The River of Golden Sand ... Condensed by E. C. Baber ... Edited with a memoir and introductory essay, by Sir H. Yule ... With ... map, and woodcuts

Front matter

THE RIVER OF GOLDEN SAND PACTOLONQUE PETIT: QUAMVIS NON AUREUS ILLO TEMPORE, NEC CARIS ERAT INVIDIOSUS ARENIS. Ovid, Met. THE RIVER OF GOLDEN SAND: BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH CHINA AND EASTERN TIBET TO BURMAH; BY THE LATE( CAPTAIN WILLIAM GILL, R.E. CONDENSED By EDWARD COLBORNE BABER, CHINESE SECRETARY TO H. M.'S LEGATION AT PEKING. EDITED, WITH A MEMOIR AND INTRODUCTORY ESSAY, By COLONEL HENRY YULE, C.B., R.E. Mith; portrait, glap, smb ©lookuis. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1883. TREADMILL — IRRIGATION WHEEL. PREFATORY NOTE. Miss F. E. M. Gill, desiring that an illustrated edition of ' The River of Golden Sand ' should be prepared as a memorial of her deeply lamented brother, requested me to undertake the superintendence of the work. It was felt that the bulk of the original book had been too great, and it seemed essential that the error should not be repeated.

But abridgment of sucha narrative is a difficult matter, especially when the task can no longer be supervised by the author. The difficulty was got over when it was found that Mr. E. Colborne Baber, Chinese Secre tary to H. M.'s Legation at Peking, and now in England, was willing to undertake this abridgment. Mr. Baber, by the fact of his being one of Captain Gill's most intimate and valued friends, combined with that of his having been the traveller's companion on the ascent of the Yang-Tzu, and by his unique knowledge of Western China and the adjoining hill-country, was qualified for this task as no one else could be. It was Miss Gill's wish that the Introductory Essay which was issued with the original edition should not be omitted. I have modified it somewhat, and endeavoured to bring it up to a recent date.

PREFATORY NOTE. The memoir of Captain Gill is based on a sketch, also by the present writer, which was printed in December last in the ' Royal Engineers' Journal,' a paper circulating privately among the officers of the Corps. This has now been expanded, chiefly by additional extracts from my friend's diaries. The illustrations, in addition to the few which appeared in 1880, are derived mainly from drawings which Captain Gill caused to be made under his own supervision from his very rough sketches. A few have been added (cliches) from Lieutenant G. Kreitner's narrative of Count Szechenyi's expedition (Im Fernen Osten, Vienna 1881). The portrait which forms the frontispiece has been etched by Mr. T. Blake Wirgman from a photograph ; and the group engraved by Mr. Cooper is from the last likeness of Captain Gill, taken at Malta in the beginning of 1882.

Introduction

. § 1 — Origin of this Essay. § 2 — Title of the Book explained, and scope of the introduction. § xj — The great parallel rivers issuing from Eastern Tibet ; (i) the Subanshiri ; § 4 (ii) the Dihong, and the identity of the great river of Tibet with the great river of Assam. § 5 — Recent evidence and comparative discharges. § 6 — Rivers involved in the question. § 7 — Theory of identity of Tsanpu and Irawadi. § 8 —General grounds for adhesion to orthodox theory. § 9 — (iii) the Dibong ; does not come from Tibet. § 10 — (iv) The Lohit or true Brahmaputra ; its identity with Galc-bo or Ken-pu of Tibetan geography ; murder of the missionaries Krick and Boury. § n (v) — The Tchitom-chu or Ku-ts'- Kiang, probably a source of the Irawadi. § 12 — (vi) The Lung- Ch'uan Kiang ; (vii) The Lu-Kiang or Salwen River. § 13 — (viii) The Lan-T'sang or Mekong. § 14 — (ix) The Kin-Sha River of Golden Sand, or Upper Stream of the Great Yang-Tsu Kiang. § 15 — (x) The Ya-Lung or Yarlung River ; its confluence with the Kin-Sha. § 16 — (xi) The Min-Kiang. § 17 — Its Ramifications in the Plain of Ch'eng-Tu. § 18 — History of the problem of direct communication between China and India ; first Chinese knowledge of India. § 19 — Indications in Greek writers. § 20 — Alleged Chinese invasion of India. § 21 — Medieval counter-attempts from India. § 22 — Marco Polo in Western Yun-nan. § 23 — Ta-Li-Fu and the Panthe"s ; Bhamo. § 24 — The Treaty of Tien- Tsin. § 25 — French missions on the Tibetan frontier. § 26 — Curious episode in connection with these missions. § 27 — Journey of Hue &nd Gabet. § 28 — Klaproth's Description du Tiibet. § 29 — Blakiston's exploration of the Upper Yang-Tsu. § 30 — The French expedition up the Mekong River, and excursion to Ta-Li under F.

Gamier. § 31 — Garnier's later efforts and projects. § 32 — T. T. Cooper's attempts to reach India from China, and to reach China from India. § 33 — Major Sladen's expedition from Bhamo into Yun-nan ; CONTENTS. 7 its consequences. § 34 — Baron Richthofen's attempt to reach Ta-Li by Ning-Yuen-Fu. § 35— The Abbe Desgodins. § 36— The Deputation of Augustus Margary, who succeeded in reaching Bhamo from China. § 37— Murder of Margary on the return journey. § 38— Negotiations that followed ; Grosvenor's mission to Yun-nan. § 39 — The agreement of Chefoo, and the ' Margary Proclamation.' § 40 — Reports from the Grosvenor mission ; Mr. E. C. Baber's ; his subsequent journeys ; Lord Aberdare's summary of his work in presenting the medal of the Royal Geographical Society. § 4r — Extract from one of his narratives. § 42 — Journeys of Protestant missionaries ; Mr. McCarthy, the first non official traveller from China to the Irawadi ; Mr. Cameron's journey on Captain Gill's track. § 43— Captain Gill's own journeys ; that to the northern mountains of Ssu-Ch'uan ; the non-Chinese races of the western frontier. § 44 — Man-Tzu and Si-Fan ; comparison of numerals. § 45 — Captain Gill joined by Mr. Mesny, and his obligations to that gentleman. § 46 — The journey by Ta-Chien-Lu ; the tea-trade with Tibet ; recent details on that subject by Mr. Baber. § 47— Currency of English rupees in Tibet ; and of tea-bricks ; singular kinds of tea discovered by Mr. Baber. § 48 — Ta-Chien-Lu ; its Tibetan name ; its position. § 49 — The Musiis and the Lisus. § 50 — MSS. in new characters brought from those regions. § 51 — Nature of work achieved by Captain Gill. § 52 — Journeys since his ; Count Bela Szechenyi's. § 53 — Mr. A. R. Colquhoun's. The future ?

Chapter I. Cathay, And The Way Thither

PAGE China resolved on — Preliminary visit to Berlin— Baron Ferdinand v. Richthofen — Marseilles, and Voyage in the 'Ava' — The Straits — Chinese Practices first realised — Approach to Saigon — The City — Hong Kong reached and quitted — Shanghai and its peculiar Conveyances — The Chinaman's Plait — Voyage to Chi-Fu — The Chi-Fu Convention — Tne Minister Li-Hung-Chang — Voyage to the Pei-Ho — Difficulties of Navigation up that River— Scenery — Arrival at Tien-Tsin — Carts of Northern China — ' Boy ' found — Scenes on the Tien-Tsin Bund— Suspicious Wares I

Chapter II. The City Of Cambaluc

Departure from Tien-Tsin — Rural Characteristics — Pictures by the Way— Chinese Hostelry — The ' Kang ' : Fittings and Furniture — Approach to Peking — Foreigners as seen by Chinese eyes — The CONTENTS. PAGE 44 59 British Legation -Visit to the Temple of Heaven— A Chinese Fair — Crambe Repetita— Chinese Dinners— Visit to the Summer Palace — Needless Havoc— Great Bell— Modern Cambaluc. . . . 17

Chapter III

A CYCLE OF CATHAY. Cradle of the Chinese Nation— Their Settlement in Shan-Si — Characteristics of Chinese History — Manifold Invasions of China, but Chinese Individuality ahvays predominates — Imagination essential to Advancement, but the Chinese have it not — Inventions ascribed to Them — Stoppage of Development — China for the Chinese — Foreign Help Inevitable— The Woo-Sung Raihva-, — Defects of Chinese Character — Pigeon-English — Perverse Employment of it — Preparations again for Travel — Detail of Packages — Additions to our Following. 30

Chapter IV. The Ocean River

Start up the Yang-Tzii — Names of the Great River — The Dog Tib, and his ethnological perspicacity — The Grand Canal — Arrival at Hankow — Manufacture of Brick-Tea — Tea in Chinese Inns — H. M.S. Kestrel — Boat engaged for Upper Yang-Tzu — The Lady Skipper and her Craft — Our Departure — Chinese Fuel — Our Eccentricities in Chinese Eyes — The New Year Festival — Chinese View of the Wind-points — Aspects of the River — Vicissitudes of Tracking — Great Bend — Wild Geese — Rice as Food — The Hills Entered — Walks Ashore — Population dense only on the River — Passage in a Cotton Hoat — The Telescope Puzzles — Arrival at I-Chang. .

Chapter V. The Gorges Of The Great River

The I-Ch'ang Mob — Chinese Unreason — Departure from I-Ch'ang, and Adieu to English Faces — The Gorges Entered — Vicissitudes of Ascent — Scenery of the Gorges — Preparation for the Rapids — Ascent of Rapids — Yang-Tzu Life-boats — Dangers of the Rapids — View at Ch'ing-Tan — Ch'ing-Tan Rapid — Waiting our Turn — Pilots of the Rapid — Successful Ascent — Mode of Tracking — Long Gorge of Wu-Shan — Weird and Gloomy Aspect — Kuei-Chou-Fu — Method of Salt Manufacture — Extraordinary Richness of Soil — Chinese Skill in Agriculture Overrated — Their True Excellence is in Industry — St. George's Island — Cataplasm for a Stove-in Junk — The River of Golden Sand at Last — The Use of the Great Sculls . CONTENTS. 9 PAGE 82

Chapter VI

ch'ung-ch'ing to ch'£ng-tu-fu. Arrival at Ch'ung-Ch'ing — M. Provot, Monsigr. Desfleches, and the French Missionaries : Their Cordiality — The Last of our Lady- Skipper — We are satirised in verse, and enabled to see ourselves as others see us — News of Tibet — Unfavourable Change of Feeling in Tibet as to Admission of Europeans — Difficulties of Mr. Baber's Photographer — Preparations to start for Ch'eng-Tu — Elaborate Coolie Contract — Chinese Commercial Probity — Baggage Arrangements — Adieu to Baber — Good Manners of Ssu-Ch'uan Folk — Jung-Ch'ang-Hsien — Characteristics of a Restaurant— Coolies at their Meal— Realistic Art — Want of Ideality in Chinese Character — The Brine Town of Tzu-Liu-Ch'ing — The Christian Landlord — The Brine-wells and Fire-wells — Mode of Boring and of Drawing the Brine — Further Details and Out-turn of Salt — Politeness of the People — Red Basin of Ssii-Ch'uan. ......

Chapter VII

A LOOP-CAST TOWARDS THE NORTHERN ALPS, Ch'Sng-Tu to Sung-P'an-T'ing. Arrival at Ch'eng-Tu — Public Examinations — Arrangements with Mr. Mesny — Pleasures of French Society — Proposed Excursion to the North — The Man-Tzu, or Barbarian Tribes — Leave Ch'eng-Tu-Fu — The Escort — Irrigated and Wooded Country— Halt at Kuan- Hsien — Frantic Curiosity of People, but no Incivility — Irrigation Works — Coal-beds — Hsin-Wen-P'ing — Wen-Ch'uan-Hsien — First Man-Tzu Village — Pan-Ch'iao — Traces of War — Relentless Advance of Chinese — Miraculous Sand Ridge — Hsin-Pu-Kuan — Rapid Spread of the Potato — Excursion to Li-Fan-Fu in the Man- Tzu Hills — Scenes that recall the Elburz — Carefully-made Hill Road — The ' Sanga ' of the Himalayas — Village of Ku-Ch'eng — Peat Streams — Musk Deer — Arrival at Li-Fan-Fu — The Search for a Man-Tzu Village— Man-Tzu here a Term of Reproach — The I-Ran Tribes and their Language — Return to Hsin-Pu-Kuan — Resume Valley of Hsi-Ho (or ' Min River') — Wen-Ch'eng — The Himalayan Haul-Bridge in Use — Polite Curiosity at Ma-Chou — Grandeur of the ' Nine Nails ' Mountain — The Su-Mu, or White Barbarians- Alpine Scenery — Tieh-Chi-Ying — The Yak seen at last — Glorious Mountain View (Mount Shih-Pan-Fang) — N^an-Hua-Kuan— Delicious Tea — Smoking in Ssii-Ch'uan — Country of the Si-Fan — Sung- P'an-T'ing— Reports of Game— Crops — Butter, Fish, Yak- Beef- Bitter Alpine Winds — Foreign Remedies Appreciated — The Traveller quits the Valley ('Min River') and turns Eastward— Si-Fan CONTENTS.

TAGE Lamassery — Herds of Cattle and Yaks — Desolate Hospice at Feng- Tung-Kuan— Tibetan Dogs— Reported Terrors of the Snow-Passes —Summit of the Plateau of the Hsiieh-Shan — Descent begins — Forest Destruction — Verdure of Eastern Slopes — Splendid Azaleas —Slaughter by the Si-Fan — Luxuriant Gorges— Miracle-Cave — Hsiao-Ho-Ying — Iron Suspension Bridge — Mauvais Pas — Lung- An-Fu— P'ing-I-Pu— Boat Descent of River (Ta-Ho)— End of Excursion. ........... io2

Chapter VIII. Ch'eng-tu, And The Road To Tibet

Account of Ch'£ng-Tu, as given by Marco Polo — And by Padre Martin Martini — Description of the Modern City— The Rivers, and Probable Changes — Destruction of Documents — Arrival of Mr. Mesny — Political Aspects compel Change in Traveller's intended Route — Decision to Travel Homeward via Bat'ang and Bhamo — Visit to the Great Monastery of Wen-Shu- Yuan — Its Buildings and Curiosities — Chapel of Meditation — Antiquities of Ch'eng-Tu— Invitation to a Picnic — Notable Guests — The Dinner and its Peculiarities — Table Manners and Customs — Threatenings of Drought — ' Organisation of Departure' — To Shuang-Liu— Superstition as to Fires in Towns — Vast Feitility of Country — Personal Criticisms on Travellers — Chinese Idea of Foreigners in general — ■ First Sight of the Mountains — Fine Bridge on the Nan-Ho — Great Coolie-loads — Tibetan Embassy — Pai-Chang-Yi — Paved Road in Decay — Ya-Chou-Fu — Its Commercial Impoitance — Cake-Tea — Coolies employed on the Traffic — Traffic from Yiin-Nan — Mountains begin to close round — The Little Pass — Alleged Terrors of the Hills — The Great Pass and the T'ai-Hsiang Pass — ' Straw- Sandal Flat ' — Ching-Chi-Hsien— Hua-Ling-P'ing— River of Ta- Chien-Lu— Bridge swept away — Lu-Ting-Chiao and its Iron Suspension bridge — Dominoes — Character of People of Ssu-Ch'uan— Hsiao-P'eng-Pa — Scantier Vegetation — Arrival at Ta-Chien-Lu . 140

Chapter IX. Ta-chien-lu

Ta-Chien-Lu — Native King — Indian Rupees Current — The Place and People — ' Om Mani Pemi Horn!' — A House found for us The Local Government — Transport Arrangements — The Lamas and the Dalai Lama — The Prayer-Cylinder and the Multiform Mani Inscriptions — The Lama Ambassadors — Menaces of our Fate if we entered Tibet — The Servants begin to Quail — Chin-Tai, his Greed and his Tempers — Heavy Provisioning for the Journey — Contrast of Tibetan and Chinese Habits — Of Tibetan Simplicity of Fare CONTENTS. 11 PAGE with Chinese Variety — Kindly aid rendered by the late Bishop Chauveau — The New Ma-Fu — Visit to a Lamassery — Currency for the Journey — The Tibetan's Inseparable Wooden Cup — Tib left behind — Fresh Selection of Nags — Fatality of Small-pox in Tibet. 169

Chapter X. The Great Plateau

i. Ta-Chien-Lu to Lit'ang. The Departure from Ta-Chien-Lu — The Cavalcade described — A Supper of Tsanba — Village of Cheh-toh — A Wreck of the Crockery — Tibetan Salutation — Delicious air — Half-bred Yaks — Splendid Alpine Pasture^ — Wild Fruits — The Sacred Cairn — Ti-zu — Delightful al fresco Breakfast — A Land of Milk and Butter — Hot Spring — The Buttered-Tea Churn — Tsanba — Tibetan Houses — An-niang — Wild Flowers — Roadside Groups from the Fair — A Gallop over Turf — Pass of Ka-Ji-La — Magnificent Alpine Prospect — The ' King of Mountains ' — Pine Forests — Huang-Fu — Descent towards the Ya-Lung River — Appearance of Green Parrots — Ho-K'ou or Nia-chuka, on the Ya-Lung River — Ferry over the Ya-Lung — Re-ascent towards the Plateau — Mah-geh-chung — A ' Medicine Mountain ' — Crest of the Ra-ma Pass — Female Decorations — Lit'ang- Ngoloh — Description of House and Appliances — Domestic Sketches — Deh-re Pass — The Rhubarb Plant — Rarefied Atmosphere — Pass of Wang-gi — Abundance of Supplies — Shie-gi Pass — The Surong Mountains — Lit'ang in View — Arrival there. . . rgo

Chapter XI. The Great Plateau

2. Lit'ang to Bat'ang. Departure— Quit the Lit'ang Plain— High Pass of Nga-ra-la-Ka— Cold Granite Region— Alarms of Robbers— Dzong-da— Pine-clad Valleys again — The Caims and Mani Inscriptions— Stupendous Alpine Scene— The vast snowy Peak of Nen-da— The Guides head turned with Wonder — Sublime Aspect of the Mountains — Rhododendrons— Striking Picture— The J'ra-ka-La— Savage Desolation—Our Guide— Welcome on Arrival at Bat'ang— Chao the Magistrate, and Favourable Impressions— Abb<5 Desgodins— Discharge of our Suite— The Name of Bat'ang— The Plain— Possibilities of Navigation on the Rivers— Earthquakes— The Great Lamassery— Number of such— Causes that fill them— The Lamas a Curse to the Country— Eccentric Chinese System of Accounts— Slavery and Cattle-holding— Gradual Depopulation of Tibet— Hostility of the Lamas— Alleged Muster to Bar our Advance. CONTENTS. 12

Chapter XII. Region Of The River Of Golden Sand

r. Bat'ang to Sha-Lu. PAGE Departure from Bat'ang— Adieux to MM. Desgodins and Biet — Broad Features of the Geography, and Relation between Road and Rivers— Valley of the Chin-Sha or Golden Sand— A False Alarm- Journey across the Chin-Sha — Fine Scenery of the Kong-tze-ka Pass — Quarters at Jang-ba — Growth of our Escort — Armed Opposition on the Lassa Road— The River of Kiang-ka— Hospitable People — Desolated Country — Chii-sung-dho (Cooper's — ' Jessundee ')— Tsaleh— ' The Boy the Father of the Man '—Water-shed between the Chin-Sha and the Lan-T'sang — Camping Ground of Lung-zung-nang — The Bamboo seen again — The Gorge of Dong — Parallel Fissures from North to South — The Town of A-tun-tzu — Evil Character of A-tun-tzii — Prevalence of Goitre— Water Analysis—Farewell Visits from Chao and the Native Chief— Ceremonies of Adieu — Prevalence of Opium-smoking in Yiin-Nan — Long and Moist March 224

Chapter XIII. Region Of The River Of Golden Sand

2. Sha-Lu to Ta-Li-Fu. Sha-Lu — Big Tibetan Dog — City of Chien-Ch'uan-Chou — A Henpecked Warrior — Fair Words of the Chou — Road through Populous Rice-lands — Lake Basins — Opium-smoking — Damp and Dreary Aspects — The Erh-Hai, or Lake of Ta-Li — Road along the Lake Shore — Arrival at Ta-Li-Fu — Pere Leguilcher — The Plain of Ta- Li — The Mahometans — Visits — General Yang— Departure from Ta-Li 240

Chapter XIV. In The Footsteps Of Marco Polo And Of Augustus Margary

r. ' The Land of the Gold Teeth.' Marco Polo's Cakes of Salt — Paucity of Present Traffic on Road — Devastated Country— Yang-Pi River — Chain Suspension-bridge — Perversities of the Path — T'ai-P'ing-P'u — Lofty Hamlet of Tou- Po-Shao — Dearth of Population — Traces of War — Chestnut and Oak Woods — Descent to Plain of Yung-P'ing-Hsien — The Town destroyed — View of the Mekong or Lan-T'sang River — Chain CONTENTS. 13 PAGE Bridge across it — Desperate Ascent — Ta-Li-Shao — Pan-Ch'iao — Rice Macaroni — Polo's Salt Loaves again — His ' Vochan ' and the ' Parlous Fight ' there — Yung-Chang-Fu — A General on the March — A Quarrel Imminent, but the General is drawn off — Stones and Beads brought for Sale — Recent Plague on the Road . . . 256