Up the Nile, and Home again. A handbook for travellers ... With ... illustrations ... from original sketches by the author

Front matter

UP THE NILE. j'.W Fan-holt, del. et Sc Vincent Brooks , Imp STREET IN CAIRO. UP THE NILE, AND HOME AGAIN. A HANDBOOK TOR TRAVELLERS AND A TRAVEL-BOOK EOR THE LIBRARY. BY F. W. FAIRHOLT, F.S.A., HONOBABY MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUABIES OF NOBMANDY, PICAEDY, AND POITIEBS. AUTHOR OF " COSTUME IN ENGLAND," ETC. ETC. Wtify ©ite fuintoii liMratimts, FEOM ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY, 1862. [ The right of Translation reserved.] LONDON : PRINTED BT JAMES S. VIRTUE, CIT7 ROAD. TO THE LORD LONDESBOROUGH, flits W$alvm is giMaiej), BY ITS AUTHOE, IN PLEASANT AND GRATEFUL MEMORY OF THE VOYAGE WHICH ORIGINATED IT.

Preface

. Some few words may be necessary in explanation of the motives which have induced this addition to the library of Nile literature. A bronchial affection had rendered it necessary for the Author to seek a warmer winter climate than our own ; and Lord Londesborough, with the kind con sideration of an old friend, having given him the privilege of being his travelling companion, up a river whose history and associations had always been of paramount interest to him, he started with no other idea than that of re-establishing health, and investigating, for his own instruction, the wondrous remains of early art on the banks of the Nile. During the voyage, sketches and notes accumulated, and appeared at last to assume an interest sufficient to warrant the compilation of this Volume. Eschewing elaborate details of architectural remains, which have been abundantly described else-

PREFACE.

. where, the aim of the present volume is chiefly to narrate the aspect of the river, its towns and their inhabitants; and to describe what strikes the eye and mind of a stranger most forcibly on a first visit to "the land of Mizraim." The absorbing interest of the antique remains has hitherto precluded much notice of ordinary life on the Nile. Many picturesque and important towns have never been represented, even in the most elaborate and expensive illustrated books; while the social, geological, and other features of the country have received less notice than usual • to those, therefore, the Author has devoted his chief attention ; and the illustrations of the present volume comprise subjects (with very few exceptions) hitherto unengraved. The traveller will find in Wilkinson and Lane's works, on the ancient and modern Egyptians, all that he wdl require in elucidation of their manners.

They are indispensable companions to the tour. The good practical character of these books, com bined with their perfect scholarship, give them the utmost value. It may be well to note here, that the Author has adopted "Wilkinson's chronology through out ; because ancient Egyptian dates generally varying (and sometimes to a great extent) according to

PREFACE.

. the conclusions of different students, some one must be selected as a guide, and none are characterised by sounder sense than Wilkinson. The Illustrations to this volume have been selected from more than two hundred sketches made on the river and its banks, by the Author, and afterwards engraved by his own hand, with the exception of the woodcuts, which having been drawn upon the wood by him, were very carefully executed by his friend Mr. Henry Rimbault. This is the oiily assistance, literary or artistic, which the Author has received. The Nile traveller will do the book and its author good service, by noting any facts that may be added to a future edition. Its great and only aim is to be useful to the voyager — out and home again ; and to be truthful to those who consult it exclusively at home. ANALYTICAL TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Voyage To Alexandria

Arrangements by Steamboat from Southampton. — Bay of Biscay. — Gibraltar. — Malta. — First View of Egypt pages I — 13

Chapter II. Alexandria To Cairo

Egyptian Donkeys and Donkey-boys. — Shopkeepers' English. — The Old and New Town. — Buying and Selling. — Pipes and Tobacco. — Characteristics of Alexandria. — Picturesque Localities. — Women Porters. — Antiquities. — Cleopatra's Needle. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Arab Town. — Backsheesh. — The Catacombs. — The Mahmoudie Canal. — Railway to Cairo. — Agricultural Statistics of the Delta. — First View of Cairo. — Railway Confusion 14 — 40

Chapter III. Cairo And The Pyramids

Picturesque Character of Cairo. — Old and New Styles. — Descriptions by Sandys and Volney. — Eye Diseases. — The Uzbeekeah. — The Mooskee. — The Bab Zooayleh, and Charms against Diseases. — The CONTENTS. Citadel. — Mosques. — Prejudices Removed. — Bazaars. — Lamps. — Running Footmen.— Dogs. — Shoubra Gardens. — Fostat. — Mediæ val Babylon.— The Nilometer. — Ghizeh. — The Pyramids. — The Sphinx 41—76

Chapter IV. Boulak To Minieh

The Pasha's Museum, at Boulak. — The Dahabeah, ita Crew and General Arrangements. — Dragomen. — The Island of El Rodah. — Pyramids at Abouseer. — Mummied Bulls. — The Sakkara Pyramids. — Site of Memphis. — Mummied Ibis. — Pyramids at Dashour. — Quarries at Masarah. — The Bahr Yussuf . — The False Pyramid. — Aspect of the River. — The Sakia and Shadoof. — Village Houses. — Geological Features. — Monotony of the River. — Traffic Boats. — Shooting on the Nile. — Wild Birds. — Pigeon Villages. — Benisouef. — The Norek. — Nile Fishes. — Evening at Bibbeh. — Fantastic Rocks at Malateah. — Sharouna. — Ancient Quarries. — Peasant and Bedouin. — Village Life. — The Gebel-el-Tayr. — Convent of Sittina and its Mendicant Monks 77 — 126

Chapter V. Minieh To Siout

A Busy Scene. — Sugar Manufactory. — Victualling the Boat. — Egyptian pictures of Steamers. — The Evil Eye. — Superstitious Credulity. — Ancient Sepulchres. — Charon's Boat. — Fertility of the Land. — Grain Boats and cheating Crews. — Games of the Peasants. — Boat Discipline. — Beni-Hassan and its Wondrous Tombs. — Arab Thieves. — Cave of Diana. — Local Names. — Antinopolis. — Destruction of aAncient Monuments. — Beauty of the River. — The Bahr Yussuf. — Construction of Canals. — The Birds of Sheikh Said. Tel-el- Amarna. — Gebel Abou-Fayda. — Slave-Boats. — Slavery in Egypt.— The Doum-Palm.— Manfaloot and the Crocodile Caverns. — Reasons for Crocodile Worship 127 CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter VI. Siout To Keneh

Beautiful situation of Siout. — Conscription and its consequences. — Trade of Siout. — Pottery. — Tobacco Pipes. — The Bazaar. — John of Lycopolis. — The Ancient Egyptian Hermits. — Boatmen's Songs.— Antæopolis. — Tahta. — Vast flocks of Birds. — Gebel Sheikh Hereede and its fabulous Serpent. — Sculptured Caves. — Foul Winds. — The White Convent. — Ekhmim. — Myriads of Pigeons. — Worship of Pan. — Coptic Christians. — Mensheeh. — Girgeh. — Encroachments of the River. — Ruins of Abydus. — Plan of aAncient Egyptian Temples. — Shepherds of the Plain. — Slings and Slingers, Egyptian and Saxon. — Farming in Egypt, its risks and cares. — The Market at Bellianeh. — Cheap Jewellery. — A Travelling Blacksmith and his forge. — Dancing-girls, and their punishment by the local Governor. — Crocodiles. — Good Shooting. — A " Holy Man," his history and aspect. — Monotony of the River. — Keneh and its trade. — The Governor's House. — Conscription again. — Interview with the Pasha. — The Inn of the Pilgrims to Mecca. — Pottery manufacture at Keneh. — A Busy Bazaar. — A Moolid . . . 169 — 230

Chapter VII. Keneh To Thebes

Egyptian English. — " Seeing the Saint." — A Trip to the Holy Fair. — Its Religious and its Secular Scenes. — The Zikr. — Dancinggirls. — Arab Jereed-p]aj. — Dendera. — Portrait of Cleopatra. — Chambers of Mystery. — Sanctuary on the roof. — Water-Spouts. — Colony of Wasps. — The Sacred Cow, and its worship by modern Sepoys. — The Typhoneum. — Dexterity of the ancient Tentyrites in capturing Crocodiles. — An Egyptian Tumbler. — Ballas and its Water-jars. — A Pottery Raft. — Sunset on the Nile. — Peculiar atmospheric effects. — Ancient Cities. — Negadeh. — The Malayet. — Christian Monks. — Pigeon-Towers. — Egyptian dirt and laziness. — Encroachment of the River. — Vast flocks of birds. — Approach CONTENTS. XIV to Thebes.— Luxor and its Consuls.— Dealers in Antiquities — The Forgers of Gournou.— Tricks on Travellers.— Rain in Egypt. 231-271

Chapter VIII. Ancient Thebes

Guides for Travellers.— The Libyan Shore.— The Colossi of the Plain, — The Vocal Memnon and the secret of its voice. — Village of Gournou. — Clay Ovens. — The Peasantry and their Houses. — Forged Antiquities. — The Rameseum and its ColossalStatue. — Belzoni and Memnon's head. — Difficulty of its Removal. — Temple of Amun. — Tomb of the Family of Amunoph III. — Vandalism of Dr. Lepsius. — Tombs on the hill sides. — Mummies of Cats. — Sacred Cats. — Witches' Cats. — The Brickmaker's Tomb. — Sepulchres of the Assaseef. — The Biban-el-Malook. — Tombs of the Kings, and their desecration. — Egyptian Theology. — Sacred Animals and Symbols. — The Harper's Tomb. — Belzoni's Tomb — its alabaster Sarcophagus — its mystic Pictures. — Disgraceful desecration by Europeans. — Dr. Lepsius again. — The Mountain-road. — The Plain of Thebes. — The Palace-Temple at Medinet-Abou. — Conventional representation. — An early Greek Church. — Tombs of the Queens. — Karnac. — Recent Excavations, and how effected. — Grandeur and vastness of the Ruins. — Sculptured representation of King Rehoboam. — Guides and Donkey-Boys. — Luxor and its Obelisks. — The Temple and its bassi-relievi. — Art made fragmentary 272 — 329

Chapter IX. Thebes To Edfou

Farewell to Luxor. — Erment. — Cleopatra's Temple. — Beauty of -Ancient Art. — Art in its designed locality. — Crocodilopolis. — Gebel-Ain. — The Crocodile and the Zic-zac. — Esne. — The Great Temple. — The Bazaar. — The Roman Quay. — Effects of the Inundations. — Dancing Girls and Mohamed Ali. — A Fantasia. Style CONTENTS. XV of Dancing, and lineage of Dancers. — European Manners criticised by Egyptian moralists.— El-Kab and its Tombs.— The Great Temple at Edfou, and its recent exhumation. — Grand character of the building. — Purity of its condition, and appeal for its due protection 330—359

Chapter X. Edfou To Assouan

The Ruined Town of Booayb. — Gebel Silsilis, its vast Quarries and curious Rock Temples. — The Legend of the chain. — Geology of the cliffs. — Changes in the stream. — Temple at Kom-Ombos. — Dryness of the climate. — Juvenal's description of the Religious Feud between the Ombites and Tentyrites. — Beauty of the River. — Nubian Costume. — Nose-rings. — Ear-rings. — Tattooing. — Walkingstaves, Ancient and Modern. — First View of Assouan. — Trade of the Town. — Isle of Elephantine. — Vast heaps of broken Pottery. — Inscribed Tiles. — Arab Traditionary Tale. — Ancient and Modern Aspect of Assouan. — Boatmen of the Cataract. — Boat Charges. — Inscribed Rocks. — Quarries. — Scripture Prophecy fulfilled 360—392

Chapter XI. Assouan To

PHILÆ AND ABOU-SIMBOUL. Experiences of Desert Travel. — Ancient Boundary Wall and its legendary history. — Mahatta and the Cataract. — Passage of a boat. — Island of Philæ. — Christian remains. — Disfigurement of buildings by modern inscriptions. — Pharaoh's Bed. — Admiration felt by the Ancient Egyptians for the Island. — Imposition on its Priests, and their protective policy. — Scenery of the River. — Temples at Dabod, Kardassy, and Tafa. — Kalabshe and its inhabitants, their Dress and Costume. — The Tropic entered. — Dandour, CONTENTS. Gyrshe, and Dakke.— The Valley of Lions.— Deir.— The Fortress of Ibreem.— The Rock Temples at Abou-Simboul.— Wady Halfeh, and the Second Cataract 393—429

Chapter XII. The Nile In Its Sacred And Sanatory Aspect

— THE RETURN VOYAGE. Great interest of Egyptian Studies. — The Nile Deified. — The God, as pictured by Egyptian, Greek, and Roman .Artists. — Sanatory properties attributed to the Stream. — Fertility of Egypt. — Analysation of the Soil. — Notes on the Climate of the Valley of the Nile. — Violent changes in its temperature. — Advice to Travellers. — Summary of advantage and disadvantage in Nile Travelling. — Start for Cairo. — The Return Voyage. — Boatmen's speculative traffic. — Old scenes from new points of view. — The Evil Eye avoided. — Routes from Alexandria home 430 — LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PLATE . PAGE I. — Street in Cairo ... Frontispiece, described 48 The God of the Nile ... Vignette on Title, described 434 Grocer's Shop at -Alexandria 20 Catacomb at AJexandria ... ... 32 First View of Cairo 38 Charms against Disease ... ... ... ... 50 II. — Gate of the Kuan Kiialeel 54 An Egyptian Lamp ... ... ... ... ... 54 The Meshal or Cresset ... ... ... ... ... 55 The Nilometer 61 The Ring of Cheops .' 67 Ancient Egyptian Ear-ring 70 Excavations at the Sphinx 73 The Dahabeah 79 Nile Boats leaving Cairo ... ... ... ... 85 Mode of building Pyramids ... ... ... ... 88 Mummied Bull 89 Pyramid at Sakkara ... ... ... ... ... 91 Mummied Ibis ... ... 93 Pyramids of Dashour 95 The False Pyramid at Maydoun 97 TheSakia 99 The Shadoof 101 Ancient Shadoof 102 Geological View at Zaytoun ... 106 Traffic Boats of the Nile 108 Grain and Straw Boats 109 Ferry Boat Ill ILLUSTRATIONS.

PLATE PAGE III. — Pigeon Village near Benisouef 112 The Norek 113 Stratification of Rocks at Malateah 116 IV. — Siiarouna 117 Quarry at Sheikh Hassan ... ... ... •■■ 118 Pigeon-house, Golosaneh ... ••• 120 V. — The Convent of Sittina ... ... ... ••■ 123 VI.— Minieh ... • 129 Egyptian Pictures of Steamboats ... ... ... 130 Rock-tombs at Beni-Hassan ... ... 140 VII. — Interior of Tomb at Beni-Hassan ... ... ... 145 Southern Tomb at Beni-Hassan 148 The Doum Palm 161 Mummied Crocodile . ... ... ... ... 165 Water-bottle made at Siout ... ... 173 Tobacco-pipe on Wheels ... ... ... ... 175 VIII.— Bazaar, Siout 175 IX.— Tahta 186 X.— Ekhmim 193 Convent near Ekhmim... ... ... ... ... 197 XL— Girgeh 199 XII.— Abydus 203 Section of -Arch at Abydus ... ... ... ... 204 Ground-plan of an Egyptian Temple ... ... 205 Egyptian Sling 208 Anglo-Saxon Sling 208 An Egyptian Woman Wearing Jewellery ... ... 212 Ebony Comb 213 Blacksmith's Bellows ... ... ... ... ... 216 XIII. — Entrance to Bazaar, Keneh ... ... ... 228 Water-bottles made at Keneh ... ... ... 228 Portrait of Cleopatra, Dendera ... ... ... 243 Window in the Temple of Dendera ... ... ... 247 Water-spout, Dendera ... ... 248 Ancient Egyptian Tumbler ... 254 Pottery Raft 256 Sunset on the Nile ... ... ... ... ...

ILLUSTRATIONS. XIX PLATE. PAGE. Man Dressed in the Malayat 260 Ovens in the Plain of Thebes 280 XIV— The Rameseum, Thebes 284 Mummied Cat 292 Plan of the Harper's Chamber 303 Bench in Belzoni's Tomb ... ... ... ... 305 Basket of Figs 311 Embattlement at Medinet-Abou 313 Early Greek Capital at Medinet-Abou 314 XV.— Great Hall, Karnac 323 King Rehoboam ... ... ... ... ... 324 The Gebel-Ain 334 Pilaster of Quay, at Esne ... ... ... ... 341 Egyptian Dancing-girl ... ... ... ... 345 Dancers' Cymbals ... ... ... ... ... 346 XVI.— Temple at Edfou -..353 Shrine at Edfou 354 Ruins of Booayb ... ... ... ... ... 361 Exterior of Rock-temple, Silsilis 365 XVII. — Interior of Rock-temple, Silsilis ... 366 XVIIL— Temples at Silsilis 367 Strata of River-bank, Silsilis ... : 369 ANubianGirl 376 Nose-rings ... ... ... ... ... ... 378 Ear-rings 379 Tattooed Hands 380 Walking Staves 381 XIX.— Assouan 382 Group of Pottery ... ... 386 Crosses at Philæ *. 404 >m. Christian Arch at Philæ 404 XX.— The Island of Philæ 408 Nubian Dagger 415 Nubian Head-dress ... 416 Nubian Ear-ring and Nose-ring 418 The Deity of the Nile

Chapter I. The Voyage To Ale

XANDRIA. Southampton — one of the most agreeable of Eng land's seaports — is the locality selected by the Penin sular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company for the departure and return of the important fleet they own, and which connects us with our Indian possessions. As this is the quickest and most direct mode of reaching Egypt, we will conduct the traveller out this way ; leaving his return provided for in a way to be detailed at the close of this volume. The steamers to Alexandria leave Southampton on the 4th, 12th, 20th, and 27th of every month at one p.m. ; except when the above dates fall on a Sunday, in which case they leave at nine a.m. Passengers leaving Southampton on the above dates, arrive at Gibraltar in about five days; and, after staying there from six to twelve hours, proceed to Malta, arriving there in about nine days.

The B ordinary stay at the island is about six hours ; and the voyage to Alexandria is usually completed in about thirteen days from Southampton. The sollowing are the rates of passage-money : — Such persons as have an insuperable objection to the long sea voyage across the Bay of Biscay and by Gibraltar to Malta, can pass through France by rail way to Marseilles, and there meet the company's steamers for Malta and Alexandria, on the 5th, 12th, 20th, and 28th of the month, at seven a.m. Pas sengers must be at Marseilles the afternoon of the day previous to sailing. It must be remembered that when the 3rd, 10th, 18th, or 26th of the month falls on a Sunday, the Marseilles portion of the over land mails leaves London on the following day, and the steamers are despatched from Marseilles at seven a.m. on the 6th, 13th, 21st, and 29th of the month.

The rates of passage are as follows : — To 1st Class. L 2nd C[af s' and Passengers servants. Malta ..... £10 £5 Alexandria .... 20 10 To Children, 1st Class, 3 years an(j Single Passage. under 10 £13 £7 20 10 30 15 2nd Class, and Passengers' Servants. Gibraltar . . . . Malta Alexandria . . . . m 12 19 ine Chddren under ten years of age are charged half these rates. One child under three years of age, if with the parent, is free. Passengers booking and paying their passage money at Marseilles must pay the amount in the currency of the place (francs), at the company's advertised rates. This is understood to be for the sea passage only • and includes stewards' fees, table, wines, &c., for first-class passengers. Bedding, linen, and all requisite cabin furniture, are pro vided in the steamers at the company's expense, together with the attendance of experienced male and female servants.

A properly qualified surgeon is on board each vessel, whose services are also rendered gratuitously. The regulations concerning passengers are these: — Half the amount of passage-money, when the passage exceeds £20, is required to be paid on securing a passage, and the balance a fortnight before embarka tion. Passengers not embarking after engaging the passage, to forfeit the deposit of half the amount of passage-money. In case, however, of a passenger being unavoidably prevented from availing himself of a passage at the period for which it is taken, a transfer can be effected to a subsequent steamer, on sufficient notice being given, without forfeiture of any portion of the deposit paid, and accommodation wdl be allotted as similar as circumstances will permit. b2 First-class passengers are allowed 336 lbs. of per sonal baggage free of freight, and children (over three and under ten years of age) and servants, 168 lbs. each.

A passenger taking a whole cabin is entitled to take in the steamers, free of freight, 4| cwt. ; and a married couple, paying for reserved accommoda tion, are entitled to take 9 cwt. The charge for conveyance of extra baggage, should there be room in the vessel, is at the rate of 10s. per cwt. between Southampton, Gibraltar, Marseilles, Malta, or Alex andria. Baggage can occasionally be had up when absolutely necessary during the passage, by applica tion to the officer in charge. As no trunks or boxes are allowed in the saloon or cabins, but only small portmanteaus or carpet-bags, it is usual to set aside stated days on tbe voyage when the heavy baggage may be had up from the hold for the con venience of voyagers. Baggage may be insured for the entire journey on very moderate terms, the company having arranged for it with the Marine Life and Casualty Assurance Society, by which -the cost of insuring to any of the Mediterranean ports (in cluding stamps) is at the rate of 8s. for j650, and so on to £500, for which the cost is £3 17s. 6d. All baggage must be shipped not later than noon on the day previous to sailing, except carpet-bags or hat boxes.

Let us now imagine that all the necessary regulations have been complied with, and that our vessel emerges from the dock into Southampton Water. The beauty of that estuary need not be here insisted on • it is well known to all who visit the Isle of Wight, with the intention of landing at Ryde. We pass Calshot Castle, and turn into the Solent, making our way between the island and the Hampshire coast, ultimately passing " the Needle " rocks. As the sun went down on the evening of the 4th of December, 1859, when the author of this volume began the voyage it describes, the scene seemed a realisation of the old Phœnician mariners' tales of the British islands being occasionally shrouded in fogs, which gave them mystic security ; baffling the adventurer with a vapoury wall, which he only knew how to penetrate.

The day had been wet and cold ; the sun set in lurid light breaking through heavy clouds ; the receding coast of England appeared gradually to be absorbed in a dull fog • and we seemed to be flying from the thick veil which ultimately closed over it. As we got into the open sea, the sky cleared, the dark clouds gathered like a heavy curtain, which appeared as if slowly lifted from the horizon • and a bright blue sky studded with brilliant stars, a mild breeze, and calm waves, made our first night at sea pleasant. Shakespeare's duplication of "cabin'd," as "cribbed, confined," gives a true notion of the horrors of a sleeping-berth on board ship. The Peninsular boats are as comfortable as we suppose they can be • but nothing can make pleasant a cabin not larger than a servant's pantry, in which you are packed with three strangers, more or less agreeable, and " compelled " to be on the most intimate terms with, whether you like it or not.

In a stifling atmosphere, with a noise of machinery constantly in motion, and sick fedow lodgers, the vessel, like Macbeth, '* doth murder sleep." For those who can bear the sea, the day-life is pleasant enough, and nothing that can add to the passenger's comforts or enjoyment is unthought of in these excedent boats. It is one round of eating, drinking, and pleasant play — a veritable " Castle of Indolence," without Thomson's insubstantiality. A gay trumpet-call summons all to breakfast at nine, where tea and coffee is almost invisible among the mimerous dishes which cover the board. A luncheon at one, with wine and ale, interferes, for a short time, with the varied deck amusements. At five p.m. dinner is announced, by the trumpeter gaily playing " The Roast Beef of old England •" and at eight p.m. the cheerful old tune of "Polly, put the Kettle on" announces tea.

At nine wine and spirits are pro vided as " a night-cap • " and by half-past ten all lights are extinguished. Between the saloon meals others are provided for second-class passengers and children, whpse refreshment-hours are notified with the old tune to the nursery-rhyme of " Boys and Girls come out to play," — so that the ship resembled Chaucer's description of the rich yeoman's house, and seemed as if it " snowed meat and drink." After Ushant the Bay of Biscay is crossed, and water only meets the eye untd Cape St. Vincent relieves the monotony of the scene. The cape is a bold promontory, with cliffs of great height; the entire coast being wdd and precipitous. A square fort is on the edge of the table-land, and is said to have been budt by the Moors, as a "look out." Occasional peeps at the Spanish coast now occur until Gibraltar is reached.

It is impossible to exaggerate the grandeur and beauty of the bay of Gibraltar, or to speak with too much enthusiasm of the world-renowned rock. It had been stormy weather when we entered the bay, and the effects produced by partial mists and rain were sometimes very fine. The Spanish city of Algesiras was spanned by a rainbow of the brightest tints ; the sea of the lightest hues, pure blue fading into shades of green as it became shallower over the sands ; the mists aided sea, earth, and sky, in harmonious blendings, exactly like one of Turner's pictures when that painter was in his most poetic mood. Close to the landing-place is an excellent market. The town is curious from the crowded mixture of people of many nations, in costumes so various that it gave the scene somewhat the appear ance of a masquerade.

English, French, and Spanish soldiers and sailors • muleteers crowding the gates ; Turks, Greeks, Moors, and Africans, mixed in picturesque confusion. The constant occurrence of English names over shops, and the native names of streets with English translations painted below them, gave an odd effect to the whole. Mules everywhere with pack-saddles, or herds of goats led by boys. Houses piled in picturesque confusion, overtopped by old Moorish or modern fortifications ■ and, above all, the fantastic forms of the rocky pathways sloping up the mountain, covered in parts with vegetation more or less tropical, — the palm-tree, the more graceful cork-tree, and groves of lemon and orange trees, mixed into dense masses of verdure ; brilliant bunches of scarlet flowers lining the road, the product of the Aloe liliacœ ; scarlet geraniums growing wild like strong bushes, marigolds and jon quils, — combined to make the most beautiful variety of forms and colours.

Mounting the rock, the view obtained above Europa Point— embracing the entire bay, the coast of Spain, and the distant promontory of Ceuta, in Africa — is one of the most glorious panoramas the world can show. The zest with which the three hours' ramble may be enjoyed, while the steamer stays in this bay, is a repayment for the discomforts of that of Biscay. The voyage soon becomes tedious when Gibraltar is passed, and the coast of Andalusia fades from sight. Now and then a distant island or headland may be seen, such as the high coast of Barbary, or the Isle of Pantaleone. The evening of the third day brings the good ship to Malta, and it comes to an anchor in the quarantine harbour at Valetta. Six hours are generally allowed her for coaling and other necessities in the voyage ■ and as the vessel is usually anchored about six p.m., the passengers go ashore till midnight.

This allows two hours to visit the " sights " of Valetta, or to make purchases in the shops, and wind up at the opera, which commences at eight and is over by eleven. Brief as the time may seem, it is abundant for all this. Landing at the " Nix Mangiare " stairs — so called from the beggars that used to infest them, and declare in those words that they had " nothing to eat " — you see before you the " cursed streets of stairs " denounced by Byron, and that aid you in reaching transverse streets on various levels, or the most important " Strada Reale," at the summit of the b town. The streets are all picturesque, and exhibit Oriental taste in the latticed pavilions, or projecting covered balconies, which are built in front of each. Every house is of dazzling whiteness, and at night the effect is very vivid, as they stand in relief against the deep blue sky.

The shops are all good, and the fancy articles with which they abound singularly cheap — gloves and lace particularly so, the latter remarkable for its beauty of design. There is also a large trade carried on in the manufacture of the soft white stone, peculiar to the island, into vases and other ornamental articles, which generally attract from the elaboration of their workmanship and the moderation of their prices : they can be conve niently shipped in return boats, and at low rates. Those who prefer " sights " to " shopping," can compass the whole in a short while ; the Church of St. John and the Government House being close to each other, and are all that the town affords, except such as may be examined in strolling where fancy leads. The Church of St. John is well worth a visit • it is ornate to excess, a mass of decoration and colour : the floor, entirely covered with monuments to the memory of the Knights of Malta, with their coat-armour emblazoned in proper tints, is composed of slabs of coloured marbles.

The walls and ceiling are resplendent with gilding and ornament • the tombs of the Masters of the Grand Order are impos ing ; so is the altar with its abundantly rich fittings. There is a throne on one side for the archbishop, and another opposite for our gracious Lady, who is sovereign of the island. One of the gates of a side chapel is entirely wrought in massive silver, all denoting the wealth once owned by the knights as protectors of the pilgrims to the Holy Land. The palace, now the Government House, contains an armoury, but with very few old or interesting suits : the portions of armour taken from the commander of the Turkish forces during the famous siege • the relics of the heroic Lavalette, and the armour of Vignancourt — the same as Caravaggio painted him wearing ; the bull of the Pope granting the island to the brotherhood ; are all historic mementoes of the past glories of this place well worthy attention.