Voyages and travels in various parts of the world, during the years 1803-1807 ... Illustrated by engravings

Front matter

C//fa LfiM^v oAr&dt. VOYAGES AND TRATEES IN VARIOUS PARTS OF THE W0R1D, BURING THE YEARS 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, and 1807. BY G. H. VON LANGSDORFF, MJLIC COUNSELLOR TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR 0*F RUSSIA, CONSUL-GENERAL AT THE BRAZILS, KNIGHT OF THE ORDER OF ST. ANNE, AND MEMBER OF VARIOUS ACADEMIES AND LEARNED SOCIETIES. CARLISLE : PRINTED BY GEORGE PHILIPS, AND POR SALE IN PHILADELPHIA, BY M. CAREY & SON, ABRAHAM SMALL, AND MOSES THOMAS ; IN NEW YORK, BY KIRK & MERCEIN; IN BOSTON, BY WELLS & LILLY ; IN BALTIMORE, BY J. & T. VANCE ; IN RICHMOND, BY FITZWHYLSONN & POTTER, AND PETER COTTOM. 1817. DEDICATION. TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, ALEXANDER THE FIRST. Most Gracious Emperor, The first voyage ofthe Russians round the World is one of the most remarkable events in the an nals of your Imperial Majesty's glorious reign : and every contribution towards a more enlarged knowledge of this great undertaking may reasonably expect to ex cite the interest of all civilized nations.

The observations which I had the opportunity of collecting, as the fortunate companion of the first Rus sian circumnavigator, have the most complete claim to attention conferred upon them, by the permission given me to place at the head of them the very illustrious name of your Imperial Majesty, and to publish, in conjunction with my feeble efforts, this new instance of your gracious condescension. May it please your Imperial Majesty to accept this offering as a trifling token of unbounded gratitude and veneration, and of the sincerity with which I shall re main till death, Most gracious Emperor, Your Imperial Majesty's Truly devoted And obedient servant and subject, G. H. VON LANGSDORFF

Introduction

. It may perhaps by many people be considered as presumptuous in me to lay before the public my obser vations during our very interesting voyage round the world, when they are already in possession of an account of this expedition from the hands of its illustrious chief himself. I have only to answer, that my principal excuse for the present undertaking is, that my attention as a physician and naturalist was necessarily directed to different objects from those by which he was principally occupied. Besides, as I quitted the expedition at Kamschatka in the year 1805, and consequently in the farther progress of my travels took a very different course from that pursued by Captain Krusenstern, as I visited the Aleutian Isles and the north-west coast of America, and at length returned over land through Siberia to the Russian capital, all this part of my work will be wholly distinct from any thing which appears in his.

Every observer has his own particular point of view, in which he contemplates and judges new objects ; his own sphere, within which he endeavours to bring whatever excites his curiosity ; many things may there fore be noticed in my work which were passed over by Captain Krusenstern : and of others descriptions may perhaps be given different from what are to be found in his universally esteemed and excellent work. It could never be my intention to compile a nautical account ofour expedition ; to concern myself with the plan of the voyage and the political and commer cial views connected with it; or to enter into details concerning the appointment of the officers and fitting out the ships. All these things are so amply treated VI

INTRODUCTION.

. by our chief, that any thing said by me must be wholly superfluous. My endeavours have, therefore, been directed to describing the objects which more particularly interested me, such as the manners and customs of the different nations we visited, their modes of liv ing, and the productions of the countries, combining with them a historical sketch of our route. I have wished, in short, to compile a popular narrative, such as I may reasonably hope will be in many respects new, and in all acceptable to the learned world. How far these objects may be attained, remains for the pub lic voice to determine. A strict adherence to truth ought not to be merely a matter of preference ; it ought to be considered as a sacred duty by every traveller who undertakes to give the history of his adventures to the world Nor has he any occasion to have recourse to poetical flourishes, or the detail of marvels, embellished by a lively ima gination, to render his work interesting ; he is daily presented with so many things really remarkable, and highly worthy of attention, that his only difficulty is to restrain himself so far in relating mere facts, that his work may not exceed all reasonable bounds.

As I do not think that scientific descriptions of plants, animals, and other objects of Natural History, belong to a book which has a view to general pur poses, and is intended for readers of all descriptions, I have separated them from the body of the work, and intend publishing them, subsequently, distinct from the rest. 1 have, however, made a sort of beginning with the botanical part, since the knowledge of plants is in these days the branch of Natural History which interests the most universally. Essays towards the knowledge of insects, fish, birds, &c. shall follow by degrees, as time and means will permit. To make travelling useful, a particular strength and turn of mind is requisite, which can only be acquired by beginning to travel early in life. It was my good fortune to have prepared myself by several minor jour nies for the great one which 1 at length undertook. —

INTRODUCTION.

. VII After I had obtained the degree of Doctor in Medi cine and Surgery, at Gottingen, in 1797, I accompanied to Lisbon Prince Christian of Waldeck, who went thither as General of the Portuguese army. Even in my early years I had been much fascinated with the study of Natural History : Blumenbach's Lessons decided my attachment to this science, and Portugal opened a wide field to satisfy my desire of knowledge. My occupation of Surgeon did not in terfere with my inclination to this favourite branch of study ; and I received from the Prince who was him self a man of learning, and a friend to science and knowledge, all possible support and encouragement. In the spring of 1798, I accompanied him on a military tour through several provinces of Portugal ; but alas ! he did not long survive it : he died the follow ing year of a dropsy in the chest, which had come on after the loss of his arm.

By the advice of the then Portuguese minister, Louis Pinto de Souza Coutinho, I determined rather to commence practice as a physician in the fine climate, and among the social circle of amiable and polished men, whom I found in Lisbon, than to return back to my own country. I soon acquired so exten sive an acquaintance in many German, English, and Portuguese houses, and was honoured by them with so much confidence in my professional capacity, that I had very little time left to devote to my favourite studies, and examine the many new and unknown pro ductions of nature with which I was presented. This induced me to accept the offer of being appointed Sur geon Major to the English auxiliary troops then resi dent in Portugal, that is to say, the regiment of Cas tries, because, having a sufficient salary, I could de vote my leisure hours entirely to my favourite pursuit.

I accomparied this body in the campaign of 1801 against the Spaniards ; but as we were dismiss ed in the following year, at the conclusion ofthe peace of Amiens, and sent over to England, I availed myself of this opportunity to visit London and Paris, on my return into Germany in 1803.

INTRODUCTION.

. In the meantime I had sent my collection of Natu ral History, which was tolerably ample, from Lisbon by Hamburgh to Gottingen, having the intention, when settled at the latter place, to prepare an account of my travels in Portugal for the press. The friendship shewn me by the first naturalists of France, Messrs. Hauy, Olivier, Bosc d'Antique, La treille, Geoffrey, Brognart, and Dumeril, and the honours conferred upon me nearly about the same time by the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. Peters burgh, in naming me their correspondent — all these things gave me so much encouragement, that an ar dent wish was excited in my bosom, on my return to Gottingen, to undertake some great journey, entirely with a view to extending my knowledge of Natural History. A more favourable opportunity for this pur pose than accompanying the first Russian circumnavi gator could never have been presented to me.

As Correspondent of the Academy, I thought my self to a considerable degree justified in requesting their support for the advancement of my project, and I therefore by letter made known my wishes to that body. But although the Counsellor of State and Knight Von Krafft; and the Collegial Counsellor and Knight Von Adelung, both did all in their power to support my application, I received a letter at Gottin gen, on the eighteenth ofAugust, 1803, regretting that my wishes had not been sooner known, as the time would not now permit their being complied with. — The two ships, the Nadeschda and Neva, I was in formed, were to sail with the first fair wind, and were not to stop for above a week at Copenhagen. Dr. Ti lesius was, besides, already appointed Naturalist to the Expedition, which he was expected to join at Elsi nore, and I should probably not like to undertake a journey thither upon an uncertainty, and at my own expence : nothing satisfactory, therefore, could be pro mised me with regard to my request. I was not, however, the less eager in my wishes, and was determined not to abandon my project till

INTRODUCTION.

. IX convinced of the impossibility of its being executed. My resolution was immediately taken, and without loss of time I set out the very same day. On the twenty-first of -August, in the morning, I arrived at Lubeck, and found at Travemunde a ship ready to sail for Copenhagen, in which I embarked. We weighed anchor in the night between the twenty-second and twenty-third, and having a favourable wind, reached the Danish capital early in the morning of the twenty fourth. I went immediately to the Hotel of the Sieur Rau, where, to my infinite satisfaction and delight, I found most of the officers belonging to the Russian expedition had taken up their quarters. This circumstance inspired me with new courage, as it seemed a happy omen ; and the result did not deceive my expectations. I entreated so earnestly ofthe Chamberlain Von Resa noff, who was going with the expedition in quality of Ambassador to Japan, to be received as a sharer in the voyage, that at length, as my petition was supported by the excellent Captain Von Krusenstern, the proper chief ofthe expedition,'! had the happiness of finding it granted.

To this amiable man, and scientific navigator, whose well known services are far above my praise, 1 must therefore be permitted here publicly to make my grate ful acknowledgments, confessing that I am princi pally indebted to his friendship and support, for all the gratification I received in the travels I am about to re cord. Not less thanks are due to my friend and travelling companion, Counsellor Tilesius, who unites to the most extensive scientific knowledge exquisite taste in the fine arts, for the many sketches with which he has already favoured me, and for the many more promised by him to enrich and embellish the Second Part of my Travels. To him, and not to the draughtsman of the expedition, we are indebted for the historical plates in the Atlas to Captain Krusenstern's work. He has, besides, in his possession a large collection of b X

INTRODUCTION.

. sketches of objects of Natural History, which he purposes by degrees to complete, and present to the public. In what concerns the geography of Japan, and the language ofthe inhabitants of Tschoka, I have availed myself very much ofthe valuable observations of Coun sellor Julius Von Klaproth. This learned friend and colleague was so obliging as to furnish me with several interesting notices which he had collected from Ja panese maps and geographical works. To the good ness ofthat ingenious artist, the Sieur Alexander Or loffsky, I am indebted for the portrait of the French man Jean Baptiste Cabri, and some other engravings. To all and each of these excellent men I beg thus publicly to return my grateful thanks for their kindness and friendly asssistance. G. H. VON LANGSDORFF. St. Petersburgh, June, 1811. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Voyage from Copenhagen to England. Stay at Falmouth. Voyage to Teneriffe. Description of that Island and of the Peak. Voyage to Brazil ... Page 19 CHAPTER H. Stay at Santa Catharina. The Town of Nossa Senhora do Desterro. Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants. Dance of the Negro Slaves. Excursion to the Main Land. Arts, Knowledge, and Public Institutions. Manufactory of Train Oil. Natural History. Medical Observations - 42

Chapter III

Departure from Brazil. Voyage round Cape Horn. Easter Island. Arrival at Nukahiwa, one of the Washington Islands. Impressionsomadp at the first sight of the Island. Visit from the Natives ' - - - - - 78

Chapter IV

Account of the Englishman Roberts, and the Frenchman Cabri, Cursory View of the Group called Washington's Islands. Description of the Island of Nukahiwa. Its Situation, Climate, Productions, and Population. Particulars relative to the Inhabitants - . - - - 93

Chapter V

Tattooing. The Manner in which it is performed. The Houses tabooed during the Time. Cloathing of the Islanders. Their food. The Bread Fruit. Their Dwellings HO

Chapter VI

On the social Institutions among the People of Washington's Islands The Chiefs, or Kings. The Religion and Laws. Recapitulation of Objects tabooed, and of the Occasions on which they become so - - - - - 121

Chapter VII

Continuation of the Manners and Customs of the People of Nukahiwa. Their Anthropophagism. Their Wars. Mar- CONTENTS. riages. Births. Funeral Ceremonies. Magic. Circum cision. Dancing Festivals. Music. Running on Stilts. Swimming. Ornaments. Household Utensils. Playthings. Canoes. Miscellaneous Observations - - '*■

Chapter XI

Road behind the Papen Mountain. Occurrences there from the seventeenth ol October to the ninth of November. Anchoring-Place before the Imperial Guard House, and Negociations there. Departure from the Anchoring-Place, and Entrance into Megasaki - - - - - 212

Chapter XII

Stay at Megasaki. Description of the Habitation there. Permission given for the Ship to be carried into the Harbour. One of the Japanese attempts to cut his Throat. A Balloon sent up, and the Alarm occasioned by it. Illness of the Ambassador - - - - --- - 239

Chapter XIII

Recapitulation of what had passed at Nangasaki. The Arrival ofthe Great Man from Jedo announced to the Ambassador. Discussions concerning the Manner in which thc Ambassador was to be received. His first Audience of Ceremony. His second Audience for Business. His third Audience to take Leave ... 252

Chapter XIV

Departure from Japan. Voyage from thence to Kamschatka. Cape and Straits of Sangaar. Description of the West and North-West Coasts of Matmai, or Jesso- Stay in Aniwa Bay. Description of the same, with the South-East Coast CONTENTS. xiiJ of Sachalin, or Tschoka. Departure from Tschoka, and Ar rival in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul - 266 Vocabulary of the Language of Nukahiwa - - 292 Specimens of the Languages spoken among different Tribes of the Ainu ; those who inhabit the southern Part of Kamschatka, the Kurile Islands, the northern Coast of Jesso, the southern Part of Tscfioka, and the north-east Point of Tschoka _--.... 300 PART IT. Introduction S07

Chapter I

Departure from Kamschatka. Voyage along the Aleutian Islands. The Islands of St. Paul and St. George. Description of St. Paul. Voyage to Oonalashka and Arrival there - - - " - - 315

Chapter II

Description of the Island of Oonalashka. The Inhabitants. Their Habitations. Their Food, Clo'athing, and Ornaments. Tattooing. Occupations of the Men. The Baidarkas or Canoes. The Javelins. The Whale Fishery. Occupations of the Women. Their Religion. Marriages. Amusements. Productions of the Island - - 33!

Chapter III

Departure from Oonalashka and Voyage to Kodiak. Description ofthe latter Island. Its Natural History. The Inhabitants. Their Manners and Customs. Their Religion. Situation of the Russian Settlement. Productions. Changes during our Stay. Departure from Kodiak and Arrival in Norfolk Sound .... 34K

Chapter IV

Conquest of Sitcha. Situation osthis Settlement to the End of the Year 1805, and in the beginning ofthe following Year. Letter to the Counsellor of State, Blumenbach. Description of the Climate, and Natural Productions of Norfolk Sound - - - - 371

Chapter V

Visits of the Kaluschians, the original Inhabitants of Norfolk Sound to the Russian Settlement. Excursion to visit the Natives, and friendly Reception experienced from them COI.TMTS. Their Habitation and the Maiyier in which it is fortified. Manners and Customs of the Natives - - 395 395

Chapter VI

Departure for New Albion. Voyage thither. Havre de Gray. Cape Disappointment. The river Columbia. Attempt to tun into it Continuation of the Voyage. Arrival in the Bay of St. Francisco 416

Chapter VII

Arrival at St. Francisco. Reception there. Presidency and Mission at Saint Francisco. Description of them. The Indians of this Mission. Their Manners and Customs 427

Chapter VIII

Restraints upon Trade. Motives for our being well-received by the Spaniards. Articles of Trade. Answer of the Governor. Farther Transactions. Arrival of the Governor at St. Francisco. Attempt at establishing a Commercial Intercourse between Russia and New California. Amusements. Hunting. Societies. Dances. The Barrego. Bull and Cock Fights. New Plan of Trade. My own Opinions upon this subject ... 447

Chapter IX

Want of Boats and Water Communication at St. Francisco. Excursion by Water to St. Joseph. Mission of St. Joseph. Description of the same. Dance of the Indians at this Mission. Pueblo di St. Joseph. Dangers encountered in our return to St. Francisco - .... 459

Chapter X

Geographical Description of the Harbour and River of St. Francisco. Military Expedition into the Interior of the country. Sierra Nevada. Land Communication. St. Blaise. Acapulco. Medical Observations. The Cow-pox. The Measles. Midwifery. Other Diseases. The Latido. Natural History ... . 472

Chapter XI

Departure from St. Francisco Situation ofthe Promuschleniks. Voyage by Sea. Arrival at Sitcha. New events that had happened there. Forced Parties to catch Sea Otters. Stay at Sitcha. Departure from thence. Arrival at Kodiak. General Remarks upon that Settlement - - 482

Chapter XII

Departure from Kodiak. Schelikoff's Straits. Coast of Alaksa. Bay of Kukak. Description of the People and their CONTENTS. XV Habitations. Departure from Kukak, and Voyage to Oona lashka. Account of a New Island lately formed in this neighbourhood. Departure from Oonalashka, and Conti nuation ofthe Voyage. Obliged to Winter at Kamschatka. Arrival in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul - 495

Chapter XIII

Observations upon the Peninsula of Kamschatka. Climate. Agriculture. Breeding of Cattle. Productions. Beasts. Birds. Fish.. Berries. Roots. Forest Trees - 512

Chapter XIV

The Kamschadale Dogs, considered as draught Animals. The species of Dogs used for the Purpose. Their Mode of Life. Castration. Docking. Mode of Treatment in their Infancy. Names. Food. The Post Stations. Number required for a Sledge. Their Swiftness. The Leader. Their Price. Preference above Horses. Their Diseases. The Harness. The Sledges. The Ostoll. The Snow-shoes. The Ice-shoes. The Posluki. The Journies in Sledges 527

Chapter XV

Particular Occurrences during our Stay at Kamschatka. Arrival of Lieutenants Schwostoff and Davidoff at St. Peter and St. Paul. Their secret Expedition against the Japanese Settlements. Death of the Chamberlain Von Resanoff. Further Proceedings of the secret Expeditions. Death of Lieutenants Schwostoff and Davidoff. Balls at Kamschatka. Music. Hot Springs at Malka. Journey to Nischney Kamschatka. Werchnoi Kamschatka. Milkowoi. Klutschi. Description of Nischney Kamschatka 545

Chapter XVI

Departure from Nischney Kamschatka. Death of Redoffski. High Chain of Mountains. Excursion to the Coraks. Their Rein-deer. Manners and Customs. Western Side of the Peninsula of Kamschatka. The principal Towns. Return to St. Peter and St. Paul 559

Chapter XVII

Voyage from Kamschatka to Ochotsk. Short description of the latter Place. Journey from Ochotsk to Jakutsk. Remarkable Occurrences and Geographical Observations. Names of the different Towns in the route. Arrival at Jakutsk. Catalogue of Plants collected in this Journey 572

Chapter XVIII

Journey from Jakutsk to Irkutsk. Difficulties attendant upon this Journey. Description of the principal Places in the • O..TENTS. Route, Olekma, Witim, Kirenki, Wercholensk, with their Distances from each other. Remarkable Occurrences. Plants, Minerals, &c. Arrival at Kakschuk. The Bratski or R-uratians. Arrival at Irkutsk, and Description of the Place. Visit to Kiachta. Journey through Tobolsk, Ka san, and Moscow, to St. Petersburgh ...

Part I. Voyage From Compenh Agen To Brazil, The South Sea, Kamschatka

AND JAPAN. C VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.

Chapter I

Voyage from Copenhagen to England. — Stay at Fal~ mouth.— Voyage to Teneriffe. — Description qf that Island, and of the Peak. — Voyage to Brazil. ALTHOUGH our anchor was weighed at Copenhagen on the eighth of September, 1803, we were still obliged, on account of contrary winds, to delay our departure for some days, and Could not leave Elsinore till the fifteenth. In the night between the eighteenth and nineteenth a violent storm arose, which occasioned great sickness among those of our passengers who were unused to the sea ; of whom were the cavaliers belonging to the ambassador's train. The ship rolled terribly, and it was impossible to have any thing cooked in the kitchen. The roaring of the wind, the raging of the sea, the hurrying to and fro among the sailors, the elbowing, the jostling, the crying out, altogether furnished a scene entirely new to most of our company.

In the evening of the nineteenth, the attention of every body was 'particularly attracted by an uncommonly fine aurora-borealis. From the horizon in the north-north-west streams of light rose like pillars of sire, wearing sometimes a deeper, sometimes a paler appearance : ascending quite to the zenith like demi-arches, they gradually grew paler and paler, till they were at length entirely lost in the atmosphere. The weather continued very variable, sometimes stormy, sometimes calm, sometimes fair, sometimes rainy, till early in the morning of the twenty-eighth j when we arrived off Falmouth. Here our commander, VOYAGE FROM COPENHAGEN TO ENGLAND. Captain Von Krusenstern, determined to stop, in order to take in an additional stock of provisions, and to furnish himself with some instruments and other things of which he stood in need.

This port, which stands upon the south-western promontory of England, has an ex ceedingly good harbour. It is defended on one side by a castle, and on the other by a small fort. With regard to die situation and anchorage, it is considered as one of the best ports in England. The town is small and insignificant. All the packets for Portugal, and for the East and West Indies, sail from hence. This con stant intercourse of packets sailing and returning, in conjunction with the fisheries, form the principal sup port of the place. Though the town lies at the distance of nearly three hundred miles from the capital, it con tains excellent shops, of every kind. Falmouth is in the county of Cornwall ; a district which, on account of its dry, desert, and unfruitful as pect, makes a very different apptearance from all other parts of England.

But the county has, notwithstanding, its hidden treasures, in the abundance of mines buried beneath the surface, furnishing excellent tin and copper, some silver, and mineral coal. The mineralo gist may indeed find here some invaluable rarities : copperearth strongly impregnated with arsenic, stan num ligneum, and pyrites of tin. The mines, most productive, next to those of Falmouth, are the copper mines of Redruth. A few miles from Falmouth is a small village called Manacha, which has its name from mechanite or titanian-sand. To get the mineral pure, great pains must be taken to wash it well from the sand.* The shafts and course of the mines about Pen zance and other places in Cornwall are among the most remarkable upon the globe ; some of them lying at a . great depth, and being worked underneath the sea itself.

The sea-coast abounds with crabs, oysters, and va- * Counsellor Klaproth, of Berlin, through the favour of Sir John Hawkins, possesses a complete collection of thc minerals of Cornwall, which he has examined chemically, to ascertaitl their composition. STAY As FALMOUTH. 21 rious kinds of fish. The fish-market is always plenti fully supplied. Among others that I saw during my stay, were the ra a batis, or skate; raia rubus gmel, the ray ; esox belone, the sea pike ; mullus barbatus, the red mullet ; murana conger, the conger eel ; and several sorts of labrus, perca, and pleuronectes. Squali, or dog-fish, were also taken, but were never brought to market. They were kept to serve for baits in ang ling. The trigla lineata, which abounds here, and the clupea pilchardus, a small sort of herring very little known, particularly attracted my attention.

These latter fish are taken in immense quantities. They are served at the tables both of the rich and poor ; and vast quantities are cured, which are sent to Gibraltar and the Mediterranean. After having procured an abundant supply of provisions, and having taken on board every thing we es teemed necessary for so important and distant a voyage, we saluted the fort and guardship, and on the fifth of October quitted the shores of Europe, with fair weather and a favorable wind. The speculations of every one were now turned towards the probable fate which was before him. - Separated from the rest ofthe world, the sport of the winds and waves, with no other objects in view but the sea and the sky, and at every hour removed farther from parents, brethren, relations, friends, from every thing, in short, most dear to us, it was scarcely possible not to find some feelings of regret now and then intruding themselves upon our minds.

Captain Von Krusenstern preferred steering his course, in the first instance, towards Teneriffe rather than Madeira ; because the landing at the latter is much more expensive than at the former, and all kinds of provisions are much dearer. Our course was there fore directed towards the Canary Islands. The Eng lish coast was soon out of sight, and the great Atlantic Ocean lay extended before us. Many people have the idea that a very long sea voyage cannot be otherwise than extremely ennuyeux. Since nothing is to be seen day after day but the sea and the sky, they conceive that the mind of every one must be wearied with such VOYAGE TO TENERIFFE. an eternal uniformity. But this is seldom or never the case. It is only so with those who are equally a prey to ennui upon terra firma ; who are in fact always ennuye, unless they are at a ball, a concert, the theatre, or cards.

But in an expedition such as our's among a numerous society of learned and scientific men, eager in the search of knowledge, it was impossible to experience ennui. It might even be asserted with truth, that there was scarcely an individual among us who could not have found abundant occupation, even if our days had been twice their actual length. I will endeavor to give a general idea of the manner in which our time was passed. Those who were the latest in rising, were yet ready for their tea or coffee by eight in the morning. The common topics of conversation at breakfast were the occurrences of the night ; whether the wind and the weather had been favourable or unfavourable ; and how far the ship had proceeded in her course. After breakfast each repaired to his own private business. In a numerous and well-assorted library, particularly of travels and works of geography, which Captain Krusenstern with great politeness left free to all the company, it was not difficult to find entertainment for many hours in the day.

So that the morning was passed in reading, writing, drawing, taking the height of the sun, and calculating the distance of the moon. The Canary Islands, which we hoped to reach in a few days, naturally occupied our minds very much. All descriptions of them from the pens of former travellers by whom they had been visited were in consequence eagerly sought after. Every one had studied assiduously their history, the different accounts given ofthe discovery of them, the descriptions of their situation, of their products, and of the manners and cus toms of the inhabitants. Comparisons were made between the accounts of different travellers. The former and present mode of their government were studied, with the chances of war that had befallen them ; particularly the unsuccessful attack made upon the principal island by tlie English, when the brave Nelson lost his right arm.

All these things furnished abundant matter for pleasant and instrucfive conversation, for scientific emulation, and even gave occasion for sallies of wit and mirth. If we happened to get somewhat heated in conversation, we repaired to the deck to walk up and down, and cool ourselves by breathing the fresh air. Shoals of dolphins, delphinus delphis, of pelamides, scomber pelamis, of flying-fish, exoccetus volans ; the fuci floating upon the surface ofthe water; the sharks following the ship ; numerous sorts of aquatic birds unknown to us before ; the whales ; a poor land-bird driven from the shore through the force of the winds, and which sought an asylum in the vessel ; an unknown ship seen in the horizon; the expectation of approaching the land ; all these, and a thousand other objects, occupied our attention, enlivening and varying the scene so much, that I am almost inclined to think a sea voyage not at all less amusing than a journey by land : with the reserve, that no stops are made at the towns and villages through which the road lies.