A Summer Tour in the Grisons and Italian Valleys of the Bernina

Front matter

MR. MERIVALE'S WORK ON COLONIZATION. Just published, in One Volume, 8vo. price 18.v. COLONIZATION and COLONIES Being a Series of Lecturec delivered before the University of Oxford in 1839, 40, and 41. By HERMAN MERIVALE, M.A. PROFESSOR OF POLITICAL ECONOMY. Second Edition, with Notes and Additions. " rFHESE led ures were delivered -*- at a time when by a series of most iinpoitx ; ubi c attention bad bn tn our colonial dependencies, 'i h ition of tlie sla< I ukIk ; the Cm MO. J ' I our tt the change ft' l.i ti »n io t'^e ti cobnial pron the rise of e new s who contemplated - extension of the Ui our distant ■!« of internal m mercialsn ed hai imoted lhe hiJ jeci of Pr« ires with deep . when they ed ben re an University ti u;ence twenty yrars ago. They are now renublislied, the text being sub stantially tlie same, but supplied wiih appenoi.-s which brine the course of tvents down to the present time.

But the onward current has been so rapid ; principles so novel and daring: have been promulgated and acied on: in ternal resources have been developed on so gigantic a scale— by immigra tion, reliance to the introduction of convicts, the gold discoveries, colonial experts mid imports, and the progress of self-g". eminent— as to place the subject still more prominently before the pcblic, and to compel all readers > bn take cognisance of political event* itch with anxious interest the ueve" -I tne t. . colonisation. Pr. fessor in^ id lh' I- .it. : -•■■r -.::. rv of the jirogrihFnstlif i lonie.- oi modern t.un-pe, Wwt litiu.--, ..n.. t., Hi.- I'urtueu-m, hutch, and treuch , huu uur i UXst Iddies, North America, South \l i< and Australia ; with a. sketch of BHBsh Colonisation generally, aud oi Ninth American colonies to thj« time when the ill-advised ineasnresof the home government led to their seve rance from the British nation.

In the second part, the Professor treats ofthe economical effects of colonisation on the parent state, showing lhe effect of emigration on tlie progres a of popula tion aud wealth, and on tbe relations between capital and labour; the in fluence resulting from the exportation of capital which lakes place in the pro cess of colonising; ond the svstem of colonial tn.de generally, with remarks ou tlie restrictions on the import and i he third aud larger portion of the volume in devoted to an inquiry into the progress of wealth aud society in the colonies; and in this almost illimitable field the author treats ol the threefold elements of prosperity in new colonies— land, capital, and labour, and under the in-t-n uned divi sion enters f.t length into an explana tion of the various means resorted to in order to secure an attenuate suppU, by subjugating native races, or by im porting convicts i r Blaves from other parts of the world A concluding division of the work is devoted to au investigation of the progress of wealth, rates of wages and proms, aud tax ation ; to colonial expenditure, u of supporting public institutions, the position ofthe Kctabljshed Church ; and finally to the so'ial and political characteristics of colonial communi ties, the political relation of colonies to ther country, and the principles i. ment. — We haw .11 Ills l-xtt-1,-1* I, pire.** MlJ.iJ.lMj ( LIM It> HcJULD.

Chapter I. Introductoky

Aus die Berge will ich steigen, Wo die hohen Tannen stehen ; — Aus die Berge will ich steigen, Wo die freien Liifte wehen ! TT is now an established fact, that Switzerland Jholds an important position as one of the most popular and accessible resorts of those who seek health and pleasure at a distance from home ; but a natural result of the yearly increasing facilities for rapid travelling is, that hitherto secluded Alpine nooks are almost overrun, while the rushing crowd circling round Chamounix, and dispersed through the Oberland, destroys the enjoyment formerly found by B INTEODUCTOET 2 travellers who sought relief from the shackles of conventional life. Our previous wanderings had already led us through the Alpine byways of the western side of Switzerland, and therefore we gladly welcomed some hints given to us last winter by a friend, who di rected our attention to the comparatively unknown scenery of the Grisons.

The chain of the Rhætian Alps, stretching from the St. Gothard to the distant Tyrol, rises to its greatest height in the grand central group, whose rocky ridges and ice-clad pinnacles, like natural battlements, mark the boundary line be tween Lombardy and the Graubunden cantons of Eastern Switzerland. Here the many-headed Ber nina shines forth as the brightest ornament of the Rhætian crown, yielding in magnificent beauty only to Mont Blanc or the queenly Monte Rosa. We soon found that little definite knowledge was to be gathered at home, but we gleaned hints sufficient to direct our course towards the Ober Engadine and the mountainous district which lies between the Inn and the Adda. Secluded valleys, and peaks as yet unknown, even by name, there promised the charm of novelty, combined with some of the most lovely scenery inclosed within the Alps.

THE GEISONS 3 The season of 1861, the finest and warmest which had been known for many years among the mountains, was peculiarly calculated for excursions in a region where the elevation of the valleys is generally from 5000 to 6000 feet above the sea. Our hopes of enjoyment were more than realised, and each day's experience increased our surprise at finding a country so accessible, and abounding with every element of beauty, left to the almost undisturbed possession of the Bergamesque herdsmen and their flocks. I have often seen a long line of sheep following each other along a narrow track, when the whole mountain side was open before them for choice of way ; and if occasionally the herbage scattered on either side seemed to tempt a wanderer from the beaten path, such an exception was but rare.

Most travellers, acting on the same principle, follow where others lead. Thus it happens, that while Zermatt, Chamounix, and the Bernese Oberland overflow with the current that sets in upon them, the equally beautiful scenery of the Bunder Oberland and the Grisons, comprised in the Rhætian range, is left unvisited by the tide. Lone may its deep recesses and mountain soli tudes remain undisturbed by visions of crinoline and knickerbockers ! There are many, however, who love Nature in her freshness, who are prepared to B INTBODUCTOEY enjoy her beauties even at the cost of occasional rough lodging and some personal exertion, — and who can, when necessary, confine their wardrobes within the Limits of a carpet-bag. In the hope of indi cating new scenes of interest and beauty to such kindred spirits, I am induced to publish these sketches of our pleasant rambles during the past summer.

In directing attention to a district at present so little known, I shall not confine my suggestions to excursions adapted to even the most enterprising ladies. My object has been to gather together any knowledge gained from the recent personal experience of others, as well as my own, and I am much indebted to those who have kindly placed such information at my disposal. The recent successful ascent of the Piz Bernina, by two members of the Alpine Club, will probably excite a more extended interest in this mountain range; and the details of our summer journey may prove useful to those who wish for more information than is afforded by the necessarily short notices added in the last edition of Murray. The accommodation at present provided for tra vellers in the Ober Engadine and the valleys around the Bernina is limited ; but at the principal places travellers' fare 5 it will be found as comfortable as in the mountain inns of the Bernese Oberland.

This district of the Grisons has hitherto been so little visited by the English, that German habits prevail, not always agreeable to our tastes. There is, however, a strong and general desire to attract our countrymen, as well as every disposition to meet their wants. The charges at the inns are apparently in a transition state, and are very varying ; and we often found that the amount bore an amusing disproportion to the value received. The food provided might not always suit a fasti dious taste, for fresh meat cannot be depended upon, even in the large villages ; but the bread was usually sweet, and when accompanied by fresh butter with good mountain cheese, there was little reason for complaint.* The marked peculiarity of these valleys is the general use of the Romansch dialect, by which the traveller may be sometimes inconvenienced if with- * A rough luncheon-basket is a convenient and valuable travelling companion.

The one which we always take contains some tea, a little arrowroot, and a small supply of Fortnum and Mason's port able soup ; a wicker-covered pint-bottle for wine or brandy, an Etna, with spirits of wine, a few common spoons, &c. Thus provided we were quite independent of the assistance of others, and could boil the kettle even on the mountain sides. INTRODUCTORY 6 out a local guide. The people may possibly guess your wants if expressed in patois Italian, or bad German ; but your case is hopeless if mutual com munication is needed to help you through a difficulty. The strange intermingling of tongues may be noticed in the various terms employed to denote the same object. Thus, within a very small circle, a mountain summit is described as a Horn, Monte, Cima, Spitze, and Pizzo ; Valle and Thai are substi tuted for each other ; while around the Bernina group, Vadret, or Vadretta, would commonly be better understood than Firn or Gletscher.

We found it unsafe to depend upon local informa tion as to time or distance ; indeed, except at Pon tresina, no efficient guides exist. We had fortunately picked up, en route, Professor Theobald's ' Natur bilder aus dem Rathischen Al pen,' which, aided by the hints gained from a little book on the ' Bernina Gruppe,' published by Dr. Lechner (the Protestant pastor of St. Moritz), enabled us to arrange our movements with some degree of confidence. The map attached to Dr. Lechner's book will be found very useful. It is published in a separate cover, and seems to be in general favour among the guides around the Bernina. I have not hesitated to avail myself of the information acquired from the above sources, as well BOOKS OF REFERENCE 7 as from the following works : ' Der Canton Graubun den,' which forms the fifteenth volume of Roder and Tscharner's 'Gemalde der Schweiz,' compressing a vast amount of knowledge into a small compass, and ' Des Schweizerland's Geschichte,' by Zschokke, which gives a slight sketch of some of the most interesting his torical events by which the tranquillity of these valleys was formerly disturbed.

Von Tschudi's ' Thierleben der Alpenwelt ' will be peculiarly interesting, as a companion, in a region so frequently referred to in his pages, and with which the name of the artist Georgy, his friend and illustrator, is so intimately associated. Our family trio was again joined by the friend to whose pencil I am so much indebted, and we were as usual accompanied by our good friend Couttet. We knew that he was unacquainted with the moun tain region which we intended to explore ; but we were sure that his general knowledge of Alpine travelling would be useful, and we were not disposed to dispense with the comfort derived from his attendance. Couttet has now the advantage of being the only guide either at Chamounix or in the Oberland who is practically acquainted with the byways of the Bernina.

The gratifying reception given to the ' Light Leaves' gathered during previous summers will, I INTRODUCTORY 8 trust, be considered an excuse for the appearance of these sketches. If I am thought to presume upon the kindness already shown to an unknown writer, I may shelter myself under the suggestion made by an able weekly Review*, that ' Byways in profusion remain to be explored, and there will be no lack of matter for another volume.' * Saturday Beview, June 29th, 1861.

Chapter II. Lucerne To Stachelberg

spHE most direct and speedy route to the Gri- -*- sons is by the railroad from Basle to Zurich and Chur, whence an easy carriage journey of two days brings the traveller over the Julier Pass to St. Moritz, at the head of the Ober Engadine. We wished, however, to revisit Stachelberg, and, after adding to our knowledge of the scenery around the Linththal, to cross the Segnes Pass, — the connecting link between the villages of Elm, in Canton Glarus, and Flims, in the valley of the Unter-Rhein. Mr. Forster gives an interesting description of this pass in his contribution to ' Peaks and Passes,' and we thought that a few days might well be spent in making some of the excursions which he recommends. With this view we decided to approach the moun tains from Lucerne, and, having left Basle (that LUCERNE TO STACHELBEEG 10 noisiest of Sunday resting-places !) at six o'clock on Monday, August 5th, we reached the lake before eleven, and were soon joined at the Schweitzer Hof by Couttet, who was waiting our arrival.

The heat and glare of the mid-day sun offered no inducement to linger, and after a few necessary purchases, we were ready to leave, by the steamer up the lake, at two o'clock. On either side, Pilatus and the Righi raised their now rival crests against the cloudless sky. A new hotel has lately been built just below the summit of Pilatus, and the extended panorama commanded by its greater height will probably attract many who would otherwise have been satisfied by a night on the Righi. The access, particularly from the side of Alpnach, is quite easy and safe on horseback. Two routes to Stachelberg were open to us from Lucerne. The most direct would have been to leave the lake at Brunnen, and, after passing through Schweitz, to sleep at Muotta. There is a horse-path up the valley from thence as far as Eigen, whence a foot-path traverses the Bisithal, and makes a rapid descent down the mountain side, and through the woods, above the baths of Stachelberg.

We had already been as far as Muotta, on our way by the Pragel Pass to Glarus, but of the further portion of the route we could obtain no information, and not ALT0EF 11 wishing to risk needless difficulties at the outset, we adopted the more prudent course of going on to Fluellen and Altorf, and thence over the Klausen Pass to the Linththal. While we enjoyed the beautiful scenery of the lake, Couttet was employed in gaining some know ledge of the journey which we had traced out. He was found in a quiet corner, with Leuthold's map spread out before him, receiving a lesson in geography from my son. During the evening, after our arrival at Altorf, arrangements were made for horses to carry us across the Klausen. The charges here are extrava gant, and our requirements were large : two horses for the gentlemen were engaged only to the summit of the pass ; those for the ladies, with an animal to carry the baggage, were to be taken all the way to Stachelberg.

As usual, we were detained the next morning, waiting for the convoy : at last all were assembled, and we were on our way at a quarter past six. The early part of the ride was extremely pretty. Passing the picturesque church and village of Burglen, celebrated as the birthplace of William Tell, the way gradually leads upwards, through the richly-wooded Schachenthal, to Spiringen, where a nice-looking LUCERNE TO STACIIELBEEG 12 country inn appeared to have been newly built. We rode on to Unter-Schachen, where the horses rested for half an hour. The scenery around is fine, par ticularly looking up a valley which opens out to the right, closed bythe glaciers and snowy peaks, through which there is a difficult and little-used foot-path to the Maderanerthal and Amsteg. Through the moun tain range to the left, a way over the Kinzig Culm leads to Muotta.

It was over these wild regions that, in September, 1799, Suwarrow brought the Rus sian hordes, in his celebrated march from the St. Gothard, when thousands perished amidst the awful precipices and unknown dangers by which they were encompassed. Under ordinary circumstances the route through the valley does not now deserve the description given of it by Alison, as ' the rugged and almost impracticable pass of the Schachenthal.' Above the village the view was closed by the rocky ridge ofthe Balmwand, towards which the path wound upwards, with the cascade of the Staubi forming a very pretty object on the right. The way was rough and stony ; over steep rocks, amongst which the horses scrambled and slipped about so unpleasantly that we preferred trusting to our own feet, although the blaze of unclouded sunshine made the climb hot and fa tiguing.

At the head of the pass, we mounted again, THE KLAUSEN 13 to ride for half an hour over a plateau of rough pas ture ground, which extends across the summit of the Klausen ; from whence the gentlemen's horses were sent back to Altorf. There is no grand view here, but the scenery is wild and fine ; the ridge over which we passed forming a connecting link between the snowy range of the Clariden, on the south, and the shattered precipices of the Glatten on the north, amidst which a huge tower of rock rises up, and forms a most striking object. The horses required another rest at the chalets of Urnerboden, where there is a small chapel and a rough inn. The people were kindly mannered, and very civil, although, being well provided with luncheon, we asked for nothing but some fresh milk. Below this a very gradual descent, over moist pas tures, led to a much more interesting portion of our ride.

A gate shows the boundary between the can tons of Uri and Glarus, where the path enters a wooded glade, and then winds along the banks of a noisy stream, amidst rich foliage and vegetation. The wild woodland scene was very beautiful : the rock strewn ground was covered with ferns and flowers, of luxuriant growth, in full bloom. Amongst them the willow herb threw up its graceful pink heads, mingled with the darker colouring of the monk's-hood, and LUCEBNE TO STACHELBERG 14 lighted up by a profusion of delicate yellow fox glove, and rich golden-flowered ragworts. The lilac cacalia, which has recently become a fashionable greenhouse plant, was also very abundant. We emerged from the woods at the top of a long and steep descent, unsuited for riding, beyond which the Linththal was extended before us ; here we dismounted, and walked down to the banks of the river, at the head of the valley.

The Fiitsch bach finds its way down the mountain side in a succession of cascades, and, after a grand final leap over the rocks, unites itself with the Linth. It is about an hour's ride down the valley to the baths of Stachelberg, which are beautifully placed in park-like grounds, rather above the river, and shel tered by the wooded heights which rise immediately in the rear. We were fortunate in obtaining the only unoccupied rooms in the house, which seems to over flow with visitors, notwithstanding the large additions it has recently received. We found ourselves the only English party there, German being the almost uni versal tongue. Our first expedition was to the Pantenbruch and lower Sand Alp. We rode up the valley as far as a chalet inn, dignified as the ' Wirthhaus Dodi,' from whence one of the men who accompanied THE PANTENBEUCH 15 the horses was to act as guide.

An hour's walk up the mountain side brought us to the wild and magnificent gorge, spanned by the Panten bruch, where the river has forced its narrow channel through the dark rocks at a vast depth below. The upward view of the Dodi is fine ; with a picturesque foreground, where luxuriant beech trees mingled with the firs which spring from every rocky knoll. After crossing the Bruch our guide led us up a sharp ascent, by which we reached some cattle chalets, whence the view in both directions was very beautiful, the Glarnisch being now a prominent feature rising beyond the valley of the Linth. The Dodi here towers so grandly above the snowy Cla riden and Biferten, on either side, that one wonders why it has been hitherto neglected by our Alpine climbers. The crest is formed, not of one point, but of three summits crowned with a vast glacier plateau, which is upheld by enormous walls of dark rugged rock.

Many attempts were made, commen cing with those of Spescha in the last century, to conquer the difficulties of the ascent. At length, in 1837, two hunters reached the summit and planted a flag there. Their example was not followed until the 13th of August, 1853, when Professor Ulrich, accompanied by several guides, started from the STACHELBERG 16 Sand Alp, and accomplished the ascent, of which he has published an account. The Dodi has been mounted only once since, by a gentleman from Berne. Having bestowed a full meed of admiration on the scene around us, we proposed to continue our walk to the Sand Alp, and get a nearer view of these grand glaciers. We could trace the pathway winding through the pastures, and along the mountain, on the further side of the river, and asked the lad how we were to reach it ; at first he pretended not to under stand us, and then vehemently asserted that there was no bridge higher up : indeed he assured us that there was no way up the gorge without recrossing the Pantenbruch, — adding that it was much too late to undertake a further distance which would occupy six hours.

On this point his story was supported by a man who now joined us from the Kisten Alp above, and we allowed our faith in Murray to be shaken by their united protestations. The man, however, showed us where the footpath which we were seeking diverged through the woods, up the left bank of the stream, and our would-be guide then confessed that he had never been to the Sand Alp, and knew nothing about it. He followed us very discontentedly when we turned upwards, but we were determined at least SUDDEN STORM 17 to see the ravine, which is very grand where the noisy Limmat rushes down from the Selbsanft, through a desolate-looking cleft in the rocks, to join the Linth. A little higher up the needful bridge appeared : and after ascending a kind of ridge beyond it, we saw the path stretching away up the narrow valley, closed by the rocks and glaciers of the Dodi.

So much time had been lost, that we now decided to let my son push forward with Couttet, while we slowly retraced our steps through the gorge, and tried to find a sketch from above the Pantenbruch. My friend was thus busily employed, when clouds began to obscure the higher summits ; the character of the scene around us changed, and distant mutter ings of thunder gave warning of the storm, which was advancing quickly up the valley. We were for tunately provided with umbrellas, but were glad to seek the shelter afforded by the trees. At the end of an hour, just as the pouring rain began to abate, we caught sight of D and Couttet, racing down the now flooded pathway, looking like drowned rats. They hastened forward to the inD, and we soon fol lowed them down the dripping and slippery mountain side.

A brew of Couttet's mull was quickly pre pared, to counteract the chill, and by the time justice had been done to its merits, the sky had cleared, c STACHELBEEG 18 and we were able to ride back comfortably to Stach elberg. Perhaps it was as well, as it happened, that my son had gone on without the rest of our party; but he proved that there was nothing in the distance to have prevented our carrying out our original plan. It was a lesson never to allow well-considered arrange ments to be interfered with by local information. An hour after leaving us, D and Couttet had passed the chalets of the lower Sand Alp, which they found deserted. Beyond this they had crossed the stream, and gained a grand view of the Biferten glacier, which seems to resemble the Rosenlaui in the purity of its colouring.

The scene was a magnificent cul-de-sac ; very wild and imposing, enclosed by tremendous precipices. The Linth, rising amidst these glaciers, forms an unusually fine fall over the rocks to the right. My son thought it would be imprudent to ascend further, and they prepared to return just as the storm rushed up the gorge, leaving them no al ternative but to encounter a shower bath, and make the best of their way through it. Their descent was of course very rapid under such circumstances, and they reached the Dodi Hotel in less than an hour and a quarter from the Sand Alp. The name of Placidus Spescha has been mentioned in connection with the earliest attempts to ascend PLACIDUS SPESCHA 19 the Dodi, and it may not be uninteresting to refer to the history of a man who drew attention to this mountain region, at a time when his self-imposed labours in scientific research, and as a naturalist, were little known or appreciated.

Born at Trons, as a boy Spescha tended his father's flocks upon the Alpine pastures around his home, and at an early age began to indulge in solitary wanderings amidst the mountains, where he found amusement in climb ing the precipitous crags in search of crystals and minerals. He became a priest in the monastery of Disentis, and eventually he removed to Einsiedlin, where new stores of knowledge were opened to his inquiring mind, and he devoted every energy to their acqui sition. The love of nature, however, prevailed over the charms of scholastic learning, and Spescha quitted cloister life to return to his beloved soli tudes. He penetrated into the wildest recesses of the mountain-world, associating with the Berga mesque shepherds, often sleeping in their huts and sharing their rough fare.

He now investigated minutely the previously unknown geography and natural history of the Bunder Oberland, while the works of Saussure, which fell into his hands about this time, led him to seek acquaintance with God, amidst His c STACHELBERG 20 grandest works. He drew maps, and wrote detailed descriptions of the geological formation of the region, from which science would have benefited largely; but, unfortunately, all his collections and writings were either dispersed or destroyed during the troubles caused by the French invasion in 1799, when the monastery of Disentis was burnt. Spe scha's studies were not understood by his brethren, who misrepresented them as unchristian and dangerous to religion ; but his character and acquirements commanded respect, even when he was carried away as a hostage to Innspruck.

At the end of eighteen months he was allowed to return to Switzerland, and closed his life as the pastor of his native place. His ruling passion was i-trong to the last. At the age of seventy he renewed his attempts to ascend the Dodi ; but was unsuccessful. Some fragments of his later works are still preserved ; they are said to display the vast circle of his knowledge, and to excite surprise at the originality of the views set forth by the old father. One more day was devoted to Stachelberg, to en able us to mount the Saasberg, which Mr. Forster recommends as a beautiful view-point, and quite an excursion for ladies, where a mule may be ser viceable. In answer to our inquiries, the last sug- ASCENT OF THE SAASBERG 21 gestion was decidedly negatived : mules do not seem to be used here for riding ; there are a few good horses, but they are evidently little accustomed to mountain scrambling, — and we were assured that the Saasberg must be ascended on foot.

From our after experience, I think that the pathway is quite un suited for anything but pedestrians ; a horse might perhaps be used for the first hour, but certainly not further. A man, who really knew the way, was en gaged to accompany us, and at half-past six we started ; this was at leatt an hour too late, but we did not then anticipate the after-heat of the day, and as yet we were scarcely broken in to our usual early hours. After crossing the valley of the Linth, and the stream which flows down the Duruathal, the ascent began at once up the wooded hill-side to a group of chalets, an hour distant from the Baths. Here the path to the Richetli Pass and Elm is seen, for some distance, creeping up the Durnathal. We kept more to the left, and after passing over some meadows, our way mounted very rapidly through woods, or wound along the mountain brow, occasionally skirt inocrullies, where the streams had worn themselves deep channels.

At one spot a beautiful glade opened through the fir forest, forming an avenue, so formal STACHELBERG in itself and so perfect in the vista which it opened, both above and below our path, that it seemed to have been arranged for scenic effect. The broken walls of an old enclosure marked the half way, where we rested awhile, and refreshed ourselves with the strawberries which grew abundantly on the banks. Soon afterwards the ascent became very steep, and we felt the growing power of the sun ere we reached an Alp above, where several peasants were busy pre paring the hay to carry down into the valleys. They looked surprised at seeing our party, and one man remarked that it was not a way for ' Frauen.' Although not difficult, it certainly was exhausting in such heat. We were now upon a grassy ridge, commanding a fine view towards Glarus, and of the valley which separated us from the Freiberge group.