Travels in the South of Spain, in letter written A.D. 1809 and 1810

Preface

. 1 he following pages contain the substance of Letters written to my family and friends during six months which I passed in Spain ; they have, however, undergone such alterations as were necessary to render what was originally intended for private amusement, not totally unfit for public perusal ; and those which relate to the Mahomedan dominion, have been entirely composed since my return. In addition to what I have borrowed from Ocampo, Masdeu, and Mariana, I am also indebted to a very accurate abstract of the state of the Moors in Granada, written by Simon de Argote. It will be perceived, that I have only paid that attention to political subjects which the interesting events, daily passing before me, naturally demanded. I believe, it will be found, that my opinions of public

PREFACE.

. VI characters, of the nature of the government, and of the disposition of the great mass of the people, are coiToborated by all who have visited the Peninsula; and I feel additional confidence in the sanction they receive from the able letter of the Marquis Wellesley to Mr. Canning, which is printed in the Appendix. The traces of national character are so strongly marked on the inhabitants of Spain, that few English men who have visited that country, would find much difficulty in delineating its prominent features. What ever opinions we may entertain with respect to domestic politics, we all unite in admiring the efforts of the Spanish people, in their attempt to liberate themselves from oppression. We all join in respecting the manly firmness with which, after repeated reverses, they continue to resist their invaders ; in execrating the government which has so grossly abused their confidence ; and in fervently wishing their ultimate freedom and happiness.

I am desirous to rectify an error into which I have fallen, respecting the conspiracy formed in Seville, to overthrow the central Junta. I have learnt since

PREFACE.

. VII the following sheets were printed, that Lord Wellesley did not name the individual regiments implicated in that plot, nor did he find it expedient to communicate to the government so much of the detail of that project as I had reason to believe he did, from the information I acquired in Seville. While I pay this tribute to accuracy, it is a satisfaction to know, that the respectable authority which has enabled me to correct this error, has, at the same time, confirmed the truth of the other circumstances I have related respecting that conspiracy. In preparing this work for the press, it has been my object to select such materials only, as I conceived would interest and amuse, while they might convey some information. To myself, amidst many anxieties, it has been a pleasing resource to retrace the scenes I had viewed, and to travel over again the roads I had passed.

JUVAT EXHAUSTOS ITERARE EABORES, ET SULCATA MEIS PERCURRERE LITTORA REMIS. London, March 1, 181 CONTENTS. Letter. Pag< ;e. I. Departure from England — Storm — Surgeon's accident — Sight of Cape St. Vincent — View off Lagos — St. Lucar — Fleet bound for England 1 II. Report of the political state of Spain, given by an American — General Virues — Arrival at Cadiz — View in the Bay — Impressions on landing — Interior of the houses — Gallegos — Narrowness of the streets — Alameyda — Composition of the Rocks — Temple of Hercules . , 5 III. Climate — Temperance — Gaming — Theatre — Visiting — Ladies; their attending the churches — Female independence and education 14 IV. Markets — Convent of St. Juan de Dios — Friar preaching — His sermon — Cathedral — Pictures — Gold and silver ornaments — Unfinished Cathedral — Convent of Capuchins — Its excellent pictures — Dragon's-blood tree — Scarcity of good water SO V. Solano — His equitable government previous to the Revolution — Wants confidence in the people — Declines joining the Patriots — Exasperates them — Is put to death 35- VI.

Remarks on the political state of Spain — General complaints of the Junta — Determined hostility to the French — Neglect of the manufactory of muskets — Brass cannon 31 VII. Departure from Cadiz — Santa Maria — Beggars — Roads — Face of the country — Xeres — Wines — Rent of Land — Population of Xeres — Recruits — Climate . 37 VIII. Country around Xeres — Castle of Lebrixa — Its antiquity — Convent — Its Library — Massacre of French Prisoners — Sculpture of Alonso Cano — History of Cano — Roman desertion ". 45 IX. Maresma — Pelion — Entrance to Seville — Religious procession — Inn — Irish hospitality — Marquis Wellesley's reception — Conspiracy against the Junta — Misconduct of the Junta — Political feelings , 54 b CONTENTS. X Letter. PaSe X. Members of the Government — Garay — Marquis de Villel — Count Tiili — Don Vin- 'cente Hore — Requelme — Caro-Calvo — Cornel — Jovellanos — Saavedra — Count Altamira — Causes of the choice of Members — Powers of the members from Valencia — Cause of errors in Spanish politics — Evils of the present system 6 1 XI.

General appearance of the city — Streets — Houses — Walks — Public Buildings — Fabrica de Tobaco — Snuff — St. Elmo — Bad naval education — Ignorance of professors — Aqueduct — Cannon foundery — Copper mines of Rio Tinto — Walls and gates 71 XII. La Lonja — American papers — Juan de Herrera — Casa Moneda — Alcazar — Time of erection — Interior — Moorish garden — Ancient sculpture — House of Don Josse Maria Perez — High mass — Religion — Preaching — Auricular confession 79 XIII. Religion — Shrines — Oracion — Procession of the Host — Rosario — Modes of salutation — Family devotion — Use of the cross — Robbery of a bishop - — Inquisition : extent of its power — Olavide — Interior of the Inquisition 89 XIV. Church revenues — Cabildo — Property in houses — Tithes — Modes of collecting — AVild fruits subject to tithes — Monastic property — Property of corporations . . 97 XV.

Fair at Santi-Ponce — National character — Cortejos — Familiarity of manners — General temperance — Deficiency of household comforts — Culinary implements — Cookery 103 XVI. Parochial schools — National education — Want of information in the higher classes — University of Seville — Female education 109 XVII. Paintings — General taste for pictures — Murillo — His paintings in the Caridad — In the cathedral of Seville — Account of the life of that celebrated artist 114 XVIII. Paintings of Pedro de Campana in the church of Santa Cruz — Account of his life — Architecture of the cathedral — Zaragozina — St. Ferdinand's day — Alcala de los panaderos — Gondul 121 XIX. Convent of the Carthusians — Its pictures — Paintings of Zubaran — Convent of St. Hieronymo — Anecdote of Torrigiano — Capuchins — Their library — Hospital de la Sangre 127 XX.

Arrival of Lord Wellington — Santi Ponce — Roman antiquities — Nuns in the convent of St. Leandro — Conversation with them — Anecdote 134 XXI. Tertulia of Countess Villamanrique — Matteroso — Arguilles — State of Manners Marchioness Calzado's party — Society of Angulo — Padre Cepero — Capmany — Padre Blanco 140 XXII. Agriculture — Esparto — Pita— Opuntia— Palmitos— Olives— Oil-manufactories — Wines — Wheat — Mode of Irrigation — Liquorice — Potatoes CONTENTS. XI Letter. Page. XXIII. Cows — Horses — Mules — Asses — Sheep — Mode of cleaning wool — Flocks of Merino sheep — Account of their migrations — Method of rearing them 154 XXIV. Trade — Leather manufactory — Swords — Bayonets — Musket-balls — Silk-looms — Shops — Booksellers — Tax of Alcavala — Escrivanos 163 XXV. Journey from Seville to Cadiz — Reception of Lord Wellesley and Lord Wellington — Bull fight at St. Mary's — Spanish fondness for this diversion 171 XXVI.

Spanish men of war — Naval officers — Admiral Alava — Alviar — Naval arsenal — Skill of the Spaniards in managing boats — Battle of Trafalgar 176 XXVIL Fortifications of Cadiz — Cortadura — Rope manufacory at Puntales — Commerce — Restrictions on shipping — Articles of export — Consulado 182 XXVIIL Defeat of the army of La Mancha — Journey to Seville — Alteration in its appearance — Revero president ofthe Junta — Recruits — Curiosities of Xeres — Carthusian convent — Calvarios — Burials 138 XXIX. Isla de Leon — Pantheon — Puente de Zuarzos — Salt pits — Chiclana — Game — Cortos — Church of St. Anna — Mineral springs at Chiclana — Christmas party — Strolling players 194 XXX. Spanish character — Want of combination — Hatred of the French — View of the probable state of Spain hereafter 303 XXXI.

Voyage to Gibraltar — View in the Straits — Fortifications — St Michael's cave — Rock of Gibraltar — Apes — Library — Commerce — Strict discipline 205 XXXII. Carteia — St. Roque — Estepona — Road along the coast — City of Marvella — Visit and compliments of the corregidor and alcalde — Tannery 213 XXXIII. Town of Mija — Marble — Forts on the coast — Ancient castle — View from an eminence — Fuengerola — Dreary road — Torre-Molinos — Marcus Crassus . . 219 XXXIV. Alameyda at Malaga — Castle of Gibralfaro — Cathedral — Revenues of the benefice — Bishop's palace — Climate — Productions — Sugar — Cotton — Commerce — Volunteers — General Blake — Anecdote of Admiral Blake 225 3X3XXV. Population of Malaga — Fever in 1804 — Agriculture — Ploughs — Manufacture of Sugar — Growth of the Sugar-cane — Its cultivation of very ancient date. . . . 236 XXXVI.

Beautiful country around Velez — Cultivation of the Valleys — Vineyards — Seasons of vintage — Olives — Oil — Mills — Figs — Oranges 243 XXXVII. Country around Venuela — Alhama — Its agriculture — Corn fields — Threshing floors — Salt springs at Ahnaha — View of Granada and its environs 248 XXXVIII. Sketch of the Moorish dominions in Spain CONTENTS. Letter. PaSe' XXXIX. Continuation of the history of the Moors in Granada — Their submission to Ferdinand Progress of the Moors in the cultivation of science — Their skill in physic and the fine arts 264 XL. Agriculture of the Moors — Silks — Cloths — Porcelain — Leather — Fine arts — Manners — Government — Revenues — Military establishment 275 XLI. Approach to the Alhambra — Gate of judgment — Plaza de los algibes — Palace of Charles the Fifth — Court of the lions — Hall of the Abencerraxes — (Queen's dressing room — Gencraliffe 282 XLII.

Market-place — Bazar — Cathedral — Court of Justice — Remarks on the laws of Spain — Patriotism of the inhabitants of Granada — Preparations for the convocation of the Cortes 289 XLIII. Elevation of the mountains — Observations respecting the mountainous district — Wheat — Rice — Hemp — Flax — Silk-worms — Wine — Oil — Rapid advance of the French 296 XLIV. Santa Fee — Sota de Roma — Town of Loxa — Mountainous district — Chiuma — La Pena de los enamorados 305 XLV. Population of Antequera — Its antiquity — Paintings of Mohedano — Variety of shrubs — Mineral springs — Salt lake — Manufactures 311 XLVI. El Torcal — Town of Alora — Its antiquity — Spanish rhodomontade — Casarabonela — Its romantic situation 317 XLVII. Mountains near Casarabonela — El Burgo — Ruins of Acinipo — Conjectures respecting the scite of Munda — Arrival at Ronda 323 XLVIII.

Fertility of Ronda — Cresta de Gallo — Mineral productions of the mountains — Romantic situation of the city of Ronda — Cueva del Gato — Curious reservoir . 329 XLIX. Observations on the persons, dress, and manners, of the Spanish peasantry -*- Their generosity — Contrabandists 337 L. Dominican convent at Ronda — Singular situation of Zahara — Algaucin — Visit to the Corregidor — Cheerful evening — Departure from Algaucin — Arrival at St. Roque oa, LI. Advance of the Frenqb — General Castanps — His success — Ingratitude of the Junta towards him — Destruction of sons near Gibraltar ' 352 LII. Departure from Gibraltar — Wild scenery between that place and Vegel — Singular situation of the town of Vegel — Duchess of Medina Celi — Arrival at Cadiz. . . 358 Llll. Ve.iegas— His appointment — State of Seville at the entrance ofthe French — Duke of Albuquerque '_ „si.

CONTENTS. Letter. Page. LIV. Destruction of the forts surrounding Cadiz — French prisoners — English garrison expected — People of St. Mary's preparing to fly — Flag of truce 372 LV. Junta of Cadiz — Election of the Regents — Bishop of Orense — Castanos — Saavedra — Escano — Lardizabal 378 LVI. Entrance of the French into St. Mary's — Military narratives — Limited views of the Junta of Cadiz 385 LVII. Arrival of British troops at Cadiz — Passage home — Arrival off Portsmouth 392 POSTSCRIPT 396

Appendix

. Copy of a Letter fiom Sir A. Wellesley to the Marquis Wellesley, dated Merida, August 24, 1809 1 From the same to the same, dated Merida, August 31, 1809 6 From the same to the same, dated Merida, September 1, 1809 8 Copy of a Dispatch from the Marquis Wellesley to the Right Honourable George Canning, dated Seville, September 15, 1809 15 Population and Extent of Spain, 1803 31 Itinerary of Antoninus in the South of Spain. , DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. I. Map of Cadiz --------------- to face the Title-page. II. La Lonja ----------------------- 80 III. Etching of the Inquisition ----------------- 95 IV. Cathedral of Seville - - - - 122 V. Alcala de los Pan aderos ---------------- --1 25 VI. Carthusian Convent 191 VII. Calvario at Xeres - 192 VIII. Custom-house at Malaga -- - 226 IX. Cathedral of Malaga - 227 X. Alhambra in Granada ------------------- 282 XI.

Palace of Charles V. 2S4 XII. Bridge at Ronda - - - , - - - - 3332 XIII. Gibraltar :■ ERRATA. Page 11.1. 21. for " a broad street," read " Broad Street." 91.1. 18. for " Va ja" read " vaja." 95. 1. 1. for " in this city," read " in Spain." 152. 1. 1. for " lanega." rend " fanegada." 195. 1. 19. for " Zuarzo," read " Suaco." 195. 1, 24. for " Zuarzo," read " Suaco.'"

Letter I. Departure From England Storm Surgeon's Accident Sight Of Cape St

VINCENT VIEW OFF LAGOS ST. LUCAR FLEET BOUND FOR ENGLAND. ON BOARD THE SARAGOSSA, 30 MILES N. W. OF THE ROCK OF LISBON, 11 SEPT. lS0<L 1 SIT down, in spite of the rolling of the ship, to begin a letter, which I shall finish at intervals, and have in readiness to send you by any vessel we may meet, or shall forward it the first moment of my arrival at Cadiz ; which, if the wind continue in its present favourable state, will I hope be within two or tbree days. After waiting a few hours without the Needles for the Crescent to join us, we followed tlie fleet, under convoy of the Nymphe frigate, consisting of one hundred and fifty sail of vessels, bound to Spain and Por tugal. The wind was favourable, and the weather remarkably fine, till we got off Plymouth, when it began to rain and blow very violently.

Having been detained by the fleet, which was to wait off that port till joined by some other vessels, and thinking the three ships, the Ann, the Crescent, and Saragossa, of sufficient force to protect us from capture, I determined to proceed without waiting for convoy. B The winds were sufficiently favourable for tbree days to carry us across the bay of Biscay, but too much to the westward to enable us to weather Cape Finisterre : the sea was so agitated that it produced sickness in the General, Don Ramon, and Mr. Ridout. The wind becoming still more westerly, we could not get round Cape Finisterre, and Were beating about for three days betwixt that point and Cape Ortegal without making any progress. On the 8th we had a most tremendous storm the whole day and great part of the night ; the ship rolled most violently, and, to use the sailors language, " we shipped a sea."

To add to our misfortunes, in the height of the storm, and in a dark night, the Surgeon of the ship was, by the rolling of the vessel, thrown with such force from the sky-light over the cabin against one of the quarter-deck guns, that both the bones of one of his legs were broken a little above the ancle. You may judge of the distress we were thrown into by this unfor tunate accident, when you consider, that in the midst of the difficulties surrounding us, we had no surgical assistance at hand, the Ann having parted from us in the gale ; and, indeed, had she been in company, the sea ran too high to admit her affording us the aid of her Surgeon. The young man bore his sufferings with fortitude ; and when laid in a cot, gave the necessary directions with great coolness. I was anxious the bones should be set immediately ; but as a swelling very soon took place, he determined to defer it till the next day : cold applications were applied, to lessen the inflammation, and he slept well.

The next morning he prepared the proper banda o-es with his own hands, and gave directions respecting the mode of re ducing the fracture. Under his instructions the operation was performed so accurately, even by persons previously ignorant of the busi ness, that he is now as well, and as likely to recover, as if the best surgeon had been employed. We have had fair wind ever since yesterday morning, and are at this time (for I began this letter three hours ago) very near Lisbon, running along the coast of Portugal at the rate of ten miles an hour and hope to reach Cape St. Vincent's this evening if the wind continue as favourable as it is at this moment. You can scarcely conceive the great difference that has taken place in our looks and spirits since the wind changed : M'hile we were beating about between Cape Ortegal and Cape Finisterre, all was gloom and melancholy ; now every one is alert, active, and as full of enjoyment as the narrow confines of our floating habitation will per mit.

I have found General Virues a most interesting and intelligent companion ; and I have the pleasure of constantly conversing with him, as far as my progress in the Spanish language will allow. Don Ramon and Don Pedro, with Mr. Ridout, have proved a valuable addition to our society, and excepting the storm, the contrary winds off Corunna, and the Surgeon's distressing accident, we have passed the time better than could be expected on board a ship, even with all our present accommodations. SEPT. 12, 7 O'CLOCK, MORNING. We have had very quick sailing all night, and are now close to Cape St. Vincent's, with a wind that affords us the expectation of seeing Cadiz to-morrow morning. At the extremity of the Cape, from which we are now only a mile distant, stands a large Convent, built of white stone.

The country round appears very barren ; not a tree is to be seen through the whole extent of the coast. The rocks are strikingly picturesque, but, as far as I can judge, not higher than those of Portland. 10 o'clock. We are now abreast of the town of Lagos, near enough to see the country, which is covered with vineyards, and apparently thickly peopled. The churches and houses are all white ; and, by the flat roofs and turrets seem in the style of Moorish architecture. There are several convents in sight, and a prodigious high mountain rises in the back ground, covered with woods. From the columns of smoke ascending, we suppose they are making charcoal, as I understand the cities of St. Lucar and Cadiz are chiefly supplied with that article from this place. SEPTEMBER 14, 8 O'CLOCK, MORNING.

The last two days we have had continual calms, and have con sequently made but little progress. We are however now in sight of St. Lucar ; and our present fair, though gentle breeze, will pro bably carry us to Cadiz before night. We are in the midst of a small fleet bound thence to England, and I avail myself of the opportunity to transmit this letter by one of the ships. I have enjoyed good health and spirits, and am as comfortable as I can be, when removed from all the objects of my warmest affections.

Letter II. Report Of The Political State Of Spain, Given By An

AMERICAN GENE- RAL VIRUES ARRIVAL AT CADIZ VIEW IN THE BAY IMPRESSIONS ON LANDING INTERIOR OF THE HOUSES GALLEGOS NARROWNESS OF THE STREETS ALAMEYDA COMPOSITION OF THE ROCKS — TEMPLE OF HER- CULES. CADIZ, SEPT. 1809. AFTER closing my letter off St. Lucar, we sent it on board one of the vessels bound to England, and the mate who conveyed it was directed to procure every information in his power. When he returned, he communicated to us the report of the Captain (an American) of the state of affairs in Spain, which, though proceeding from an authority extremely questionable, occasioned us at the time a good deal of uneasiness : he related that a battle had been fought between the armies ; that the Spaniards fired only once, and then over the heads of the enemy, when they instantly fled in all directions, abandoning their arms, entirely dispersing, and leaving the British alone to contend with the French, who, being consequently defeated, had retired towards Lisbon ; that Buonaparte was expected in Cadiz in a few days, where the wealthy inhabitants and all the British were wholly occupied in embarking their property, and preparing for a removal.

You will easily suppose this sad intelligence produced a damp on all our spirits ; the worthy General, in particular, felt it in the severest manner, and the calm melancholy marked in his counte nance made me sympathise with him sincerely in all his feelings. We were heartily glad when the first boat from the shore reached us to hear the whole account declared a falsehood, originating solely in the fertile imagination of this mischievous American. Of all the foreigners with whom I have been acquainted, none ever obtained a larger portion of my respect, I may almost say affec tion, than General Virues : the contemplative and benevolent turn of mind which he discovered during the fourteen days we spent together in the narrow inclosure of the cabin of a ship, impressed these feelings upon me in a manner too powerful to be readily forgotten.

He entered early in life into the Army, and now at forty years of age has attained the rank of Major-General. His whole time, how ever, has not been occupied in the service ; he has been employed in the civil department, and was at one period Secretary to Godoy, Prince of Peace, and Prime Minister of Spain. He was nominated about five years ago one of a Board of Commissioners for investigating the evils under which Spain suffered, and for suggesting remedies to cure those evils. Much progress was made by the Commissioners in their investigation, and many useful plans were recommended and measures adopted to put them in execution ; but the Cabinet of Madrid was solely directed by the Ambassador of France ; and all these well contrived plans were forbidden to be adopted. The Gene ral clearly foresaw, even at that early period, every indication of the designs of France upon Spain gradually developing : he saw it with disgust, and retired from the Court to the government of St. Lucar to which he had been appointed.

He had been the protege and pupil of Don Thomas Morla, who was Governor of Cadiz, and who, whatever may be thought of his courage or his patriotism, has evinced by his publications, that he is a good mathematician and a complete master of the theory of a soldier's profession. When Morla was called to Madrid, after the massacre of Solano and the capture of the French ships, Virues succeeded him in the government of Cadiz ; a situation where I can conceive at that moment there was occasion for intrigue, conciliation, and subserviency to popular feelings, which General Virues in the simplicity and integrity of his character could not descend to practise. He was beloved by all who knew him till the unfortunate events at Madrid rendered Morla suspected of treason to the cause of Spain. Virues, impressed with grateful recollections of early attachment, justified or rather exculpated the conduct of his patron, whom he supposed to be an unwilling instrument in the hands of his superior officer when he agreed to the capitulation of Madrid.

Be this as it may, the disgrace of Morla was visited on Virues, and he conceded so much to public feeling, that he resigned the command of Cadiz and went to England on a mission from the government. I shall always esteem that a happy event which threw him in my way and enabled me to treat him with those attentions which are grateful to a foreigner, and of which he appears very sensible. We got into the harbour about twelve o'clock; but it being the custom here as well as at the ports in the Mediterranean, to have the state of the crew's health of every ship accurately ascertained before any intercourse with the shore be allowed, we were de tained on board a considerable time, and should certainly not have landed that day if General Virues had not exerted his influence with the Pratique Master and passed his word for the health of all on board.

These regulations appear troublesome ; but such precautions are necessary to prevent the introduction of the plague and other infectious diseases. This necessity is now peculiarly felt from the recollection of the dreadful epidemic fever by which this city as well as Gibraltar, Malaga, and the adjacent towns on the South coast of Spain suffered so severely a few years ago. The view on entering the bay of Cadiz presents the finest col lection of objects that can be conceived : on one extremity of the left point is situated the town of Rota, a little farther the castle of Santa Catalina and the neat city of Santa Maria : at a greater distance, on the lap of a lofty hill, stands Medina ; nearer the sea the town of Puerto Real and the arsenal of the Carracas ; and on the extremity of the right hand point of land the city of Cadiz.

To add to the splendour of the scene, this extensive bay was filled with the vessels of different nations displaying their respective colours amidst a forest of masts. The whiteness of the houses, their size and apparent cleanliness, the magnificence of the public edifices, and the neat and regular fortifications form together a most striking assemblage of objects. The ground opposite to Cadiz has little appearance of verdure ; and, except the vineyards near Santa Maria and Rota, all looked brown and barren. I am aware, that in no other country must I expect the beautiful verdure of England, which, in spite of our hazy atmosphere, enlivens our prospects and gives them a richness and variety which I have looked for in vain in Germany, in America, and the West Indian Islands. We landed between four and five o'clock, at the wharf without the Sea-gate, amidst a crowd of boats which made it difficult to approach the shore.

The precautions of our friends, who had provided a house for our residence, and got our baggage passed through the gates with slight examination, prevented our feeling the inconveni ences usually experienced at first landing in a foreign city. After I had entered the gates, and become a little reconciled to the nauseous effluvia of oil and garlick, I was greatly struck by the extraordinary scene around me ; and could have imagined almost that I had sud denly been dropped from the clouds into the midst of a large masque rade : the variety of dresses and characters, the swarms of people, the height and externally clean appearance of the houses, with the cuiT.ains drawn across from one side to the other and the extreme narrowness of the streets, rendered still more so by the projecting bal conies of painted or gilt iron grating, all produced feelings I never before experienced and which no language can describe.

We took possession of our apartments and were quickly settled : they are only one story from the ground, and with the exception of the staircase which is public and indecently filthy, are tolerably neat and comfortable. The floors are paved with brick, the rooms dark, and consequently cool, with large windows opening into balconies towards the street; which is so narrow that we can almost shake hands with our opposite neigh bour. The furniture is not of the best kind ; the beds, however, which are on tressels and removed in the day, are good ; and the c sheets, which are made of callico with a border of muslin about a quarter of a yard wide, are clean. I have hitherto had no reason to complain of the heat ; in fact, it has not been warmer than some of our hottest days in England. Every thing here seems contrived to guard against heat ; and the inhabitants are certainly successful in the effects produced by their precautions.