With the Beduins. A narrative of journeys and adventures in unfrequented parts of Syria ... Illustrations and a map

Front matter

WITH THE BEDUINS Gf dr, Son of Sheik Saleh of Kerak, and his Servant. WITH THE BEDUINS A NARRATIVE OF JOURNETS AND ADVENTURES IN UNFREQUENTED PARTS OF STRIA BY GRAY HILL " Already through each nerve a flutter runs Of eager hope, that longs to be away ; Already 'neath the light of other suns My feet, new winged for travel, yearn to stray." Martin's " Catullus " SIXTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP £o\\t>o\\ T. FISHER UN WIN PATERNOSTER SQUARE MDCCCXCI 2JfpeJMcatE THIS BOOK. TO MY WIFE

Preface

. BEFORE we made the journeys of which an account is given in the following pages, my wife and I had long felt attracted towards Syria. Many years ago we had visited Beyrout and Damas cus ; and on two occasions we had landed through the rolling waves at Jaffa while the coast steamer lay off the Port for the day, and had looked long ingly towards Jerusalem. After we had in our various autumn vacation trips coasted all round the Mediterranean Sea " from the Levant to the Pillars of Hercules," and from the gates of " the Propontic and the Hellespont " to the mouths of the Nile and the shores of Carthage, a time at last came when I was enabled to obtain a longer respite from the toils of a laborious profession, and we thus became free to choose our own season for an annual flight from the east winds and leaden skies of England.

Then we determined that we would explore the wished-for country. And so, in 1887, we had travelled by the beaten track with which all travellers must begin, and with which so many are either contented or compelled to end, visiting Jerusalem, and traversing the hills and valleys of Palestine to Shechem, Samaria, and the wide plain of

PREFACE.

. Esdraelon ; to Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee, Cæsarea Philippi, and the sources of the Jordan ; and to Mount Hermon, Damascus, Baalbek and Beyrout. In a month of riding and camping we had found new health and life, opened a fresh source of happiness, and imbibed somewhat of the spirit of the country. And from that time forth we have been drawn by an over powering force, to which we have now learnt gladly to yield ourselves, to devote all the time which we can spare from work-a-day existence to journeying in Syria. That which had charmed us most was the glimpse which we had gained into the life of the Arab Nomad tribes, and the silent impressiveness of the great Solitudes. To see something more of the simple pastoral existence of the Beduins, and to breathe the air of the wilderness ; to sit with Father Abraham under the great tent, and to behold Isaac and Jacob " in their habits as they lived ; " to watch the flocks and herds go forth to feed at dawn, and come home to the protection of the tents by the light of the setting sun ; to camp alone in solitary fastnesses, or upon boundless plains ; to gaze up into the starry depths of a Syrian night ; to see the great disc of the full moon rise across the " eastern desert lone " until the splendour of its light irradiates the barren gorges^ and changes the dark and silent surface of the Dead Sea into a " luminous floor of water," was what we now most ardently longed for.

In each succeeding year we have found greater and greater delight in the pursuit of our desire ; and although the fascinations of travel have brought some anxious experiences, and involved some serious risks, —

PREFACE.

. 9 and indeed in the spring of the present year was the cause of our finding ourselves on more occasions than one in a situation of a most disagreeable and alarming kind, — we still look forward with all the pleasures of hope to again and again revisiting that strangely atttactive land, and to the glad welcome at the little landing-place at Jaffa of those servant-friends whose fidelity and affec tion have added so greatly to the enjoyment of our wanderings. The things which we have seen and the little adventures which have befallen us have proved so interesting to ourselves, that we have thought that thev might also interest the public. Whether they will do so depends much upon the manner of relating them, and unfortu nately I am inexperienced in authorship. I can " only ■speak right on."

But if, as I fear, I cannot succeed in making what I have to say attractive, I will, at any rate, try to make it clear ; and I will do my best to avoid the "limbs and outward flourishes" of tediousness. And the illustrations, which are principally from sketches and photographs taken by my wife, may in some imperfect way hold as " 'twere the mirror up to nature " in some places where nature has not yet been reflected. I am keenly alive to the shortcomings of my narra tive. It does not report the discovery of any long-lost inscription, or record the survey of any unmapped hill, valley, or stream. It will not serve the purposes of an ordinary guide book ; nor has it scholarship to recom mend it to those readers who, being unable to visit the Syrian land in the flesh, can only travel through it in imagination. The places which it describes are known

PREFACE.

. 10 to travellers, though many of them are but rarely visited ; and the events which it records are not of public interest. It simply tells the story of journeyings which have been delightful to us, and of vicissitudes on which memory dwells happily ; for " as it is pleasant to see the sea from the land, so it is pleasant for him who has escaped from troubles to think of them." If, then, critic or reader be disposed to think the recital of our wanderings superfluous I shall not quarrel with his judgment. One portion at least — the " Stories of Abou Suleyman " of which I place a selection before the reader calls for no apology. They were written down by me as I heard them, and are as far as possible in the words of the narrator ; for they seemed to me as interesting in matter as they are quaint in style. Mere Hall, Birkenhead. October, 1890. PAGE 39 CONTENTS. Preface ........... 7 Table of Contents . . . . . . . .11 List of Illustrations ....... 24

Part I

1888. ■EAST. OF -THE JORDAN.

Chapter 1

The Journey to the Jordan ...... 29 We send for the Adwan Sheiks — George Mabbedy our Dragoman — The making of the contract for our safe conduct — We set out — The new road to Jericho — The hermits' caves — A stormy night — Bathing in the Dead Sea under difficulties — A header into the Jordan — The lessons of experience.

Chapter II

The Camp of the Adwan The bridge over the Jordan — Ascending from the plain — Views of the Judæan hills — "Is London as big as Jerusalem ? " — The Jewish ruins at Arak el Emir — Oleanders — Ascending the hills of Gilead — The Adwan camp at Hesban — Ali Diab — His allowance of wives — CONTENTS. 12 PAGE A feast in the great tent — A Beduin bride — Miss Finkel stein's lectures — A ride on the bride's camel.

Chapter III

Mount Nebo 51 The Spring of Moses — Rainv weather — The land of milk and honey — Natural facilities for the cultivation of the Jordan valley — An offer to purchase it from the Sultan.

Chapter IV

Mashita . . . . . . . '. '. -55 Objections of our Adwan guides to take us to Mashita — Description of our guides — Reconnoitring — On the look out tor the Beni Sokr — Description of the ruins at Mashita — We proceed to Amman — A supposed spy — The Adwan propose to kill him.

Chapter V

Amman and Es Salt . . . . . . .61 A pleasant country — Old tombs — Abou Seyne steals a horse — Roman remains at Amman — The Circassians — They decline to wash for Christians — The citadel — The Persian building — Uriah the Hittite — Strange geological formation — We give our guides a sheep — Their manner of cooking the meat — We set out for Es Salt — Misdeeds of Abou Seyne — Description of Es Salt — The Kaimakam threatens to arrest us — Ali Diab comes to plead for a murderer — We proceed to 'Ain Roman — The Turcomans — The gorge.

Chapter VI

Jerash .......... 68 Over hill and dale — We cross the Zerka and camp amongst the ruins of Jerash — The Circassians — The street ot columns — The Adwan men leave us — A fantasia — The Sheik of Suf becomes our guide — Moonlight at Jerash — The Beni Sokr and their Remington rifles. CONTENTS. 13 PAGE

Chapter VII

Ajilun and El Husn ....... 73 The forest land of Gilead — A rocky glen — Ajilun — The Kaimakam — How he pacified the district — The natural richness of the country — The Greek priest — The Crusader's castle — The shoemaker — The bridal procession — Gainsborough's country — The plain of the Western Hauran — Damascus in the distance — Fever and an anxious night — Is this our journey's end? — A removal to a healthier spot — St. Lazarus' Day — Representation of the miracle — A wild night — The wedding procession again — A cave for the horses and mules — The dead mare — A blood feud.

Chapter VIII

Gadara — A Night Attack . . . . . .81 Umkeis — A charming country — The gorges of the Yarmuk — Old tombs — The ruins of Gadara — We en camp in view of the Sea of Galilee — Bad repute of the people of Umkeis — We are awaked by firing — Rats in a trap — The assailants driven off — The negro of Irbid — The moon rises — We depart betimes and ford the Yarmuk.

Chapter IX

The Sea of Galilee ....... 85 The sulphur springs of Amatha — The " warawaras "• A bathe in the lake — Dangers of the Jordan where it leaves the lake — We ford the river and reach Tiberias — Heat and flies — A remedy — The missing lady — Khan Yubb Yusef — Capernaum and Bethsaida — The Jordan where it enters the lake — Different aspects of the lake — Safed — Extensive view — The Jews of Safed — Descent to the Sea of Galilee — The Indian Dervish — Ravines and caves — The land of Gennesaret — The Wady Hammam— The Robbers' Castle — The village of Hattin. CONTENTS. 14 PAGE 104

Chapter X

The. Druses — Hattin and Mount Tabor . . -93 The Mount of the Beatitudes — George has fever — A Druse guard — Awakened again with firing — Only a hyena — The mosque of the Druses — Their regrets that Russia had taken India — The late Laurence Oliphant — A procession of Druses — The Horns and plain of Hattin — The sea of barley — The merry muleteer — We ascend Mount Tabor — The view from the top — Deborah — We proceed to Nazareth.

Chapter XI

From Nazareth to Carmel ...... 99- Religious intolerance — The plain of Esdraelon — The woodland borders of the Kishon — Haifa — The German colony — Mount Carmel — The monastery — Too hot to get to Acre — Our waiter proposes — The medicine of the monastery proves of value — The work of the German colonists — A stormy night.

Chapter XII

We end our Journey — George and his Family We descend to the sea and travel southwards — The Crocodile River — Athlit — The last holding of the Crusaders — Kaisariyeh — The plain of Sharon — Fear of the Beduins — Mutual distrust — Haram Sidin Ali Ibn 'Alim — The mad woman — We are reported to be murdered — George's nephew — The last evening in camp — The last ride — George's family — Last view of Jaffa. CONTENTS. 15 PAGE 130

Part II

1889. PHILISTIA AND PALMYRA.

Chapter I

The Journey to Gaza . . . . . . .113 Arrival at Jaffa — Across the plain of Sharon to Ramleh- We turn to the South — El Mughar — Esdud — Askalon — George's opinions about the stars — Gaza — The missionary — A Moslem funeral — Mount Muntar.

Chapter II

To Beersheba and Beit Jibrin . . . . .118 The Beduin and the soldier — Tell Sheriah — A crane like shepherd — Flights of storks — A barren land — Abra ham's well — " What is a picture r " — Supper and breakfast by moonlight — The complaint of the Nubian — Long ride to Beit Jibrin.

Chapter III

By Hebron and 'Ain Jidy to Jerusalem . . .123 Ruins at Beit Jibrin — Journey to Hebron — Mamre — A wild night — The cave of Macpelah — We leave Hebron — A Beduin camp — A quarrel — Magnesium light — The pass of 'Ain Jidy — Magnificent view — 'Ain Jidy — A Syrian night — Journey through a rugged country to Bethlehem — Jerusalem.

Chapter IV

From Jerusalem to Beisan, Muzeyrib, and Damascus From Jerusalem to Jenin — Jezreel — Beisan — Across the Jordan and up the eastern hills — A thief — His brother seized — Muzeyrib — The Hadj station — Damascus. CONTENTS. 16 PAGE

Chapter V

From Damascus to Palmyra . . . . . • !3" Difficulties of the journey to Palmyra — A garden of roses — No one allowed to go to Palmyra this year — Sheik Nasr undertakes to conduct us — Our departure — The gardens of Damascus — A rocky gorge — The source of a stream — Saidnaya — Our muleteers lose their way, and we pass the night in a village — Sheik Nasr finds us — Rocky heights and cold winds — Ma'lula — Great heat — Nebk — Mahin — Karyaten — The waterless desert begins — "Why had we come without an escort ? " — Expedition against the predatory Beduins — We are offered an escort — An evening start — Out into the desert — The Sirocco — Who are these ? — The escort — Riding through the night — The illusions of the desert — Giants become goats — A welcome draught of milk — El Beda — A bite from a horse — Palmyra at last.

Chapter VI

Tadmor in the Wilderness ...... 147 Did Solomon build Palmyra ? — The rise of its greatness — The caravan track— -Public monuments — The great arcade — Appearance of the streets — The great tombs — Zenobia — Her defeat at Emesa, and capture — Taking of Palmyra by Aurelian — Palmyra re-discovered bv English travellers — Present state of the ruins — Recent discovery of sweet water — Underground conduits — Digging for water — The Teskere — The French lady — Newly discovered sculptures — The trade in heads of statues — The governor speaks of the enormity of it, and offers us a good one — Destruction of our photographs.

Chapter VII

The Return Journey . . . . . . .158 The heat drives us away — A last look — Seven hundred camels — Nasr kisses his brethren — El Beda again — A burning sand-laden wind — Shelter at last — The old irri- CONTENTS. 17 TAGE gation pits — An extra guard — A long ride — High hills and bitter winds — We leave the desert and part with the soldiers — A Beduin outpost — "Come you in peace, or come you in war ? " — The Sheik on the white horse — Preparing for an attack — The men behind the hill — Shelter from the blast and a fire of cow dung — Horns — The country house of Lady Ellenborough — Sheik Nasr — The curiosity of the women — The Orontes — Back to Damascus and Jerusalem — Our last ride—The sagacity of a dog — Werdie's fate.

Part III

1890. ADVENTURES SOUTH AND EAST OF THE DEAD SEA.

Chapter I

Our Journey towards Petra — Arar's Messenger The difficulty of getting to Petra — We are warned against the attempt, but are obstinate — Sheik Selim Abou Dahook — A long negotiation — The Jehalin men — Our attendants — We leave our valuables behind — Precautionary measures — Letters and presents for the Sheik of Petra — The tribes reported at peace — The Kaimakam of Hebron — Journey to the Dead Sea — We get within two days of Petra — Arar's messenger — Arar's seal — Fighting amongst the Beduins — We cannot proceed — How Arar had known of our coming — The scene at Zuweireh — We meet the Petra men there who take the Consul's letter to Arar — The messenger pursued by Howeytat men — We return to 'Ain el Beda and determine to proceed to Kerak. 171

Chapter II

The Howyetat — A very anxious Night 180 A desolate country — We encamp at 'Ain el Beda — The thicket of reeds — Arrival of Howeytat men — Their CONTENTS. PAGE arms and their behaviour — "The cry is, Still they come" — How many more, and will they attack us ? — The camp fires of the Howeytat — Will our Jehalin escort be firm ? — Preparations for a defence — A watch all night — The dawn appears at last — Backsheesh — Circuitous route across the Ghor — Another Howeytat— We enter the territory of the Ghawarineh.

Chapter III

The Ghawarineh — We are threatened again — Arar assists us . . . . . . . .186 Arar's cousin threatens Sheik Selim — " / will take you to Petra " — The villainous Sheik of the Ghawarineh demands 100 medjidies — Arar's brother arrives — Unpleasant situa . tion — We send messengers to Kerak — A brawl arises — Arar's brother stills it — Sunset on the red mountains — Mosquitoes — Arar's conduct — The Sheik of the Ghawarineh raises his demand — We refuse to pay him — Journey to Nimeirah — The east shore of the Dead Sea — A red gorge — The heat — A messenger returns and the Keraki arrive .

Chapter IV

The Keraki — Trap No. I — Sheik Saleh . . . I y 3 The Keraki are most polite — The Jehalin men leave us — The journey to El Draa — The Keraki induce us to camp there — Arrival of Mejelli — Impracticability of reaching Petra via Kerak and Ma'an — Isolation of Kerak — More Keraki arrive — Another red gorge — Beauty of the scene — " What do you intend to give us ? "—Exces sive demands — Lies — The Christian scamp — Sixty napoleons the lowest — Letter from Sheik Khalil — His position at Kerak — We prefer to go back — "You shall not stir until you pay sixty napoleons " — Appeals to the honour of a man who has none — Impossibility of resist ance — Saleh agrees to take us through his territory — We ascend the pass of Wady Kerak — Strange caverns — Quarrelling over the booty — Strong position of Kir of CONTENTS. 19 PAGE Moab and the Kerak territory — The fighting strength of the tribe and number of the population — Experiences of previous travellers.

Chapter V

The English Missionaries ...... 204 Mr. Lethaby — We enter Kerak — Mrs. Lethaby and the mission room — Mr. Lethaby's history — Heroic conduct ot the missionaries — The perils and annoyances to which they are exposed — The difficulty of communication with the outside world — Sheik Saleh's manoeuvre to get all the money for himself — No sleep for George — Messages from Sheik Khalil — His two sons — We manage to keep back a portion of the money — We descend the hill — My wife's strength fails — Mrs. Lethaby accompanies her — Sheik Khalil and his followers.

Chapter VI

The Keraki — Trap No. 2 — Sheik KhalIl . . .212 Ar of Moab — Ancient ruins — -The encampment of Sheik Khalil — We are forced to stop — We eat with Khalil — Deceitful meat — The Hameydeh men will come next — Khalil demands sixty napoleons — We call on Saleh to perform his agreement — Consultations and appeals — The lying of Saleh — He will not divide with Khalil, and satis faction must come from our pockets — An unsatisfactory present — A compromise agreed on — But Saleh gallops off with the money, and leaves us in Khalil's hands — Threatening aspect of affairs — The greedy Ibrahim — The cry for the money — We have not got it — Mrs. Lethaby returns to Kerak — The insolence of Ibrahim — A paternal rebuke — They will starve us into payment — The Chris tian boys supply us with food — No money to be obtained from Kerak — We are allowed to send to Madeba or, failing success there, to Jerusalem — We write our letters — A new proposal — The offer of the Christian shepherd — He is driven away — They must have the money — Our CONTENTS. 20 PAGE 224 231 237 " Holy Man " leaves for Jerusalem — More threats — The old muleteer — Preparations for an escape.

Chapter VII

We await the Return of the " Holy Man " . My wife's speech to the Sheiks — Its success — Sheik Faris wishes to go to England with us — Things go more smoothly — We take some portraits — Tempestuous weather — Anxiety about the messenger — The Christian boys — A murder at Kerak — The rain — George ill — We are invited to build a house at Kerak— The Christian shepherd makes a propitiatory feast — A welcome piece of ham — The Hameydeh men are waiting for us — The return of the "Holy Man."

Chapter VIII

We get free from the Keraki and cross Mojeb We are forced to pay in advance, and surrender the presents intended for Arar, &c. — My wife puts an end to Ibrahim's demands — We have to make a detour — Uncertainty whether we shall really get away — The Hameydeh — We descend Mojeb and cross the Arnon — The mares and their foals — The pride of Moab — How to bring Kerak into order — The Keraki hand us over to the Hameydeh.

Chapter IX

The Hameydeh — We decline to be stopped again The number and equipment of the Hameydeh — A pleasant lunching place — The Keraki reascend the pass on the south side — Our toilsome ascent on the north side — The Hameydeh try to stop us, but we show fight and push on — An exciting half-hour — Eleven hours in the saddle — An eventful Good Friday — Will the Hameydeh send for more men ? — An early start — We pay only what we had promised, and give them a truthful certificate — A Christian would-be robber. CONTENTS. 21 PAGE 246 256

Chapter X

Madeba and Mount Nebo once more .... 243 In sight of Madeba — Peace at last — -Senah the Sheik of Madeba — Kind reception — The City of Refuge — Roman remains — Easter Sunday — We take tea on Pisgah, and our good old cook offers up a thanksgiving.

CHAPTER XL

Abou Seyne — The Kaimakam of Es Salt again Senah's efforts to assist us — He urges us to ask for redress — -We send to Jerusalem and proceed to Hesban — Death of Zatam el Faiz — We revisit Mashita and Hesban where Turkish soldiers find us — We revisit Amman — Abou Seyne joins our party — His skill in horsemanship, &c. — The Beni Sokr chiefs — Complimentary speeches — We enter Es Salt and visit the Kaimakam — Curiosity of the people — Taking down the deposition — An adventure of Abou Seyne. ™

Chapter XII

George's Patron Saint— The Governor of the Hauran El Bukeia — The Beni Hassan — Og's dominions — St. George — Jerash — Tekitty — ■ The governor of the Hauran — The Beni Sokr sheiks again.

Chapter XIII

The Hauran — The Druses „ . . 262. Our guards — Wooded country — Destruction of trees — Rantha — Abou Seyne's compliment — Og's capital — Busrah — Strange nature of the country — Ruined towns — Roman remains at Busrah — Bartering bottles for eggs — Stormy weather — The Roman road to Salkad — Diffi culty of the journey — -The Castle of Salkad — The filthy streets — A staring crowd — A blood feud — The Druses threaten to kill Abou Seyne, and we retrace our steps — His proposed revenge — Horses fighting — We cross the Hadj road and revisit El Husn — The Greek priest. CONTENTS. 22

Chapter XIV. Page

The Journey back to the Jordan Valley — The Old Priest of Ajilun . . . . . ■ • 272 Ride to Ajilun — Our patients — The old priest — An opening for a medical practice — The beautiful Wady Ajilun — Descent to the plain of the Jordan — The Dolmens — A patron saint of the Beduins — A present from a sheik — "Tells" in this neighbourhood.

Chapter XV

We Ford the Jordan — A Night March . . . 277 The ride to the Jordan — The Sheik of the ford — Cross ing the river — Regret at leaving the east side of the Jordan — Shakespeare's birth and death-day — We get up too soon — A dance — Abou Seyne leaves us — Riding in the dark — The coming of the day — A man of the Keraki — We end our journey and encamp on our own freehold — " Why should you leave us ? "

Part IV

■THE STORIES OF ABOU SULEYMAN. An Ill-assorted Marriage ....... 285 The Daughter of the Sheik ...... 286 The Circassians ........ 289 The Refugees ......... 290 The Bandit ......... 291 Sheik Goblan .... ... 292 A Gospel Precept ... . 294 Snakes — I. The Man of Nablous ..... 294 II. By the Jordan ... ... 296 HI. The Man of Jaffa . . . . * . .298 IV. Abou Suleyman . . . . . .298 V. The Snake and the Baby . . 299 Crossing the Jordan ..... . 300 The Consul ... . ?oo CONTENTS. 23 PAGE The Thieves and the Donkey ...... 302 The Slave and his Lord at Tiberias ..... 302 Ghosts — I. The Black Dog ..'... 304 II. The Strange Knock ..... 304 III. Royal Ghosts ....... 305 The Quarrelsome Man ....... 305 Cholera .... ...... 306 Abou Suleyman's Grandmother ...... 306 The last Words of" a Bcduin Sheik ..... 307 Religious Animosities in Jerusalem — I. Jews and Copts ...... 308 II.

Jews and Copts ...... 309 III. Mahommedans and Copts .... 309 IV. The Copts — A House divided against Itself . 310 V. The Copts — A Reconciliation . . . 311 VI. The Conversion of the Jews . . . .312 FABLES. I. Abou Seyne (the Father of Naughtiness) . . . 314 II. The Mouse's Visit 316 III. The Donkey and the Sheep 317

Appendix

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Part I. Page

I. Gudr, son of Sheik Saleh of Kerak, and his servant Frontisp 2. Detail of sculpture — Mashita. (Drawn from an imperfect photograph by F. Wiltshire) . To sice page 3. Platform of the Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem 4. George Mabbedy ....... 5. The River Jordan .... To face page 6. Mashita ......... 7. Part of south front of enclosure wall, Mashita. (Drawn from an imperfect photograph by F. Wiltshire) 8. Cattle in the Zerka near Amman .... 9. Jerash ......... 10. South end of the Sea of Galilee ..... II. North end of the Sea of Galilee ..... 12. Haifa and the Bay of Acre from Mount Carmel 13. Nahr el Auja, a river near Jaffa .... 14. Leaving Jaffa ........ lece 29 29 32 38 55 60 61 72 85 92 102 104 1 10

Part II

15. Palmyra in 1750. (From Wood and Dazvkins, "The Ruins of Palmyra ") . . . To face page 113 1 6. Nearing Jaffa ..... 17. Fountain near Jaffa \ 18. The Plain of Sharon ) 19. The Dead Sea from the Pass of 'Ain Jidv 20. The Sheik of Hebron .... • H3 To face page 114 . 118 To face page LIST OF ILL USTRA TIONS. 25 PAGE 21. Hebron 22. Group of Arabs, Hebron ...... 23. The Jordan Valley ....... 24. Muzeyrib ........ 25. Riding in the Desert ....... 26. Nebk 27. Small Temple, Palmyra . . . To face page 28. Gateway and part of Colonnade, Palmyra 29. Part of Colonnade, Palmyra . . To face page 30. Arab entrance to the Temple of the Sun, Palmyra 31. Great Temple of the Sun, Palmyra . To face page 32. Sculpture, Palmyra . . . . - . 33. Column, Palmyra '....... 34. Last View of Palmyra ...... 35. Werdie crossing the Desert . . . . . 123 I29 130 '35 136 I40 I46 H7 I48 I52 152 155 157 I58 l67

Part III

36. Keraki discussing the division of the spoil. Mountains of Wady Kerak at the back . . To face page 171 37. Petra (after Roberts) ...... 172 38. Passing lebel Usdum (Mountain of Sodom)) „- - « \ i t> 1 - 1 To face page 1 74 39. Sheik Abou Dahook and his Slave I 4.0. West of the Dead Sea) , . . _„ ,,_< t • . . . so face page 170 41. East of the Dead Sea) 42. On the march near where Arar's mes- \ senger turned us back . . . \ To face page 178 43. Mare and foal in the Desert . . j 44. Zuweireh el Tahta . . . . . . . 179 45. A halt — Looking out for Beduins . j 46. 'Ain el Beda. Beduins of the Howeytat - To face page 180 tribe come out of the reeds . . ' 47. A Wady south of the Dea Sea 185 48. The Dead Sea from Nimeirah 186 49. We enter the territory of the Ghawarineh \ 50. Arar's brother assists us against the \ To face page 1 85 Ghawarineh . . . . ) LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.