .... 149 Burns's Kilmarnock patrons, ....... 150 Sandy Patrick's "Public," a houff of Burns, .... 151 Origin of "Tam Samson's Elegy," ...... 152 Sketch of John Goldie, 154 Sketch of Gavin Turnbull, the poet, ...... 156 Sketch of Jeanie Glover, author of " O'er the muir among the heather," .......... 158

Chapter XVI

Commercial Statistics 160 Narrowness of the streets, ........ 160 Anecdote of an English traveller, . . . . . . .160 The town burnt, 161 Disastrous fire at Netherton-Holm, ...... 161 Melancholy occurrence in the Parish Church, . . . . .162 List of the persons who were killed (note), . . . . . 166 Superstitious notions of the people regarding the accident, . .168

Chapter XVII

Public Improvements, 170 Opening up of King Street, and erection of the Council Chambers, 170 Town Hall — Portraits of Sir James Shaw, Sir John Dunlop, and B. R. Bell, Esq., CONTENT'S. XIII Page Opening up of Portland Street, &c, 172 Old road through the town from Glasgow to Ayr, .... 172 The Sharpshooters and the Volunteers, 173 Sergeant Ewart of the Scots Greys 173 Murder of two females, 174 Assassination of the young fifer, James Millar, . . . .175 Erection of the Exchange buildings, 176

Chapter XVIII

First Kilmarnock periodicals, 177 Sketch of James Thomson, author of " The Ayrshire Melodist," . 178 Sketch of John Burtt, author of " Horæ Poeticæ, " . . .179 Sketch of John Kennedy, author of "Geordie Chalmers," . . 1S2

Chapter XIX

Meeting at Dean Park for Parliamentary Reform, . . . 185 Apprehension and trial of Messrs. Maclaren and Baird, . . . 188 Radical movements of 1819 and 1820, 189 Extract from Radical Placard (note), . . . . . .190 The Magistrates and the Military search for the ringleaders, . . 191 The Reform Bill, 192 Chartist agitation, . . . . . . ... . 1 92 Members of Parliament for the Kilmarnock Burghs since 1832, . 193

Chapter XX

Statistics — Gas Company, . . . . . . . .194 Worsted shawl printing — Kilmarnock Building Company, . .195 The Cholera 195 Kilmarnock Newspapers, 198 Kilmarnock Annuals, ......... 201 Sketch of Robert Crawford, Esq., . . . ' . . . .201 I

Chapter XXI

King Street United Presbyterian Church, 203 Reformed Presbyterian Church, ....... 205 Independent Chapel, 206 St. Marnock's Church— St. Andrew's Church, . . . .207 Free St. Andrew's Church — Free High Church — Henderson Church, 20S CONTENTS. Page Roman Catholic Chapel — Trinity Episcopal Church, . . . 209 Original Seceders' Church, 210

Chapter XXII

Sir James Shaw's Monument, . . • • • • .211 Memoir of Sir James Shaw, ........ 214

Chapter XXIII

Astronomical Observatory, . . . . ' . . ■ . 218 Sketch of Thomas Morton, Esq., .• 219 F. G. P. Neison, F.L.S., author of " Contributions to Vital Statistics," 221 Sketch of Thomas T. M 'Christie, Esq., Revising Barrister for tbe city of London, ......... 223 Professor Johnston, author of the " Chemistry of Common Life," &c, 226

Chapter XXIV

The Fine Arts, 228 The Messrs. Tannock — their Picture Gallery, .... 228 Kilmarnock Drawing Academy, ....... 229 Mr. William Macready — Mr. James Douglas — Mr Thomas Barclay, 230 Mr. John K. Hunter 231 Mr. William Fleming, 232 Mr. Alexander S. Mackay — Mr. John Curdie — Mr. James Mackay — Mr. J. Brown Reid, 232

Chapter XXV

Poetical Writers, _c, 233 John Ramsay, author of "Woodnotes of a Wanderer," . . 233 Marion Paul Aird, author of the " Home of the Heart, and other Poems," 234 Alexander Smith, author of the ' ' Life Drama," " City Poems," &c, 235 Mr. Templeton, Vocalist, 237 Duncan Macmillan, " The Ayrshire Ventriloquist," . . . 239

Chapter XXVI

The Inundation of the 14th July, 1852, 241 Remarkable power of the torrent at Hairshaw Mill Farm, . . 242 Havoc at Mr. Alexander's Spinning Mill, ..... 243 Destruction at Sandbed Spinning Mill, ...... 244 Damage at Assloss, CONTENTS. XV Page Great height of the water near Dean Castle, .... 244 Perilous state of those dwelling at tbe Foundry and Townholm, . 245 Destruction at the Factory of Messrs. Laugbland, Roxburgh, and Gilchrist 245 Great destruction of property, and loss of life at Craighead, . . 246 Ravages committed between Townhead Bridge and the foot of Green Street, 249 Destruction of property in Waterloo Street, ..... 250 Perilous position of the prisoners in the Police Cells, . . . 251 Violent rush of the water into the Cross, ..... 251 Effects of the Flood in King Street, _c, 252 Table, showing the height of the water in the principal streets, . 253 Estimated value of the whole property destroyed, .... 254 Remarks, ........... 254

Chapter XXVII

Recent Improvements, ........ 256 Bonnington Square, ......... 257 Sheriff Court — New Court-House, 258 Town Council — Commissioners of Police, ..... 258 Statistics — Number of the Houses — Population — Rental of the Burgh, &c, 258 Parliamentary Boundary (note), ....... 259 Commercial Statistics, ........ 259 Coal and Iron-works, 261 Banks, 261 Railways, 262 Water Company, 262 Kilmarnock Library — Philosophical Institution, .... 263 The Athenæum, 264 Philharmonic Society 264 State of the Poor — Benevolent Bequests, 265 Glance at the rural part of the parish 266 Principal Landowners 267 Craufurdland Castle 267 Rowallan Castle, 268 Sir William Mure, author of the " True Crucifixe for True Catholikes, " a version of the Psalms, &c, .... 26S Specimen of Sir William's Psalms, 269 Country Seats, CONTENTS.

Appendix

. PaS I. — Charter by James VI. erecting the town into a Burgh of Barony, ......... 27 II. — Kilmarnock Lands, ....... 27 III.— The Town Green, and the Rights and Titles of the Burgh, 27 IV.— The Kilmarnock Coat of Arms, 28 V.— The Furniture of Dean Castle in 1611, . . . .28 VL— "The Red Steuart," 28 VII.— "Rabbling the Minister," 28 VIII. — Fastern's E'en, 28; IX. — List of the Magistrates, Treasurers, Provosts, and Clerks of the Burgh from 1695 till 1857 28:

Chapter I

It is opportune to look back on old times and contemplate our fathers. — Sie Thomas Browne. The origin of Kilmarnock, like that of many other towns of importance, is involved in considerable obscurity, and scarcely any thing illustrative of its ancient history can be gathered from the various statistical works in which it is mentioned. That it is a place of great antiquity, however, seems to be the general opinion. It is stated by some writers that, so far back as the year 322, it was the residence of a St. Mernoc or Marnock. Here, according to tradition, he founded a church, and hence, in all likelihood, the origin of the town ; for those who were seeking or had enjoyed his holy instruc tions would naturally incline to settle at or near the hallowed scene of his labours. It is also said that he was interred here within the precincts of the ground he had consecrated.

From the same Saint the town has evidently derived its name, whicli, as shown by the Celtic word Kil, signifies the cell, the church, or the burial-place of Marnock. The very early date, however, assigned to the time of St. Marnock is doubtful, and it is more probable that he A settled here about the end of the sixth or the beginning of the seventh century, when some of the early teachers of Christianity, who had been educated at I-colum-kill, under St. Columba, established places of religious worship in different parts of our island.* But there is no account, we believe, on which reliance can be placed, regarding the Church of Kilmarnock prior to the twelfth century. The author of Caledonia, whom we shall afterwards quote on the subject, states that it belonged of old to the monastery of Kilwinning, whicli was then founded; and Pont, who seems to have perused the records of that monastery, says, "it was bulte by the Locartts,t Lords of it, (meaning the barony) and dedicat to a holy man, Mernock, as vitnesess ye records of Kilvinin Abbay."

Kilmarnock, for a long time after the death of him from whom its name is derived, must have been a mere hamlet, for we find no trace of it in history until near the time when the noble family of the Boyds became possessors of the lands ; and even then it is spoken of as a territory, and not as a town or village. It is mentioned by Barbour, in his Life of Bruce, as one of the places through which the English knight, Sir Philip de Mowbray, fled, after being defeated by Douglas, somewhere in the district of Cunningham, about the year 1306— Therefore the ways forth took he then To Kilmarnock and Kilwinnyne, And to Ardrossan after syne," &c. To trace the course of the progress of Kilmarnock, even from this time, would be almost impossible. The Town Books extend no farther back than 1686, and, consequently, * See Dr. Smith's Life of St. Columba. t The Locartts here mentioned are supposed to have been vassals of Hugh de Morville, an Anglo-Norman Baron, who founded the Monastery of Kilwinning, and who "obtained a grant of the extensive and valuable bailiweck, or great Barony of Cunningham." — See Notes on Pont's Cun ningham, by John Fullarton, Esq. of Oversown, throw no light on the subject.'* We may infer, however, that besides the Church of the good old Saint, the many natural advantages of the place, such as its somewhat sheltered, yet healthy situation, together with the stream of the Marnock gliding through it, and the Irvine meandering at a short distance, would all tend to make it a favourite place of residence as the more peaceful arts began to be cultivated.

Regarding the particular site of the first houses of the town we are also left in uncertainty. The most likely supposition is, that they were scattered around the ancient Chapel dedicated to St. Marnock, which was uo doubt situated near to or on the identical spot now occupied by the Low Parish Church. The narrow lane in the immediate neighbourhood, called College Wynd, is, or rather, lately was, one of the most antiquated streets of the town, and derives its name, we believe, from being the site of some Educational Institution in the olden time ; one of its old-fashioned tene ments is still pointed out by aged persons as having* been a school-house of some importances In the same lane is another old building, said to have been the Manse, and behind it is what was called the Glebe Land. The first Bank, too, of which the town could boast, was in the adjoining alley, * The first entry in the Register of Baptisms is dated 6th Feb.,. 1644. | Since the above was written, we have been favoured with extracts from various letters respecting Kilmarnock in past times, written by William Gregory, Esq, Virginia, to his brother here, James S. Gregory, Esq., Registrar.

One of these extracts corroborates the above statement regard ing the name College Wynd. Mr. Gregory says — "At the north end of the Wynd, and the north-west corner of the Kirk-yard, stood an old house (it may be standing yet), the walls of which belonged to the College, and in it probably were educated some of your west country worthies — Boyd of Troch-rigg, and, perhaps, his kinsman, Zachary Boyd, and others. The College was burnt down about the middle of last century. My father attended there at the time, but was too young to be examined regarding the fire ; however, I have heard him say that John Glen (whom I remember) was brought before the Bailies and examined as to what he knew about the fire. John answered that he ' kent naething about it, as he and Rab Elshender were making clay men in the Kirk-yard at the time. ' The Collegians used the Church-yard at that time as a play-ground.

" It is said that the name of the last teacher in the College Wynd School was Mushat. called Low Church Lane;*"" and, assuming these statements to be true, it is uot improbable that this now unfashionable quarter was the nucleus of Kilmarnock. Grange Street, which is near to College Wynd, and which was at one time called the Clay Mugs, from the circumstance of a pottery having been in the place, is also, we believe, one of the ancient neuks of Auld Killie. Strand Street, in close proximity to the Church, has likewise the appearance of considerable antiquity, and in all probability, was one of the earliest streets of the town. Though now chiefly occupied by the poorer classes, it was the residence of some of the more wealthy families during the last century. We may suppose, too, that the Cross, where stood the corn mill of the parish till the year 1703, would be partly occupied with houses at a comparatively remote period.

So late as the beginning of the present century, before King Street and Portland Street were formed, its appearance was old and antiquated in the extreme. But of this afterwards. The first notice of any consequence which we have of Kil marnock, and more especially of the extent of its population, at an early date, is in a document, given in Chapter X., respecting the appointment of a priest or clerk for the parish in the year 1547. The parishioners, or heads of families, amounted at that time to about three hundred, from which it may be inferred that the whole population was little more than fourteen hundred — a number which appears very small when we consider that the parish of Fenwick was then included in that of Kilmarnock. Of course the document furnishes us with no idea of the aspect of the town in regard to its streets or buildings ; but it is worthy of remark, that the names attached to it, though different in their orthography, are such as are common amongst us at the present day.

Timothy Pont, * Statement of two respectable townsmen, the one upwards of 90 years of age, and the other between 70 and 80. about sixty years after the time spoken of, namely, in 1G09, visited the town when making a survey of Cunning ham, and in his own quaint manner, thus describes it :— " Kilmernock-toune and Kirk is a large village and of grate repaire. It hath in it a veekly market, it bath a faire stone bridge over the river Marnock vich glydes bard by the said toune, till it salles in the river Irving. It hath a pretty church from vich ye village, castell and lordschipe takes its name. ■ • • The Lord Boyd is now Lord of it, to quhosse predicessors it hath belonged for maney generations. In tbis church ar divers of ye Lord Boydes progenitors buried, amongs quhome ther is one tombe or stone, bearing this inscription and coate, Hie Jacet Thomas Boyde Dominus de Kilmarnock qui obiit Sep timo die mensis Julii 1432, and Johanna de Montgomery eius spousa.

Orate pro iis."* In another old work, entitled " Northern Memoirs," written by Richard Franck,t in the year 1658, we have an inter esting glimpse of the town as it then appeared. We sus pect, however, that the picture is rather extravagantly drawn ; at all events, it reflects no great credit, in some respects, on the memory of our ancestors. After describing the town as " an antient corporation, crowded with mechanicks and brew houses," and as a place, " through the midst of whose crazy, tottering ports, there runs a river replenished with trout," the • In the books of the Irvine Presbytery, the following notice occurs regarding Lord Boyd's tomb : — "At a visitation at Kilmarnock, 19th June, 1649, anent ane superstitious image that was upon my Lord Boyd his tomb, it was the Presbytery's mind that his Lordship should be written to that he would be pleased to demolish and ding it down, and that if he did not, then the Presbytery was to take a farther course."

This appears to have been in accordance with an A ct of Parliament, passed a few years previously, for "abolishing monuments of Idolatrie." f Franck was a native of Cambridge, and is supposed to have served as a Captain iu a cavalry regiment, under Oliver Cromwell. Like old Isaac Walton, he was a devoted angler ; and he was making a fishing tour through Scotland when he visited Kilmarnock. A limited edition of his "_Jemoirs" was published in 1821, with notes, &c, by Sir Walter Scott. writer says — "Step into her dirty streets, that are seldom clean but on a sun-shiny day, or at other times, when great rains melt all the muck, and forcibly drive it down their cadaverous channels into the river Marr, whose streams are so sullied then, that the river loses its natural brightness, till the stains are washed out, and so become invisible.

All which to examine, is enough to convince you that the influence of planets is their best scavenger. . . . These inhabitants," he proceeds, " dwell in such ugly houses, as, in my opinion, are little better than huts ; and generally of a size, all built so low, that their eves hang dangling to touch the earth. . . . And that which is worse than all the rest, is their unpropor tionate, ill contrivance. . . . Not one good structure is to be found in Kilmarnock * nor do I remember any wall it has, but a river there is, as I formerly told you of, that runs through the town * over which there stood a bridge so wretchedly antient, that it's unworthy our commendations." * Regarding the skill of the inhabitants in mechanical pursuits our tourist speaks more favourably. " Part of their manufacture," he remarks, " is knitting of bonnets, and spinning [weaving] of Scottish cloth, which turns to very good account.

Then, for their temper of metals, they are without compeer — Scotland has not better * and as they are artizans in dirks, so are they artists in fuddling, as if there were some rule in drinking, so that, to me, it represents as if art and ale were inseparable companions. Moreover, their wives are sociable comers, [kimmers] too, yet not to compare with those of Dnm blain, who pawn their petticotes to pay their reckoning. Here is a jolly crew of ale-men, but very few anglers, crowded together in the small compass of a little corporation, curiously compacted." * It is curious that neither the Church nor the Dean Castle are noticed by our author. The former, he, perhaps, considered too humble an edifice for particular description ; and the latter, being somewhat distant from the town, might escape his observation.