Travels in Brazil

Front matter

TRAVELS IN BRAZIL. VOL. I. Printed by A. Strahan, Printers-Street, London. l:„.l.;,.J„l.:,,-,,.;t J,,,,,.,;,!,,,,,,,. ,„ /.,„,„,„„„ JJm Sid-HUU sculp V 7„,-.s/. A', «■..*. ,»/ym- .<■/'>■'-"■-" i;il.r„, ..,-/./■ A',.,. TRAVELS IN BRAZIL. BY HENRY ROSTER. SECOND EDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PA TERHOSTER-RO W. 1817. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, Esg. POET LAUREATE, MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SPANISH ACADEMY, AND OF THE ROYAL SPANISH ACADEMY OF HISTORY, THESE TRAVELS ARE INSCRIBED . By HENRY KOSTER, in MEMORIAL OK AFFECTIONATE RESPECT AND GRATITUDE. A

Preface

. »s\URING my residence in Brazil, I had no intention of publishing any account of what I had seen and heard in that country. Some time after my return to England, I was encouraged to put together the information which I might be able to impart. The reader will be more disposed to excuse what defects he may find, when he is in formed that I went out young, that I did not gather any knowledge of the country in a systematic manner with the idea of giving it to the public, and that the idiom of a foreign language is perhaps more familiar to me than that of my own. But among judicious readers the style of works of this description will be regarded as of little importance. I have had the advantage of Mr. Southey's advice and extensive library. I have to thank Dr. Traill for his aid in preparing the Appendix ; though as he did

PREFACE.

. VIII not see the whole of it, if there are any errors they must be attributed to me, not to him. The drawings for the plates were executed by a near relative, from very rough sketches of my own, assisted by description. The outline of the map is taken from Mr. Arrowsmith's large map of South America ; and the names and situations of some places are corrected, and others are inserted from my own knowledge. The plan of the har bour of Pernambuco was furnished to me by an English gentleman resident at Recife, who is indefatigable in the search of what ever may contribute to the increase of knowledge. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAP. I. ■T|EPARTURE from Liverpool. — Arrival at Per ■•" nambuco. — The Town and Harbour of Recife. — The Governor. — The Trade - - - - Page 1 CHAP. II. Visit to the Governor. — The Climate First Ride into the Country. — Residence at a Village in the Neighbourhood of Recife. — Olinda. — Holy Thursday. — Good Friday. — Easter Sunday. — Profession of a Friar. — St. Peter's Day. — Visit to a Brazilian Family. — A Dance. — Another Visit to Olinda 17 CHAP. III.

The [Government. — The Taxes. — The Public Institutions. — Criminals. — Prisons. — Military Establishments. — The Island of Fernando de Noronha 46 CHAP. IV. Journey to Goiana. — Journey from Goiana to Paraiba, and back to Goiana -------- 64 CHAP. V. Journey from Goiana to Rio Grande. — The City of Natal.— The Governor -------- 86 *A X CONTENTS. CHAP. VI. Continuation of the Journey. — Fi-om Natal to Acu 113 CHAP. VII. Continuation of the Journey. — From Acu to Aracati. — From Aracati to Seara. — Indians. — The late Governor. —The Family of the Feitozas 152 CHAP. VIII. Return. — From Seara to Natal. — Sertanejos. — Cattle. — Vegetable Wax. — From Natal to Recife 203 CHAP. IX. Voyage from Pernambuco to Maranham. — St. Luiz. — Trade. — Wild Indians. — The Governor. — Alcantara. — The Author sails from St. Luiz and arrives in England ------------- 259 CHAP. X. The Author sets sail from Gravesend, and arrives at Pernambuco. — State of Recife. — Journey to Bom Jardim with a Capitam-mor, and return to Recife 293 CHAP. XI.

Residence at Jaguaribe. — Journey to Goiana. — Illness. — Return to Jaguaribe ------ - 333 CHAP. XII. Journey to Uninha. — Continuation of my Residence at Jaguaribe. — Negro Brotherhood of Olinda. — Blessing the Sugar- Works. — Mandingueiros and Valentoens -------------371 DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. VOL. I. Plan of the Port of Pernambuco to face the References. A Jangada - ... . . Page 4 Map of the Route 64 Crossing a River 82 A Sertanejo 135 Fishing Canoe 277 A Lady going to visit - 297 A Cotton-carrier - - — - - 305 VOL. II. A Sugar-Mill - - , - - - 141 A Planter and his Wife on a Journey - REFERENCES TO THE PLAN OF THE PORT OF PERNAMBUCO. A. The bridge of Boa Vista. B. The bridge of Recife. C. Fort Bom Jezus. D. Fort Picam. E. FortBrum. F. Cross of Patram. G. Fort Buraco. H. The village of Arrombados.

I. The church of St. Amaro. K. Jerusalem. a. Houses and gardens. b. The Carmelite convent. c. The church of Sacramento (parish). d. The Franciscan convent. e. The Treasury. f. The Palace. g. The cotton wharf (commonly called Forte do Mato). h. The Madre de Deos convent. i. The church of Corpo Santo (parish). k. The Intendencia da Marinha (dock yard) and King's wharf. To enter the port, coming in from sea, keep Fort Picam and Fort Brnm in one, until you have the point of Olinda bearing N., then steer due N., until the cross of Patram is in one with the coco-nut trees on St. Amaro, then steer directly for the same cross of Patram, until you open the inner part of the reef above water, with Fort Picam to the southward, where you may come to anchor, or stand on to the southward into the harbour of Mosqueiro.

To enter the channel for smaller vessels coming from sea, keep the same mark, Fort Picam and Fort Brum in one, until you are within a quarter of a mile of Fort Picam, then bring the two southern watch-towers on Fort Brum in one, you clearing the northern extremity of the reef above water, and hauling short round the same, keep the reef close aboard until you are in the harbour of Mosqueiro. TRAVELS IN BRAZIL,