A history of St. Lawrence and Franklin Counties, New York

Preface

. The interest which was manifested, in a lecture delivered in December, 1851, at Ogdensburgh, on the early history ofthe county, led to the belief that the subject was one that commended itself to the attention of the citi zens geneially,and induced the collection ofthe materials herewith offered to the public. To the numerous persons who have expressed an interest in the work, and in various ways aided in promoting it, our sincere thanks are tendered; but an attempt to enumerate those from whom facts and verbal statements were received, would be impossible. To the Hon. Henry S. Randall, secretary of state, and Mr. Archibald Camp bell, his deputy, are we \indebted, for access to the voluminous data which our state archives afford, and aid in procuring many facts not elsewhere existing. Dr. E. B. O'Callaghan has been of especial service, in directing our attention to various sources of information ; and Dr. T. Romeyn Beck, ill the loan of volumes relating to our subjects of investigation.

To Messrs. James H. Titus and A. O. Brodie, of New York, and to Henry E. Pierrepont, Esq., of Brooklyn, are our acknowledg ments due, for materials in aid of the work; as they are also to Dr. Amasa Trowbridge, of Watertown, and P. S. Stewart, Esq., of Carthage. The sketches from which most of the wood engravings were made, were, with the exceptions of the views of Gouverneur and Potsdam, drawn by Miss Levautia J. Woolworth, of Turin. To Elijah B. Allen, president of the Ontario and St. Lawrence Steam Boat Company, and Mr. T. P. Chandler, president of the Northern Rail Road Company, are we especially indebted, for facilities in collecting materials, and to the following citizens, for direct aid, and written me moranda, used in these pages, viz: the Hon. Messrs. Henry Van Rensse laer, John Fine, David C. Judson, Preston King,' Jas. G. Hopkins, Smith Stilwell and Bishop Perkins; the Rev. Messrs. L. M. Miller, J. P. Jen-' nings and H. R. Peters; to Drs.

S. N. Sherman and A. Tyler; and to Messrs. A. B. James, James C. Barter, Wm. E. Guest, A. C. Brown, L. Hasbrouck, B. H. Vary, H. F. Lawrence and R. G. Pettibone, of Og densburgh ; D. W. Church and C. Ford, of Morristown ; D. W. Baldwin and A. M. Church, of Rossie; H. D. Smith, Esq., C. Rich and Hon. E. Dodge, of Gouverneur ; Dr. D. Clark, Rev. R. Pettibone and Messrs. M.

PREFACE.

. Thatcher, J. L. Russell, Geo. S. Winslow, F. Wood and I. R. Tupper, of Canton; E. A. Dayton, of Columbia village; I. Ogden, of Wadding ton; Hon. Wm. A. Dart, L. and W. L. Knowles, S. Raymond, Wm. H. Wallace, J. Blaisdell, B. G. Baldwin, Rev. I. Allen, E. W. Foster, W. M. Hitchcock, and Rev. Andrews, of Potsdam; L. C. Yale, of Nor folk; Rev. W. Whitfield, of Pierrepont; Rev. O. M. Moxley, of Parish ville; Hon. H. Horton, Col. Charles L. Schlatter, F. Pellitier, S. C. F. Thorndike, A. B. Parmelee, G. Parker, Dr. E. Man, Dr. T. R. Powell, J. H. Jackson, U. D. Meeker, R. G. Foote, G. C. Cotton and Rev. A. Parmelee, of Malone; J. C. Spencer, of Fort Covington ; A. Fidton, ot Hogansburgh; and Rev. F. Marcoux,of St. Regis; and not least because last, to the several editors ofthe St. Lawrence Republican, Ogdensburgh Sentinel, The Laborer, Canton Independent, Potsdam Courier, St. Law rence Journal, Franklin Gazette and Frontier Palladium, are our cordial thanks tendered, for the kind attention they have bestowed upon the enterprise.

The indulgence of the reader is solicited towards the typographical errors, that must unavoidably occur among so many names and dates; and the assurance may be received, that such statements only are given, as are believed to be facts. It is at all times a delicate task to write upon subjects of history relating to those living, or about which many of the readers must know more than the writer. How nearly truth has been attained, the reader must decide. It has been our aim to be strictly impartial; to injure the feelings or the interests of none: to do justice to the resources of the country, and to the memories of those whose acts make up our history. Many links in the chain of events are want ing, and the data from which history is derived, are daily becoming lost. It has been our aim to rescue from oblivion the incidents that attended the feeble beginnings and early struggles of a district of country which a combination of favoring causes is destined to place high in rank of wealth and importance; and if our efforts shall in any degree tend to this end, by making known our resources and our advantages, a prominent object which has been constantly before us, will have been attained. FRANKLIN B. HOUGH. Albany, February 7, 1853. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Aboriginal, French And English History

Traces of ancient occupancy — Early discoveries — Journals of voyages — Founding of mission at la Presentation — Memoir of Picquet — Isle Royal fortified — Its seige and surrender — Account of Oswegatchie tribe, 17

Chapter II. St

REGIS. Its situation — Origin — Labors of Father Gordon, a Jesuit — Legend of the bell — Capture of Deerfield — Their action in the revolution — Treaties of various Indian tribes — Account of the Seven Nations of Canada — Their proceedings previous to the treaties — Doings at the first treaty — Account of subsequent treaties — Part taken in the war — Great mortality — Internal organization — Present condition — Names of places — Lives of several Indian chiefs, . . 110

Chapter III. Organization Of The Counties, Public Buildings, Etc

Original petition for organization of St. Lawrence county — Act of incorporation — Acts relating to the erection and removal of site of public buildings — Act incorporating Franklin county — Memoranda from county records, 204

Chapter IV. History Of The Land Titles

Tendency to spread of settlements after the Revolution — Early action of legislature for sale of lands — Resolutions of land commissioners — Sale of "ten towns " — Macomb's purchase — The islands — Titles of the several towns — Gospel and School lots — Old military purchase — Account of first surveys — Incidents, , 235

Chapter V. Organization And Settlement Of The Several Towns

List of towns in St. Lawrence county — Details and incidents relating to each — Lists of supervisors — Memoranda from town records — Religious societies — List of towns in Franklin county, with details, 266

Chapter VI. Societies And Associations

— THE PRESS — HISTORY OF ACADEMIES. Medical societies — Benevolent societies — Lyceums — Irish relief — Religious associations — Societies for mutual benefit — Masons — Odd Fellows — Rechab- VI CONTENTS. ites — Sons of Temperance — Protective unions — Agricultural societies — Insurance companies — Banks — Account ofthe local press — The several academies, 517

Chapter VII. Internal Improvements, Statistics, Etc

Proposed improvement in navigation of St. Lawrence — Improvements of the smaller rivers — Rail road history from the beginning — Statistics of Northern rail road — Potsdam and Watertown rail road — Telegraphs — Steam boats — State roads — Plank roads — Statistics of population — Pensioners in 1840 — Custom districts — Post offices — Lists of civil officers, 554

Chapter VIII. Biographical Notices

Russell Attwater, Thomas B. Benedict, John Boyd, James Campbell, D. W. Church, Thomas J. Davies. John Fine, S. Foote, D. Ford, N. Ford, Asa Hascall, Louis Hasbrouck, Roswell Hopkins, H. Horton, D. C Judson, R. McChesney, D. A. Ogden, David Parish, George Parish, H. Powell, B. Raymond, A. Richards, J. Rosseel. J. W. Smith, G. Smith, J. B. Spencer. R. Townsend, W. H. Vining, H. S. Waterhouse, Joseph York, Silas Wright, 5S4

Chapter IX Etents Of The War Of

1812-1815. First military organizations— Events at Ogdensburgh in 1812 — Affair at Toussant island — Attempt of the enemy in October — Descent upon Brockville Capture of Ogdensburgh — Details of Wilkinson's expedition, 617

Chapter X. The Patriot War Of

1837-1840 Causes— Destruction of steamer Caroline— Of steamer Sir Robert Peel— This act avowed— Affair at the Wind Mill, near Prescott— Official returns of killed and wounded— Outrages upon American steam boats on the St. Lawrence—Affair of the schooner Weeks— Trial and sentence of prisoners with ll9ts> ' 656

Chapter XI. Geology, Mineralogy, Meteorology, Etc

Extent of several rock formations— Mines and metalic veins— List of mineral localities— Meteorological notes, and memoranda of natural history, . . 675

Appendix

. Proclamation of Gov. Colden, announcing the surrender of Fort Levi— Account •of, by Knox— Superstitions— Note on Iroquois language— Biographical note on Stephen Van Rensselaer-On Hezekiah B. Pierrep^t-Stional nots 011 * " ' ' 704 lTOEX'

Introduction

. fEFORE entering upon the history of St. Lawrence and franklin Counties, it may not be amiss to glance at the condition of the country at the time of its settlement, that the difficulties of forming the first beginning, and the embarrasses which delayed their growth, may be duly appreciated. details of the minor events that make up the annals of rural districts, may want the dignity of history, but not the interest, especially to the citizens of these localities. At the time when settlements began, here, the river front of Canada, for most of the distance above Montreal, had been settled about twenty years, principally by tories, refugees from the States, at the time of the revolution. These were known as U. E. Loyalists,* and many of them suffered extremely from the privations incident to their forlorn condition, as great numbers fled precipitately from their homes, leaving their property to be confiscated, and although the British government gave them lands, and in various ways assisted them in settling on the St. Lawrence, yet there remained many inconveniences which time alone could remedy.

In the school of adversity they had learned the bitter ness of want, and were more willing to extend aid to others, from having felt its need, and they appeared much gratified when they learned that the south shore was to be settled. It is a well known fact, that permanent settlements were made at an early day along the St. Lawrence, at several places, and the features of that majestic river were familiar to these enterprising explorers, before New England had a white inhabitant. With an assiduity that does credit to their sagacity and forethought, they began at once the labor of concili ating the friendship, and securing the interests of the savages, that had previously roamed through the sorest in quest of game, or iu stealthy midnight inarches in search of some unsuspecting victim of revenge. The few traces which we possess of aboriginal occupation, bespeak a • U. E.— United English.

INTRODUCTION.

. military pursuit, and these probably extend back to an ante Columbian period, and show that whatever evil practices the natives may have de rived from Europeans, the art of war was at least indigenous on this con tinent, if it is not inherent in man's nature. These wandering tribes, recognizing but few objects as property, know ing few wants but those of the appetite, and having few thoughts or de sires above the groveling instincts of the brute creation, the French la bored to locate in permanent villages, to teach them the art of cultivating the earth, and of surrounding themselves with some ofthe conveniences of life. This was first attempted near the settlements at Montreal and Quebec, of which the present missions of St. Louis and Lorette are examples, but it was found that an atmosphere of moral desolation hung around the white settlements, peculiarly fatal to the natives, who were more easily corrupted than improved by associating with the whites.

These facts led to a desire for some other plan, which should attach the natives to the French, while it alienated them from the English. The result of these efforts was the establishment of an Indian settlement at the present village of Ogdensburgh, of the rise, progress and result of which, a detailed account is given in the following pages. In the war between the French and English, which resulted in the ascendency of the latter, our district became the theatre of active operations, and from the Indian settlement Swegatchi, there continually issued small war parties, who fell upon the feeble settlements of the Mohawk valley, and slew, scalped, plundered, and burned, without restraint. These cruel and wanton out rages, by the terror which they excited, to a considerable degree depopu lated the frontier settlements; nor was the cause of this annoyance re moved, until the final evacuation ofthe posts on the St. Lawrence, either with or without resistance, on the expedition of General Amherst in 1760.

During the American revolution, a similar series of incursions were instigated, under the direction of the British. The French had for many years ceased to be masters of Canada, but a great part of the population of the lower province was of that nation, and they long continued the carrying trade, by the toilsome navigation of the St. Lawrence, dragging their bateaux up the rapids with incred ible labor. These crafts usually proceeded in small brigades, and the fatigue of rowing was relieved by the rustic song of the steersman, in which the others joined in chorus, keeping time with the song in the measured dip of their oars. There was a poetry in these scenes, which impressed itself upon those who observed them, and some ofthe older inhabitants, recall with regret the memory ofthe cadence of the simple

INTRODUCTION.

. IX song.of the voyageurs, as it died away in feeble echoes .along the shore in the still evening. These have long since given place to the noisy steamer, that sends its swell to ripple along the banks, and the piercing note of the steam whistle, denotes the march of civilization, and gives promise of other and greater benefits, which the future has in store for us. At an early day, the improvement of the navigation of the river had been begun, by cutting canals, with locks, across some ofthe more difficult points in the rapids. The proprietors and agents of Northern New York, were originally more favored with facilities for introducing settlers upon their lands, than those of the fertile plains and valleys ofthe great west, because, although both were equally destitute of roads, the former had the advantage of distance, and emigrants from the New England states, could enter these counties, with much less time and expense than was required^ to perform the journey to the Genesee country and Ohio.

The route to the latter was through miry swamps, and along streams and valleys, which when overspread with the decaying foliage of a luxuriant vegetation, were infested with deadly miasms, and offered to the adventurous emigrant but little inducement for the exercise of in dustry, when his little earnings were liable to be demanded by the expenses of sickness, and his frame on alternate days, chilled, parched, and drenched, with fever and ague. Accordingly we find, that during the years between 1802 and 1807, the tide of emigration from that pro lific hive, Aeui England, poured into the valleys of the Black and St. Lawrence rivers, which settled with a rapidity, especially in the former, which has been seldom equaled. The proprietors seldom made their tracts their homes, but their agents were generally from the eastern states, and men of influence iu their own localities, and we find that the first settlers in the several towns were often from the same neighborhoods.

Winter was usually selected for moving, as the streams and swamps were then bridged by ice, and routes became passable which at other times would be wholly impracticable. A few ofthe first settlers entered with their families by the tedious and expensive navigation of the Mo hawk river, to Fort Stanwix, and thence by the canal at that place, through Wood creek, Oneida lake and river, Oswego river, lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence to their destination, and others by the equally toil some and more dangerous water route from lake Champlain, and up the St. Lawrence. The rumors of war which darkened the political horizon, stopped the growth of the country, and at its occurrence the X

INTRODUCTION.

. settlements diminished more rapidly than they had previously grown. The channel of trade down the St. Lawrence, which was fast becoming established was broken up, and the exigencies of the period, gave origin to the belief, that other avenues to market, independent ofthe casualties of war should be established, nor was this abandoned until by the most indefatigable exertions under repeated discouragements, the great want has been supplied, and there has not been in its history a period, when the suture was opening more pleasantly, than the present, inviting the investment of capital and industry, with the promise of rich returns. In tracing the birth and infancy of our settlements, through the weak ness, and perhaps the waywardness of inexperienced youth, up to the maturity of manhood, it has been our uniform desire to render impartial justice to the merits of those to whom belongs the credit of having met and overcome the difficulties of a new country, and through along course of years, with hope deferred, have waited and labored for the accomplishment of those objects which were calculated to secure a lasting benefit to the country.

About 1818, the first attempt was made to establish the dairy interest, a branch of agriculture which will, to a considerable de gree, supersede every other, as the broken nature ofthe surface, in towns underlaid by primary rock, renders pasturage the most profitable use to which much of the land can be applied. The direct access to the markets, at all times, which is now enjoyed, enables the farmer to avail him self of the calls of the market, aud derive every advantage that has hitherto been felt only by those living in the vicinity of large cities. Al though butter and cheese are required for consumption by millions, yet but a comparatively small part of our country is capable of producing them. The country that yields these articles is mainly limited to the northern border ofthe Union; the climate of the central and southern portions not being adapted to the purpose.

This species of husbandry likewise possesses the. elements of perpetuity within itself, from the very small amount of the produce of fields that are taken away. Of other sources of wealth our counties possess an enviable share, when these resources come to be known and appreciated, they can not but be im proved. The great and increasing amount of freight business done on the Northern railroad, and the corresponding addition to the commerce of the river and lakes to meet this road, bear evidence that the public are beginning to realize the advantages of the communication, and to reap the benefits to be derived from it. The Canadian system of rail roads in progress, is destined to exert a

INTRODUCTION.

. XI favorable influence upon the prospects of this section of the state, by di recting the tide of travel and business between the seaboard and the great west, through our midst, and the commercial interests ofthe country, with whom economy of time and money are leading questions, will not be long in findiug this as one ofthe most direct and eligible avenues. There at present exists a strong probability, that the desirable link between the Northern rail road and that from Rome to Cape Vincent, will be shortly built, which must tend greatly to promote the growth and wealth of the district through which it will pass, by placing it in com munication with the markets. The enterprise which has originated and sustained these aud other measures, tending to develop to the extent of their capacity, the resources of the country, may perhaps be traced to the restless progressive spirit characteristic of New England, from whence the mass of our population is derived.

Had any accidental circumstances thrown the fortunes of the war ot 1758-1760, into the opposite scale, giving to the French the ascendency, this district might have continued as it begun, inhabited by a French population, and exhibiting that stationary and neglected aspect still seen in their settlements below Montreal ; uuless, perhaps, the commercial wants of the country might have called forth the expenditure of ex traneous capital, in the opening of lines of communication. Thus the events of a remote historical period have modified the character of all that follow, and with those who take a pleasure in watching the relations of cause and effect, there can be nothing more instructive than observing how necessarily dependent upon the past are the events of the suture. 'she claims of history upon the attention of those who seek probabili ties in precedents, is therefore direct; and of an importance proportionate to the proximity of time and place, rather than the magnitude of the events.

The mighty changes in nations and empires, and the records of the virtues and vices of mankind which adorn or disgrace the pages of ancient history, are instructive as showing the lights and shades of hu man character, but they have to a great degree lost their practical bearing from their dissimilarity from existing conditions. Their consequences remain, but so interwoven in the fabric of our civilization, as to be in separable. The nearer we approach the present, the more obvious are the effects of causes, and there are few prominent events of American history, which have not left their operation upon existing conditions, and between which may be traced the direct relation of cause and consequence. In pursuing the history of any district, nothing is more obvious than the fact, that causes apparently the most trivial, often produce the most last-

INTRODUCTION.

. ing effects; and hence the minor details of a settlement, may possess in reality more importance than was attached to them at the time of their occurrence. To borrow the figure of Macauiey, " the sources of the noblest rivers, that spread fertility over continents and bear richly laden fleets to the sea, are to be sought in wild and barren mountain tracts, incorrectly laid down in maps, and rarely visited by travelers." To extend this figure we may add, that the slightest causes may give direction to the mountain rill, and thusinflueuce the course ofthe river,and the consequent fertility of the country which it irrigates. The origin of our va rious institutions, literary, civil, religious, and social, are especially sus ceptible of receiving their suture direction from causes operating at the time of origin ; and hence arises the importance of knowing these data, to be able to appreciate in its various bearings existing relations and agencies.

If this had been done in times past, an explanation would have been afforded of many events which otherwise appear obscure. The unappreciated facts of the present, are too apt to pass unrecorded and unheeded, until at some future time, their value becomes known in their want. The probabilities of the future, both with individuals and communities, are derived from the past. By comparing existing facts or circumstances, with similar ones that preceded them, of which the results are known, we infer the probable effects that will ensue in the case before us. To enable us to do this successfully, the past must be known, and thus history becomes our index to the future. By it we are enabled to shun the errors of others by knowing the consequences which ensue from given causes, and to gain those ends in which others have failed, by profiting from their experience.

The duties of the historian have been beautifully summed up by another, in the following language: " To gather from still living witnesses, and preserve for the future annal ist, the important record ofthe teeming and romantic past; to seize while yet warm and glowing, and inscribe upon the page which shall be sought hereafter, the bright visions of song, and fair images of story, that gild the gloom and lighten the sorrows of the ever present; to search all his tory with a careful eye ; sound all philosophy with a careful hand ; question all experience with a fearless tongue, and thence draw lessons to fit us for, and light to guide us through, the shadowy but unknown future." It has been our endeavor in the following pages, to act with strict im partiality in relation to local interests and natural advantages; to avoid any appearance that would lead to the suspicion that we wished to pro mote any sectional or local interest, or advance the personal sectarian or political measures of any person or class of persons.

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII Many subjects have been passed with a brief notice, that but from want of space, would have been more fully discussed, and numerous documents and data having a direct relation to the history of Northern New York, have been for the same reason entirely omitted. To this class belongs much relating to the events of the war, consisting of original letters, official despatches, an a* verbal statements; but perhaps enough will be found to satisfy the reader that with whatever merit or wisdom the measures of that period were planned, their execution was attempted in a manner that shows either an incapacity or disinclination on the part of the commanding officers for their successful accomplishment. The latter has been often suggested, but this question belongs not to our inquiries. In coining down to a still more recent period, and giving the details of a movement which threatened to disturb the peace of the country, a difficulty was felt in relating the events of the affair from the different and often conflicting statements of the cotemporary press, and the verbal accounts of parties who acted with, or who discouraged the affairs.

In our relation of these events, by being limited to an account of a few of the many acts that make up the history of the Patriot War, an oppor tunity was not afforded for exhibiting the movement in the light that would enable one to form a just estimate of its merits, and perhaps the time has not yet elapsed, when a candid opinion could be safely ex pressed, without encroaching upon the reputation of some of the agi tators and promoters of the scheme still living. The blood of the be trayed and unfortunate youths who fell at the wind mill at Prescott, and who suffered the death penalty in consequence of that affair, is upon the hands of those who incited them to the enterprise, but from which they kept themselves aloof. The tragic issue of this melancholy affair, like other and more recent ones of a similar class on the southern border of the Union, should serve as a warning beacon to guard against any movement having for its object, the forcing of our institutions upon a people who manifest no wish to receive them, but who, as in the above instan ces, evinced a spirit of resistance, and a vindictiveness, which proved the sincerity of their seeling.

It would have been pleasant, to have been able to extend the last chapter of the work, and especially to relate with greater detail the me talic and mineral resources of these counties, which deservedly enjoy a high reputation for their extent and value, and which have only begun to be developed. An enumeration of localities where metalic ores have been found, or indications observed that lead to the belief of their ex istence, would show that they are widely scattered over the primitive

INTRODUCTION.

. region, and will without doubt hereafter form a branch of industry of great prominence. This remark is especially applicable to the ores of iron. Of the minerals interesting to the man of science, and of no practical use, few sections afford so great a variety, or those of more elegance, than the western part of St. Lawrence county, and particularly the towns of Rossie, Gouverneur, Fowler, Edwards, and Hermon. A brief enumeration of these, with the towns in which they occur, is only given. To have specified the particular locality of each, would have been tedious, except to the collector. In the chapter of biographical notices, disappointment in not receiving materials where they were expected and had been promised, has de prived us of the ability of inserting several, that would have made a de sirable acquisition iu the history of Northern New York, from the pro minent and active part they took in its settlement, and in the title and transfer of lands, before purchased by actual settlers.

This branch of history is one of great importance, because the duty of the annalist is to a great degree but to record the acts of men, and the consequences growing out from them. In collecting the details of the settlements of several towns, a considerable amount of materials were procured, which have not been used, consisting mostly of the names and short memoranda of the early set tlers, and lists of those who first formed religious societies. There will probably be sound some errors in what is given, as from necessity the statements were often drawn from memory, and hence liable to uncertainty. Written memoranda, and records made at the time of occurrence, are in all cases to be preferred to the memory, how ever definite this latter may be, and this remark is equally applicable to every department of history.

In a few instances, we met with those who have habitually made a record of passing events, and thus were able to fix with much definite ness, the dates and circumstances of events which otherwise would have been obscure. This practice has in it that obvious utility and convenience, that commends itself to general adoption, and these memorials of the past lose none of their interest from age, but rather acquire new value in proportion as the event becomes distant. The reliance to be placed upon oral evidence depends upon so many contingencies, that it possesses every degree of probability, from absolute certainty to indefinite fable. The greater part of the following work relates to a period within the memory of those living, or of the generation immediately preceding the present. Of the occurrences half a century ago, the surviving witnesses who then knew most of them, have become