Spain and the seat of war in Spain

Front matter

SPAIN, AKD THE SEAT OF WAR IN SPAIN. Jity JUU^&IluIF* to th aJkag WZlEt'W OT IB E ______ M ,£__. ® _, R.J Hamerton at}... SPAIN; AND THE SEAT OF WAR IN SPAIN BY HERBERT BYNG HALL. Esq. LATE CAPTAIN OF THE SEVENTH ROYAL BRITISH FUSILEERS AMD KNIGHT OF THE ORDER OF ST. FERDINAND " Aux armes! camarades. Que nul ne manque a 1'appel, que nul ne s'endorme aupres d'un broc de vin ou d'un tison qui s'eteint; et ne laisse engourdir son sang, tandis que celui de ses freres coulera chaud sur ses rochers !" Don Carlos LONDON: HENRY COL BURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1837. Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great gueen Street, Lincoln's- Inn Fields. TO THE RIGHT HON. LORD FREDERICK FITZCLARENCE, G.C. H., &c. &c. &c. ♦ — My Lord, Without having asked your permission, 1 have taken the liberty of dedicating to your Lordship the following sketch of the operations of the combined forces of the Queen of Spain, at this moment engaged in the civil war raging in that unhappy country.

As it is formed merely from hurried notes, collected during the fatigues of a campaign carried on under more than com mon difficulties, I trust the apology for it's many errors may be favourably received by your Lordship. a3 VI DEDICATION. A feeling of deep gratitude for many kind nesses on your part towards me, during a period of six years, in which I have had the honour and pleasure of serving under your command, — added to the conviction, that any military know ledge I might have been enabled to gain, originated from your excellent discipline, — has been the means of enabling me cheerfully to do my duty whilst on the personal Staff of the Commander-in-chief of the Cantabrian Coast. I have the honour to be, My Lord, With much sincerity, Your faithful servant, H. BYNG HALL.

Preface

. In submitting this little work to public perusal, I am anxious that it should be judged by the nature of its pretensions; — it purports only to shew the real state of the combined forces of the Queen of Spain, and to furnish such anecdotes of the war as relate to scenes that have been actually witnessed by the Author. As a means of enforcing accuracy of observa tion, it has long been my habit to note down in writing the most interesting objects which, from time to time, have occurred in the course of the journies I have undertaken, either on duty or in the pursuit of pleasure. The memoranda which I made during a short campaign in the North of Spain, I reduced into the form of a manu script journal, which it was my .intention only to have shewn my immediate friends. When, how-

PREFACE.

. ever, I returned from Spain, I received many applications for an account of the military proceedings in that country, and I foresaw the impossibility of satisfying all my acquaintance. From the courtesy of the Editor of the " United Service Journal,1'' I was enabled to publish my journal in the shape of letters in that valuable periodical ; still this did not satisfy the nonreaders of that publication. In my embarrassment, I recollected to have heard of an honest Quaker who resided in the back settlements of America, and who, finding himself almost eaten up by transient visitors, set up a sign over his door. After which, although he did not make any profit, he enjoyed the comfort of a quiet house. Upon this hint, I have committed my journal to the press; if any thing more than what accrued to the American shall accrue to me, " lucro apponam." Page 1 II CONTENTS.

Chapter I

State of Spain— Effects of Civil War — Abolition of the Salique Law — Pretensions of Don Carlos — The Basque Provinces — Description of Don Carlos — Seat of the Civil War— Guerilla Troops — Nature of the Country — The Tree of Guernica — Captain Henningsen — Origin of the War

Chapter II

Embark for North Spain — Arrival at Santander — Inhospitable Reception — St. Sebastian — State of the Legion — A Reconnoissance — Attack upon Hernani — First Action with the Carlists— The Spanish Troops — Return to St. Sebastian — Jaureguy — Description of his Person — His Sincerity of Character...

Chapter III

The British Troops — Relief of Bilbao — Deficiency of Quarters — Situation of Bilbao — Seat of the Biscayan Parliament — Defence of the Town — The Conde de Mirasole — Espartero — His Talents as a General — Espeleta — An Opinion of Napoleon— Description of the X CONTENTS. Page Spanish Soldier — The Spanish Army— Its Military Character — March from Bilbao — Unexpected Attack of the Carlists— Position of the Christinos— English Regiments ordered to retire — A Scene of Slaughter — Espartero wounded — Loss of the Queen's Forces — Carlists commanded by Eguia 28

Chapter IV

A Mournful Spectacle— Mountain Court of Don Carlos — Strength of the Legion — Colonel Arbuthnot — Recovery of Espartero — The Army of the North — General Cordova — His Character and Conduct — His Want of Foresight — Conduct towards General Evans — Unfit to lead the Christino Army — Peculiar Style of Dress 50

Chapter V

Arrival at Miranda — Miranda del Ebro — La Puebla — The Cure Andrea — Army enters Vittoria — The Cathedral — Stay at Vittoria — March to Durango — Affair of Arlaban 62

Chapter VI

March to Salvatierra — Aspect of the Country — The Enemy in Sight — The Carbineros — A Ludicrous Anecdote — Pass the Zadora — Murder of Colonel Elio — Salvatierra— Retreat of the Christinos — Decision of Cordova — Affair at Salvatierra — Horrors of Civil War — Real Motives of the People 71

Chapter VII

Troops of Don Carlos— Uniform of the Carlist Cavalry March from Salvatierra— Village of Matouca— Loss on both sides— Colonel O'Donnel 84, CONTENTS. XI Page 99 128

Chapter VIII

Arrival at Villareal— Disappointment of Cordova — Government Interference — Retreat of the English Division — Quarters at Ochandiano — Vittoria — Non-arrival of the Auxiliaries — Arrival of the Legion at Villacajo 90

Chapter IX

Strength of the Carlists — Carlist Forces — Line of Operations — Amount of British Force — Town of Briviesca — Convent of Onaa— Beauty of the Country — A Party of Lancers — Arrival at Onaa — March from thence ...

Chapter X

Meeting of Generals Cordova and Evans — Cordova proceeds to Havo— Financial Difficulties — Arrival at San Ascencion — Village of Ceneciro — Attack on Ceneciro — Relief of Ceneciro — Town of Logrono — Entry into Navarre — Recollections of Lerin — Situation of Mendigorria — Account of the Action — Attack of Espartero — Retreat of the Christinos — Narrow Escape of Don Carlos — Honours and Distinctions common in Spain 110

Chapter XI

State of the War — The Action of Mendigorria— Difference in the Movements of Carlists and Christinos — Arrival at Puenta la Reyna— Roads broken up— Capture of Estella— A Dangerous Position— Flight of the Carlists — Entry into Estella — Description of the City — Palace occupied by Don Carlos— Good Advice CONTENTS. Page

Chapter XII

Situation of Estella— Practice of the Carlists— Defence impracticable— Feelings of the Army — Nature of the Spanish Horses— March from Estella— Attack of the Carlists — Arrival at Allio — Army drawn up for Battle — Strength of Don Carlos's Army — Death of La Reyna — Upsetting of Artillery — Arrival at Lerin — Comforts of a Spanish Dwelling < Ill

Chapter XIII

Progress of Freedom — State of the Country — March to Logrono— Spanish Posting — Arrival at Briviesca — Evans and Cordova — Spanish Contractors — News from Navarre — Gorge of Pancorba — Upsetting of a Carriage — Delay on the High Road — Spanish Hospitality — A Morning Repast — Riocca Wine— Change of Operations 155

Chapter XIV

Cordova returns to Navarre — General Order to the Army — Noble Sentiments — How acted upon — Total Want of Faith — Slaughter of the War — Journey to Haro — Return to the Legion — Arrival at La Puebla — Miserable Night — Capture of El Rio de St. Vicente — Meeting with General Evans — Entry into Vittoria — Review of the Legion — Return to Miranda — Journey to Burgos — Arrival at Briviesca — The Legion Artillery — Arrival at Burgos 170

Chapter XV

Inspection of Cavalry Barracks — March of the Auxiliary Lancers — Visit to the Cathedral — Dinner at Marquis CONTENTS. XIII Page 202 di Castro's — Sad Disaster — Arrival of the Ministers — Return to Vittoria — Sickness amongst the Troops not caused by Drink — Expected Movements — Cordova's Arrival from Navarre — Arrival of the Algerine Legion — Its Efficiency 189

Chapter XVI

Crowded State of Vittoria — Temporary Fortifications — Matauco and Elorriaga — Execution of Ten Chapelgoris — March to Arlaban — Order on the Occasion — Orders to the British Legion — Enemy's Position — Christino Forces — Evans's First Position — Affair of Mendyghar — Firing heard towards Azua— Quarters at Arbulo — The Cure's House — Arrival at Azua — Position of Azua — Entrance of Marietta — Continuance in Bivouack — Want of Supplies — Visit to Cordova's Head-quarters — Affair of Arlaban — Cordova's Return to Vittoria ...

Chapter XVII

Return to Zuaso di Gamboa — Dreadful State of the ■ Weather — Arrival of a Deserter — Pleasing Effects therefrom — A Retrograde Movement— Crossing of the Zadora — Arrival of General Oraa — Breaking up of the Bivouack — Ridiculous Anecdote— Return to Vittoria End of the Grand Combined Movement — Honours and Distinctions 221

Chapter XVIII

Return to Vittoria — Reconnoissance to Salvatierra — Cordova returns to Navarre — Failure of the Borunda Operation — State of Deprivation — Lamentable Consequences ••■• 237 b G0NTENTS. Page 243

Chapter XIX

Scarcity of Provisions — Dreadful Mortality — The Legion march to Trevino — Occupation of Pena-Cerada — Useless Movement — Anecodote of an Irish Soldier — Carlists attack Valmeseda — Taking of Valmeseda, as also Plentia — Situation of Valmeseda — Its Capabilities of Defence— Carlists evacuate Valmeseda — Return of Legion to Armenion — Inhabitants of Vittoria — Leaving Vittoria — Journey to Ona — Hotel at Ona — Description of an Apartment — A Spanish Supper — Journey to Soncillo — Arrival at Soncillo — Lodging at the Cure's — Journey over the Sierra de St. Vicente — Change of Appearance in the Country and People — Arrival at Santander

Chapter XX

State of the Dep&t— Return to England — Landing at Falmouth — Agreeable Change— Statement of Gomez — Some Explanations relative to the War — Produce of the Country — Madrid not the object of Soldiery — Feelings of the Navarrese — Occupation of the Country — Original Force of the Legion — How officered — Hurried Movements — Demoralization of the Men — Importance of St. Sebastian — Guerilla Fighting — Anecdotes of superior Christino and Carlist Officers — General Saarsfield — General Gomez — March through Spain — General Rodil — Description of Rodil — Massacre of Calla6 — Foresight of Gomez — Want of it in the Christinos — Removal of Rodil — General Allaix — The Affair of Aciete — Brigadier Narvaez — Aciete Maja — Commencement of the Action — Position of the Enemy — Conduct of Narvaez— Affair between CONTENTS.

XV Page Gomez and Narvaez — Gomez retires — The Christinos halt — Brigadier Leon — General Guerrea — Count Lu chana — Relief of Bilbao — Determined Attack of the Carlists — Failure of Espartero — Espartero inactive — Relief of Bilbao— Kindness of General Evans — Cha racter of his Army — Loss of British Officers — Present Condition of Spain 286 Appendix SPAIN, AND THE SEAT OF WAR IN SPAIN.

Chapter I

Ye who would more of Spain and Spaniards know, Go, read whate'er is writ of bloodiest strife : Whate'er keen vengeance urged on foreign foe Can act, is acting there against man's life : From flashing scimitar to secret knife, War mouldeth there each weapon to his need — So may he guard the sister and the wife, So may he make each curst oppressor bleed, So may such foes deserve the most remorseless deed. Spain, in her day of fame, was the supreme country of the warrior and the poet, the minstrel, the navigator, and the bold adventurer on the seas and shores of the new world. Spain, as a country, is without doubt one of the finest por tions of the world, whether we regard its po- B STATE OF SPAIN. sition as relating to the Mediterranean sea, offering a highway to the ends of the world, with the chain of the Pyrenees forming a bar rier and protection against foreign invasion bv land; or for the salubrity of its southern climate, the everlasting fertility of its soil, and abundant mineral resources, peopled still bv a hardy, warlike, but revengeful and haughty race.

They possess, however, at the present hour, but few of those enterprising and chivalrous notions of the sixteenth century, or as sons of the northern conquerors of the Roman empire, little of the glowing temperament, and none of the romance of the Saracen conqueror of their ancestors. The national heart beats with few of the same capacities at the present moment, there fore is this splendid nation wasting day by day in the agonies of a brutal, ruinous, and hateful civil war. Hundreds, nay thousands, are perish ing by each others' hands — the humble abode of the labourer is no longer one of peace and honest comfort — no longer are heard the sounds of the guitar and the castenets, the Alemeda is no longer the scene of the merry dance and the social walk ; the watchful sentry and the well-armed guard, are now the only occupants of spots formed alone for the brilliant and the gay.

EFFECTS OF CIVIL WAR. 3 Yet could we erase from our minds the feelings of disgust, indignation, and compassion, that naturally arise, when following the course of events now acting on the blood-stained theatre of this self-annihilated and unhappy country — could we forget the facts and abundant horrors of civil war, — the homes that are become child less, the rich valleys that are laid waste, the total wreck of all honest feelings, the utter and fearful neglect of religious practice, and the con sequent want of faith in all dealings — had we not ourselves visited, and in a manner been an actor in some of those recent fields of bloodshed and despair, — had we not actually witnessed the father arrayed against the son in mortal 6trife, — we might endeavour to look with more than common eagerness on those scenes, now so ripe in actual contention in that part of the Penin sula, which will for ever teem with numerous exciting reminiscences to the soldier, whose glory has there been won, as also by the aspirer for future feats of arms in his country's cause.

Could we, I may add, at once blot out from our minds that the war in Spain is against Spain's sons by her own children, and look upon the awful and wretched strife as of foreign foes, then would the world at large more eagerly follow the various operations of the combined b ABOLITION OF THE SALIO.ITE LAW. forces, as well as the striking political events at Madrid. In the mean time, " The war-cry sounds afar, From Biscay's mountain-top to brave Navarre," and the horrors and disasters of the civil contest still rage with all their fury and dire misery to the millions actually connected with it. I am therefore humbly led, after due consideration as to its origin and effects, added to some personal knowledge, both of the country and most of the principal actors and commanders on this theatre of strife, to offer my opinions ; putting, however, out of the question any at tempt to follow those movements of which I have not been an eye-witness, and earnestly en deavouring not to allow any political feeling, or partiality to the cause in which I engaged, to make me deviate from what I conceive to be the true position of affairs.

The death of Ferdinand, King of Spain, one of whose last acts was that of abolishing the salique law, by which his daughter became heiress to the throne, to the exclusion of his brother, Prince Carlos, called forth at once the indignation of that portion of the country by whom he was then honoured and beloved. This prince's claim to the crown rested, as they con- PRETENSIONS OF DON CARLOS. 5 ceived, on King Ferdinand's not having thepower of abolishing a law which had so long existed, although in favour of his daughter, — and I am not sufficiently prepared to discuss thoroughly that question; yet I am individually satisfied with the justice of the decision of the great majority of the Spanish people ; added to which, his tory declares to us that the kingdom of Spain had formerly an absolute hereditary monarchy, the females inheriting in default of male issue ; the king then appears to have had the power of disposing of his crown to what branch of the royal family he might prefer — of which we have an instance, when Charles the Second gave his dominions to the Duke of Anjou.

The " sa toque" law has, however, been since established. As regards myself, I am far from believing that the rising of the great mass of the Carlists, which first took place at Bilbao, in the month of October 1833, had its origin in the actual wish of establishing Don Carlos on the throne of his ancestors, although such is generally believed to be the case ; and is so far correct, that it may be without doubt affirmed, that what at first was the mere surmise of a few, has since taken root in the hearts of many. Yet, from all the information I was enabled to collect in the country, I feel satisfied that I have more than com- THE BASQUE PROVINCES. mon reason for conceiving, that the prominent cause originated in the fear that the peculiar rights of the " Fueros" of the Basque provinces and Navarre might be overthrown or infringed upon by the liberal party who surround the throne of Isabella, the justness of whose in tentions was never reasonably submitted to the minds of the proud and haughty spirits of the peasantry of those provinces; and it must be deeply regretted, that the great neglect of ener getic measures, which then, as now, are ever wanting in the leaders of Spanish affairs, did not urge them promptly to take the measures, which most undoubtedly they might have done, for quelling in its infancy, the rising of a party that very shortly succeeded in convulsing the whole of Spain.

The laws, manners, and customs of the small mountain provinces, where, at the commencement of the war, the most enthusiastic spirit of flying to arms took place, and amongst whom the great mass of Don Carlos's army still exists, differ in a great measure from those of any other part of Spain. They comprehend about a fif teenth part of the population, and not a hun dredth part of the territory of the kingdom; and although the inhabitants acknowledge the autho rity of a sovereign, at the same time their adm*h DESCRIPTION OF DON CARLOS. nistration is carried on by election. The rising of the people against the throne of Isabella had commenced several months previous to Don Carlos's entry into Spain, during which period he was a resident in England ; but at length, in disguise, he succeeded in passing the French frontier, and has since held his mountain court in the Basque provinces, surrounded by his hardy warriors, who are too glad to avail them selves of his presence among them, as a stimu lant to their feats of arms, and as a means of supplying their necessities.

The person of the prince is by no means striking or particularly aristocratic, inclining more to embonpoint than gracefulness. His large mustachios, however, which he invariably wears, give a character and expression to his countenance which, from the fairness of his complexion and small eyes, would be otherwise far from striking. His manners are mild, pleasing, and courteous; and his dress, which generally consists of a black surtout coat, trousers, and boots, is simple and unaffected, as is also his general demeanour; in age he i"!3 about fifty, and of the middle stature. I may be incorrect, yet I have been informed by one of his " corps de guides," or body-guard, that, al though by no means wanting in personal courage, Don Carlos seldom leads his army to the field SEAT OF THE CIVIL WAR. of battle; and even at Mendigorria, where he narrowly escaped being taken prisoner by the Christinos, he did not command in person on the field of action.

The extent of country that may be said to a man to uphold Carlist opinions, is terminated on the north by the Pyrenees, on the French side of which are the forces of Louis Philippe, commanded by General Harispe, occupying an extended line of observation, for the purpose of preventing all supplies from passing to the prince's army ; — on the east, by the Bay of Biscay, fully and ably protected by an Eng lish squadron, under Lord John Hay ; — - and to the west by a line of defended positions on the rivers Arga and Ega, the latter of which washes the walls of Pampeluna, and joins the Ebro between Tolosa and Tudela. The river Ebro itself, dividing the kingdom of Navarre and the Basque provinces, consisting of Biscay, Alava, and Guipuscoa, from Old Castile, forms the southern boundary. In thus detailing the boundaries of this part of Spain, I by no means wish it to be inferred, that in those alone exist the whole of Queen Isabella's enemies; various incursions and crossings of the Ebro have been made, more particularly that of the enterprising General Gomez only recently, and which I shall GUERILLA TROOPS. take an opportunity of explaining.

None, how ever, have met with any very favourable results to the Carlist cause, and most have been of a disastrous nature. Numerous bands of insur gents still exist, both in High Arragon and Ca talonia, the principal commander of whom, the daring Cabrera, although frequently wounded, and narrowly escaping capture, still pursues his revengeful career for the death of his aged mother, by devastating his lovely country with bloodshed and robbery. These scattered bodies of half organized guer illa troops, are neither so formidable from their number, nor from the nature of that part of the country in which they are generally found, as those of the provinces who alone form the great body of Don Carlos's army ; the utmost numerical force of which, under any circumstances, that could be brought into the field under arms, I should say, could not exceed thirty thousand men.

With such a force, it appears almost in credible that the Carlists should have held out, and should with undiminished ardour continue to fight, against a superior force of well-disciplined and well-organized regular troops, to which may be added, the auxiliary assistance of the British, Algerine, and Portuguese Legions. Deeply and sincerely must it be regretted, by all b3 NATURE OF THE COUNTRY. who have hearts to feel for their own homesand families, or for the freedom and pride of their country, that this cruel and unnatural war is not yet over, nor the murdering knife at rest. The mountainous nature of then* country, every yard of which is familiar to them, their in dividual bodily hardihood and independent ha bits, their extreme powers of bearing fatigue, added to an unparalleled quickness of movement, render it almost an impossibility to bring them to any sort of general engagement ; which puts it out of the question to hope to gain any favourable re sults, from the constant skirmishes and opera tions that take place.

It is my firm belief, that thousands of lives must yet be lost before a war, carried on with such ardour, and under circumstances so peculiar, and so much to be lamented, can be brought to a happy termi nation, Since my return to England, I have endea voured to obtain the perusal of as many of the published opinions of my own countrymen as I could collect, and as far as my personal know ledge of both Carlists and Christinos enables me to judge ; as well as from my earnest endeavours to obtain correct information from the peasants and more wealthy inhabitants when in Spain, I am fully borne out in asserting that THE TREE OF GUERNICA. the majority of the Carlists are fighting for what they conceive to be an unwarrantable infringement on their ancient privileges. This opinion appears to be held, also, by the talented author of " Portugal and Gallicia,"* with whom I have some family connexion ; and, although in this, my humble account of the events to which I was an eye-witness in the seat of war in Spain, I, in no way, presume to give any detail of historical matters, yet I must take leave to add, that I published such an opinion in the " United Service Journal" some time previously to the appearance of that admirable work.

To these privileges, sanc tified by unconstitutional oaths under the ever lasting tree of Guernica, *f" may certainly be traced the inconceivable and inhuman miseries under which the fair Espagna is now suffering ; and although I am willing to declare, that none more truly love the spirit of independence and freedom ; and none are so calculated, both from the nature of their country, habits, and mode of life, to enjoy it, as are the provincials and Navar- * His uncle, the Hon. Charles Herbert, married the Hon. Byng, my aunt. — His father, the late Earl of Carnar von, was my godfather. t This famous tree, so celebrated in the history of Biscay, was said to have been destroyed by the soldiery for fire-wood, and another christened with much solemnity. CAPTAIN HENNINGSEN. rese of North Spain, — yet have these magnani mous and high-spirited people — haunted by the bigotry of the priesthood, and the despotism of an over-desire for liberty, at the expense of the rest of the nation, fallen from their ancient pinnacle of splendid freedom into the snare, which a too hur ried taking up of arms has brought them.

And, alas! what is before them when conquered? Their leaders are lost to themselves and to their country — their followers restless and dissatisfied, after so long an association with bloodshed and de spair; endowed with an indefatigable activity and love of independence, would sooner fly to robbery and unlawful practices for a livelihood, than return to their once peaceful and plentiful homes. Captain Henningsen, although strongly and naturally biassed towards the welfare of that party with whom he so gallantly shared both toils and pleasures, has also gratified the public by an admirable account of his campaign, under the enterprising Zumalacarregui ; and, divest ing the book of its pohtical opinions, with which, in courtesy, none have a right to inter fere, his account of the country and the war, over many parts of which I have traced the same road, is, in my opinion, by far the most.

ORIGIN OF THE WAR. accurate and most faithful I have yet seen, though I differ from him almost entirely as to the origin of the war, and as to the feelings of Spaniards in general. EMBARK FOR NORTH SPATN.

Chapter II

Oh war ! thou art indeed the deadliest curse Which heaven can suffer or the world endure ! However pride thy glories may rehearse, Or hopes of fame thy votaries may allure! Volcano, earthquake, pestilence impure, Are evils 1 but they poison not the spring Of thoughts and feeling — lenient time may cure These devastations ; but to thine there cling Resentment, rooted hate, and each unlikely thing. I scarcely ever recollect to have witnessed so lovely a summer's night, as that on which I em barked on board the Isabella man-of-war steamer for North Spain, and many a turn did I pace her gallant deck, as she glided quickly and swan like through an unruffled sea ; watching the beautiful moonlight view of Plymouth harbour, and my native shores, as they receded from my view. Amongst the numerous overwhelming thoughts that rushed across my mind, I endea- ARRIVAL AT SANTANDER. 15 voured to contrast the glorious country — the peaceful home — and much-loved friends I had left, for a life of activity and barbarous strife in a foreign land, which ambitious hopes, added to the anxious wish of seeing service in that part of the Peninsula, teeming with reminiscences of the glorious feats of arms gained by my countrymen during the war of independence, with the desire of gaining some interesting political and historical knowledge, had led me to be a partaker.

Our party on board, consisted of Generals Evans and Alava, with their staff, the Isabella having been purposely ordered by the Spanish government for their accommodation ; and what with agreeable conversation, fine weather, and an unusually calm sea, not a ripple disturbing the Bay of Biscay, we made a speedy and pleasant voyage, landing, on the 13th of August 1835, at Santander. Since which period, until the time of my leaving the country, I was individually an eye-witness of every action and skirmish in which either the British Auxiliary troops or the Christino army were engaged. Events subsequent to my arrival in Spain, unlooked-for and unsought, though most kindly granted, placed me in a situation, from my being attached for a length of time to the head-quarters of the commander-in- SANTANDER. chief of the army in the north, and with whom I constantly resided, and thereby was enabled to see far more of the provinces which are the principal theatre of the war than most of my English comrades, whatever may have been their superior military knowledge.