The Travels of Richard and John Lander ... for the discovery of the course ... of the Niger, from unpublished documents in the possession of the late J. W. Barber Fullerton, with a prefatory analysis of the previous travels of Park, Denham, Clapperton, Adams, Lyon, Ritchie, etc. into the...

Front matter

Lnim. Fu&shedfir rfv. Bvpmwrs iy John Sounders. 25,Ntwaazt Strut, 1&35 M©IEA thsie Ci_,_PSTi__I__ on- M___.W _®i___J_A _ LONDON Published for the Proprietors "by J Saunders 25 NEWGATE STREET 1S35 . OF E1CBAR9 LAWBMMa. IP.TO THJE ITsTERIOM. OF FOIR THE BISCOTEIYOF THE COUIiSE Or <-_ TTWE ND©!E!a% . ~>> /// ////yMj^' {/fram^i^^ t%e>A0Uf$£07i (ffMfa/yP CAPT? JsOBDT WMJJAM MAMMER FmJÆRTWr. ILLUSTRATED WITH PLATE S. THE TRAVELS or RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER, INTO THE D^TEIDOIR ©F AFIRfl©^, FOR THE DISCOVERY OF THE COURSE AND TERMINATION OF THE NIGER; FROM UNPUBLISHED DOCUMENTS IN THE POSSESSION OF THE LATE CAPT. JOHN WILLIAM BARBER FULLERTON, Employed in the African Service WITH A Prefatory Analysis of the Previous Travels OF PARK, DENHAM, CLAPPERTON, ADAMS, LYON, RITCHIE, &o. Inttr the Ixitfitvta xtixeyplavfn €aui\ttiei at fsfrt'ta.

BY ROBERT HUISH, Esq. Author of the "Last Voyage of Capt. Sir John Ross, to the Arctic Regions," "Memoirs cf W. Cobbett, Esq." "Private and Political Life of the late Henry Hunt, Esq." &c. &c. s.c LONDON: (Printed for the Proprietors,) PUBLISHED BY JOHN SAUNDERS, 25, NEWGATE STREET. 1836. printed at th« Atlas Press, by W. Hill, 48, Northampton-stre_t, Clerkenwell.

Introduction

. Many are the acquisitions which geography has made since the boundaries of commerce have been extended, and the spirit of enterprise has carried our adventurous countrymen into countries which had never yet been indented by a European foot; and which, in the great map of the world, appeared as barren and uninhabitable places, destitute of all resources from which the traveller could derive a subsistence. It must, however, on the other hand, be admitted, that de sign has frequently had little to do in the discovery of those countries, however well it may have been conceived, and however great the perseverance may have been, which was exhibited in the pursuit. The discovery of America was, indeed, a splendid example qfan enlightened conception, and an undaunted heroism, crowned with the most complete success ; and the laudable and unabated ardour which this country, in despite of the most appalling obstacles, has persisted in solving the great geographical problem of the Course and Termination of the Niger, may be placed second in rank to the discovery of America.

As long as any fact is shut out from the knowledge of man, he who is in search of it will supply the deficiency by his own conclusions, which* will be more or less removed from the object of his pursuit, according to the previous opinions which he may have formed, or to the credit which he may have placed on the reports of others. These remarks cannot be better illustrated, than in the case furnished by the Joliba, the Quorra, or Niger, the termination of which river was utterly unknown until Richard and John Lander, braving difficulties which would have broken any other hearts than theirs, succeeded in navigating the river until its conflux with the ocean. Since Park's first discovery of the Joliba, every point of the compass has been assumed for the a

INTRODUCTION.

. ulterior course and termination of that river, and however wrong subsequent discovery has proved this speculative geography to have been, it is not to be regarded as useless. Theories may be far short of the truth, but while they dis play the ingenuity and reasoning powers of their authors, they tend to keep alive that spirit of inquiry and thirst for knowledge which terminates in discovery. Various accounts of theis river had been gradually col lected from different sources, which afforded grounds for fresh theories respecting its termination. That of Reichard was the favourite, he supposing that it assumed a south west course, and terminated in the gulph of Guinea. It was observed at the time, that there was neither evidence on which such an opinion could be supported, nor any by which it could be refuted.

Discovery has proved him to be right in respect to its ultimate disposal ; but at the same time, he participated in the general error regarding its course to Wangara. These different opinions appeared in several publications, in which, as might be expected, much error was mixed up with the general correctness. That the river flowed into the sea at Funda, was the principal and chief point that was gained; but the most, extraordinary circumstance attending this discovery, was, that no one knew where Funda was. The only exception to these was the theory of Major Denham, supported by Sultan Bello's in formation, who continued its easterly course below Boossa, and ended it in Lake Tchad. Such was the uncertain condition in which the course of the Niger remained, when the happy idea occurred of sending the Messrs. Landers to follow its course below Boossa.

By this step the British government completed what it had begun, and accomplished in a few months the work of ages. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Page 1. Herodotus. Early History of Africa. Interior of Africa. Malte Brun. Division of Africa. Early African Discoveries. Portuguese Discoveries. Madeira. Island of Arguin. Bemoy. Prester John. Death of Bemoy. Elmina. Ogane. John II. Lord of Guinea. Diego Cam. His return to Congo. Catholic Missionaries. Acts of the Missionaries. Magical Customs of the Natives. Expulsion of the Portuguese. CHAP. II. Page 19 Expeditions of the'English. Thompson. First Expedition of Jobson. African Animals. Jobson's arrival at Tenda. Bukar Sano. Second Expedition of Jobson. The Horey. Expedition of Vermuyden. Expedition of Stibbs. Falls of Barraconda. Natives of Upper Gambia.

Dangers from the Elephants and Sea Horses. Travels of Jannequin. CHAP. III. Page 39. African Association. Expedition of Ledyard. His Death. Expedition of Lucas. Major Houghton. His Death. CHAP V.* Page 44. Park's First Journey. Pisania. Dr. Laidley. Jindy. Mandingo Negroes. Kootacunda. Woolli. Jatta. Konjour. Membo Jumbo. Tallika. Ganado. Koorkarany. Fatteconda. Alinami. Departure from Fatteconda. Joag. Robbery of Mr. Park by the Natives. Demba Sego. Gungadi. Tesee. Tigitty Sego. Anecdote of an African Wife. Kooniakary. Sambo Sego. CHAP. VI. Page 64. King Demba. Sego Jalla. Salem Daucari. Route from Soolo to Feesurah. Kemmoo. Kaarta. Koorabarri. Funing Kedy. Ali, King of Ludamar. Sampaka. Arrival at the Camp of Ali. Conduct of the Moors. Robberies of Ali. Illness of Mr. Park. Curiosity of the African Ladies.

Whirlwinds of the Desert. An African Wedding. CHAP. VII. Page 81. Sufferings of Mr. Park. Departure of Ali. Park's introduction to Fatima. Beauty of the Moorish Women. The Great Desert of Jarra. Demba taken by tbe Moors. Jarra. Queira. Escape of Mr. Park. His perilous Situation. Shrilla. Wawra. Dingyee. Departure from Doolinkeaboo. First view of the Niger. Amiable conduct of a Bambarra Woman. Mansong King of Sego. Sansanding. Park's Encounter with a Lion. Moorzan. Silla. Kea. Superstition of the Natives. Madiboo. Sibity. Sansanding. Conduct of Mansong. Yamiua. Balaba. Taffara. Sominoo. Kollikorro. Saphie writing. Bambakoo. Kooma. Park robbed by the Foulahs. Reflections. CHAP. VIII. Page 108. Sibidooloo. The Mansa of Wonda. Mansia. Generous Conduct of a Karfa. A Negro School. Treatment of the Slaves.

Close of the Rhainadam. Departure of the Coffle. Kinytakooro. The Jallonka Wilderness. Ccffle attacked by Bees. Fate of Nealee. Sooseta. Koba. Jallonka Banditti. Malacotta. Magnanimous Conduct of Darnel. Return to the Gambia. Park's Arrival in England. Chap. IV. was accidentally numbered Chap. V. CONTENTS. VI CHAP. IX. Page 125. Frederic Horneman. Ummesogeir. Siwah. Conduct of the Siwahans. Mourzouk. Fezzan. Death of Horneiuan. Nicholls. His Death. CHAP. X. — -Page 132. Adams. Soudenny. Timbuctoo. King and Queen of Timbuctoo. La Mar Zarah. Natives of Timbuctoo. Their Customs. Their Religion. Female Physicians. Amusements at Timbuctoo. Capture of Slaves. Penal Code at Timbuctoo. Doubts respecting the Niger. CHAP. XI. Page 145. Adams' Departure from Timbuctoo. Tudenny. Di' .ress in the Desert.

Vied D'leim. Escape of Adams. Hilla Gibla. Adam's Amour with Isha. Adams sold as a Slave. Hieta Mouessa Ali. Recapture of Adams. CHAP. XII. Page 155. Wadinoon. Treatment of Slaves. Cruel Treatment of Adams. Murder of Dolbie. Characteristics of European Slaves. Ransom of Adams. Return of Adams tu England. Justification of Adams. CHAP. XIIL Page 163. Sidi Hainet. Timbuctoo. Women of Timbuctoo. Dress of the Natives of Timbuctoo. Bimbinah, Wassanah. Reflections on National Character. Comparison between Adams and Sidi Hamet. Reflections on Timbuctoo. Close of Adams' Narrative. CHAP. XIV. Page 173. Population of West Barbary. The Errifi. The Shilluh. Anecdote of Shilluh. Character of the Arabs. The Moors. The Marabouts. Religion of the Africans. CHAP. XV. Page 183. Second Expedition of Park. His Departure.

Attacks on Mr. Park. His disheartening Situation. Conduct of Mansong. Death of Mr. Anderson. Death of Mr. Park. Manuscripts of Park. CHAP. XVI. Page 192. Tuckey's Expedition. His Departure. Disasters of the Expedition. Death of Tuckey. Expedition of Captain Gray. Expedition of Major Laing. CHAP. XVII. Page 198. E ipedition of Captain Lyon. Benioleed. Zemzein. Bonjem. Sockna. Hoon. Wadan. Journey to Mourzouk. Zeighan. Sainnoo. Wad el Nimmel. CHAP. XVIII. Page 207. Mourzouk. Description of Mourzouk. Castle of Mourzouk. Construction of thc Houses of Mourzouk. The Fighi. African Education. The Burying Places of Mourzouk. Dress of the Women. Filthy habits of the Natives. Their Dances. Dresses of the Sultan's Children. The Sultan's Son. Revenue of the Sultan of Fezzan. Personal Characteristics of the Natives.

Moral Character of the Fezzaners. Music of the Fezzaners. Illness of Captain Lyon. His Distressing Situation. Treachery of Mukni. Death of Mr. Ritchie. Return of Captain Lyon. CHAP. XIX. Page 227. Expedition of Denham and Clapperton. Sockna Sand Storm in the Desert. Mourzouk. Interview with the Sultan of Mourzouk. Boo Khaloom. Departure of Major Denham for Tripoli. Sails for England. Entrance into Sockna. Superstition of Boo Khaloom. Marriage at Sockna. Agutifa. Tingazeer. Zeghren. Omhal Henna. Illness of Clapperton and Oudney. Strength of the Expedition. Description of the Arabs. CHAP. XX. Page 246. Expedition to the Westward. Tuaricks. Kharaik. Gorma. Ancient Inscriptions Oubari. Roman Buildings. Route over the Sand Hills. Wadey Shiati. Visit to the Town. Ghraat. Visit to the Sultan. Tuarick Woman.

CONTENTS. VII CHAP. XXI. Page 258. Departure from Mourzouk. Gabrone. Medroosa. Tegerhy. Natives of Tegerhy, Skeletons of Slaves. Major Denham and the Skeletons. Slaughter of the Camels. Anay. Sultan Tibbuo. Kisbee. Tiggema. Dirkee. Plundering Arabs. Bilma. Female Natives of Bilma. Boo Khaloom, and Captain Lyon's Book. Surgical Skill of the Arabs. Aghadem. Tibboo Couriers. Beere Kashifery. Negro Shampooing. Gunda Tibboos. Mina Tahr. Arab Plunderers. Kofei. Traita Tibboos. Huts of the Tariias. Lake Tchad. Lari. Death of a Coluber. Nyagami. Tribe of Monkeys. Woodie. Dress of the Natives of Woodie. Buridha. Strength of Buridlia. Min Ali Tahr, and the Royal Family of England. x CHAP. XXII. Page 291. Approach to Kouka. Description of the Bornou Troops. Barca Gana. Sheik of Kouka. Presentation to the Sheik.

Costume of the Women of Kanem and Bornou. Major Denham aud a young Lion. The Court of Bornou. Kouka. Angornou. The Bornouese. Sports of the Bornouese. Expedition against the Kcrdies. Mora, the Capital ot Mandara. The Sultan of Mandara. Malem Chadily. Expedition against the Fellatas. Defeat of the Arabs. Death of Boo Khaloom. Perilous Situation of Major Denham. Song on Boo Khaloom. Old Birnie. Gambarou. Expedition against the Mungas. CHAP. XXIII. Page 312. Sultan of Loggun. The Loggunese. Mr. Tyrwhit. The Shouaa Arabs. Tahr, the Chief of the La Salas. The Beddoomahs. Katagum. Sansan. Death of Dr. Oudney. Market of Kano. Pugilism in Kano. Marriages and Funerals of the People of Kano. The Governor of Hadyja. Quan a. Females of Quarra. Treatment of the Small Pox. A Fellata Fugitive. CHAP. XXIV.

Page 327. The Wells of Kamoon. Arrival at Sockatoo. Sultan Bello. Abolition of the Slave Trade. Clapperton's Visit to Sultan Bello. Death of Mr. Park. Obstacles to the Journey to Youri. Books of Park. Final Abandonment of the Journey. Ateeko, the Brother of Bello. Purchase of Major Denham's Baggage. The Civet Cat. The Executioner of Sockatoo. Departure from Sockatoo. Account of Sockatoo. Trade of Sockatoo. Arrival in England. CHAP. XXV. Page 344. Lander's First Expedition with Clapperton. Sultan Bello's Letter. Widah. The Sugar Berry. Beasts of Prey. Animals of Dahomy. Religion of Dahomy. Its Government. Officers of the Court of Dahomy. Marriages at Dahomy. Carnival at Abomey. Sacrifice of Victims at Abomey. Anecdote of the King of Dahomy. Badagry. Introduction to the Chief of Eyeo. Saboo.

Humba, Death of Captain Pearce. Dances at Jannah. Lander at an African Almacks. Duffoo. Erawa. Washoo. Koosoo. Akkibosa. Medical Treatment in Eyeo. Loko. Tshow. Entrance into Katunga. Theatrical Entertainments at Eyeo. Method of Salutation. CHAP. XXVI Page 379. Situation of the City of Eyeo. Its Markets. Feasts of the Youribanies. Produce of Youriba Etiquette at the Court of Katunga. African Antelopes. Sultan Yarro. Female Cavalry. Kiama. Sultan. Yarro's Daughter. Wawa. Its Productions aud Natives. The Widow Zuma. Her Costume and Domestic Arrangements. Proposal of Marriage to Clapperton. Character of the Inhabitants of Wawa. Departure from Wawa. Boussa. Inquiries respecting Park. Place of Park's Death. Expected Recovery of Park's Journal. Letter from the King of Youri. Conduct of the Widow Zuma.

Her D.ess and Escort. Mahommed El Majia. His Camp. Rejoicings at Koolfu. Its Trade. The Widow Laddie. Employment of time at Koolfu. Character of its People. Akinjie. Futika. Baebaejie. CHAP. XXVII Page 414. Military Tactics of the Fellatas. Female Warrior of Zamfra. Proceedings of Bello. Letter of Sultan Bello. Death of Clapperton. CONTENTS. CHAP. XXVIII. Page 421. Almena. Cannibals of Almena. Natives of Catica. The River Coodoina. Cuttup. The Sultan of Cuttup. Lander and the Wives of the Sultan. The River Rary. Dunrora. Lander taken back lo Cuttup. Zaria. Crosses the Koodonia. Arrival at Badagry. Attempt on lhe Life of Lander by Poison. Ransomed by Captain Laing. Arrival in England. CHAP. XXIX. Page 429. African Discoveries. Expedition of Richard and John Lander. Instructions of Government.

Departure from Portsmouth. Badagry. Visit to King- Adooley. His Conduct Traits of Lander's Character. Visit of the King's Eldest Son. Intrigues of the Mulattoes. Division of Badagry. Visit to the King of Portuguese Town. Customs of the Natives. CHAP. XXX. Page 445. Evasive Conduct of Adooley. Visit to Adooley. Visit from tlie Chief of Spanish Town. Rapacity of Adooley. Visit of General Poser's Headman. Religious Rites of ihe Mahommedans. Sports of the Natives. The Houssa Mallams. Surgical Skill of Richard Lander Articles demanded by Adooley. Female of Jenna. Character of Adooley. His Filial Affection. Battle between the Lagos and Badagrians Trial by the Cap. CHAP. XXXI. Page 467. Departure from Badagry. Progress up the River. Arrival at Wow Regulations of the Fetish at Wow. The Village of Sagba.

Passage of a Swamp. Basha. Soaio. Arrival al Bidjie. Had Faith of Adooley. Introduction to the Chief of Bidjie. Departure from Bidjie Arrival of a Messenger from Jenna. Laatoo. Larro. The Chief of Larro. Customs at Larro. Departure from larro. introducti n at the Court of Jenna. The Governor of Jenna. Pascoe and his Wife. Musicians of Jenna. The Badagry Guides. African Wars. Women of Jenna. Fate of the Governor's Wives. Conduct of the Widow. Abominable Customs at Jenna. Mourning of the Women. An African Tornado. Departure from Jenna. Arrival and Departure from Bidjie. The Chief of Chow. Departure from Chow. Egga. Arrival at Jadoo. Natives of Jadoo. Affection of the African Mothers. Engua. Afoora. Assinara. Arrival at Chouchou. Tudibu. Eco. Dufo. Chaadoo. Arrival at Row. Chekki. Coosoo. The Butter Tree.

Departure from Ciosoo. Arrival at Acboro. Lazipa. Co too. Bohoo. Visit to the Head Minister. Mallo. Jaguta. Shea. Esalay. Desertion of Esalay. Atoopa. Leoguadda. Eetcho. Market at Eetcho. Eetcholee. Arrival at Kalunga. CHAP. XXXII. Page 537. Visit to Mansolah. Cusloms of the Court of Katunga. Mansolah's Visit to the Landers. Intended Route of the Landers. The Master of the Horse. Decay of Katunga. The Markets of Katunga. Visit from Ebo. Intrigues ofthe Hives of Ebo. Visit of Houssa Mallams. Presems to the Head Men. Their Affluence. Site of Katunga. Character of the Natives. Political Constitution of Alorie. Exhibition of the Presents. Projected Departure from Katunga. Wives of Mansolah. Last Interview with Mansolah. CHAP. XXXIII. Page 558. Di-parlure from Katunga. Revolt of the Carriers. Arrival at Rumbum.

Acra. Visit of the Natives. The Governor of Keeshee. Visit of the Mallams. Singular Application of an Acba Woman. Departure Irom Acl.a. Return of the Badagry Guides. African Banditti. Village of Moussa. Progress to Kiama. Meeting of ihe Kiama Escort. Arrival at Benikenny. Kiama. CHAP. XXXIV. -Page 575. Presents to the King of Kiama. Visit to the King. Parentage of the Widow Zuma. Visit from the Mahommedan Mallams. Their Honesty. The bebun Salah. Religious Ceremonies of the Mahommedans. Anniversary ofthe Bebun Sitlah. Races at Kiama. Approach of the King. Kis Dress. The King's Children. CONTENTS. IX CHAP. XXXV. Page 587. Kakafungi. Illness of John Lander. Distressing Situation of ihe Landers. Departure from Coobley. The Midiki, or Queen of Boussa. Mr. Park's Effects. Disappointment respecting Mr. Park's Papers.

Kagogie. Airival at Yaoorie. Deceitful conduct ofthe Sultan. Description of Yaoorie. Message to the King of Boussa. Departure from Yaoorie. Letter from the Sultan of Yaoorie. CHAP. XXXVI. Page 604. Arrival at Guada. Adventure with a Crocodile. Subterraneous Course of the Niger. The King Consults the Niger. Arrival at. Wowow. Interview with the King. Negotiation for a Canoe. The King and the Sail Cellar. Arrival of the Canoe from Wowow. Preparations for Departure. Departure from Boossa. Arrival at Patashie. Message from the King of Wowo»v. Visit to the King of Wowow. Return to Patrshie. Arrival at Fever. Conduct of Ducoo. Canoes demanded by the Chief of Teah. TreacherousConduct of the Chief. Departure from Patashie. Bajiebo. Interview with the Chief of Leechee. Majie. Belee. The King of the I'ark Water.

Interview with the Water King. Piogress down the Niger. Zagozhi. Messengers arrive from Rabba. CHAP. XXXVII. Page 632. Visit of the two Arabs. Message from Mallam Dendo. Present of Mr. Park's Tob° to the Prince of Rabba. Perfidy of trie King of Nouffie. Departure from Zagozhi. Nohle Speech of the Prince of Rabba. Construction of the Canoes. Last Audience of the King of the Dark Water. CHAP. XXXVIII. Page 639. Danger from the Hippopotami. Dacannie. Gungo. Arrival at Egga. Annoyances at Egga. Departure from Egga. Arrival at Kacunda. Visit from the Chief's Brother. Departure from Kacunda. Alarm of the Natives. Hostile motions of the Natives. Explanation of rhe Chief. Information obtained from the Funda Mallam. Detention at Damaggoo. First signs of European intercourse. Departure from Damaggoo.

Arrival at Kirree. Attacked by the Natives. The Landers taken to Kirree. Loss of their Property. Holding of a Palaver. The Kirree people. CHAP. XXXIX. Page 661. Departure from Kirree. Superstition of the Eboes. Arrival at an Eboe Town. Visit to the King of Eboe. First interview with Obie. The Palaver. King Boy. Character of the Kings of Africa. Decision of Obie. Embarrassments of the Landers. Conduct of the Ebne people. Revels of the Natives. The little fat female Visiter. Her Intoxication. CHAP. XL. Page 615. Exorbitant demand of King Boy. Visit of King Obie. Arrangement made with King Boy. Preparation lor Departure. Hostile disposition of the Natives. Description of Adizzetta. Etiquette of King Boy. Offering to the Fetish. Progress down tl e River. Uncomfortable situation of the Landers.

Introduction to I orday. Progress to Brass Town. Procession down the River. Superstitious Practices of the Natives. Description of Brass. Residence of the Landers at Brass. Traffic of the Natives. CHAP. XLI. Page 696. Richard Lander proceeds to the English Brig. Arrival in the second Brass River. Reception on board the Brig. Scandalous conduct of Captain Lake. Disappointment of King Boy. Captain Lake and the Pilot. Uufeeling behaviour of Lake. Richard Lander's anxiety about his Brother. Return of John Lander. John Lander's stay at Brass Town. His Narrative. CHAP. XLII. Page 713. Proceedings on board the Brig. Presents to King Boy. Release of Mr. Spittle. Perfidy of the Pilot. Hostile Motions of the Natives. Perilous Situation of the Brig. Providential Escape. Nautical Instructions. Passage tr, Fernando Po.

X CONTENTS. Fernando Po. Colonization of Fernando Po. Traffic with the Natives. Lo calities of Fernando Po. The Kroomen. Natives of Fernando Po. Costume of the Natives. Their Thieving Propensities. Punishment of the Thieves. Re sources of the Island. Method of obtaining Palm Wine. Island of Anna Bon. Injurious Effects of the Climate. Prospective Commercial Advantages. Voyage to the Calebar River. Geographical and Nautical Directions. The Tornadoes. Superstitious Custom of the Natives. Duke Ephraim. Visit to Duke Ephraim. The Priests of Duke Town. Mourning amongst the Natives. Attack of an Alli gator. The Thomas taken by a Pirate. Departure from Fernando Po. Death of the Kroomen. Arrival in England. Advantages of the Expedition. Investi gation of the Niger. Course of the Niger. Ptolemy's Hypothesis of the Nigir.

Sources of the African Rivers. Benefit of Lander's Expedition. CHAP. XLUI. Page 757. Richard Lander's Third Expedition. Fitting out ofthe Expedition. Vessels Employed in the Expedition. Sailing of the Expedition. Arrival in the River Nun. Attack of the Natives. Impolitic Conduct of Lander. Return of Richard Lander to Fernando Po. Return of Lander to Attah. Reconciliation of the Damaggoo Chiefs. Abolition of the Sacrifices of Human Beings. Rabba. Ascent of the River Tchadda. Prophecy of King Jacket. Lander wounded by the Natives. Approaching Death of Lander. Death of Richard Lander. Infamous Conduct of Liverpool Merchants. Causes of the Attack. Meeting of the Inhabitants of Truro. THE TRAVELS or RICHARD LANDER, INTO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA.

Chapter I

Previously to entering upon the immediate suoject of the origin and progress of the different voyages, which have been un dertaken for exploring the interior of Africa, it may be not only interesting, but highly instructive, to take a rapid survey of the great Peninsula, as it appeared to the earlier travellers, and as it was found by the last of them, amongst whom may be included the individual, whose adventures in the present work, claim our chief attention. It is on record, that the coasts of Africa have been navigated from as early a period, as six hundred years before Christ, and, according to the earliest records of history, the circum navigation of Africa was accomplished by the Phœnicians, in the service of Pharaoh Necho. On referring to Herodotus, the earliest and most interesting of Greek historians, and to whom we are indebted for the knowledge of many important facts relative to Africa, in the earliest periods of its history, we find, in corroboration of the circumnavigation of Africa by the Phœnicians, " that taking their course from the Red Sea they entered into the Southern Ocean ; on the approach of autumn, they landed in Lybia, and planted some corn in the place, where they happened to find themselves ; when this was ripe, and they had cut it down, they again departed. 1.

B HERODOTUS. EARLY HISTORY OF AFRICA. Having thus consumed two years, they i 1 the third passed the columns of Hercules, and returned to Egypt. Their relation may obtain attention from others, but to me it seems incredible, for they affirmed that having sailed round Africa, they had the sur ou their right hand." It is worthy of remark, that the very circumstance, which lea Herodotus to attach discredit to the circumnavigation of Africa by the Phœnicians, on account of their having the sun to the right, is the very strongest presumption in favour of its truth. Some historians have indeed endeavoured to prove, that the voyage was altogether beyond any means, which navigation at that early era could com mand ; but in the learned exposition of Rennell, a strong degree of probability is thrown upon the early tradition.

At all events it may be considered, that the obscure knowledge, which we possessed of the peninsular figure of Africa, appears to have been derived from the Phœnicians. Herodotus, however, was himself a traveller, in those early times, of no mean celebrity. Despairing of obtaining accurate information of the then known part of the habitable world, he determined to have recourse to travelling, for the purpose of com pleting those surveys, which had been undertaken by his predecessors, and which had been left in a dubious and indefinite state. Pie resided for a considerable period in Egypt, during which, he entej-ed into a friendly communion with the native priests, from whom he obtained much accurate information, as well as a great deal, that was false and exaggerated relative to the extensive region, which extends from the Nile to the Atlantic.

According to his description it is much inferior in fertility to the cultivated parts of Europe and Asia, and suffering extremely from severe drought ; yet he makes mention of a few spots, such as Cinyps, and the high tract of Cyrene, which, undergoing the process of irrigation, may stand a comparison with the richest portions of the globe. Generally, however, in quitting the northern coast, which he terms significantly the forehead of Africa, the country became more and more arid Hills of salt arose, out of which the natives constructed their houses, without any fear of their melting beneath a shower in a region where rain was unknown. The land became almost a desert, and was filled with such multitudes of wild beasts, as to be considered INTERIOR OF AFRICA. — MALTE BRUN. 3 their proper inheritance, and scarcely disputed with them by the human race.

Farther to the south, the soil no longer afforded food even to these wild tenants ; there was not a trunk of a tree, nor a drop of water — total silence and desolation reigned. This may be considered as the first picture on record of the northern part of Africa ; a country, which, even after the lapse of two thousand years, presents to the eye of science, as regards its interior recesses, a blank in geography, a physical and not less a moral problem ; a dark and bewildering mystery. The spirit of enterprise has carried our mariners to the arctic seas, braving the most appalling dangers in the solution of a great geographical problem ; by the same power, civilization has been carried into the primeval forests of the American continent, and cities have arisen in the very heart of the Andes. The interior of Africa, however, not withstanding its navigable rivers, has been hitherto almost a sealed chapter in the history of the globe.

The deserts, which extend from Egypt to the Atlantic, and which cover a great surface of the interior, have proved a barrier to the march of conquest, or civilization ; and whatever science has gained, has been wrested by the utmost efforts of human perseverance and the continual sacrifice of human life. It must, however, be allowed that there are obstacles existing to the knowledge and the civilization of central Africa, which cannot be overcome by the confederated power of human genius. Extending 5000 miles in length, and nearly the same extent in breadth, it presents an area, according to Malte Brun, of 13,430,000 square miles, unbroken by any estuary, or inland sea, and intersected by a few long or easily navigable rivers; all its known chains of mountains are of moderate height, rising in terraces, down which the waters find their way in cataracts, not through deep ravines and fertile valleys.

Owing to this configuration, its high table lands are without streams, a phenomenon unknown in any other part of the world; while, in the lower countries, the rivers, when swelled with the rains, spread into floods and periodical lakes, or lose them selves in marshes. According to this view of the probable structure of. the unknown interior, it appears as one immense flat mountain, rising on all sides from the sea by terraces ; an opinion favoured DIVISION OF AFRICA. by the absence of those narrow pointed promontories, in which other continents terminate, and of those long chains of islands, which are, in fact, submarine prolongations of mountain chains extending across the main land. It is, however, not impossible, that in the centre of Africa, there may be lofty table lands like those of Quito, or valleys like that of Cashmeer, where, as in those happy regions, spring holds a perpetual reign.

In regard to the population, as well as its geographical character, Africa naturally divides itself into two great portions, north and south of the mountains of Kong and the Jebel el Komar, which give rise to the waters of the Senegal, the Niger, and the Nile. To the north of this line, Africa is ruled, and partially occupied by foreign races, who have taken possession of all the fertile districts, and driven the aboriginal population into the mountains and deserts of the interior. It is consistent with general experience, that in proportion as civilization extends itself, the aboriginal race of the natives become either extinct, or are driven farther and farther into the interior, where they in time are lost, and swept from the catalogue of the human race. South of this line, we find Africa entirely peopled with the Negro race, who alone seem capable of sustaining the fiery climate, by means of a redundant physical energy scarcely com patible with the full development of the intellectual powers of man.

Central Africa is a region distinguished from all others, by its productions and climate, by the simplicity and yet barbarian magnificence of its states; by the mildness and yet diabolical ferocity of its inhabitants, and peculiarly by the darker nature of its superstitions, and its magical rites, which have struck with awe strangers in all ages, and which present something inexplicable and even appalling to enlightened Europeans ; the evil principle here seems to reign with less of limitation, and in recesses in accessible to white men, still to enchant and delude the natives. The common and characteristic mark of their superstition, is the system of Fetiches, by which an individual appropriates to himself some casual object as divine, and which, with respect to himself, by this process, becomes deified, and exercises a peculiar fatality over his fortune.

The barbarism of Africa, may be attributed in part EARLY AFRICAN DISCOVERIES. 5 to its great fertility, which enables its inhabitants to live without care, but chiefly to its imperviousness to strangers. Every petty state is so surrounded with natural barriers, that it is isolated from the rest, and though it may be overrun and wasted, and part of its inhabitants carried into captivity, it has never been made to form a constituent part of one large consolidated empireand thus smaller states become dependent, without being incorporated. The whole region is still more inaccessible on a grand scale, than the petty states are in miniature ; and while the rest of the earth has become common, from the frequency of visitors, Africa still retains part of the mystery, which hung over the primitive and untrodden world.