Travels through the Canadas, ... to which is subjoined a comparative view of the manners and customs of several of the Indian nations of North and South America, etc

Front matter

TRAVELS THROUGH THE CANADA S, CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE PICTURESQUE SCENERY ON SOME OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES ; WITH AN ACCOUNT OP THE PRODUCTIONS, COMMERCE, AND INHABITANTS OF THOSE PROVINCES. TO WHICH IS SUBJOINED A COMPARATIVE VIEW OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF SEVERAL OF THE INDIAN NATIONS OF NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA. BY GEORGE HERIOT, ESQ. Deputy Post Master General of Lritish Worth America. ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, FROM DRAWINGS MADE AT THE SEVERAL PLACES BY THE AUTHOR LONDON : PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, NO. 6, BRIDGE-STREET, BLACKFRIAR?. 1807. By T. Gjllet, Wild-court.

Preface

. THE first part of the following work was writ ten with the design of conveying an idea of some of the picturesque scenery of the Saint Lawrence, at once the largest and most wonderful body of fresh waters on this globe. Numbers of tributary streams, some of which are of immense magnitude, disembogue themselves into this gi gantic flood, which, from its principal source, Lake Su perior, to its junction with the Ocean, parts with none of its waters, but rolls thither all that it receives. The restless impetuosity of many of these streams has furrowed up the surface of the land, and produced objects of stupendous grandeur. Several of these awful and sublime operations of -Nature, have hitherto been visited hy a small portion only of civilized men. Her most wild features, her most striking and attractive charms, are fre quently concealed in the midst of unfrequented deserts.

To the picturesque description of the scenes in Ca nada, is added that of the climate and productions of a PREFACE, IV the country, of the manners and character of the inhabit ants, also of those of the domiciliated Indians, and of tribes which occupy or frequent situations on the borders of the great lakes. A brief dissertation respecting the commerce and constitution of the Canadas is likewise subjoined. An opportunity of visiting the Azores having been presented to the Author during his voyage to America, he has made two of the most celebrated of these isles the subject of tlie commencement of this tour. In drawing up the second part, recourse was* had to documents found in the library of the Jesuits at Quebec, and to Memoirs, Travels, and other works, which have been published at different periods.

As some of these are written in the English language, it was conceived unne cessary to make any material alteration in the stile of the passages which have been borrowed from them. A list of such authorities as have been consulted will be found below.* A portion of the information has been derived from living observation, communicated by men on whose * List of books consulted in drawing up the foregoing work : Mœurs des Sauvages Ameriquains, &c. Par le P. Lafiteau. Histoire Philosophique et Politique-r-Raynal. Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses. Voyages de la Hontan. Voyages deTAbats. Robertson's History of America, Mackenzie's Journal. de la Potherie. de Bougainville. Vancouver's Voyages . Religious Ceremonies. de la Perouse.

PREFACE.

. V veracity a reliance could be placed. A residence in Ca^ nada for a series of years, has afforded to the author op portunities of witnessing the modes of life pursued by se veral of the Indian nations, and has enabled him to adduce what he has himself observed, as well as to reject what he deemed improbable in the writings he consulted. Amid the multitude of tribes scattered throughout the extensive regions of America, it appears singular that there should be found in use a distinct language peculiar to each, and frequently customs which have but little affinity to those of neighbouring associations. Among many, ceremonies and practices are found resembling those of the former inhabitants of countries in the ancient hemisphere. When there appears any striking similarity with respect to usages, among people far remote from each other, it is remarked in the following pages.

The events which take place among men, many of whom are but little removed from the rude simplicity of a state of nature, appear to present but a barren field for narration. The natives of America seem to possess but little variety in their character or customs, and to be in capable of attaining any great degree of improvement. Their passions exhibit a resemblance to the vast inequalities of the climates to which their bodies are exposed. Like the elements, they are either lulled to stilness, or roused into unrelenting fury. VI PREFACE* The almost infinite diversity of tongues spoken by the inhabitants of America, and the difficulties encoun tered in the endeavour to attain a knowledge of some of them, render it impracticable to afford any very satisfac tory information on the subject of language.

In the last chapter, however, will be found a Vocabulary of the Al gonquin Tongue, whose use is the most extensive of any in North America. Quebec, 26th August, 1806. - . CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Page Azores : original discovery : romantic appearance. Island of Saint Michael : Ponta del Gada : valley of Furno : cavern of Boca de Inferno ; gulph of Sete Cidades : culture : -productions of the country : amenity of situations. Island of Pico : View from the summit of the peak j influence produced on the mind by positions of extraordinary elevation : height of the peak : state of thermometer : grandeur of that mountain when viewed from the sea r- 1

Chapter II

Banks of Newfoundland : uncommon appearance of vessels engaged in the fishery t great bank '. cause of the fogs : cod-fish : mode of catching and preparing it : of drying and packing : vessels employed in the commerce : produce of that branch. Island of Newfoundland : Eskimaux, the only natives seen there : account of that race of men. Original discovery of Newfoundland : harbour of Saint John : scaffolds : she town : sterility of soil : uninviting climate : colonization prohibited : importance in a political view : islands of ice : Saint Pierre and Miquelon : Cape Breton — — 15

Chapter III

Gulph of Saint Lawrence. Prince Edward's island. Bird isles. Chalcur's bay: its commerce, and that of Gaspe :. state of agriculture : route to the capital : perforated rock : the Ganet: mouth of the Great River : Anticosti : wild aspect presented by the coasts on either side the river. River Saguenay : waterfal :. boldness of shores : immense depth: king's posts: account of the mountaineers : Malbay: Coudres. Saint Paul's bay : Camourasca : Island of Orleans. — — 3( CONTENTS,

Chapter IV

Page Quebec: description of that city : romantic situation : natural strength : religious orders, and their establishments : ship-building : interesting scene displayed from point Levi : extensive and grand landscape presented from the heights to the w estward of the garrison. River Montmorenci : natural steps : sublime waterfal : basin, and its strata : description of the fall as seen from the coast of the Saint Lawrence — 62

Chapter V

Jeune Lorette : domiciliated natives : mode of dancing. The Saint Charles : cascades on that river. The Chaudiere : description of its fall : appearance in winter. Island of Orleans : views from thence : soil. North coast of the Saint Lawrence. Cape Tourment. River Saint Anne : its waterfals : lower fall described. La Puce : romantic falls of that little river : various landscapes. Lake Saint Charles : picturesque combinations so

Chapter VI

Country to the westward of Quebec. Lake Calviere. ThcJacquesCartier: romantic scenery which it displays. Town of Three Rivers. Lake Saint Peter. Town of William Henry. River Chambly. Island of Montreal : religious orders, and their establishments : view from the summit of the mountain. Indian village of the Sault Saint Louis : La Chine : Lake St. Louis : cascades : rapids of the Cedars : of the coteau du Lac : Lake Saint Francis : cascades of the Long Sault : multitude of isles — — — . 97

Chapter VII

Description of Kingston in Upper Canada : lake Ontario : bay of Quinte : excellence of its soil : Toronto, or York, the capital : Burlington bay: river Onondago : romantic cascades: Genesee river: -waterfal : forts and town of Niagara : superior advantages enjoyed by settlers on the banks of the Saint Lawrence : rapid increase of population, and prosperous state of the province : Queenstown : the whirlpool : stupendous mnjesty of the falls of Niagara : cascades : village of Chippawa — — — CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VIII

" ; ■ Pagt- Sublime subject of the falls further .pursued. Lake Erie : Amherstburg : the Detroit : Sandwich : old town of Detroit : beauty and fertility of the country. River and lake of St. Claire : La Tranche, or Thames : settlements on its borders. Lake Huron : Bay of Thunder : Michilimakinac : lake Michigan : Green bay : inhabitants : Saint Joseph : cascades of Saint Mary. Address of the Indians : ancient Hurons, and other native tribes. Lake Superior : remarkable transparency of its waters : grand portage : new establishment on the Kamanistigua — — — — 1G9

Chapter IX

Commerce of Canada : fur trade : paper money : seigneuries : rights of their proprietors : moderate appointments of colonial officers : mal-administration of finance during the French government : state of Canada at its conquest : progressive improvement : revenue : yearly equipment and transport in the fur trade : voyageurs : hardiness and mode of life: difficulties of navigation on the Outaouais river: romantic waterfals : portages — — — — 208

Chapter X

Former state of colonial government. Introduction of the criminal code of England. Quebec Bill. New constitution : sketch of that system. Division of Canada into two provinces ; and of these into counties : advantages of Canadian settlers : state of society : manners : character of the habitants, or landholders : mode of clearing lands : acquisition of property : seigneuries: produce of soils : agriculture. Upper Canada : cold, and causes of its long domination : travelling in winter; roads: houses — — — — 244 l_By a mistake of the Compositors, the following Chapters were misnumbered . J b CONTENTS,. X

Chapter XII

Page Americans in general. The Iroquois : their villages : habitations of various sedentary tribes : dwellings and temples of the Peruvians : of the natives on the borders of the Oroonoque, the river of the Amazons, &c. : several erratic tribes: the Caraibs, Brazilians: dress of some South Americans : of the Moxes : Patagonians : practice of tatooing : mode of painting : natives of Vera Cruz : Tetons : Cances : Hietians : Dog-rib Indians : Knisteneaux: Chipeweyans : natives of the north-west coast : of Darien dr Panama : of Yucatan: Mexicans 271

Chapter XIII

Mode of courtship and marriage among severaL northern tribes : the Moxes: marriage of the Incas of Peru : the passion of love but faintly prevalent among the Americans : the Mexicans : several other nations : of divorce: American women not prolific : celebration of marriage among the Peruvians : attachment of Indian women to their children : system of education : appearance and characters of some tribes : anecdotes : attachment to their mode of life : Baron de Saint Casteins — — — — — — 321

Chapter XIV

Belief of a future existence generally prevalent among savages : the sun a principal object of adoration among many of the natives. Ceremonies of the Peruvians : of the Mexicans : of some northern tribes: of the natives of Hispaniola : of the natives of Paria : ofCaribana: of Florida : of Brazil : the Natchez : the Zempoellans. Cruelties of the Mexican system of superstition : of the Hurons, &c. : of the Iroquois : of a number of other tribes. Initiation of priests and warriors. Institutions of the Jesuits in Soutli America — — CONTENTS. XI Page 419 4C1 496 521

Chapter XV

Reflections on a state of warfare : motives which urge the savages to war : the Mexicans : the Iroquois : mode of raising a party of warriors : ceremonies previous to a march : the Floridians : the Micmacs and Abinaquis : mode of travelling in their expeditions : diffusion of waters throughout their countries : encampments : military festival of the Algonquins and Abinaquis : ceremonies on returning from war : reception given to prisoners : unshaken firmness in the midst of tortures — — — — — —

Chapter XVI

Treatment of prisoners in South America. Warlike instruments : mode of march, and of attack in use among the Indians : embassies : calumet of peace : dance of the calumet : dancing, a ceremony of religion among the Americans. Commercial expeditions. Mode of computing the lapse of time : record of events : hieroglyphics : quipos : division of time : enumeration : geograpy : inordinate passion for gambling — — — —

Chapter XVII

The chace and fishing, sole sources of subsistence among the erratic tribes. The beaver : admirable economy of that animal : man its only enemy. The orignal or moose deer : chace in the southern parts of Canada : the caribou : the buffalo : practice followed previous to the introduction of fire-arms : dogs used in the chace : modes of fishing

Chapter XVIII

Maladies of the savages : modes of cure : practice of the Caraibs : funereal rites: northern tribes: Mexicans: natives of New Grenada: idea of an hereafter : grief for the loss of friends : wives of the Inca of Peru sacrificed on his tomb : respect for the memory of departed relatives — — — — — b2 CONTENTS, Page 548 569

Chapter XIX

Original causes of associations. Tribes inhabiting the colder latitudes jealousy of each other : authority of their chiefs extremely feeble chiefs of the southern tribes absolute : functions of chief : councils subject to no moral restraint : the Mexicans : the Peruvian empire system of civil government : mode of agriculture : disposal of pro

Chapter XX

Origin of language : Indian languages in general capable of being arranged under rules of grammar : infinite diversity of tongues in Ame rica : examples of four different languages. — — — ERRATA. Page 46, line 24, For Cape Original, read Cape Orignal. Page 112, line 11, For have a superior, read has a superior. Page 121, line 1Q, For the men place them, read themselves. Page 304, line 18, For Darien and Panama, read Darien or Panama. Page 5yj , line 4, For if is, read they are. TRAVELS, t\c. Sec PART THE FIRST.

Chapter I. Azores Original Discovery Romantic Appearance Island Of Saint Michael Ponta

DEL GADA VALLEY OF FURNO CAVERN OF BOCA DE INFERNO GULPH OF SETE' CIDADES CULTURE PRO- DUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY AMENITY OF SITUATIONS ISLAND OF PICO VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAK INFLUENCE PRO- DUCED ON THE MIND BY POSITIONS OF EXTRAORDINARY ELEVA- TION HEIGHT OF THE PEAK STATE OF THERMOMETER GRAN- DEUR OF THAT MOUNTAIN WHEN VIEWED FROM THE SEA. IN compliance with a promise which the author made to some friends, previous to his departure from England, he has been induced to write an account of his travels. As a detailed journal of the occurrences of a voyage would be no less tedious than uninteresting, he has confined himself to a description of such islands, and parts of the continent of North America as have fallen within the limits of his observation. THE AZORES. "The ship in which he sailed, having touched at the Azores on her passage to Canada, an opportunity was af forded him of visiting the islands of St. Michael and Pico.

The Azores are situated in the Atlantic Ocean, nearly at an equal distance from Europe and America, extending between twenty-five and thirty-two degrees of west longitude, and thirty-seven and forty degrees of north latitude. They were discovered by the Portuguese, who still con tinue to possess them, in 1449. at a period, when the spirit of adventure in search of new regions, patronized and di rected by Henry duke of Vizeo, had incited the navi gators of his country boldly to launch into the ocean, and to pursue their course far beyond the utmost limits of former geographical knowledge. They are said to have received the appellation of Azores from the number of falcons which inhabit the mountains. The atmosphere enjoys a great portion of clear and serene weather, and the mildness of the climate is highly favourable to human health.

The rugged precipices and mountains varying in de grees of elevation, as well as in form and extent of bases, many of whose summits are conical, exhibit no doubtful indication of the violent eruptions and convulsions, by which, at several distant periods, the" country must. have been agitated. o THE AZORES. •The tops of the most lofty of these mountains are usually discoverable above the clouds, which rest or float upon their sides, and which their stupendous height at tracts amid the cooler regions of the atmosphere. The acclivities, in proportion to their distance from the sea, increase in magnitude and elevation, aad in many situa tions abruptly rise into enormous piles, crowned with cliffs naked and barren, except where the sides are spar ingly shagged with stunted trees and brushwood.

The soil is in general fertile, abounding in corn, grapes, oranges, lemons, and a variety of other fruits ; and is likewise favourable for breeding of cattle, sheep, and other animals. Fish of various kinds are found in great abundance all around the coasts ; and the woods and high lands present a multitude of birds of different de scriptions. Animals of a noxious nature are said to be here unknown. Saint Michael, Santa Maria, Tercera, Saint George, Graciosa, Fayal, Pico, Flores, and Corvo, are the several names by which these islands are distinguished. The first is by far the most extensive, and lies in a di rection from south-east to north-west. It is about fifty four miles in length, but of an irregular breadth, exceeding not fifteen miles, and being at the centre not wider than six miles.

The number of inhabitants is estimated at nearly eighty thousand. Ponta del Gada the principal town, is situated on the south side, and contains about twelve thousand inhabit ants. The streets are regular, and of convenient width, and the churches and religious houses, as well as other public edifices, may be termed rather elegant. Convents and nunneries are placed in various situations throughout the country. The town is built along the sea-coast; the land behind it rises at first with gradual ascent, and after wards more abruptly, the view terminating by a congeries of conical hills. A mountain on the west towers above these, and is of a handsome form, its summit having a table appearance. In this is an ancient cratei filled with water, whose depth has not yet been ascertained. There is no harbour in the vicinity of the town, and vessels are usually anchored at a considerable distance from shore, in an open and unsheltered road.

That part of the island in which the capital is placed, forming a gentle acclivity of considerable extent, is well cultivated, and divided with no small degree of taste into spacious fields planted with Indian corn, wheat, barley, and pulse ; two crops of these are annually produced. Country houses are frequently interspersed with orchards of orange trees, whose fruit is superior to that which grows in the southern parts of Europe. Ribeira Grande, the second town in point of magnitude, is placed on the north side of the island, and contains nearly as many inhabitants as the chief city. In it are two convents, one of Franciscan friars, another of nuns. Villa Franca, about eighteen miles east of Ponta del Gada, on the south side of the island, forms the third town. It likewise contains a convent of Franciscan friars, and one with about three hundred nuns.

A small island opposite to this place, and about half a mile from the shore, possesses a basin, with a narrow entrance, where fifty vessels might anchor in security. Smaller towns, and a variety of hamlets are scattered throughout the country.' The surf of the sea breaks with considerable violence, and with unceasing agitation, all around the coast. The hot baths are situated in the eastern part of the island, and the road leading from the capital thither, is by Villa Franca ; from thence it rises by a gradual ascent for about twelve miles, until it attains the summit of the elevated lands by which these baths are environed. The descent into the valley is by a steep, narrow, and winding path. This extraordinary gulph is about twelve miles in circumference, surrounded by lofty and abrupt precipices, and accessible only by three ways, cut with labour out of the cliffs.

The soil below is fertile and well cultivated, producing copious harvests of wheat and Indian corn. The inclosures are adorned with hedge-rows of Lombardy pop lars which rise in pyramidal shapes, and exhibit a pleasing appearance. The gloomy faces of the surrounding rocks are shaded and varied by evergreens, consisting of laurels, myrtles, fayas, pao-sanguintro, tamujas, uvæ de serra, and a number of other shrubs and vines. Streams of crystalline water, interrupted in their down ward course, dash with impetuosity and foaming fury from rock to rock, and collecting in deep, stony basins beneath, thence issue in serpentine rivulets, which inter sect the valley in a variety of directions ; in some situations, rushing on with murmuring sound ; in others, creep ing along with a smooth and silver surface.

These, together with the appearance of the boiling fountains, from whence clouds of steam are continually thrown up ; a lake, well stocked with water-fowl ; blackbirds, and other feathered songsters of the grove, enlivening by their me lody ; fruits, and aromatic plants, yielding the most grate ful odours, contribute to form a combination of objects, highly pleasing, and wildly picturesque. The valley, which is named Furno, contains a number of boiling fountains ; the most remarkable of these, the cauldron, is situated upon a small eminence, being a circular basin of thirty feet in diameter, whose water, boilino* with ceaseless agitation, emits a quantity of vapour. At a few paces distant from hence is the cavern Boca de In ferno, throwing out, for a considerable Avay from its mouth, •quantities of water mixed with mud, accompanied by a noise like thunder.

Around this spot, and within the com pass of an acre of land, there are upwards of a hundred fountains of the same kind ; and even in the midst of a rivulet which runs by it, are several of these springs, so hot as to be insupportable to the touch. In other places tlie sulphureous vapours issue with such force from a number of apertures in the overhanging cliffs, as to sug gest to the fancy an idea of the place being inhabited by a thousand fabled Cyclops, occupied with their bellows and forges, in fabricating thunder. The surface of the ground is covered in many places with pure sulphur, which has been condensed from the steam, and which, like hoar frost, is arranged in sharp pointed, stellated figures. Not far distant from these hot springs, there are others of a nature extremely cold, particularly two, whose waters possess a strong mineral quality, accompanied by a sharp, acid taste.

About half a mile to the westward of this place, and close by the side of a river, there are likewise several sulphureous fountains, whose waters have been used with eminent success, by persons afflicted with scro phulous disorders. Under the declivity of a hill, westward from Saint Ann's church, are found springs of a similar kind, which are much used by the neighbouring inhabit ants. These flow in currents from a precipice, and are some of a hot, others of a cold temperature, although only a few feet asunder. To the westward of these is placed the lake, whose cir cumference is only three miles, and whose water is of a greenish colour, being powerfully impregnated with sulphur. On its north side there is a small plain, where the earth, perforated in a thousand places, incessantly emits sulphureous exhalations.

Thither, during the heat of the day, the cattle repair to avoid being tortured by flies. The united waters of the springs produce a considerable river, called Ribeira Quente, running for a course of nine miles through a deep rent in a mountain, and discharging itself into the sea, on the south side of the island. Along the precipices which confine it on either side, several spots emit smoke ; and in the sea, at some distance from its mouth, there are springs which boil up so strongly, that their heat is sensibly felt at the surface. The Furno contains two parishes and about a thousand inhabitants, whom necessity compelled to pass the mountains, and to cultivate a spot which was formerly believed to be inhabited by dæmons. Many years elapsed before the other inhabitants of the island began to visit it ; but, since the healing qualities of the waters have been dis covered, many invalids, as well as others, have resorted thither ; and notable effects have been produced by their use upon those afflicted by the gout, scrophula, and other cutaneous maladies.

The eastern and western parts of the island rise into lofty mountains ; but the centre, which is lower, is inter spersed with a variety of conical hills, every one of which discovers evident tokens of volcanic eruptions. Their summits are hollowed into basins, containing a quantity of water.. On the west side of the island another gulph is to be viewed, not less singular and extraordinary than that already described, which is known by the appellation of Sete Cidades, or the seven cities ; and whose extent is double that of the Furno. It is surrounded by steep precipices, and contains a fine lake of considerable depth, and two leagues in circumference. No hot springs have been discovered in its vicinity, nor do the waters possess any mineral quality. It has no visible discharge, and is on a level with the sea.

The mountains which form the boundaries of the valley, appear to have experienced the most violent and uncommon changes. They are composed en tirely of white pomice-stoiie, unmixed with black lava, affording unquestionable indications of the operation of a volcano, and of its more elevated parts having subsided into the centre of the mountain. There are two hills placed in the bottom of the valley, whose craters are yet open', although almost overgrown by shrubs. The lower parts of the island are very fertile, and in a state of high cultivation. The soil in general consists of decomposed pomice-stone, which is easily worked ; and it visually yields two crops every year. c A vegetable called tremosa, or blue lupin, supplies the deficiency of animal manure. It is sown on the fields with the first rains in September, and from the effects of mois ture and warmth, growing to a very rank state, about the end of November it is mowed down, left for a few days to flag, and is afterwards plowed into the ground.

Oranges and lemons abound throughout the country ; the first are of an excellent quality, ripen earlier than those produced in Portugal, and are brought sooner to market. The best kind of orange is raised by layers. Water melons grow abundantly in the fields. The farms produce wheat, Indian corn, and calavances. Vines are also cultivated on tracts of black lava bordering on. the sea coast ; but their juice is thin and feeble, soon acquiring an acid taste. The convents and other religious establishments placed in various situations along the borders of the island, and constructed of a white coloured stone, produce a pleasing effect when viewed from the sea. The aromatic herbs, trees, and fruits, perfume the at mosphere with their sweets ; and the breeze thus impregnated, becomes, when blowing from the land, highly grate ful to the traveller in sailing along the shore.

After having been three weeks at sea we became sensibly impressed by its enlivening influence, which suggested to recollection the following lines in Buchannan's Ode to May : " Talis beatis incubit insulis, " Auræ felicis perpetuus tepor, " Et nesciis campis seuectæ " Difficilis, quærulique raorbi. The island of Pico, from the superior altitude of one of its mountains, is the most remarkable of all the Azores. From the village of Guindaste to the summit of the peak, the distance is stated to be nine miles. The road passes through a wild, rugged, and difficult country, which is entirely covered with brushwood. When, at seven o'clock in the morning, we arrived at the skirts of the mountain, which form the region of the clouds, the wind became extremely cold, attended by a thick mist, the thermometer falling to forty-eight degrees, and at eight o'clock to forty-seven.

In alluding to the degrees of cold, I must be understood to speak relatively, and only with respect to its influence on the human frame, which a sud den change of twenty-two degrees of temperature cannot fail to affect. About ten we arrived at the boundary of the ancient crater, and the sun then acquiring power, the thermometer rose to forty-eight degrees. This appears to have been more than a mile in circumference. The southern and western boundaries yet remain, but those of the north and east have given way, and have tumbled down the side of the mountain. In the centre of the old crater, a cone of three hundred feet in perpendicular height c is thrown up, on the summit of which is the present mouth. The ascent of this is very steep and difficult ; and it con tains several apertures from which smoke is emitted.

It is formed of a crust of lava, of the consistence of iron that has once been in a state of fusion. - At the hour of half past ten we gained the top of the peak, which is singularly sharp and pointed, being about seven paces in length, and about five in breadth. The crater is on the north side, and below the summit, is about twenty paces in diameter, and is continually emitting smoke. It is almost filled with burnt rocks. From hence several of the neighbouring islands are pre sented to the view. Pico, seen from the peak, exhibits an appearance no less singular than romantic ; the eastern part rises into a narrow ridge, along which are many an cient volcanos which have long ceased to emit smoke, and several of whose craters are now almost concealed by woods which have sprung up around them.