Ten months among the tents of the Tuski, with incidents of an Arctic boat expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, as far as the Mackenzie River, and Cape Bathurst

Front matter

aay mp,

IBRA.

# (Vl

Chapter I

Page Long absence of the “Erebus” and “Terror.”—Consideration of Contingencies, and Plans for Relief—H.M.S. “Plover,” Commander Moore.—Sails for Behring’s Straits—Arrive at Sandwich Islands.—Description of Honolulu.—Its Inhabitants.—Beautiful Night Scene.—Departure.—Passage to Behring’s Straits—Aleutian Islands.—Russian Discoveries.—St. Lawrence Island.—Adverse Winds and Currents.—Tchutskoi Noss.—The Tchutski ; ee ae

Chapter II

Notices of Visits to Tchutskii—Cook and Billings, &c.—Wrangell’s Laments.—Paucity of Information.—First Communication with Tchutski—Ludicrous Mistake respecting Sex.—Attempts at Conversation.—Visit the Shore.—See real Women.—Delectable Repast. —First Theft.—Council of Officers.—Curious Hut.—Thermometer Jack, —Gale.— Detention of Natives.— Their Feast. —Tchutski Honour.—Move into Winter Quarters.—First Visit to Natives.—

An interesting Infant.—Funny Fiddler.—The Sheep.—The House. —First Impressions.—The Masquerade.—The Missionary.—The Drama . : é : - z . ; : : : Sale:

Chapter III

Tuski not Tchutski—Tuski, Proper and Alien: their Difference.— Language.—Description.—Resemblance to Chinese.—Conjectures. —Difficulty of Discrimination.—A Trip.—Sledges. Fc —Huts. —Furniture.—Utensils . : ; ‘ : ; : . 33 x CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Kaygwan.— A Tuski House.— Rather too Warm.—A Relief.—A Delusion.—Magic and Music! !—Snow Storm.—Two good Friends. —Port Emma.—Intimacy with Natives.—Tok.—Tuski Skill and Ingenuity.— The would-be Priest.—Constitution of Rank.—A clever Fellow . ; : : : : j : ;

CHAPTER YV.

Welcome little Stranger.—A merry Christmas.—A Christening. — A Visit from the Aristocracy.—An ancient, Teo.—A canny lad, Enoch.—Miss Propriety, Meeco.—Mi-yo la Petite.—The Diplomate, Akoull.—Belconta the Clever.—A Child of Fortune, Metra the Slow.—Reindeer, a Tableau.—A Patriarch, Mooldooyah. —Yaneengah the Good.—The Friend, Ahmoleen.—The Pet, Ka-oong-ah.—A. queer fellow, Omdooyah.—Attah the Knowing .

Chapter X

Way to manage Natives.—The Magical Magnet.—Quit Oongwysac. — The Deserted.—A Census.—May-tchoo-emin.—Tuski Games.—The trial of Speed.—The Wrestlers.—A large Bear-skin.—Tuski Bravery.—Combats and Marks.—The Greek Cross.—A Wanderer’s Fate——A Disagreeable Check.—Useless Instruction.—A piece of Good Luck.—Yandangah.—Ah-mo-leen.—A Tuski Gentleman.—A Tuski Villa.—Hospitality : : : . : , : . 142

CHAPTER XIV. Page

Arrive in Kotzebue Sound.—Mosquitos.—First View of Esquimaux.— Joined by “Herald” and “Nancy Dawson.”—Midnight Sun.— Start on a Boat Expedition.—Visit of Esquimaux.—Moor to Ice Hummock. — Esquimaux Musicand Dancing.—Threatening Attitude of Natives.—Burying Ground.—Anchor at Point Barrow.—Language of Signs.—Magnetic Observations.—Deseription of Natives. —Concert.—Oomiak.—Bury Intelligence.—Whalebone Henge.— Part from “ Nancy Dawson.”—Mr. Shedden . ; : : « 212

Chapter XV

Take to Whale-boats and Oomiak.—Return of Mr. Martin and larger Boats to the Ship.—Dog Sledges.—Smith’s Bay.—Heavy Sea.— Run for Shore——Repair Damages.—Birds in Numbers.—Colville Shoals.—Critical position.—Throw over Provisions.— Point Berens. —Amber.—Shovel Jack.—Attitude of Natives.—Mirage.—Jones’s Islands—Esquimaux Chief fires a Musket.—Native Boats crowd us.—Point Beechy.—Visited by Esquimaux.—Prudential Preparations.—Shovel Jack again.—Treacherous Demonstrations.—Re-embark.—Natives follow.—Return Reef—Fire with Ball.—Construct Stockade.—Marine charges with Bayonet.—Close of the three days’ Demonstrations.—Natives depart.—Breakfast on the Ice.—Natives reappear.— Discharge their Arrows.— Reasons for Forbearance . “ 5 : : ; : : 2 : . 231

CONTENTS. xill

Chapter XVI

Page Lion Reef.—Seals.—Mountains.—Ducks and Divers.—Daily Routine. —Flaxman’s Island.—Ice.—Large Drift Wood.—Bury Pemmican. —Dog seen.—Native Huts.—Presents.—Ethnographie Distincetions.—European Knife.—Send up Rockets.—Native Wonder.— Oomiaks’ mimic Manceuvres.—Esquimaux Family.—Whales.— Herschel Island.—Wind shifts Suddenly.—Difficulties.—Calton Point.—Esquimaux bring Fish.—Tracking.—Paradoxical Barrows. —Land near Sabine Point.—Huts and Women.—Buy a Frock from a Lady.—Thefts.—Compasses affected.—Approach to Mackenzie. —Tracking up River.—Change in Vegetation.—Bear and Deer Tracks.—Erect a Cross.—Indian Visitor.—Peel River.—Mr. Hardisty visits us.—Proceed to Fort M‘Pherson.—Changed Phase of Existence.—Departure of Mr. Pullen.—Annual Despatch.—Indian Paint and Decoration.—Loucheux or Quarrellers.—Rat Indians.-— Gluttony.—Indian Betrothals.—Forty Skins for One,—Indian

Currency.—Esquimaux and Indian Feuds —. ; A 2 . 251

Chapter XVII

Horrible Esquimaux Attack.—Massacre of Loucheux.—Indian Bravery, -—Anatomical Research.—Five Commoners make one Chief.— Mr. Peers’ unsuccessful Mediation.—Indian instincts of Revenge.— Indian Supplies——Leave for Fort Norman.—Indian Guides.— Followers dog us.—Enemy captures our Stores.—Enter Mackenzie.—Guides quit us.— Dogs again.—Encamp.—Our Hut takes Fire.—Pine Forests.—Ice-master frost-bitten—- Reach Fort Good Hope.—Mr. Mec Beath; his kind Attentions.—Cent Sous Rapid. —Bear River.—Burning Banks.—Reach Fort Norman.—Mr. Me Kenzie; his Hospitality.—Salteaux’ Legend of the Deluge.— Wolf Brothers & Co. : : : ‘ : : : : . 274

Chapter XVIII

Gastronomy.—River Ice.—Trapping.—Start for Great Bear Lake.— Cross the Mackenzie on the Ice.—Felling Trees to encamp.— Raising the Wind.—Penetrate dense Forests——Cross Lakes.— Cranberries, &c.—Indian Hut.—Salmon Trout.—Summary Ejectment.—Slave Indians.—Indian Divorce.—Selling Wives.—Cannibal Acquaintance.—Sir J. Franklin’s Hut.—Dreadful Staryation.— Eating an Orkney man.—Our Hut.—An airy Situation.—Occasional House-warming.—Lots of Tin.—Fish and Fish with it—Swamp Tea.—Aurora.—Literary Destitution.—Novel burial of a Brother-in-law. . . - : - : - : : : . 296 xiv CONTENTS.

Chapter XIX

Page Christmas Festivities —Parhelia—Indian Exaggeration.—A Regular Clipper.—Sledging to Fort Norman.—Starving Indians.—Indian Theology.—Medicine Men.—Vapour Bath.—Heating Water.—A Drone.—Diminution of Infanticide——Making Medicine.—Pulling a-head.—Spring sets in.—Woodpeckers.—An Indian Death.— Return to New Fort Franklin.—Ravenous Petty Larceny.— Primitive Notions.—Floods.—Doctor Rae.—Start for Fort Simpson.— Hydrodynamic Forces.—Bears.—Indian Dance.—A Tale of Horror 313

Chapter XX

Leave Fort Simpson.—Ascent of Mackenzie.—Receive Admiralty Despatches.—Mr. Pullen Promoted.—Return to Fort Simpson.— The “Logan” and “Try Again.”—Departure for the Sea Coast.— Point Separation.—Tiny Tormentors.—A diminutive Gourmand. —Re-enter the Arctic Ocean.—Garry Island.—Ice Blink.—Pelly Island. — A Change of Climate.— Discover new Islands.— An Esquimaux Hamlet.— Vexatious Impediments.—Scheme of Voyage. —Heavy Ice.—An Esquimaux Nurse.—Cape Bathurst, meeting with Esquimaux.—The Bear Hunt.—Progress checked by Ice.— Friendly Demeanour and pilfering Tendencies of Esquimaux.— Lose Indians.—Conjectures.— Indians return : ; : . 337

Chapter XXI

Return Voyage.—Farewell to Esquimaux.—A Native Swell Mobsman. —Beaufort, Pullen, and Hooper Islands.—‘ Locan” Farewell.— Fort M‘Pherson.—Horrible Massacre of Esquimaux.—Reflections upon its probable Consequences.—Ascent of Mackenzie.—Corroborative Confession of Manuel Hebert.—Arrival at Fort Simpson. — Remarks on the late Expedition. Arrangements for Wintering. —Effect of Cold upon Metal.—Luxurious Diet.—Ice “Sets Fast.” —A Narrow Escape.—Dogged Prejudices : : ‘ : . 362

Chapter XXII

New Year's Day Festival—Cyclical Fluctuation in the Breed of Rabbits.—Conjectured Causes, and Indian Superstition thereon. —Consequent Effect upon fur-bearing Animals.—New Mode of catching Foxes.—Severity of Season.—Mercury metamorphosed.—

CONTENTS. XV

Page Aurora Borealis.—Disruption of the Ice.—A Strange Prophecy.— Melancholy Effects of Superstition.—An Indian Marriage.—The Fight of the Females.—Farewell to Fort Simpson.—Fort Resolulution.— Manufacture of Pemmican.—Slave River.— Muddled Moments.—The Hudson’s Bay Company of Merchant-Adventurers. —The Hardy Voyageur.—The Adventures of a Pack.—Arrival at the Noyé.—A beautiful Cascade.—Making a Portage.—Burn the Fort Boats.—Chipewyan.—The Chipewyans and Crees, their Language and Idiosyncrasy.—An Indian’s Remorse.—Mr. Geero’s Predilections.—The Lake of the Hills—Natural Pitch—Clear Water River.—Methy Portage.—Mermaid’s Hair . ; : . 880

Chapter XXIII

Running a Rapid.—A Rapid Catalogue.—Portage du Diable.—A fatal Disaster.—Tales by the Way.—Riviére Maligne.—The “ Pas.”— Norway House.—Les Portes d’Enfer.—Return Home. ; . 409

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

——— THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI

WINTER QUARTERS, PORT EMMA

INTERIOR OF A TUSKI HUT .

THE GREEK CROSS.

TUSKI MAN

NATIVE MAP

WOMAN AND CHILD .

TUSKI PIPES

MY PORTRAIT

NEW FORT FRANKLIN .

MEETING WITH ESQUIMAUX, CAPE BATHURST

MAP

Page Frontispiece.

At the end of the Book.

THE

EENTS. OF THE. TUSKI-.

Chapter I

Long absence of the “Erebus” and “ Terror.”—Consideration of Contingencies, and Plans for Relief.—H.M.S. “ Plover,” Commander Moore.— Sails for Behring’s Straits.—Arrive at Sandwich Islands.—Description of Honolulu.—lIts Inhabitants.— Beautiful Night Scene.—Departure.— Passage to Behring’s Straits.—Aleutian Islands.—Russian Discoveries. —St. Lawrence Island—Adverse Winds and Currents.—Tchutskoi Noss.—The Tchutski.

T'nx attention of the Admiralty having been drawn to the protracted absence of the two Arctic Discovery Ships, “Erebus” and “Terror,” which sailed from England, under the command of Sir John Franklin, in the spring of 1845, and of which no tidings had been received, it was determined in the autumn of 1847, after mature consideration of the opinions of those most experienced in Arctic affairs, to despatch three expeditions as early as possible in 1848 to different quarters of the frozen sea, for the purpose of seeking, and, if necessary, relieving the missing voyagers.

B

2 ““PLOVERS”” VOYAGE.

Had the expedition become checked in its earlier career, Sir James Ross proceeding up Davis’ Straits might expect to fallin with the party. Were it stopped between the eastern and western channels leading to the Polar Sea, some of Franklin’s people in that case would probably be despatched to the northern continent of America; it was necessary, therefore, to send an expedition thither; this was undertaken by Sir John Richardson. A third locality remained, which it would have been imprudent to neglect. Conjecturing the entrance and medium passage to the westward to have been accomplished, exit had yet to be made by a region little visited, of which the great opening from the North Pacific into the Arctic Ocean, known as Behring’s Strait, claimed paramount attention.

For the last-named quarter H. M.S. “Plover,” under Commander T. E. L. Moore (an officer peculiarly fitted for this charge by his previous experience in Arctic and Antarctic travel), set sail from Plymouth on the 30th January, 1848.

I do not desire to enter here upon a recital of either the fitting out or our voyage through regions interesting indeed, but already well known. Suffice it to say that after touching at Madeira and the Falklands, rounding Cape Horn and visiting Callao, we arrived at Honolulu, the capital of Woahu,

SANDWICH ISLANDS, 3 the chief of the Sandwich Islands, on the 23rd of August, 1848, the voyage having been greatly protracted by calms and contrary winds, and the very indifferent sailmg qualities of our vessel. This town presents from the outer anchorage the most picturesque type of a tropical village in all its loveliness. It extends along the sea-shore for about two miles; the houses are grouped in small clusters, surrounded by luxuriant plantations of sugar-cane, banana, and other fructiferants of torrid climes, surmounted by the lofty palm.

With the exception of the public edifices and a few of the better class of houses, which are built of brick, stone, or even slabs of coral, the habitations are for the most part only rude huts, yet neat and cleanly-looking from a distance : from their sombre hue, they present a fine contrast to the varied tints of tree and herbage here exhibited. I thought it a perfect paradise. The sweet tale of Paul and Virginia, with the description of their home, came across my memory, and I pictured their land to be such an one as this.

In the bay were numerous diminutive fishing-boats, each with an outrigger to prevent it from overturning, so narrow and frail are they. This curious balance is composed of a branch of considerable thickness, with a straight stem about five feet in length, terminating B2

4. SANDWICH ISLANDS—NATIVES.

in a flattened fork, which ever and again, as the wee shell rocks to and fro, dips in the water and steadies her motion ; and in this way with paddle or sail, or both, they skim along over the waves.

The residents at Honolulu are principally Americans, who engross much of the trade ; there are also a few Chinese shops, where this antiquated people may be seen in their national dress and surrounded by their native products—Japanned-ware, crapes, silks, ivory carved-work, &c., for which they find a ready sale. There are several churches and meeting-houses ; also one or two large manufactories and warehouses, conspicuous from their size compared with the surrounding buildmgs. On the right of the town is the harbour, im which were many vessels; among others, several American whalers refittmg for their return home; and the old “Basilisk” lies here dismantled and deserted. I regarded her with great interest, remembering themany important matters im which she took her part, more particularly in the French affair with Queen Pomaré.

Honolulu cannot certainly be lauded for cleanliness nor the regularity of its construction : dirt abundantly displays itself, and in the streets we were enveloped in clouds of dust. The natives appear finely-limbed, muscular, and of good stature. ‘The young people have handsome and somewhat intellectual countenanees, with

FISHING BY NIGHT. 5 splendid eyes, large and sparkling, having the fire and dark hue of the Indian; their complexions are of the richest deep brown, some approaching copper colour ; and the skin so clear, that the blood can be seen mantling in their cheeks. Old age seems to transmute all their charms into ugliness, for the few aged persons I saw were mostly hideous. At night we were delighted in viewing the natives fishing by torchlight: in the frail canoes I have before noticed brands composed of the fibrous husk of the cocoa-nut emitted a lurid glare, and being in great numbers and constant motion imparted a Salvator-Rosa-like effect to the scene; the softened gleam upon the shore was very beautiful, throwing up the more prominent objects, whose broad shadows, rendered deeper and more perfect by the blaze, mingled with and were lost in the gloom of the background.

It was intended that in accordance with our instructions we should have met H. M.S. “Herald,” which was to co-operate with us, at Panama, but the plan of our route having been changed we had not visited that port, and hoped to have found her here; in this expectation we were, however, disappointed ; and after obtaining a plentiful supply of tropical fruits and vegetables, proceeded alone on the 25th, trusting to fall in with her in Kotzebue Sound.

6 DEPARTURE FROM SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Having now quitted our last touchmg point, all our attention was directed to preparing for our winter sojourn. Warm clothing was distributed; cloaks and socks of the fur-seal skin made up, and ice gear fitted and inspected. In anticipation of boat expeditions crews were appoimted, and their several supplies apportioned, strong hopes being entertained of doing something before being frozen in.

Some fine meteors were seen early in September, and black gull and whale birds observed in considerable numbers: a plover flew on board, a goodly omen, and dolphins gathered round the vessel. On the 9th we saw stormy petrels and sea swallows ; and the former, true to their popular reputation, proved harbingers of a heavy gale. The weather moderating, the nautilus was seen outspreading his tiny sail.

Towards the end of the month the presence of numerous birds, as well as quantities of sea weed, indicated the proximity of land; on the 27th, at no great distance from Madenoi or Copper Island,—with the exception of Behring’s Island, the westernmost of the group,—we passed between the Aleutian or Fox Islands, and the main-land of Kamtchatka.

As these islands were among the first-fruits of the discovery from the west of the western coast of the

North American continent, it may not be inappropriate

BEHRING S EXPEDITION. 7 to introduce here some slight account of their history and native inhabitants.

The sagacious mind of Peter the Great having been stimulated by accounts collected from Kamtchadals, and transmitted to St. Petersburgh, concerning the vicimity of the north-eastern point of Asia to the north-western angle of America, devised an expedition to ascertain their correctness ; this, however, was delayed, by his death; but the Empress Catharine, in accordance with his written instructions, immediately on ascending the throne, despatched Vitus Beering, or, as he is more commonly called, Behring, a native of Denmark in the Russian service, to obtain information on this point. On the 14th of July, 1728, he left the river Kamtchatka in the “ Fortune,” with two leutenants and forty men; and having coasted the Kamtchadal, Koriak, and Tchutskoi countries as far as 67° 18’ north, returned, having unawares passed but a very few miles through the Straits which now bear his name. This unconsciousness is rather curious, as he had some intercourse with people in their boats, who would seem to have been Tchutski, who inhabit a country on the coast of Asia, within thirty miles of the American continent; they, however, informed him that their nation, although travelling with reim-deer as far as the Kovyma, or Kolyma,

8 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS.

which runs into the Northern Ocean, had never attempted any passage by sea. He therefore returned home disappointed in the object of his search.

He again made the attempt in 1729, but failed from adverse winds. No further effort was made till 1741, when Behring again sailed with Tschirikof on their notable enterprise in their two vessels, the “St. Peter” and “St. Paul;” and steering to the E.S.E., and S.E. by E., reached the continent of America on the 15th of July. The precise position of the spot has been much contested, but there is good reason to suppose he landed in the immediate neighbourhood of Kayes Island, lat. 60° N., long. 144° 30° W. It again seems strange that Behring should thus have proceeded so far to the east without reaching land, as the whole range of Aleutian or Fox Islands, with the promontory of Alaska, lay directly mm the course between the pomts of his departure from Asia and arrival in America, extending in a scattered line from America to within ten degrees of the Kamtchatkan coast. In the beginning of September, on their return voyage, the expedition fell in with the chain of the Fox Islands, and on the 6th of November landed on Behring’s Island, at first supposing it to be the mainland of Avatcha; here they suffered great misery and sickness, and on the 8th of November Behring died.

ALEUTIAN ISLANDERS. 9

The immense quantity of ammal life which then existed on these islands, may be gathered from the fact that on one short expedition in 1750, the large numbers of 1781 sea otters, 720 blue foxes, and 840 young sea bears were taken, and their furs and skins carried back by one vessel to the Russian territories.

The imhabitants are described’ by the admirable and sagacious Steller, who accompanied Behring, as mostly young or middle-aged, of moderate stature, but tolerably well-proportioned ; their arms and legs very fleshy, their hair straight and of a glossy blackness, the nose flat but not broad or large, the eyes black, the lips thick and turned upward ; necks short, shoulders broad, and bodies thick but not corpulent. They wore shirts made of the intestines of whales ; boots and breeches of seal-skin, stained a brown red with alder bark ; and had long iron knives, apparently their own manufacture (though he throws some doubt on this poimt later im his narrative). They made hats of bark which were coloured red and green, and ornamented with feathers and grass; and bored holes in various parts of the face, in which they iserted bones and stones. They had little or no beard.

‘They seemed to migrate from island to island,

10 ALEUTIAN ISLANDERS.

and many to the mamland of America, and were accustomed to tattoo their faces with a red-hot needle.

Otcheredin, who made a lengthened visit in 1770, describes the Fox Islands as generally rocky, but destitute of wood, and abounding with rivulets and lakes which contain very little fish ; the population, free and numerous; living principally in_ holes ‘dug in the earth, and subsisting on sea animals and small shell-fish, with the wild liy-root as their greatest luxury.

Dr. Latham, in his “‘ Varieties of Man,” asserts that the inhabitants of these islands, including Behring’s, Copper, Rat, Andreanowsky, and Prebiilowiini, are all of Esquimaux origin; this he principally infers from the radical construction of the language.

To Captain Cook, our own enterprising navigator, belongs the merit of the true discovery of the Straits between the two contments, although, with his usual good taste and modesty, he gave to them the name of Behring, in honour of, as he supposed, the first European who ever navigated those seas. There is now, however, little ground for reasonable doubt, although the fact long remained involved in obscurity, that to Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef, may be attributed the first passage of them by civilised man. Iseai Ignatiew,

VISITS TO BEHRING’S STRAITS. Tt who is the first person recorded to have attempted the navigation of the Polar Ocean, sailed from Kolymsk, east of Kolyma, in 1646; but only reached Tchaun Bay. He obtamed some walrus teeth by barter with the Tchutski dwelling there, and described them as a warlike people. His accounts induced the Fedot Alexiew, agent to a Moscow merchant, to make an expedition in June, 1647, from the Kolyma, designing to reach the Anadyr. Attached to his mission was the Cossack Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef, as government representative. Difficulties obliged them to return; and in 1648 a second expedition was commenced, consisting of seven vessels, of which four were probably lost, as further accounts have reached us of only three. Deshnew seems to have had a favourable season; and, passing Chelagskoi Noss, made his way eastward and to the south, until he reached the Gulf of Anadyr. He does not appear, however, to have had any knowledge of the proximity of the coast of America. With these few remarks let us now resume our own voyage.

We steered north-west for the island of St. Lawrence, which lies in the fair way to the entrance of Behring’s Straits; and struck soundings on the 5th of October in 150 fathoms; on the same date we first experienced snow. A large number of hee PROCEED NORTHWARD.

geese were seen flying to the southward, a notable token of the winter setting in.

Headwinds and strong currents now much impeded our progress, and we only sighted the island of St. Lawrence early in the morning of 13th October : during the night of the 15th, we drifted so far to . the north-west, that at three a.m., in the morning, the coast of Asia, near the T’chutskoi Noss, was discovered, with huts and signs of life visible on the shore. Here was a deep indentation, with the appearance of a river, which boats were despatched to examine. Meanwhile, the natives were evidently not unconscious of our presence : much bustle was observable among them, and after considerable running to and fro, they launched four boats, and pulled towards us, with signs of trepidation. Their diffidence being at length overcome, they paddled alongside, and climbed on board.

This was our first interview with the Tchutski, a people of whom less is known than any on the face of the habitable globe Gf we except, perhaps, some of the tribes in the interior of Africa) ; and whose manners and appearance are so singular as to deserve a more particular notice hereafter.

Chapter II

Notices of Visits to Tchutskii—Cook and Billings, &c.—Wrangell’s Laments. — Paucity of information. — First communication - with Tchutski.—Ludicrous Mistake respecting Sex.—Attempts at Conversation.—Visit the Shore.—See real Women.—Delectable Repast.—First Theft.— Council of Officers.— Curious Hut.— Thermometer Jack.— Gale.—Detention of Natives.—Their Feast.—Tchutski Honour.—Move into Winter Quarters.—First Visit to Natives.—An interesting Infant. —Funny Fiddler.—The Sheep.—The House.—First Impressions.— The Masquerade.—The Missionary.—The Drama.

A COMBINATION of untoward circumstances had driven us on a coast and among a people rarely visited. _ Cook, rankmg only second to Columbus among navigators, was the first who touched upon this shore, in 1778: his was but a flying visit, as he merely landed for about a couple of hours near the Tchutskoi Noss, and then re-embarked never to return, although doubtless his mtention was to have made further acquaintance with so interesting a country. Behring, in 1728, communicated with the people of this coast, in latitude 64° 30’ north, near the Tchutskoi Noss. The eight natives who visited him im a baidar, stated that the coast trended to the

14 VISITS OF COOK, ETC., TO TCHUTSKI.

westward, and spoke of an island not far distant, which he discovered two days after, and called St. Lawrence ; but neither he nor Lieutenant Synd, who in 1767 visited this island, and was close to the main, seem to have thought it worth while to land or make further mquiry respecting this isolated nation. Billings, an officer in the Russian service, who had been with Cook m his voyage to the North Pacific, anchored in the Bay of St. Lawrence (not St. Lawrence Island) on the 4th August, 1790; he does not appear to have made any lengthened sojourn, nor to have endeavoured to learn much respecting the people ; but proceeded at once to the River Kolyma, a journey which occupied six months, and thence to St. Petersburgh. We have learned little concerning the Tchutski by his experience. Simeon Novikof and Ivan Baccof, proceeding in 1749 from Anadyrsk to Kamtchatka by sea, saw a few T'chutski upon the heights of their coast on the gulf.

These notices appear to comprehend nearly all that is known of this people, until the expedition of Wrangell, in 1821, when Matiuschin gained sufficient casual experience of them at the fair of Ostronowie and elsewhere, to create in his own mind and that of Baron Wrangell an intense desire to extend their knowledge of that extraordinary race.

LUDICROUS ERRORS AND CONVERSATION. 15

The pages of the latter are full of lament at his not having succeeded in his attempts to visit them. Since his journey no new account has been received ; and the further information which I was able to collect will, therefore, not be unacceptable. Our acquaintance with the T’chutski during our stay on their shores was so interwoven with our own existence and its occupations, that it would be matter of great difficulty to describe minutely, apart from some aceount of ourselves, such of their manners and habits as came under our notice.

We had at first considerable doubts as to the sex: of our visitants ; all were clad in loose hooded overshirts of skim, to keep them dry; and, being destitute of beards, might well be mistaken for the tender sex ; but we concluded that the party was of a mixed nature, this opimion having its foundation, probably, in the fact that some had their heads partially shaved. Many endeavours were made to establish verbal intercourse. Parry's vocabulary, and the few words mentioned by Wrangell, were essayed, but all to no purpose; they continually repeated “tam,” after-

2?

wards found to mean “no;”’ and our expressions of vexation at the ill success of our efforts sounded, in many instances, like their word of dissent. So we had recourse to signs, and succeeded admirably, and

16 VISIT THE SHORE.

speedily got on a very good footing. The fiddle was produced for their amusement, and m return we were regaled by the monotonous beating of a species of drum, which they had brought with them.

Two of their number, who seemed more intelligent than the rest, and took the most prominent share in their doings, and were, therefore, conjectured to be chiefs, informed us, by signs, of a convenient harbour close to our position, and of their desire that we should enter it. To ascertain the accuracy of their report, Captaim Moore sent me on shore to examine, the. two natives before alluded to accompanying me in the boat without the slightest trepidation. By their direction, I landed on the beach near their huts, and, surmounting the shingly bank which had been formed by the ice forcing up the shore, became in an instant the centre of attraction to a varied group of men, women, children, and dogs. It was now easy to discover that we had as yet seen only men, the women were readily distinguished by the difference of their costume and other details. Having made the necessary observations, I took leave of my companions, and returned to the ship.

On the morrow natives again visited us ; and one of those whom we had yesterday supposed to be chiefs, and who informed us that his name was, Akoull,

THE TREAT. Wi assisted in piloting us into the harbour before indicated, in the entrance to which we anchored under the lee of a spit projecting in a curve nearly half a mile from the shore. The temperature became very much reduced during the night, and ice formed around the ship sufficient to cut through a lead line which hung from the “ chains.”’

On the 18th the harbour was covered with a crust of ice which only melted away in the noon-day sun. We were again visited by the natives, among whom were now some women ; and on their making signs for something to eat, one of the ladies was presented, as a jest, with a small tallow candle, called a purser’s dip. It was, notwithstanding, a very pleasant joke to the damsel; who deliberately munched it up with evident relish, and finally drew the wick between her set teeth to clear off any remaining morsels of fat. This was rather too much for some of us, unaccustomed to such sights; but it was a mere trifle to scenes often afterwards witnessed.

At night the first appearance of Aurora Borealis was presented at N.W. by W., with rays converging to the zenith. We were engaged on the 19th in a search for water, but the rivulets were already frozen up; we were consequently obliged to fill our tanks withice. The natives being, as usual, on

Cc

18 CONSULTATION—THE THIEF.

board, one of the many thermometers was missed, and had evidently been purloined by one of our visitors. The strong adverse winds having continued hitherto, on the 20th the Captain called a council of officers, who, after much deliberation, recommended that, unless a favourable change of circumstances should occur sufficient to warrant the expectation of reaching Kotzebue Sound by the 26th, the “ Plover” should winter in the commodious harbour where she then was. The natives were informed of the loss of the thermometer, and on whom our suspicions rested. Parties were sent on shore at the spit to take observations, and to cut turf wherewith to eke out the winter’s fuel. Here, besides fragments of bones of whales, we discovered a winter hut or yourt, much dilapidated, and apparently long abandoned ; it was constructed partly by excavation ; the upper part appeared to be of mud and shingle ; around the interior, which formed an irregular ellipse, seats had been cut in the soil. On the 22nd (Sunday) Divine Service was _performed. The natives were allowed to come on board, but bartermg was prohibited, and they were made to understand, as well as might be, that one day in seven was set aside for rest and relaxation. This they seemed to comprehend, but were, nevertheless, greatly astonished. The thermometer was °

NATIVES REMAIN ON BOARD—THEIR FEAST. 19 restored to-day by the wife of the reputed thief, who thereupon received from our witty tars the cognomen of “Thermometer Jack.” During the night the wind increased to a gale, which, however, did not deter the natives from their accustomed visit. They brought accounts that the upper harbour was freezing over. In the afternoon the wind and sea became so boisterous, that our visitors were unable to return to shore ; their boats were hoisted up, and preparations made for their accommodation during the night.