Narrative of an expedition into the interior of Africa, by the River Niger, in the steam-vessels Quorra and Alburkah in 1832, 3, 4. By M. L. and R. A. K. Oldfield

Front matter

■ ■ ' NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, BY THE RIVER NIGER, IN THE STEAM-VESSELS QUORRA AND ALBURKAH, IN 1832, 1833, AND 1834. JlY MACGREGOR LAIRD AND R. A. K. OLDFIELD, SURVIVING OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, iPubltehcr tu (©rtftnarn to ftetr iMaJMftp. 1837. LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. CONTENTS. XV Death of another Krooman. — The Steamers separate. — The Alburkah proceeds up the River.— Mount Caractacus. — Mal lam Catab ; his Character. — Straitened for Provisions. — En ter the Tchadda.— Lieutenant Allen taken ill.— The Alburkah runs aground Page 407

CHAPTER VI.

Continue up the Tchadda. — Frenchwood. — Village of Obwah and Obofoh. — Visit from the Chief. — A Defrauder punished. — Eggoohla. — Yimmahah. — Anchor off Yoohai. — Acatah. — The Bassa and Aquoto Country. — Anchor off Am magadah. — The Bay of Islands. — Unfavourable aspect of the Country. — Difficulty of obtaining Provisions. — Messenger sent to the King of Domah. — Visit Obohbe. — Return of the Messenger. — Visit Dagboh. — Return down the Tchadda. — The Alburkah aground. — Anchor off Oruka. — Hopes of ob taining Supplies. . .'.'.- . .427 ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. The Quorra aground below the junction of the Shary and Niger .... Frontispiece. Chart of the River Quorra from the Town of Rabba to the Sea, &c Page I King Obie visiting the Steam Vessels . 98 Town of Yimmahah ...... 186 Accommodation at the Court of Fundah . . . 205 VOL. II.

Preface

. The following pages detail an attempt to open a direct commercial intercourse with the inhabitants of Central Africa. It is well known that the attempt ended in a complete failure to make that intercourse a profitable one, and was attended with a melancholy loss of life. As far as proving the navigability of the Niger, and the ease and facility with which that mighty stream may be used for the purposes of commerce, it was successful in no ordinary degree, considering the novelty of the undertaking, the complicated nature of a steam-vessel, and the excessive mortality of the crews. I also hope that it has in some measure dis pelled the mystery which has so long enveloped vi

PREFACE.

. the interior of that interesting country, and that it has proved that any man with common sense and common ability may ascend and descend the main artery of Africa (provided he escapes the effects of the climate) with perfect safety, in moderate sized vessels, from the sea to Boussa. That my successors in the same field may avoid the errors that were committed, and profit by the experience acquired, is the principal rea son why these Narratives are published. The parties who, I hope, may, and trust wilt be principally interested, are those who look upon the opening of Central Africa to the enter, prise and capital of British merchants as likely to create new and extensive markets for our; manufactured goods, and fresh sources whence to draw our supplies ; and those who, viewing mankind as one great family, consider it their. duty to raise their fellow-creatures from their, present degraded, denationalised, and demoral-, ised state, nearer to Him in whose image they were created.

PREFACE.

. Vll As I consider the happiness of my fellow-creatures ought to be the great end of all enterprise, and as the misery I witnessed made a great im pression on my mind, I shall offer no apology for having, in the concluding chapter, stated freely and unreservedly my opinions and sentiments regarding Africa ! — perhaps their chief value consists in their having been formed upon the spot. If the publication of these Narratives advances the cause of African civilisation in the slightest degree, I shall consider the money, the time, and the life that has been lost, as in some degree compensated. Mr. Oldfield having returned to the coast of Africa, his Journal has not had the advantage of his supervision while passing through the press. MACGREGOR LAIRD. London, 1st June, 1837. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Reasons for the Expedition. — The Company formed. — Mr. Lander's Services engaged. — The Quorra and Alburkah Steam-vessels and the Columbine Brig fitted and pro vided with Goods for the Country — Plan of proceeding. — The Expedition joined by Lieutenant Allen and Mr. Jordan. — Departure from Liverpool.- — Stop at Milford Engineers of Steam-vessels considered — Final Departure from Milford. — Remarks on the Fitting of Steam-vessels for Steaming and Sailing. — Madeira seen. — Anchor at Port Praya. . Page 1

Chapter II

Famine at Cape Verd Islands. — Want of Rain. — Natives of Port Praya. — American Schooner and Cargo. — Leave Port Praya Touch at Isles de Los. — Inhabitants — Depart from the Islands. — Voyage to York — Reception at York — Lieu tenant Allen and Mr. Lander taken ill. — Proceed to Free Town. — Kroomen engaged. — Remarks on Kroomen and Fish men. — Their Characters compared with that of the Negro. CONTENTS. X —Anchor off Monrovia. — Strictures on the Settlement- Visit Simon River.- Cape Palmas.— The Dutch Governor of Axim. — Arrive at Cape Coast. — Remarks on that Settlement Page 20

Chapter III

Departure from Cape Coast. — Captain Harries and an Engineer taken ill. — Description of a Tornado. — Anchor off the Nun. — Death of Captain Harries and the Second En gineer. — Tribute to the Memory of the former. — The Vessels enter the River.. — Dangers of the Bar. — Preparations for proceeding up the River. — Anchor off King Boy's Bar racoon. — Effects of Climate. — Remarks on the Natives. — Continue up the River. — Anchor off Inghirami. — News of Hostilities. — Coolness of a Native Pilot. — A Village burnt. — The Warree Branch. — Anchor off Eggabo. — Boy and his Wives. — Arrival at Eboe. . . . . .55

Chapter IV

Visit to King Obie. — The Palaver. — The Visit returned. — A Female of Eboe. — Description of Obie — The Town of Eboe described — Its Produce. — The Delta of the Niger — Its In habitants and their Occupations. — Oil-making and Slave-hunting compared. ... .... 94

Chapter V

Departure from Eboe. — The Quorra aground. — Mr. Jordan taken ill — The Quorra's Crew attacked with Fever. Pro ceed to Damuggoo. — Awful Mortality on board the Quorra. — Arrive at Attah — Reflections on the Mortality. — Situa tion of Attah — Its advantages — Natives' Method of killing the Alligator — Depart from Attah. — Messenger from the CONTENTS. XI King. — Difficulties of the Navigation. — Proceed to Bocqua. — The Kong Mountains. — River Scenery The Quorra aground. Page 111

Chapter VI

Sickness in the Alburkah. — Disappointment in the Navigation. — More Sickness in the Quorra. — Prepare for the Rainy Season Another Messenger from Attah. — Attah Canoes. — Attempt of Mr. Lander to proceed to Boussa. — A Thief caught. — Visit to Addakudda. — Description of the River above Eboe. — Superior Character of the Natives. —Manufactures and Trade. . . . . . .141

Chapter VII

Amusement on board. — Reflections on the State ofthe Inhabitants. — Native Canoes. — Mr. Lander unsuccessful. — Change in the Season. — Further Sickness. — Death of Dr, Briggs. — Tribute to his Memory. — Departure for Fundah, the Quorra left aground. — Arrival at Yimmahah. — Reports of the King of Fundah Friendly Mallam. — Mode of thatching Huts. — The Native Barber. . . .171

Chapter VIII

Messengers from the King of Fundah. — Embark in a Canoe for that City.— Difficulties of the Passage. — Arrive at Potingah, and pass on to Fundah. — Native Curiosity.— Visit from the King. — The Visit returned. — Inconvenient Lodgings.— The Court of Fundah and its Inmates. — Sarsfield sent to Yimmahah. — The Barber Physician and his Wife.— An Amateur Beau. CONTENTS.

Chapter IX

Approach of the Rainy Season. — Return of Sarsfield. — Pretext for Departure. — Credulity and Terror of the King.— Preparations for leaving Fundah.— Description of the City — Its Population, &c. — Character ofthe King. — Amuse ments of Fundah— Its Manufactures.— The River Shary— Opinion respecting its Source. . . . Page 214

Chapter X

Departure from Fundah — Arrive at Yimmahah. — Return on board the Quorra. — Determination to return down the Ri ver to Fernando Po. — Description of Adassah and its King. — Sarsfield and Lieutenant Allen proceed to Fundah. — Ravages of the Felatahs — Mortality among our Kroomen. — Hector's Narrative of his Visit to Fundah. — Insubordination among the Kroomen. — Anchor off Bocqua. — Joined by Mr. Old field from the Columbine. — Letters from Europe. — Ac count of Mortality in the Columbine. . . . 235

Chapter XI

Arrive at Attah. — Another Krooman dies. — Departure of the Alburkah, with Mr. Oldfield and Mr. Lander, for Boussa. — Anchor off Eboe. — Interview with the King concerning the Trade. — Punishment of two Native Delinquents. — Arrive at the Mouth of the River, and proceed to Fernando Po De termine on returning to Liverpool.— Trip to Calebar Duke Ephraim. — Government House at Clarence. — The Spanish Slaver. — A Visit to Bimbia and Cameroons. — The Bimbia Pilot.— Peter the Slave. — A Boat Race. — Technical Terms and Native Taste. — Return to Fernando Po. . 2G6 CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XII

Proceed to Calebar. — The French Captain Barbarous Practices on the Death of a Chief. — Native Wrestlers. — Re turn to Fernando Po. — A Slaver captured. — Fernando Po. — Its advantageous Situation and Climate considered — Natives and their Habits. — Voyage to Liverpool. — -Arrival. Page 292 MR. OLDFIELD'S JOURNAL.

Chapter I

Commencement of Sickness in the Vessels of the Expedi tion. — Symptoms of the Fever. — The Boatswain and Com mander of the Quorra die. — Remain in the Columbine. — Departure ofthe Steamers, up the River.— The Brig Susan. — The Bar of the Nun. — Landers' Journals. — Loss ofthe Susan. — Town of Cassa — Character of the Natives. — News of the Steamers Set out to Visit Brass Town. — King Boy's Canoe and its contents. — Fish Town. — Superstitions and Ce remonies. — The King's Daughters. — Preparations for Arrival at Brass. — Landing. — The King's Residence. — Observations on Brass Town. — Funeral Ceremony. — Despotism of the African Chiefs. — Return on board the Columline. . 307

Chapter II

Attacked with Fever. — Further Mortality in the Colum bine. — Resort ofthe Slavers. — Palm-oil Trade, and Advice to Traders. — Death of Captain Mitchell. — Arrival of an Ame rican Expedition. — Unfortunate Death ofthe Supercargo, and Mortality on board the Vessels. — Rescue of a Native CONTENTS. Female from Death.— A Spanish Slaver.— Generosity of her Captain.— His Majesty's Ship Curlew.— Arrival of a Canoe with Mr. Lander and Captain Hill. — Intelligence of the Steamers. — Mr. Lander very ill. —Preparations for leaving the Columbine to join the Vessels. . . Page 337

Chapter III

Departure with Mr. Lander for the Interior. — Sunday Island.— Limits of the Tide.— Nature of the River. — The Town ofEeckow. — A Benin Branch. — Pass several Towns. — Ge neral Description of the River. — Land at a Village. — Recep tion by the Chief. — Change in the Face ofthe Country. — Hip popotami. — Unpleasant Intruders. — The Bonny and principal Benin Branch. — Little Eboe. — River Scenery. — Curiosity of the Natives. — Description of the River. — Difficulty of stemming the Current in Canoes. ..... 357

Chapter IV

Arrive at Eboe. — Visit King Obie with Presents. — Salutation ofthe Natives. — Interview with Obie. — Reception ofthe Visiters. — Obie visits Mr. Lander in his Canoe. — His rapa cious Demands. — Obtain Assistance. — Character of the Eboes. — Departure. — Kirree Pirates.— Adamey. — Reports of the Felatahs. — Intelligence of Mr. Laird. — Arrive off At tah. — Messenger from the King. — The Kong Mountains seen. — Bocqua. — Lander's Bird Rock. — Meeting with the Steamers. 381

Chapter V

Rejoin the Alburkah.— Visit Mr. Laird.— His deplorable Condition. — Return of the Steamers to Attah. — Visit to the King of Attah.— Description of his Person and Palace. J^Mitmieto Sirfi!uft>ifa. iy Jili&tfMy, 1837. NARRATIVE.

Chapter I

Reasons for the Expedition. — The Company formed. — Mr. Lander's Services engaged. — The Quorra and Alburkah Steam-vessels and the Columbine Brig fitted and provided with Goods for the Country. — Plan of Proceeding. — The Expedition joined by Lieutenant Allen and Mr. Jordan. — Departure from Liverpool. — Stop at Milford. — Engineers of Steam-vessels considered. — Final Departure from Milford. — Remarks on the Fitting of Steam-vessels for Steaming and Sailing. — Madeira seen. — Anchor at Port Praya. The attention of British merchants has long been turned to Central Africa as an untrodden, and therefore profitable field for commer cial enterprise. The information obtained di rectly from English travellers, and indirectly from captured slaves, describing that country as one on which Nature had profusely be stowed her choicest treasures, with the fact L- VOL. I. B REASONS FOR that that immense territory, comprising one eighth part of the surface of the globe, had been for ages excluded from all direct communication with the civilised world, seemed to hold out the most flattering prospects of suc cess to those fortunate individuals who should be the first to break into its secluded vales.

The increase in the consumption of palm-oil in this country, the gradual decline in the sup ply of ivory, added to the inconvenience arising from the caprice and extortion of the petty chiefs at the mouths of the principal rivers of the African coast, stimulated the merchant to the discovery of new and unrestricted markets ; while the knowledge that with the imperfect means of transit possessed by the natives, they already exported produce to the value of one mil lion sterling annually to this country, presented to his mind the ready inference that a more direct intercourse between the producer and the consumer would tend to the benefit of both. It will excite no surprise, then, that the splen did discovery of Lander was hailed with, if pos sible, more enthusiasm by mercantile than by scientific men.

The long-sought-for highway into Central Africa was at length found, as open THE EXPEDITION. 3 by the Niger as that by the Rhine, the Danube, the Mississippi, or the Oronooko, is into their respective countries. To the merchant it offer ed a boundless field for enterprise ; to the manu facturer, an extensive market for his goods ; and to the energy and ardour of youth, it pre sented the irresistible charms of novelty, danger, and adventure. It must not, however, be supposed that these were the sole motives that actuated the pro moters of that expedition, the proceedings of which are related in the following pages : other and nobler objects were connected with them. By introducing legitimate commerce with all its attendant blessings into the centre of the country, they knew that they were striking a mortal blow to that debasing and demoralising traffic which has for centuries cursed that un happy land, and rendered some of the loveliest tracts on the face of the globe the habitation of wild beasts and noxious reptiles, or of man in a condition more disgusting and degraded than either.

Under Providence, they aspired to become the means of rescuing millions of their fellow-men from the miseries of a religion cha racterised by violence and blood, by imparting B RICHARD LANDER. to them the truths of Christianity,— that mild and beneficent faith, which proclaims " peace on earth, and good-will towards man." Urged by such considerations, the author, in conjunction with several other gentlemen of Li verpool, determined to form a company, whose first objects should be to open a direct commu nication with the interior of Africa ; and, if this were successful, to establish a permanent set tlement at the junction of the Tchadda and Niger, for the purpose of collecting the various products of the country. In furtherance of these views, a correspondence was opened with Mr. Richard Lander, who had already signified to one of the parties concerned his readiness to embark in such an enterprise.

An answer was received from him, containing the strongest possible confirmation, in his opinion, of their most sanguine expectations. From his own per sonal observation, Mr. Lander assured the com pany that ivory, indigo, and other valuable produce might be collected in any quantity at a trifling expense. The plan first proposed was to send out a large vessel to the Nun river, fitted for the palm-oil trade, with a small steam-vessel to OUR LARGER BOAT — THE QUORRA. trade up the river. But after a personal com munication with Mr. Lander, it was deemed ad visable to depend solely on the trade in the interior for the returns; to fit out two steam vessels of light draught of water, to carry it on in the upper part of the river, while the sailing vessel waited at the mouth to receive their cargoes.

As no steam-vessels, with the exception of a small iron one, were to be met with suitable for the purpose, it was determined to build a larger ofthe following dimensions : — length 112, beam 16, depth 8 feet, with a poop as high as the waist, to give the requisite accommodation for the officers. The keel of this vessel was laid on the 28th March, and by considerable exer tions she was launched on the 29th May. Her engine was a single one of forty-horse power, manufactured by Messrs. Fawcett and Preston of Liverpool, who had a considerable share in the enterprise ; and it is but justice to these gentlemen to say, that the machinery of the engine, which commonly produces so much un easiness to commanders of steam-vessels, was never for a moment throughout the voyage a subject of concern to any one : it seemed to OUR SMALLER BOAT — THE ALBURKAH. work as it were by instinct, and on leaving Fernando Po, although I had lost my engineers upwards of nine months before, it was still in perfect order.

The smaller boat formed in herself the test of an experiment of the most interesting kind. With the exception of her decks, she was con structed entirely of wrought iron ; her bottom was one fourth of an inch in thickness, and her sides from three sixteenths to one eighth. She was built at a considerable distance from the water, and was conveyed on a truck through the streets of Liverpool to the river. Her di mensions were, length 70, beam 13, depth 6\ feet, with an engine of sixteen-horse power. That such a vessel would be invaluable in river navigation we were quite aware ; but whe ther she could withstand the wear and tear of a sea voyage of four thousand miles, was at best problematical. The result has added another to many proofs that a theory fairly grounded on scientific principles may safely be brought into practice even against the ad vice and opinions of those who are generally supposed to be the most able to give the one THE ALBURKAH. 7 or to form the other.

Never were men more ridiculed than the gentlemen of the company when fitting out this vessel for her voyage to Africa. It was gravely asserted that the work ing in a sea-way would shake the rivets out of the iron of which she was composed : the heat of a tropical sun would bake alive her unhappy crew as if they were in an oven ; and the first tornado she might encounter would hurl its lightnings upon a conductor evidently sent forth to brave its power. But what was the actual result ? In spite of these wise opinions, her rivets are yet firm in their places, as the fact of her not having made a cupful of water sufficiently proves. Being in herself a universal conductor, she was always at the same temperature as the water in which she floated ; and, for the same reason, though the lightning might play round her sides, it never could get on board of her.

The large boat was named the Quorra, the title given by the natives to a part of the river — or rather, I believe, a general term applied by them to all running waters. The smaller boat was called the Alburkah, a Houssa word AMOUNT OF CREWS. The crew of the Quorra, consisted of twenty-six signifying " blessing." including the officers, men. 1 Captain. 2 Mates. 1 Purser. 2 Engineers. 2 Firemen. 2 Stewards. 1 Cook. 1 Medical gentleman 1 Boatswain. 10 Seamen. 2 Apprentices. 1 Carpenter, Total 26 The crew of the Alburkah was formed of 1 Captain. 1 Mate. 2 Firemen. 1 Steward. 1 Cook. 1 Surgeon. 1 Engineer. 6 Seamen. Total 14, The Quorra was armed with one twenty-four pound swivel gun forward, one eighteen-pound carronade, also mounted on a swivel, on the poop, and eight four-pound carriage guns on the main deck, with a proper proportion of small arms, not only for the crew, but also for the Kroomen, who, it was intended, should be shipped on the coast.

The Alburkah had one nine-pound swivel gun forward, and six one-pound swivels on her sides. Both vessels had their sides armed with chevaux-de-frise, for the double purpose of re- THE COLUMBINE. 9 sisting boarders, and preventing the natives from crowding the decks ; a precaution which I strongly recommend to any vessels fitting out for a similar voyage. The investments of goods were selected by Mr. Lander, who, it was presumed, from his acquaintance with the interior of Africa, was the most proper person for that purpose. No ex pense was spared in providing not only neces saries, but luxuri.es, for the officers and crew ; and it was generally allowed, that better-found vessels had never left the port of Liverpool. The sailing vessel purchased by the company, named the Columbine, was a remarkably fine brig, of about two hundred tons, only four years old, and well provided with stores.

She was appointed to carry out the goods, and was to remain at the mouth of the river to receive any cargo which the steam-vessels might bring down from the interior. She was to accompany the steam-vessels on the voyage out, as, having been built expressly for river navigation, it was not to be expected that they would prove good sea-boats. In consequence of the cholera being very prevalent in Liverpool, our orders directed us MESSRS. ALLEN AND JORDAN. to proceed to Milford, which place at that time was still uninfected : we were to remain there till we had ascertained that we were perfectly free from the disease, and then to proceed in company to the river Nun, calling at Cape Coast Castle for Kroomen and interpreters. In case of parting company, the harbour of Port Praya in the island of St. Jago was the appointed rendezvous.

Before leaving Liverpool we were joined by Lieutenant William Allen, R.N. a gentleman for whom the admiralty had requested a passage in one of the vessels, for the purpose of making a survey of the river. The company had very liberally granted this request, although they had not received the slightest assistance or encou ragement from any department of the government. The admiralty remained pledged on the occasion that no information should be given to the public by this officer without the express permission of the company. About the same time we were also joined by Mr. Jordan, a young man of amiable manners and considerable acquirements, whom it was intended to establish in the interior of the country, provided his health could withstand the effects of the climate ; but PREPARATIONS AT LIVERPOOL. 11 owing to there not being sufficient room in the Quorra's cabin, he made the voyage out in the Columbine.

Mr. Lander passed several weeks in Liverpool while the vessels were preparing, but left them a short time before we sailed, agreeing to join the expedition, of which he was to take the command, at Milford. In such a purely commercial place as Liver pool, any enterprise that may lead to an ex tension of its commerce is viewed with far more interest than persons unconnected with business can well imagine. The speculator regrets that he has no share in the anticipated success, — the cool and wary merchant calculates the time that may elapse before he can avail himself of any discoveries that may be made, — the young and enthusiastic envy the share of those of their own age who, released from the thraldom of the counting-house, are about to enter upon a new field of enterprise and honourable danger, — while the old and experienced, if they doubt its success, cannot bring themselves to damp by gloomy forebodings the buoyant and adventurous spirit of those engaged in it.

In addition then to that of private friends and connexions, we had also the sympathy and good-will of the public ; DEPARTURE FROM LIVERPOOL. and I will not attempt to conceal that in my own case, at least, the consciousness of this alleviat ed in some degree the regret I felt on leaving those who were nearly and dearly allied to me. We departed, from Liverpool on Wednesday the 19th July 1832, in company with the Al burkah and Columbine, the latter being in tow of a steam-vessel belonging to the City of Dublin Company. A fresh breeze had set in from N.N.W. and I was much pleased to find that my ex pectations respecting the liveliness of the Quorra and Alburkah, and particularly the latter, were more than realised, neither of them shipping any water though steaming end on to a short tidal sea.

Before the pilot left us, Captain Harries mustered all hands on deck ; and I was particu larly struck by their appearance of perfect so briety. To She reader this may appear nothing more than regular, but it is a most uncommon thing in a merchant ship leaving port. The crew were all picked men from twenty-five to thirty-five years of age ; and little did I think, as I beheld their athletic and powerful frames, that in a few months the only survivors of us all would be myself and three others. After a very good passage of thirty-six hours ENGINEERS OF STEAM-VESSELS. 13 we arrived at Milford. A few hours later, the Alburkah came into the harbour ; and her com mander Captain Hill fully corroborated by his testimony my good opinion of his vessel. The Columbine not being able to get round Holy Head the day she sailed, was forty-eight hours longer on the passage.

During our stay at Milford, where we were detained until the 29th, waiting the arrival of Mr. Lander, we discharged one of the engineers, and entered another from one of the post-office packets. The great demand for this description of men, and the high rate of wages they can get on shore, render it very difficult for vessels engaged on foreign service to obtain them: we were obliged to pay 16/. per month for men who on shore would not have earned more than 30s. per week. This is a great drawback on the introduction of steam-vessels generally abroad ; and until the pro fession of mechanical engineering is considered a fit pursuit for respectable young men, it must remain so. On board a steam-vessel every officer should be perfectly independent of the engineer ; each should be capable of working the engines, and of judging whether the different parts of the machinery are kept in proper order or not.

The HOSPITALITY AT MILFORD. importance of having some public means of in struction in this branch of practical science must be manifest to every one. The general adoption of steam power in the foreign packet service, and the large capital invested in private steam-vessels, hold out sufficient inducement to individuals who make the profession their study; and it only re quires government to make it an honourable pur suit, by establishing a class of master engineers, to draw hundreds of young gentlemen into it who are now frittering away their time waiting for commissions in the army or navy. Surely there can be no great difference between adjusting a screw or packing a piston, and examining a splice or scrutinising a knapsack. Our stay at Milford was rendered agreeable by the hospitality and kindness of Mr. Leach and Captain Chappell.

The latter gentleman, as agent for his Majesty's post-office packets, granted us the use of their hulk, which enabled Captain Harries to get our decks cleared and stowed for sea, and to fill up with coals to the very moment of our departure. To both these gentlemen my grateful thanks are due for their kind attentions, which were the more unexpected as we were personally unknown to them. FINAL DEPARTURE. On the 25th, the wind being favourable and there being no appearance of Mr. Lander, nor any letters from him, we despatched the Colum bine and Alburkah, towing them both out of the harbour. Their orders directed them to make the best of their way to Port Praya, and there to wait the arrival of the Quorra. On the evening of the 29th we were agreeably surprised by the appearance of Mr. Lander, and in less than an hour afterwards were under weigh with steam and sails, a light breeze having set in from the N.E. We continued under steam till we lost soundings ; we then disconnected the engine, and with the freshening breeze stood across the bay.