A narrative of the Voyages ... of Capt. Beechey ... to the Pacific and Behring's Straits, performed in ... 1825, 26, 27, and 28 ... and of Capt. Back, to the Thlew-ee-Chola River and the Arctic Sea ... Compiled ... by R. H

Front matter

M 5j|?)p A* >m ///>/,< <y /;,//£. M^ //M ' // // >v/- . /MM -'i/vv arte/Slte/Pr <■ >£/«/. ■(-. y^yy^^c compiled by -M^ - y 1836. A NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGES AND TRAVELS OF CAPTAIN BEECHEY, R.N. F.R.S. &c, TO THE PACIFIC AND BEHRING'S STRAITS ; PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1825, 26, 27 and 28. Foil THE PlsBPOSE OF Co-OPEBATING WITH THE EXPEDITIONS UNDER CAPTAINS Passy and Feanklin. AND OF CAPTAIN BACK, R.N., TO THE THLEW-EE-CHOH RIVER & THE ARCTIC SEA, 3£n Seattft al the tffpeVitimi uirtev -tnpt, 3, &u<#, 3&.X. BEING THE CONCLUSION OF THE SERIES OF VOYAGES INSTITUTED FOR THE DISCOVERY OF THE UMTH WEST PASSAGE, Compiled from Original and Authenticated Documents, BY ROBERT HUISH, Esq. F.L.A.& Z. Soc. TRANSLATOR OF THE "MORNING DEVOTIONS," AND THE "CONTEMPLATIONS ON THE SUFFERINGS OF CHRIST," BY C. C. STURM ; AND AUTHOR OF SEVERAL POFULAR WORKS. L®[^®®[^ g Ponltd by W, Hill, 49, Kiinhampton-tt. Clertei PUBLISHED BY W. WRIGHT, 13, Si. GEORGE'S ROAD, SOUTHWARK.

Introduction

. From the earliest records of history, England has stood the foremost amongst the civilized nations of the world, for the spirit of maritime discovery. By the noble and unquenchable ardour, which has animated the breasts of our compatriots, the hitherto untrodden Deserts of Interior Africa have been explored ; and whilst a Lander and a Clapperton have braved every peril under a tropical clime, a Parry, a Ross, a Frank lin, a Beechey, and a Back have encountered the eternal snows of the uninhabited regions of the north; by their con centrated efforts they have extended the boundaries of our geographical knowledge, and raised the honour and repu tation of the British name amongst the civilized nations of the world. Greatly does it redound to the honour of the government of this country, that it has always been the foremost amongst the maritime nations of Europe in encouraging the spirit of discovery ; and in no instance has that spirit been more fully exemplified, than in the various expeditions which have been fitted out for the Discovery of the North West Passage.

For the purpose, however, of completing the series of those voyages, and giving the whole extent. of the discoveries in all their respective bearings and relations, the publication of Beechey's Voyage to the Pacific and to Behring's Straits, for the purpose of co-operating with the expeditions under Captains Parry and Franklin, will be found an invalu able acquisition. Some of the countries, which he visited are as yet but little known to Europeans ; for whatever discoveries may have been made in that quarter of the globe

INTRODUCTION.

. by the Russians, they have been studiously concealed from a grovelling spirit of jealousy, that the enterprise and per severance of the English merchants might lead them to form those settlements on the north western coast of America, which might ultimately lead to the destruction of one of the most valuable branches of Russian commerce. Although the expedition of Captain Beechey was virtually fitted out for active co-operation with the intrepid Parry and Franklin, yet with it was combined a general plan of exploring those countries of the northern Pacific, which are as yet imperfectly known to us. This department of the work will, therefore, be found replete with interest and amusement. We are in troduced to the manners and habits of people whose names are scarcely familiar to us, whilst our previous stock of know ledge is enriched with the history of countries and their natural productions, which contributes not a little to the completion of the cosmography of the globe.

Of Captain Back's Travels it may be confidently stated, that it will be impossible to rise from the perusal of them, without being struck with astonishment at the extent of sufferings which the human frame can endure, and at the same time the wondrous display of fortitude which was ex hibited under circumstances of so appalling a nature, as to invest the narrative with the character of a romantic fiction, rather than an unexaggerated tale of actual reality. He, however, suffered not despair nor despondency to overcome him, but gallantly and undauntedly pursued his course, until he returned to his native land to add to the number of those noble spirits, whose names will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments to the country which gave them birth. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Page I. Proposed Expedition to co-operate with Sir John Franklin. Instructions from the Admiralty.

Chapter II

Page 7. Captain Beechey sails from England. — Arrival at Teneriffe. Sails from Santa Cruz. Arrival in the River Plate. Visit to the Carcovado. Rio Janeiro. Falls of Tajuca. Sails from Rio Janeiro. Arrival at the~Falkland Islands. Passage round Cape Horn. Terra del Fuego. Island of Mocha. Taleuhuana. The Town of Conception. Inhabitants of Conception. Arrival at Valparaiso. Visit to Governor Zenteno. Departure from Chili. Sala-y Gomez. Easter Island. Natives of Easter Island. Their Customs.

Chapter III

Page 83. Departure from Easter Island. Arrival at Ducie Island. Elizabeth Island. Pitcairn Island. First Interview with old Adams. Mutiny of the Bounty. Christian's Account of it. Fate of the Conspirators. Captain Beechey's Reception by Adams. Manners of the Inhabitants of Pitcairn Island. Their Removal to Otaheite. Their return to Pitcairn. Departure of the Blossom from the Island.

Chapter IV

Page 135. Gambier's Group. Coral Islands. Natural History of the Coral Insect. Captain Kotzebue's Account of the Coral Islands. Crescent Island. Duff's Mountain. Desperate Affray with the Natives ofthe Gambier Islands. Visit of one of the Natives to the Blossom. Custom of the Natives. Method of Tattooing. Mode of Salutation. Pilfering Disposition of the Natives. The Obstructions given by them to the Watering Party. Names given by Captain Beechey to the different Islands. Visit of Lieutenant Belcher to a Morai. Visit to the Areghe. His Fraudulent Conduct.

Chapter V

Page 172. Departure from Gambier Islands. Hood's Island. Clermont Tonnerre. Serle Island. Natives of Serle Island. Queen Charlotte's Island. Lagoon Island. Description of the Natives. Egmont Island. Barrow Island. Doubts respecting Osnaburg Island. Named Cockburn Island by Captain Beechey. Byam Martin Island. Tuwarri and his family taken on board the Blossom. The Natives of Byam Martin's Island supposed to be Christians. Bow Island. Adventures of Tuwarri. Fall in with the English ship. Dart. Captain Beechey's Introduction to the Chief. Character of the Natives. Melville and and Croker Islands. Interesting Account of the Peopling of the Polynesian Islands. The Origin of the Inhabitants. Their Traditions.

Chapter VI

Page 231. Arrival at Otaheite. Former Condition of the'^Natives. Their Amusements abolished by the Missionaries. Ludicrous Account of the Dresses of the Otaheiteans on a Sunday. Mr. Nott, the Missionary. Missionary Church at Otaheite. Conduct of the Congregation. Visit of the Royal Family to the Ship. Etiquette of thc Queen. Plunder o( the Dragoon Pearl Ship. Visit CONTENTS. IV of Captain Beechey to the Queen. Liberal Conduct of Hottotc. Trial of a Thief. Their Mode of Punishment. Superstitions of the Natives. Captain Beechey's Tour in the Interior. Customs ofthe Islanders. Curious Method of Shaving. Dress Making and Straw Bonnet Making. Arrival ofa Whaler from New Zealand. Exhibition of the War Dance by some of the New Zea landers. Conduct of the Missionaries. The Laws of Otaheite.

Chapter VII

Pape 289. Departure from Otaheite. Island of Tithowa. Sandwich Islands. Arrival at Owhyhee. Character of the Natives. Their Mode of Religion. Marriage at Owhyhee by Mr. Bingham. First Landing of the Missionaries. Visit of King Tamehameha and his Queen to England. Their Death. Their Bodies Conveyed to Oivhyhee by Lord Byron, in the Blonde Frigate. The Funeral Procession and Ceremonies.

Chapter VIII

Page 315. Difference between Otaheite and Owhyhee. Visit of Karaimoku to Captain Beechey. Drinking Propensity of the Natives. The Woahoo Dance. Visit of Captain Beechey to Karaimoku. Commerce of the Americans. Death of Captain Cook.

Chapter IX

Page 322. Departure from Woahoo. Arrival at Oneehow. Superstitions of the Natives. Their Opinion of Books. Curious Custom of the Natives. Their Funerals. Removal of the Taboo Games and Pastimes at Oneehow. Departure from the Sandivich Islands. Fall in with the Tuscan, Whale Ship. Arrival at Kamtschatka. Town of Petrapaulski. Despatches received by Captain Beechey. I Description of Petrapaulski. Monument to Captain Clarke. St. Peter and St. Paul. Natives of Kamtschatka. Departure from Petrapaulski. First Meeting with the Esquimaux. Behring's Island. Interview with the Esquimaux. The Diomede Islands. Schismareff Inlet. Lip Ornaments of the Esquimaux. Kotzebue Sound. Chamiso Island. Visit from the Natives. Description of Chamiso Island. Voyage of Kotzebue. Curious Formation of Ice in Eschscholtz Bay.

Chapter X

— -Page 378. Departure from Chamiso Island. Meeting with the Natives. Their Customs, Manners, and Amusements. Their general Character. An Esquimaux Village. Signals erected for Captain Franklin. Icy Cape. Return to : Chamiso Island. Interview with the Esquimaux. Their Cheating Disposition. Visit of Captain Beechey to the Esquimaux Encampment. Exhibition of their Dances. Return of Mr. Elson with the Barge.

Chapter XI

Page 405. Departure from Kotzebue Sound. Islands of St. Paul and St. George. Visit to the Former. Discovery of some Earth Huts. Sea Bears. Their Natural History. Visit a Russian Colony. Discovery of the Islands, St. Paul and St. George. Productions of the Islands. Immense Flocks of Sea Birds. Coolgalga. Oonemak. Enter the Pacific.

Chapter XII

Page 415. Anchor off Yerba Buena. Visit of Captain Beechey to Don Ignacio Martinez. Description of St. Francisco. The Missions. Indians of St. Francisco. Fights between Bulls and Bears. Conduct of the Missionaries of St. Francisco. Mock Fights of the Natives. Their Games. Journey of Messrs. Collier, Marsh, and Evans to Monterey. Santa Clara. Mission of San Juan. Return to San Francisco. CONTENTS. V

Chapter XIII

Page 450. Departure from San Francisco. Character of the Natives of California. Arrival at Monterey. Description of Monterey. Invitation of the Padres of San Carlos to Captain Beechey. Singular Ceremonies. Hutof the Indians. Their Manners.

Chapter XIV

Page 461. Arrival at the Sandwich Islands. Entertainment given to Captain Beechey. The Town of Honoruru. Departure from the Sandwich Islands. Arrival in China. Not Admitted to Stop. Singular Order of the Hoppo. Departure from China. South Bashee Islands. Arrival off Loo-choo. Visit of the Natives. Anchor off the Town of Napakiang.

Chapter XV

Page 474. Friendly Conduct of the Loo-chooans. Curious Dialogue between Captain Beechey and Anyah. Visit of the Mandarin. Permission given to the Sick to Land. Conduct of the Natives towards them. Visit to the Sepulchres at Loo-choo. Second Visit of the Mandarin. Invitation to Captain Beechey to dine at Potsoong. Singular Customs. Departure.

Chapter XVI

Page 489. Bonin Islands. Port Lloyd. Arrival at Kamtschatka. Chamiso Island. Cape Krusenstern. Strait of Tokshook. Enter Kotzebue Sound. Hotham Inlet. Hostile Disposition of the Natives. Fatal Affray with them. Preparations for return to England. Departure from Behring's Straits. Arrival in Mexico. San Bias. Acapulco. Arrival at Rio Janeiro. Arrival at Woolwich. CAPTAIN BACK'S TRAVELS.

Chapter I

Page 509. Proposed Expedition in Search of Captain Ross. Meeting in Regent Street. Appointment of Captain Back. Proposed Subscriptions. Appointment of Committee. Route laid down. Instructions from the Colonial Office. Departure of Captain Back. Arrival at Montreal. Enter the Ottawa. Arrival at Sault St. Marie. Fort William. Falls of Kakabikka. Lac de la Pluie. Fort Alexander. Lake Winnipeek. Departure from Fort Alexander. Red River. Arrival at Norway House. The Grand Rapid. Cedar Lake. History of Tanner. Arrival at Cumberland House. Character of the Indians. Their Religious Ceremonies. Keepoochikawn.

Chapter II

— -Page 570. Departure from Cumberland House. Arrival at Isle a la Crosse. Enter Buffalo Lake. Arrival at Portage a la Loche. Meeting with Mr. Stuart and Mr. Mc'Leod. Arrival at Fort Chippewyan. Manners of the Chippewyan Indians.

Chapter III

Page 586. Departure from Fort Chippewyan. Pelican Portage. The Slave Lake Indians. Arrival at Fort Resolution. Departure of Captain Back in Search of the CONTENTS. VI Thlew-ee-choh. Chubilka. Encampment of Indians. La Petite Riviere. Simpson's Group. Singular Trait of the Indian Character. The Mountain. Rock Point River.

Chapter IV

Page 600. Hoar Frost River. Obstacles to further Progress. Annoyance by Musquitoes. Cook's Lake. Desertion of two Indian Boys. Erroneous Opinion of Manfelly. The Sand Hill. Source of the Thlew-ee-choh. Musk Ox Lake. Akaitcho. Anecdote of thc Rat and the Beaver. River Ah-hel-dessy. View of the Slave Lake. Meeting with Mr. Mc'Leod.

Chapter V

Page 622. Attacked by Sand Flies. Winter Quarters. Visit from thc Indians. Arrival of two Hunters. Sufferings of the Indians. Critical Situation of Captain Back. Extreme Cold. Arrival of Mr. Mc'Leod. Account of Pepper, the Indian.

Chapter VI

Page 635. Departure of Mr. Mc'Leod and Family. Construction of the Boats. Arrival of a Messenger from York Factory with the Intelligence of Captain Ross's Return. Death of Augustus. Leave their Winter Quarters.

Chapter VII

Page 641. Arrival at Artillery Lake. Encampment on a Winter's Night. Clinton cold Lake. Return of two Runaway Indians. Encampment of Indians. Lake Aylmer. Meeting with Mr. Mc'Leod. Musk Ox Rapid. Stock of Provisions. Interview with the Esquimaux. Green Stockings. Akaitcho and his Son. Dangerous Rapid. Beechey Lake. Obstruction by the Ice. Lake Garry. Succession of Rapids. Noble Conduct of Me' Kay. Mount Meadowbank. Hostile Disposition of the Esquimaux. Princess Victoria Headland.

Chapter VIII

Page 294. Depressed Spirits of the Men. Meeting of the Esquimaux. Accident to the Boat. Arrival at Escape Rapid. Sinclair's Falls. Lake Garry. Meeting with the Esquimaux. The Conjuror of the Tribe. Accident on the Hawk Rapid. Pass Bailie's River. Encampment at Musk Ox Rapid. Meeting with Mr. Mc'Leod. Visited by the Yellow Knives. Interview with the Esquimaux. Arrival at Ah-hel-dessy. Relinquishment of the Boat. Parry's Falls. Arrival at Fort Reliance. Amusements on New Year's Day. Preparations for Return. Arrival at Norway House. Departure for Montreal. The Santeaux Indians. Mission of Sault St. Marie. Return to, and Arrival in England. A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC AND BEHRING'S STRAITS, FOR THE PURPOSE OF CO-OPERATING WITH THE EXPEDITIONS UNDER CAPTAINS PARRY AND FRANKLIN, FOR TIIE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH WEST PASSAGE.

Chapter I

There is not any subject, connected with the geography of the globe, which has more intensely excited the attention of the government of this country, than the Discovery of the North West Passage. Many grand attempts have been made by sea and land to ascertain the existence of it, and although each of those attempts has failed in accomplishing the object in view, yet a considerable addition has been made to our previous knowledge of the geography of the polar regions, at the same time, that the general suspicions have been con firmed that those insurmountable difficulties present them selves in establishing a communication between the two seas, which appear to set the question of the existence of a North West Passage at rest for ever. It must be admitted that breaking through the western shore of Baffin's Bay, which was first accomplished by Cap tain Parry, was one of the most important features of the various expeditions which have been fitted out by this country, as it might be said first to have opened the gates to the 1.

B beechey's voyage to the 2 North West Passage, if any such did exist, and all the polar navigators agree, that if it ever be discovered, it will be through the inlet called Lancaster Sound. It was the firm opinion of Captain Parry, whose persevering efforts have deservedly gained him the flattering approbation of his country, that the plan which presented the greatest probability of success, was to penetrate up Lancaster Sound, and thence into Prince Regent's Inlet, it having unquestionably been ascertained by him, that a passage did not exist beyond Melville Island. The last voyage of Captain Sir John Ross, has decided the point that Prince Regent's Inlet has, in fact, no outlet, and therefore, all future navigators, who might attempt the solu tion of the great geographical problem, would be obliged to proceed by a route, which has never yet been attempted ; but as no other passage to the westward from Baffin's Bay is known than Lancaster Sound, the hope of ultimately succeeding in the attempt rests on very slender ground.

Influenced by the representations which Captain Parry made of the possibility of the passage being discovered by Prince Regent's Inlet, government determined to fit out an expedition, entrusting the command of it to that gallant officer, who proceeded accordingly in the Fury and the Hecla, the particulars of which voyage have been already given in a former volume of this series. With that noble ardour which characterizes the British officer, Captain Franklin, undaunted by the sufferings, which he had endured on his former travels, determined to connect his discoveries at the mouth of the Coppermine River with the furthest known point on the western side of America, at the same time the British government determined to send an expedition to Behring's Straits, to co-operate with the expe ditions of Parry and Franklin, with the flattering expectation that the three commanders might meet in the northern seas, from which two essential advantages might be derived, namely, the supply of provisions and other articles to Captain Parry, who might be destitute of them ; and secondly, the providing a conveyance for Captain Franklin and his party TACIF1C AND BEIIRINg's STRAITS. 3 to Europe, of which, in those desolate regions, they might be utterly deprived.

The vessel selected for the expedition was the Blossom, of twenty-six guns, the command of which was entrusted to Captain Beechey, an officer of the highest talent, who had already performed great services to the country, in the survey ing of different parts of the globe, and who, as a hydrogra pher, stood pre-eminently skilful. On the 19th May, the ship being in complete readiness to proceed on her voyage, the following instructions were delivered to Captain Beechey by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. " Whereas it is our intention that his majesty's sloop, Blossom, under your command, should be in Behring's Straits in the autumn of 1826, and contingently, in that of 1827, for the purpose of affording such assistance as may be required, either by Captain Parry or Captain Franklin, should one or both of those officers make their appearance in that quarter ; you are hereby required and directed to put to sea in the said sloop, as soon as in every respect ready, and ob serve the following instructions for your guidance : " You are to proceed with all possible expedition to Rio Janeiro, where you are to complete your provisions, and water, after which you are to make the best of your way round Cape Horn, and endeavour to make Easter Island, from whence you are to take your departure, steering for the Society Islands, and passing near the spot where Gomez Island appears in the chart, in order to ascertain whether such island has any existence, and in like manner, whether Ducie's and Elizabeth Islands be not one and the same.

You wili then proceed to Pitcairn's Island at the south-eastern extremity of the group of the Society Islands, or as they are sometimes called, the Georgean Islands, where you will com mence a survey of this group, proceeding north-westerly to Otaheite. In the execution of this survey it may be found most advisable to anchor, if practicable, every evening under one of the islands, in order that the situation of the ship may beechey's vo\age to the 4 by these means be more secure, and that you may be certain that none of them are passed by you unobserved. If, how ever, you should experience any difficulty in pursuing the route herein pointed out from the prevailing winds, you will make the best of your way to Otaheite, and proceed from thence in your survey to Pitcairn's Island. "During your stay among these or any other of the islands of the Pacific, which you may visit, you are to use every possible endeavour to preserve an amicable intercourse with the natives, and to caution your officers and ship's company to avoid giving offence, or engaging in disputes with them, and you are to shew them on all occasions, every act of kindness that may be in your power; taking care that when any purchases, by barter or otherwise, are made, an officer of the ship may always be present to prevent disputes, and you are particularly to impress on the minds of your officers and men, the necessity of being extremely guarded in their intercourse with the females of those places, so as to avoid exciting the jealousy of the men.

" Having completed the survey of this group of islands, if you find that your time will admit of it, you are to direct your course to the Navigator's Islands, settling in your way thither the true position of Suwarrow's Islands, from whence in your progress to the northward, you will touch at Owhyhee, to deliver the despatches and packages, addressed by the foreign office for his majesty's consul at that island, and to procure refreshments and water. "You are, however, to be particularly careful not to pro long your stay at any of those islands, so as to retard your arrival at the appointed rendezvous in Behring's Straits, later than the 10th July 1826, which period, together with the rendezvous, has been fixed by Captain Franklin and your self by a memorandum, and we desire and direct you to pay particular attention to the various matters contained therein.

" You are to remain at the said appointed rendezvous until the end of October, or to as late a period as the season will admit, without incurring the risk of being obliged to winter there, provided you shall hear nothing of Captain Franklin or his party, but in the event of his joining, you are to receive him and his party on board, and convey him either to Kamtschatka, the Sandwich Islands, Panama, or to China, as he may determine, in order to procure a further conveyance to England. If, however, you should receive certain intelligence of Captain Parry having passed through Behring's Straits into the Pacific, you are in that case to proceed with the Blossom round Cape Horn, and bring Cap tain Franklin and his party to England, touching at Callao, and such other ports on the western coast of South America, as you may deem proper for refreshments, intelligence, &c. " In the former event, namely, of your leaving Behring's Straits with Captain Franklin, but without having obtained any intelligence of Captain Parry, you are to complete your water and provisions at the place to which you convey Cap tain Franklin, or in the event of your hearing nothing either of Captains Franklin or Parr)', previously to the season oblig ing you to leave Behring's Straits in 1826, you are to proceed to such place as you may deem most eligible and convenient for completing your provisions and water ; taking care in either of the last-mentioned cases, to be again in Behring's Straits by the 1st August 1827, calling again on your way thither at Owhyhee, at which place Captain Parry has been directed to give the preference of touching on his way home ward for the purpose of affording you intelligence of him.

" If you should find that Captain Parry has passed, or should he pass after joining you, and that you have heard nothing of Captain Franklin, you are nevertheless to proceed to, or remain (as the case may be) at Behring's Straits in the autumn of 1827, as already directed, following in all respects the directions already given for your conduct in the autumn of 1826. " Having remained in Behring's Straits as late in the autumn of 1827 as the season will admit, and without risk ing the chance of being obliged to winter on account of the ice, you are to proceed to England by the route before di- THE 6 rected, reporting to our secretary your arrival, and transmit ting the journals of yourself and officers for our information. " As we have appointed Mr. Trandescant Lay, as naturalist in the voyage, and some of your officers are acquainted with certain branches of natural history, it is expected that your visits to the numerous islands of the Pacific, will afford the means of collecting rare and curious specimens in the several departments of this branch of science.

You are to cause it to be understood, that two specimens at least, of each article, are to be reserved for the public museums, after which the naturalists and officers will be at liberty to collect for them selves. You will pay every attention in your power to the preservation of the various specimens of natural history, and on your arrival in England transmit them to this office ; and if on your arrival at any place in the course of your voyage, you should meet with a safe conveyance to England, you are to avail yourself of it to send home any despatches you may have, accompanied by journals, charts, drawings, &c. and such specimens of natural history as may have been collected, and you will on each of your visits to Owhyhee, de liver to his majesty's consul at that place, duplicates of all your previous collections and documents, to be transmitted by him, by the first safe opportunity to England.

" In the event of England becoming involved in hostilities with any other power during your absence, you are never theless clearly to understand that you are not on any account to commit any hostile act whatever ; the vessel you com mand being sent out only for the purpose of science and discovery, and it being the practice of all civilized nations to consider vessels so employed as excluded from the operations of war, and confiding in this general seeling, we should trust that you would receive every assistance from the ships or subjects of any foreign power which you may fall in with. " Signed by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, the 11th May 1825."

Chapter II

The Blossom sailed from Spithead on the 19th of May, and bore down Channel with a fair wind, but in a short time the vessel encountered all the tempestuous weather which is generally known to prevail in the Bay of Biscay. The storm was, however, but of short duration, and a favourable wind springing up they bore away to the southward, steering their course for the Canary Islands, of which they came in sight on the 1st June. It being the intention of Captain Beechey to touch at Santa Cruz, the capital of the island of Teneriffe, they hauled up for the land, and they had soon reason to congratulate them selves on having taken this step, for it was ascertained that so strong a current set to the southward, that had they merely relied upon their reckoning, they would have overshot the port, and some difficulty would have afterwards occurred in regaining it.

The port of Santa Cruz, or the Holy Cross, from which the principal trade is carried on, is intensely hot, not only from the lowness of its situation, but from the reflection of the basaltic rocks above it. The island itself is of a triangular form, each side being about thirty-six miles in breadth. It is chiefly remarkable for its lofty peak, of the sloping sides of which the island actually consists. The elevation of the peak is about 12,250 feet. In ascending it, the first eminence is called Monte Verde ; beyond this is the Mountain of Pines, after passing which, the traveller reaches a plain called by the natives Mouton de Trigot, on which the peak stands. It is a mountainous platform, rising more than 7000 feet above the level of the plain. The piton or sugar loaf summit is very steep, and can be ascended only on the TIIE east and south-east sides.

At the elevation of 9786 feet, is a platform of pumice stones, bordered by two currents of lava; beyond it the acclivity is very steep, the currents of lava being covered with masses of scoriæ. Towards the summit nothing but pumice stone is to be seen. The crater is of an ellipti cal form, about 1200 feet in circuit, but has long since ceased to emit flames, and the summit may be considered as an ex tinguished volcano. From the sides of the mountain, several violent eruptions have taken place within the present century. The celebrated Humboldt, after having traversed the banks of the Orinoco, the Cordilleras, and the most beautiful valleys of Mexico, declares that he never beheld a landscape more agreeable, more harmonious, and more attractive than the island of Teneriffe presents. Orange, myrtle, and cypress trees entwine the chapels reared on their eminences.

The declivities and rising hills are covered with vines, and culti vated like a garden. Perpetual spring prevails in the district, and in the summer evenings, the breeze from the sea comes loaded with a delicious coolness. In this part of the island, the date tree, the plantain, the sugar cane, the Indian fig, the arum colocasia, -the root of which furnishes the lower class with a nutritive meal, the olive tree, the fruit trees of Europe, the vine, and corn are cultivated. Wheat is reaped from the end of March till the beginning of May, and the culture of the bread fruit tree of Otaheite, of the cinnamon, the coffee, and the cocoa has been tried with success. Above this fertile tract rises what is called the Region of the Laurels, forming an extensive border that extends all round Teneriffe.

These trees are fed by a vast number of springs that rise up amid a turf covered with perpetual verdure. Extensive plantations of chestnut occur in the lower part, above which rise four species of laurel, and an oak resembling that of Thibet, besides some other trees. The underwood in the lower part consists of arborescent heath, and in the upper part of ferns. Above this is a vast forest of oak and pine, those trees which characterize the colder regions of the earth. The prevailing species has the appeatance of the Scotch fir, with very long and stiff leaves, sprouting by two, or oftener by three in one sheath. Above this is a vast plain, like a sea of sand, covered with the dust of pumice stone, which continually fills the air. It is embellished with tufts of the beautiful shrub called the retama, growing to the height of nine feet, and loaded with odoriferous flowers.