Historical and descriptive sketches of the maritime colonies of British America

Preface

. M.Y only object, in submitting the following sketches to the public, is, to make the maritime Colonies of British America better known than they are, in the United Kingdom. I have had better opportunities than many others of acquir ing a more perfect knowledge of those countries, particularly as respects those parts of which scarcely any account exists. What 1 have writ ten is principally from personal observation, and claim only to myself the merit of having written nothing but substantial facts. The numerous accounts of various parts of the United States, which have been written by cursory visitants, or by designing land specula tors, and which have been read with avidity in these kingdoms, have occasioned many to emi-

PREFACE.

. grate to the United States of America, who might have removed and settled in our North American Colonies under much more favourable circumstances. I intended to have embodied with these sketches a collection of information relative to the condition of those who emigrated at different periods from Great Britain and Ireland to North America, and some observations on emigration ; but so much valuable matter has lately appeared on these subjects in the parliamentary papers and reports, that for the present I consider it as well to decline any thing more than a des criptive sketch of the lower Colonies. I have said little concerning the aboriginal inhabitants, although I had collected materials for the purpose; but these I was not enabled to complete in the manner 1 wished, and have, consequently, laid the same aside for the present.

I have, on the subject of emigration, particularly to recommend Colonel Cockburn's report and the appendix to it. His evidence in the reports published by order ofthe House of Com mons, on emigration, and that of Mr. Bliss, of New Brunswick, are correct and valuable. Mr. Uniacke, attorney-general of Nova Scotia, is too sanguine : in this respect only has he erred.

PREFACE.

. III The Rev. Dr. Strahan, of Upper Canada, is too visionary, and led away by a bigotry in religious matters that will never take root in America. His statement respecting the number of clergymen of the church of England required in that Province, is too rediculous to be for a moment listened to. A spirit which prevails (except in Lower Canada, among the catholics,) all over America, in respect to religion, will not admit of forcing upon the people clergymen of any particular creed ; and I do not hesitate to say, that nothing would sooner destroy the general affection for the British government than any such attempt. I am no advocate for men leaving their native country ; nor for tearing asunder those attachments and connexions which are fondly cherished from infancy lo old age ; but if the consideration of removing a family from poverty, and bringing them up afterwards in the confidence that they will not be reduced to want the necessaries of life ; or, if the condition of young men who cannot find employment in their native country, be sufficient reasons to justify emigration, it will, I firmly believe, answer the views of such people better to remove to British America rather than to the United States. I might, without much difficulty, establish this fact, were it necessary.

PREFACE.

. Let it be remembered, however, that neither in America nor in any other country, can a man or his family prosper long without industry, per severance, and good management; and those who may think otherwise, had better remain where they are. In America, however, a man brought up to steady work is always sure to find employment; and no one who has bodily strength, need appre hend being reduced to wretchedness, or want of food or clothing, except when brought on by indolence or want of economy. Numerous, indeed, are the examples that I have known of the prosperity of individuals, whole families, and entire settlements in Ame rica. I would point out, in particular, the settle ments formed by the late Earl of Selkirk in Prince Edward Island. Much has been said to the prejudice of that nobleman, and well acquainted as I am with his views and measures, I am confident they were not only good and honourable in regard to himself, but honest and properly intended, as respected every other person. Our North American possessions are not, it is true, viewed with the same interest in Eng-

PREFACE.

. V land as are our West India Islands ; but those Colonies are, notwithstanding, and especially in another view, much more important. The soil, climate, and productions, adapt them for the support of as great a population as any country on earth ; and in this respect they are infinitely more valuable than any of our other possessions. New Holland and Van Dieman's Land may be considered an exception, but the distance of these countries from England will be for ever an important objection to them. Account of prime ISUfoarti Jtelanti, &c &c. CHAP. I. Geographical position of Prince Edward Island . . . .General aspect ofthe country.... Counties and lesser divisions.. ..Description of Charlotte Town, and the principal Settlements. Prince Edward Island, in North America, is situated in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, within the latitudes of 40° and 47° 10' north, and longitudes 62° and 65° west.

Its length, following a course through the centre of the Island, is 140 miles; and its greatest breadth 34 miles. It is separated from Nova Scotia by Northumberland Strait, which is only nine miles broad, between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine. Cape Breton lays within 27 miles of the east point ; and Cape Ray, the nearest point of Newfoundland, is 125 miles distant. The distances from Charlotte Town to the following places, are, to the Land's End, England, 2280 miles; to Saint John's, Newfoundland, 550 miles; to Saint John's, New Brunswick, by sea, 360 miles, and across the Peninsula of Nova Scotia, 135 miles; to Quebec, 580 miles; to Halifax, through the Gut of Canso, 240 miles, and by Pictou, 140 miles; to Miramichi, 120miles; to Pictou 40 miles. In coming within view of Prince Edward Island, its aspect is that of a level country, covered to the water's edge with trees, and the outline of its surface. is scarcely curved with the appearance of hills.

On approaching nearer, and sailing round its shores, (especially on the north side) the prospect varies, by the intervention of small villages, cleared farms, red headlands, bays and rivers, which pierce the country; sandhills covered with grass, and the gentle diversity of hill and dale, which the cleared parts present; particularly those bordering on small lakes or ponds, which, from the sea, appear like so many valleys. On landing and travelling through the country, its varied, though not highly romantic scenery, and its recent agricultural and other improvements, attract the attention of all who possess a taste for rural beauties. Owing to the manner in which it is inter sected by various branches of the sea, there is no part at a greater distance than eight miles from the ebbing and flowing of the tide.

It abounds with streams and springs of the purest water, free from the least impregnation of mineral substances; and it is remarked, that in digging wells no instance of being disappointed in meeting with good water has occurred. There are no mountains on the island. A chain of hills intersects the country between De Sable and Grenville Bay; and in different parts the lands rise to moderate heights; but in general the surface of the island may be considered as deviating no more from the level than could be wished for the purpose of agriculture. Almost every part affords agreeable prospects, and beautiful situations. In summer and autumn the forests exhibit a rich and splendid foliage, varying from the deep green of the fir, to the lively tints of the birch and maple; and the character ofthe scenery has at these seasons a smiling loveliness — a teeming fertility.

The island is divided into three counties, these again into parishes, and the whole sub-divided into sixty-seven townships, containing about 20,000 acres each. The plot of a town, containing a certain number of building and pasture lots, is reserved in each county. These are George Town, in King's County; Charlotte Town, in Queen's County, and Prince Town, in Prince's County. Charlotte Town, the seat of government, is situated on the north bank of Hilsborough River, near its confluence with the rivers Elliot and York. Its harbour is considered one of the best in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The passage into it from Northumberland Strait leads to the west of Point Prime, between St. Peter's and Governor's Island, up Hilsborough Bay to the entrance of the harbour. Here its breadth is little more than half a mile, within which it widens and forms a safe and capacious basin, and then branches into three beautiful and navigable rivers.

The harbour is commanded by different situations that might easily be strengthened so as to defend the town against any attack by water. At present there is a battery in front of the town, near the barracks, another on Fanning Bank, and a block house at the western point of the entrance. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. The plan of the town is regular, the streets are broad, and intersect each other at right angles; and a number of vacancies are reserved for squares. The building lots are eighty feet in front, and run back 160 feet; to each of these a pasture lot of twelve acres (within the royalty) was originally granted; and there was formerly a common laying between the town and pasture lots ; which, however, Lieutenant-Governor Fanning thought fit to grant away in lots to various individuals. Charlotte Town stands on ground which rises in gentle heights from the banks of the river, and con tains about 350 houses, and about 3000 inhabitants.

A number of the houses lately built are finished in a handsome stile, and have a lively and pleasing appearance. The Court House, where the Court of Chancery, as well as the Court of Judicature are held, and in which the Legislative Assembly also sit; the Episcopal church; the new Scotch church, a fine building lately erected; the Catholic and Metho dist chapels, and the new market, are the only public buildings. The barracks are pleasantly situa ted near the water, and a neat area or square occupies the space between those of the officers and privates. They have lately undergone considerable repairs, and are convenient and comfortable. On entering and sailing up the harbour, Charlotte Town appears to much advantage, with a clean, lively, and prepossessing aspect, and much larger than it in reality is.

This deception arises from its occupying an extensive surface, in proportion to the number of houses, to most of which large gardens are attached. Few places can offer more agreeable walks, or prettier situations, than those in the vicinity of Charlotte Town; among the latter, Spring Park, St. Avard's, Spring Gardens, Fanning's Bank, on which His Excel lency Governor Ready is making great improvements, and some farms, laying between the town and York River, are conspicuous. On the west side of the harbour lays the fort, or Warren Farm. This is perhaps the most beautiful situation on the island, and the prospect from it em braces a view of Charlotte Town, Hilsborough River for several miles, part of York and Elliot Rivers, a great part of Hilsborough Bay, Governor's Island, and Point Prime.

A small valley and pretty rivulet wind through the middle of its extensive clearings, and the face of this charming spot is agreeably varied into gently rising grounds, small vales, and level spaces. When the island was taken, the French had a garrison, and extensive improvements in this place; and here the commandant chiefly resided. Afterwards, when the island was divided into townships, and granted away to persons who were considered as having claims on government, this tract was reserved for His Majesty's use. Governor Patterson, however, took possession of it for himself, and expended a con siderable sum in its improvement. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. The late Abbe" De Callonne (brother of the famous financier) afterwards obtained the use and possession of this place during his stay on the island; and the family of the late General Fanning have (by some means) obtained a grant of this valuable tract, the improvement of which is now altogether neglected.

During the summer and autumnal months, the view from Charlotte Town is highly interesting; the blue mountains of Nova Scotia appearing in the distance, the sea through the entrance of the harbour, the basin, and part of Elliot, York, and Hilsborough Rivers, forming a fine branching sheet of water; the distant farms, partial clearings, and grassy glades, intermingled with trees of various kinds, but chiefly the birch, beech, maple, and spruce fir, all combine to form a landscape that would please even the most scrupulous picturesque tourist. No part of the island could have been more judiciously selected for its metropolis, than that which has been chosen for Charlotte Town ; it being situated almost in the centre of the country, and of easy access, either by water, or by the different roads leading to it from the settlements.

George Town (or Three Rivers) — The plot laid out for this intended town is situated also near the junc tion of three fine rivers, on the south-east part of the island. Very little has been done as yet towards forming a town in this place, although it has often been pointed out as better adapted for the seat of government than Charlotte Town. It has certainly a more immediate communication with the ocean, but it is not so conveniently situated for an intercourse with many parts of the island. Its excellent harbour, however, and its very desirable situation for the cod and herring fisheries, will, probably, at no very distant period, make it a place of considerable importance. It is well calculated for the centre of any trade carried on within the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The harbour is not frozen over for some time after all the other harbours in the gulf, and it opens earlier in the spring.

A few hours will carry a vessel from it to the Atlantic, through the Gut of Canso, and vessels can lay their course from thence to Three Rivers, with a south west wind, (which prevails in the summer) when they cannot lay up to Charlotte Town. This harbour lays also more in the track to Quebec, and other places up the gulf. Its access is safe, having a* fine broad and deep entrance, free from sandbars, or indeed any danger, and can be easily distinguished by two islands, one on each side. Excellent fishing grounds lay in its vicinity, and herrings enter it in large shoals early in May. The settlements contiguous to George Town, or Cardigan, Montague, and Brudnelle Rivers, are rapidly extending, and the settlers are directing their attention more to agriculture than formerly. A considerable quantity of timber has within the last twenty years been exported from hence, and a number of superior ships have also been built for the British market.

At present there are two well-established ship-yards, one at Brudnelle Point, the other at Cardigan River, where some large vessels are building. Prince Town (or more properly the point of a peninsula, so called) is situated on the south side of Richmond Bay, and on the north side of the island. It is one of the three places laid out for county towns. There are no houses, however, erected on the building lots, and the pasture lots have long since been converted into farms, which form a large strag gling settlement. Darnley Basin lays between Prince Town and the point of Allanby, which forms the south side of the entrance to Richmond Bay. Along Alanby Point, and round the basin, a range of excellent farms extends, some of which stretch across the Point, and have two water fronts, one on the basin, the other on the gulf shore.

The district of Richmond Bay comprehends a number of settlements; the principal of which (after Prince Town and Darnley Basin) are Ship-yard, Indian River, Saint Eleanor's, Bentick River, Grand River, and the village along the township, No. 13. Richmond Bay is ten miles in depth, and nine miles in breadth. The distance across the Isthmus, between the head of this bay and Bedeque, on the opposite side of the island, is only one mile. There are six islands laying within or across the entrance of Richmond Bay, and its shores are indented with numerous coves, creeks, and rivers. It has three entrances formed by the island, but the easternmost is the only one that will admit shipping. This place is conveniently situated for cod and herring fisheries, and was resorted to by the New England fishermen before the American revolution.

During the last twenty years, several cargoes of timber have been exported from this port, and a number of ships and brigs have been lately built here for the English market. Cascumpeque is about sixteen miles north from Richmond Bay, and twenty-four miles from the north cape of the island. Its harbour is safe and convenient, the lands are well adapted for agriculture; and this place, by its advantageous situation, is well calculated for extensive fishing establishments. New London, or the district of Grenville Bay, includes the settlements round the bay, and on the rivers that fall into it, and those at the ponds, between the harbour and Alanby Point. On the east, lays the very pretty settlement called Cavendish. The harbour of New London will not admit vessels requiring more than twelve feet water; otherwise it is safe and con venient.

Harrington, or Grand Rustico Bay, has two en trances, and a harbour for small brigs and schooners. Here are two villages inhabited by Acadian French ; the surrounding parts of the bay, with Whately and Hunter Rivers, have within the last ten or twelve years become populously settled, by an acquisition of in dustrious and useful peasantry from different parts of Scotland. There is an island laying across between the c two entrances, part of which is covered with woods, and the rest, about three miles in extent, forms sandy downs, on which grows a sort of strong bent grass.* Breckly Point and Cove is a pretty and pleasantly situated settlement, between Grand Rustico and Stan hope Cove. Its inhabitants are industrious farmers in easy circumstances, all of whom are freeholders. It has a harbour for boats.

Little Rustico, or Stanhope Cove, is esteemed one ofthe most beautiful settlements on the island. Its situation is agreeable, and the prospects and exposures of many of the extensive farms are delightful. Its distance from Charlotte Town, by a good road across the island, is only eleven miles. The lands are the property of Sir James Montgomery, and his brothers. The harbour will only admit small vessels. Bedford, or Tracady Bay, is five miles to the east ward of Stanhope Cove. It has a harbour for schooners and small brigs, the entrance of which is narrow, and lays at the west end of a narrow ridge of sand hills, which stretch across from the east side of the bay.f *On Hunter River, which falls into Harrington Bay, a settlement called New Glasgow was planted in 1818, by W. E. Cormack, Esq. now of St. John's, Newfoundland.

The settlers went from tho vicinity of Glasgow. This gentleman has since performed a journey, which no other European ever attempted, across New foundland.—A most arduous and perilous undertaking, when one considers the rugged and broken configuration ofthe country. •(•The entrances to all the harbours on the north side of the island, are either at the end, or, through the narrow ridges of sandy downs— thus, the entrances to theharbours of Cascumpeque, New London, Grand Rustico, and Tracady are at the west end Savage Harbour lays a few miles to the eastward of Tracady. Its entrance is shallow, and will only admit boats. The lands are tolerably well settled, and the inhabitants are chiefly Highlanders. The distance across the island, between this place and Hilsborough River, is about two miles.

The Lake settlement, situated between Savage Harbour and Saint Peter's, is a pretty interesting place. The farms have extensive clearings, and fronts on a pond or lagoon, which has an outlet to the gulf. Saint Peter's is on the north side of the island, about twenty miles to the eastward of Charlotte Town. Its harbour, owing to a sandy bar across the entrance, will only admit small vessels. There are a number of settlers on each side of its bay, which is about nine miles long; and the river Morell falling into it from the south, is a fine rapid stream, frequented annually by the salmon. The lands fronting on this bay belong principally to Messrs. C. & E. Worrell. They reside on the property, where they are making considerable improve ments, and have built granaries, an immense barn, a very superior grist mill, offices, &c. Greenwich is situated on a peninsula, between the bay and the gulf of Saint Lawrence.

It is a charming of such ridges ; and the other harbours, except that of Richmond Bay, have their entrances through similar downs. Strangers are apt to bo deceived when approaching these harbours, as they bave a general resemblance. It is therefore advisable to have a pilot. spot; and its exposure, and the prospect it affords, are agreeable and beautiful.* District of the Capes. This district extends along the north shore of the island, from Saint Peter's to the east point. There are no harbours between these two places; but several ponds, or small lakes, intervene. For a considerable distance back from the gulf shore the lands are entirely cleared, with the exception of detached spots or clumps of the spruce fir. The inhabitants are chiefly from the west of Scotland, and from the Hebrides, and their labour has been chiefly applied to agriculture.

They raise, even with the old mode of husbandry, to which they tenaciously adhere, valuable crops, and the greater part of the wheat, barley, oats, and pork, brought to Charlotte Town, is from this district. It has the eminent advantage of having a regular supply of seaware (various marine weeds) thrown on its shores, which makes an excellent manure, particularly for barley. Colville, Rollo, Fortune, Howe, and Boughton Bays, are small harbours, with thriving settlements, situated on the south-east of the island, between Three Rivers and the east point. The inhabitants are principally Highlanders and Acadian French. Murray Harbour lays between Cape Bear and Three Rivers. It is well sheltered, but the entrance is intricate, and large ships can only take in part of * This estate is involved in a chancery suit, and the son of the original complainant (BowleyJ died, old and grey, three years ago, completely worn out in the cause. their cargoes within the bar.

Several cargoes of timber have been exported from this place, and a number of excellent ships, brigs, and smaller vessels have been built here by Messrs. Cambridge and Sons, whose extensive establishments, mills, ship-yards, &c. have for many years afforded employment to a number of people. The cultivation of the soil has however for a long time been neglected; but an accession of industrious people, who have settled here within the last few years, are making extensive improvements. Belfast. This district may be said to include the villages of Great and Little Belfast, Orwell, and Point Prime; with the settlements at Pinnette River, Flat River, and Belle Creek. At the time the island was taken from the French, a few inhabitants were settled in this district; but from that period, the lands remained in a great measure unoccupied, until the year 1803, when the late enterprising Earl of Selkirk arrived on the island with 800 emigrants, whom he settled along the front ofthe townships that now con tain those flourishing settlements.

His Lordship brought his colony from the Highlands and Isles of Scotland, and by the convenience ofthe tenures under which he gave them lands, and by persevering indus try on their part, these people have arrived at more comfort and happiness, than they ever experienced before. The soil in this district is excellent; the inhabitants are all in easy circumstances; and their number has increased from 800 to nearly 3000. They raise heavy crops, the overplus of which they carry either to Charlotte Town, Pictou, Halifax, or New foundland. Tryon is situated about twenty miles west of Charlotte Town, nearly opposite to Bay de Verts, in Nova Scotia. It is one of the most populous, and is considered the prettiest village on the island. A ser pentine river winds through it, on each side of which are large and beautiful farms.

The tide flows up about two miles, but the harbour will only admit of small schooners and boats, it having a very dangerous bar off the entrance : extensive clearings were made here when possessed by the French. Bedeque is situated on the south-west part of the island, about eighteen miles from Tryon. It is populously settled on the different sides of the two rivers into which the harbour branches. The harbour is well sheltered by a small island, near which ships anchor and load. There are two or three ship-building establishments here, and it has for some time been a shipping port for timber. Egmont Bay lays to the west of Bedeque. It is a large open bay, sixteen miles broad from the west point to Cape Egmont, and about ten deep. Perceval, Enmore, and two other small rivers fall into it, on the borders of which are excellent marshes.

There is no harbour within this bay for large vessels, and as the shoals lay a considerable distance off, it is dano-erous for strangers to venture in, even with small vessels. The inhabitants arc chiefly Acadian French, who live in three small villages on the east side of the bay. The whole population consists only of twenty-three families. Hilsborough River enters the country in a north easterly direction. The tide flows twenty miles further up than Charlotte Town, and three small rivers branch off to the south. The scenery at and near the head of this fine river is delightful. Mount Stewart, the property and present residence of John Stewart, Esq. is a charming spot, and the prospect from the house, which is on a rising ground, about half a mile from the river, is beautiful and interesting.

The view downwards commands several windings of the Hilsborough and part of Pisquit Rivers; the edges of each are fringed with marsh grass, and a number of excellent farms range along the banks, while majestic birch, beech, and maple trees, growing luxuriantly on the south side, and spruce fir, larch, beech, and poplar on the north side, fill up the back ground. Upwards, the meandering river, on which one may now and then see passengers crossing in a log canoe, or an Indian with his family paddling along in a bark one; together with a view of St. Andrew's, the seat ofthe Catholic Bishop,* and the surrounding farms and woods all combine to form another agreeable landscape. York River penetrates the island in a north-west erly course, and the tide flows up about nine miles. On each side there is a straggling settlement, and a #The Right Reverend Aneas M'Eacheran, titular Bishop of Rosen, an excellent and venerable character, equally esteemed by the members of every profession. number ofthe inhabitants have excellent farms, with a considerable proportion of the land under cultivation.

Elliot River branches off nearly west from Char lotte Town harbour, and intersects the island, winding in that direction about twelve miles. A number of small streams or creeks fall into this river, and the lands on both sides are divided into farms, and settled on. The scenery about this river has as much of the romantic character as is to be met with in any part of the island. There are a number of other though lesser settle ments. The principal of these are — Tigniche, near the north cape ; the inhabitants of which are Aca dian French. Crapaud and De Sable, between Hils borough Bay and Tryon. Cape Traverse and Seven Mile Bay, between Tryon and Bedeque, and the Aca dian settlement at Cape Egmont. Settlements are also forming along all the roads, particularly in the vicinity of Charlotte Town.

The only tract of any extent bordering on the sea, without settlers, is that between the north cape and west point. There are a number of fine streams of waters and ponds in this district ; the soil is rich, and the land is covered with lofty trees. A few people have settled near the north cape, who have raised heavy crops of wheat, barley and potatoes; and the whole will likely be settled in a few years. Its only disadvantage is having no harbour; but one may always land in a boat, if the wind docs not blow strongly on the shore; and fish of various descriptions may be caught in abundance, any where along the coast. CHAP. II. Structure ofthe soil, and natural productions. The general surface of the soil is, first, a thin layer of black or brown mould, composed of decayed vege table substances; then, to the depth of a foot or a little more, a light loam prevails, inclining in some places to a sandy, in others to a clayey character; below which, a stiff clay resting on abase of sandstone predominates.

The prevailing colour of both soil and stone is red. There are only a few exceptions to this general structure of the soil: these are the bogs or swamps, the formation of which is either a soft spungy turf or a layer of black mould resting on a bed of white clay or sand. In its natural state, the quality of the soil may be readily ascertained by the description of wood growing on it: being richest where the maple, beech, black birch, and a mixture of other trees grow; and less fertile where the fir, spruce, larch, and other species of the pine tribe are most numerous. The soil is friable and easily tilled, and there is scarcely a stone on the surface of the island that will impede the progress of the plough. There is no limestone nor gypsum, nor has coal yet been discovered, D although indications of its existence are produced.