Travels and adventures in Eastern Africa, descriptive of the Zoolus ... with a sketch of Natal

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TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN EASTERN AFRICA. -■ ■ < . .' P©]RT II* A I T ©I I ■ H ID. M A I » E L> JI ., A LfuAurL, Publi&hedlyE.Churton, 26 Holies Street TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN EASTERN AFRICA, DESCRIPTIVE OF THE ZOOLUS, THEIR MANNERS, CUSTOMS, etc. etc. WITH & of Natal. BY NATHANIEL ISAACS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON : EDWARD CHURTON, 26, HOLLES STREET. 1836. LONDON: BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTER*. WdtTEPRI \RS. TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES, etc. etc.

Chapter I

After our departure from Natal nothing of moment occurred. Our passage, to be sure, was not a pleasant one, though the weather was far from being unfavourable. We had occasional calms, light, and, now and then, baffling winds. Our crew was not the most orderly, and manifested a disposition to become refractory, but the resolute conduct of Mr. Farewell, and some determination on my part, to suppress any insubordination which might be attempted, brought them to obey, and to see the impropriety of any design they might have of rendering our short voyage painful. It was evident to me that, from the time they had been without control, and from the unlimited com mand they were permitted to have in Natal, in con sequence of the unfortunate and lamentable events VOL. II. e ARRIVj\L AT ALGOA BAY. that had accrued, they assumed a sort of dictatorial power over all matters relative to the sailing of the vessel; but three of them, Nicolls, M'Koy, and the boy John Ross, whose conduct was highly exemplary, resisting all entreaties to join in their opposition, they thought it prudent to submit to the command of those into whose hands the power of directing the vessel had fallen.

We came to anchor in Algoa Bay on the 15th December, and I lost no time in getting on shore to announce the death of Lieutenant King to his anxious and confidential friends, whose solicitude I knew would be great to hear something of the proceedings of our mission, and the result of our subsequent operations. I applied, as I conceived it to be in the regular course of business, to the individual who, on my last visit here with Lieutenant King, seemed to be his most intimate friend, for such advice as my inexperience found abso lutely necessary to carry into effect the instructions of my lamented friend. Mr. Francis (the gentleman alluded to) was at first exceedingly kind, and promised me every indemnification I might require with respect to the effects under my charge ; I therefore relied on his assurances and those of my friend Mr. Chabeaud for everything relating to the affairs of Lieutenant King and myself being arranged satisfactorily.

After this preliminary matter had been concluded, my first object was to prepare a written detail of our proceedings in Natal, and submit it for the perusal and VESSEL SEIZED. 3 information of the colonial government of the Cape, bearing it was the intention of the governor to send a mission to the Zoolas. At this time, to the astonishment of almost every one, our little vessel, the Elizabeth and Susan, built in Natal by the labour of our own hands, and for the purposes of escape from that country, was seized, as it was alleged, for the purpose of securing for her a register, which, under her present character, she could not obtain. The seizing officer was Mr. Francis, who, on our previous visit to Algoa Bay, in her, accompanied by Lieutenant King, not only permitted an entry to the schooner, but allowed her to lie there three months, and depart again for Natal, in company with H. M. S. Helicon, without molestation, or any intimation that a vessel built under such circumstances could not be entitled to a register under the British Registry Act.

She might be said to have been built of British materials, her keel and the greater part of her having been constructed from the wreck of the brig Mary; her upper works only were of materials of Natal growth. But what is more remarkable, on her first trip she obtained a sea-letter from the very officer who, on her return, seized her under the pretence just stated. Mr. Francis, however, with a seeming generosity and good feeling towards the friends of the deceased Lieutenant King, voluntarily assured me, by letter, that he should, as seizing officer, give up his part of such seizure in the event of condemnation; B VESSEL SEIZED. but I have not heard, although the vessel has been sold, of any such generous intention having been realised. The conduct of Mr. Francis subsequently became equivocal, and not in accordance with his previous frank and generous assurances.

I could not perceive the cause of such vacillation, and could only attribute it to the importance of office and to the power which official duties give. I received such manifestations of authority with perfect composure ; they only excited in me a feeling quite the reverse of any thing I could have wished, but, without being contemptuous, I could not help regretting that a man should act so dishonourably from a mercenary motive. He promised me a letter to the Cape, for the purpose of promoting my views there, but it turned out to be merely a promise. I found that he was a man of professions and not of deeds — one liberal in assurances, but dilatory in performances — a sort of wholesale dealer in unredeemed pledges. From my friends Mr. Chabeaud and Mr. Edmund Francis, the nephew of the gentleman of the same name already mentioned, I received that kind attention which made me thankful for their friendship and sympathy ; and I have great gratification in having this opportunity afforded me of showing how highly I estimate their generous feeling towards me in a moment of great perplexity and inconceivable depression.

I proceeded from Port Elizabeth to the Cape of Good Hope, where indisposition overtook me, and I LEAVE THE CAPE FOR ST. HELENA. 5 was strongly advised to go on to St. Helena ; an opportunity presenting itself, I immediately embraced it. Innumerable privations, and the scenes of labour and difficulty in which I had been engaged, had so impaired my constitution, that relaxation was im perative before I could attempt any further operations. I endeavoured to obtain an interview with the colonial government, for the purpose of submitting, for their information, my viva voce testimony and opinions with respect to Natal, thinking that it might be acceptable to those wielding the colonial power ; but I found that my efforts were unavailing ; and the state of my health not allowing me to tarry, I took my departure from the Cape, not, however, before I had called on Lieutenant King's agent, Mr. Thompson, who advised my handing over the effects of the deceased to the Orphan Chamber, which I designed doing, but could not find the agent for that office.

My indisposition increasing, I was necessitated to depart for St. Helena, at which island I arrived on the 5th March, 1829. After some difficulty and much care I recovered my health. The peculiarly fine air of St. Helena was congenial to me, and when I became convales cent, and could avail myself of some little recreation, I rapidly got rid of my debility, and soon recovered my wonted vigour. While residing with my friends on this island, I became accidentally acquainted with an American AN AMERICAN CAPTAIN. captain, who commanded the ship Francis : his name was Williams; he was a shrewd, intelligent, and penetrating man, who sought information from every one and everywhere. He seemed particularly desirous to acquire some knowledge of the eastern coast of Africa ; and ascertaining that I had resided on the coast of Natal, he sought me, and expressed a great wish to gain information respecting that unknown and unfrequented port.

I did not evince any disinclina tion to afford him all the information I could ; I knew the enterprising spirit of the American, that he would, whenever a favourable opening occurred, boldly and adventurously enter, and offer his " notions *; " and that if he once succeeded in bartering his merchan dise with advantage, he w7ould lose no time in making his own government acquainted with the new vent for American enterprise, which would greedily and thankfully receive every possible information that might enable it to extend its commercial intercourse with the eastern world. And I cannot conceal that I felt this desire the greater from the insufferable indifference we met with in the case of Chaka's mission f, at the hands of the Cape authorities, to whom I wished much to submit such information as might have been neither uninteresting nor un acceptable.

I knew, or rather I could perceive, that no information was palatable, or conceived to be of a nature entitled to any favourable consideration, unless • An American sailor's term for his cargo. ■)- Goneral Burke was acting governor. CONDUCT OF CAPE OFFICERS. 7 it emanated from, or was communicated through the instrumentality of officials. This being the case, and as I felt no disposition to make any further effort to lay such information before the Cape government, I did not hesitate to make my American friend acquainted with all the advantages which Natal will, at no distant time, afford to the enterprising adventurer, who may seek to extend his commercial specu lations to that country. Nothing, in my mind, has so particularly exemplified the want of proper attention to the communications of individuals on the part of the government at the Cape of Good Hope, as its perfect indifference to the mission from the Zoola king detailed in the first volume, and the disregard of its functionaries to my several requests to be permitted to submit my communications personally on the subject of the country under the dominion of that chief.

It is one of those unfortunate weaknesses so prevalent at all our colonial establishments, and evinces a want of discernment and true spirit for extending the commerce of the country, for the interests of which those establishments have been mainly created. No spot, no part of the coast, from the Cape to the Straits of Babelmandel, offers a more eligible surface for colonization ; its local advantages present objects that cannot fail to convince the visiter that Natal may be converted into a colony ; of the success of which, either from the culture of the soil, or from an interior commercial intercourse with the VIEWS OF COMMERCE. natives, not the shadow of a doubt can be entertained. The work of preparing the natives for such an inter course has been begun. Europeans who have been accidentally cast upon its coasts have laid the foundation for a barter traffic ; upon this an enterprising society might construct an edifice, by which the commerce of Great Britain would acquire an extensive addition to her power, and the manufactures of her people receive an augmented demand by the additional vent which this newly discovered source so admirably furnishes.

I am not sanguine enough to expect that any thing I shall advance in the way of opinion respecting Natal w7ill meet with a favourable reception, because it may be thought that, as a traveller in that country, I have made glossy and exaggerated statements for an interested purpose; or that I am anxious to induce the credulous speculator to adventure thither from mercenary objects, which I have not thought advis able to detail. I can assure my readers I have no such designs. I am actuated solely by a wish to point out such sources for enterprise, as I have had practical demonstration of being likely to reward those who may engage in any speculative under taking to the country to which my details refer. No country, I think, can hold out a finer site for coloniza tion, or for a factory for British residents, as the people have become familiarised to Europeans — as they have lost their savage leader, Chaka, and have now a ruler who has begun to govern with judgment, and to VIEWS OF COMMERCE. 9 exercise his power with discretion.

Fie has also expressed his great anxiety for the residence of white people in his dominions, whom he pledges himself to encourage and protect. He likewise offers to pro mote an intercourse with the interior tribes, which must be advantageous and stimulating to those wdio may engage in it. I would not, however, be thought to hold out imaginary inducements to mislead the credulous, or make highly-coloured statements to entrap the unwary. I should regret exceedingly if I found that my humble details in the least actuated any persons to emigrate to Natal who rested their whole hope on that which I have submitted. I should rather they would seek other information, and give me their approbation if they find I am deserving of it. My American friend felt much pleased with the communications I made to him on the subject of com merce in Eastern Africa, and determined upon pro ceeding on another voyage direct to the Mosambique coast, where he anticipated a favourable result in the disposal of his " notions."

Circumstances of no very pleasing nature led my valued relative to think of retiring from St. Helena, and either of proceeding to the Cape, or to the Mauri tius. He proposed that I should go to the Cape by the first conveyance that might offer. A schooner belong ing to the East India Company was the first vessel, but the pride of the Company's officer made him refuse me a passage. H. M.S. Espoir arriving, comb SAIL FROM ST. HELENA. manded by Captain Greville, a British officer and a gentleman, who soared above the bttleness of the Company's skipper, did me the honour to offer me a passage. Just, however, as I was preparing to avail myself of this kindness, an American brig arrived, commanded by Captain Page, with a cargo destined for the island, with the exception of a small part, with which he proposed proceeding to Natal.

This was a most fortunate event ; it was what I fondly looked for. Captain Page being anxious to avail himself of my knowledge of the country and the people, he made me a liberal offer to accompany him in the capacity of supercargo, to which I cheerfully assented. I had nothing to detain me ; my affairs had all been previously arranged, and my engagements settled. The vessel was soon dis charged, and such things taken in, in addition to those she had brought, as we required, and we weighed anchor on the 18th February, 1830. Our voyage was pleasant. On the 2nd March I let a pigeon fly having taken some on board with me for the purpose of propagation in Natal), but it returned at sunset. On the 3rd I sent off another, which dike the dove of the Patriarch, "returned not again unto us any more."

We concluded, however, that we w7ere too far from land for the bird to reach the shore ; there fore, in all probability, it would fly until exhausted, and then sink into the sea. I regretted the experiment, but bad anticipated that, like the first, it would SEAMAN TAKEN BY A SHARK. have returned. We stood in for the land, having fallen in with several vessels, among them the Upton Castle, Captain Thacker, bound for Table Bay; the Cap tain and four passengers came on board of us, and took each a glass of wine. From the 18th to the 30th, the weather was squally, with rain. On the 30th we found ourselves by observation, lat. 29°. 27' ; made all sail with a light easterly breeze, and at sunset came to between the Bluff Point and the river Umgani, in ten fathoms, with a coarse sandy bottom. 31st March. — Light airs and pleasant weather; made preparations for running into port.

Tipped the vessel to bring her on an even keel, and took all our reefs out, but as there was not sufficient wind to depend on at high water, Captain Page, accompanied by his second officer and three of the crew, proceeded to the bar for the purpose of sounding ; at 10 a.m. they left the vessel; as they approached their object, I could perceive that one of the party was in the act of heaving the lead. For a moment afterwards, I lost sight of the boat, which, from a wave having caught her under her quarter, had capsized, but she soon arose on the surface of the water keel upwards. The captain and mate had succeeded in reaching her, and were clinging to the keel, and two seamen successively reached her also, while the other unfortunate fellow was caught by a shark, which seized him by his body, and the last his messmates saw of him were his hands above water, but he soon disappeared altogether.

A PORTUGUESE SLAVE VESSEL. The people on shore approached the water's edge, and proceeded slowly along, until they were oppo site to our brig, when we could perceive them pull the boat up, and make her fast to some temporary mooring. All hands after this having disappeared for about two hours, I was in some apprehension, but soon recovered from it by seeing five white persons come forward to show themselves, and as they stood conspi cuously on a sand-hill, I concluded they were our friends, and safe. April 1. — This morning I could distinctly perceive the boat receding from the shore, and she soon arrived alongside of our vessel : they brought with them a Portuguese seaman, one of the crew of a Portuguese sloop called the African Adventurer, of about 120 tons burthen, wrecked in January previously.

It appears that this vessel had sailed last from Sofala, laden with slaves, and bound for Mosambique ; the weather had been hazy, and an adverse current had occa sioned their losing course. The first land they descried was that in the vicinity of Natal. As the passage from Sofala to Mosambique is only two days, and they had been out nearly three weeks at sea, they were entirely out of provisions, and had been eight days without water ! A number of the slaves had died, and a great many had been throwm overboard, to shorten that term of misery to which they were doomed. Out of one hundred and sixty slaves, with whom they left GENEROUS CONDUCT OF DINGAN. Sofala, only thirty landed at Natal ! ! Such a recital of human suffering, from the detestable custom of sla very, is enough to melt the mind to pity ; whilst on the other hand it excites horror, that such an execrable traffic should be permitted to be carried on by a nation which might be immediately annihilated by the British power.

The few who had escaped the dreadful suffering of starvation, were in such a state of exhaustion, that, although the boat was sent over the bar for water, they ran the vessel on shore, without waiting to see what the boat could obtain. There were several passengers on board, amongst whom was the wife of the commandant. She was a very delicate woman ; the Portuguese left her to herself, and even deprived her of a few trinkets she wanted to purchase a few necessaries. Mr. Fynn, however, with his accustomed hospitality and generous sympathy, provided for the passengers and crew during their stay at Natal (upwards of a month), and then supplied the lady with a pack bullock, and the party with an escort to Dingan's kraal, to which his brother was sent to accompany them. Dingan consulted Mr. Fynn how he should act tow-ards them, observing that they were not King George's people ; but he was told they were the same, and that King George would be glad to learn he had treated them well.

" Oh ! " said the king, "then I will do with them as you please ;" and at once gave them an escort to the Portuguese settle- GENEROUS CONDUCT OF DINGAN. ment at Delagoa Bay, at the same time presenting to them several head of cattle. The Portuguese, to show their gratitude, had all their baggage brought before him, and desired him to take what he pleased ; but the monarch, with a feeling that did honour to human nature, said, " No, your vessel is lost, and you have been unfortunate ; I cannot think of taking anything from you." This is an instance of the beneficial effect of the intercourse of Europeans with the natives of Zoola, who, from a state of savage ferocity, appear, by the conduct of their monarch, to have made some advances tow7ards civilization. It being now flood-tide, and a light breeze spring ing up, we weighed anchor and ran our brig into port.

There were only ten feet water on the bar, but she went over (touching gently) with the assistance of the sea that always sets over the bar. We then rounded the point and anchored abreast of the sand hills, when John Cane, Henry Ogle, and Thomas Holstead, who belonged to the European party, came on board. My faithful native boy Naso ponga, whom I left at the kraal, came, with a great number of bis companions, to see me. The meeting was agreeable, but I soon learnt that they had been quarrelling and had separated, some having joined Mr. Fynn, some the tribe of Cayles, and the rest had continued wdth Ogle. The brother of Mr. Fynn arrived at noon to ascertain what vessel had so unexpectedly touched MR. FAREWELL AT CATOE's. 15 at the port, and was greatly surprised to see me, as he had heard I was dead.

This report I attributed to Mr. Farewell, who, conjecturing that I contemplated returning to Natal to erect a factory, on reaching the country of the Amanpontoes, told a Zoola chief that I was dead, hoping the latter might report it at Natal, and thus disappointing Mr. Fynn and the natives, induce the latter to join him. How ever Mr. Farewell never more reached Natal. Being invited by Catoe, a chief who had revolted from the Zoolas, to visit him, under the expectation of obtaining a quantity of ivory, he accepted the invitation, and set out (accompanied by a Mr. Walker, and a Mr. Thackwray) much against the w7ish of the natives. They took with them a present for the chief, and on their arrival were kindly treated, after the usual manner of the people, with a supply of cattle to kill for their sustenance.

They passed the even ing in conversation with Catoe, who wished Mr. Farewell to remain with him, but he obstinately persisted in proceeding to the residence of Dingan, thus evincing a partiality for one rival chief in the presence of another. The enraged Catoe, jealous of the distinction in favour of his enemy, and envious of the supposed advantages which the latter might derive from Mr. Farewell, ordered his best regiment to sur round him and his party in the dead of night, as they were reposing in their tent. They first cut all the ropes of the tent unheard, and being entangled in the drapery, Mr. Farewell and his companions were speared and mutilated in a most inhuman manner. The murderers then proceeded to plunder the wag gon, taking from it their oxen and everything it contained, as well as the presents designed for Din gan, and what the unfortunate persons had intended for their own use.

It is inconceivable how Mr. Farewell, a person so conversant with the characters of the native chiefs, should have shown so little discretion as not to have gratified Catoe by halting for the night, instead of obstinately persisting in proceeding onwards to visit the very man to whom the chief had avowed the most implacable hatred. To persist, when within the grasp of the savage, was fatal ; to have con versed with him on the necessity of proceeding the next morning, would have been judicious; and he might have accomplished, by skill and ingenuity, what he never could obtain by resistance from a savage, insensible to the feelings of aught but rapa city and violence. Mr. Farewell knew perfectly well that the infamous Catoe had imbibed all the ferocious propensities of his master (Chaka), to whom he was only inferior in power, and quite his equal in every inhuman practice.

Catoe had been one of the principal chiefs or captains of Chaka, and had run through a career of the greatest enormities under the reign of that despot. At the fall of his master, he refused to acknowledge Dingan ; but revolted from his country, the Zoolas, taking with him about five thousand followers, and proceeded at the bead of them to the vicinity of the Amanpontoes, carrying on a sort of predatory warfare against that tribe and the Zoolas, committing rapine and murder wherever he could successfully perpe trate them. The followers of Catoe, now the Ama quabi tribe, after their chief had sought permission to settle in the territories of Fakoo, king of the Amanpontoes, and had met with a repulsive reply, became the most insatiable and implacable enemies of that nation, as well as of the Zoolas, defeating both of these powers successively in several conflicts, and displaying a spirit for war nowise inferior to the Zoolas under the despot Chaka in his most prospe rous days.

The author of Caffrarian Researches, whose mission was to the country of the Amanpontoes, speaks of this melancholy event in detail. He says, alluding to Mr. Farewell and his party: — "From Amadolo, this company proceeded to the residence of Fakoo, on the 26th of August, intending afterwards to visit the encampment of Quetoo*, whom Mr. Farewell knew while at Port Natal. Respecting this part of their design, the Umponedo chief warmly remonstrated w7ith them, and represented it as an extremely perilous measure, that might not only endanger the lives of the party, but likewise involve them in Catoe. great trouble. Not being disposed, however, duly to consider either Fakoo's argument or recents events, and having received a message informing them that the Amaquabi had numbers of elephants' tusks which they wished to dispose of, they resolved on carrying their plans into effect at all hazards.

Hence, after travelling with their w7aggons until within twenty or thirty miles of the place, Messrs. Farewell, Walker, and Thackwray, attended by interpreters, &c, went forward on horseback. Quetoo received them with apparent kindness, ordered a beeve to be slaughtered for their use, and gave them various other tokens of friendship. Scarcely, however, had night-shade fallen, before his mien greatly altered, as did that of his attendants also; for both words and actions then assumed an air of hostility. This was sufficiently manifest to our travellers themselves, but more especially to the interpreters, who repeatedly hinted that the aspect of things was indicative of evil. The chief seems to have signified a wash to prevent their pro cedure to Natal, being, probably, fearful that they might render Dingan assistance against him.

After informing them of the wound he had received from the gun of a white man, Lochenburg,s horses were brought and exhibited in triumph ; and in their rage, the savage throng cruelly goaded and most barbarously treated the poor animals, as if to annoy their visiters, or induce them to say something on which a quarrel might be grounded. Messrs, Thackwray and Walker now became considerably uneasy ; but Mr. Farewell was still unwilling to believe that their host would venture to do them any personal injury. " Their fears being somewhat quieted, and the natives having retired, they laid down to sleep, and all remained tranquil until near dawn of day the following morning. Their tent was then suddenly surrounded, and all three horribly massacred, together with five of their native servants who slept in a hut hard by !

Three only escaped to tell the dreadful tale; and one of these was obliged desperately to fight his way through, in doing which he shot three of the barbarians, and received one or two slight wounds himself. The ruffians then set off to plunder the waggons, which they knew to be not far distant. On seeing them advance, the people in charge, both English and Hottentots, immediately fled into the woods, so that there was no further obstacle in their way. The draught oxen, thirty or forty in number, constituted the first object, and having secured these, they next ransacked the waggons completely. Here they found several thousand pounds of beads, which to them were, of course, more precious than gold ; and likewise quantities of clothing, wherewith they dressed themselves as well as they were able.

Ten or twelve horses also fell into their hands, together with several guns belonging to the party. Thus laden, they returned without doing any injury what ever to the waggons, or so much as attempting to MISSIONARIES THREATENED. pursue the survivors. These, after remaining in the forests until their way out became quite clear, hastened back again to Morley, whence the intelligence of their misfortunes was first received in the colony *." The melancholy catastrophe which befel Mr. F. and his party seems, according to Mr. Kay's account, to have been followed up by the savage Catoe, by an attack on the missionary station, when the family were placed in a most perilous situation; providentially, however, they were aided by the presence of some traders, who, with the male part of the mission, took up a position round the premises, and presented an attitude of defence.

It is to be lamented that the unfortunate Mr. F. displayed that impetuosity of temper and resistless spirit of opposition on this occasion, for which he was always remarkable ; for his knowledge of Catoe, and the fact of this chief being in open revolt against his native tribe, and his having taken up an offensive war against the Amanpontoes, ought to have induced him to pause before he made any advance towards the rebel, whom he knew7 must be aware that his object was not to manifest his friendship, but to seek protection in the country of his friend Dingan, to whom he was proceeding, to compliment him on his elevation to the throne of the Zoolas. * Kay's Caffrarian Researches, part '2, ch. 15, page 386, MR. FAREWELL. 21 Had he been less perverse and more wary, he might not have fallen thus untimely, but " he had not apprehension " Of roaring terrors;" and was resolute to a fault.