The Stranger in America: containing observations ... on the genius, manners and customs of the people of the United States; with biographical particulars of public Characters ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

U 7i#w<rf ///<■ (,/'/,/ r///// ,J/^/,,(,/ is* ///'/<?</,:/)////',/ >,/>/////,■ s.y,-^/ //',/}<• *> U/Ar// /'//>/// '-.s /h- //,"//<-/ /,'// ' .. / SA^ SyT R A N G EAR IDT c gpfmcst! BY r / siJ" v mr-s 1807. THE STRANGER IN AMERICA: CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING A LONG RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY. ON THE GENIUS, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE OF THE UNITED STATES; WITH BIOGRAPHICAL PARTICULARS OF PUBLIC CHARACTERS HINTS AND FACTS RELATIVE TO THE ARTS, SCIENCES, COMMERCE, AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, EMIGRATION, AND tOje §>!afce Crafce* BY CHARLES WILLIAM JANSON, ESQ. Late of the State of Rhode Island, Counsellor at Law. ILLUSTRATED BY ENGRJFINGS. ALBION PRESS : PRINTED FOR JAMES CUNDEE, IVY - LANE, rATERNOSTER-ROW, LONDON. 1807.

Preface

. rrHEN the Author of the following sheets, previous to his taking up the pen to commence his contemplated work, refected on the many volumes which have already appeared on the subject, he must acknowledge that he felt no very strong inclination to add his own lucubrations to the list. Year of ter year has this impression contributed to restrain arising desire to communicate to the public the result of his observations respecting our once trans-atlantic brethren, but now the only remaining republicans in the civilized world. The persuasions of friends, together with the favorable opportunities of obtaining a thor&ugh acquaintance with the true character of the Americans, afforded by a long residence among them, and the avocations he pursued during that time, have at length induced him to give to the world his ideas on the subject.

He disclaims the vanity of aspiring to a place in the class of authors; had this been his ambition, he might have gratis ed it several years ago with equal facility. In perusing the contents of this volume, the reader should bear in mind this circumstance, that the author did not visit the United States for the purpose of making a regular tour through the territories comprized in them. He removed to that country with an intention of passing a con siderable part of his life there ; but the disappointments he met with of ten caused him to change his residence, occasioning a journey jirst in this direction,

PREFACE.

. VI rcctiou, i.'icu in the other, and his return, several times, to the same point. To this cause must be ascribed the want of regularity and of plan which some may think fit, at first sight, to alledge against this work. On a nearer examination, however, it will be found that, in his remarks on each state, the author has preserved, as nearly as possible, the geographical arrangement, commencing at the north, and ending at the south. In what year, month, or day this observation was made, or that circumstance happened, must be matter of perfect indifference ; in their accuracy alone can the reader feel interested, aud on this subject the Writer assures him, that he has introduced nothing into his work but what resulted from personal observation, or rested on. the most indubitable: authority^ To a portion of the readers into whose hands this book may clianoe t& fall, some of the anecdotes contained in its pages may probably be familiar*..

For the younger and the most numerous class, he ff asters himself that they will have the charm of novelty ; the circumstances to which he alludes having occurred while they were yet unborn. If he hasoccasionally had recourse to the writings, of others, it has only been for the purpose of illustrating the subject under review, or supporting his opinions by their testimony. In some instances, it is true, it will be found that he has en deavored, and, as he hopes, with success, to refute error, and to combat misrepresentation. The great length of time to which the authoi^s visit to the United States was prolonged, was far from being agreeable to his inclination, for an English traveller will find his curiosity thoroughly satiated in asmany moons

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. VII moons as fortune assigned years to him, in a country in every respect uncongenial to English habits, and to the tone of an Englishman's constitution. During the early part of his residence in America, and about the time he was planning his return to Europe, specious and tempting offers induced him to risk a considerable sum in a land-speculation, (a fatal snare laid for every emigrant) and the hopes of again realizing some portion of it, prevented his departure. He is obliged to confess the commission of a second act, equally injudicious— the embarkation of another sum in mercantile concerns, which eventually proved unfortunate, owing, in a great measure, to the unprincipled conduct of the commanders of the vessels in his employ. Thus were his hopes beguiled, from day to day, for more than thirteen years !

The rooted aversion in the hearts of the Americans against the inhabitants of Britain, was to the author a source of perpetual uneasiness. Among the lower order, in spite of his endeavors to adapt his behavior to their satisfaction, he was regarded as proud and haughty ; while a distant kind of envious obsequiousness, tinctured with an affectation of superiority, was but too evident in the majority of his equals. Such being the case, it cannot be surprising that he was never so happy as to form a true friendship with an American. From Germans and Frenchmen, numbers of whom are found in different parts of the United States, he received many civilities, and these he doubts not would have been extended to acts of friendship, had he needed them. His opinion of the American character is not the effect of premature prejudice, nor is it founded on precarious observation. Had the author, Uke an ordinary traveller, merely rolled through the country, in the stage wag- 3 gons,

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. gons, his strictures might with some shew of justice have been challenged as the effusions of spleen, or unbecoming partiality. So far from being influenced by feelings of this nature, he trusts he shall be believed when he asserts, that he never would have embarked for America, had not his mind been powerfully biassed in favor of the United States and their in habitants. Nor was it till long experience had uniformly exhibited them in a point of view very different from what he had fondly expected, that he adopted his present sentiments, which have been strengthened and con firmed by em attentive study of the genius, habits, and manners of these people, during a constant intercourse with individuals of every class and description. The author is perfectly azvare of the reception these remarks will experience in America, and that a host of scribblers will rise up in arms to attack his work.

He will, however, anticipate an answer. Americans make a point of denying every truth that in any way tends to expose a defective habit, or a national error. They bow lefore the shrine of adulation, fondly conceiving themselves the merited favorites of heaven ; and the United States " a country where triumph the purest principles of legislation which ever adorned civil society; a country in which the human character is already elevated to a superior species of man, compared with the miserable wretches of Europe."* All nations, it is true, have their follies, their caprices, and their im perfections ; but the manner in which they are affected by the exposure * Austin's Letters from London, Boston, IS04. 2 of

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. IX of them., is widely different. For instance — John Bull* laughs at the recital of his own follies ; while the slightest sarcasm rouses a spirit of resentment in the bosom of the sullen Yankee. Though the Americans declaim so loudly in favor of liberty and equality, yet no where are those terms more unworthily prostituted. That equality, the establishment of which was a favorite object of the revolutionary re publicans of France, is still the idol of the mob in the United States. The meanest plebeian would be quite ungovernable, did he barely suspect you of harboring the idea that he was inadmissible to equal rank with the best informed of his fellow-citizens. Hence you are accosted by people of the lowest description with familiarity, and answered with carelessness. This, it is obvious, cannot be a very enviable state of society for a person educated in European notions of the decorum necessary to be observed in civilized life.

With such chimerical ideas of liberty, the degradation of the slaves, and the large proportion of their numbers to that of the white population, in some parts of the American republic, must form a striking contrast in the mind of every reflecting reader. It will be seen, with horror, that the cruelties practised on this unfortunate race in that land of freedom, can scarcely be exceeded in the West India Islands. That this state of things cannot be of long duration, must be evident to the most superficial observer ; and accordingly it appears, that very just apprehensions begin * This humorous personification of the English character is most ably delineated in the comedy under the same title, written by the ingenious Mr. Colman, who does not hesitate to lash the vices and follies of his countrymen, with unrelenting severity ; and the universal approbation this piece has expe rienced proves the good temper which John preserves under this kind of castigation. b already

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. X already to be entertained on this subject in the American States. The principle of the trade in human flesh, is too horrible, even for those most deeply interested in it, to defend: however they may value its profits, they cannot possibly withstand the conviction of its injustice. It is rather a singular circumstance, that the last discussion, at which the author was present, in the house of representatives, in the city of Washington, related to this abominable traffic, and that, on his first entering the house of commons, after his return to London, he there heard an interesting and animated debate on lhe same subject. The eyes of governments appear to be opened to a serious consideration of the mischiefs which tlie prosecution of the slave trade must, sooner or later, entail on the regions to which its influence extends ; but whether the present be a seasonable moment for its suppression by the administration of Britain, he does not attempt to decide.

America, however, labors under none of the embarrassments which an implacable enemy has found means to throzv in the way of the commerce of England. The question under the consideration of congress last year, teas the propriety of imposing a tax on imported slaves, till an entire stop is put to the nefarious traffic, which, by a provisionally act passed some years since, will take place in 1808. Though no one can be a more decided advocate for an amelioration of the condition of these wretched blacks, than the author, yet he is convinced that their emancipation woidd be attended with imminent danger, as he has endeavored to show in the subsequent pages treating of South Carolina. Some evil even attended the manumission of the slaves of the late General Washington. The author has frequently heard the measure reprobated in the neighborhood of Mount Vernon, where he died. With a great part of them, liberty 3 ' was

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. XI was prostituted to the purposes of licentiousness, which teas supported by plunder. Many robberies were committed at this time, and great mischief done to the negroes still in bondage ; who, doubtless, were anxious to participate in the outrages and idleness committed and indulged in by their free brethren. The author has been at some pains to unfold the prospects lhat azvait the European emigrant in America. On this subject he is qualified to speak, not only from his own experience, but from that of many other ' persons, whose delusive hopes have terminated in disappointment. lie has endeavored to expose the knavery of American land-jobbers, and to shew the fallacy of all that native writers have advanced relative to the facility and small expence of farming an establishment in the western regions of the republic.

The history of the author s friend, Mr. Gilpin, furnishes a striking and melancholy example to such as repair lo the new World on agricultural speculations. The United States may still be considered as a new country, in eiery acceptation of the term. As such, therefore, it is but natural to suppose that those arts which supply the prime necessities of man, would there ex perience the greatest encouragement, and be held in the highest estimation. Accordingly, the farmer and the mechanic must stand a better chance of success than any other classes of emigrants, and when we. so often witness the failure, even of their hopes, can we be surprised at the yet more frequent disappointments oftheprofessors ofthe liberal arts and sciences ; or of such whose occupations are subservient only to the luxuries of lije ? These can prosper only in the countries where society has ar rived at a high degree of civilization, and where flourishing manufactures b % i and

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. XII and commerce have diffused ease and opulence. Society is still in a state of infancy in America. What encouragement is held out to the study of architecture, for instance, in a region zohere many of the inhabitants are satisfied zvith log-houses ; or what progress can be expected in the arts oj design, if, from want of education, or deficiency in taste, their beauties are neither felt nor relished ? America has, comparatively speaking, no manufactures; and how intimately the prosperity of arts and sciences is connected with these, it is unnecessary for the author even to attempt to demonstrate. All his observations on emigration flow from no other motive than regard for the welfare of his country, and the happiness of his deluded fellow-subjects. Impressed with this sentiment, he has developed the illicit practices of American traders on the northern coasts of Ireland, and the injury which not only the revenue, but likewise the empire at large must sustain from their continuance.

He flatters himself that he may be the means of directing the attention of the British administration to a subject which appears to him of no trifling importance ; and if his endeavors shall lead to the application of a remedy to this national mischief, or shall prevent only one discontented fellow-citizen from quitting the substantial blessings he enjoys at home, in order to seek imaginary comfort, happiness, and wealth amidst the unproductive wastes and unsociable inhabitants of another hemisphere, his time and trouble will not have been bestowed in vain. During his residence in America, the author was no inattentive ob server of passing objects and events in the extensive territories of the United States. Accordingly, the notes and observations which he made 2 are

PREFACE.

. XIII are both copious and varied. From them he has selected the subjects of the following sheets, and on the reception they may experience will depend the publication of a second volume, much valuable matter still, remaining unemployed in his possession. With respect to the engravings wliich illustrate his work, the author can assure the public that they exhibit correct representations of the ori ginal subjects. He was induced to give a preference to those of which they principally consist, namely, remarkable buildings, as affording a means of comparing the progress of the arts in America with that of other countries. Should it be objected that too great a proportion of them are taken from one city, the author's excuse is, that, in truth, scarcely any other city in America contains any edifice worthy of graphic description; and here it is but justice to observe, that he has availed himself of the assist ance of a skilful and ingenious artist, now residing in America, namely, Mr. Birch ; whose pencil has been very industriously and successfidly exercised in delineating the various objects that have fallen under his observation.

Aware that many imperfections may be found in the following sheets, yet conscious of the rectitude of his motives for publishing his observations, in zmhich he has been guided by a sincere desire that they may prove bene ficial to his countrymen, the author throws himself upon their candor, and solicits the exercise of their indulgence in the perusal of them. CONTENTS ERRATA. Page 108, for CHAP. XI. read CHAP. XII. Page 2S>6, instead of the two last lines in the second column, read : 17. Ohio 1 Mississippi Territory - 1 Indiana Territory - - 1 Total CONTENTS CHAP. I. MOTIVES of the Author for going to America — He embarks in an American Ship — Chased by a French Privateer — Conduct of her Crew — Seizure and Recovery of the Author's Papers— Specimen of American Manners — A Squall — Singular Manner of catching a Shark — Treatment of the Passengers — American Duplicity — Nocturnal Adventure — Arrival at Portsmouth — Curiosity of the Americans — Boston --------- 1—21 CHAP. II.

Excessive Heat— Bed-bugs and Musquitoes — Processions — Orations — Bunker's Hill — Death of Major Pitcairn — Vaults containing the Remains of the Officers who fell at the Battle of Bunker's Hill 22— SO CHAP. III. Extent of the United States — Present Number of Inhabitants— Acquisition of Louisiana and the Floridas — Conjectures on the Duration of the Federal Government — Statistical Survey of the United States - - 31—34 CHAP. C0N1 ENTS. XVI CHAP. IV. General Observations on the History of America — Province of Maine first explored by the English in Search of Gold — Artifice of the Natives — Anecdotes of Sir William Phipps — Freebooters — Productions of the Province — Portland-— Falmouth 35—41 CHAP. V. Connecticut — New London — Rigby's Mountain 42—44 CHAP. VI. Adventures of Generals Whalley and GofFe, two of the Judges who condemned King Charles I. — Their long Concealment in various Parts of New England — Whalley's second Childhood described by GofFe — Account of Colonel Dixwell — Strictures on Dr. Stiles's Publication relative to these Regicides - 45—56 CHAP. VII.

Extremes of Heat and Cold in New England — State of Vegetation and the Produce of the Field — Direction of the Winds — Meteorological Observations on Rain — Uncertainty and State of the Weather ------- ._ 57—66 CHAP. VIII. Multiplication of Wild Pigeons in New England — Their Abundance in Carolina — Fecundity of Fish in New England - 67—69 CHAP. IX. Mountains of the United States— The Blue Ridge — The White Mountains — Alleghany Mountains — Lakes — Survey of those within the Territory of the American Republic — Lake Superior — Huron — Erie — Ontario — Last Engagement between the American Troops and the Savages ------- 70—79 CHAP. CONTEXTS. XVII CHAP. X. Excursion in Connecticut — Substantial Breakfast — Dinner — Horse- Corn — General Aspect of the Country — Frogs — Manners of the Inhabitants — Effect of Republican Principles — Dangerous Passage of Hell Gate — New York — Description of the City — Machinations of Genet, the French Ambassador — Dallas, the American Secretary of State ------- 80—99 CHAP. XI.

State of Religion in the United States — Sundays — Generosity of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Maryland — Shakers — Baptists, Anecdotes of them — Camp Meetings of the Methodists - - - loo— i or CHAP. XII. American Public Characters — General Gates — General Hamilton — Colonel Burr — General Pinckney — General Putnam — Mr. Albert Gallatin — Mr. John Randolph — Mr. Levi Lincoln —Lord Fairfax — Sir John Oldmixon — Thomas Law, Esq. — Paul Jones — Captain Hacker — Captain Peter Landois — General Arnold 108—16* CHAP. XIII. Retreat of General Washington from Long-Island — Execution of Captain Hale, an American Spy — The Army — Opposition to capital Punishments — Pay of the Army Establishment 1(55—163 CHAP. XIV. Journey to Philadelphia — Stage-Waggon — Miserable Roads — Communicative Passenger — Philadelphia — Population of the City — The Market — Method of rearing Hogs — Extremities of the Seasons — Punishments inflicted on Criminal Offenders — Advantages of the Criminal Code of America — The Jail — The Bettering-House — The Hospital — The Bank of the United States — Beggars — Waterworks — Bridges — The Library — Peale's Museum —American Manufactures ------- 170— 19T CHAP. c CONTENTS.

CHAP. XV. Washington, the Federal City and Seat of Government — Slander of its Founder — Extract from the American Hudibras — -Wretched State of the Roads about Washington — Disappointment of Speculators — The Capitol — The President's House — Causes of the deplorable State of the City — Horse-Races — Mount Vernon — Alexandria -.--_----- 198—214 CHAP. XVI. Embassy from Tunis — Extraordinary Conduct of the Turkish Negotiator — Drunkenness of his Attendants — His Departure from America — Deputation from the Creek and Osage Indians — Their Appearance in the House of Representatives — Their Song — Dance of Savages in the Washington Theatre — Sudden Death of one of the Chiefs — Particulars of the Expedition for exploring the Missouri 215—233 CHAP. XVII. The Law — Judges — Procrastination — Term Reports — Bankrupt- Law — Facility of evading it — Example of fraudulent Bankruptcy — Necessity of a different System - 234—246 CHAP. XVIII.

Drama — Its Rise and Progress in Philadelphia — Mr. Cooper — The New York Theatre — Mr. Hodgkinson — Poverty of Ame rican Managers — Charleston, the Grave of American Performers — Mrs. Wrighten — Miss Broadhurst — Miss Fontenelle— Mr. Vil liers — Eminent Living Actors — Indecorous Behaviour in an Ame rican Audience — Theatrical Criticism 247—258 CHAP. XIX. Artifices and Frauds of Land-Speculators — Method of Cooking Land— Difficulties of new Settlers in Kentucky — The new Mis- 2 sissippi CONTENTS. XIX sissippi Bubble — Grant of Land by the State of Georgia—Infa mous Fraud practised on the Purchasers — Altercation between General Jackson and a Printer — Proceedings in Congress relative to the Mississippi Company's Claims * 259 — 2b'9 CHAP. XX. Conjectures on the Existence of the Madogians, or Welch Indians — Narrative of Maurice Griffith — Expedition of the Shawnese to ■explore the Missouri — Discovery of a Nation of White Indians — Natural Abilities of the Indians — Dialogue between an Indian Chief and an American Agent — Adoption of a Warrior by the Canadian Indians -------- 270—283 CHAP. XXI.

Order of the Cincinnati — Satire on this Institution — Imaginary Adventures of one of its Members — The Eagle — Burlesque on American Elections — Badge of the Order - 284 — 296 CHAP. XXII. Deplorable Effects of the uncontrolled Liberty allowed to Youth in America — Smoking — An Academic Frolic — Slingers — Eleveners — Gouging — Biting — Kicking — Picture of a Carolina Loghouse 297 — 305 CHAP. XXIII. Bee-Hunting — Adventures of an American Quarter-Master Serjeant — Alligators — Establishment of a Carolina Farmer and Inn-keeper — The Locust — The Cock-Roach — Ants - - - 306 — 312 CHAP. XXIV. Miranda's Expedition — His Operations in America — Judicial Proceedings against Mr. Ogden, Proprietor of the Leander — Tyrannical conduct of Judge Tallmage — Spirited Defence of Mr. Ogden's Counsel — Singular Notions of Liberty displayed by a Rec 2 publican XX CONTENTS. publican Judge — Failure of Miranda's Enterprise— Particulars of his early Life --------- 313—326 CHAP. XXV.

Norfolk, ift Virginia — The Great Dismal Swamp — Lake Drummond — Deer-hunting in the Swamp — Extraordinary Dilemma — Little Dismal Swamp — The Panther — Dreadful Conflict between Planters and Bears — Canals — Cultivation of Tobacco — Frauds of Americans in that Commodity- -Natural Bridges in Virginia 327—345 CHAP. XXVI. The Mocking-Bird — The Red-Bird, or Virginia Nightingale— The Woodcock of the Southern States — The Woodpecker — The Whip-poor- Will ---------- 346—348 CHAP. XXVII. Eccentric Advertisements — Ofa Publican — A Lottery-Office Keeper — A Hair-dresser — A Negro Oyster Merchant — A Poetical Friseur — A Political Barbacue — Porter Seller — Itinerant Parson — Matrimony — Divorce -------- 349—355 CHAP. XXVIII. South Carolina — Value of Plantations — Houses of the Planters Slaves — Their Treatment — Plan for improving their Condition Slave-Trade — Dangers to be apprehended from its Prosecution — Intended Insurrections of the Slaves — Influence of Slavery on the Political Representation of the States — Propensity of the Inhabitants of Carolina to Duelling — Gold-Mines discovered in North Carolina — Gold Company — Cultivation of Cotton — In 356—372 CHAP. XXIX.

Treatment of Slaves— Barbarities exercised on them— Punishment inflicted on a Negro for a Rape— Singular mode of Cure adopted with CONTENTS. XXI with another — The Dying Negro — Observations on Slavery, by Jefferson and Dr. Morse 373 — 384 CHAP. XXX. Agriculture — Prospects for the Emigrant Farmer — History of Mr. Gilpin — Yellow Fever — Symptoms and Treatment of that dreadful Complaint — Land-jobbers — Squatters- — A Log-House — Fences — The Culture of Indian Corn — Journey to tlie Blue Ridge — Orange Court-House — The Dancing-School — Madison Court- House — Alarm of an Insurrection among the Negroes — Night Expedition in pursuit of them — Their Punishment - - - 385— 40i CHAP. XXXI. Indian Corn — Precarious Produce of that Grain — Husking Frolic — Breeding of Sheep — Prospect for the Emigrant Mechanic in America — The Law — Physic — The Church — Observations on Mr. Toulmin's Plan for purchasing and stocking a Farm in Kentucky — German Settlers — State of Literature in America — Booksellers — Typographical Society — Book Fair — Arts and Sciences — Strictures on Austin's Letters from London — Funeral of General Washington _ - - - 405—424 CHAP. XXXII.

The American Captain Little takes a French Corvette — Tried on Charges brought against him by the Prisoners, and superseded in his Command — The French Ship repaired at the Expence of America, and restored by Congress — Blockaded in Boston by a British Ship — Action off Sandy Hook between the Ambuscade and Boston — Circumstances attending the return of Adet, the French Ambassador — Blockade of a French Frigate in Newport by the Asia — John Pierce killed by a Shot from the Leander— Proclamation of President Jefferson on the Occasion 425—436 CHAP. XXXIII. Gypsum — Large quantities of that substance imported from Canada CONTENTS. XXII nada into the United States, and employed as Manure — Pittsburg — General Observations on the Western Territories — Military Tavern-keepers — Quality and Produce of the Soil in Kentucky — Reason for the loss of Teeth among the Americans — Difficulty of bringing Produce to Market from the Western Countries 437—445 CHAP. XXXIV. Thomas Paine 446—451 CHAP. XXXV. Emigration — Smuggling — German Redemptioners 452—4:62