The Taunus, or Doings and Undoings, being a tour in search of the picturesque, romantic, fabulous and true

Front matter

NEIAR ST 00AK5HAUSEM. I II I T A U N U S O R But nge anti U n ft 0 t n g 0 BEING A TOUR IN SEARCn OF TnE PICTURESQUE, ROMANTIC, FABULOUS AM) TRUE; THE ROMAN ANTIQUITIES OF TOE TAUNUS, AND THE DONNERSBEBG, TnE MINERAL SPBINGS OF NASSAU, TnE SA1VS AND LEGENDS OF TnE BHINE, LAnN AND NAHE; WITH REFLECTIONS ON THE CHARACTER, MANNERS AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE , By Cljarlee i>. 3ndcft0n. ..This earth of majesty, this scat of Mars This other Etlen , demiparadise, >. Sll IKSP1 1KI IfTEH. TZ , KinCHHEIM, SCHOTT & THIEOIANN MDCCCXXXVII MENTZ : Printed l>y Flohian Kupferiierc. T O II 1* §EREH.E HIGHNESS THE IM ill: OF MASSAU. Sire J-H ot from that feeling1 of vanity by which some times an author is actuated, who through the medium of a high sounding dedication seeks to attach an importance to his work , to which the intrinsic merit of the hook may not entitle it — not to a motive so despicable as a hope of patronage through the means of servile flattery of the great — or from a selfish feeling of interest in the anticipation of a patron's munificence , have I been induced to crave the high honour of dedicating the pages of my humble work to your Serene Highness.

IVo, my object has been through the sanction of your Serene Highness' name to obtain for my countrymen the most authentic information possible, in respect to the objects which my work embraces. Having in the prosecution of these efforts found the utmost urbanity of manners in the officers of government , united with the most ingenuous open ness in imparting information , having in my re searches found very much to merit commendation, X hope a perusal of my work, will exonerate me from the suspicion of courtly adulation, (even with the most liberal,) when I express my admiration of such of the internal regulations of the government, as I hive had an opportunity of seeing, and that through the medium of this dedication , I convey to your Serene Highness my own and my country men's thanks for the protection , hospitality and kinduess we, in common with all visitors to the batbs of this delightful country ever experience, the manifestation of which good feeling, I have reason to know, proceeds from the express wish of your Serene Highness.

That my efforts to delineate the healing qualities of the springs of Nassau, to describe its antiquities, to trace its history , and to paint its romantic beauties , may meet with the approbation of the Sovereign of this Eden of Germany, is the ardent wish of Your Serene Highness' Most obedient, and *very devoted Servant CljarUs tt. 3ndefton.

Preface

J_L had resided but a few days in Mentz , when sur veying from my window — gentle reader the view from thence commands the glorious Rhine , the lovely Main , the Taunus mountains, (Switzerland of Germany, in whose embrace the fruitful fields of Nassau rest) , and the lofty Melibocus bounding the view o'er Darmstadt's sandy plains , when I resolved to make acquaintance with the wide extended scene before me. Quite analogous in feeling with the sentiments I entertained towards the natives of the land was my admiration of the country , and a few short excursions tending to sharpen the edge of my desire for a more intimate know ledge of both, I determined in the society of the one, and mid the romantic scenery of the other to realize my wishes. As in the kindly feeling of the inhabitants there is an indescribable magnetic power, which engenders good will and creates a desire that the seed of acquaintance may germinate in good feeling and finally blossom into friendship; so in the lovely scenes which nature here unfolds with magic splendour to entrance the sight, I felt how ill accorded with the beauties spread before me the cold acquaintance of a day, and I resolved to culli- PltEFACE.

VIII vate a close connection , a bond of fellowship with its mountain heights, its lovely dales, its fertile meads, its silver streams and healing founts ; and ipid the ruins ol its castles, once so proudly frowning o'er the stream, to trace the saw and legend of the bygone day. An ardent love of nature first induced the wish to trace its beauties in this highly favoured land; historic records pointing to the path victorious Drusus trod, or to the spot where valiant Hermann bled, propelled my willing steps; while loved romance, (the very offspring of the soil), presented treasures to my view in saws and legends fairer than ever poet told or minstrel sung , to strew the path I wished to tread. Having to gain these different objects made a pilgrimage exceeding a thousand miles , and therebv gratified my own desire , a question somehow or other arose , whether I should or should not make the result of my observations known to the public for their amusement or information.

Should the reader feel disposed to censure this , as an assumption of ability to accomplish either and as a proof of vanity , though not inclined to shield myself under the mantle that veils the faults of others, yet, surely I may be allowed a small portion of that weakness that attaches itself to our very nature when I see the 7vholesale dealers in the commodity so inflated with this human frailty. Now although a certain measure of this infirmity may have operated as an inducement with me lo present my bantling to the public , English authors who have written in Germany are aware that this , or

PREFACE.

. IX some-other incentive, rather than remuneration must have operated as a spur to exertion ; and I freely confess my object will be fully answered, if my travelling countrymen will but take the bantling in its infant helplessness un der their wing and nourish it in its teens, till neath their protection it may grow into some share of favour with the British public. Led by an amalgamation of feelings gentle reader , long time I argued with the dread of failure , the fros! of disappointment , the world's rude censure , and the blight of my ambition, whether to give mankind the benefit or not of what experience had given me. « Shall I do it? » said vanity and interest: « Shall I leave it undone?)) said diffidence and fear. « To do it or not to do it, that is the question?)) said prudence; but long before the argument was brought to any close , the pros and cons had furnished me with a fair title to my work, and « Doing's and Undoings » was resolved upon.

I have sought through every attainable historic record to render my notices on this interesting subject as correct as possible , and through the information of nume rous friends, through manuscripts and oral communications lo present to my readers , at all events a narrative of authentic facts ; but though gratefully alive to the kindness of all who have aided me in this respect, yet chiefly I feel myself indebted to my enlightened friend Mi*. Habel: An individual whose cultivated mind renders his information of the deepest interest to the historian, antiquary and the lover of nature.

PREFACE.

. X Thus through the aid of every source of information within my power , 1 have sought to render my humble efforts instructive to the uninformed on the subjects my work embraces ; in its analysis of the springs of Nassau to make it useful to the invalid , aud in its progress through this land of beauty and romance to give amuse ment to the lover of the saw and legend of the days gone - by ; and in delineating the customs and manners of the inhabitants of the country , afford the traveller an opportunity of becoming acquainted with the character of the people , as he passes through this Elysium of Germany. I have in the course of my work introduced some poetry illustrative of the scenery and circumstances which I met with on my tour , these generally have been set to music very delightfully by C. Kossmaly , a composer of celebrity , and will hereafter be presented to the public , one or two pieces beautifully composed by T. Severn were published some time back , and should the present undertaking only merit a tithe of the praise bestowed by public reviewers on those simple productions, I shall feel satisfied my time has not been quite uselessly employed in the « Doings » here presented to the reader by. Mentz, 1837. The author. COH.TEIVTS. V'B* Introduction 1

Chapter 1

Ice on the Rhine. Disappointed ambition. A smooth surface Castel. Biberich. Tolerance. Schierstcin. Salutary measure Farm of IVurmburg. Frauenstein. Castle Fraueustein. Saw of the plane-tree. A chinless beauty. A lovely prospect. Georgcn bom. Education. Schlangenbad. The nervous and the fanciful. Analysis of the waters. Pardonable vanity 10

Chapter 2

Wambach. The majesty of mind when opposed to despotism. Schwalhacb. Analysis of the waters. Patent medicines. En glish manners. Beauty. Good feeling. Valley of Aar. Adolphs ecli. Hohenstein. A man of many callings. Female delicacy. The young communicant. Hohenstein castle. The work of devastation. Merited praise. The village church A tell-tale. A learned man. The good pastor. A simple history. Histo rical notices of Hohenstein. The TJhu. A hankering after romance. A phantom. Military service. "Honour thy father and thy mother that etc. » Splendid emptiness. The acquaintance of a day. The parting 50

CHAPTER 5.

Katzenellenbogen castle. A damsel of romance. Genuine hospitality. A animal. How to -take the conceit out of a man.)) Hohenstein. An account in chalk. The history of a saddle. « A llca in the ear. » A Nash - ional builder. A spy. Absenteeism. English comfort. How to dismount a man from his hobby. Ardeck castle. More meanings than one in a word. « The nearer the church the further from God » exemplified. Dietz. A good charger. A German of the past century. A hog. Despotism. Oranienstein. Dietz castle. The penitentiary. A heavy foot -ball. The game of marbles elucidated. Bees in a hive. Prison regulation. Classification of prisoners. A lesson for financiers. A monster. Female convicts. A wonderful production of nature. Disinterested conduct. One of the old school. Dietkirchcn church. A knapsack — pro and CONTENTS. XII Page 150 13b' con. A gem from the emerald isle. A miniature Paradise. Precocity of memory. National feeling * * ""

Chapter 4

An insect delicacy. Mis - application. The German house wife. Female education. An aspiring cobler. Limburg cathedral. A Frenchman's idea of the value of a relic. A self-taught artist, shepherd, and devotee. A lofty promenade. A high dignitary ofthe church. The Franciscan friars. Fachingen. Analysis of the spring. Schaumberg. A moonlight beauty. A correct idea of Russia. A comfortable inn , and natural politeness. Baldwiinstein castle. True devotion. Hebrew emancipation. A sapient counsellor. Royalty at fault. A pastoral scene. Geilnau spring. Many friends at tlie fountain s head. Analysis of the water The man who teaches « the young' idea to shoot. » Gemiithlichkeit. Prepossession. Moun tain farming. Happiness, from what derivable? Holzapfel. A German lady comme il saut. Self love. An honest' German of the past century.

A silver mine. A restorative. Painful pleasing recollections. The peasant and the miner. Laucnburg. A poisoned stream 98 CHAPTER o A view, such as nor pen, nor pencil can describe. The home of Oberon. An exemplification of, — « earned by the sweat of the brow. >■ The recollections of twenty sire years. A village inn of the past century, with its amiable domestic circle. A luxurious repast. High farming. Langenau castle. Church of Arnstein. An excommunicated knight and his lady. A holy relic. Religion more powerful than love. A quartett of, and by warm ones. An argument in favour of matrimony. A chain bridge. Mother and daughter. Nassau Noble and plebeian. The Lahn. Advantages of a college education. Dausnau. The passport. Ems. Procrcativc qualities of water. For what disorders applicable. How used. - The baths of Eins peculiarly beneficial for females. General disorders. A horse bath. Analysis of the springs. Historical notices. Antiquities. Natural curiosities etc

Chapter 6

Different effects of wine. The Lahn. An unobtrusive spring. Demi Paradise. Lahneck. Niederlahnstein. Two-lips. Oberlahnstein. Deposing* monks. Braubach. The clergy. A contrast. The Marxburg. Corporal Trim. Different ideas of beauty. Valour. Torture. How lo keep a man. The milk of human kindness. A bluff old soldier. Use is second nature. The ass in the lion's skin. Stolzenfels. A royal bride. The king's stool. Early recollections. Dinkholder. Nature. The evils of celibacy. St. Goarshausen. Reichenburg. Katz. High cultivation. Lurley. Infernal knowledge. Agriculture. Ober wesel. 'Vandalism. Caub. Gutenfels CONTENTS. XIII 198 256 2CG

Chapter 7

Gutenfels. True liberality. Romance. Pfalzgrafenstein. The Hansc confederation. Caub. A cold acquaintance. Trade and navigation of the Rhine. Passage of the Rhine in 1 •"• I 'i Striking refinement. A sweet valley miscalled sour. Rival ruins. Devotion. Lorch. Too much of nature. Rheinstcin. Asmanshausen. The Rheinlander. The Niederwald. Napoleon's sister. The lovely and the sublime. Monkism. Johannisberg. Eberbach. Solitary confinement. An excellent lunatic asylum. An uneasy couch. Human misery. A contrast. A judicious selection. The departed great. A too tender subject ....

Chapter 8

The steamboat. Royalty. The Jesuits. A holy medal. St. Goarshausen. The Katz. Rafts on the Rhine. Valley of Rocks. Felsenthal. View over the valley of rocks. Paters berg. Village of Reichenberg. A country lodging. A strong proof of musical talent. A sermon. Humanity's last home. An unmannerly cur. Recollections of Euston park. Simplicity and love. A fairy home. The Hasenthal. Mental and cor poreal connection. A majestic vineyard. A family of naturals, but not in love with nature

Chapter 9

An arduous task. Reichenberg. Historical of Reichenberg. Saw of the castle. A true conservative. The farm of Offen thal. A friend of his country. Agriculture. Cultivation of the grape. Profit of farming. The peasant of the Rhine provinces, his character, mode of living, and prejudices. Felsenthal. A walk to Auel. Rheinfels, a good bargain. St. Goar. English. A walk by night, glow-worms. A trio of brave worthies. A council of war , and force example. Gold. Slander of the great

Chapter. 10

Partial punishment. A chilling employment. The stillness of the deep. English. ic Castle -building » amid castle ruins. The highest of all gratifications. Merited praise. Temerity. ■ As drunh as a fiddler. » An exalted lovely view, and a deep and dismal one. Renovation. To sup amid ruins. Too much of a good thing. A sanctified town. Scenery of the Rhine. Martin Luther. Mentz 503

Chapter 11

An author's perplexity. Mentz. Saw of Magog, (son of father Noah), the sounder of Mentz. The Romans. Origin of the .fortifications of the town. Luxury. Drusus enters Ger many; his progress and his death. The Eichelstein. Christian ity. * The Vandals in Mentz. Charles the great. Priestcraft. CONTENTS. XIV Page A bishop murdered. Commercial union. Divine art of printing invented. Militant bishop. Ecclesiastical splendour. Spaniards, and other plagues to which Mentz was subject. Effects of the French revolution. Abridgment of the power of the church. A benefactor. A pearl for Darmstadt. Orders of priesthood. Origin of Monkism. Column saints. Amusements. Price of provisions. Gutenberg. Letter respecting the monument about to be erected to his memory. The cathedral in' Mentz . . 518

Chapter 12

Mentz, its population, amusements, music etc. Freemasonry. Public library, paintings, antiquities, and remarkable clock. Monument erected to Drusus. Learned and scientific institutions. Education. Schools. Public instruction in general. Selection of teachers. Punishment. The good resulting from the confession. Criminal laws. In a multiplicity of council there is safety. Laws directed to the prevention of crime. Police-court. Medical profession. Austrians and Prussians. A little of the pathetic. Reform and loyalty. Public gardens. Pleasant walks. A good pastor, and a grateful man. Roman cemetery at Zahlbach. Roman aqueduct. Grave reflections , and strong proofs of affection towards the dead. Hochheim. The inns etc 560

Chapter 13

A modern ark. The worst of all funds. Self, predominant over humanity. Land and sea -sickness. A one-eyed traveller. The silver spur. Presence d'esprit. An antique. Somniferous effect of romance. Donkey guide. A true village pastor. A literary manoeuvre. A royal regenerator. The exercise of hospitality disappointed. Hard work and little pay. Being in luck. A correct historian. Ambition not the only insecure ladder. A capitalist. Competition. A flinty throne. Comfort for the heathen. A sombre spot. Canine fidelity. Romance, a strong feature in the German character. IV. B. Never in trude upon a man when writing his sermon. The church in danger. Nobles in a cold situation. Sundry fiddles. Falken stein castle. Optical effect of mist. Contending {feelings. Nature, simple fare r . . . . . 398

Chapter 14

A nest of hawks. Saw of the DIord - Rammer. Value of rain. A sorry argument against charity. An outcast. Peace ful retreat. A fruitful vale. Bamberg castle. Saw of Bam berg. Ebernhurg ferry. National feeling. A knapsack no recommendation. Creuznach. Remains of a Roman town or fort. Antiquities. The Kauzenberg. The Ganz. An effect almost magic. Rheingrafenstcin. A wandering melodist. Ebern hurg. Franz von Siekingen. A brave and faithful servant. The Saline works. Hospitality united with beauty Pardonable CONTENTS. xv Page national pride. The drama. Advice to managers. Ebernburg by candle light. Creuznach 428 CHAPTER IS. Historical of Creuznach. Ohc favourable resnlt of the French revolution. Analysis of the waters. Kauzenberg castle. The emigrant. Hebrew philanthropy. A fair rebuke. Aralley of the Nahe.

Bingen. Ancient Germans. Unwelcome guests. The Romans defeated. The Germans resolve to invade Italy. Prudence of the Romans. Jlarius defeats the Germans. Generosity. Total defeat of the Germans. A German prince invades France ; he establishes himself firmly in Gaul ; the natives supplicate Julius Cesar to assist them. Cesar enters the country and defeats Ariovist. Double dealing. Drusus enters Germany. An unsubsidied ally. Drusus erects defences throughout the conquered provinces Superstition , and death of Drusus. A traitor to his country. Debasing effects of luxury. The noble of soul, more illustrious than the noble by birth. Defeat and death of Varus. Germanicus advances into Germany. Discomfiture of the Romans through Herman. Ger manicus necessitated to retreat. Death of tho patriot Herman.

Decline of the Roman power. The Huns. Too much of royalty. How to secure riches safer than in iron chests. How to assist our friends, and carve for ourselves 462

Chapter 16

Bingen. Klopp castle. The Morgenbach. Mause tower. Ehren fels castle. Kuno of Falkenstein. Retaliation. A contrast. Rudesheim, its castles. Ellfeld, the Alia Villa of the Romans. An eminent female. A receipt for the night -mare. Castles in the air. Anticipations answered. A duty better performed by deputy. Wiesbaden. The Mattiacken. Roman baths. Huns in Wiesbaden. Adolphus , Emperor of Germany. Dreadful tlays for Nassau. War of the peasants. Dreadful fire in Wies baden. Capture and sacking of the town. A wilderness. A compound of good and bad. Emigrants. The present noble house of Nassau. The boiling spring. Different baths. Ana lysis of the spring. A medical work on Wiesbaden. "Bathing establishments. Mode of living recommended, the amusements, public buildings, pump, and assembly rooms, casino, libraries, museum, and antiquities. The environs of Wiesbaden, agreeable walks. The Platte. One of the old school. The exile. Biberich. The reigning family 495

Chapter 17

Sonnenberg. Saw of Sonnenberg. Epstein , the Switzer land of Germany. The Rossert. Presence of mind under trying circumstances A lovely valley. The ruins of Konigstein castle. Religious persecution. A wretch. Ruins by moonlight. A well - instructed anatomist. The Altkonig. The Feldberg. CONTENTS. XVI Pa»e Mountain nymphs. The magnificent in nature Rcifenberg. The festival of spring. The patriots monument. Home scenes. Respect, love, and loyalty. The best of princes. National seeling awakened. How to abolish the punishment of death. The springs of Homburg ; Analysis of the same. Gardens and walks round the town. Antiquities. Oberursel. Cronberg. Soden , its baths. Falkenstein castle; saw of the Devil's road. A rough customer to content with. Fischbach . . . 538

Chapter 18

Epstein. Resuscitation. Small fragments of great bones. How to attain elevation in the church. Is situation, or good cheer the best recommendation to an inn? The saw of the Mannslein. A dash of romance. Saw of the Devils rock. A watchful functionary. An early view, of, late a castle. Valley of Lorsbach. Isofhciœ. Hochst, in the time of the Romans. A novel way to retard the advancement of the clergy. A new interpretation of a dumb-one. The Munimenlum Trajani. The Taunus lines of defenee. The old Roman town of iVovus lricus. A stony , or durable parish register. A Mithras temple. The old Roman road. Room, more than enough. "IVeilbach. The sulphur-spring, Analysis of the same. Dieten bergcn. Antiquities. Mentz. Conclusion £579

Appendix

. Dingen. A publishers dread. Klopp castle. Rocks of Bingcn. The Morgcnthal, the surpassing beauty of its scenery, its stream , and falls. A corkscrew. The Elizcn height. The excellent application of the funds of Prussia to useful purposes. Hospitality. Chief inns in Bingen. Rheingrafcnstein. Ebernburg. Bingarth. Monfort castle. Sickingen, Martin Luther and the cause of religion and liberty. Lemberg, the magnificent and the lovely in nature Bockelkeim castle. Dhaun castle. Vandalism. Mining district. Gemiilhlichkeit. British enterprize. The quicksilver mine of Obcrmoschel. Landsberg castle, its history and its noble defenee. Monastery of Disibodus. Staudernheiin. AValdbockenkeim , religious to lerance and persecution. Sponheiin castle, its fine old tower, the scenery around. Creutznach , contemplated new bathing establishment.

Dr. Pricger's work on the waters of Creutz nach. K.autzenberg castle in the thirty years war , and brave conduct of the British volunteers. Noble feeling of the great Gustavus. Planig. Ingclheim. Local attachments, Mentz. 617 General index IXTIIO'OITCTION. « _____ o what? a tour through the Dukedom of Nassau and the countries immediately adjacent to it! — what of information can there possibly be in such a recital? how barren of interest must be a tour through a country not much larger than a few English counties, and what incidents of interest can an author find in such a Lillipu tian re-.lm to engender one soft sentiment , or sufficiently pungent to keep alive curiosity for an hour ? » Gentle reader let me entreat you to peruse the pages of this unassuming work, and reserve till its close the severity of your censure ; for though I introduce you not to those stupendous works of art, the awe -creating pyra mids of Egypt, — ■ though I lead you not through the streets and halls of Pompei or Herculaneum , yet I hope to make you acquainted with the magnificent remnants of Roman greatness which this interesting country presents to your view at every step , and invite you to wander with me o'er , if not through , the streets and halls of a Roman's home.

I pretend not to submit to your view romantic scenery equal in grandeur with the falls of Niagara, rivers magni ficent as the Chesapeake or Ohio — I presume not to compare the mountains of the Taunus with the Alps of Italy, or the Pyrenees of Spain; but what my picture may fail in grandeur — what the Rhine, the Lahn, and Nahe may be deficient in majesty, they exceed in loveli ness , and surpass in historical interest those gigantic streams. •I That my review of the antiquities of this country may please my readers universally is not to be anticipated, — 'tis too dry a subject for many ; — that the historical facts connected with these monuments of by gone greatness may have an attraction for the generality of men is not to be looked for; the absorbing interest of more recent and overwhelming events has deadened the appetite for the histories of Greece and Rome, and in the deeds of Napo leon and Wellington the victories of Drusus and Hermann are forgotten. — Yet difficult as may be the task, it shall be my effort, in leading the reader o'er the fields of their exploits, to awaken an interest even for the land in which they stuggled ; the one for conquest, the other for liberty ; and thereby to introduce my countrymen to a country as redundant in the beauties of nature as it is rich in the mo numents offormer greatness ; — a climate as bless'd for. its salubrity as it is prolific in those gifts of a beneficent providence, which it owes lo the operations of such a climate ; and through a land so rude in health , that scarce ly can he set his foot upon ils soil, but neath his tread some fount of health is trickling forth; while on each lofty rock the mouldering remnant of some castle tower, the seat of feudal lord or robber-knight, frowns from its lofty seat, and tells the saw or legend ofthe times long past; and to make Englishmen familiar with the character , man ners, and habits of a people, who are as renowned in history for their valorous exploits , and are as celebrated for the excellence ofthe former, as they are justly esteemed for the hospitality and simplicity of the latter.

Almost every author in the preface to the works with which he may seek to enlighten the world, generally obli ges the public and his friends with some reason or other why he thus endeavours either to instruct or amuse them. Not unfrequently he assures, that, (perhaps luckily for bis work) ever greedy public, that the bantling was hatched

Introduction

. 3 while the author was recumbent on the bed of sickness ; nnd directly he bas the sensitive , the romantic , and the sentimental reader for his friend. Another avows bis only motive for submitting his pages to the iudulgent conside ration of a feeling public, was for the purpose of relieving the wants of an indigent family ; and sure as fate he en lists the charitably disposed — fortunately for many an author a rather extensive part of the reading community, or Auother with becoming diffidence tells bis friends , his was the offspring of his infant muse, — ■ inevitably the juvenile part of mankind fraternize with, and are his friends ; while the very old, who perhaps may experience, without being aware of it, certain indications of returning infancy, with an excusable weakness have a fellow feeling with the puerile author ; and thus he es capes with only school - boy stripes : but the greater num ber of these petitioners for grace , these applicants for mercy at the hands of reviewers , critics etc. assure their readers that they have alone been induced to submit their works to an indulgent, but impartial and enlightened public, — that public ever so well disposed to regard with lenity the maiden effort of an humble aspirant for literary fame at the bar of public opinion, at the request of some too partial friends.

Reader I claim not exemption from criticism from either of these incentives to write or pub lish my bantling: — a favourite term with young authors. I neither wrote when my faculties were impaired by bodily infirmity, (in proof whereof I walked nearly 1,000 miles this summer to obtain the materials for my work; nor do I claim indulgence of the charitably disposed;) falsely avowing, that actuated by motives of philanthrophy I have published my book for the interest or benefit of others , or at the urgent request of too partial friends; and as to the refuge which others seek from the lash of the critic, under the plea of having written the morceau while the 1* mental capabilities were in the bud: the parish register tells a tale which would invalidate the plea should I be weak enough to advance it : therefore without attempting to shield myself from fair criticism under these, or any other plea whatever, all I request is « fair play , » and that my many faults may be visited with the punishment they deserve, only hoping the lash of censure may not be converted into the knout of persecution.

Walker defines the word pet , thus. — « An animal much fondled; a favourite. » — Now whether in catering for the amusement and information of the public , my « doings and undoings ■ may entitle me to the term favourite, and I become this fondled animal, is yet a matter in the womb of time , but at all events I promise my friends I will do nothing intentionally to undo me in their good opinion. Health, amusement , and information being the object of my journey , and having attained during my excursions an ample measure of each , I recommend to the public , not so much my work itself, as the advantages to be de rived from a pilgrimage to the founts of the first , the sources of the second, and the streams of the last. Could the nervous , the splenetic , and the too well fed part of the community, only be induced to follow my example ; the bracing ofthe nerves, the dispersing of spleen, and the reduction of corpulency, the natural result of too great indulgence , would be the result.

Schiller says the public is « a many headed animal. » Now, if as such it is to be regarded, it behoves an author to provide food adapted to the digestive organs of an animal in which a diversity of tastes may exist. I therefore recommend to the robust, or those who would be so , a visit to the pure clime and romantic scenery of Nassau; -— To the historian and antiquary a tour over the Taunus — to the admirer of romance the saws and legends of the

INTRODUCTION.

. 5 Castles ofthe Rhine, Lahn, and Nahe, and to the lover of his species an acquaintance with a people , possessed of all those amiable qualities which exalt them to so high a rank amongst the nations of Europe ; and thus I shall hope, if not by the literary merit of my work, yet to have provided food for this voracious animal, in the shape of Health , amusement or information. The less an author says of himself, his private affairs, or his motives for obtruding himself as such upon the public , generally the better , for unless through peculiar circumstances rendered either celebrated or notorious, this same public is alike uninterested in his history ; and perfectly indifferent whether happily for himself he occupies an Abbotsford , or is necessitated to spin out his wits at a penny a line in some garret of the metropolis.