Narrative of the late Expedition to Syria, under the command of Admiral the Hon. Sir Robert Stopford

Front matter

Pixblishea tyHenr\rColtixrn,Gti\1xrlLai-o)ig}iSt. 1S4! SE US __©_3E__T. SSTSDPrOJKC. , ©.©.18. 9Ca. NARRATIVE OF THE LATE EXPEDITION TO SYRIA, UNDER THE COMMAND OF ADMIRAL THE HON. SIR ROBERT STOPFORD, G.C.B. G.CM.G. COMPRISING AN ACCOUNT OP THE CAPTURE OF GEBAIL, TRIPOLI, AND TYRE; STORMING OF SIDON ; BATTLE OF CALAT-MEIDAN ; BOMBARDMENT AND CAPTURE OF ST. JEAN D'ACRE, &c. &c. By W. P. HUNTER, Esq. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MAHLBOROUGH STREET. 1842. LONDON: PRINTED BY MOYES AND BABCLAY, CASTLE STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE. DEDICATION. TO THE HONOURABLE SIR ROBERT STOPFORD, &c. &c. &c. REAR-ADMIRAL OF ENGLAND. London, November 1841. Sir, I present these volumes under an anxious desire of acknowledging, to the best of my humble ability, the eminent judgment, prudence, and valour, evinced in your direction of the late allied operations on the coast of Syria ; for although, in the course of this narrative, as on the field where the events occurred, your di- DEDICATION. recting hand may not on all occasions have been apparent, yet I am not the less aware of the unceasing energy and talent with which you ever administered to the well being of the general cause, and by which you mainly contributed to the brilliant re sults of the expedition of which you were the head. I have the honour to remain, Sir, Your very obedient humble servant, W. PATISON HUNTER.

Preface

. The Author would sain hope he has peculiar indulgences to claim from the Public and its critics for this Work. It was undertaken in con sequence of the interest which he believed, would be attached to many of the scenes he had witnessed ; and a large portion (as it appeared in the United Service Journal) was the employment of only a few weeks, whilst recruiting in Malta from the hardships of a long Syrian tour. Above all, he has to deal with numerous naval and military details ; in which, even the most pro ficient dread the scanning eye of the many authorities in the present day. The notice it has already met with from the press, whilst appearing in a partial and crude form, leads VI

PREFACE.

. him to hope that, corrected and enlarged as it now is, its merits will alike be measured by the abstract interest of the subject it describes. His original intention was to have continued his narrative throughout the whole of the inland operations, of which he was a spectator, in various rambles from one extreme of the interior of Syria to the other ; but other avocations pre clude at the moment the possibility of carrying that design into excution. Colonial Club, Oct. 1841. ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. Admiral Sir Robert Stopford, G.C.B., &c. Frontispiece. Sketch Map to illustrate the War in Syria. .Page 1 Attack on Gebail 22 Boat Attack on Tortosa 90 Plan of the Battle of Acre 262 r Bombardment of Acre 272 Breach in the Land-wall at Acre CONTENTS. PAGE DEDICATION Ill

PREFACE.

V ILLUSTRATIONS IX

Chapter I. Opening Of The Campaign

— -ARRIVAL OF THE ADMI- RAL LANDING OF TURKISH TROOPS BOMBARD- MENT OF GEBA1L FIRST RAMBLES ON SHORE. I shall preface this recital of a tour in Syria, with the narrative it embraces, by a departure from Constantinople, as it will prove, I believe, the best introduction I can offer. On the 22d August, 1840, I left that city a guest in H. M. S. Dido. She was proceeding with despatches from the am bassador to Admiral Sir Robert Stopford, their purport, it was generally understood, being to acquaint the Admiral with a de- VOL. I. B BRITISH SHIPS. claration delivered by Count Pontois, that France would not interfere in the proposed settlement of the Turco-Egyptian question, in accordance with the convention of the other powers, unless in the course of the proceedings she found that her interests therein were compromised.

It was not known in what part of the Mediterranean the Admiral might be found. Shortly after quitting the Dardanelles, how ever, two other British men-of-war, the Implacable and Hastings, were descried to the southward, and who communicated that the fleet had sailed for Alexandria. Those ships were also on their way to join the Admiral, and had been left thus far in the rear, in expectation that they might bring up news of importance. In their instruc tions they were directed to be prepared for attack, it having been thought not improba ble that they might have to meet a French man as a foe. TYRE AND SIDON. We arrived at Alexandria on the 29th, and found the Admiral, together with several line-of-battle ships. Within two hours afterwards, the Dido received orders to pro ceed to the coast of Syria, there to join the squadron under Commodore Napier.

It was on one of those rich mornings peculiar to the Mediterranean, that between Tyre and Sidon I first caught a glimpse of the Syrian shore. The sun was still par tially hid behind the distant range of the Lebanon, but the different points were to be recognised, and the localities of " the Sister Cities " pointed out to me — those marts where ancient commerce and luxury had probably their first origin — alike cele brated for their wealth and their pride — their early glory and the subsequent curse which a dire degeneration engendered ; whose pristine eras belong only to the faintest page of history ; whom the Scriptural writings so graphically describe : — " Tyre, COAST OF SYRIA. the mart of nations, whose merchants are princes, whose traffickers are the honourable of the earth whom those of Sidon, that pass over the sea, have replenished."* " Thy borders are in the midst of the sea, thy builders have perfected thy beauty.

"f Faint as the link may appear, yet reflec tion wove thereon its spell, strangely con necting the past with the present. The history of Syria is fraught with remarkable events, and the coast of Cœlo-Syria more particularly, as associated with early classic story. In every age, revolution and oppression, treachery and rapine, have reared their heads at intervals over its devoted soil ; and now the shades of another dark drama were in all probability approaching, — the strength of Europe aiding a contest for the question of Mussulman pre-eminence ! * Isaiah, xxiii. f Ezekiel, BAY OF BEYROUT. On the 1st of September, we anchored amongst the squadron in the broad Bay of Beyrout. It was then composed of the Powerful, bearing the Commodore's pendant, five other line-of-battle ships, two fri gates, a corvette, an 18-gun brig, and two war-steamers.

Within the moorings of these ships were about forty Egyptian and Syrian craft, which had been captured and detained by the look-out frigates. The Powerful was lying with her broadside close in upon the town, and the Ganges was placed in the same threatening position towards the laza retto, a large building about a mile along shore. Suleiman Pacha was in command of Bey rout, and had around him, it was thought, about 10,000 troops. Ibrahim and the Emir Beschir were also said to be some where in the neighbourhood, but with a less considerable body. The news which the Dido brought from ACTIVITY OF OUR CRUISERS. Alexandria, and which was to the effect that Mehemet had not hitherto evinced any symptoms of submission, but, on the con trary, had spoken in lofty terms of his in dependence, tended if possible to increase the warlike preparations which the Commo dore had been making.

The cruisers were now more than ever active in intercepting native or Egyptian vessels, with cargoes of provisions or necessary stores, and in preventing others from communicating with the ports. Amongst the most important so detained was a large frigate transport, laden with warlike provisionments. Nor were these the only measures un dertaken during this period of apparent indecision on the part of the Egyptian au thorities, and by which they intended to further merely their own ulterior views. Mr. Wood, who, from his acquaintance with the Arabic, had been sent to the squadron by the ambassador at Constantinople for the AN EXHORTATION. purpose of aiding the objects of the Porte in Syria, was indefatigable in promulgating amongst the natives of influence the actual intentions and wishes of the Allied Powers.

Under the direction of the Commodore, he rendered into Arabic an exhortation, as it was termed, for distribution throughout the country. I subjoin a copy of that docu ment. "Given at Beyrout, from on Board of Her Britannic Majesty's Ship Powerful. " Syrian6 ! — Great Britain, Austria, Rus sia, and Prussia, in conjunction with the Sultan, have decided that the rule of Mehe met Ali shall cease in Syria; and I have been sent here with an advanced squadron to assist in throwing off the yoke of the Pacha of Egypt. " You know that a hatti-scheriff has been issued by the Sultan, securing the life and property of his subjects, and which is in full THE COMMODORE'S ADDRESS TO THE SYRIANS. operation throughout the Turkish territories ; in addition to this, the Allied Powers have engaged to recommend to the Sultan an arrangement which will render your con dition happy and comfortable.

" Inhabitants of Lebanon, who are more particularly under my eyes, I call upon you to rise and throw off the yoke under which you are groaning ; troops, arms, and am munition, are daily expected from Con stantinople, and in the meantime the Egypt ians shall no longer molest your coast. " Soldiers of the Sultan, who were trea cherously led from your homes to the burning sands of Egypt, and have since been transported to Syria, I call upon you, in the name of the Great Powers, to return to your allegiance. All past events will be forgotten, and your arrears of pay dis charged by the Sultan. (Signed) Charles Napier." PREPARATIONS FOR WAR. During the interval in which affairs were so proceeding, two ships were despatched to meet the Turkish Admiral, Walker Bey, who was expected from Cyprus with Turk ish troops ; and the Commodore embarked in the Gorgon steamer, along with the prin cipal military officers, to examine the coast, with the view of ascertaining the best place for effecting a landing ; after which he pro ceeded also to Cyprus, farther to hasten the arrival of the Turks.

On shore there was no appearance of other intentions than those of resistance. The streets leading from the sea had been entrenched in all directions ; breastworks of sand-bags were placed at every angle, and a large park of artillery collected within the walls. Such was the report of the English consul, who, with most of the foreign mer chants, still remained in Beyrout. At midnight of the 4th, the Gorgon returned with the Commodore on board, and b2 STRANGE FLEET IN SIGHT. early next morning signal was made, " Ma rines, be in readiness for landing in heavy marching order to-morrow at 2 p.m." This command was productive of lively commo tion throughout the squadron ; but it was shortly afterwards given out that a descent was not to be attempted unless in event of the previous arrival of the Turkish troops.

In reality, I believe, the order was only intended to induce, if possible, a greater degree of effectiveness in the preparations. Several more ships were now despatched to look out for the expected reinforcements : amongst others, the Dido. On the evening of the second day, the Thunderer, con siderably out at sea, signalised, " twenty one strange sail in sight," and afterwards, " extinguish lights." These were but precautionary measures, as the strange sail had not distinctly been made out ; yet they naturally created some anxiety, it being for a short time a matter of doubt whether the APPROACH OF THE ENGLISH ADMIRAL. 11 amount of force so near at hand was indeed friend or foe. France, it was known, had nearly that number of ships assembled on a neighbouring shore, and, in the position of political affairs, it was to be presumed that the issues of war or peace had been by her committed to the casualties of a sealed inclosure.

Had that contingency been re alised, the force of France would have been, numerically, three times superior to the British squadron as it existed on the spot at the moment. Such doubts were soon relieved, as the Phœnix war-steamer shortly communicated the approach of the English Admiral, accompanied by several line-of battle ships, and of other ships to windward under Turkish colours. Daylight discovered no less than thirty four sail bearing up for the bay of Beyrout. In the afternoon, when they were assembled with the others before the town, and when an interchange of salutes took place, the THE ALLIED FLEET. sight was most imposing. A fleet of twenty three British, three Austrian, and five Turk ish men-of-war, besides two other war-ships, American and French, who were there as spectators.

Nearer the shore the Turkish transports and the numerous native vessels, their high kaik prows and lateen sails add ing, by happy contrast, to the beauty of the picture. Nor was the back-groundless striking : Lebanon's mountains rising from the water's edge, whilst above all extended, far in the distance, the loftier range, which has its origin in the plain of Baalbec. In the afternoon of the same day (9th), it became known that an immediate descent was intended ; operations being left by the Admiral under the guidance of the Commo dore, since the latter had already had op portunity of completing his arrangements. Sir Charles Smith, Colonel of Engineers, who had been named in England to the command of the troops, had fallen into HOSTILE PROCEEDINGS COMMENCED. 13 such a weak state of health as to be in capacitated from active duty ; so that the further charge of operations, after landing, also now devolved upon the Commodore, subordinate to the Admiral.

Towards evening the Cyclops war-steamer, by signal from the flag-ship, threw several shells at a body of troops observed in the outskirts of the town. There was then no longer question as to the proposed tone of proceedings. Signal was about the same time made for the marines to embark on board the Gorgon after dark ; and instruc tions were also given that, of the 5400 Turkish troops which had just arrived, as many as possible should be concentrated in the other three steamers. The Dido and Wasp were ordered to take up a position as near the extremity of the south west cape as the depth of water would permit. These steps being proceeded with, the THE STEAMERS. Dido anchored within about 600 yards of the rocks; but the Wasp, being a much smaller vessel, got in to about half that distance. The moon shortly rose, and we could see that our movements had been productive of considerable activity on shore.

It soon became evident that the enemy were employed in taking up a position on the portion of the cape immediately op posite to us. Dawn of day discovered the three steamers hanging off the cape, every portion of their decks, and even the paddle-boxes, covered with a dense mass of soldiery, of which the 1500 red-jackets on board the Gorgon were the most conspicuous. The Dido and Wasp were then ordered to weigh anchor, and to ride by a kedge. All the other ships at once began to get under way, and to form a line, extending from abreast of the town to the portion of the cape where the Dido and Wasp were THE OPPOSITE SHORE. 15 stationed, — a distance of about a mile. These evolutions were purposely performed slowly, and in a manner which made it evident that most of the ships were work ing up to the point, as if to cover a landing ; and in that interval, as had been looked forward to, the enemy continued to pour in, with increasing numbers, upon the cape.

The shore opposite to us was, for the most part, rugged rock, intersected here and there with small patches of land, upon which were trees and several small houses. It had a gradual ascent, also, of about 200 feet. A ledge of rock, four or five feet high, arose at the water's edge, which must have rendered disembarkation tedious and difficult ; at the same time that the ad vantages to be gained by the position were not all appreciable. At about 10 a.m., the other ships having taken up their stations, the Benbow, seventy four, neared in to our position, and having THROWING SHELLS. anchored, immediately began to throw shell upon the portion of the cape where, it was to be presumed, were assembled the greatest number of the enemy. In a short time she had so well ascertained the range that her shells fell with the utmost precision.

Fire was shortly afterwards partially opened from several other of the nearest ships. The firing continued for about an hour and a half, during which period the de structive missiles fell more or less over the whole cape.* The suffering enemy, how ever, apparently believing disembarkation every moment about to take place, con tinued to maintain their ground ; when a little before mid-day, the sea breeze having set in, signal was made from the flag-ship, * The enemy were so far sheltered behind walls and abutments of rock, but more than once I observed perhaps a hundred bayonets protruding above a line of wall, and a shell fall close behind them, when the whole of those soldiers who had escaped would take to flight for further shelter, only to be again routed. LANDING OF THE TROOPS. 17 " Castor, Pique, Dido, and Wasp, follow Commodore."

At that moment, as precon certed, the steamers crossed to the other extremity of the bay (distant about ten miles). The Powerful, and other ships mentioned, who were nearer to that point, immediately followed. Before the arrival of the Dido and Wasp, although the wind served, a great portion of the troops were already landed and drawn up on the beach. The Castor frigate and Hydra war-steamer bore up more to the southward, where, at the mouth of the Nahr-el-kelb, or Dog River, about two miles from the spot of general disembarkation, the steamer simultaneously landed her Turkish troops. Hardly had the Dido arrived at the place where the descent was going forward, than she was ordered, with the Carysfort, to pro ceed about twenty miles to the northward, to open at the town of Gebail a further SUCCESSFUL RUSE. communication with the mountaineers.

It was annoying to be thus obliged to quit a scene of so much interest, and where stir ring events were hourly to be expected ; but the reader need experience no such disappointment, for we will hereafter have sufficient opportunity of seeing Jouni (the village at which the landing was effected) in occupation of the British troops. En route for our next destination, let us consider for a moment the ruse we have just seen practised upon the Egyptian troops. There is a part of the highly successful scheme which to me appears inexplicable — namely, by what divination it could have been imagined that the enemy would place themselves in the threatening trap laid for them before their eyes ? Their leader, too, formerly a French soldier, — an aide-de-camp to Ney, — and not without fame, even in Europe, for his military ex perience and tact ; he could not but be GROSS INFATUATION. 19 aware that from the heavy batteries of the ships they would clear a far greater space than necessary for the primary occupation, supposing it likely for a landing to have been intended there.

I must leave it to military men to regard the matter in their own military point of view, but it requires, one would think, little else than the plainest common sense to shew the impossibility of preventing such a descent with the means Suleiman had at command, had the fire on the part of the shipping been prolonged. In such a state of things, to see men marched down literally under the cannon's mouth, and kept there for hours, more or less exposed to shot and shell, can only be looked upon as an instance of the gross est infatuation. Supposing the landing to have been intended at the cape, had Sulei man retained all his forces in Beyrout, he surely would then have had them better ready for the defence of the town, without SEVES having been exposed to previous demorali sation by suffering and defeat.

Never was the adage, " Quern Deus vult perdere, prius dementit," more applicable, I conceive, to the conduct of men than in that first false step of the Egyptian Pacha's general. It may not be inopportune, as we shall yet see more of this man, to introduce here an outline of his history. It has not hitherto, I believe, been correctly known. A Frenchman, originally of the name of Seves, he began his career in the French navy, and from thence changed to the artillery, where he obtained the rank of captain. Being with Buonaparte in the Moscow expedition, he was taken notice of by Ney, and received from him an ap pointment as one of his aides-de-camp. In the hundred days, he served alternately as aide-de-camp to Grouchy and to Ney. During the subsequent imprisonment of the latter he was implicated in an attempt for SULEIMAN BEY. the Marshal's escape, and, avoiding investi gation, became included amongst the pro scribed.

He passed almost immediately into Egypt, where he was employed by the Pacha in organising, on the European system, a body of Mamelukes. Following Mehemet in the campaign of the Morea, he there received the rank of Bey — gained, it is said, by his gallant conduct on several occasions ; and some time afterwards, pro fessing Mahommedanism, was on the same day created pacha. His fame as a general had its origin in the successful advantages which he enabled Ibrahim to take of the gross errors committed by Hafiz Pacha at the battle of Nezib ; as an administrator in the military de artment he is, however, universally well spoken of. Upon nearing Gebail, we perceived that our consort, who had already arrived there, had not met with the friendly reception we had been anticipating, as she immediately GEBAIL. began to open fire.

We found that several musket-shots, from a castle at the southern side of the town, had been sent into the Carysfort, but that upon her returning a few rounds of grape, those marks of hos tility had been discontinued. That frigate shortly afterwards got under way, and re mained with the Dido in the offing awaiting instructions. On the following evening, the ships were joined by the Cyclops, who brought orders that Gebail should be bombarded. The castle, it had been heard, was garrisoned by several hundred Arnauts. The steamer had on board 220 marines and 150 armed mountaineers. The next day (12th), at noon, the three vessels anchored abreast of the town, and within about 400 yards of the shore. In addition to the castle which I have men tioned, it presented a solid front of low stone houses, and had altogether a most compact appearance.

The frigate and cor- ATTACK ON GEBAIL. ATTACK ON THE CASTLE. vette began firing round shot and grape, but at intervals only, under an idea that the place would shortly shew a desire to surrender. No signs of such a thing ap pearing, the firing increased and continued for the space of an hour, the steamer at the same time throwing in a few shells. The marines and mountaineers were then landed. This was done a few hundred yards to the south of the town, at the extreme of which side was situate the castle. They rapidly ascended from the beach, scrambling over stone dikes, and through cactus fences, without other object to guide them than the view of the high walls they were about to engage. It was at the moment of arriving there that they first had any knowledge either of the strength of the place or of the nature of the enemy — both which, to their cost, they found had been grossly underrated.

No sooner were they within moderate range FEARFUL ODDS. than a heavy discharge of musketry, from behind loopholes and ramparts, was directed against them ; maintaining their ground, they returned the fire. It was fearful odds : the best of marksmen, sheltered and able to take steady aim, whilst the attacking party were completely exposed and utterly ignorant of the ground. Their only course, as well for immediate safety as to give time for some attempt being made to gain en trance, was to keep up as steady a fire as possible upon the loopholes. This was done, but with what chances against them it may easily be imagined. Nor at the portion attacked was there available shelter of any description for the assailants. Near that point was found a small entre-porte. A corporal, attempting to beat in the door with the butt of his musket (no powder bag had been sent with them), was shot through the heart from a flanking loophole.

Several others were severely wounded in VALOUR OF THE MARINES. the same attempt ; and, after much labour, it was ultimately found that the entrance was walled up on the inner side. After having been about ten minutes under fire, the attacking party retreated in good order upon the boats. The marines behaved nobly : it was only after the retreat had been beat several times that the men could be drawn off. Five were killed, I believe, on the field, and eighteen wounded. The company were under the command of Capt. Serle and of Capt. Robinson (the latter a volunteer in the expedition) : the subalterns were Lieuts. Harrison, Serle, and Adair, all very young officers, who had never before smelt powder, but who nevertheless ac quitted themselves with great credit (also Lieut. Spalding, acting adjutant of the de tachment).

Capt. Austin, of the Cyclops, placed himself at the head of the men, and remained with them throughout. The friendly mountaineers who co-opervol. i. c OFFENSIVE OPERATIONS. ated with them were much more fortunate — from the fact that, during the whole affair, they acted up to that principle which Shak speare, alluding to in a similar exigency, has aptly termed " the better part of valour:" they advanced no farther than to where they could find secure shelter. That their conduct was not the effect of cowardice was proved by the fearless manner in which, at the conclusion, they assisted in carrying off the wounded. The marines having again reached the steamer, offensive operations were com menced upon a more fitting scale. For four hours the fire of the ships was directed against the castle ; yet little comparatively was effected, although the Carysfort fired 700 and the Dido 600 rounds.

Only the upper part, surmounted by a large cupola, could be made to give way, the under being a solid mass of ancient building. During the night several discharges of A DESPATCH. 27 musketry were heard from the town, when it was found that the Arnauts had retired, and that the place had been taken posses sion of by the mountaineers.* "A Despatch from Captain Martin of Her Majesty's Ship Carysfort, commanding officer of the expedition, to Commodore Napier. " H. M.S. Carysfort, Gebail, Sept. 13, 1840. " Sir, — I have the honour to inform you that, pursuant to your directions, I anchored yesterday off Gebail. The enemy have evacuated the town ; the mountaineers are coming in fast for arms ; and as far as I can judge, from their words and profes sions, the most enthusiastic feeling prevails * It is a truly sorrowful thing that information as to the strength of the castle and its defences had not been previously obtained, by which the lives and services of so many brave men might have been spared.

It was afterwards found that there was not at the time a whole day's provision in the castle, and that its defenders were otherwise in a very sickly condition. BOMBARDMENT OF GEBAIL. among them. I trust that these results will, in some degree, excuse the loss we have sustained. I shall now proceed to detail the circumstances of the attack. " At noon I anchored, with springs, within musket-shot of Gebail. The Dido took a good position ahead of the Carys fort, and the Cyclops astern ; groups of mountaineers immediately came down to the beach, and many were brought off by the boats. Having given a sufficient time for the marines to prepare for landing, and for their commanding officer to reconnoitre the place of disembarkation, at 1 p.m. the ships opened their fire upon the castle, and upon the points which the mountaineers designated to us as occupied by the Al banians.

This was returned by occasional musket-shots. When the fire had been continued with great precision, and appa rently with some effect, for about an hour, the marines, accompanied by a large party ASSAULT ON THE CASTLE. 29 of armed mountaineers, pushed off from the Cyclops, and to cover their landing the ships reopened upon the castle. About half-past 3 p.m., observing the detachment formed upon the beach, to the south of the town, and believing all the effect likely to be produced by our shot was already done, and that the gardens had been swept by the launches' carronades, I made the signal to push on. The marines advanced briskly to the assault, but the cliff soon obstructed my view of their progress through the gardens in front of the castle. They reached within thirty yards of the tower, when a destructive fire was opened upon them from a crenelled outwork, having a deep ditch in front, which was completely masked from the fire of the ships.