From New York to Delhi, by way of Rio de Janeiro, Australia, and China

Front matter

RECENT VOYAGES ANO TRAVELS 1>i BARTH'S TRAVELS ami DISCOVERIES in NORTH Mid CENTRAL AFRICA. Vols. I. to III. Illustrations, l*ls. -You. IV. IMPRESSIONS nl WESTERN AFRICA, B* T. J. Hi !• Bivsoir, H. M. Consul for the Bight of Biafra. Post-vo. A VISIT lo ALGIERS. By the Ret. E. W. L Davits, M A Oxen , ICirai Dean osSelby. PostSvo, with Illustrations. Captain BURTON'S FIRST FOOTSTEPS in EAST AFRICA; or, Eiploration osHarar. 8vo. with Illustration^, Is*. Captain BURTON'S PILGRIMAGE to MEDINA and MECCA. _ v 11 crown bvo. with Illustrations, 21s. VI. MITI.A ; or, Incidents and Adventures of Travel in Mexico and Guatemala. Bj i. F \ b» Tempsky. Edited by J. S. Bell. 8>o. with Illustrations. I). SCHERZER'S TRAVELS i„ NICARAGUA, HONDURAS, and SAN SALVADOR, 2 vol». post 8vo. with Map, 16s. Mr. W. V. SNOW'S MISSIONARY CRUISE off TIERIt A DEI H EGO, PATAGONIA, &c. 2 vols. post 8vo. with Illustrations, 21s. Captain MDOl GALL'S VOYAGE of HER MAJESTY'S l»l-' OV] m SHIP BESOLl Tl to the Alii TIC REGIONS in SEARCH of silt J. rRANKLIN and the Mls>S.NG CREWS. 8vo.wiili Illustrations, tU.

Captain OSBORN'S NARRATIVE of Sir R. MCLURLS DISCOVERY of the NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 8vn. with Illustrations, 15e. XI. Captain OSBORN'S QUEDAH; or, Si ray Leans from a Journal in Malayan Waters. Post 8vo. with lUtutratioiu. l<te (id. XII. Ho CHINESE EMPIRE. By the Abbe Hit-. 2 vols. The ABBE' HUC'S WORK on CHRISTIANITY in CHINA, TARTARV, and THIBET. 2 vols. Bvo. Sis.— Vol. 111. is in the press. Mr. HINCHL1FFS SUMMER MONTHS among the ALPS u i AS l.NT of MONTE ROSA. Post Bvo. with Views and Maps, IDs. 6<L xv. A MONTH in the FORESTS of FRANCE. By the Hon. i.m.mi.i F. Berkeley. Post Svo. 10s. 6d. XVI. 01 Al Kl PAGES' RAMBLES of a NATURALIST on the n'AsTS of FRANCE, SPAIN, and SICILY. Translated bj E.C. OTTB'. SvolE. Mr. C. R. WELD'S VACATION TOUR ,„ ihe UNITED STATES and CANADA. Post Svo. 10s. 6d. Mr. C. R. WELD'S VACATIONS in IRELAND. 1W London: LONGMAN, BROWN, and CO., Paternoster Bow.

Fnun the SATDBDiY Review, October 10, 1S58. WE do 'not. know any book from which persons who know no thing of India would learn bo niueh, ill 30 short a time and so agreeable aman oer, aa they might from this. Where, indeed, are they to loot at all for what Mr SllXTXr&N supplies — an account within a moderate compass of the feritureaol Indian eccnaryj society, aud government ? Tlicre are political books on India, there are trftvellers' books. I here are missiouaty books; but a bouk whicli did for a considerable por tion of India what Mr. Laing did for Norway, and Mr. Stirling for the Slave States, was not, we believe, to be found until Mr.MiKTrRN wrote it. "VTeliave in his volume a compendium of all that it is most essential to know, rmt to •irtlur not by » compiler, but by an acute and observant spectator and in quirer.

Preface

. The following work has grown out of a six months' tour in India, just before the outbreak of the recent mutiny. The materials were principally derived from letters intended only for the perusal of my family. I have been induced to give my observations a more permanent form and a wider circulation, both on account of the interest which has been excited in the subject by the events of the last year, and because, considering the size and population of the Indian peninsula, its immense capabilities of production, and tbe important position that it may hereafter hold in the economy and commerce of the world, it certainly has not hitherto attracted in this country its due share of attention. The policy and administration of the East India Company's government are so generally misunderstood, and so hopelessly un popular, that it seems a thankless task to say a word in its favour.

I have stated, however, only what I believe to be the truth, after the most careful investigation which I could give. I do not hold, with some, that the East India Company was the only perfect go vernment in modern times ; but, on the other hand, I believe that posterity, if not the present generation, will admire and wonder at the sagacity and wisdom of a policy which has enabled fifty thou sand men (for, until the late difficulties, there have never been more Englishmen in India) to conquer so vast a country, and hold in subjection myriads of men, of most opposite national character, generally civilized, often warlike, and defended, in more than one instance, by the science and skill of the art of war as practised in Europe. I am aware that many things which I have stated with regard to the character of the natives of India may appear improbable or incredible.

All I can say is, that no European can ever compre hend an Asiatic, and that the more their peculiarities are studied, a Preface. VI the more inconsistent they appear. How can Englishmen or Americans ever rightly appreciate people who have no expression in any of their languages for " India," the country in which they live ; no equivalent for " thank you," and no word for " patriotism," and many such ideas? The last five chapters in the book contain statistical and other information, which would perhaps be most valuable, if perused before the description of the country itself. Since this work has been written, the East India Company has ceased to exist as a government. One of the Queen's ministers is now in name, as he has long been in fact, the supreme authority in Indian affairs. The very slight modifications introduced into the system of government by the new act is the best possible tes timony to the excellence of the old organization, an excellence which can only be found in a system which is based solely upon the conclusions of common sense, and has grown up from the results of practical experience.

The difficulties consequent upon the revolt still continue, but the war is now purely defensive on the part of the rebels, and their fate is certain unless they can find new allies among the native princes or feudal lords. The great heat of the present season, the small number of English troops, and the superiority of the natives in rapid marching, all tend to delay the restoration of order ; though they do not seem to strengthen the rebellion, which appears to possess neither unity nor organic vitality enough to spread or become aggressive. Disturbances are now confined to a comparatively small extent of country, and do not affect the peace and security of the peninsula at large. It now only remains that I should acknowledge the very valuable assistance that I have derived from many previous writers on this subject, especially Colonel Sleeman and M. de Valbezen, whose very words I have, in several instances, followed.

The facts and figures which I give I have endeavoured to make as accurate as possible by a careful collation of different authorities, aud a reference to official documents whenever practicable. New Yoek, August 14, 1858. CONTENTS. Chap. I Eio de Janeiro. Cause of visiting Eio. — Entrance of the Harbour. — Eepairing Vessels at Eio. — Porters. — European Appearance of the City. — Architecture. — Priests and Keligion. — Slaves. — Villas in the Country. — Tejuca. — Substantial Houses. — Business. — Politeness Opera. — Government. — Departure from Kio Page 1 Chap. II. — Australia. First View of Australia. — Sydney Harbour. — The Town and its Climate. — Passage to Melbourne. — Public Land System. — The road to Ballaarat. — Colonial Milestones. — Bushrangers ---.----8 Chap. III. — Australia, continued.

First View of Ballaarat. — Description of the Place. — Gold Digging. — A Colonial Theatre. — Socialism at the Antipodes. — Geelong. — Melbourne. —Paramatta. — Republicanism in Australia. — Government and Education. — Emigration and probable Future of Australia ---------15 Chap. IV. — North China. The Passage from Australia. — Making the Chinese Coast. — The Yang-tze-kiang. — The Foreign Settlement. — Dress and Life of the Resident Europeans. — Chinese Soldiers. — Natural Characteristics in Northern and Southern China. — Native Town of Shanghae. — Streets. — Pawnbrokers. — Public Buildings. — Temples, and Worship. — Phonographic Writing. — State Visit of the Taootai. — A Chinese Cafe". — Romish Mission. — Executions and Torture Indifference to Pain shown by Orientals Captain Marryatt's Story. — The " Battle of Shanghae "- --_---._, 26 Chap. V. — A Trip Inland. eave Shanghae for a Trip up the Canals. — Our Boat. — Swimming. — Banks of the Canal. — Military Stations. — Temples. — Graves. — Villages. — Dress of Chinese. — Town of Kwunsan. — Grain Junks. — Comparison of Chinese and American Governments. — This part of China once Submerged. — Cormorants. — Approach to Soo-chow. — The City. — "Foreign Devils." — Grand Canal. — Heat. — Hills near Soo-chow. — View of Ty-hao. — Mandarin's Tomb. — Ty-hao. — Chinese Eiver Thieves — Their Honesty ..... 38 A Contents.

VIII Chap. VI. — A Trip Inland, continued. Ascend Toong-toong-ting-shan. — The View The Great Lake of China.— A Beautiful Canal. — Villages. — Eeturn to Soo-chow. — Grand Canal. — A Customs' Barrier. — A Chinese Fort. — Ping-bong. — Chinza. — Nan-zing. — Effect of Drought on Eice Fields. — Our Examination by Mandarins. — Preparations for the Kebels. — Hoo-chow. — Pretty Girls. — Are compelled to return to Shanghae. — Bridge at Yang-kow-shin. — Kahing. — Troops. — Mandarin's House in Lake. — Arrive again at Shanghae. — Charity in China - - Page 49 Chap. VII. — Southern China. Leave Shanghae. — The Peninsular and Oriental Company. — Hong Kong. — Foreign Settlement of Canton. — The Chinese Suburbs. — Ceremonies at Ming-qua's House. — Making Tea. — Opium Smoking. — The Opium Trade. — Temple of a Hundred Gods. — Beggars Dying of Starvation. — Interior of a House. — A Chinese Restaurant. — Chop-sticks. — Rat Grills and Dog Stew. — Public Opium Shops. — The Boat Population of Canton. — Indifference to Life. — Lepers. — How-qua's Garden. — Unique Method of Hatching Eggs. — Monasteries of Honan. ■ — Boodhist Services. — Sacred Hogs. — Gambling. — Macao. — A Protective Policy. — The Portuguese. — Effect of the War on the Commercial Importance of Canton 60 Chap. VIIL — To Calcutta.

The " Lancefield." — Entomology. ■ — Singapore. — First View of Orientals. — The Parsees. — Mala}-s. — Garrhees. — Proas. — Black Water. — Torture. — Crew of a Ship in the Indian Sea. — Jolly Tars. — An Indian Watering-place. — The Hoogly. — Bores. — First View of Natives. ■ — Hubble-bubble. — Fattening Shell-fish for Market -------..__._' 73 Chap. IX. — Calcutta. Palkees. — Buggies. — The City of Calcutta. — Government House. — Tanks. Bazar9. — The largest Mint in the World.— Supreme Court. — Conflict of Laws. — Missions and Schools. — Spence's Hotel. — Servants. — Expenses of Living in India Civil Servants. — Their Salaries. — The Language of the Camp. — A People without a Country, and a Country without a Name ... 83 Chap. X. — Calcutta, continued. Roasting Human Bodies. — Adjutants in Calcutta. — Unpaid Scavengers. — Early Rising. — The Morning Drive. — "The Strand." — Clothing. — Country around Calcutta. — " Statiops." — Dum-Dum. — Artillery Mess. — An Ameer of Sind. — Barrackpoor. — The Sepoys. — Too much Petted. — Some Causes of the Mutiny -----.--_____ 92 Chap. XI. — Calcutta, concluded.

Life in Calcutta. — My Friends there. — The India Trade. — Skill of tbe Natives in Commerce. — Conduct of American Residents during the Revolt. — Travelling in -* *"?ia- ~The Palanquin. —"Marching."— Steamboats on the Ganges. — Garrhee-dak. — The Mail-cart -103 Contents. IX Chap. XII. — To Benaees. Railway to Raneegunj. — Indian Railways. — Coal. — A Dak-Garrhee. — Dak Companies. — The Rights of Horses. — Leopards and Jackals. — Dak-Bungalows. — Scenery. — Comparison between Natives of India and China. — Land-Tenure. — Nullahs. — People on the Road. — Sahussuram. — Two fine Tombs. — A Dancing Cow. — The village ZSmindar. — "Taking Leave." — Unsympathetic Character of the Natives. — Country between Sahussuram and BSnarSs. — Seroor Page 108 Chap. XIII. — The Holt City of India. The Sacred Apes. — The City from the River. — The Observatory. — Oriental Science. — The Golden Temple. — Sacred Bulls. — The Great Devil. — Hindooism. — The Goddess of the Skull-chaplet. — Poojah. —The Holy Well. — Self- Torture. — Caste. — Brahmunical Regeneration. — Supremacy of the Sacred Caste 123 Chap. XIV. — Benaees, concluded.

Religious Ablutions. — Aurungzeeb's Mosque. — View from Minar. — Burning Ghilt. — Market-place. — Hindoo College. — "Native Gentlemen." — European Manners and Morals in India. — Ruins of a Boodhist Monastery. — Gold Brocade. — Opium 134 Chap. XV. — Allahabad — "The City of God." Arrival at Allahabad. — Zubburdustee. — Seekhs. — Hindoostanees. — Fort at Allahabad. — An Invisible River. — Sooltan Khooshroo's Surai Hindoostanee Wells. — Allahabad to Cawnpoor. — ■ Bullock Trains. — Elephantiasis - - - 141 Chap. XVI. — ■ Cawnpoor to Lucknow. The Station of Cawnpoor. — Disorder in Oude. — Cawnpoor to Lucknow. — Elephants. — Kaorees. — Lucknow. — Making Ice. — The Weather. — The Generosity of the Sovereign Company. — My Man Brown. — First View of Lucknow. — A Moral. — The Gate of Eome. — The Taza. — The Imambara. — A Fine Coup d'œil. — Situation of Oude. — Splendour of the Court. — Indian Misgovernment. — Indian Gentlemen. — Extortion and Tortures. — Lord Canning's Confiscation. — Brutal Degradation of the Court. — Relations of the East India Company to the King of Oude. — Violated Faith -------- 147 Chap. XVII. — Lucknow, concluded.

A Morning Surprise. — Salam. — Native Polish. — Hindoo Manners. — Parade. — Red Coat. — Character of Sepoys. — An Army of Priests and Kings. — Caste Misunderstood. — Pariahs. — India conquered for the English by Natives. — Bullock Artillery. — " Hathee pur Howdah " or Elephant Riding. — Eich Dresses Chokeedars. — Fukheers A Coat of Paint. — Royal Palace. — Vanity. — The Social Evil. — A Modern Sodom. — Defence of the Lucknow Residency. — The Massacre of Cawnpoor ---------- Contents. X Chap. XVIII. — To Meeruth. Appearance of Country. — Bishop Heber. — Christian Missions. — Colonel Tucker. — Country between Futtehghur and Meeruth. — Ganges Canal. — An Indian " Station." — Sirdh-ina. — Dyce Sombre's Tomb. — Free Lances of India. — An Ingenious Process for Collecting Money. — A Female General. — Success of the Begoom. — To Moozuffurnuggur. — Dhoolee Travelling. — Persian Inscription. — Natural History - Page 178 Chap. XIX. — The Himalayas.

A Night in a Dhoolee. — The Turai Forest. — First View of the Snowy Range. — Siwalik Hills. — Ram! Ram! — The Dhoon Valley — Rajpoor.— Ascent ofthe Himalayas. — Puharrees. — Munsooree. — Indian Hospitality. — Landoor. — View of Snow-clad Peaks. — Hill-stations. — An Accident. — The Descent. — Agriculture in India. — Tea Plantation. — Chinese Workmen A Snake Fight - 188 Chap. XX. — Return to Meeeuth. Rev. Mr. Woodside's. — American Missionaries. — Opening of the Ganges Canal. — Excitement of Natives. ■ — Moral Effect. — Missionaries' Opinion of the Company's Government. — Its General Effects. — Native States. — A Seekh Temple. — The Gooroo. — Farewell to my Countrymen. — Last view of Himalayas. — Roorkbee. — Workshops. — Native Workmen. — Repugnance between the English and Native Races. — The Ganges Canal. — Other Buildings. — Meeruth Again. — Mutiny at Meeruth. — Conduct of Officers, and their Feelings toward the Sepoys - 199 Chap. XXI. — The Imperial City of Delhi.

First View of Delhi. — Entrance to the City. — The Palace. — The Houses low. — The Arsenal. — Col. Skinner's. — The Church. — The Square of Death The Signal Tower. — Drive to Kootub. — Ruins. — Old Delhi. — An Imperial Whim. — Sufdur Jung's Tomb. — The Kootub. — Indian Sam Patches. — The Observatory. — Chandee Chok, the Broadway of Delhi. — Dandy Moosulmans. — ■ The Mosque of Slaughter 209 Chap. XXII. — Delhi, continued. A Juggler. — Poses Plastiques. — Entrance to Palace. — Dewan Am. — Emperor's Throne. — Mosaics. — Drawing First Blood. — A Paradise on Earth. — Peacock Throne. — A Microcosmic View of the Mogul Empire. — Shah Jehan in State. — A Hundred Years Later. — Native Tact. — The Glory has Departed. — Maharattas in the Palace. — Gholam Kadur, the Rohilla, seated on the Royal Throne. — Restoration of the Empire by the British. — Their Majesties, and their " Particular Slaves." — The Last Emperor. — The Last Tenants of the Dewan Khas. — The Pearl Mosque. — Palace Gardens. — The Jumma Musjeed. — View from Minar.

Moosulman Worship. — Feerooz's Walking Stick. — Hoomaioon's Tomb. — Chubootras. — Peculiarities of Mahommedan Architecture. — Capture of the King of Delhi 220 Chap. XXIII. — Delhi and Umbala. The Saint's Tomb. — A Royal Cemetery. —A Victim of the English. — The Old Fort. — A Nach at Mr. Skinner's. — The Dinner. — The Girla. — Their Songs. -, Contents. XI Dancing Boys. — Native Gentlemen. — Snakes. — The Bazar3 of Delhi. — The Streets. — A Native Wedding. — A " Public Night " at the Mess of the 54th. — Dak to Umbala. — Sick. — A Dandy Servant. — " Vengeance is Sweet." — Sepoy Bands The Native Army. — Cashmeer Shawls - - - - Page 235 Chap. XXIV Return to Delhi. Desertion. — Life of an Indian Officer. — Christmas Evening at Mr. Beresford's. — The Mutiny at Delhi. — Murder of my Friends. — Fate of the Beresfords. — The Revolted Emperor's Government. — The City while held by the Mutineers. — Uniform Defeats of the Mutineers. — The Siege and Assault. — Taking of the City and Flight of the Mutineers. — News of the Taking of Delhi. — The City after its Occupation by the English Wholesale Punishment - - - 252 Chap. XXV. — Agea.

Arrival at Agra. — The Taj. — Its Proportions. — Mosaics. — The "Tribe ofthe Infidels." — "The Ornament ofthe Palace." — Cost ofthe Taj. — TheFort. — The Pearl Mosque. — The Dew-in Am. — Dewan Ehas. — A Seat for a Sovereign. — A Court of the Zenana. — 'The Palace of Mirrors. — The Terrace. — Sleeping Rooms. — Town of Alexander. — The Printing Establishment. — Akbur's Tomb. — Akbur's Character. — His Legislative and Administrative Acts. — His Religion. — An Unexpected Meeting. — Dine with my American Friends. — " Young Bengal." — Illumination of tbe Taj. — Revisit the Palace. — An Indian Oubliette. — The Old Hindoo Palace. — Hindoo Art. — A Great Well. — A Pleasant Summer Residence. — Presentation of Colours. — Commander-in-Chief's Camp. — Manly Sports. — The Cathedral. — Ram-bagh. — Tomb of Aktmud-ood-Dowlah. — " The Light of the Harem." — Her Ambition and its Success - - - - 264 Chap. XXVI. — Agra to Jaipooe.

Chowdris. — Combination versus Competition. — Our Retinue Price of Labour. — Commercial Integrity. — Leaving Agra The Departure of " A Warrior Lord." — A Loan to the Sovereign Company. — The Royal Pilgrimage. — " Seekree," the City of Victory. — Tomb of a Wealthy Saint. — Bishop Heber's Guide. — Human Chessmen. — Blind-man's Buff. — A Triumph for Religion. — "Pointing a Moral." — Four Rupees' worth of Picturesque Piety. — Bhurtpoor English Protection and its Fruits. — An Indian Sebastopol. — Rajah's Palace. — Battle of Deeg. — Quail Fighting. — A Boxing Match. — Deer. — Bosawur. — Breakfast at 3 p. M. — Antelopes. — Manpoor. — Walled Villages Naked Sanctity. — Buranah. — Hills of Jaipoor. — Palace of the Eajah. — Jaipoor - - - 283 Chap. XXVII. — Jaipooe. Elephants. — Beauty of the City. — The Zgnana and Palace. — Novel Stairways. — View from Roof. — A Court. — Revenue Department. — Dewan Khas. — Sitringees. — Native Furniture. — Curtain-ladies. — A Lovely Character. — Palace Gardens. — His Highness' Toys. — " Composite Architecture." — Native College. — Marriage Nach. — Observatory. — Palace in Lake. — Palaces of Ummeer. — Tiffin in the Reception Court. — Bishop Heber's Praises of the Palace. — Bazar of Jaipoor. — History of Jaipoor --- .....

Contents. XII Chap. XXVin. — Rajpootana— " The Country of Peinces." Bugroo— Peacock Shooting. — Thakoor's House. — Dhoodoo. — Superstition about Wells. — Jain Temple. —Kishinghur. — Visit from Baboo. — Rajah's Palace. — Excitement of the Public. — A Dancing Elephant. — Road to Ajmeer.— Scenery. — Dress and Manners of Raj poots. — Fort of Aj meer. — Ruins of a Hindoo Palace. — Nusseerabad. — Bombay Sepoys. — The Shop of a Fire-worshipper.— Bunai. — Hindoo Cooking. — A Native Huntsman. — Dablah.— Filial Grief. — Bunaira.— Remarkable Castle. — Road to Ummeerghur. —Cheap Meat. —The Day of Rest ..•--- Page 313 Chap. XXIX. — Countey of the Mahaeattas. Arrival at Chittor. — Seven Miles of Ruins. — Tank. — The Moon Lady. — The Great Temple. — Hindoo Religious Architecture. — The Great Tower. — Antiquity of Hindoo Ruins. — Religious Pic-nic. — Enter the Maharatta Territories. — " Zubburdustee."— " The Good Old Rule." — Poppyfields. — Neemuch. — Noble Banyan Tree. — Irrigation. — Mundissoor. — A Pleasant Resting-place. — Jowra. — Nawab's English Palace Khachrdd. — New Style of Architecture. — The Soobah's Politeness. — Oojen. — The City. — Temple of Kunaia. — The God's Carriage. — Indian " Punch." — The Maharattas. — A Native Government. — Professional Robbing. — Spread of the Maharatta Power. — Nature of their Government. — Their Subjugation by the English. — Gwalior States. — The Police. — Indirect Utility of Native Misrule ------ 324 Chap. XXX. — To Elloea.

March of Sir R. Hamilton. — Indor. — The Rajah's Palace. — Strike into the Mail-road. — Revolt of Kuhars. — Origin of the Present Rajah. — Mhow. — Goojree. — Kurrumpoora. — A Stray White Man. — Manners of Natives. — Sindwar. — Fortress in Ruins. — Sirpoorah. — Peculiar Police Regulation. — Old Venetian Coins. — Dhoolia. — Native Town. — Evidences of having entered British Territory. — Malligaum. — Cantonments. — Native Town Nandgaon. — Camp in a Grove. — Sakigaon. — Put up in a Temple. — Enter the Dekkun. — Physical Geography. — The Nizam. — " Might makes Right ------ 341 Chap. XXXI. — The Cave Temples of Elloea. General Description of the Temples. — Khailas. — Fine Sculptures. — "The Work of Gods or Devils?" — Other Caves. — A Heavenly Carpenter. — A Disorderly Household. — View from Hill. — Saint's Tomb. — Rosa. — Aurungzeeb's Tomb. — His Character. — Splendour and Power. — Decay of the Mogul Empire. — A Night in Paradise. — Indra Sabha. — Sonorous Obelisks. — The Doorma Lena Architectural Ornaments of the Caves. — Hindoo Religious Mendicants. — Peasantry. — Their Complexions - - - - - - - - - - -351 Chap. XXXH. — To Bombay.

Road to Dowlutabad. — "The City of Riches."— A Stronghold. — The " Master of the Plain." — Meet "the Moon-Lady" again. — Aurungabad. — A Magician. — Tomb of Aurungzeeb's Daughter. — Another Revolt. — Separation of our Forces. — Toka. — The Godaveri. — Brahmuns. — A Hungry God. — Rope-and-boat Bridge. — Imampoor. — Ahmudnuggur. — Meet our Friends. — The Fort The Contents. XIII Kingdom of Ahmudnuggur. — The Largest Brass Cannon in the World. — Duel ling among Natives of India. — Chand Beebee again. — Death of Aurungzeeb. — Bombay Kuhars. — Seroor. * — Kondapoora. — The River Kistna. — Poonah. — Dismiss our Kuhars. — Good-bye to Dhoolee-travelling. — Irregular Cavalry Page 361 Chap. XXXIII. — Bombay. Khandala. — The Ghat Mountains. — Cave Temples. — The Railway. — Obstacles to its Construction. — Situation of Bombay. — The Fort. — Native Town. — Residences of Europeans. — Growth of Eastern Cities. — Commercial Ability of Natives. — Commerce of Bombay and Calcutta. — Variety of Nationalities represented in Bombay. — Parsees Their Costume, Religion, and Customs. — Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy. — Other Native Inhabitants — Hindooism in Bombay. — Bdhoras and Portuguese Peculiarities of English. — Degeneracy of all other Nations in the East. — The Hoolee. — Nach at the House of Juggurnathjee Sunkurset, — Anglomania in India. — Old Hindoo Costume. — Cave Temple of Elephanta ----' -__370 Chap. XXXIV. — Bombay to Cairo.

The " Ganges." — Our Fellow-passengers. — The Crew. — Life on the Steamer. — Aden. — Its Appearance. — " Hell with the fires put out." — An Original Head-dress. — Arabs. — The Cantonments. — The Fortifications. — Importance of the City. — Free Trade. — A Footprint of Civilization. — The " Gate of Tears." — The Red Sea. — Its Heat. — Suez. — Transit across the Desert. — Its Appearance. — The Road. — The Pyramids. — The " City of Victory." — A Recommendation for Indian Travel 382 Chap. XXXV. — Climate and History or India. Size ofthe Country. — Not Thickly Settled. — Rainy Season. — Cold Season. — Hot Season. — Unfit for a Residence of Europeans. — Effect on their Health. — Origin of the Present Inhabitants of India. — The Hindoo Conquest. — Remnants of the Aborigines. — The Four Castes Changes in them. — Arguments in Favour of this Hypothesis. — Mahommedan Invasions. — Tamerlane. — Foundation of Mo gul Empire by Babur. — Akbur. — Shah Jehan. — Aurungzeeb. — Decay of the Empire. — Revolts. — Maharattas. — Rajpoots. — Death of Aurungzeeb. — The Seekhs. — Utter Disorganization. — Nadur Shah's Invasion. — Rise of the English. — Conduct of the Company toward Conquered Princes. — Annexation contrary to the Company's Policy. — Character of Native Dynasties. — Government of Dependent States -----...- 390 Chap. XXXVI. — English Government in India.

Abolition of Company's Trading Privileges. — Board of Control. — Government of India nominally in the Hands of the Directors, but really under the Control of the Ministry. — Civil Servants appointed by Examination. — Objections to this System. — Unfitness of Natives for Government Employ. — Government in India. — District Magistrates. — Salaries Character of the Civil Service. — Native Employees. — Uncovenanted Service. — Universal Lying. — Instances from Real Life. — Rules of Testimony. — Civil Law of India. — Mild Criminal Code. — Thugs. — Dukoitee. — Religious Murderers and Robbers. — Infanticide Contents. XIV and other Crimes. — Suttee and Human Sacrifices. — Poisoners. — Peculiarities of Crime in India. —Thieves. — Stealing a Sheet from under a Man Sleeping. — Precautions. — Disregard of Capital Punishment. — Black Water. — Blowing from Guns. — Model Prisons. — Caste in Jail. — Smoking. — Licentiousness. — Discourteous Manners of English to Native Gentlemen. —What is a Gentleman ? — Diflkulties of Magistrates.— Native Police. — Their Corruption and Tyranny. — Torture in India. — Bribery and Corruption. — The Remedy. — Causes of the Moral Degradation of the Hindoos - - - - Page 404 Chap. XXXVII. — The Army of India.

Its Strength. — Different Classes of Troops. — English and Native Officers. — Enlistment purely Voluntary. — Pay. — Madras Army. — Bombay Army. —Low- Caste Men. — An Army of Gentlemen. — Truckling to Caste. — Tame Tigers. — Salaries of Officers. — Staff-Service 430 Chap. XXXVIII. — Revenue and Wealth of India. Undeveloped Condition of the Resources of India. — Cotton. — Obstacles to Development. — Small Agriculturalists.— Caste. — Want of Capital among Agricultural Classes. — Inferiority of Native Labour. — Want of Roads. — Railways. — Ganges Canal. — Want of European Capital and Energy.— Obstacles to the Supply of this. — Land-tax under Native Governments. — Under the English. — Lord Cornwallis's " Settlement." — The Madras System. — The " Village System." — Its Advantages. — To be made still more Liberal. — Revenue and Expenses of the Indian Government. — Low Taxation. — India a Poor Country. — Misapprehensions that have prevailed with regard to the Wealth of Oriental Nations 435 Chap. XXXIX. — The Revolt.

Indian Rebellion not a Matter of Surprise. — Revolutions and Rebellions common under Native Governments. — Rebellion did not originate among the People. — Character of the old Native Governments. — Nature of the English Conquest, and Character of their Rule. — Evidence that the Rebellion was not a Movement of the People. — The Rebellion was not in its Origin a Military Mutiny. — The real Instigators were the Moosulman Princes. •— It was the dying Effort of Islamism. Character of the Mahommedan Population of India. — Favourable Circumstances for the Rebel Leaders. — Abortive Attempts of the Rebels to arouse the Mass of the Population. — The Moosulman Character of the Movement evident in its Development. — Atrocities. — Noble Stand of the English. — The Revolt in Oude. — S}Tmpathies ot the Population of India. — The Disaffected Classes. — The probable Result of the Rebellion if it had not been restrained •■ ORTHOGRAPHY.