Ten months among the tents of the Tuski, with incidents of an Arctic Boat Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, as far as the Mackenzie River and Cape Bathurst ... With a map and illustrations

Front matter

k TEN MONTHS AMONG THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI. .T BR-ATTT'AILn , *LLTH "MT * If HANHAJ^T, 1M h ■ THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI l.llNIl, ..(_ .4 . 4MM I.HIIil.". . LB.tct . F -qftTTiT. , DELT TEN MONTHS AMONG THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI, with incidents of an ARCTIC BOAT EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, AS FAR AS THE MACKENZIE RIVER, AND CAPE BATHURST. BY LIEUT. W. H. HOOPER, R.N. WITH A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1853. LONDON I BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. TO JOHN BARROW, Esq, E.R.S. &c. &c. &c. ADMIRALTY. My dear Friend, When engaged in the first Arctic expedition (H. M.S. Plover, with my esteemed friend Captain Moore) despatched from England in . search of H.M. Discovery Ships Erebus and Terror, (under command of she gallant Sir John Franklin,) in the equipment of which your honoured and lamented father bore so prominent a part, I wrote letters to my friends relating my first impressions of scenes and incidents encountered in a remote corner of the globe, during a long residence amongst an almost hitherto unknown race of people.

You saw some of these letters, expressed approval of and interest in VI DEDICATION. them, and suggested their being thrown together and submitted to a wider circle for perusal. Hence the following pages, by illness long deferred. Not alone the strong tie of friendship induced me to crave your permission to dedicate this book to you, but also the knowledge that you have ever stood foremost among those who, verbally and practically, have evinced their conviction that it would be cruel and would be a lasting disgrace to this country to relinquish the search for the missing voyagers untd definitive information respecting them shall be obtained, or the lapse of time render an assertion of their being no longer in existence no mere hypothesis. On another plea also I ask you to stand sponsor to my literary babe (and herein I feel assured I speak for many of those who, like myself, have wandered amid the stern and chilling regions of the North).

There can be few " Arctic men " who will not unite with me in earnest acknowledgment of your ever willing aid (not the less energetic because unob- DEDICATION. VII trusively exerted) towards their particular welfare, as well as to the more general furtherance of the schemes of humanity in which they were engaged, and the great exertions you have gone through. You are wrell aware that I have always entertained the most sanguine views with regard to the discovery ships ; and that, notwithstanding nearly eight years have elapsed since tidings were received, I still see no reason to despair. A mass of evidence is before us* to show that the Polar regions abound in animal life : the cases of four Russian sailors who spent six years on Spitsbergen, 1743-9, and that of Sir John Ross and party, who were four years ice-bound, afford precedents for the existence of the party now sought for ; and when we consider moreover that only the mere portals have yet been passed, and scarcely the threshold entered upon of that vast unknowm region, in any part of which it is possible the missing voyagers may be detained, we may relieve ourselves from fear of a charge of unreasonableness or obstinacy in the persistence of earnest hope that * Wrangell, Anjou, Parry, Richardson, Petermann, Sc.

Chapter I

Long absence of the "Erebus" and "Terror." — Consideration of Contingencies, and Plans for Relief. — H.M.S. "Plover," Commander Moore. — Sails for Behring's Straits. — Arrive at Sandwich Islands. — Description of Honolulu. — Its Inhabitants. — Beautiful Night Scene. — Departure. — Passage to Behring's Straits. — Aleutian Islands. — Russian Discoveries. — St. Lawrence Island. — Adverse Winds and Currents. — Tchutskoi Noss. — The Tchutski

Chapter II

Notices of Visits to Tchutski. — Cook and Billings, &c. — Wrangell's Laments. — Paucity of Information. — First Communication with Tchutski. — Ludicrous Mistake respecting Sex. — Attempts at Conversation. — Visit the Shore. — See real Women. — Delectable Repast. — First Theft. — Council of Officers. — Curious Hut. — Thermometer Jack. — Gale Detention of Natives. — Their Feast. — Tchutski Honour. — Move into Winter Quarters. — First Visit to Natives. — An interesting Infant. — Funny Fiddler. — The Sheep. — The House. — First Impressions. — The Masquerade. — The Missionary. — The Drama . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Chapter III

Tuski not Tchutski. — Tuski, Proper and Alien : their Difference. — Language. — Description. — Resemblance to Chinese. — Conjectures. — Difficulty of Discrimination. — A Trip. — Sledges. — Dogs. — Huts. — Furniture. — Utensils ......... CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV

Page Kaygwan. — A Tuski House. — Rather too Warm. — A Relief. — A Delusion. — Magic and Music ! ! — Snow Storm. — Two good Friends. — Port Emma. — Intimacy with Natives. — Tok. — Tuski Skill and Ingenuity. — The would-be Priest. — Constitution of Rank. — A clever Fellow ........... 48

Chapter V

Welcome little Stranger. — A merry Christmas. — A Christening. — A Visit from the Aristocracy. — An ancient, Too. — A canny lad, Euoch. — Miss Propriety, Meeco. — Mi-yo la Petite. — The Diplomate, Akoull. — Belconta the Clever. — A Child of Fortune, Metra the Slow. — Reindeer, a Tableau. — A Patriarch, Mooldooyah. — Yaneengah the Good. — The Friend, Ahmoleen. — The Pet, Ka-oong-ah.— A queer fellow, Omdooyah. — Attah the Knowing . . 62

Chapter VI

Friends. — Presents. — Tuski Preferences. — A La-loop. — The Tuski Dandy. — A State Visit. — Curious Dances. — The Oldest Inhabitant. — The Dead. — New Ideas. — Wootair. — Appearances of the Country. —A Chief's Yarang.— The Sea 80

Chapter VII

Mooldooyah's Hospitality. — Polygamy. — The Queen of the Yarang. — Repudiation. — The Contrast. — Reindeer and their Flesh — Mooldooyah's Music. — Return to the " Plover." — Oong-wy-sac. — Distortion of Past Events. — Perplexity and Perseverance. — Tidings. — Return to the ship .......... 98

Chapter VIII

Journey towards East Cape. — Arrangement of Villages. — Necessary to travel with Dogs. — Preparations. — Deceit. — Costume for Travelling. — Bad Weather. — Change Course. — Noowook. — A new Taste of Fish. — Tchaytcheen. — Modes of killing Seals. — The Snow Storm. —The Polka Ill CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX

Page Woman's Care. — The anxious Guides. — A solemn Ceremony. — Prolonged Misery and a new Disaster. — The Dilemma. — A Cruel Deception. — The last Night. — A glorious Discovery. — Hope and Deliverance. — Hunger of Dogs : its Consequences. — Thirst. — Kind Reception. — The Tuski Garrick. — The Hot Spring. — New Cookery 127

Chapter X

Way to manage Natives. — The Magical Magnet. — Quit Oongwysac. — The Deserted. — A Census. — May-tchoo-emin. — Tuski Games. — The trial of Speed. — The Wrestlers. — A large Bear-skin. — Tuski Bravery. — Combats and Marks. — The Greek Cross. — A Wanderer's Fate. — A Disagreeable Check. — Useless Instruction. — A piece of Good Luck. — Yandangah. — Ah-mo-leen. — A Tuski Gentleman. — A Tuski Villa.— Hospitality 142

Chapter XI

Vexatious Detention. — Attempts at Instruction. — Tuski Delicacy. — Enmity Explained. — The Coat of Mail. — Yandangah. — Noonahmone. — Startling Information. — Farewell to Ahmoleen. — Tragic Tidings.— Return to the "Plover" 159

Chapter XII

A Tuski Feast. — A Tuski Smoke. — The Ladies' Privilege. — The Draught. — The Tuski Plague. — A Sacred Ceremony. — The Shaman. — Description of Boats, Rope, &c. — Embroidery, Carving, &c. — Fire-making 170

Chapter XIII

Matricide, a Deed of Horror. — The Bride's Departure. — A Novel Punishment. — Snow-Blindness. — Companionship. — Refraction. — Games. — The Cripple. — Amusements of Children. — Cutting Out. — Caymgliche the Grateful. — The Ungrateful Stranger. — Summary CONTENTS. XII Pago

Chapter XIV

Arrive in Kotzebue Sound. — Mosquitos. — First View of Esquimaux. — Joined by "Herald" and "Nancy Dawson." — Midnight Sun. — Start on a Boat Expedition. — Visit of Esquimaux. — Moor to Ice Hummock. — Esquimaux Music and Dancing. — Threatening Attitude of Natives. — Burying Ground. — Anchor at Point Barrow. — Language of Signs. — Magnetic Observations. — Description of Natives. — Concert. — Oomiak. — Bury Intelligence. — Whalebone Henge. — Part from " Nancy Dawson." — Mr. Shedden ..... 212

Chapter XV

Take to Whale-boats and Oomiak. — Return of Mr. Martin and larger Boats to the Ship. — Dog Sledges. — Smith's Bay. — Heavy Sea. — Run for Shore. — Repair Damages. — Birds in Numbers. — Colville Shoals. — Critical position. — Throw over Provisions. — Point Berens. — Amber. — Shovel Jack. — Attitude of Natives. — Mirage. — Jones's Islands. — Esquimaux Chief fires a Musket. — Native Boats crowd us. — Point Beechy. — Visited by Esquimaux. — Prudential Preparations. — Shovel Jack again. — Treacherous Demonstrations. — Re-embark. — Natives follow. — Return Reef. — Fire with Ball. — Construct Stockade. — Marine charges with Bayonet. — Close of the three days' Demonstrations. — Natives depart. — Breakfast on the Ice. — Natives reappear. — Discharge their Arrows. — Reasons for Forbearance CONTENTS. XIII Png,

Chapter XVI

Lion Reef. — Seals. — Mountains. — Ducks and Divers. — Daily Routine. — Flaxman's Island — Ice. — Large Drift Wood.— Bury Pemmican. — Dog seen. — Native Huts. — Presents. — Ethnographic Distinctions. — European Knife. — Send up Rockets. — Native Wonder. — Oomiaks' mimic Manœuvres. — Esquimaux Family. — Whales. — ■ Herschel Island. — Wind shifts Suddenly. — Difficulties. — Calton Point. — Esquimaux bring Fish. — Tracking. — Paradoxical Barrows. — Laud near Sabine Point. — Huts and Women. — Buy a Frock from a Lady. — Thefts. — Compasses affected. — Approach to Mackenzie. • — Tracking up River. — Change in Vegetation. — Bear and Deer Tracks. — Erect a Cross. — Indian Visitor. — Peel River.— Mr. Hardisty visits us. — Proceed to Fort M'Pherson. — Changed Phase of Existence. — Departure of Mr. Pullen. — Annual Despatch. — Indian Paint and Decoration. — Loucheux or Q uarrellers. — Rat Indians. — Gluttony. — Indian Betrothals. — Forty Skins for One. — Indian Currency. — Esquimaux and Indian Feuds ..... 251

Chapter XVII

Horrible Esquimaux Attack. — Massacre of Loucheux. — Indian Bravery. — Anatomical Research. — Five Commoners make one Chief. — Mr. Peers' unsuccessful Mediation. — Indian instincts of Revenge. — Indian Supplies. — Leave for Fort Norman. — Indian Guides. — Followers dog us. — Enemy captures our Stores. — Enter Mackenzie. — Guides quit us.— Dogs again. — Encamp. — Our Hut takes Fire. — Pine Forests. — Ice-master frost-bitten. — Reach Fort Good Hope. — Mr. Me Beath; his kind Attentions. — Cent Sous Rapid. Bear River. — Burning Banks. — Reach Fort Norman. — Mr. Me Kenzie ; his Hospitality. — Salteaux' Legend of the Deluge. — Wolf Brothers & Co 274

Chapter XVIII

Gastronomy. — River lee. — Trapping. — Start for Great Bear Lake. — Cross the Mackenzie on the Ice. — Felling Trees to encamp. — Raising the Wind. — Penetrate dense Forests. — Cross Lakes. — Cranberries, &c. — Indian Hut. — Salmon Trout. — Summary Ejectment. — Slave Indians. — Indian Divorce. — Selling Wives. — Cannibal Acquaintance. — Sir J. Franklin's Hut. —Dreadful Starvation. — Eating an Orkney man. — Our Hut. — An airy Situation. — Occasional House-warming. — Lots of Tin. — Fish and Fish with it. — Swamp Tea. — Aurora. — Literary Destitution.— Novel burial of a Brother-in-law .......••■•• contpints. Page 313

Chapter XIX

Christmas Festivities. — Parhelia. — Indian Exaggeration. — A Regular Clipper. — Sledging to Fort Norman. — Starving Indians. — Indian Theology. — Medicine Men. — Vapour Bath. — Heating Water. — A Drone. — Diminution of Infanticide. — Making Medicine. — Pulling a-head. — Spring sets in. — Woodpeckers. — An Indian Death. — Return to New Fort Franklin. — Ravenous Petty Larceny. — Primitive Notions. — Floods. — Doctor Rae. — Start for Fort Simpson. — Hydrodynamic Forces. — Bears. — Indian Dance. — A Tale of Horror

Chapter XX

Leave Fort Simpson. — Ascent of Mackenzie. — Receive Admiralty Despatches. — Mr. Pullen Promoted. — Return to Fort Simpson. — The "Logan" and "Try Again." — Departure for the Sea Coast. — Point Separation. — Tiny Tormentors. — A diminutive Gourmand. — Re-enter the Arctic Ocean. — Garry Island. — Ice Blink. — Pelly Island. — A Change of Climate. — Discover new Islands. — An Esquimaux Hamlet. — Vexatious Impediments. — Scheme of Voyage. — Heavy Ice. — An Esquimaux Nurse. — Cape Bathurst, meeting with Esquimaux. — The Bear Hunt. — Progress checked by Ice. — Friendly Demeanour and pilfering Tendencies of Esquimaux. — Lose Indians. — Conjectures. — Indians return . . . .33'

Chapter XXI

Return Voyage. — Farewell to Esquimaux. — A Native Swell Mobsman. — Beaufort, Pullen, and Hooper Islands. — "Logan" Farewell. — Fort M'Pherson. — Horrible Massacre of Esquimaux. — Reflections upon its probable Consequences. — Ascent of Mackenzie. — Corroborative Confession of Manuel Hebert. — Arrival at Fort Simpson. — Remarks on the late Expedition. — Arrangements for Wintering. — Effect of Cold upon Metal. — Luxurious Diet. — Ice " Sets Fast." — A Narrow Escape.— Dogged Prejudices 362

Chapter XXII

New Year's Day Festival. — Cyclical Fluctuation in the Breed of Rabbits. — Conjectured Causes, and Indian Superstition thereon. — Consequent Effect upon fur-bearing Animals. — New Mode of catching Foxes. — Severity of Season. — Mercury metamorphosed. — CONTENTS. XV Pago Aurora Borealis. — Disruption of the Ice. — A Strange Prophecy. — Melancholy Effects of Superstition. — An Indian Marriage. — The Fight of the Females. — Farewell to Fort Simpson. — Fort Resolu lution. — Manufacture of Pemmican. — Slave River. — Muddled Moments. — The Hudson's Bay Company of Merchant-Adventurers. — The Hardy Voyageur. — The Adventures of a Pack. —Arrival at the Noye". — A beautiful Cascade. — Making a Portage. — Burn the Fort Boats. — Chipewyan. — The Chipewyans and Crees, their Language and Idiosyncrasy. — An Indian's Remorse. — Mr. Geero's Predilections. — The Lake of the Hills. — Natural Pitch. — Clear Water River. — Methy Portage. — Mermaid's Hair .... 380

Chapter XXIII

Running a Rapid. — A Rapid Catalogue. — Portage du Diable. — A fatal Disaster. — Tales by the Way. — Riviere Malijjne. — The " Pas." — Norway House. — Les Portes d'Enfer. — Return Home . . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. r'age THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI Frontispiece. WINTER QUARTERS, PORT EMMA 7) INTERIOR OP A TUSKI HUT LOO THE GREEK CROSS 151 TUSKI MAN 158 NATIVE MAP 102 WOMAN AND CHILD . . 169 TUSKI PIPES . . . 1S7 MT PORTRAIT 211 NEW FORT FRANKLIN 30G MEETING WITH ESQUIMAUX, CAPE BATHURST . . . . 348 MAP At the end of the Bool: THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI.

Chapter I

Long absence of the "Erebus" and "Terror." — Consideration of Contingencies, and Plans for Relief. — H.M.S. " Plover," Commander Moore. — Sails for Behring's Straits. — Arrive at Sandwich Islands. — Description of Honolulu. — Its Inhabitants.— Beautiful Night Scene. — Departure. — Passage to Behring's Straits. — Aleutian Islands. — Russian Discoveries. — St. Lawrence Island. — Adverse Winds and Currents. — Tchutskoi Noss.— The Tchutski. The attention of the Admiralty having been drawn to the protracted absence of the two Arctic Discovery Ships, "Erebus" and "Terror," which sailed from England, under the command of Sir John Franklin, in the spring of 1845, and of which no tidings had been received, it was determined in the autumn of 1847, after mature consideration of the opinions of those most experienced in Arctic affairs, to despatch three expeditions as early as possible in 1848 to different quarters of the frozen sea, for the purpose of seeking, and, if necessary, relieving the missing voyagers.

B " PLOVER'S " VOYAGE. 2 Had the expedition become checked in its earlier career, Sir James Ross proceeding up Davis' Straits might expect to fall in with the party. Were it stopped between the eastern and western channels leading to the Polar Sea, some of Eranklin's people in that case would probably be despatched to the northern conti nent of America ; it was necessary, therefore, to send an expedition thither; this was undertaken by Sir John Richardson. A third locality remained, which it would have been imprudent to neglect. Conjecturing the entrance and medium passage to the westward to have been accomplished, exit had yet to be made by a region little visited, of which the great opening from the North Pacific into the Arctic Ocean, known as Behring's Strait, claimed paramount attention.

For the last-named quarter H. M. S. "Plover," under Commander T. E. L. Moore (an officer peculiarly fitted for this charge by his previous experience in Arctic and Antarctic travel), set sail from Plymouth on the 30th January, 1848. I do not desire to enter here upon a recital of either the fitting out or our voyage through regions interesting indeed, but already well knowm. Suffice it to say that after touching at Madeira and the Falklands, rounding Cape Horn and visiting Callao, we arrived at Honolulu, the capital of Woahu, SANDWICH ISLANDS. 3 the chief of the Sandwich Islands, on the 23rd of August, 1848, the voyage having been greatly pro tracted by calms and contrary winds, and the very indifferent sailing qualities of our vessel. This town presents from the outer anchorage the most picturesque type of a tropical village in all its loveli ness.

It extends along the sea-shore for about two miles; the houses are grouped in small clusters, surrounded by luxuriant plantations of sugar-cane, banana, and other fructiferants of torrid climes, surmounted by the lofty palm. With the exception of the public edifices and a few of the better class of houses, which are built of brick, stone, or even slabs of coral, the habitations are for the most part only rude huts, yet neat and cleanly-looking from a distance : from their sombre hue, they present a fine contrast to the varied tints of tree and herbage here exhibited. I thought it a perfect paradise. The sweet tale of Paul and Virginia, with the description of their home, came across my memory, and I pictured their land to be such an one as this. In the bay were numerous diminutive fishing-boats, each with an outrigger to prevent it from overturning, so narrow and frail are they.

This curious balance is composed of a branch of considerable thickness, with a straight stem about five feet in length, terminating B SANDWICH ISLANDS NATIVES. in a flattened fork, which ever and again, as the wee shell rocks to and fro, dips in the water and steadies her motion ; and in this way with paddle or sail, or both, they skim along over the waves. The residents at Honolulu are principally Americans, who engross much of the trade ; there are also a few Chinese shops, where this antiquated people may be seen in their national dress and surrounded by their native products — Japanned-ware, crapes, silks, ivory carved-work, &c, for which they find a ready sale. There are several churches and meeting-houses ; also one or two large manufactories and warehouses, conspi cuous from their size compared with the siu-rounding buildings.

On the right of the town is the harbour, in which were many vessels ; among others, several American whalers refitting for their return home ; and the old "Basilisk" lies here dismantled and deserted. I regarded her with great interest, remembering the many important matters in which she took her part, more particularly in the French affair with Queen Pomare. Honolulu cannot certainly be lauded for cleanliness nor the regularity of its construction : dirt abundantly displays itself, and in the streets we were enveloped in clouds of dust. The natives appear finely-limbed, muscular, and of good stature. The young people have handsome and somewhat intellectual countenances, with PISHING BY NIGHT. 5 splendid eyes, large and sparkling, having the fire and dark hue of the Indian ; then complexions are of the richest deep brown, some approaching copper colour ; and the skin so clear, that the blood can be seen mantling in their cheeks.

Old age seems to transmute all then charms into ugliness, for the few aged persons I saw were mostly hideous. At night we wrere delighted in viewing the natives fishing by torch light: in the frail canoes I have before noticed brands composed of the fibrous husk of the cocoa-nut emitted a lurid glare, and being in great numbers and constant motion imparted a Salvator-Rosa-like effect to the scene ; the softened gleam upon the shore was very beautiful, throwing up the more prominent objects, whose broad shadows, rendered deeper and more perfect by the blaze, mingled with and were lost in the gloom of the background. It was intended that in accordance with our instruc tions wre should have met H. M. S. "Herald," which was to co-operate with us, at Panama, but the plan of our route having been changed we had not visited that port, and hoped to have found her here ; in this expectation we were, however, disappointed ; and after obtaining a plentiful supply .of tropical fruits and vegetables, proceeded alone on the 25th, trusting to fall in with her in Kotzebue Sound.

DEPARTURE FROM SANDWICH ISLANDS. Having now quitted our last touching point, all om' attention was directed to preparing for our winter sojourn. Warm clothing was distributed ; cloaks and socks of the fur-sealskin made up, and ice gear fitted and inspected. In anticipation of boat expe ditions crews were appointed, and then several supplies apportioned, strong hopes being entertained of doing something before being frozen in. Some fine meteors were seen early in September, and black gull and whale birds observed in considerable numbers : a plover flew on board, a goodly omen, and dolphins gathered round the vessel. On the 9th we saw stormy petrels and sea swallows ; and the former, true to their popular reputation, proved harbingers of a heavy gale. The weather moderating, the nautilus was seen outspreading his tiny sail.

Towards the end of the month the presence of numerous birds, as well as quantities of sea weed, indicated the proximity of land; on the 27th, at no great distance from Madenoior Copper Island, — with the exception of Behring's Island, the westernmost of the group, — we passed between the Aleutian or Fox Islands, and the main-land of Kamtchatka. As these islands were among the first-fruits of the discovery from the west of the western coast of the North American continent, it may not be inappropriate BEHRING'S EXPEDITION. 7 to introduce here some slight account of their history and native inhabitants. The sagacious mind of Peter the Great having been stimulated by accounts collected from Kamtchadals, and transmitted to St. Petersburgh, concerning the vicinity of the north-eastern point of Asia to the north-western angle of America, devised an expedition to ascertain then correctness ; this, however, was delayed, by his death ; but the Empress Catharine, in accordance with his written instructions, immediately on ascending the throne, despatched Vitus Beering, or, as he is more commonly called, Behring, a native of Denmark in the Russian service, to obtain information on this point.

On the 14th of July, 1728, he left the river Kamtchatka in the " Fortune," with two lieutenants and forty men ; and having coasted the Kamtchadal, Koriak, and Tchutskoi countries as far as 67° 18' north, returned, having unawrares passed but a very few miles through the Straits which now bear his name. This unconsciousness is rather curious, as he had some intercourse with people in their boats, who would seem to have been Tchutski, who inhabit a country on the coast of Asia, within thirty miles of the American continent; they, however, informed him that their nation, although travelling with rein-deer as far as the Kovyma, or Kolyma, ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. which runs into the Northern Ocean, had never attempted any passage by sea. He therefore returned home disappointed in the object of his search.

He again made the attempt in 1729, but failed from adverse winds. No further effort was made till 1741, when Behring again sailed with Tschirikof on their notable enterprise in their two vessels, the "St. Peter" and "St. Paul;" and steering to the E.S.E., and S.E. by E., reached the continent of America on the 15th of July. The precise position of the spot has been much contested, but there is good reason to suppose he landed in the immediate neigh bourhood of Kayes Island, lat. 60° N., long. 144° 30' W. It again seems strange that Behring should thus have proceeded so far to the east without reaching land, as the whole range of Aleutian or Fox Islands, with the promontory of Alaska, lay directly in the course between the points of his departure from Asia and arrival in America, extending in a scattered fine from America to within ten degrees of the Kamtchatkan coast.

In the beginning of September, on their return voyage, the expedition fell in with the chain of the Fox Islands, and on the 6th of November landed on Behring's Island, at first supposing it to be the main land of Avatcha ; here they suffered great misery and sickness, and on the 8th of November Behring died. ALEUTIAN ISLANDERS. 9 The immense quantity of animal life which then existed on these islands, may be gathered from the fact that on one short expedition in 1750, the large numbers of 1781 sea otters, 720 blue foxes, and 840 young sea bears were taken, and then furs and skins carried back by one vessel to the Russian territories. The inhabitants are described by the admirable and sagacious Steller, who accompanied Behring, as mostly young or middle-aged, of moderate stature, but tolerably well-proportioned ; their arms and legs very fleshy, then hair straight and of a glossy blackness, the nose flat but not broad or large, the eyes black, the lips thick and turned upward ; necks short, shoulders broad, and bodies thick but not corpulent.

They wore shirts made of the intestines of whales ; boots and breeches of seal-skin, stained a brown red with alder bark ; and had long iron knives, apparently their own manufacture (though he throws some doubt on this point later in his narrative). They made hats of bark which were coloured red and green, and ornamented with feathers and grass ; and bored holes in various parts of the face, in which they inserted bones and stones. They had little or no beard. They seemed to migrate from island to island, ALEUTIAN ISLANDERS. and many to the mainland of America, and were accustomed to tattoo their faces with a red-hot needle. Otcheredin, who made a lengthened visit in 1770, describes the Fox Islands as generally rocky, but destitute of wood, and abounding with rivulets and lakes which contain very little fish ; the population, free and numerous ; living principally in holes dug in the earth, and subsisting on sea animals and small shell-fish, with the wild lily-root as their greatest luxury.

Dr. Latham, in his " Varieties of Man," asserts that the inhabitants of these islands, including Behring's, Copper, Rat, Andreanowsky, and Prebulowiini, are all of Esquimaux origin ; this he principally infers from the radical construction of the language. To Captain Cook, our own enterprising navigator, belongs the merit of the true discovery of the Straits between the two continents, although, with his usual good taste and modesty, he gave to them the name of Behring, in honour of, as he supposed, the first European who ever navigated those seas. There is now, however, little ground for reasonable doubt, although the fact long remained involved in obscurity, that to Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef, may be attributed the first passage of them by civilised man. Iseai Ignatiew, VISITS TO BEHRING'S STRAITS. 11 who is the first person recorded to have attempted the navigation of the Polar Ocean, sailed from Kolymsk, east of Kolyma, in 1646 ; but only reached Tchaun Bay.

He obtained some walrus teeth by barter with the Tchutski dwelling there, and described them as a warlike people. His accounts induced the Fedot Alexiew, agent to a Moscow merchant, to make an expedition in June, 1647, from the Kolyma, designing to reach the Anadyr. Attached to his mission wras the Cossack Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef, as government representative. Difficulties obliged them to return; and in 1648 a second expedition was commenced, consisting of seven vessels, of which four were probably lost, as further accounts have reached us of only three. Deshnew seems to have had a favourable season; and, passing Chelagskoi Noss, made his way eastward and to the south, until he reached the Gulf of Anadyr. He does not, appear, however, to have had any knowledge of the proximity of the coast of America, With these few remarks let us now resume our own voyage.

We steered north-west for the island of St. Lawrence, which lies in the fair way to the entrance of Behring's Straits ; and struck soundings on the 5th of October in 150 fathoms; on the same date we first experienced snow. A large number of PROCEED NORTHWARD. geese were seen flying to the southward, a notable token of the winter setting in. Headwinds and strong currents now much impeded our progress, and we only sighted the island of St. Lawrence early in the morning of 13th October : during the night of the 15th, we drifted so far to the north-west, that at three a.m., in the morning, the coast of Asia, near the Tchutskoi Noss, was dis covered, with huts and signs of life visible on the shore. Here was a deep indentation, with the appearance of a river, which boats were despatched to examine.